Reddit reviews TalentCell Rechargeable 12V 6000mAh/5V 12000mAh DC Output Lithium Ion Battery Pack for LED Strip and CCTV Camera, Portable Li-ion Battery Bank with Charger, Black (Multi-led Indicator)

Aside from the lead-acid battery (which I think is fine, just heavy), there is a pretty long list of crappiness:

• Made in China with the absolute cheapest components you can imagine. The circuit boards inside are thin, single-sided, and appear to have been assembled by chimpanzees.
  
• The multi-voltage outputs aren't regulated. It's literally a resistor network providing the different voltages. Good luck actually getting the stated 1A out of each of them. And as the 12V battery voltage gets lower, the 3V, 6V, and 9V outputs drop as well.
  
• The charging "circuitry" is completely stupid. The green light that is supposed to tell you that it's charged -- yeah, that's just an R-C circuit with a crazy-high impedance resistor that makes the LED slowly get brighter over about 8-10 hours. It actually has nothing at all to do with the voltage of the battery.
  
• The charger outputs 15V, and the charging port is wired directly to the battery, which is why you have to switch the unit to "charge" mode to charge the battery. There is no battery management or charger cut-off, so if you forget to unplug the charger, it will eventually destroy the battery.
  
• You can't charge the battery while in use.
  
• You can't charge the battery from a standard 12V car plug
  
  For the money, you're WAY better off buying something like this: https://www.amazon.com/TalentCell-Rechargeable-12000mAh-Multi-led-indicator/dp/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1465616058&sr=8-4&keywords=12v+lithium+ion -- that will run your mount for the entire night without breaking a sweat (assuming you don't have to run dew heaters or anything), costs 75% less, and is small and light enough that you could actually velcro it right to the mount.

The Spongeface kits are awesome, and require very little modification on the pack itself, have fun with it and take your time!
As for the battery you want something along the lines of this: https://www.amazon.com/TalentCell-Rechargeable-12000mAh-Multi-led-indicator/dp/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=talentcell+12v&qid=1562712683&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1
And some Barrel plugs to wire it with like these: https://www.amazon.com/43x2pcs-Connectors-Security-Lighting-MILAPEAK/dp/B072BXB2Y8/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=barrel+plug&qid=1562712775&s=gateway&sr=8-4


Also definitely check out GBFans.com! The forums are a really handy place to find info and parts of all kinds for Ghostbusters props of all types.

Personally didn't want wires everywhere, so I bought a cheap 12,000mAH 12v/5v USB power brick and velcro'd it to my sunvisor. It powers my dash cam for a whole week before needing charging.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The cells are going to be re-wraps of something random. See the Q/A section of https://www.amazon.com/ask/questions/asin/B00ME3ZH7C/5

The original rating is 12000mah, which makes the original cell capacity 2000mah each. It's also listed as 3A mac discharge current. I see no way to tell if that limit is in the controller or the cells themselves.

Also, the cells appear to be in a weird 2p3s layout, but I can't tell by the pictures.

Note - these are likely connected by spot welded metal straps. Getting them separated can be a challenge, and getting new cells in place will require more spot welding or soldering, as I don't see any spring loaded contacts to allow easy replacement.

IMHO, use the power bank as-is. When it stops doing what you want it to do, toss it in a Home Depot or Lowes batery recycling box.

I definitely think that sounds reasonable.

I have an s2, I mostly pump at the office too. I’ve seen a hack where you can use Velcro strips and this lithium battery to make the s2 portable - but I haven’t tried that myself. I did buy a car adapter which Ive used once when my mom watched the baby while we went on a date.

Searching around leads me to believe that the lighthouses won't draw much more than 1A@12V, but likely draw closer to 0.5A@12V most of the time. This decently reviewed, 6000mAh@12V battery on Amazon will get you probably about twelve hours of battery life.

"Add a fuses" (plugged into power window circuit, which only turns off after door is opened), fished wire over to passenger side where I crimped on a 2 USB port 5V DC/DC adapter (VHB taped behind glovebox, grounded locally to a ground point -- check with a multimeter!), and ran a lengthy USB cable under the plastic trim to the cameras. You should be able to force the wire behind rubber seals along the door frame and up the A pillar. You should also be able to hide the cable in the seam between the rear seats and the flooring/felt.

