Reddit reviews SRA #312 Soldering Flux Pen Low-Solids, No-Clean 10ml - Refillable

The soldering iron you have is fine. I bought my batteries from console5.com . As far as other things, I would suggest some flux and a desolder braid/wick. If you don't have solder I would grab some of that too. I've got alphafry solder, mg chemicals desolder wick, and sra flux.

Batteries:
https://console5.com/store/panasonic-cr2032-3v-lithium-battery-with-solder-tabs-pins.html

Desolder wick:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00424S2C8/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1525828012&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=solder+wick

Flux:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008OC0E5M/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525828121&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=solder+flux+pen&dpPl=1&dpID=31u2-ijUmFL&ref=plSrch

Solder:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00030AP48/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525828185&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=solder

As /u/Harakou commented, make sure to have desoldering materials. But for desoldering several switches at a time, I had trouble making progress with a regular solder sucker (the braid is very useful for small scale rework). So I bought a desoldering iron for several Planck and Ergodox rebuilds.

And to add to /u/deaconblue42 , a flux pen helped me a lot whenever I struggled to get good wetting action (watch the videos, it's a thing).

From my research that I've done in the past this indicates:

1 - bad ribbon connection.

2 - the CPU in the main board (t-con) is going bad.

3 - the cpu has developed some microscopic solder cracks.

Open it up and check for faulty ribbon cable connections. They are fairly easy to take apart just remember where everything goes.

If messing with ribbon cable didn't do anything, and since we may be looking at a bad main board anyway, you may try to reflow the main board CPU.

There are different ways to go about doing this like sticking it in kitchen oven at a certain temperature but the easiest would be to use a heat gun with no clean solder.

Here's an el cheapo heat gun that you can try with out breaking the bank.

http://www.harborfreight.com/1500-watt-dual-temperature-heat-gun-572-1112-96289.html

Here's a no clean solder pen:

https://www.amazon.com/SRA-Soldering-Flux-Low-Solids-No-Clean/dp/B008OC0E5M

Youtube "heatgun CPU reflow" to see what I'm referring to.

Flux Pen

Here is the flux pen I am accustomed to using. It works well for most applications, and is fairly inexpensive.

Thanks! Glad I could be helpful.

The reflow station/solder paste is just awesome. The results are so much better than the hand soldering I tried to do initially.
My tips for the hot air reflow- Keep the air speed low (I do 1.5 - 1.75 speed @ 350c), you don't want to send the components sliding around the PCB. You only need a tiny dab of solder paste on a tinned board, otherwise you'll end up with little balls of solder where the excess collects. These can be knocked off with tweezers, but you should be careful to check for them as they can cause shorts.

I forgot one of the most useful tools out there! This is maintained by one of the FB Euro SMD DIY Noobs members.

This is the repository I use for .hex files. It's maintained by another SMD Noobs member.

These are the tweezers I use for handling SMD parts.

You'll also want a flux pen! Flux pens are wonderful.

I'd also suggest a magnifying glass or jeweler's loup of some sort for inspecting the PCB for shorts. I use a 10x loupe.



Here's a pic of my current workspace in an unusually clean state.

My SMD component filing technique. A work in progress.

Feel free to let me know if you have any more questions.

> along with a soldering iron to do repairs.

Totally agree. I would suggest any of the Weller pro series models(Indicated with the light blue chasis like the Weller WP35). Even their most inexpensive model is better than anything I have used off the shelf at Home Depot. Consistent tempuratures and fast heat up.

Additionally, I would also recommend a solder sucker and a flux pen. You could splurge for something like a Haako Desoldering gun which works great but unless you are doing entire board repairs the simple spring loaded ones work fine and costs considerablly less.

Heated PCBs are hard anyway because they are a weird combination of heatsinking and thermally insulative. If you are ever going to solder a second thing, just get a good Hakko or something. I have the analog version of the linked iron, and love it. I leave it at 350C constantly ... it gets to temp in like 20 seconds and holds it rock solid.

http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-Digital-FX888D-CHP170-bundle/dp/B00AWUFVY8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421772043&sr=8-1&pebp=1421772044939&peasin=B00AWUFVY8

Also:
http://www.amazon.com/SRA-Soldering-Flux-Low-Solids-No-Clean/dp/B008OC0E5M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421772121&sr=8-1&pebp=1421772121985&peasin=B008OC0E5M

I'd highly suggest you plunk down and get both. You'll feel like a wizard from now on with soldering. For the flux pen, just drown your connections, wire, pads, etc in flux before soldering. Within a very generous reason, you cannot overflux things, and it makes the solder actually behave like it should. It globs where it's supposed to, doesn't make those stupid little peaky points that bridge everywhere, and so on.

