Reddit Reddit reviews Spring Loaded Beer Bottle Filler

We found 21 Reddit comments about Spring Loaded Beer Bottle Filler. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Kitchen & Dining
Home & Kitchen
Home Brewing & Wine Making
Beer Brewing Equipment
Beer Brewing Bottles & Bottling
Spring Loaded Beer Bottle Filler
Spring loaded tip for easy fillingFills bottles form bottom upKeeps from spilling Brew during bottlingItem Package Dimension: 15.1" L x 0.4" W x 0.4" H
Check price on Amazon

21 Reddit comments about Spring Loaded Beer Bottle Filler:

u/balathustrius · 14 pointsr/mead

You would like to know about a bottle wand.

It has a spring loaded stop. You press it against the bottom of the bottle - the bottle fills all the way to the rim - stop pressing and remove the bottle wand - perfect fill level every time - when you stop pressing on the wand, it stops releasing mead/beer/wine/etc.

u/chadridesabike · 4 pointsr/Homebrewing

That's the kit I started with in September. The beer turned out great, even though I forgot to aerate it before pitching the yeast. I think it was around 4% ABV. The kit has everything you need to get started and you can upgrade from there. The bottle filler sucked, so I would recommend a spring tip one like this. Since then, I have upgraded to a bigger kettle and purchased a glass carboy.

Side note: Northern Brewer was recently acquired by InBev, and /r/homebrewing is not happy about it. I've started ordering from www.love2brew.com instead.

u/spotta · 3 pointsr/Homebrewing

Ha. :)

I was thinking more about one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Spring-Loaded-Beer-Bottle-Filler/dp/B000E66A4U.

It seals when you no longer press down, keeping beer in the line.

u/Tychus_Kayle · 3 pointsr/trebuchetmemes

I've made some slight modifications to this, mostly to make it easier to follow. I've also included steps that should be quite obvious to someone who's done any homebrewing before, but I wish someone had told me when I first started.

I'd link to the original, for the sake of attribution, but the user who posted this deleted their account not long after I wrote everything down.

This will produce a sweet fruit-mead (or melomel). WARNING this will be far more alcoholic than it tastes, and should not be consumed if you've recently taken antibiotics, or suffered gastric distress, as the yeast culture will still be alive, and will happily colonize your intestines if your gut microbiome is too fucked up.

Equipment: Most of this stuff will be a good deal cheaper at your local homebrew store, but I've included amazon links (also to the yeast).

At least 2 (3 is better, for reasons we'll get to) 1-gallon jugs (I don't recommend scaling this up), glass preferred. Add an extra jug for each additional batch. This one includes a drilled stopper and airlock

Drilled stoppers (or carboy bungs) and airlocks, non-drilled rubber stoppers.

An autosiphon and food-safe tubing.

Food-safe sanitizing solution (I recommend StarSan).

An electric kettle with temperature selector is useful, but not needed.

If you want to bottle it rather than just keeping a jug in your fridge:

Empty beer or wine bottles (just save your empties), capping or corking equipment, caps or corks, and a bottling wand.

Ingredients:

2.5 lbs (1130g) honey, clover recommended.

A cup (approximately 250ml) or so of fruit (I recommend blackberries, and I strongly recommend against cherries, other recipes have worked for me, but this yields a very medical flavor with cherries).

1 packet Lalvin EC-1118 yeast (a champagne yeast notable for its hardiness, its ability to out-compete other microorganisms, and its high alcohol tolerance).

Optional: potassium sorbate (to reduce yeast activity when our ferment is done), pectic enzyme (aka pectinase - for aesthetic purposes). Both are also available in bulk.

Process:

Day 1:

Mix sanitizing solution with clean water at specified proportions in one of your jugs, filling the jug most of the way. Stopper it, shake it. Remove stopper, set it down wet-side-up (to keep it sterile), pour the fluid to another jug. There will be foam left behind, this is fine, don't bother to rinse it or anything. At low concentrations this stuff is totally fine to drink, and won't ruin your fermentation or flavor.

Add honey to jug, all of it.

If you have a kettle, and your jug is glass, heat water to around 160F (71 Celsius), pour a volume into your jug roughly equal to the amount of honey present. Fix sterile stopper to jug. Shake until honey and water are thoroughly combined. The heat will make it FAR easier to dissolve the honey. Set aside for an hour or so while it cools. Add clean water 'til mostly full, leaving some room for fruit and headspace.

If you're missing a kettle, or using a plastic jug, this is gonna be a little harder. Fill most of the way with clean water (I recommend using a filter) leaving some room for fruit and headspace. Fix sterile stopper, shake 'til honey and water are thoroughly combined. This will take a while, and you will need to shake VERY vigorously.

