Reddit Reddit reviews SunRace Shimano Compatible Index Hanger Plate with Nut and Bolt

We found 8 Reddit comments about SunRace Shimano Compatible Index Hanger Plate with Nut and Bolt. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Sports & Outdoors
Cycling
Bike Components & Parts
Outdoor Recreation
SunRace Shimano Compatible Index Hanger Plate with Nut and Bolt
Never UsedBrand NewModel: 103576
Check price on Amazon

8 Reddit comments about SunRace Shimano Compatible Index Hanger Plate with Nut and Bolt:

u/butter_isnt_a_snack · 6 pointsr/bikewrench

This is what you'll want to use: Amazon Link

u/damncourier · 4 pointsr/bikewrench

derailleurs used to clamp on to the back portion of drop out. there are adapters for one's that don't have a plate and clamp. the listing doesn't show the rear part but something like https://www.amazon.com/SunRace-Shimano-Compatible-Index-Hanger/dp/B001PT8M8C

u/oxpoleon · 2 pointsr/bicycling

With the dérailleurs, sure. All you need is another dérailleur and a hanger like this: https://www.amazon.com/SunRace-Shimano-Compatible-Index-Hanger/dp/B001PT8M8C

This just slots into the dropout- you'll need one of these since the one on the Eco is riveted in place.

u/All_Hail_King_Sheldn · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

While some shifters are better than others, at this price point, they all will be about the same. If you want thumb shifters, that is a perfectly valid choice. There are also some trigger shifters out there, as well as grip shifters if you wanted to keep that style. As long as the shifter is shimano compatible, and 7 speed, it will work with your current freewheel and derailleur.

>As for what you described with the current drivetrain, what i think I'm seeing you suggest is 'clip the front derailleur off/remove it, leave the current crankset on with the chain at the middle gear since even though not optimal it current funds can be better spent elsewhere.' Am I reading that right?

No. The bottom bracket axle length will determine how close to or far from the frame the chankset is. This article on Chainline may be of some help.

What I was suggesting is that you can still change the crankset, and leave the derailleur in place as a chain guide (tighten the limit screws to ensure that the derailleur is centered over the chainring). They make purpose built chain guides, but the derailleur is already there and will work, so free chain guide.

As far as the rear derailleur, you have a claw mount derailleur, so for anything "better" than what you have, you will need an adapter. As far as upgrading the derailleur, I would personally go for something along the lines of the Altus M2000 or Acera M3000. Note that these are "9 speed" derailleurs, but the cable pull is the same as 5-8 and the shifter dictates the "speeds" shifted, so they will drop right in.

Pedals, Rockbros are the current king of the inexpensive. They come in a few colours, so you can match that to your taste.

Weeding the bad out is sometimes as easy as reading reviews, yes. However, look beyond the amazon for reviews. I generally prefer a video review, so I frequent YouTube for them, but google/duckduckgo can usually find a few forum posts as well that will answer questions.
It is also sometimes as easy as knowing a trusted name, and using their part over a shady one. Shimano and Sram parts are usually trusted and reliable on the drivetrain. Rockshox, Fox, and Manitou are good for shocks and forks, but Suntour is also sometimes good. There are more brands that are great, but on the low end price point, just play it by ear.

u/Meansekine · 1 pointr/bicycling

To get a replacement bolt and backing plate, go to your local bike shop and ask for one of these. Don't buy this one from Amazon because that price is ridiculous. Should be about 5 bucks at a bike shop. You wont need the plate portion but it might be good to have around if you ever need to replace the derailleur with a newer style.

That might be the backing plate in the picture but I'm not sure. It looks more like the cone for the rear axle, in which case you may also be missing the lock nut. Anyway, one thing at a time. Is the wheel still on the bike?

u/p34y95p9hfcsd · 1 pointr/bikewrench

If you run friction shifters you'd have an easy enough time running a triple and then you can run 5 speeds in the back and get way more useful gear range than any 1x setup. Super cheap to find old triples at any bike kitchen/co-op type place. Even nice ones with removable rings in 110/74 bcd are super common from late 80s and early 90s MTBs.

Rivendell sells friction bar end shifters pretty cheap and you have the flexibility to upgrade the rear wheel to 8 speed in the future if you find a deal on a used one off an old hybrid or something.

I'd recommend buying a new derailleur claw like that one so you start off with something straight. Consider keeping a spare around if you park your bike in a crowded rack, they are cheap enough.

This could get done for 100-200 depending on what the used parts market is like where you live. The new bar-end shifters would be the most expensive thing unless you opt for a new rear wheel too.

u/hf7hf · 1 pointr/bikewrench

Even if it wasn't possible to bend it back (I've bent worse back and they worked fine) you can just leave it there and install a derailleur claw adapter like they use on cheap bikes and then you're off to the races. This works with any frame that has old-school horizontal dropouts. The only trick in the case of this surly would be getting the adjuster screws out and replaced with a shorter one.

u/Person4645 · 1 pointr/bicycling

Oh, super easy then! One of these for your rear derailleur, any will do. For front derailleur get one with a "band" that's sized for the diameter of your seat tube.

And then for shifters/brifters, check if your LBS has anything for 2x7. If they don't, look into non-indexed friction downtub shifters, and some plain old ergo, aero brake levers. Then you'll be fully geared again!