Reddit Reddit reviews Super Lube Synthetic Multi-Purpose Grease, 3 Oz.

We found 80 Reddit comments about Super Lube Synthetic Multi-Purpose Grease, 3 Oz.. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Oils & Fluids
Greases & Lubricants
Automotive Greases
Automotive Lithium Greases
Super Lube Synthetic Multi-Purpose Grease, 3 Oz.
Patented synthetic NLGI grade 2 heavy-duty, multipurpose lubricantDielectric, Food Grade, CleanNSF Rating H-1, safe for incidental food contactWill not drip, run or evaporate
Check price on Amazon

80 Reddit comments about Super Lube Synthetic Multi-Purpose Grease, 3 Oz.:

u/Kariko83 · 17 pointsr/3Dprinting

If you enjoy tinkering then the Folger Tech i3 2020 is a pretty good printer and you can read my review of it here.

Get some Super Lube or other appropriate grease to pack the bearings with so that they don't fail on you like mine eventually did.

You will want to get a good set of metric hex keys as the vast majority of the screws are metric hex heads.

A soldering iron, 16g or better primary wire, and some solder are also a must as you will have to solder the leads to the heated bed so it can be connected to the RAMPS board.

Personally if I was to go back and build mine again I would toss the Mk2 heater PCB and use a Mk3 aluminum heated bed with a sheet of PEI on top from the start. It would have saved me both money and time troubleshooting both adhesion issues and the majorly warped heater PCB.

If you have any other questions don't hesitate to ask.

u/Virisenox_ · 10 pointsr/flashlight

My recommendation: Super Lube. It's cheap, and it will work on anything. With vaseline, the petroleum will damage certain types of o-rings. Astro-glide is just not designed for this type of application either.

Lots of people also really love Nyogel. Here's a good CPF thread about greases and lubes.

u/MadaMadaDesu · 7 pointsr/flashlight


$5 a tube. Safe for incidental food contact. Should last you for years, unless you have like 500 lights or something.

Wipe off gunk on thread with microfiber cloth.
Apply a tiny dab.
Work it in by tightening and loosening a few times.
Wipe off excess.

u/nexusheli · 6 pointsr/rccars

Standard WD-40 is not a lubricant. WD-40 displaces water and acts as a degreaser. It will work as a lubricant for a short period, but once it evaporates you'll have no lubrication.

The stuff you linked is a silicone lube that's simply under the WD-40 brand, it is not WD-40 in the traditional sense. As it's a spray, it's not the sort of lube you really want in a bearing; what you want is a really light silicone or lithium grease: that stays inside the bearing.

u/Ratus_ · 5 pointsr/flashlight

Links are fine.

Nyogel is good or you could just use this, it works just fine too.

I have a tube from 2003-ish that I'm still using, its basically a lifetime supply.

u/nubbinator · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

It's a thinner oil lubricant that's non-reactive with the plastic and often mixed with Krytox GPL 205, a grease lubricant. It's the "ultimate lube" for MX switch contact points (aside from clicky switch stems) according to some people at Geekhack, Deskthority, and some Korean sites. I recently got some as a gift and will try them out with my pseudo Ergo Clears in which I'll be using 67g Korean springs.

Of course, some people don't really see a difference between it and a cheap tube of Superlube. Some actually prefer Superlube and others think the Krytox is a little better, but not worth the premium.

u/ctyt · 4 pointsr/flashlight

Is it terrible that I use this stuff to lubricate my lights? Granted, my most expensive is a Convoy S2+.

u/Lion42 · 4 pointsr/flashlight


NyoGel is great but expensive. SuperLube is great but cheap...

u/PMMeAGiftCard · 3 pointsr/nintendo

I can tell you from experience these work great. I also put a little bit of Superlube Synthetic Grease in mine to slow down the wear and tear.

u/EngineeredMadness · 3 pointsr/Homebrewing

My gas toolbox:

Teflon Tape

Replacement gaskets for every fitting in service (tank-to-regulator, and all keg gaskets, beer nut / shank washers if doing faucets)

Extra tubing for gas and beverage

Extra barb-swivel nut fittings

Spray bottle with soapy water or starsan to check for leaks

Channel-lock wrench x 2 (many brass fittings are just threadded so you may need to hold one thing in place while threading or un-threading something else.

Nylon washers if using MFL/FFL connectors (I recommend this as opposed to barb).