At this point, you should have a jug mostly-full of combined honey and water. To this, add fruit (inspecting thoroughly for mold, don't want to add that). Then dump in a single packet of the Lalvin EC-1118 yeast, don't bother rehydrating it first or anything, it'll be fine going straight in. Add pectic enzyme if you have it (this does nothing to the flavor, it just makes the end product less cloudy). Stopper it up, shake it again. This jug now contains your "must" (pre-ferment mead).

Pour some sterilizing fluid in a bowl, put a carboy bung/drilled stopper in the bowl, with an airlock. Ensure full immersion. Let sit for a minute. Replace stopper with your bung/drilled stopper, affix airlock. Fill airlock with clean water, sanitizing fluid, or vodka. Rinse the stopper, fix it to your jug of sanitizing fluid.

Place must-jug in a dark place, I recommend a cabinet or closet.

Days 2-7:

Retrieve jug, give it a little jostle. Nothing so vigorous as to get your mead into the airlock, but enough to upset it. This is to release CO2 buildup, and to keep any part of the fruit from drying out. The foaming from the CO2 release may be very vigorous. Do this over a towel for your first batch. If the foam gets into your airlock, clean your airlock and reaffix it. Perform this jostling procedure at least once per day, more is better.

Day 8:

Final jostling, I recommend doing this in the morning.

Day 9:

let it sit, we want the sediment to settle.

Day 10: Time to get it off the sediment

Shake sterilizing fluid jug. Affix tubing to siphon. Put the siphon in the sterilizing fluid, shake the jug a little just to get the whole siphon wet. Siphon fluid into either a third container or a large bowl. This is all to sterilize both the inside and outside of your siphoning system.

Remove siphon from jug. Give it a couple pumps to empty it of any remaining fluid. Place siphon in your mead jug, leaving the end of the tubing in sterilizing fluid while you do this.

Take the jug that you just siphoned the sterilizing fluid from. Dump what fluid remains in it. Place the end of the tubing in this jug, then siphon the mead into it. Make no attempt to get the last bit of mead into your fresh container, it's mostly dead yeast and decomposing fruit.

Add potassium sorbate if you have it, stopper the jug, place it in your fridge.

Clean the jug you started in. Clean your siphon and tubing.

Day 11:

Let it sit

Day 12 or later: time to transfer again, or bottle it.

If you no longer have a jug full of sterilizing fluid, make one.

Repeat the earlier steps to sterilize the siphoning system, with a bottling wand attached to the end of the tubing if you want to bottle.

Sterilize your bottles or a clean jug, either with fluid or heat.

Siphon mead either into your bottles or jug. Stopper/cap/cork when done.

Put your jug/bottles in the fridge.

The yeast culture is still alive, and will continue to ferment. The fridge, and optional potassium sorbate, will merely slow this down. I recommend drinking any bottles within two months, to avoid a risk of bursting bottles. The mead should already be tasty at this point, but usually tastes much better after a couple more weeks.

EDIT: Fixed the formatting up a bit.

u/bunsonh · 3 pointsr/Kombucha

When I brew in bulk, I do like the beer homebrew folk do and use an auto-siphon with a bottle filler attachment. The siphon goes into the bucket, held just above the bottom to avoid the dead yeast, and stays far enough below the surface to (mostly) avoid the yeast strands, everything staying still and not mixed around. When a strand does sneak through, it gets caught in the bottle filler tip and can be easily wiggled out if problematic. It makes filling bottles extremely clean and simple. But unless you're brewing 3+ gallons in a single container, it's probably not worth the effort and I end up just using strainer + funnel.

u/VanGoFuckYourself · 2 pointsr/Kombucha

You want one of these https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B072C2YYHR/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1509601569&sr=8-2-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Bucket+spigot+beer&psc=1

And these https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000E66A4U/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1509601632&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Bottle+filler+beer&dpPl=1&dpID=11RVezcyCFL&ref=plSrch

The filler goes on the spigot, you slide the bottle onto it until the bottom pushes up the black bit of plastic and it fills the bottle.

Open your dishwasher (assuming you have one) and put the bucket on the counter above and you have the perfect drop catcher.

