Reddit reviews Silverstone 21-Inch x 15-Inch 4mm Thick 2-Piece Sound Dampening Acoustic EP0M Silent Foam SF01 (Black)
We found 38 Reddit comments about Silverstone 21-Inch x 15-Inch 4mm Thick 2-Piece Sound Dampening Acoustic EP0M Silent Foam SF01 (Black). Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
Great quality EPOM foam material for noise absorptionExcellent adhesion in high temperatureEasy to cut and fit in any computer chassisPackage includes two foam pads530mm x 380mm x 4mm (thick)
Software: easy. Put the hard drives to sleep after X minutes, reduce the case and cpu fans speed.
Hardware: also easy but costs money.
I did all of the above in my PC but in 7) I simply bought headphones with an integrated potentiometer.
Sound tests (no lube used, stock sliders), and purchasing links:
No Silencing Rings, No Foam
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fEROEA-Bdxw
With Silencing Rings, No Foam
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CssQsHHXpDY
With Silencing Rings and Foam
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bWGNEJj9dQE
Cyan Topre Keycaps
https://kbdfans.myshopify.com/products/electrostatic-capacitive-pbt-keycaps
Topre Silencing Rings
https://kbdfans.myshopify.com/products/topre-keyboard-silence-x-120pcs
Sound Dampening Foam, got the idea from /u/sodiumjoe
https://i.imgur.com/WnmBFTM.jpg
https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-21-Inch-Dampening-Acoustic-SF01/dp/B0040JHMH6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1505596942&sr=8-1
https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/6xwbqg/even_quieter_silenced_fc660c_modification/
That OP post is over excessive use of those foam and they are not meant for PC.
The proper sound dampening are to reduce noise from the panel which creates from vibration of hardwares. The side panel in fact is one of the component emit the most noise like a speaker.
This is what I use: http://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-21-Inch-Dampening-Acoustic-SF01/dp/B0040JHMH6
Here an example: http://i.ytimg.com/vi/c9U_x8hRwU4/maxresdefault.jpg
"Build log" (mostly pictures) is in the imgur album.
This started off as a stock WASD V2 with Cherry MX Clear switches. I bought a 55g uniform RealForce not long after, and that has been my daily driver pretty much ever since. I actually thought I might just sell the WASD for whatever I could get for it.
I decided instead to go for the ergo clear mod, which sounds absolutely fantastic on the videos I've seen here, here, and others on YouTube. I also decided that while I had the case all apart I would add dampening foam to it and paint it to go with the SA carbon I just received.
Paint and clear coat for the case were from the local hardware store. I found the dampening foam on Amazon. I also picked up a Hakko tip cleaner and Engineer solder sucker from Amazon. The 62g gold springs and lubes are from Mehkee. They were out of their kits, but the lubes that are in the kit are all sold separately on their site, so no problemo.
The whole thing took about a week, give or take, and it was very tedious, to say the least. But the outcome has been simply spectacular. The ergo clears are so buttery smooth, and they sound awesome with SA doubleshot caps. I think the case color came out great. The WASD is now feeling a whole lot more premium!
Edit: this video was super helpful for the case painting.
Edit: here is the “before” post - https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/76s7rx/is_it_worth_it_to_do_the_ergo_clear_mod_on_a_wasd/?st=JFBLDQYL&sh=a9f5b0f2
Put this in the case. It'll help dampen by a lot.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040JHMH6/ref=crt_ewc_img_huc_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
heard good things about it
Lots of folks do this - no danger so long as you’re using an appropriate material. I’ve written at length on this in the past, but he short answer is that it becomes truly helpful in two conditions:
1 - the material is sufficiently designed to absorb sound.
2 - the material is thick enough to make contact with the PCB, allowing a direct transfer of acoustics.
I have personally always used Dynamat, and it does an amazing job. It’s thick enough to touch your PCB, but thin and compressive enough that it won’t damage any components. Another more cost-effective solution is using SilverStone silencing foam. I haven’t personally used it, but I have personally typed on boards using it, and it’s still pretty good, for half the price.