Hose Clamps or Oketer Clamps and crimp tool

Faucet Wrench (if you're working with shanks - you do not want to wreck a new shank with a pair of pliers)

Extra picnic taps

Extra QDs

Keg Lube Generic Equivalent: It doesn't need to say Keg on it, it needs to be food grade. Do not mix silicone-based lubricant with silicone gaskets, it will kinda melt them. I have this stuff at the moment


u/ender32708 · 3 pointsr/ender3

Super Lube 21030 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2), 3 oz Tube

Any synthetic food grade grease would work.

u/Nyxian · 3 pointsr/airsoft

Hi. As both someone who uses Froglube on firearms, and as someone who techs AEG gearboxes...

It won't be harmful, but really isn't ideal. Specifically, froglube CLP isn't good, far too thin. The paste - well, if you properly treat all of the metal with the heat treatment, it'll be okay, but I still think a proper gear lubricant is in order.

You have to realize that while they are both "guns" - an AEG is far more a gearbox than a gun. You need gearbox lubricant not gun lubricant.

I highly suggest for seals and the like - a solid silicone lubricant. Barrels and mags - a teflon lubricant with alcohol application, so it dries but still provides lubrication, without getting on bbs.

For the gearbox? Go with Super lube.

u/jamiehofer · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Honestly as long as you purchase the aluminum Y-axis plate and use spacers alongside my Z-axis bed leveler you will get just as nice results. If you have a wood Y-axis plate you may not want to use spacers and possibly look into auto bed leveling solution.

I use something like this for lubricant:

As for the spacers I use aluminum spacers that are (I think) 1/4" OD 1/4" Length >3mm ID. Aluminum while the difference is most likely very little, it still is slightly better. I just would recomend going to a hardware store and finding spacers with an OD of 1/4" and length of 1/4" the ID does not matter as long as you can fit a 3mm bolt through it. Best to find something with a somewhat thick wall.

u/HungryMacaroon · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Can I use Super Lube 21030 to get rid of the crunchy noise my aftermarket springs make, or is it too thick?

Thanks in advance!

u/BigTung · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

$80 Zealios V2 67g Switches (These are 20% off right now if you want to get them cheaper!)

$160 KBDFans DIY Kit (Tofu Case, DZ60RGB PCB, Polycarbonate Plate, Stabilizers, Screws, USB C Cable, etc)

$25 Keycaps

$5 Super Lube 21030 (for lubing stabilizers)

Total Cost: $270


Next Upgrades:

$30 - Zeal Transparent Gold Plated PCB Mount Screw-in Stabilizers V2

$67 - Blue Zilents V2 Switches (Silent Tactile)

$8 - Tribosys 3204 Switch Lubricant

$75 - EPBT x biip Extended 2048 PBT Keycaps Set

u/Wolf_Hook · 2 pointsr/ar15

I've been using this grease on my CH and BCG. So far it's been great.

u/Yonkiman · 2 pointsr/voroncorexy

IIRC, Super Lube is the Voron-approved grease.

u/Trollygag · 2 pointsr/guns

Dis kind

Have also used dis but doggo chewed the tube so no mo squeezy.

u/dankchia · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

> costar stabs are the worst!

Fight me.

They do the job of stabilizing keys far far better than cherry style ones. Way less wiggle, much smoother and if you lube them; Hooh baby. Recommend this stuff.

Easiest way to get them on is to take both plastic inserts, and thread them into the wire on the board. Align them so you can put the cap on, and then do so slowly. Once you get the hang of it, the difference between the two is negligible. Some grease helps with the alignment process thanks to the viscosity.

u/bigj231 · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Bah. Save your money and go to your local hardware store. Tell them you want some clear grease like superlube. It's cheaper and perfectly fine for this kind of stuff.

Like this:

u/gabedamien · 2 pointsr/bicycling

Recommend checking out the vintage section at bikeforums. Some tricks:

An oxalic acid bath for a day or so works well for removing rust from steel (but don't use it on aluminum). Flitz polish, which I used for a lot, requires a lot of "elbow grease" but gets a good shine on things – including paint (make sure the decals are below the clearcoat!), but it does strip the satin anodizing off of aluminum. WD-40 removes a lot of dried-on crud that mere soap and water fail to solvate. If a brake bolt is rusted into the frame, drip WD-40 onto it, use a block of wood as a buffer and smash it with a hammer. If the quill stem is stuck/rusted, unscrew the stem bolt a few mm, use a buffer and smash it with a hammer. - this will loosen the expander wedge. Turning the seatpost (keep the saddle attached) in one constant direction while pulling up is the best way to gradually remove it if it's stuck - twisting it back and forth will gouge it in a particularly ugly fashion. Um... get an adjustable (aka "crescent") wrench, I don't think a single nut on this bike worked with my normal wrenches.

