Reddit reviews TEKTON Long Arm Ball End Hex Key Wrench Set, 13Piece (1.27-10 mm) | 25272

Some of the less intuitive acccessories I've found helpful:

• Foam/Soft padding for under printer. This helps reduce the vibrations from the printer traveling into the surface it's sitting on and producing additional noise (though the i3 MK3 is supposed to be remarkably quiet.) I use a rubber paver, but I've seen foam mats or other soft-cell products.
  
• If your table is shaky, a paving stone can also help eliminate wobble and vibrations
  
• I didn't plan to have an enclosure since I wasn't interested in ABS, but even my PLA prints had a little bit of warping and pulling off the bed. Adding a casual enclosure made of plastic sheeting did wonders. (Not my writeup, but same idea. I used 6-mil leftover from work for durability.)
  
• I wasn't originally comfortable leaving the printer home alone printing, but even a moderately-size print takes most of a day, so I added a Wyze IP Camera, a TP-Link Internet-Controlled Outlet, and a smoke-detector to my setup. Now I can monitor the printer from anywhere, and at the very least kill power if it looks like things are going awry. An Octoprint setup would be more snazzy.
  
  Here's the tools I use most frequently in 3d printing and assembly - I suspect you'll have most of these from modelling work:
  
  
• Digital Calipers for measuring existing objects and calibrating printer.
  
• Putty Knife for removing prints from bed.
  
• Metric Hex Key Set with Ball Ends for making adjustments to printer/adding parts
  
• #1/#2 Philips head screwdriver
  
• Precision Philip Screwdriver
  
• Assorted M3 Hardware. (I standardized on M3, you could choose another size or diversify). I recommend some heat-fit threaded inserts at any size.
  
• Cheapie Rotary Tool with cutoff wheel, sanding/buffing attachments, engraving bit.
  
• Needle Files
  
• Sandpaper - 120, 220, 400 grit.
  
• Superglue/CA Glue
  
• Needle-nose Pliers, nice and fine tip
  
• Flush Cutters, I'm partial to the actual Hakkos.

Something like this? https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-Wrench-Metric-13-Piece-25272/dp/B00I5THFR4/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=metric+allen+wrenches&qid=1556734713&s=gateway&sr=8-3

If the bike you have fits you and hasn't been terribly abused it might be worth just keeping it. 550 is going to buy another entry level-ish bike. $200 in tools and parts can fix most issues, and you can keep up on your own maintenance from then on.

A 9 speed chain and chain tool. 30 bucks

[Brake and Shifter Cables and housing ]
(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXV23A7/) and cable cutter $50

9 speed cassette HG400 and Lockring tool $35

Cone Wrenches 13/14 13/15 15/16 17/18 $20 for repacking hub grease $11

allen wrenches $11

None of this is very difficult to do if you watch a youtube or 2. The hardest part is getting the derailleurs working again, and that isn't really that bad.

I've been using this set for years now on planes, quads, 3d printers, and all kinds of stuff. None of them are stripped. Even the smallest size is still good as new.


https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-25272-13-pc-Wrench-Metric/dp/B00I5THFR4/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1485439142&sr=1-1&keywords=tekton+metric+hex


I have a Fluke 112 but only because the company I worked for replaced them and gave the old ones away. It is fantastic to have one, but I think they are like $150+ new. Totally not needed. I've had bad luck with the super cheap/free ebay and harbor freight specials. I would consider stepping up to the ~$50 price range. I use the continuity beeper like 95% of the time I pick up the tool, so make sure it has a beeper/buzzer.

I just get whatever is cheap from home depot/hardware store/target/etc.

But if you want specific kits or multitools, try:

https://shop.animalbikes.com/hard-goods/tools/kotulak-multi-tool.html on sale makes it more worth it otherwise pretty expensive

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-Long-Wrench-13-Piece-25262/dp/B00I5THFR4/

https://www.amazon.com/40-Pieces-EPAuto-Reversible-Ratchet/dp/B01LZEMYOD/

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-23003-8-Inch-Adjustable-Wrench/dp/B00FFUPRXK/

Like I said, I don't like to buy "bike tools". Unless you really feel the need to get some compact multi tool for "reasons". I like to buy tool sets for the house so I have tools. Then take what I need for the bike with me in a backpack.

Those multi tools aren't gonna feel comfortable in your pocket anyway. Have a backpack. Have everything you need in it. And if you drive to a spot it stays in your car or if you're riding you carry it around but since you're already carrying a pack it's not much different if it's individual tools or a singular piece.