Lots of people use budget options as well, like shelf liner and things like that. All of them are better than nothing, but if you’re not using the correct material, you’re really not doing a whole lot to truly absorb sound and migrate the issue. I’ve touched plenty of boards that have only gone halfway with silencing, and the difference to me is super apparent.
Sound Review:
First let me say that the best way to describe them is to say they are nothing like my HD650s. Really if the HD650s are dead north, these are dead south. They have pronounced mids and highs, small bass, but they are exceptionally clear. You hear details that simply did not exist before. They take quite a bit of power to drive (the OTL wouldn't drive them properly). Anyone should be able to build these for less than $200. I would say that at that price point these are a great value. I dont know that these will be my go to headphone, but they are definitely different than anything I have ever used before.
EDIT: Do not use self adhesive felt on the drivers, get non adhesive stiff back from Michael's or similar. This will give you nice strong bass, with excellent extension. These bad boys sound amazing now. Now if I could just get the pads to stay on better...
Information:
Original thread.
Stuff to buy:
Fostex T50RP
Sticky Stiff Felt
Modeling Clay
Shure Replacement Pads
Double Sided Scrapbook Tape
Silverstone Audio Block
Mostly I spent a lot of time on experimenting with the drivers and cups, I settled with some kind of home-made "DYI" Lawton mod, like this.
It tightened up the sound of X00 so much, bass and mids are separate things suddenly, every detail stands out much more now, very enjoyable and worth doing imo. Next up was a combination of attenuation rings under the pads and rotation the original foam around the drivers. I've tried many more things than that, but I settled on those since in this case, "less is more" and new wooden cups + foam on the drivers really makes these shine. The rest is just to correct the tonality. If someone wants a darker sound, they can place a thin piece of felt directly over the speakers, tho I prefer it without it :) (felt over the driver also tames the sibilance but makes the sound less airy which I dislike)
EDIT: In case you're wondering, I used this foam for the driver mod. Amazon link here
SilverStone 21-Inch x 15-Inch 4mm Thick 2-Piece Sound Dampening Acoustic EP0M Silent Foam SF01 (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0040JHMH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_iLySKYiAMxu2s
some sort of electronics sound dampening foam like this should be good.
If you are making closed grills yourself, the easiest way would probably to buy a duplicate pair of grills and line them on the inside with dynamat or silverstone [acoustic foam] (http://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-21-Inch-Dampening-Acoustic-SF01/dp/B0040JHMH6) or some similar material. Sure you will reduce sound leakage, and while this is tempting to try out, IMO I think this type of mod will kill the signature HD650 sound.
If you wanted to get more creative, try searching for "HD 650 woodies". The only commercial outlet I know for getting closed wooden hd 650 grills was [headphile] (http://www.headphile.com/page4.html), but I have no idea if they are still in business or not. I can tell you that some of the woody mods looked [ridiculous] (http://cdn-ak.f.st-hatena.com/images/fotolife/w/web123/20090930/20090930235259.jpg).
The bigger question is, why do you want to do this? IMO the open architecture is one of the highlights of the 650. I think that the listening experience is so enriched by the open design that a closed sound would be against everything that the 650 designer so skillfully built into the design, i.e. you will be building an abomination :-)
Uh...I suppose you could... here's what a high cap looks like inside. You'd have to remove sections of the mag but leave that part that clips into the magwell...and leave the bottom exposed so you can wind it (or if you have a flash mag feed a string through I suppose). Basically you're replacing the hard walls the BB hit into with cloth. You could line the edge of the feeding tube so they only hit metal or plastic at the bottom where they feed into the wheel. You could totally massively increase the capacity this way! It'd probably look like a giant ballsack hanging from your gun though. Hmmmm that gives me an idea....