Tip: If the wire falls out from the crack between the window and plastic trim, wrap a few loops of tape around the wire. Its increased thickness keeps it hidden and not dangling in front of your passenger.

I know this wasn't clear. I can draw a picture if you wish. I also did the same with my GPS, so the singular 12V socket doesn't have a squid of USB cables going all over the car. Note that the suction cups don't stay on well on hot or cold days. I used VHB tape to attach a camera behind my rear view mirror (onto the screen printed sun shade dots no less).

DC-DC converter

Add-A-Fuses (Though look for ones for your specific fuse variety)

VHB tape (used to attach the DC/DC converter; fixes the suctioncups not adhering well)


If you're feeling adventurous, I wanted to try to make a UPS for it using one of these. (For public parking lots / when car isn't on)

Sure it does... plenty available, though not sure they have this specific model in CA: TalentCell Rechargeable 12V 6000mAh/5V 12000mAh DC Output Lithium Ion Battery Pack for LED Strip and CCTV Camera, Portable Li-ion Battery Bank with Charger, Black (Multi-led Indicator) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rHrVCbXV6V2H3

Most people use these without issue it seems:

https://www.amazon.com/TalentCell-Rechargeable-12000mAh-Multi-led-indicator/dp/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=pd_aw_lpo_267_bs_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=JS4M0C51KHPDBD7YT0X2

I couldn't find the exact one I had bought but here is one that looks identical from amazon and around the same price. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OB8QDbATX0Z44

Here is one of the LED strips that I use. When you open up the packaging hold your breath as you get a nice smell of the factory the thing came out of, and it is depressing. leaving it over night to air out.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ASHQQKI/ref=twister_B07GKRQT3K?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

The LED track I currently use for the frame

I purchased some good adhesive backed Velcro from Big Box store and cut everything to fit the bike frame for easy install and removal if a light strip goes out.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use this battery pack for the bike frames and the smaller ones they sell for the wheels.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There are some basic extender clips off amazon for the LEDs that "work" to connect the frame parts together but short of soldering all the extender clips are hit and miss, so find what works for you.

For the wheels you can do one of three things for installing.
1

Buy lots of strong adhesive ( a glue gun doesn't work that well and can melt/boil the glue tape the strips come on) and physically fit a square into a round hole. Glue the strips to the wheel frame so the lights are facing to the center but at an angle of the wheel. While the strips are bendable they are only bendable going up and down not side to side so parts of the strip start to bow-out but those spots can be forced into place with enough adhesive. The strips will start to separate from the wheel frame because physics dictates this can't work. It is what I did first to both wheels. The front side didn't work out but the back wheel has been holding together for the past couple of months.

2

Buy some clear flexible tubing from local box mart and some zip ties. Keep the protective adhesive tape on the LED strip so it can still slide into the tubing and use the zip ties to attach the tubing to the spokes. It will look like shit but it gets the job done. Also cut zip ties are sharp so it kind of turns the wheel into a shitty chainsaw.

3
buy a 3D printer to make clips to hold the LEDs to the spokes.

As for the power supply I temporary have some Velcro holding them to the wheel spokes, that I am trying to fix.

I'd just buy this or something similar.

You can get one that outputs 12v already - something like this: TaletCell

I've had plenty of success with the Windcamp kit. I have yet to run it down completely while doing SOTA, but I don't usually operate for more than an hour. That said, I'm running 5w SSB the whole time.

For more juice, and if I care a little bit less about weight, I'll run the internal rechargeable pack in combination with this lovely little pack. There's also the option of just removing the internal pack in this case, but I like having a "reserve" battery.

At some point, I'd like to have a BioEnno LiFePO4, perhaps 6-9 amp-hours or so. And I'd combine this with some sort of solar charging setup. But for now, the above seems to cover most of my needs.

I have a 5i and it will run all night on this. Plus the plug is correct for the mount. Literally just plug it in and you are set.

