Reddit Reddit reviews Tetra SafeStart Plus 250 mL, for Newly Set-Up Fish Aquariums

We found 14 Reddit comments about Tetra SafeStart Plus 250 mL, for Newly Set-Up Fish Aquariums. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Pet Supplies
Fish & Aquatic Pets
Aquarium Water Treatments
Tetra SafeStart Plus 250 mL, for Newly Set-Up Fish Aquariums
PREVENTS NEW TANK SYNDROME: Accelerates of the establishment of healthy bacteria in newly set-up freshwater aquariums.REDUCES TOXINS: Helps remove dangerous levels of ammonia and nitrite.FAST-ACTING: Starts working immediately to provide a healthy environment for new fish without a long wait.USAGE: Treat when setting up a new aquarium, after a water or filter change, when adding new fish or after medication.included components: 1 x SafeStart Plusage range description: All Life Stages
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14 Reddit comments about Tetra SafeStart Plus 250 mL, for Newly Set-Up Fish Aquariums:

u/surfbogie · 5 pointsr/Aquariums

Unfortuantely you also got some very sensitive fish. Not that I agree with this method but if you were to get fish to try to cycle the tank and get the proper bacteria Danio's are much hardier. Tetra's are not hardy at all, they are extremely sensitive to water. The good news is mfskarphedin is wrong, you don't have to throw this tank away. But it's going to take some time to recover from.

Buy some of this stuff http://www.amazon.com/Tetra-77962-SafeStart-Gallons-8-45-Ounc/dp/B002DZNP3E/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1377534545&sr=8-4&keywords=aquarium+cycle.
Run a filter on the tank and let it go for about a month. After a month do a 50% water change on the aquarium. Give it a week to see if the tank stabilizes still. If it does, grab a few hardy fish going to have to do research for this one. I know that Danio's are like tanks, esp the zebra danios. My favorite of the Danio's is the gold zebra danio's a little harder to find but still cheap and very hardy. Overall if you do that and the fish live you can start adding other fish. Btw Danio's are schooling fish so they are better off in a school of at least 6. You can always take them back after you know the fish are doing well. My store takes them back at full price.

u/AGrainOfSalt435 · 4 pointsr/Aquariums

I kept a diary of my cycling:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/14MOaPOKd0Re-0IKQK_B4ziSMoSQQy4s96ZFCGejzyBo/edit?usp=sharing

19-20 days total.

I did a fishless method and manually dosed ammonia. I saw nitrites after about 5-6 days. I didn't see nitrites go down until around day 15. I used Tetra Safe Start, but I'm not sure if it was helpful or not. Perhaps it was? I didn't use it until my ammonia went down to 1-2, as I read that high ammonia could kill the bacteria? I would have added it earlier but I had already dosed too much ammonia. And 2-4 for ammonia on the API Master Test kit are kind of close and I certainly wanted to make sure that I didn't waste the money I spent on the safe start.

I used this ammonia calculator to know how much to dose:

http://spec-tanks.com/ammonia-calculator-aquariums/

I used this ammonia:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TSJPAJA/

I had plants in the aquarium and I think it was nice to get those started and settled before I added my fishies and would probably explain the severe reduction in nitrates before the cycle started. I didn't do any water changes on the cycle. I did a very large water change right before I added fish to get the nitrates down.

u/goots · 3 pointsr/Aquariums

When you expand, this might be a handy tool for you: AquaAdvisor

Right now, if I were you, I would purchase:

HOB Nano filter

Siphon Water changer/gravel vacuum - Carry your aquarium over to a drain. Keep an empty two liter handy to pour freshwater back in.

You cycled your tank, right? If not, you may want to pour some of this in there to help.

Water Test Kit Keep track 2x a week. Small tanks are more difficult since water conditions can go bad quite quickly. Keeping an aquarium is not about fish, it's about chemistry.

Spiral CFL bulb to replace the incandescent you probably have. Incandescents suck and heat your aquarium way too much.

Thermometer Glass, with suction cup.

Light timer Trust me, keeping that light on all day is only going to cause algae, and won't make your plants grow quicker. 6 hours in the beginning, 8 hours max.

Heater 25 watt, keep at 80 degrees. The gradient lines will NOT be accurate.