I guess a more practical solution would be line the inside of the mag with cloth or thin sheets of acoustic foam (this is what I use to fill crevices in guns to dampen noise and reduce plasticreak) but I have a feeling that the BBs would have feeding issue and the capacity would reduced.
Honestly, I've completely switched to mid caps - 5x110 BBs is more than enough for 99% of matches. No rattling, consistent feeding, no winding, work in any orientation, and no tell tale WHIIRRRRR when you run out of ammo. Folks at my field listen for that to know when to pop out and open up because they know they are likely to catch someone with their pants down - some folks carry one and pull the spring release to cause a whirr to trick others to pop out lol.
Between the PCB and the bottom of the case some people use SilverStone 4mm Silent Foam SF01 - $17.99
Dynamat - $13.99 is another popular case-dampening material.
A couple less expensive options that also work well:
Neoprene foam rubber with adhesive backing - $1.11 per foot + $2.80 shipping. Sold in 2" wide strips, so 4-5 feet is probably plenty for most keyboards.
Adhesive-backed neoprene rubber pads - $1.99 + $3.95 shipping. Two sets might be necessary for larger keyboards.
It's some sort of sound dampening foam I found on Amazon. It also works really well for cases and the back of mounting plates (between the plate and the pcb).
easy fix
Decided to build a 60% with cherry silent reds, o-rings and some acoustic foam at the bottom because I have the same problem
When I assemble my keyboards I put sound dampening material between the plate and the pcb. This is perfect
Yep, that rear venting - [under the black felt square in this picture] (http://cdn.innerfidelity.com/images/Fostex_T50RPMk3_photo_CompareCapsuleInside.jpg), from an inside perspective - plays a large role in T50RP bass response.
Tape's the easiest, most-reversible way. You might do permanent sealing at some point, but for the moment, temporary and functional is good for experimenting.
You get acoustic foam [by buying it] (http://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-21-Inch-Dampening-Acoustic-SF01/dp/B0040JHMH6), typically, though I'm not one to intrude in another man's affairs :P
No worries, I'm here to help - I remember being new, and I'd like to help new folks along.
Either Filco or Leopold do this with their stock boards. You cut out a piece of material, like shelf liner/pc case soundproofing/sorbothane, and line the inside of the case with it. It reduces the resonance that metal cases accentuate when bottoming out. Leads to a deeper and more solid sound. Im going to try this, I've never seen anyone use it here so we'll so how it works out.
I bought this, should be here Friday. I'm putting it in my KUL, will update if it resolves the horrendous ping.
this stuff has worked for me
Here!
You would have to cut it down a bit and be careful how thick it would be around the battery.
I have never heard of IsolateIt though I would rather go with SilverStone since people use it commonly for sound dampening in keyboards - https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-21-Inch-Dampening-Acoustic-SF01/dp/B0040JHMH6/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1504654931&sr=8-7&keywords=sound+dampening+foam
Thanks. I prefer the BT with the Type-S sliders & rings. I'll definitely be adding a vibration mat to the bottom of it as well, just haven't ordered it yet. I'll probably add some sound dampening foam to the internal case of both HHKBs. I prefer the nice dampened thock sound from a more silenced board and the HHKB BT has a more hefty body than the standard Professional 2 models which is nice as well.
I actually harvested the Type-S sliders & rings from an old Pro 2 Type-S that I have since sold with normal Topre sliders with kbdfans silence-x rings.
I've also owned a stock Pro 2, a HHKB Professional JP with kbdfans silence-x and Hasu BT Controller and probably one or two more off the top of my head.
The MX board is an interesting departure for me as before I discovered Topre I was using Tactile MX switches (started with Cherry Browns, then Gateron Browns, then Zealios 67g). I kept hearing great things from primarily topre users that were finding Cherry MX Silent Blacks or Silent Reds appealing if they were to use MX switches. I decided to give it a try and do not see myself going back to an MX tactile switch, linear is the way to go for MX, for me anyway.
