Reddit Reddit reviews SMAKNÂ 1-8S Battery Checker and Low Voltage Buzzer Alarm Plus BlueMart Cable Tie

We found 6 Reddit comments about SMAKNÂ 1-8S Battery Checker and Low Voltage Buzzer Alarm Plus BlueMart Cable Tie. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Toys & Games
Hobbies
Hobby Remote & App Controlled Vehicle Parts
RC Battery Chargers
Hobby Remote & App Controlled Vehicles & Parts
SMAKNÂ 1-8S Battery Checker and Low Voltage Buzzer Alarm Plus BlueMart Cable Tie
Easy to use - works with any 1-8S Lipo/Li-Ion/LiMn/Li-FeJust plug into the balance plug and the LED will cycle through the individual cell voltages as wellYou can set the alarm from 2.7 to 3.8V per cell or you can turn the alarm offSuper loud alarm soundDimension: 1.5"(L) x 0.4"(H) x 1"(W)
Check price on Amazon

6 Reddit comments about SMAKNÂ 1-8S Battery Checker and Low Voltage Buzzer Alarm Plus BlueMart Cable Tie:

u/edgan · 8 pointsr/Quadcopter

I got an Eachine 250 racer about a month ago. It has been a lot of fun, but there are a lot of details. My next racer will probably be a smaller/lighter 180 frame.

For FPV goggles I have three ideas. One, is get the status quo Fatshark goggles at whatever level you can afford. Two, get the HeadPlay HD goggles I got. Three, get the Avegant Glyph, which has the really nice feature of letting you pop them up and down without a band. I do really like my HeadPlay HDs, but they are big and bulky. I haven't perfected how to adjust the straps to get them to stay on my head well.

Arms, managed to break one without breaking a prop.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B016Y5U1JO/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Capacitors, they pop off very easily. I lost a capacitor at the same time I broke an arm. Or a hot glue gun, I Highly recommend putting hot glue over the caps next to each arm to help avoid the loss in the first place. You want a low temperature hot glue gun to not melt any plastic or traces. I consider the capacitor issue a design defect, but you can work around it with hot glue. The original revision seems to have lacked the capacitors, from pictures I have seen online.

Capacitors for Eachine 250 racer:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00W8YYMZA/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Youtube video exampling how to solder them:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sLYVZUpL0K0

Get a Taranis X9D Plus. It is a great transmitter. Also get a X4R-SB receiver, and use SBUS. The D4R won't let you control the lights too, because it can't do PPM and PWM at the same time. You can control them with the X4R-SB, SBUS+PWM. SBUS has great latency, 5-10ms. I was recently talking to a sponsored racer who told me that PPM, which is supposed to be 27ms with the D4R, is really more like 100ms. It averages the four last frames together. This link includes a case and X8R, which I think will work as well as the X4R, but you should do the research. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014IYSXL6/ref=mp_s_a_1_5

To do SBUS+PWM, requires a special bind procedure. You want channels 1-8 as SBUS, and 9+ as PWM. The most relevant part is "jump S1&S3: SBUS, 9, 10, 11 or jump S2&S3: SBUS, 9, 10, 11 (No telemetry)" Here is a link that talks about it.

http://www.frsky-rc.com/BBS/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=6793

Small tie wraps like the ones already on the arms to hold the ESCs. You break an arm, and you will need to replace the tie wrap.

Soldering iron, solder, etc, because you have to desolder the ESC from the motor to replace an arm, and then resolder it.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BRC2XU/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Qtips and rubbing alcohol for cleaning. Mix the alcohol 50/50 with water. The flying field was muddy after lots of rain.

Carrying case of some kind. You don't want it banged around in transport, and same with the transmitter. It is best to get the X9D with the case, because people price gouge on the case stand alone.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ABQS7YI/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Batteries, you can burn through them very fast. But watch out for their height. I bought some of the new "Graphene" 4S batteries, and they are really too tall to fit. Some people remove the back LEDs to make battery installation easier.

Battery charging/carrying bags to help with uncontrolled fires started by batteries. I have two, one for charging, and one for carrying.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005HTH78W/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A battery charger if you want to use 4S batteries. The included charger is 2S/3S only. I have a Hi-tech X1 which will only charge one battery at a time. You can also get the X4 which will do four at once.

Battery charger for 4S batteries:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005LH3392/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

XT60 banana plug cable for charging with the above charger:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XBSBYCG/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A V shaped antenna mount to get the receiver antennas up in the air. When over head the carbon fiber body blocks the signal well.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WV04P62/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A voltage monitor so you know to land when your battery voltage is low. The video signal includes the battery voltage as part of the OSD, but I prefer LoS while learning to fly. It lets me keep an eye on where I am in relation to trees. On the other hand I have yet to find a good place to mount a voltage monitor. With the length of the balance cable on batteries you are likely going to need a balance cable extension for 3S and another for 4S.