This cut my fill time and mess down a huge amount.

u/3Vyf7nm4 · 2 pointsr/Homebrewing

Hopefully you're filling with a wand. If not, you should be filling with a wand. When you do, fill to the apparent top of the bottle. The headspace you create when you remove the wand will be a) the correct amount, and b) the same for all your bottles.

u/chinsi · 2 pointsr/Homebrewing

It is fairly easy to get large equipment like vessels and burners locally in India but it's the little stuff that makes your brew day/bottling day easier like the bottle fillers and auto siphons which are kind of difficult/expensive to get hold off. Depending on which city you are in hops, malts and yeast can be easy to source especially if you have any brewpubs around. The selection of hops is again very limited so like like /u/chino_brews suggested you could get bulk hops from YCH. Dry brewing yeast is available (Fermentis, Lallemand) but it is mostly sold in 500g bricks so I would recommend picking up some 11g packets as well. You should definitely pick up a large 16/32 oz bottle of StarSan and a tub of PBW or something similar for cleaning and sanitizing. I would also pick up a hand held bottle capper, a racking cane, a couple of airlocks and a spigot for bottling. Almost everything else can be improvised or jugaad if you're a little handy :)

u/hoky315 · 2 pointsr/Homebrewing
u/Fenix159 · 2 pointsr/Homebrewing

I ordered one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Spring-Loaded-Beer-Bottle-Filler/dp/B000E66A4U after my first batch.

Also started with the NB kit.

This wand is great. Sometimes I get a very slow drip from it but unless you're gonna wait several minutes between bottles it isn't an issue. Even if you let it drip for five minutes you'd lose less than half a bottle.

u/biernas · 2 pointsr/cider

Sorry I tend to do my brewing calculations in imperial (Murican) but.. what I shoot for is a ratio of roughly (usually just a tad under) 1 oz/1 gallon when using dextrose.

For a 5 gallon batch I usually use 4-5 oz in most beers/ciders of medium-higher carbonation. Perhaps shoot for the lower side of that spectrum if you think you may have any residual sugars. If a cider is a bit undercarbed in the end it's not so big of an issue in my opinion.

So to convert converting to metric that would put you at about 13g/liter of what I use maximum if I'm not mistaken. 10-12 g/l should be more than plenty.


> Are there any major differences between top to top siphoning between fermenters, and tap to bottle? (Presuming 10 minutes to let the priming solution diffuse.) We would minimise splash and thus oxygenation in both cases.

Sorry not sure what you're referring to with your process. Maybe you could explain a little better what you're looking to do.

Here are the general beginner steps most people use for bottle carbonating:

  1. Heat the measured dextrose in a small amount of water (I wouldn't stress the volume of water, just enough for it to dissolve and become an aqueous solution works fine).
    I usually heat it until just before a boil or cut it right as I see a boil. As it cools I start getting everything setup.

  2. Once I'm ready I pour the dextrose water (once it's not boiling hot) into the bottom of a bottling bucket allowing my dextrose to get an even dispersion in the cider when I rack vs just pouring it on top after racking.
    Usually the dextrose mix cools relatively quickly especially as the cold bucket acts as a heat sink. It's best to not rack the cider right onto the boiling hot mixture.

  3. I rack my cider carefully into the bucket.
    A good tip is keeping the tubing just below the surface of the cider in the bottling bucket as it fills so I'm not splashing and introducing larger amounts of oxygen.

  4. Then I use a bottling wand attached to my tubing and fill each bottle from my bottling bucket and subsequently cap them.

    Sorry for the wall of text haha. That's a quick little rundown, hopefully it helps! If you have any questions feel free to ask!
u/_Philbo_Baggins_ · 2 pointsr/mead

Your recipe sounds like it'll turn out well if all goes according to plan! You may want to add some sweetness back if it ferments dry, but you've got several weeks to figure that out and read the Wiki to get all caught up on the method and terminology to things like back sweetening and nutrient addition schedules. I admire that you're being industrious with your fermentation equipment, I wasn't brave enough to start fermenting with whatever I had on hand with my first batch.

If you think you'll stick with it, here's the equipment I used for my first batch. I highly recommend looking into it if you think you'll do another batch! (I apologize if you aren't in the US, Amazon is my go-to)

  • Hydrometer - $15.99 | You'll definitely want one of these first! It'll help you figure out when fermentation is done, plus it's nice to know your ABV when your friends or family ask "How strong is this?" (if you like to share)
  • One Gallon Glass Carboy with Airlock, Drilled Stopper, Polyseal Lid - $14.81 | A glass carboy could last you forever! These have done very well for me, and the included airlock will give you a great setup for less than $15. The screw-on cap is just an added bonus, I use mine when I cold-crash.
  • Star San 16 oz - $16 | This seems like the go-to sanitizer for the sub, and I use it as well. If you think you'll do several batches, I recommend going with the 32 oz size instead! It's much cheaper per ounce.
  • Campden Tablets aka K-Meta (Potassium Metabisulfite) - $6.08 | This will help you preserve and stabilize your mead before you bottle. Some people don't, but it's highly recommended!
  • Auto Siphon - $13.99 | This makes racking to secondary and bottling much easier! When it comes time to bottling, it's also really nice to have a Bottling Wand - $5.86

    All-in-all, this is just about my current setup excluding yeast, yeast nutrients, and extra carboys and airlocks. The list above comes out to about $127.45 USD before tax, which really isn't too bad considering one gallon should yield just shy of 5 standard wine bottles! Most commercial meads I've seen ranges from $15-$25 with some exceptions (There's a winery near me called Oliver Winery that makes a mead called Camelot Mead that sells for about $8 per bottle. Very good for such a cheap mead, you can probably find it at Total Wine & More if you have one nearby).