No flux and $8 iron. This was incredibly frustrating to do. The connections are solid but look like total shit. I was afraid of accidentally getting solder touching two pads since this is so tiny. How do you guys do it? The videos make it look so easy. -_-


EDIT: Thanks everyone. I ordered some flux and a new soldering station online, rush ordered so it'll be here tomorrow. My ESCs and motors arrive today and tomorrow too so trying to get everything together so I can maiden this this weekend. I soldered everything on my 450 but the soldering pads were huge in comparison and most of what I did was adding bullet connectors to the pads. I've been flying it for months, no flux on it either.

• Soldering Station: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MBQ41NS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Flux: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008OC0E5M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Solder: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068IJNQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  I'll post the re-do afterwards.

Definitely does!

This flux pen look good?

Also, I have what seems to be a slightler version of a phillips head as my solder tip, it came with the gun.

Is some like this better to use in my case or what solder tip type would you recommend?

Soldering is one of those tasks where it really pays off to invest a little bit more in your tools at the beginning. /u/1-11 mentioned the Weller WLC100 - I second this recommendation. I've had one for almost 8 years and it's never let me down, though I bought a nicer iron a few years ago (Aoyue 968A+) and the Weller hasn't seen much use since.

The kit you posted is probably not very high quality. I would steer away from it and spend the extra money to get something you know will perform well for years. You do want some of the things from that kit, though:

• Solder sucker
  
  
• Solder wick
  
  
• Tweezers
  
  
• Various tips
  
  
• Flux (I use a flux pen similar to this one for most things as it's a little easier to apply)
  
  A good way to practice is to get some perf board (the tan-colored breadboard-looking PCB prototyping boards), a pack of random wires and/or resistors/capacitors, and just start soldering things in. SparkFun sells some good kits for beginner soldering, and they have a few good tutorials as well.
  
  Always use flux, always tin your wires before soldering them to anything, and always hold the iron on the solder long enough for it to completely flow. Learn how to use solder wick and you'll be able to repair just about anything. Finally, always tin your tips before storing the iron - don't want the tips to corrode!

You can, http://www.amazon.com/SRA-Soldering-Flux-Low-Solids-No-Clean/dp/B008OC0E5M/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1450382622&sr=8-3&keywords=soldering+flux

And yes, most solder has flux as well.

I typically go over all of the pads with a flux pen

Then for every set of pads, I solder a small amount on one side.

Then I get all of the diodes ready and with a pair of tweezers in one hand and the soldering iron in the other, I hold them in place and reheat the solder and contacts to tack them down on one side.

After they're all soldered down on one side, I put the tweezers down and grab the solder wire and solder down the remaining sides.

This build guide for the Helidox actually shows pretty well.

https://github.com/foostan/crkbd/blob/master/corne-cherry/doc/buildguide_jp.md#%E3%83%80%E3%82%A4%E3%82%AA%E3%83%BC%E3%83%89

I got this iron: http://www.amazon.com/Soldering-Station-Features-Continuously-Variable/dp/B0029N70WM/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1413223923&sr=8-7&keywords=soldering+iron but for throughhole work a pen is fine.

the elenco soldering kit I got was this: http://www.amazon.com/Elenco-FM-88K-FM-Radio-Kit/dp/B004YHZE0G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413223964&sr=8-1&keywords=elenco+fm

you can get a flux pen, is that what you're asking? you probably won't need one for throughhole work but this one's good: http://www.amazon.com/SRA-Soldering-Flux-Low-Solids-No-Clean/dp/B008OC0E5M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413223992&sr=8-1&keywords=flux+pen

solder pump: http://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-Solder-Sucker--desoldering/dp/B0002KRAAG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413224011&sr=8-1&keywords=solder+pump

soldering wick: http://www.amazon.com/Aven-17542-Desoldering-2-5mm-Length/dp/B003E48ERU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413224038&sr=8-1&keywords=soldering+wick

and solder: http://www.amazon.com/Alpha-AT-31604-60-40-Solder-Ounces/dp/B00030AP48/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1413224060&sr=8-3&keywords=alpha+fry

I've used both the WESD51 and a few Hakko stations, they're both great. Personally I have the WESD51 because its easier for me to get tips, but either way hakko and weller and both pretty good, definitely go for the digital if you can afford it. Also I'd get a few spare tips and a tip cleaner along with some no clean flux. But I wouldn't get just a reflow, unless all you do is SMD, which you can totally do with a slightly steadier hand and an iron.