------

Low-tech tank care Study this, and pay attention to the dry fertilization part.

u/Dinosarz · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

Tetra makes a "safe start" product that can be used to jumpstart your cycle.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002DZNP3E/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_tFA-ub194MYR9

Im sure there are better brands out there too. I know i have seen bags of bacteria (for breaking down ammonia and nitrite) at petsmart before

u/anonymoose_octopus · 2 pointsr/bettafish

Okay, if I'm guessing correctly, I'd say your tank isn't cycled. With a fish-in cycle, you're going to to need to either have the right products to help you along, or you're going to have to do daily/every other day water changes, to protect your fish.

What test kit are you using? Keep in mind that test strips are highly inaccurate and shouldn't be counted on. Anyone in the fish hobby will tell you that the API Freshwater Master Test Kit is a MUST HAVE, especially for fish-in cycling. You'll need to test daily to make sure the ammonia levels don't become toxic to your betta.

Here are my list of recommendations:

  1. Seachem Prime, as a water conditioner and ammonia detoxifier. It's the best of the best. You can find it at most pet stores, or online. I personally use Microbe-Lift XTreme as a water conditioner, but I have Prime as well. I started my cycle with MLXT and I just felt more comfortable continuing with it. I've cycled in a few weeks, and it's a great alternative to Prime, IMO.
  2. Tetra Safe Start Plus. I'd recommend the 1.69 oz bottle for your size tank. You'll want this to speed up your cycling process to get there as quickly as possible. You dump the whole bottle in for your tank size and refrain from water changing for at least a week to let the BB (that's bottled bacteria) colony grow. Make sure you add this 24 hours AFTER you add any water conditioner to his tank, though. If you add it before then, the BB will die. If your levels get dangerous for your fish, dose Prime to detoxify the levels.
  3. API Freshwater Master Test Kit. Again, this is a must have, and it's cheaper than the strips anyway in the long run (you get something like 800 tests out of this kit, instead of 4-5 for the strips).

    Until you get all of the necessary products to properly and safely cycle your tank, you'll need to do daily water changes of 20-30%. Otherwise the ammonia could build up in your tank and kill your fish. Even levels of 0.25 ppm is dangerous.

    I know this is overwhelming, but if you have ANY questions at all you can free feel to either post here or PM me.

    Also, Fishlore.com is an EXCELLENT source of information on all things fish. They're an extremely active forum that has helped complete newbs like myself out when I needed help most. I'd highly recommend doing more research on the nitrogen cycle and asking for help there.

    EDIT: I'm sorry, I didn't even see your last question. Oops. I got my plants from Petco/Petsmart, but Aquariumplants.com has great plants that arrive in excellent condition, from what I've heard and read.
u/mementomori27 · 2 pointsr/turtle

I would get the largest you can afford. More filtration is never a bad thing. Another poster said that 3x your tank size is a good rule. The 1200 is capable up to 150 gal tank so it would work but you might be doing more water changes. I bought the 1200 Elite version which comes with extra media and hoses but it sounds like you dont really need those. If you dont need hoses, the base model cascade 1500 is still $140 as well. That will handle up to 200 gal so it's a safe bet. I think that one would be better since your tank is larger.

Some quick links for you.

Penn Plax Cascade 1500 - 350GPH Canister Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DJ9PW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_VaFWAbD43X3EJ

Tetra WaterClarifier Treatment, 3.38-Ounce, 100-ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002DZNP3E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_7fFWAbTT7MVBP

u/perhapsso · 1 pointr/PlantedTank

You can try to get some filter media from your local fish store. It will have beneficial bacteria in it that can help start your cycle. You can also try adding a bottled bacteria like this. People have mixed results with it. You should test your water before you add fish to make sure the bottled bacteria is actually working. I recommend using API Freshwater Master Test Kit to test your water, the strips are not accurate.

u/50percentdriedmango · 1 pointr/bettafish

Update: I really need some advice. The fin rot seems to be slowly getting worse/not really getting better, and my 5.5 gallon tank is still nowhere near cycled (the ammonia just spiked, and I purchased a master test kit so I can test for other levels.)


I've been doing water changes of about 50% every other day now. Is this enough or too much? There are some short clear bits that appear to be fin regrowth at the end of her fins and tail, but above the regrowth there are still portions that look like they're receding. I've been adding in Prime whenever I do a water change.


How much salt can/should I be dosing the tank with weekly?


I was reading online that some people do fish-in cycles with TSS and treat the water with prime to stop the fish from feeling the effects. It sounds like a bad idea since Beatrice has fin rot, but I'm getting really concerned and I really want her fin rot to start healing, especially by now. All of your help is greatly appreciated!

u/jackalnight · 1 pointr/Aquariums

Not really, thats a water conditioner, like seachem prime, it removes metal other stuff from tap water. If your going to buy a water conditioner, most reccomend seachem prime as do I, but other brands like api and tetra work fine too.

