Reddit Reddit reviews Spirit Digital Kitchen Scale Accuracy Pocket Food Scale Pronto Digital Multifunction Cooking Scale 0.01oz/0.1g 3000g with Back-Lit LCD Display (Silver)

We found 11 Reddit comments about Spirit Digital Kitchen Scale Accuracy Pocket Food Scale Pronto Digital Multifunction Cooking Scale 0.01oz/0.1g 3000g with Back-Lit LCD Display (Silver). Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Kitchen & Dining
Kitchen Utensils & Gadgets
Measuring Tools & Scales
Kitchen Scales
Home & Kitchen
Digital Kitchen Scales
Spirit Digital Kitchen Scale Accuracy Pocket Food Scale Pronto Digital Multifunction Cooking Scale 0.01oz/0.1g 3000g with Back-Lit LCD Display (Silver)
Features -Digital scale is very accurate, fast, strong and user-friendly works great as a Digital kitchen scale, Digtal food scale, Coffee scale, Jewelry Scale, Postal scale,Medicine scale & Lab scale.Functions - This scales digital weight grams pro pocket scales can double up as the kitchen scale,fast and easy taring and calibration. Includes piece counting function for faster quantity measurement .Design -The Cooking Scale have a clear LCD screen lit by a bright blue backlight, display readings in g, oz, ozt, dwt, gn and ct(Digital Scale Platform: 3.94 X 3.94 inches Product dimension: 4.13 X 4.96 X 0.63 inches)Precision - Jewelry Scale is manufactured with high precision sensors to provide the most accurate weight readings and higher accuracy: 0.1g/0.01ozIncludes - This food scale have 2 AAA batteries and 2 plastic trays, 100% satisfaction guaranteed.
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11 Reddit comments about Spirit Digital Kitchen Scale Accuracy Pocket Food Scale Pronto Digital Multifunction Cooking Scale 0.01oz/0.1g 3000g with Back-Lit LCD Display (Silver):

u/ShinyTile · 53 pointsr/Coffee

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Get some beans, and you'll have better coffee than 95% of campus.

If you want to move to a Chemex instead of the aeropress, you totally could, but remembering dorm life, I'd absolutely pick an Aeropress.

u/edgan · 8 pointsr/Quadcopter

I got an Eachine 250 racer about a month ago. It has been a lot of fun, but there are a lot of details. My next racer will probably be a smaller/lighter 180 frame.

For FPV goggles I have three ideas. One, is get the status quo Fatshark goggles at whatever level you can afford. Two, get the HeadPlay HD goggles I got. Three, get the Avegant Glyph, which has the really nice feature of letting you pop them up and down without a band. I do really like my HeadPlay HDs, but they are big and bulky. I haven't perfected how to adjust the straps to get them to stay on my head well.

Arms, managed to break one without breaking a prop.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B016Y5U1JO/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Capacitors, they pop off very easily. I lost a capacitor at the same time I broke an arm. Or a hot glue gun, I Highly recommend putting hot glue over the caps next to each arm to help avoid the loss in the first place. You want a low temperature hot glue gun to not melt any plastic or traces. I consider the capacitor issue a design defect, but you can work around it with hot glue. The original revision seems to have lacked the capacitors, from pictures I have seen online.

Capacitors for Eachine 250 racer:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00W8YYMZA/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Youtube video exampling how to solder them:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sLYVZUpL0K0

Get a Taranis X9D Plus. It is a great transmitter. Also get a X4R-SB receiver, and use SBUS. The D4R won't let you control the lights too, because it can't do PPM and PWM at the same time. You can control them with the X4R-SB, SBUS+PWM. SBUS has great latency, 5-10ms. I was recently talking to a sponsored racer who told me that PPM, which is supposed to be 27ms with the D4R, is really more like 100ms. It averages the four last frames together. This link includes a case and X8R, which I think will work as well as the X4R, but you should do the research. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014IYSXL6/ref=mp_s_a_1_5

To do SBUS+PWM, requires a special bind procedure. You want channels 1-8 as SBUS, and 9+ as PWM. The most relevant part is "jump S1&S3: SBUS, 9, 10, 11 or jump S2&S3: SBUS, 9, 10, 11 (No telemetry)" Here is a link that talks about it.

http://www.frsky-rc.com/BBS/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=6793

Small tie wraps like the ones already on the arms to hold the ESCs. You break an arm, and you will need to replace the tie wrap.

Soldering iron, solder, etc, because you have to desolder the ESC from the motor to replace an arm, and then resolder it.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BRC2XU/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Qtips and rubbing alcohol for cleaning. Mix the alcohol 50/50 with water. The flying field was muddy after lots of rain.

Carrying case of some kind. You don't want it banged around in transport, and same with the transmitter. It is best to get the X9D with the case, because people price gouge on the case stand alone.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ABQS7YI/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Batteries, you can burn through them very fast. But watch out for their height. I bought some of the new "Graphene" 4S batteries, and they are really too tall to fit. Some people remove the back LEDs to make battery installation easier.

Battery charging/carrying bags to help with uncontrolled fires started by batteries. I have two, one for charging, and one for carrying.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005HTH78W/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A battery charger if you want to use 4S batteries. The included charger is 2S/3S only. I have a Hi-tech X1 which will only charge one battery at a time. You can also get the X4 which will do four at once.

