Reddit Reddit reviews Testors Spray Lacquer 3oz, Clear Coat

We found 45 Reddit comments about Testors Spray Lacquer 3oz, Clear Coat. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Spray Paint
Household Paint & Primer
Paint, Wall Treatments & Supplies
Tools & Home Improvement
Testors Spray Lacquer 3oz, Clear Coat
For use on many surfacesFinely ground pigments give superb flow and coveragelead free, fast-drying, and easy to applyContains one aerosol can with 3oz (85g) of enamel paintAvailable in a variety of colors
Check price on Amazon

45 Reddit comments about Testors Spray Lacquer 3oz, Clear Coat:

u/CheshireM · 9 pointsr/minipainting

These are really excellent for first minis, there's a ton you did right:

  • Neat and clean areas of color
  • Good shading
  • Edge-highlighting of consistent width
  • Some fun technical effects like blood
  • Actually good eyes (seriously this is super difficult to do well)

    It looks like you used some sort of gloss varnish on them, and if I were to offer one piece of advice, it would be to ditch the gloss and use a matte finish like Testor's Dullcote. You can even spray these guys with a matte varnish to tone down their current glossiness.
u/The__Duck · 5 pointsr/Warmachine

One layer of this gloss finish:

Then two layers of this:

After that your paint will never chip and there should be no shine. You could probably use just dull coat but this has been my post painting ritual for a long time now.

u/ajree210 · 4 pointsr/Warhammer40k

Testors Dulcote Spray, little blue spray can, can get it on amazon. Haven’t used another matte spray since!

u/fluxual · 4 pointsr/Gunpla

Testors Spray Lacquer 3oz, Clear Coat

I luckily have a local shop that's a bit cheaper than this but this is good stuff.

u/fxakira · 4 pointsr/Gunpla
  1. for Primer, I have been using the Tamiya Fine Gray spray can. This works great, as the particles are smaller than hardware store or craft store primers and preserve the details of the pieces. Other hobby primers work well too, such as the Mr. Surfacer line but I personally have not used those. Refer to this primer guide for which color you should choose for priming.
  2. You typically use a gloss black coat if you intend to bring out shiny / glossy layer of the paint on top. If your end game is a flat / matte topcoat, I would say this step is unnecessary. I have NOT observed a significant difference in color between a build with glossy black base and gold top paint layer versus. just a gold top paint layer when I matte coat it at the end.
  3. Your ordering is CORRECT. For the number of layers, my go to procedure:
  • Prime in 2 coats. I do a flash coat (quick spray bidirectional, there will be missing spots). Wait for 15 minutes and come back to do a 2nd coat to completely fill in. Wait a whole day.
  • Spray desired paint layer, 2 coats. Same idea as the primer.
  • Glossy coat to preserve the paint. I handbrush Pledge / Future Finish on and it works, but I am very patience with this step as I can overcoat and this will fill in the panel line. One thin coat is sufficient
  • Decal hell. Every kit, every time.
  • I top coat with Krylon Matte Finish. You can use the hobby stuffs like Testors Dullcote or Tamiya Flat Clear or Mr. Hobby Top Coat Flat, but I am a student with a part time job and these damn cans are damn expensive. The Krylon works sufficiently for me, I just have to spray it more carefully than the hobby ones.

    Good luck!
u/Cyntax3rr0r · 3 pointsr/minipainting

This video uses Army Painter's Quickshade, which also gives the muddy look you're after. While different from a wash, the method is the same if you're treating the entire mini with nuln oil. Keep the shadow areas dark and whisk away shade on the highlighted areas. Or simply darken the areas selectively with the wash.

I'd recommend Testor's Dullcote for a good spray matte varnish. You can find it at most big box and craft stores also.

u/89SuperJ · 3 pointsr/Warhammer


Edit: make sure you get the right finish i.e. Gloss/Flat

u/corejh · 3 pointsr/minipainting

I agree they're definitely too glossy. I've been using Mod Podge Clear Acrylic Matte Sealer, but it doesn't seem to go on matte at all. Maybe I need a few more passes? I also ordered a can of Testor's Spray Lacquer because that's what I saw Sorastro using in some of his guides. Any other recommendations for products that would give me a better matte finish?