What you maybe thinking about is concentrate bacteria, like this popular tetra safe start plus while cycling water may take long and is great for the bacteria to grow, with this you can put the right amount in the tank, wait few hours and throw fishes in, but keep in check for water changes and keep a close eye on ammonia, ph, nitrite, nitrate and the other good stuff

don't reccomend guppies in a 10g, tetras can go with shrimp(tetras might eat them) and rams should be fine. I dont think you space to put both species

u/PJsAreComfy · 1 pointr/Aquariums

Sorry yes, it's Tetra Safe Start Plus, a bottled bacteria. The Plus version is more concentrated and intended for instant cycling. Bottles are around $11 on Amazon with the largest bottle being cheapest (weird) but you can't use too much. Just shake really hard, use the whole bottle to ensure you get the proper mix of bacterias, and dump it right in the filter. Some bottles appear to be duds but many folks have rapid success with the product.

u/LicianDragon · 1 pointr/Aquariums

Get an API master test kit ($25 on Amazon) and start tracking your ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates. Test daily till you have 0ppm ammonia and 0ppm nitrite. Nitrate should be at or below 10ppm, 20ppm if the tank is heavily planted. To help your fish survive, get a bottle of bacteria cultures specific for aiding in tank cycling.

Can you provide pictures so we can verify your fish species?

Angelfish like lots of hiding places and can be aggressive. Keep an eye on your mollies. If your angels are leaving them alone, then get at least 2 more females, preferably another 6 (should be 2 females to every male). You will have more fry than you know what to do with but your angels will most likely eat them.

Water changes are usually done weekly at 20% or monthly at 40-50% depending on the type of setup you have. Low-tech planted tanks can go many months without water changes. After your tank has cycled it's best to do routine water changes to keep your nitrates down.

I also recommend feeding them only once a day. Fish will always act like they're completely starved and the more you feed, the more waste they produce meaning more ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate.

It's great you're asking for help and giving your fish better care! Keep us updated with the progress!

u/iamjli · 1 pointr/turtle

That would make a lot of sense. UV filter prolly not in my budget lol :[

Any idea how long? Like weeks-months range?

Is it still worth seeding the tank? Is this the correct product? I'm guessing I shouldn't have replaced the entire rack.

u/southerncoyote · 1 pointr/bettafish

You could add something call Safestart. It may or may not help, but it would be worth a try. It is supposed to add enough of the beneficial bacteria that grows when the tank cycles, but a lot of people see mixed results with it. I even tried it with one of my 55 gallon tanks, but it didn't help at all.

You will have the same water quality issues if you move him to a smaller container. Cycling is something that happens naturally when there is a source of ammonia and it will happen in any body of water. Adding another source of ammonia will most likely kill your fish so just leave him where he is and do the water changes every other day. Once the tank has completed its cycle you can do water changes once a week instead of every other day.

Always add water conditioner. It removes harmful chlorine and chloramines from the water that will hurt your fish and kill the beneficial bacteria that will grow when the tank is cycling. This is a really good water conditioner and it will last you a long time.

u/roboto6 · 1 pointr/bettafish

So, my simple explanation of the nitrogen cycle is, it's a process where beneficial bacteria grow in the tank and help process fish waste into something far less toxic (nitrogen)

It's very similar to the healthy bacteria we have in our digestive tract that help us digest foods we can't digest ourselves.

Since you haven't deliberately cycled your tank, you're doing what we call a "fish-in cycle" guide here. Basically, you're going to cycle your tank now that your fish is already in there, meaning we have to keep track of your ammonia (toxin that comes from fish waste) and nitrates (the byproduct of the beneficial bacteria).

To do this, you'll need a liquid test kit, I use the API Master Test Kit. It feels pricey up-front but I've had the same kit for about a year now and I do weekly checks on 9 tanks.

The guide will cover this in better detail but basically, you'll test the ammonia on your tank daily and do frequent water changes while also using a water conditioner (I use Seachem Prime as do many others) and you'll keep this process up until your tank tests positive for nitrates which indicate a cycle has been established.

You can try a product like SafeStart+ which can help give you seed bacteria which will kickstart the cycle. It's not guaranteed to work, I've had about an 80% success rate.