TalentCell Rechargeable 12V 6000mAh/5V 12000mAh DC Output Lithium Ion Battery Pack for LED Strip and CCTV Camera, Portable Li-ion Battery Bank with Charger, Black (Multi-led Indicator)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_a-5CDb6VKZY6E

I know using 18650s is trendy (and pretty easy if you use an amp board from Parts Express, they sell battery holders that plug right into the boards) but I’ve been a big fan of using a removable battery pack (with its own safety circuit), like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RNnoDbP0KDB6R


I built a mid sized boombox using these: https://reddit.com/r/diysound/comments/7ph3ck/update_pelican_550_budget_audiophile_boombox/

Using this type of battery makes it easy to swap batteries instead of recharging them inside the unit (I use industrial velcro to keep them secure inside the boombox), and like I said, they already have safety circuits. I like to put an externally visible volt meter on the power switch circuit so you can know how charged your battery is too.

One limitation is you’ll be limited by the amperage of the safety circuitry on the battery configuration you choose. With 18650s you can get a lot more wattage depending on how you configure them, with the battery I suggested you’re limited to 3 amps at 12 volts, so 3 x 12 = 36w total

I have a couple of computer fans I use on my dob and I use a battery like this:

https://www.amazon.com/TalentCell-Rechargeable-12000mAh-Multi-led-indicator/dp/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=lithium+battery+pack&qid=1566324764&s=gateway&sr=8-6

And I bought the DC connectors like this:

https://www.cnaweb.com/2-1mm-dc-male-power-connector-lead.aspx?gclid=CjwKCAjwtO7qBRBQEiwAl5WC20VrLjHXGBXkCLMt44xbVpt3Up1zdyBDOrTEufdV_-4oIaX_5QjTaxoCLSoQAvD_BwE

Wired the fan to the connector and it now plugs directly into the battery. I built a splitter with one in connection and 4 out connectors so I can plug multiple fans using only the one battery. The battery lasts several nights, charges easily and is fairly small and portable.

https://www.amazon.com/TalentCell-Rechargeable-12000mAh-Multi-led-indicator/dp/B00ME3ZH7C

edit : or this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H8F5HYJ/ref=emc_b_5_t

this one is quite cool:
12v + 9v + USB outputs... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01337QXMA/ref=emc_b_5_t?th=1

Parts list:

Amp:
http://amzn.com/B016I5F4WE

Battery:
http://amzn.com/B00ME3ZH7C

Speakers:
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R14X2/Rockford-Fosgate-Prime-R14X2.html

Subwoofer was from an Altec Lansing computer speaker set, and the box can be had at any local military surplus store.

Couple additional thoughts...

• I didn't see a PFD on the list? Looking at the fly-fishing vest I'm pretty sure that's not a PFD.
  
• Rod leashes -- I find a bit of 3mm accessory cord (or 550 paracord) and a couple knots serves just fine as a rod leash. Set up a running bowline on one end to drop over a cleat or rod holder, then double half hitch around the rod ahead of the reel foot.
  
• Sonar - make sure you know the difference between the Striker 4 and the Striker Plus 4, as well as the difference between the chirp-only transducer and ClearVu+Chirp version (4cv). Pricing on these is not all that far apart, and it may be worth a few more $$ to get the newest model (Plus) instead of the old version (non-Plus).
  
• Battery -- Have a look at lithium ion vs gel-cell. Striker Plus 4 has a stated current draw of 0.4A -- so a 6000mAH/6AH battery such as this one should last you all day. TalentCell Rechargeable 12V 6000mAh/5V 12000mAh DC Output Lithium Ion Battery Pack https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME3ZH7C
  
  • (for full disclosure, I've only been able to bench-test that battery with my EchoMap 73sv so far, hope to get on the water with it this weekend.)

Here is the image set of my first set of mods. http://imgur.com/a/XptY6

Since then I have moved to an external power supply, and switched from the internal mic to a throat mic and an external PA speaker. The fans I used were 30mm x 30mm computer fans being powered by this power cell.

