Reddit Reddit reviews Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut Liquid Metal Thermal Paste, 1g

We found 30 Reddit comments about Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut Liquid Metal Thermal Paste, 1g. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Electronics
Computers & Accessories
Computer Components
Heatsinks
Internal Fans & Cooling Components
Computer Internal Components
Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut Liquid Metal Thermal Paste, 1g
Thermal paste ideal for optimizing thermal conductivityThermal conductivity 73 W / mkViscosity: 0.0021 PasTemperature: 10 ° C / +140 ° CContent: 1g
Check price on Amazon

30 Reddit comments about Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut Liquid Metal Thermal Paste, 1g:

u/MrChumDrumBedrum · 15 pointsr/overclocking

My PC:

  • 7700k @ 4.8 Ghz
  • ASUS STRIX Z270E mobo
  • Kraken x52 AIO
  • 16 gigs g.skill ram @ 3200
  • Gigabyte 970 (soon to be replaced with a 2070 this month)

    I built this PC back in 2017 and the CPU temps have been terrible since day 1.

    With my daily driver overclock of 4.8 Ghz, 100% utilization for more than 10 minutes would push CPU temps into the mid 90's. Heavy gaming (~50% utilization) would regularly cause temps in the upper 70's or low 80's.

    After browsing around here and Youtube I found that the problem was likely Intel's thermal paste under the IHS, so for just over $30 I bought:

  • A $13 Delid Tool
  • A $7 pack of sandpaper
  • Conductonaut Liquid Metal for $16

    I then delidded my CPU, spent over an hour sanding down my IHS, then applied liquid metal under the IHS and Artic MX-4 above (which I had laying around). I chose not to re-seal the IHS after reading some comments here.

    Now my CPU temps idle in the 30's, stay in the 40's while gaming and rarely ever hit the 50's.

    For CPU temps to break into the 60's, I have to run 100% utilization for over 15 minutes (as shown), which doesn't even happen in my day-to-day use.

    So pretty happy overall.
u/DyceFreak · 11 pointsr/techsupportmacgyver

Can even be more of a badass and replace the thermal material with this

u/dank4tao · 10 pointsr/Amd

Also consider applying a liquid metal thermal past like conductonaut, but only if you like making a deal with the devil. Actually don't consider it, but if you did it will drastically reduce your thermals on the GPU die... but if you are sloppy and get it anywhere it will kill the board because its well conductive. But then worst of all, it's highly corrosive and dissolves alumnium into a dust. So you can only really apply it if you have a copper/nickel heatsink. That said, if you are total badass grab some 33+ tape, tape down the perimeter of the gpu and apply the thinnest possible application of the liquid metal TIM. Like pea method is way too much, but you can use the syringe to "suck-up" after the fact but before you spread. When spreading by the grace of god be careful. Any speck on anything the heat-spreader on the GPU has the potential to short circuit or corrode any component. But then you can drop your thermals about 20C over stock paste, and about 10C over ceramic (non-conductive) paste. Which should help your device live a bit longer until prices can come down... or force you to buy a new one now if you mess up.

Here's the devil's bargain for about $20USD.

u/dropithott7 · 5 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/Holmes419 · 5 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Some kind of German black magic. Pop it open and it just takes a drop...https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01A9KIGSI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6-PDzb14X4XSX

u/Kuznecoff · 3 pointsr/thinkpad

Ya I would recommend ThrottleStop because anytime your PC crashes due to undervolting issues it will reset all the values of Intel XTU.

First you want to click on the FIVR button which opens the undervolting menus. I'd start your undervolt at -80 mv on both the CPU core and cache, working your way to a larger undervolt value in 2-3 mv intervals. Find the value that will crash your computer when you run a benchmark, and then set your undervolt value to 10 above that. My computer will crash at -110 mv, and runs stable 90% of the time at -100 mv.

Next, go to the GPU. Follow the same principle as the CPU undervolts, but start at around -45 mv. Don't undervolt this with the same values, or else you will fuck with your rendering big time. I have mine currently set to -60 mv and it runs stable.