That's all I can think of at the moment. Basic bike stuff also applies, like greasing the threads of every bolt and (almost) every metal-metal contact point (the cranks are supposed to be a dry press fit, though!), and lubing all the pivots & springs & whatnot. I like synthetic SuperLube with PTFE for grease, and a dry chain lube with Teflon for lubricant.

u/itsZiz · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I wanted to share my first experience with switch swapping. I was nervous because so many people said the Leopold was hard to desolder and this was my first time soldering any thing. But it all went really well, so I wanted to share in case any one else is thinking about it plus some info that might be useful to you veterans as well.

One part of keyboard customization I don't see addressed much is deadening the ping and case sound. Some people add foam to the bottom, but I found going between the PCB and Plate reduces sound a LOT. This baby is stuffed like a turkey and sounds amazing.

I've also seen a lot of people saying how great the Engineer solder sucker is. While the build quality is nice I'm not sure its worth $25, and most of the performance was because of the silicon tip. So I just added one to a cheap sucker and it worked great. I was worried about the temp as it says it isn't rated up to 350c but it worked great with barely any discoloring, and for like $1 you get 3ft so it basically lasts forever.


Links -

Neoprene $12 1/8" -

Soldering Station $37 -

Solder Sucker $5 -

Silicon Tube 5x7mm $1 -

DSA Caps $35 -

Super Lube $5 -


I realized I really don't like the DSA keycap profile but this was a really nice set, pretty thick and great dye sub printing, way more crisp than my Enjoy PBT Cherry profile set I've been using.


I didn't have any lifted pads or issues at all despite me being a total noob. Using a 2.4mm chisel tip and my solder sucker combo worked really well. Just stuck the flat tip on flat side (top/bottom) of the soldered stem, let it heat up for about 5-6 seconds and then sucked. At 350c on my soldering Iron most guides said this was too long but i didn't have any issues, and going quicker left a lot of residue.

Also with the silicon tip I didn't have to move the soldering tip and place the sucker over the stem (doing this fast before the solder cools down is a pita) because of the silicon I just pressed it on top with the soldering iron still heating and sucked all at once. DEFINITELY worth the $1, made the process so much easier.

I also used Super Lube for all my lubing. This is what a lot of people use for the stabilizers as its really thick but then use expensive stuff for the switches. I just used a very small amount (scrape your brush off and then wipe it on so you can barely see it but its shiny). Worked great, no ping from the springs and very smooth and a $5 tube will last forever.


I want to do another now! need to decide on what type of switches I might like more than these super light 35g box reds. Maybe some speed switches? And I'll want to do a good solid metal case.

Overall I'm just super happy the whole thing worked without any problems. I get to use my really good Leopold plate/base/pcb (i really like the led under caps/num lock to let you know its on) with switches I like more!


If any one has any questions or needs help doing their first switch swap let me know, I'm 1 for 1 haha.

u/Kabong · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Have you tried lubricating the z-axis threaded rod? It's not mentioned anywhere in the assembly guide, but I found that a liberal application of super lube did wonders for my RepRapPro Mendel. The Z axis used to bind constantly when it moved too fast and now it's perfect.

u/portedtoreality · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I think the same machine oil you use for CNC will work, but I use sewing machine oil to lube the X and Y rods (couple drops) whenever they feel "dry" to the back of my finger:

For Z-axis, I use PTFE synthetic grease (drops all along the Z axis) like this every... 6 months?:

Also, make sure the extruder gears aren't grinding/biting into the filament too much and getting filament poo poo buildup all over the gears.

Spare nozzle, hotend, thermistor (I've only had to replace a hotend once in 2 years and also because I made a dumb mistake).