    ​

    Sorry for such a long comment! Best of luck in your mead-making adventure!

    Edit: If you have a local homebrew store, I would opt for that rather than Amazon. Prices may not be as cheap but you won't have to wait for shipping, you'll be able to support a local business, and employees at homebrew stores are usually really helpful and they can recommend recipes and give you pointers. Nothing beats face-to-face interaction!
u/ProfessorHeartcraft · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

I would strongly caution against a 35 quart pot. The Bayou Classic 44 quart (11 gallon) pot is only a little more, and it's of dimensions more ameniable to brewing (tall, rather than squat). If you plan to migrate to BiaB, the version with the basket is quite useful; you'll be able to fire your heat source without worrying about scorching the bag.

For ingredients, I would recommend looking around for a LHBS (local homebrew shop). You'll likely not save much money ordering those online, due to their weight/cost ratio, and a LHBS is often the centre of your local community of homebrewers.

With regard to literature, my bible is John Palmer's How To Brew. You can also read the first edition online, but much has been learnt since that was published and the latest edition has current best practices.

That equipment kit is decent, but there are a lot of things in it you'll probably wish you hadn't bought.

You will want:

u/scottish_beekeeper · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Brew-Your-British-Real-Camra/dp/1852492589 is excellent - gives clear simple advice, as well as having a good selection of British ales, milds, porters and stouts - if that's your thing.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Sacred-Herbal-Healing-Beers-Fermentation/dp/0937381667/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1368899642&sr=1-1&keywords=sacred+herbal+beers is also a really interesting book - an anthropological of the history and mythology of brewing, complete with recipes! A lot of the recipes are a bit simple, or sugar-based, but it (like Radical Brewing) is a really good source of inspiration and historical knowledge.

Advice? Get a bottling wand and a vinator and bottle draining rack and shave tons of time off your bottling day.

u/Elmattador · 1 pointr/Kombucha

I recently got one of these, no foam from pouring into bottles
Spring Loaded Beer Bottle Filler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E66A4U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_DNWb6NyYyNjOT

u/Chimaerik · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

Yes, ideally you would attach a syphon tube to a bottling wand like this and use that to fill your bottles.

u/bluelinebrewing · 1 pointr/Homebrewing
  1. Basically, yes. Typically people use a bucket with a spigot on it -- siphon into the bucket with some sugar to prime the beer, then use the spigot with a bottling wand to fill the bottles. You can, however, add a small amount of sugar to the bottles and siphon directly from the fermenter into bottles.
  2. Sure. You can't reuse caps, though.
  3. I haven't found a great source for plastic bottles. What you're looking for is amber (or brown) PET bottles. Clear or green will skunk your beer quickly.
  4. You have to clean and sanitize each bottle, so bottling day can be a bit of a chore. You've got to store them, which can be a pain in the butt. There will be a little bit of yeast sediment in every bottle, so you want to pour very carefully and leave the last 1/4" or so at the bottom of the bottle. My least favorite thing about bottles is probably the opposite of your pressure barrel problem -- I don't have a dedicated beer fridge, so I'd only have 2 or 3 bottles at a time.
u/elgaot5 · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

That's actually not bad but as mentioned below, a decent pot will go a long way. I bought a 30quart turkey fryer and put in a ball valve and that's been one of the best upgrades I've made. I have a fermentor now, but I got some free 6+ gallon food grade icing buckets from my grocery's bakery. Spigots, air locks, and bottling wands are $6 on Amazon. Tubing can be found pretty cheap online or at LHBS/hardware store.

Kettle - $25

Ball Valve - $22

Bazooka Screen - $9

Buckets - Free

Spigot - $6

Airlocks - $7

BIAB Bag - $5

Bottling Wand - $5

Capper with Caps - $18

Various Tubing - $15

This doesn't include your first beer kit, but you can pull off an all grain BIAB as long as you've got fire. My second favorite piece I own is my mash tun which is just a 10 gallon cooler with a bazooka screen and ball valve. I don't bottle anymore, but I feel like if I were to do it again that's all I would need to start. Oh, and a thermometer and some StarSan.

u/notpace · 1 pointr/Kombucha

Use the auto siphon that came from the homebrewing kit - it's absolutely worth it. Bonus points if you have a bottle filler attached to the other end of the hose.