Voltage monitor:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EXPPF80/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

3S balance cable extension:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XP4IO88/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

4S balance cable extension:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JBP1RGG/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Double sided tape to mount things on the top of the body, like the antenna mount and receiver.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009NP1JQC/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Small x-acto knife to help remove the double sided tape.

Electrical tape to tape down wires for lights and receiver.

Size 2.0 hex wrench for the frame screws. It will be needed to replace arms.

Scale that can measure grams. You want to knowing and control weight.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010HKEDPK/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sunglasses to avoid problems seeing on sunny days. Lets say you are flying LoS, and look into the direction of the sun. You can't see the quad well enough to control it, because of glare from the sun.

ESC flashing adapters to change/upgrade the firmware. I am not sure these are the right ones for the ESCs on the Eachine. I think they are, but I haven't tried it yet.

Atmel socket flashing tool:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00V2W467I/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Atmel USB programmer:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0051SRZWC/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB cable to use with transmitters and simulators. It is best to learn the basics in a sim, instead of replacing lots of parts.

USB cable for simulators:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DFDTU9G/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Old post of mine on learning in a simulator:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Multicopter/comments/3zr8o0/cheap_fpv_acro_simulator_with_real_transmitters/

Be sure to set a fail-safe, which is very easy with the Taranis. I had a fly away with my first Eachine, because of a defective Spektrum DX6 and lack of fail-safe. After that I switched to the Taranis, which doesn't cost much more and has way more capacity.

u/MaxeMouse · 2 pointsr/rccars

If you have the brushless model, the Dynamite Taser ESC has a LVA onboard. It will cut the power when the lipo reaches a user defined threshold. Also when a Lipo is getting CLOSE to 50% used (and I've noticed this in my Ruckus) There is a VERY noticable drop in launching power. Regardless, this is the standard for LIPO alarms. If it looks like this, its the same thing, brand isnt important. and they are retarded-ly loud.

u/rubiksman · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

Just grab something like this. Should work for up to a 6s lipo, and you can switch it onto whichever battery you are flying.

it also shows the total voltage, as well as each individual cell voltage.

Its alarm usually goes off at 3.5v/3.3v per cell, so it works well for flying LOS or close to medium range FPV

u/mrpnut123 · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

I think I left it set at the default voltage.

I put a voltage alarm on most of my larger aircraft. Like this: http://www.amazon.com/BlueMart-Battery-Checker-Voltage-Buzzer/dp/B00EXPPF80/

I like this style because you can set the alarm voltage they are cheap. all you do is hang it off of the balance cable on your battery. They are also EXTREMELY loud. You can hear it from a pretty good distance.

u/puppymallet · 1 pointr/Quadcopter

You're going to need this power cord for the imax b6 charger, for whatever reason they don't sell the power cord with the charger. http://amzn.com/B009VDPNXQ

You should also get this battery for your transmitter http://amzn.com/B00JERJZSS

Definitely invest in a voltage checker, this thing is invaluable in the field, if you discharge your batteries beyond a certain point they go bad, I've had two die on me so far because I let the voltage get too low. http://amzn.com/B00EXPPF80

You need some kind of power distribution board, to distribute power from your battery to the rest of the craft, something like this http://amzn.com/B00GQOZZUY

You will need these servo wires to connect your receiver to the kk2 http://amzn.com/B00P6JJFIS

These nylon standoffs will be really handy when you mount your flight controller and PDB (power distribution board) to the frame http://amzn.com/B00LGB2N1Q

Random stuff from the hardware store: Liquid tape, electric tape, big zip ties, little zip ties, velcro

That's probably not everything but you will be flying a lot sooner with all of this stuff

u/zobbyblob · 1 pointr/Multicopter

To use the telemetry you need the proper Frsky receiver and transmitter module. Then it looks like you plug the telemetry module into the buddy box port on the radio. There are some good videos of how to set up the telemetry that go through everything you need.

I use the 9xr with the frsky transmitter or the Immersion Rc long range module and have never felt a need for telemetry. The radio already has a stopwatch and timer on it, the long black receiver with 2 antennas has RSSI built in (on low signal it beeps the radio) and to monitor voltage I use a lipo alarm that also displays voltage. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EXPPF80/ref=pd_aw_sbs_7?pi=SL500_SY115&simLd=1

It beeps loud enough to be heard anywhere within LOS. I have also never lost control signal of a multirotor when flying LOS. Although, the module is pretty cool and takes care of all those issues in a small package.