Reddit reviews The Book of Gin: A Spirited World History from Alchemists' Stills and Colonial Outposts to Gin Palaces, Bathtub Gin, and Artisanal Cocktails

I'm actually reading this book right now, and it seems likely to me that that phrase is a historical hold-over. Gin isn't aged like other liquors, so it's much cheaper, and in Colonial Britain it was the drink of choice for the lower class, and of course people equate poor with criminal.

The Book of Gin by Richard Barnett was published within the last couple years and is rather good. Very history focused, but also gets into production and current culture. Full disclosure: I've only read about half of it and my copy was an uncorrected proof, but I rather enjoyed it and will be getting back to it (someday).