Don't be afraid to ask for help when you aren't sure because if you screw up, you may damage your printer.

u/GooberMcNutly · 2 pointsr/IAmA

I haven't fixed those in particular, but a fat blob of o-ring compatible grease will keep most in place until assembly. For water o-rings I like Super Lube

u/DocmanCC · 2 pointsr/Tools

I switched from Super Lube (which is great, I use it everywhere) to Permatex Ultra Engine Assembly Lube aka Red Lube of Love for my higher tooth-count ratchets. That stuff is extremely slick and sticky. Rats glide effortlessly, noticeably better than Super Lube. However, it is more quiet, so if you're the kind who feels or listens for the clicks you may not like it as much.

u/kungfu_jesus · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

You can find this at your local hardware store. Stab rattle can also be caused by the quality of the stab and size of wire. If you can remove and/or replace them easily I highly recommend genuine cherry stabs with this lube. The thicker wires and plastic used really help to tighten things up. I'm going on at least a month strong and no resurgence of rattle.

u/Thanhtacles · 2 pointsr/Nerf

White lithium grease wont kill your orings, but many claim that it's a rather thick and stiff lube, thus not being optimal for plunger systems. For any other application it's fine. YMMV, but I generally also dislike it for this reason.

SuperLube synthetic grease is a favorite. Sticks well, great application range, durable. It's thinner than WL, but if it's too thick, my little trick to making it looser is to add a little bit of silicon oil and give it a good mix before applying it. Silicon oil btw is the grease you'll notice when you first open up your blasters; I found out when I emailed buzzbee and hasbro asking for what they use. It's very slick, and very thin. I find making use of both resulted in best of both worlds.

u/arcanemachined · 2 pointsr/prusa3d

Hey another commentor made me look into it again. It seems like Super Lube (synthetic grease with PTFE/Teflon) (Amazon link) is what is recommended these days.

The other two I mentioned before have been used by a lot of people over the years and I haven't heard anything bad about them, but the folks at Prusa seem to be recommending Super Lube these days (links here and here).

FWIW, I use machine oil and I'm going to keep using machine oil. As the second link mentions, mixing lubricants can cause reactions between the old and the new stuff which can wreck your shit.

Hope this helped.

u/tealplum · 2 pointsr/Audi

The EGR system is just a bunch of hoses. Look at the diagram on this page and check those hoses for brittleness, leaks, or cracks. Also check the check valves. Over time they can look like they are almost melting? It's hard to explain, but if you know what they are you'll know what I'm talking about when you see it. There's also an "L" shaped plastic hose that comes out of the crankcase. Check it. It has a tendency to explode. Not a big deal if it does, you just lost HP and MPG til it's fixed. Oh and you leak oil.

Look at this preventative maintenance guide that a guy on the Audi forums posted. Read through each of them to learn about the car and check for them while inspecting.

If you are into DIY stuff, check the [Audi DIY] ( site. If you can't find it, google it. There's probably a writeup somewhere.


  • If you drive with a heavy foot you'll get around 18 MPG. Drive nicely and you can get 25 or so.

  • Never put anything less than 91 octane fuel in it. If you absolutely must, go into the store and buy octane booster.

  • Always use synthetic oil, and make sure you buy the larger filter. WIX makes a decent one for a good price. Also make sure you use the right type of oil. I used Royal Purple for a year until I got some pretty bad sludge. Yeah it's not on the list. Oils on the list have addatives that mitigate engine sludging.

  • Buy yourself some lithium grease and use it on your door hinges and sunroof each time you change your oil. The doors get squeaky and the sunroof can get choppy.

  • The turbo on the 1.8t is too small. It takes longer to cool down so if you drive like a maniac and turn it off it's going to cook your oil into sludge. Drive nicely once you're close to your destination and give the car 30 seconds to cool down. Or buy a turbo timer.

  • Buy a seat cover. If the seat isn't ripped yet it will be.

    This car will cost you more money than you want in repairs and maintenance. If you like to DIY it's not too bad. I saved 700 dollars doing my own timing belt+water pump+ tensioners. I still spent 500 between tools and parts but the DIY made it cheaper.

    That's all I can remember from my first post. If I remember anything else I'll add it in a new comment.
u/XTechHeroX · 2 pointsr/airsoft
u/gilbadon · 2 pointsr/MTB

Simple bike maintenance you need a multitool with:
allen wrenches (metric 2mm, 2.5mm, 3mm, 4mm, 5mm, 6mm, 8mm)
screwdrivers (flat, Phillips, and Torx T-25)

With that alone, you can do most minor bike maintenance. You SHOULD however also buy some lube for bolts, nuts, pivots and more. Almost anytime you take something apart that is not the chain, when putting it back on you want to lube it. I use the following:

You also want chain lube. A must have if you want your drive train to last which is basic maintenance as well. You can buy a crap brush to clean it on a regular basis or a full blown kit.

