Reddit reviews Star brite Liquid Electrical Tape - 4 oz Can with Brush Applicator
We found 6 Reddit comments about Star brite Liquid Electrical Tape - 4 oz Can with Brush Applicator. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
Forms an airtight, protective, waterproof, UV resistant, dielectric coatingPrevents corrosion on wires and terminals, protects terminal screws from loosening due to vibrationPatented, UL-tested, fast drying formula & easy to use, cap has a brush applicatorMade with pride in the United StatesAdheres to all metal, plastic, vinyl, rubber and composite surfaces and can be built-up with additional layers
https://www.amazon.com/Star-brite-Liquid-Electrical-Tape/dp/B0000AXNOD
This is the one I used.
Solder and use liquid electrical tape.
Star brite Liquid Electrical Tape - 4 oz Can with Brush Applicator https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AXNOD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jvkkDb356CQPN
The copper one might give you a couple degrees (from what I read), but replacing the TIM with Grizz should get you around 20 degrees. At least that's what I got from my delid, and read others had been getting.
You don't need much liquid metal. A drop or 2 should be plenty. You can cover the capacitors with something jic there too much liquid metal. I used liquid electrical tape. Don't use the brush that comes with it. Use somethig smaller. It can get messy. Don't use the regular black tape cuz temps are too high. Use the orange tape if you go that route.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AXNOD/ref=od_aui_detailpages01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I just replaced my switch assembly and starter relay. Initial problem was as you mentioned. Had manual and next thing in the list to test was relay, friend showed up and shorted with a screw driver. Bike fired right up. He said thats the problem, $10 @ ebay and easy fix that didnt work. Dissassembled switch cause it was a little sticky, had to pull it out after starting once in a while or it'd keep spinning the starter motor, and watched what happened when hitting the button. The button moved, as it should, but also moved the button seat on the inside of the housing. So, sometimes worked, sometimes stuck, sometimes didn't work at all. The button is similar to shorting the relay in that it just connects the circuit long enough to start the bike. So I went to the local bike recycle place and dug through bins of handlebar housings untill I found a switch that looked like mine inside and out. $40 dollars and an hour later I was starting the bile every time with ease. Some $11 liquid electrical tape on the button seat wire connections that had split wire housings due to all the moving around while inspecting and di-electric grease made all the moving parts and plug connections lubed and water tight. I took a vid too if you're interested...