Reddit reviews Testors 3507AT Liquid Cement for Plastic Models, 1-Ounce

You wanna be the best fiance ever u/vickicamfield?

Get him one of these.

His neck will thank you, his hands will thank you, his precision will thank you. Probably the best purchase I've ever made for minis. You can snag em at most hobby shops.

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Bonus, if he wants to do detail work I recommend a cheap set of reading glasses. He won't have to strain his eyes as much and they are a nice magnifying glass....es... you get the point lol.

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PS: I recommend bright white light for better color recognition and more akin to natural light.

Edit: Also if he is thinning with water, get this. I find it works better than water and mixes with metallics!

Edit 2: For brush care, dont forget to get some brush cleaner and conditioner. Maybe a wet palette for longer paint sessions. For brushes, winsor and newton are always a solid choice.

Edit 3: Folks are asking for essentials. Here is a short list:Vallejo thinner
Masters brush conditioner
Wet palette
Kolinsky brushes
Mini holder
Liquid cement for plastics
Vallejo paints
Citadel paints
Warhammer TV
Cheap airbrush for prime/basecoat

Toothpick, perhaps?

I also would recommend the Testors Plastic Cement in the future. It has a little proboscis that is perfect for dabbing on just a little bit of glue right where you want it.

If you can't grasp things with fingertips, get tweezers. Not small ones like hair tweezers but something like these or better yet, locking tweezers.

Glue bottle with a tip will help you have precise control and better reach. If that bottle is too small, Testor makes a larger one. Sprue cutter and parts holder. The flush cutters really help with reducing the amount of sprue mount clean up.

The walls are 0.06" Polystyrene sheets from Amazon. (Basically 1/16", so two sheets are about 1/8" Thick)

The corner braces are Styrene Angles, normally used in architecture models.

https://www.amazon.com/Evergreen-Scale-Models-EGP297-Angle/dp/B0006O5GAO/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=styrene+angle&qid=1550579145&s=gateway&sr=8-2

And this glue welds styrene together:
https://www.amazon.com/Testors-3507AT-Liquid-Plastic-1-Ounce/dp/B00005CA7S/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=testors+glue&qid=1550579495&s=gateway&sr=8-3

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I use this and it is great. https://www.amazon.com/Testors-3507AT-Liquid-Plastic-1-Ounce/dp/B00005CA7S/ref=lp_2236128011_1_5?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1500526695&sr=1-5

I'm certainly no expert on miniature assembly but have done a handful of KDM stuff and have had the best success with Testors Plastic Cement (Testors 3507AT Liquid Cement for Plastic Models, 1-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005CA7S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Le3RBbCSM9RR0)

That said, on two models I've done (Antelope and an armor build) there was a bit of difficulty either getting the model to stand correctly (former) or attaching a piece (latter).

If you have a hobby drill and the two joining pieces are large enough (depends on your drill bits) you can drill a small hole that will accept a paper clip or other pliable metal item, insert it in the drilled holes and apply glue. It works GREAT!

I'd recommend some plastic glue like this. It 'melts' the plastic together, so you get a fast, secure bond. And I'm a fan of the dispenser, as well

Lots of options and there's no one right answer to any of your questions.

I have a local hobby shop I try and support, because if I need a paint or tool, or just want to hang out and paw through model kits, they're 20 minutes down the road. You can also buy from Amazon or other online retailers.

Reddit and modelling websites can be a great help, but there is also the International Plastic Modelers Society, list of organizations by country here. IPMS USA, for example, has a page that lists clubs by state. Checking in with a local club is a good way to see sizes of kits, talk techniques, etc.

With regards to scale, I work in different scales. I would love to have all of my airplanes in 1/32 scale, but I don't have the room, so I compromise a bit. The vast majority of my airplanes are in 1/48th scale, but larger planes are often in 1/144 (airliners, for example). So I have consistent scales and can still compare sizes or create common bases (four of my fighters are on a shelf that has concrete sections printed up and with a jeep and fire extinguisher for fun).

Basic supplies, I would say a hobby knife (aka brand name Xacto, but others sell similar designs) and liquid cement of some variety are the bare minimums. There is thick liquid cement like the cheap tube glue (ummm don't buy that one, you can get it cheaper even at a local hobby shop) to the better squeeze bottle with precision applicator, but also thin cement that one paints on to joined parts. I think each works better for different purposes, but typically use more of the thin cement.

There are more tools in the wiki and toolbox link.

Is it in a tube like toothpaste, but smaller? Viscous gel? If so, id recommend getting another type - either a brush-on that comes in a glass bottle, or one that has a small metal applicatir tube. My favorites are testors in the black bottle, and games workshop.

Testors:
https://www.amazon.com/Testors-3507AT-Liquid-Plastic-1-Ounce/dp/B00005CA7S

Internet shopping is great for that now. Don't have to find the hobby shop with the right stuff anymore.
https://www.amazon.ca/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=tamyia+glue

The first two listings are fantastic.

I've had good results from this one as well

From a quick Google search, it looks like they are the typical plastic that is used in most wargames. You'll want a pair of small clippers to take the pieces off the sprue, a hobby knife to scrape off the mold lines (easier to do before assembly), and plastic cement (I recommend Testor's Precision cement). Some models may be easier to paint in pieces as well (like guys on bikes or with shields).
You'll also be able to find lots of help and advice over at /r/minipainting.

Since you have some modeling experience you probably know how to remove sprue gate and mold lines, but on miniatures it is worth taking that extra effort to prep the model before painting to make sure it is nice and smooth.

I have not used poly cement, but I would recommend having 2 types of glue handy, some super glue which I bought at my FLGS, and some plastic glue also bought at FLGS.

Another great item to have is some brush cleaner, I recommend masters brush cleaner. It is great for keeping your brushes in shape longer and helping them keep a point.

genuinely what you should do is this:

Get a set of these(they come with conversion parts so you can mix/match old style and new style kits parts into places they don't normally go) http://www.ebay.com/itm/131333747043?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Also invest in some plastic cement so you can literally fuse pieces together where you need to(it melts and re-solidifies plastic to create a "weld") http://www.amazon.com/Testors-3507AT-Liquid-Plastic-1-Ounce/dp/B00005CA7S/ref=sr_1_6?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1419113907&sr=1-6&keywords=plastic+cement

From this point I'd say get a Build Burning Gundam as your base model(it's one of the newest kits out and supposedly some kind of superkit as far as articulation and balance go) http://amzn.com/B00M1APMU0

Then I'd recommend whatever flavor of Shinlong from Wing is your favorite and a no-grade 1/144 Dragon Gundam from G Gundam http://youtu.be/OczGImiNImo

http://amzn.com/B00067YYA4

No. You shouldn't need to pin anything. However, you need to use plastic cement, not glue. I use this.

They shouldn't be fragile at all. Styrene cement literally melts and welds the joint together, it doesn't just glue it together. The end result should literally be a solid piece of plastic as strong as the original.

Thanks for the tip, I see several options from them, I like that they are non toxic because the previous one I was looking at seemed pretty hazardous, hah.

Clear Parts Cement

Liquid Cement