In the general settings menu next to the table with your computer statistics, you'll want to set your speed shift (determines how fast your CPU runs from a value of 1-256; lower = faster). I made two profiles on TS to accommodate the different levels of stress it can take:

  • On A/C: set speed shift to 64
  • Off A/C: set speed shift to 128, disable turbo

    Next, go to the options button below the settings you just checked. Here you can name your profiles, and check AC Profile and select your first profile. Then, check Battery Profile and select your second profile.

    Voila, now you are undervolted. This should lower your running temps by several degrees, and make your benchmarks higher.

    Another thing that helps with speed/temp/battery is repasting your CPU. Follow the instructions on the following videos. I recommend using Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut, as it can achieve the lowest running temperatures.

  • Video 1
  • Video 2

    By doing all of the aforementioned, I've lowered my running temperature by around 10 degrees Celsius on average, with a typical running temperature of 39 degrees with 20+ Firefox tabs, Spotfiy, and MS Word open.
u/Els236 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

EDITED:

So, apparently the Conductonaut I bought was only 1g for £7.49

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01A9KIGSI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So yeah... 10G of that would be £74.99 apparently (which is almost $100). I was under the impression my little syringe was 5g, not 1g.

u/paulgali · 2 pointsr/DubaiGaming

> thermal paste replacement

Shouldn't be necessary. Some pastes have a break in period only which afterwards they perform optimally. But saying that, its good. Do what I did, put Conductonaut on there ;)

I'm joking, dont. Ask them what brand they use, then I'll judge them

u/tapao · 2 pointsr/gpumining

I have an old 770 in my GF NZXT manta case.

Card would regularly hit 78-80c while gaming. (Case has dead spot under the card where air cant flow. meh design on that part.)

I used Conductonaut. Card doesnt go above 65 now. BIG change.
https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Conductonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B01A9KIGSI

u/Search11 · 2 pointsr/intel

Valid concerns but trust me it’s a breeze to do. Given how hot your CPU gets you will benefit from a proper delid. Granted though you are still within safe temps. The temps are highish but they aren’t abnormal compared to most others. Higher temps do lessen the life of the CPU but we are talking a very small time span compared to the market life of the chip. I’d say you and 99% of all PC builders will have build a second or even third computer before silicone degradation even reaches minimal levels. If that makes sense. Yeah high temps kill it but it’s like saying the three cigarettes you smoked in high school took two minutes off your life when you live to be a hundred anyway. Analogy might be to the extreme but I wouldn’t worry about it.

With that said here’s some links that will help you.

Delid tool and re attachment tool:

https://rockitcool.myshopify.com

Plastic razor blades to remove stock glue (what you mentioned not knowing what to do with, yes remove it the easiest way I’ve done it was using these and a small amount of isopropyl alcohol):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D6EXLR0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_nvYleOEGfw2EO

Silicone “glue” for IHS re attachment. To be honest the very first delid I did was a 3570k using wood a vice and a hammer and I didn’t reglue it. It’s still alive too. I would personally just use a very small amount on the four corners. Just enough to stick. You are correct in your concern about the stock glue causing the IHS to not make perfect contact with the die. Remove the stock crap and use minimal amount of this and it will be a non concern:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002UEN1A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_2g9BJXXKzhp9F

Lastly, your liquid metal for the die to IHS and your TIM for the IHS to Kraken. You can use any but it’s probably safe to say Grizzly is currently the go to stuff:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011F7W3LU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_6QNoes1d24uyu

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A9KIGSI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_lBeHQg1WHWPGP



All in all it’s easy and it’s worth it. If you have any questions whatsoever message me or reply here. There are some good videos of walkthroughs (I think one really good one is on rockitcool’s website but I’m not sure). I can find them for you but tomorrow as I’m currently in bed and using a half open eye lid to write this.