Tire levers and a pump or compressor are also a must. There is always one reason or another why a tire will need to be removed.

u/Samurai_TwoSeven · 2 pointsr/airsoft

Super Lube Grease and Oil

u/jescereal · 2 pointsr/flashlight

I personally just use silicone grease from home depot, but I've read great things about Super Lube.

u/Aezoc · 2 pointsr/hotas

I just used Super Lube on an old stick I'm tearing down and rebuilding. It works fine, although since I just did it I don't know yet how long it will last.

u/meh-guy · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Hi, I want to try to build my first custom mechanical keyboard soon. I think I have everything sorted out, but I want to know if I'm making any mistakes. This is my part list:

  • DZ65RGB kit, with brass plate. Also with the upgrade to GMK screw-in stabilizers you can select when buying it.
  • Zealios v2 62g. Everyone seems to like these, so I thought I'd try them. I chose the lightest weight because I want it to have faster actuation for gaming.
  • Keycaps? I haven't found a keycap set I really liked. I wanted DSA profile, but I couldn't find a PBT set with a color scheme I liked. If anyone has any suggestions, I'd like to hear them.
  • Super Lube mixed with other super lube to lube the switches. The most common lube is a bit too expensive, and I found someone who used this as a cheaper alternative. It seemed to work for them.
u/Unrated77 · 1 pointr/Tools
u/crj3012 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Thanks for everyone's input. I decided I definitely wanted to relube some of the stabs (especially the spacebar), so I figured while it was apart I might as well do the whole thing. I used this lube. I used a q-tip to apply the lube to the housings and I put just enough on each side so that you could see a greasy texture on the plastic(a very small amount in comparison to what was on the stabs). I am more than happy that I did it. The switches went from smooth as a baby's bottom to smoother than butter. You may think, "which is smoother", IMO the butter (but barely). The tactility has not changed at all, but I believe the board has gotten quieter. I am not sure if that change in sound will stay over time as the lube "wears in". As of right (this is the first thing I have typed since lubing) the switches feel the same in every way, but they're slightly more smooth. MY FINAL CONCLUSION: DON'T WAST YOUR TIME LUBING A NEW HHKB UNLESS YOU'RE BOARD. After taking the ~1.5 hours to do this, I would say that it wasn't worth my time to lube a brand new board. It changed for the better, but only slightly. If I were to buy another new HHKB, I would wait until the stabs were in need of desperate relubing before I did the whole board.

u/thebearjuden · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

This stuff is what I just grabbed. Will be here tomorrow.

u/RyanCacophony · 1 pointr/EliteDangerous

I used this

and they accidentally sent me an entire box of like 10 tubes (lol) but it worked.

I also found that I needed to loosen the tension plates a bit to et the resistance I wanted

u/RebootRevival · 1 pointr/consolerepair

Depends on the plastic. If you are referencing automotive lubes then yea dont use lithium grease for auto plastics. But for the plastics in analog sticks, it should be fine.
Personally I use this for my game stuff.

u/zombimuncha · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I use this stuff. It came highly rated by some prominent GH'ers, and it made the stabilized keys on my V80 sound, and feel, so good!

It's 10 quid right now but I only paid £4.50, so maybe shop around a little more?

u/JBTownsend · 1 pointr/hoggit

Save yourself $20 and grab this:

I lubed up my Hog 2 years ago and while I'm about due for a re-apply, it's still smoother than it was OOB. It has not eaten the plastic.

u/Metro-Redneck · 1 pointr/Tools

I use Super Lube in my old S-K ratchets. Made them a lot quieter and very smooth.

Honestly thought, I don't think it really makes much of a difference what grease you use, as long as it's not low viscosity so it doesn't seep out of the ratchet.

u/unicornloops · 1 pointr/prusa3d

And here’s super lube for 4 bucks (usually 8 ish). Since it’s an add on item get it while you get the other supplies.

Super Lube 21030 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2), 3 oz Tube

u/SirTimmyTimbit · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I'm getting my YMD96 kit delivered on Thursday. I want to clip and lube my stabilizers based on Kim's video.

I can find Dielectric Grease locally here in Toronto but I can't find any Finish Line Teflon Grease, or any other teflon grease for that matter.

Ordering 205g0 will take 6-10 days from Apex. Here are my other, immediate options:

u/gogosolar · 1 pointr/fountainpens

there are some videos here... about disassembly - get your self some silicone grease and put 'Small smear' of grease on the seal before you reassemble the converter. One small tube is basically a life-time supply - several brands to choose - just make sure it is a clear silicone grease Some pen companies sell it as well - example

u/Aesomatica · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

You can go with Techkeys, or 1UpKeyboards, or I typically will use Superlube (there are a couple different types of lubricant under that brand, so make sure you are getting the right one) The one I linked above has worked great for me.