This has been recommended, haven't purchased, though:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B98J67O/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_25?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2ND001GBQ4OXX

Also this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A24OIV2F0TL1K3

If you look at Page 116 for the TechRef Manual the front battery port has the following pinout:

1 +5V
5 +12V
7 GND
8 GND

So something like this could potentially power it while fitting in one of the disk bays like the modems usually did

Good day. I am in the final stages of completion of a Pelican Boom Box and have a question about charging this [Lithium Ion Battery](http://www.amazon.com/TalentCell-Rechargeable-12000mAh-Multi-led-indicator/dp/B00ME3ZH7C) I have linked. If you click through the images you can see that I presently have the battery wired to a terminal block that goes up to a switch and the charging port on the exterior of the case.
For charging I used an [SAE socket](http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0031BOTFC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s03) because that is what all the accessories on my motorcycle are powered by. I have replaced the end of the included wall charger for the LI battery (12V @ 1A) with the corresponding SAE plug. My goal is to be able to charge the case on AC from the wall plug, or DC from the bike or any other 12V outlet. When I spoke with a representative from the battery company they stated that 1A is the max amperage the battery should receive.

My questions are these;

1. Do they make a product that is an AC to DC converter that will allow DC input to pass through and become regulated to a specific amperage if that is what it was connected to. I'd prefer to have as little external of the box as possible. My desire is to have the wall AC/DC converter internal to the box so if I plug in an external power cable to AC through the SAE socket it will convert to DC @ 1A and if I were to plug in to a DC source it would regulate the incoming voltage to 12V @ 1A. If a product like this does not exist, can I add some sort of amperage regulation in line so when I'm powering off DC I don't blow my box up.
   
   
2. I was receiving a significant amount of interference from the bluetooth module and when hardwired to the 3.5mm jack from my cell phone. A ground loop isolator inline solved 90% of the noise, but I didn't know if there were any other tricks you had.
   
   
3. In order to extend the antenna of my bluetooth dongle I'm going to solder an additional antenna. I used (300/2450MHz)/4(1/4 wave)=.030cm. If I did that correctly, I would need a 30mm antenna to act as my 1/4 wave bluetooth antenna.
   
   
4. For audio switching between the Bluetooth module and the 3.5mm jack I ran each channel of each input to it's own section of a 4pdt relay, from a switch that also switches on power to the Bluetooth. The output of the relay goes to the amp and I jumped the output of both relay sides to have one cable. For the audio grounds I connected them all together for the two input and one output cable. All the audio works fine, I was unsure if this was the appropriate way to do it, or if there is something better.
   
   Over all this has been a fun project and I look forward to version 2.0.
   Build Link

This battery fits in the little elastic pocket and will run for hours on high.

TalentCell Rechargeable 12V 6000mAh/5V 12000mAh DC Output Lithium Ion Battery Pack for LED Strip and CCTV Camera, Portable Li-ion Battery Bank with Charger, Black (Multi-led Indicator) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pEJ2DbV5CXXJW

It does say they have a BMS so it’s got some protection for the cells. I’m not sure if it would be full capacity for that price. I recently tried out this power bank/12v battery

Used Velcro to attach it to the back of my project. I’ve used it for a week and it’s still half full and you can always peel it off the Velcro and use it for a usb power bank.

A friend uses this one with her Spectra and loves it. I never used it because I didn't know about it for baby #1 but may get it for baby $2 (whenever that happens). TalentCell Rechargeable 12V 6000mAh/5V 12000mAh DC Output Lithium Ion Battery Pack for LED Strip and CCTV Camera, Portable Li-ion Battery Bank with Charger, Black (Multi-led Indicator) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1UauDbEFXEF3G

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME3ZH7C/

It's been suggested, but the 5" Raspberry Pi screen would work, but has a resolution of 800x480. Another advantage is it can be powered by a USB battery bank via the micro USB.

Personally I'd go with something like this 7" 1024x600 and power it via a 12v/5v power bank and you'd be in it for $95, but that's because I'd like a slightly larger image.

When I used to install security cameras I used a Photography external output as it has an included battery and is pretty simple.

Capacity is directly correlated with weight and volume. Finding a smaller pack might indicate a fake capacity.

Would two smaller packs with a y-cable work for you?*

​

*Safety related note: make sure both powerbanks or full or both empty before connecting.

