Reddit reviews Tekpower Mastech MS8268 Digital AC/DC Auto/Manual Range Digital Multimeter Meter

You laugh but I was super excited to get my cheap Chinese multimeter in the mail today. I will deffo use it for completing my lab work tonight.

Not worth $60 IMO. I have one of these guys and highly recommend it -
https://www.amazon.com/Mastech-MS8268-MS8261-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B000JQ4O2U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474646922&sr=8-1&keywords=mastech+8268

Looking through the reviews it seems like they send out the occasional lemon unit, but I've had mine for 3 years now on the same battery and it's awesome, especially for a $25 multimeter. I've tested it alongside a friend's $400 Fluke meter and it's very accurate. It also includes an attachment for reading transistor gains, which is especially helpful if you get into using germanium transistors. It's rated for 1000VDC so I use it when working on tube amps as well.

If you get into building pedals these are also worth picking up -
https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Multifunction-Transistor-Resistance-Inductance/dp/B00NKY3M1W/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1474647579&sr=8-13

It will measure inductance & and it's invaluable for getting quick gains and pinouts for transistors. It's not a substitute for a meter but it makes stuff like identifying a mystery transistor or matching FETs a breeze.

You can't go wrong with a fluke, it will give you years of service.

I got a cheapie mastech on amazon ($25) and I have been abusing the crap out of it for some time now with no ill effects.

At 5 times the price ... a fluke would still probably be worth it.

I purchased a Mastech Multimeter about 6 years ago for about 25 dollars, and it's working just fine for me. Yes, it doesn't have the name as a Fluke, but it works just fine for everyday purposes. Unless you really need the accuracy, a Mastech meter will work fine, especially as a student. This is the model I purchased. 25 dollars, and has everything you will need.

Those kits are OK, but I might suggest getting yourself some boards like these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CGV6TZG

And a basic component kit such as this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01EROKLBC

With those you can practice all you want and come up with your own configurations. Start with getting an LED to light up and go from there.

For a cheap multimeter I like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000JQ4O2U

Personal favorite cheap dmm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JQ4O2U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_scIuyb89GBR67

A bigger breadboard might be nice as well

Do you have a multimeter to test AC voltage? If you're up for and you're just careful not short anything while poking around. A cheap multimeter is all you'll need to maybe find the fault location. Start at the panel and check the incoming voltage from the meter and go from there.

Something like this: $24 - www.amazon.com/Mastech-Manual-Digital-Multimeter-MS8268/dp/B000JQ4O2U

I'd buy a fluke if I could justify it... but i can't so i bought this https://www.amazon.com/Mastech-MS8268-MS8261-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B000JQ4O2U/ . Its a good balance of good, cheap, and tough.

You might also want to look at the fluke 12E. Its made for the chinese market but makes it way over here. here is a video from AvE talking about it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rJm9iCha-jM

Your link has a link to the DC/DC converter section of the manual. It's under the seat, and the wires are labeled: “enable” turns on the converter, “in” is high voltage, “out” is 12 volts.

You'll need a multimeter to read the voltages on the wires and connectors.

I actually just bought one of these multimeters that arrived today and I'm loving it, so much. It's only $30 and works amazingly well. It's full-featured and includes a helpful little socket with holes that you can put an electronic component (i.e a resistor) into so you don't have to wrestle with the test leads. I'd highly recommend it.

I picked up this one recently. I did a few hours of research and came to the conclusion that this is a good mid-range meter.

Of course, I'm not using it for anything that could kill me (mostly just arduino and rpi projects), and once I have a need for something better, I'll probably go for the Fluke.

I can recommend this $25 Mastech for hobby usage. I picked one up five years ago and it's still going great.

> http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B000JQ4O2U/afromods-20 I hear this one is good.

Of the one's you posted, this is the only one which is both auto-ranging and has a fused high-current port. It also has an audible warning when the probes are in the wrong jacks. For $25 it looks like a good value.

Get a multimeter. If you buy from the following link, you support an excellent Youtube channel as well:

http://astore.amazon.com/afromods-20/detail/B000JQ4O2U/190-8350356-1062150

would something like this or this be able to tell me?

flukes are the best, but you don't need that. a cheap one at lowes should work fine if you want something a bit better, i recommend this one:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JQ4O2U/ref=pe_175190_21431760_cs_sce_dp_2

Digital multimeter... here's a couple decent looking ones that should do most of what you want.

Of course Fluke makes the best, but they certainly charge for it.

I have a Craftsman Professional myself and it's perfectly fine.

So it sounds like the thing to do would be to fix the broken speaker wire. There's a number of ways to do that. I'll list them in decreasing difficulty, and also decreasing quality of fix.

You could:

• Run entirely new wire from the factory wiring harness to the speaker in the door.
  
• Find the break and run new wire from the break to the speaker.
  
• Find the break and just splice in a new bit of wire.
  
  The DMM will come in handy for a lot of things (checking grounds, seeing if your RTO is working, checking fuses, verifying continuity of wires - which you're doing here). If you get a good one now, it'll last you years (I've had mine for more than 10 years and I use it at least a couple times a month for all sorts of automotive and household things!).