Don't overdo it, look up a guide.

And remember to put your stabs in before you solder. I've screwed that up twice.

u/ListenBeforeSpeaking · 1 pointr/watercooling

Yes. If you outer chamfer the tube edge, it will prevent the tube edge from catching on the o-ring.

Additionally, you can lightly lube the o-ring (see Super Lube 21030 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2), 3 oz Tube Lubing will allow the tube to go in much easier while still maintaining a seal. You want the lightest coating you can do. I use a foam tip art brush applicator.)

u/artist508 · 1 pointr/airsoft

RC shock oil in the 30-50 weight range is dirt cheap.

You are thinking of Super Lube

u/AirsoftSniperz · 1 pointr/airsoft

No, but similar. It's [this one] ( There's a bit of grease still clinging to the gears, in a film, so I think i'm just applying too much

u/oFAILIXo · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I used this for my stabilizers: Super Lube 21030 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2), 3 oz Tube by Super Lube

If you can still reach the points where the wire is having contact with the oring (seems like you can) with a small paintbrush, you can still apply lube.

u/Sorrowind · 1 pointr/airsoft
u/jakeish_atelier · 1 pointr/ender3

This is what I use. Big improvement in prints.
Super Lube 21030 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2), 3 oz Tube

u/PaultheSloth · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

No idea why Dielectric Grease price gone so weird on Amazon. Have you considered looking at eBay?

u/GTechAirsoft · 1 pointr/airsoft

Super Lube 21030 Translucent White Color 3 oz. Automotive Accessories

u/yanfali · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

So use

u/galoisfieldnotes · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Without lube, they are smoother than other stabilizers I've tried. But with lube, I can't say I notice a big difference in actual use, so the Zeal stabilizers might not be worth the price premium. You should at least get genuine Cherry stabilizers and some lube, though.

u/absspaghetti · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Lithium grease is more for weather resistance and heavy duty. I wouldn't use anything heavier than the ptfe silicone.

Honestly though $6.82 and free shipping

That stuff is really good and not too heavy.

u/elahd · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I also have a self-built i3 that was loud when first built. I was able to cut down on noise by doing the following:

  1. Added rubber feet to all printer parts that touch whatever the printer is sitting on. My printer was turning my hollow IKEA table into giant soundboard.
  2. Added stepper motor vibration dampers (the type sold here) to X and Y steppers.
  3. Adjusted the current on my stepper motor drivers. Too high or too low will cause noise.
  4. Fiddled with bearing alignment on X and Y carriages. They're loud if even slightly out of alignment.
  5. Added a larger, slower spinning fan to my E3D hotend with an adapter found on Thingiverse.
  6. Cleaned my linear rods with rubbing alcohol and lubricated with PTFE lubricant. I used Finish Line Dry Teflon Lube, but any will do. (As an aside, you should also use synthetic grease on your threaded rods. Nothing to do with noise, but will help extend the life of your parts.)

    Also, periodically make sure that all nuts are tight. They tend to loosen from vibration allowing washers to rattle around.

    My next step will probably be using IGUS Drylin bearings in place of my ball bearing LM8UUs, but this plan is on hold while I consider switching to a CoreXY configuration.

    Hope this helps!
u/phlatcappr · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards
u/ChelseaManning · 1 pointr/Coffee

Sure -- i edited my comment to say REGREASE not DEGREASE for the valve... typo

this is the stuff i use

u/Breadland · 1 pointr/n64

Ah, I did manage to find the grease you mentioned.
It's this one, right?

Thanks for the advice!

u/240pMan · 1 pointr/retrogaming

Superlube Synthetic grease also works great, is safe to use on plastic and is non-toxic. You can find it here, It comes in various sizes. You can also purchase a 14oz cartridge of it for a few dollars more but I prefer to have it in a plastic tube.
Some people that have used white lithium grease have said that it can dry up a bit and clump up over time. I did a lot of research before deciding on the best grease to use for the N64 joystick.

u/Shensmobile · 0 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Don't bother with Krytox. Just get some Superlube grease and oil and lightly mix them to reach your desired thickness.



Your desired thickness is up to the user. I was previously using very thin mixture (maybe 80% oil, 20% grease) which was OK, but I tried 70% grease, 30% oil, and I found that I preferred the thicker mixture.