Battery charger for 4S batteries:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005LH3392/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

XT60 banana plug cable for charging with the above charger:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XBSBYCG/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A V shaped antenna mount to get the receiver antennas up in the air. When over head the carbon fiber body blocks the signal well.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WV04P62/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A voltage monitor so you know to land when your battery voltage is low. The video signal includes the battery voltage as part of the OSD, but I prefer LoS while learning to fly. It lets me keep an eye on where I am in relation to trees. On the other hand I have yet to find a good place to mount a voltage monitor. With the length of the balance cable on batteries you are likely going to need a balance cable extension for 3S and another for 4S.

Voltage monitor:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EXPPF80/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

3S balance cable extension:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XP4IO88/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

4S balance cable extension:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JBP1RGG/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Double sided tape to mount things on the top of the body, like the antenna mount and receiver.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009NP1JQC/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Small x-acto knife to help remove the double sided tape.

Electrical tape to tape down wires for lights and receiver.

Size 2.0 hex wrench for the frame screws. It will be needed to replace arms.

Scale that can measure grams. You want to knowing and control weight.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010HKEDPK/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sunglasses to avoid problems seeing on sunny days. Lets say you are flying LoS, and look into the direction of the sun. You can't see the quad well enough to control it, because of glare from the sun.

ESC flashing adapters to change/upgrade the firmware. I am not sure these are the right ones for the ESCs on the Eachine. I think they are, but I haven't tried it yet.

Atmel socket flashing tool:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00V2W467I/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Atmel USB programmer:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0051SRZWC/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB cable to use with transmitters and simulators. It is best to learn the basics in a sim, instead of replacing lots of parts.

USB cable for simulators:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DFDTU9G/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Old post of mine on learning in a simulator:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Multicopter/comments/3zr8o0/cheap_fpv_acro_simulator_with_real_transmitters/

Be sure to set a fail-safe, which is very easy with the Taranis. I had a fly away with my first Eachine, because of a defective Spektrum DX6 and lack of fail-safe. After that I switched to the Taranis, which doesn't cost much more and has way more capacity.

u/mszkoda · 2 pointsr/Sourdough

I'd recommend buying a scale for sure. I got a $15 one off Amazon (I think this one) that isn't really a big kitchen scale, just a cheap scale that goes to .1 grams and it has worked fine for years if you just wipe it down and take care of it.

Just a note, you can also use the folding method if you wanted to and not do any kneading since it can be tough to get the kneading level correct. I tried to basically get a process that took a bit of time overall, but wasn't very involved (aka I'm around the house, but don't want to spend an hour straight making bread). You do need a few hours for folding (you can YouTube this, it's basically just folding the dough on top of itself a few times), but you're basically just folding it a few times every 30-45 minutes, so it's not like you are engaged with it for the whole time. I'm not gonna bother to include my recipe because it's usually for a really big loaf and it's pretty generic, but maybe this process will interest you since it's pretty straightforward:

Dissolve starter in warm water, add flour and mix. Autolyse 30 min. After 30 minutes, add salt, pinch and fold to incorporate. Stretch and fold every 30-45 min for 3-4 hours. Flour a surface and put the dough on it, pre-shape and bench rest for 10-30 minutes (or whatever, sometimes I don't even rest it and it still works). Put it in a banneton or a bowl and put the whole thing in the fridge for 18-24 hours (you can do 48 or probably 72 if you wanted; as you approach 72 it starts to lose air and kind of collapses).

Preheat dutch oven to 500F (this normally takes longer than the standard oven pre-heat cylce; I let it warm in there at least 30 mins), take dough directly from fridge, slowly turn onto parchment paper (don't plop it down, I push the parchment against the banneton and kind of just turn it upside down slowly) score dough place in covered dutch oven. Turn heat down to 455F, bake covered for 30 minutes then take the lid off and bake another 10-20 minutes depending on how dark you want it.

This is my most recent one and then a crumb shot of one of my early ones: https://imgur.com/a/KqwFCMd

u/JohnnyRockets911 · 2 pointsr/ketochow

I use this one because it has an accuracy of 0.01 grams: link

And then I also have this one for weighing things more than 500 grams: link

Enjoy the samples! Let us know which flavors you like best! :)

u/nkle222 · 1 pointr/Coffee

For Aeropress I have the burr setting on 7 and typically run between 30-45 depending on the bean. I think the biggest issue maybe solved by just weighing the beans with a decent scale that measures beyond whole grams. Lot easier to dial in on ratios that way.

u/cashglow · 1 pointr/kratom

Buy a cheap scale on Amazon and some caps.

caps

scale

u/zodoor · 1 pointr/Silverbugs

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010HKEDPK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

very accurate and goes up to 104oz. so you can weigh that big Gieger your goinna get .

u/brooklandia1 · 1 pointr/tea

I do abt 1g-90mL. Tea volume is so broad (tightly rolled Oolong is 4x as dense per volume, as say Yin Zhen), that I find it's impossible to get consistent results without a digital scale.

I use a .1g precision scale like this, ~10USD on amazon, with a little Duralex glass prep bowl to weigh the tea. I think it's the 2oz.