Funny you pointed out the black and red, those were the only colors I used straight from the bottle and didn't mix with anything. I'll definitely try to thin them out next time.

Thanks for the critique!

u/patrick_dev · 3 pointsr/Gloomhaven

Second-ing everything that has been said so far. Primer first, paint it, matte varnish to protect. Personally have been using Testor's Dullcote for years with great success.

If you didn't prime first, I would suggest taking the paint off (stripping) and repainting. If you put the varnish on top with no primer underneath, your paint will still chip off in chunks (got greedy, tried it, didn't end well).

u/r0wo1 · 3 pointsr/boardgames

After you finish the mini (for example after using a wash, which I highly recommend) matting your miniature will seal in the paint and give it really strong protection from chipping.

I use two light layers of Krylon Matte Finish followed by one light coat of Testors Dullcote both of which you can find at Michaels (and probably Hobby Lobby). It feels slightly like overkill, but you would have a hard time chipping the paint after both.

u/SifuSeafood · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Materials you need

Duck Brand Silver Mirror tape

Matte finish spray paint. I had left over Dullcote. I would suggest lacquer based spray paint as it has high durability and enamel being next best option.

Not really required. Adhesion promoter from automotive retailer (Autozone/ O'reilly's, NAPA, etc)
I'd suggest applying adhesion promoter primer + lacquer/enamel based clear coat for the best results. I kind of regret skipping the primer as my top coat has already been scraped.

I sprayed the
entire* case. I didn't like the gloss finish.

Spray multiple light coats and be patient. Don't let anything pool and/or run.

As for the tape, just cut to size and stick it on the bottom. I covered like 90%. You can probably be meticulous and cover more than I did. Now that I write this, maybe sticking some on the bottom of the PCB will help as well. Just make sure not to cover the RGB lights, of course.

u/Komm · 3 pointsr/modelmakers

Yep! Also, for the record, Future floor polish is an amaaaaaaaaazing clear coat paint if you have an airbrush.

u/BrickInHead · 3 pointsr/minipainting

I had the exact same problem when I started painting - I use basic Walmart acrylics, used the testors brush on, and it peeled off a ton of paint. After looking around I saw a bunch of suggestions for Testors Spray Dull Coat, tried it out, and works wonders. Haven't had a problem with peeling paint since. I know a lot of people recommend using gloss coat first for strength and then brushing on matte. That's next on my list to try.

u/kingvortigern · 2 pointsr/minipainting

A few questions, followed by some suggestions:

Do you use your Citadel paint right out of the bottle? You might lose some of that gloss if you dilute your paint, which is something nearly all good painters recommend. I used the Citadel paints right out of the bottle for years, without knowing that. Thin the paint to the consistency of milk, more or less.

Yes, you should use a sealer, absolutely. Yes it does protect the final finish, but judicious use of it can help in other ways. But a matte sealer is critical. You can spray the entire finished piece with matte sealer, but that can ruin some of your metallic finishes. What I sometimes do is finish the piece, spray the entire thing with one or two LIGHT coats (always) of matte sealer. Then if you have any pieces of armor, or glass, or anything that should be shiny, you can then apply gloss or satin sealer with a brush to those areas to those areas only to bring the shine back. But truly, the matte brush on sealer, (or matte paints) really adds to the "realism" of the piece.

Also get some "flow-aid" and add a drop to your shades and washes. It helps break up the surface tension and helps the paint move around into the crevices. Try

For an excellent spray matte sealer try this one. Been around for years and still one of the best flat finishes out there:

Finally, go to CMON and download this painting guide if you've got an extra 10 bucks laying around. Very good guide, even for the pro.

And don't forget to visit Sign up for his newsletter, he sends out free tutorials every week. Also check out his Youtube channel.

Keep it up, nice work!

u/CivilC · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

If you're painting a model kit, try your best to acquire paints and topcoats specifically for plastic/plastic models. If you're in the US, Testors, Tamiya, and even Krylon can work as good flat coats and each brand has a respective gloss and semigloss spray.

u/dex206 · 2 pointsr/PrintedMinis

After I paint any mini, I varnish it with gloss varnish, and then, most importantly spray the entire thing with Testor's Dulcote. It makes everything beautifully matte.

u/CommonSensai · 2 pointsr/minipainting

Those are great tips! I sprayed holding it slightly far away as I didn't want to drown out the detail. I don't think I started the spray off to the side though.