Buy

($6)Wires:For the MOFSET mod

($1o)MOFSET

($6)Wire spades:For the MOFSET mod

($8)Assorted M3 Bolts:You need some for a few mods and for the bolts you will inevitably strip on this cheap wonderful machine

($13)Longer assorted M3 Bolts:For a few mods

($9)M4 Bolts:For one of the mods

($9)Metric allen wrench set:Had to order one of these since metric tools aren’t common round these parts

(~$20) PLA of preferred choice- You’ll run out of the sample bit quick so go ahead and order a roll or two to be prepared. You will note some upgrades require ABS so a small spool of that to your order will also help.

($6)M3 Lock nuts:Critically needed for a simple mod

($10)Threaded rod and nuts:Please note that this item seemed difficult to find online. I recommend going to your local hardware store and getting two 5/16” rods of at least 16” in length. They should have an assortment of threaded rod in various lengths available. Also note that the pitch of the threading matches the nuts you buy. Further instructions regarding this can be seen in Azza’s Z-Axis braces below.)

($6)9mm Wrench for the nozzle: Don’t wait for your first clog, go ahead and have this on hand to remove/change the nozzle. Note to only tighten/loosen the nozzle when heated.



Below is the order of printable upgrades I recommend but I suggest you mix in a few other prints along the way because this is a hobby after all and you should be having fun. It helps to have your quality as tuned in as much as possible for some of these so be patient and keep trying if you need to.

Print

Spool holder- temporary : Until you can mount your spool on top of the enclosure or any other personal preference.

Belt tensioner- print x2

Z-brace

Shielded stop button

Cable relocator : It’s a pain, but if you spend the time to do this and turn your extruder motor 90 degrees then you can get the full Z height without ruining your cables. It does involve opening all the cables to the PSU and feeding a few extra inches back through the cable chains.

Cable shroud : Looks nice if you do the cable relocator.


The following need to be printed in ABS:

M3 Bed Nut retainer: 10/10 upgrade. I know they look worse than the nice metal stock ones, but these help keep your bed level longer.

CiiCooler

Glass bed Holder


Now that the first major round of printed upgrades is done it’s time to shift to a few more supplies to pick up to really fine tune the machine.


Buy

($5)Radial fan: For CiiCooler

($5)Glue sticksThis and a glass bed is magic

($25)Borosilicate glass 8” x 8”

($26)Y-Carriage plate upgrade: This has been a nice upgrade as I now only need to relevel the bed every couple weeks instead of every print. Check out this guide for a ‘how to’ as well as a free upgrade by shifting your Y pulley over.

($15)rechargeable dehumidifier: For keeping in the bin with your opened filaments

($9)Extruder gears: Might be able to hold off on these, but will need eventually. If for some reason you have a Maker Select with metal X-axis blocks (V1 and V2, but not V2.1) then this is a must. You can follow this guide for a how to.

($28)Metal extruder plate and lever: Not needed, but nice.

($14)Noctua 40mm fan: Not needed, but makes the printer a lot quitter. A LOT quieter.

($50)MicroSwiss All Metal Hot End: The destruction of my PTFE tube by this point pushed me to doing this upgrade. If needed you can follow this guide for replacement. Remember to tighten/loosen when the nozzle its hot.

($6)Ceramic cotton: Tore off the stock one when replacing for the all metal hot end by accident. At least its thicker than stock

Now that the printer is in its final form, its time for the enclosure which is a stacked Ikea Lack hack.

Print

Spool holder

Pi Case

120mm fan cover

Fan grill

120mm fan PSU modification: I edited this to fit upside down since my PSU is mounted on the underside. This was nice since I blew the 40mm fan anyways so it made everything a lot quieter than before.

IKEA Lack filament guide

Webcam holder: This is one I designed specifically for the webcam I happen to have lying around. The camera mount piece can be changed out no problem though for what ever webcam you have or buy. The SketchUp file is included on Thingiverse for such purpose.

Buy

($20)2x Ikea Lack: Luckily there is one right down the street from me. I am located in North America though, so we do not have the STUVA, if you live literally anywhere else you may check in to this as an alternative.

($80)Plexi glass for enclosure: Could be cheaper alternatives, but it looks cool

($9)Foam pads for feet

($42)Raspberry Pi3: For OctoPrint. I also suggest using a different USB cable than the stock one provided by Monoprice or you will have issues.

($9)2x 120mm fans: Used for the power supply cooling and enclosure

($6)Rocker Switches so that the enclosure fan can be on for PLA, but off for ABS

($15)Dimmable LED lights

($10)8mm LED light connectors


Total:
$250 printer + $452 upgrades/parts + ~$80 PLA/ABS to date

Try a metric style hex key like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I5THFR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1j5rDb2P4GM5C