Get some foam on that back panel, that's the only thing that doesn't seem to fit with the bright white...
http://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-21-Inch-Dampening-Acoustic-SF01/dp/B0040JHMH6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1345135728&sr=8-1&keywords=silverstone+foam
Excellent otherwise, A++
Yeah I gotchu. On my TKC1800 builds, I used this so I didn't have to mess with it.
This is what I've used in my boards (mostly because I had them lying around unused) - https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-21-Inch-Dampening-Acoustic-SF01/dp/B0040JHMH6
It's the Silverstone SF01. It did make a difference, I wouldn't say it's more quiet. Rather it feels more solid to type on and gives the keyboard more density.
Any1 use this Silverstone foam for case noise dampening? If so how is it?
The third point was in reference to this basically.
If you got the money I'd say go for it (Noctura and Scythe make some really solid 20dB or lower CPU coolers) , but if you like the cooler and don't want to install a new heat sink maybe try some acoustic sound dampening foam for your PC to see if that brings the sound to a manageable level.
I'm using an old NZXT Source 210 and modded the side panel and rear with some Silverstone Sound Dampening material/foam. You can cut it to the shape you need, and it has an adhesive on the back that stuck pretty well to my case. Overall, it definitely helped dampen the high frequency noise coming from my case. You might be able to find cheaper alternatives though. The foam is a bit thin, about 1/4" or so, but it made a noticeable difference.
I could upload & post some pictures later today if you like.
Hi, sorry I don't have a picture for you and I'm out of the country at the moment and can't take the laptop apart. But it's very simple - I just took a piece of double sided tape and taped 1 side of the foam to the back plate and closed it back up. I'm sure you can substitute the material as well. What I noticed is that having the 9 cell battery is that the foam will be against the battery, which might get hot, so you might want to keep that in mind if you use another material. However if you have the smaller battery, then I believe it's just an empty space where the HDD would go.
Edit: So this is what the foam stuff is, it makes complete sense https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-21-Inch-Dampening-Acoustic-SF01/dp/B0040JHMH6/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1496798617&sr=8-4-fkmr2&keywords=laptop+noise+dampening+material
sorry for the late reply, i forgot about it and got busy. my hard drive is sitting at 32C right now. [here is what it looks like] (http://imgur.com/69B9Vex). and i used [this] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0040JHMH6/ref=sr_rp_1?m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&ie=UTF8&qid=1457685124&sr=sr-1&keywords=sound+dampening)
The outer black material is SilverStone Sound Dampening Acoustic Foam and the small inner circle is self-adhesive felt from a craft store like Michael's or Hobby Lobby (specifically Creatology branded).
4" PVC pipe filled with foam (either yellow sponges or foam used to make chair pads), blank CD attached to one end using silicone sealant, two layers of SilverStone foam on the CD, one layer of felt on the SilverStone foam, small slit cut in the middle and push tip of the mic through. I mounted the whole thing in a small box filled with foam and reinforced with duct tape for rigidity, but mainly just used as a stand.
Here's what I used.
Silverstone PS07B? Im sure Silverstone has more quiet ITX cases but their naming system is weird so I never remember the. Keep in mind you can always buy your own sound dampening foam and add it.
something like this should do the trick. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0040JHMH6/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687642&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00MAQNAPY&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=GNR74PB5NPXKWC9325TZ
Alternate ultimate air cooler for Define R4 above:
Alternative to above with easy to use Liquid Cooler and sleek compact case.
Same other than these differences:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor | $225.98 @ SuperBiiz
CPU Cooler | NZXT Kraken X61 106.1 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $122.99 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | MSI Z97-G55 SLI ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $117.98 @ SuperBiiz
Memory | Avexir Core series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $79.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $109.97 @ SuperBiiz
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $54.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB Video Card | $349.98 @ NCIX US
Case | NZXT S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | $69.98 @ Amazon
Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $94.99 @ Amazon
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) | $99.98 @ OutletPC
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $1326.83