Regarding salvage, would the tackiness go away after I apply a coat of lacquer? I bought this,

Some other folks here are saying just paint over them. I have no hesitation about doing so but I really don't want them to be tacky forever.

u/Deoxysprime · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

I'm based out of the US so I don't know what brands are available to you. I've used two brands:

Krylon: I bought a big can like this from a local hardware store for about 3 USD. It does an okay job. It's a sort of flat finish but there's still a touch of shine to it. For bulk spraying it seems like a good deal but it's not the most beautiful finish. I assume most of the clear flat/matte sprays will be roughly this quality. One of these has lasted me through like 4 or 5 HG kits so far.

Testors: I bought some of this from a local hobby shop for about 5 USD per can. It's a lot less spray for a bit more money but the finish on this was great. One of these seems to do one or two HG kits.

u/Beadpool · 2 pointsr/MarvelLegends
  1. It’s going to be hard to match skin tones. You’ll just have to experiment. Maybe watch some videos on glazing and wet blending. Just a couple techniques that might help get two close colors to transition a bit more seamlessly.

  2. Number of layers depends on how thin the paints are and which colors you’re painting over. When starting, it’s always best to take it slow. If the paint looks good enough to cover in one layer, it’s most likely not thinned enough. Don’t rush it. Let the paint dry thoroughly before applying an additional coat.

    Depends if you want a glossier or dull finish, but something like this should be fine. Read reviews & directions. Shake well. Ventilate. Start spraying away from figure, then sweep over figure. Light coats and let dry THOROUGHLY before thinking about another layer. Mess this part up and it’s hard to go back.

    Hope this helps!
u/MohnJaddenPowers · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

If you want markers for panel lining, I posted in another thread - these are all you'll probably ever need:

They clean up wonderfully. A Q-tip dipped in 91% isopropyl alcohol will swipe off any pigment that shouldn't be somewhere.

I've used nothing but Alclad flat and matte topcoat, but if you don't have an airbrush, Testor's Dullcote is an industry standard:

u/_hei · 2 pointsr/Warhammer40k

It does. This is the one I use, although I'm not sure if there are others.

It offers some level of protection, and I've only had one mishap (too humid). 9/10 would recommend. IMO the only problem is that the cans are too small.

u/sharkeyx · 2 pointsr/Tyranids

Testor's dull coat, after you're done painting and before you put any flock/grass/ w/e down (as it will weight it down and can look bad), just spray them like you would with priming them (short bursts from a distance). Let that set overnight and make sure to do this outside and/or in a well ventilated area as it has a strong odor that will linger. If you have to do it outside, leave them outside for at least half an hour and you'll be good to bring them in with minimal odor to finish curing.


After that you can put down any grass/flock on the base.


One caveat, if you have a lot of metallics on your guys this will be dulling them (this is matte after all), so gotta weigh durability with shinyness for if you want to varnish them. I usually still do for miniature games like this, as things bump a lot over time and are handled a bunch. The metallics are still metallics and show, just not as nicely as they did before varnish.

u/Rdddss · 1 pointr/Gunpla
u/theheavilyarmedclown · 1 pointr/minipainting

I use this and it dries matte.

u/ShinReska · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Thank you! The final coat was a Testors Spray Lacquer, Dull Coat. Amazon Link

u/radiokungfu · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Hi, would this work as topcoat?

u/Kelevradog · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Ok so is this an enamell or a lacquer it says both on the page? And will this make gundam panel markers run?

u/dodomir23 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

unfortunately i live in somewhat of a countryside and need everything shipped...

this looks a lot more reasonable but I've seen some people saying it melts your gunpla or something...? have you had any experience with this one?


nevermind, this looks like a very good alternative

u/Cursed989 · 1 pointr/minipainting

Did you use Army Apinter Quickshade? Maybe a little lighter with it next time. Otherwise I'd say hit them with some matte varnish to lower that gloss a little and you're good.

