Reddit reviews SIQUK 16 Pieces Heated Bed Springs OD 0.31 Length 0.78 Die Springs Light Load Compression Spring for 3D Printer Creality CR-10 10S S4 Ender 3 Heatbed Springs Bottom Connect Leveling
We found 4 Reddit comments about SIQUK 16 Pieces Heated Bed Springs OD 0.31 Length 0.78 Die Springs Light Load Compression Spring for 3D Printer Creality CR-10 10S S4 Ender 3 Heatbed Springs Bottom Connect Leveling. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
Compatibility: compatible with most 3D Printer Bed, great for Creality CR-10 10S S4 Ender 3 Heatbed Springs Bottom Connect LevelingAdvantage: the die springs are stiffer than ordinary spring, which help your 3D printer much more stable while printingSize: hole diameter (OD): 0.31"/ 8mm; rod diameter (ID): 0.16"/ 4mm; length: 0.78"/ 20mmNote:there are many small parts in the package, for safety, please keep them away from childrenAdditional instruction: generally speaking, there are yellow, blue, red, green, brown springs sorted by different load, SIQUK die spring is the YELLOW one, which is the lightest load one; the heatbed springs are well suited for high stress applications, but also suitable for various of other applications
Buy better springs like these: https://www.amazon.com/SIQUK-Springs-Compression-Creality-Leveling/dp/B07K9PBML5
The stock springs are garbage and don't hold anything in place. A slight bump will knock it out of level.
Buy these and swap em in.
Less bed wobble, less leveling in the long term.
Those couplers are trash and so is the PTFE tube they sent. They may work for a while but you'll want to swap them sooner rather than later. Here's a list of upgrades you'll probably want to do. You'll also want to look up a tutorial on how to upgrade your firmware so you can activate safety features (thermal runaway protection specifically). This also doesn't include a BLTouch or EZABL (auto bed levelers) as I have yet to make a choice personally.
Couplers and Tube:
SIQUK 3 Pieces Teflon Tube PTFE... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FPJHRTQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Metal Extruder: ( original plastic one will wear out or break)
Ender 3 Creality 3D Upgrade... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KSS8FRQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Bed Springs: (more than needed but oh well)
SIQUK 16 Pieces Heated Bed... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K9PBML5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Glass Bed: (goes on top of print bed which is usually warped, printing on an uneven surface not so bueno)
Creality Upgraded 3D Printer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DS2LZF1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Raspberry Pi 3B+ for OctoPrint: (still need microsd card for it I believe)
CanaKit Raspberry Pi 3 B+ (B... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BC6WH7V?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Stepper Motor Dampers: (silences the motors, no more sounding like dial up internet lol will need to print mounts from thingiverse)
Upgraded NEMA 17 Stepper Steel... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DNT72SF?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Heat Sinks For Stepper Motors: (once stepper motors have dampers and aren't attached to the metal frame, they can get a little hot)
40mmx40mmx10mm Black Radiator... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KWVGGGK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Hot end silicone sleeve: (may not need, mine came with one instead of the old insulation)
Creality Original 3D Printer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HNXJ39T?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Extra Filament: (ender 3 only comes with a small sample "spool", this is just a brand I use and have had decent results with. The metallic silver hue shows off detail well)
3D Printer PLA Filament 1.75MM... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ME7YUIU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Did you assemble using the instructions that came with the printer? Because then chances are most things need to be tweaked. I suggest looking through this build video and checking if everything is in order. I mean, maybe you instinctively put it all together right, but more likely is that some things aren't squared right, the frame is poorly produced(hence the low price of the printer), so it needs actual effort to get it all built right.
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The first thing you should do when you are done with all building is calibrate your extruder motor. This basically means making sure that when you tell the printer to move your filament 100mm, it also moves it 100mm. Most likely it isn't calibrated right, I don't think I ever heard of an Ender 3 that came with a proper calibrated extruder right out of the box. You also do need to do the flow calibration in that same link, and for that you will need digital calipers.
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As for the nozzle, no, you don't need to clean it out before every print. You only need to actively clean it out if you change to a different colour or different type of filament, and you just do that by running the new filament through until the colour is stable, then the new filament has purged the old.
The small "tool" is actually an acupuncture needle :D When that gets lost/bent/worn, don't fall into the hoax of buying "real 3D printer cleaner tools", just buy a pack of 0.35 or 0.4 acupuncture needles. The function of it is if you get a clot that clogs up your nozzle, if it isn't a bad clog, you can just puncture it with the acupuncture needle and run some filament through by hand to clear the nozzle.
Isopropyl is great for some bed surfaces, not so much for others. The Creality glass bed or a PEI sheet both benefit vastly from isopropyl, but the stock Ender 3 bed with the rough feeling surface doesn't need that much cleaning(it also doesn't last long, consider what you want your next bed to be).
Stuff like regular window or frame glass needs an adhesive like hairspray or glue stick, so wiping those with isopropyl before every print would be outright wrong as that actively removes adhesive.
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If you're not gonna do anything else for now, go through this checklist:
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Consider getting stronger bed springs as the stock ones are beyond terrible. And when your printer prints right, print an LCD back cover and fan guard - those two are essential to printer health