​

​

Why not just use a 12V rechargeable battery pack? Converting DC voltages can be done efficiently, but I'd be surprised if a $10 device was designed with efficiency in mind. Further, connecting devices in parallel to increase current supply is usually a tricky proposition.

https://www.amazon.com/TalentCell-Rechargeable-12000mAh-Multi-led-indicator/dp/B00ME3ZH7C

Yeah I've looked very carefully at those cheaper options as well, and wonder if this lower-capacity one (6000mAh @ 12v) would be enough to power a mount and a USB cooling fan.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ME3ZH7C

To piggy back off this, a cheaper solution might be to just buy a 12v portable battery pack and car port adapter to charge it, though a jump start battery and solar panels are definitely solid investments if you don't mind spending a bit more.

It looks like Grandmother requires 12V, 2A, DC

So, you want a lithium ion battery pack that outputs 12V and 2 amps or more.

https://www.amazon.com/TalentCell-Rechargeable-12000mAh-Multi-led-indicator/dp/B00ME3ZH7C/

^ that one is 6000mAh, so it’ll power Grandmother for something close to 3 hours. You can buy heavier batteries that have more capacity if you want. Be sure to check if your Moog requires center positive power (likely) or center negative. That’ll be indicated on your power supply.

Just remember we are random people on the internet, and this could void your warranty :)

Depends how much local storage you want, as well as fps/resolution.

I think an easy/cheap solution would be a Wyze Cam with a little battery bank that has a 5v output to use instead of the charger as a UPS, like this one. That'd give you upwards of 12 hours uptime when the power goes out.

Wyze advertises max capacity SD card as 32GB which will only give you 2-3 days of HD video storage, but there are plenty of reports of using a 64GB or 128GB formatted to exFAT. If you do supply your own larger SD card, just make sure you format it with a tool designed specifically for formatting SD cards.

These are the two batteries I was looking at so far

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=as_li_ss_tl?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00&linkCode=sl1&tag=reemedcoa-20&linkId=191c1678d31e4d67fd9a7cc984426bce

https://www.amazon.com/ExpertPower-EXP1270-Rechargeable-Lead-Battery/dp/B003S1RQ2S/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1496774277&sr=8-3&keywords=12v+lead+acid+battery

I'm trying to use the speaker enclosure as my case so the lithium might be a better option due to size.

Yes it is a for a Blacksys Ch-100b. The reason I was asking is because I am interested in wiring a 12v power bank to my dash cam. For example something like this, and I wasn't sure if I could connect the power bank directly with a 12v DC cable, or if I needed to splice that cable to include those fuses in between. Looks like I should include the fuses in between right?

Here is a diagram of how I plan to connect everything together. Does this look right?

Hi, check this out.

Seems like this would do the trick? https://www.amazon.com/TalentCell-Rechargeable-12000mAh-Multi-led-indicator/dp/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=asc_df_B00ME3ZH7C/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309836137809&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16566657222778969287&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004287&hvtargid=pla-403917176387&psc=1

From their website:

>Is there a battery pack that can be used instead of hard-wiring the harness to the motorcycle battery?
>
>There are several 12v battery pack options that can be purchased separately that will work with the ACH-1 connectors such as this option from Talentcell. Please read the specifications carefully and be sure to use a battery pack that does not exceed 13v and works with the ACH-1 connectors. The length of time these batteries will power the helmet in AC mode will vary, but you can expect the following approximate times:
>
>3000mAh battery should power the helmet for around 2 hours
>
>6000mAh battery should power it for 4 hours
>
>12000mAh should work for 6 hours.

Given the sizes and capacities of the modern lithium batteries, it should be possible to build one with a built in battery.

This is the link I posted before, I believe:
https://www.amazon.com/INSMA-8000mAh-Rechargeable-Circulation-discharge/dp/B01C46AW8W/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1474906337&sr=8-3&keywords=CCTV+battery

This is the other style, this one has a lower capacity, but they have them in higher capacities, as well.. Just a little more expensive:
https://www.amazon.com/TalentCell-Rechargeable-12000mAh-Multi-led-indicator/dp/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1474906337&sr=8-5&keywords=CCTV+battery

While not an eliminator, this instructable shows how to add a micro USB charging circuit to a UV-5r.



Or you could always just replace the car plug end of the eliminator with a 6mm barrel and run it off of one of those 5v/12v hybrid power banks