I recommend this...

u/tug_boat_captain · 1 pointr/minipainting

I use Vallejo brush on primer, but I use the grey color. Here is a link. It's a debate on here whether or not their "White Primer" is actually primer, or if it's just the color of their paint. I've heard different things from different people but never used it myself. Also, white tends to be a hard color to get even coverage with, so that might be your problem as well.

As far as your glossy problem, you could always hit your minis with some Testors Aerosol Enamel Paint 3oz-Dullcote Lacquer. This seems to be the preferred spray matte. If you want a brush on matte varnish, I have had good results with the Vallejo matte varnish. I haven't used anything else. Hope this helps!

u/Donnchaidh · 1 pointr/XWingTMG

I've been using a clear coat from Testors.

Seems to do the job just fine. I'll use a gloss medium on things like canopies after the clear coat is full cured.

u/Man_Fried · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

This stuff is the best. Goes on smooth is cheap and easy to use.

Testors Aerosol Spray Lacquer Paint, 3oz

u/Ive_Defected · 1 pointr/minipainting

Testors dullcoate

Testors Aerosol Spray Lacquer Paint, 3oz

u/mastaberg · 1 pointr/XWingTMG

You can put a matte varnish on if you'd like. I don't usually because the paint holds up pretty good if you treat it well. If you do a varnish for the whole model definitely go matte to maintain the look. Only use a rattle can version. I've used the tester's one a lot:

u/tarmogoyf · 1 pointr/Tau40K

IDK if Citadel makes one specifically, I'm sure they do, but like a lot of their products, you're often better off getting a different brand that's just as good quality (and frequently better) as well as being cheaper.


What I personally use is Testors clear:


You don't have to use a lot, just enough to get an even coat over the whole miniature. Be sure to spray this outside or in a well-ventilated area. Also, don't forget that when you're done coating your models, to hold the spray can upside down and spray the excess for a couple seconds until it's just spraying the medium -- that way it clears out the spray mechanism. If you don't, it'll be clogged up next time you go to use it. This is true for all kinds of spray cans, including primers -- it's a common rookie mistake, so just mentioning it in case you haven't worked with this stuff yet.

u/Kremak · 1 pointr/40k

What could also be done to reduce the shiny effect on the nids would be to hit it with a matte varnish like this

u/marctyme · 1 pointr/ageofsigmar

For Testors, is this the product you use? It’s what comes up when I search Dullcote

Testors Spray Lacquer 3oz, Clear Coat

2. From your description it sounds like you paint the Quickshade on with old brushes as opposed to full on “dipping” the model in the Quickshade which is what is is shown in the guide. This is just for control/reduces amount I’m assuming? Is dipping the mini straight in there too much?

3. I havent had too many issues with mold lines (fingers crossed) thus far, what bothers me is slight gaps, like on the breast/collar bones of my hexwraiths mounts. Would you recommend a sliver of green stuff (haven’t touched it yet) or something for this? I could just be a sloppy gluer but in my experience sometimes these gaps seem unavoidable. Thoughts?

4. It’s funny you mention the palette, I lurked for awhile before jumping in with models and paints and so a wet palette was one of the first this i tried and didn’t use the right materials and it was too thin and so had to do more work/coats than necessary and ended up with not great results anyway :( it’s more correct now. Not perfect but better.

5. I’m pretty well through beating up my first set of brush so I think I’m ready to re-up. I think I’ll go for a few nice detail brushes and a cheaper utility set elsewhere, so if you have any recommendations, lemme know!

6. If I want bases for certain models or to kitbash some graveyard markers, where should I pick those up? eBay is full of knock offs that look untrustworthy or wouldn’t look right. Do you just get them straight from GW?

7. On that same subject, I want a dark if not black resident evil/silent hill style moonlight graveyard basing for my models, Any leads where I could find materials for this? I don’t want the typical tufts of grass or snow or rubble I see elsewhere.

Thanks again!

Edit: bad at words

u/homo-summus · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Is this stuff pretty good to use if I want a matte coat? Also, if there are parts I want shiny and parts I want matte, do I just have to break out the painter's tape?