u/badaladala · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I agree with /u/mockingbird. I have a 3770k at stock settings with a GTX970. I rarely see anything above 30% cpu usage.
My upgrade path is a CryoRig H7, a delid tool with some conductonaut for better thermals because right now, CPU temperatures are keeping my clock speed low

u/tamarockstar · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme

Which games are you playing competitively? Also you're going to want the fastest RAM you can get. I replaced the motherboard and RAM and took out a 1080 Ti from /u/MrTechSavvy build.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel - Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $328.79 @ SuperBiiz
CPU Cooler | Deepcool - CAPTAIN 240EX WHITE 153.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $80.99 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | Gigabyte - GA-Z270X-UD5 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $198.99 @ Amazon
Memory | G.Skill - Trident Z 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3600 Memory | $189.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Crucial - MX300 1.1TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $268.89 @ OutletPC
Video Card | Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB AORUS Xtreme Edition 11G Video Card | $749.99 @ NCIX US
Case | Phanteks - Enthoo Evolv ATX Glass ATX Mid Tower Case | $174.99 @ NCIX US
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $117.98 @ Newegg
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $2120.61
| Mail-in rebates | -$10.00
| Total | $2110.61
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-05-10 20:07 EDT-0400 |

This RAM is Samsung B-die. XMP profile will do 3600 CAS 16. You could probably overclock it even further. Those high frame rates are going to heavily depend on CPU and RAM frequency. If the games are CS:GO and Overwatch, a 1070 would probably perform the same as the 1080 Ti. The CPU and RAM speed is going to be the bottleneck. Good luck.

Edit: Since you'll want the best overclock for the CPU, you would want to delid the CPU if you are comfortable with that. Here's a couple things you'd need to delid.

Rockit 88 delid tool

Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut

Arctic MX-4

Delid guide - youtube

u/Meatballwarrior · 2 pointsr/buildapc
u/CherryBlossomStorm · 2 pointsr/buildapc

you might drop 2-3 degrees.

Feeling brave? wanna drop 20 degrees? Try Conductonaut liquid metal on your GPU! It's Steve-approved!

To confirm: you already replaced the thermal past on your GPU once with paste from your hyper-212, correct?

and 70-80 is not abnormal and shouldn't be throttling.

u/fletchmanjr1 · 1 pointr/razer

Base model Blade 15 2018 with 1060

For best thermals:

Thermal pads
and liquid metal

as well as this conformal coating to prevent the liquid metal from allowing conduction to happen.



in ThrottleStop


for performance

and for Battery

Then if you want to get even better thermals
this cooling pad giving me these idle temps and these temps in Assassins Creed Odyssey after 3 hours of play Connected to my Core X Chroma.


With 32gb of RAM and 4tb of storage between the 2tb sata and the 2tb nvme drives it's my work computer with A couple VMs running and lots of chrome tabs and my main PC when i'm home plugged into the core.

if you don't like the Razer logo on the back you can get a dbrand skin on it with no logo cutout

u/wantonballbag · 1 pointr/flashlight

Fantastic. Great input. I'll get some thermal paste actually that's a good call.

Is this accurate for the colour?

https://i.imgur.com/Y1m1VXW.jpg

EDIT: Just to be clear I take it electrically conductive pastes are out of the question?

Trying to decide between this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Thermal-Grizzly-conductonaut-heat-compound/dp/B01A9KIGSI

and this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Grizzly-Kryonaut-compound-compounds-5-5g-250/dp/B00ZJSF5LM/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=SZRKP3AY70WN7RNX0YK6

u/trikolpona · 1 pointr/Alienware

You need to use thermal grizzly conductonaut. It worked like a charm for me. you can ge it from amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Conductonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B01A9KIGSI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520263293&sr=8-1&keywords=thermal+grizzly+conductonaut

But make sure you know what you doing. Otherwise you will brick your laptop

u/DatTestBench · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace


>Is it worth delidding an 8086k if I am only going to do moderate overclocking?

Well cooler is always better when it comes to most PC components, and CPUs are no different.

As for if it's worth it, if you feel comfortable doing it, I guess why not, but there is always a risk, so if you do it yourself, it's at your own discretion.


>If I do, what's the best delid tool and thermal paste to do it with?

Bare in mind that I haven't delided anything, so all of these recommendations are based on what others recommended.

For the deliding tool, I'd use the der8auer Delid Die Mate 2 (tutorial).

As for liquid metal, Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut seems highly regarded. (Amazon link)

u/MrBaNaNeRs · 1 pointr/playstation

Here is a link to a post in r/PS4Pro

https://www.reddit.com/r/PS4Pro/comments/8etw4x/changed_tim_to_liquid_metal_on_my_ps4_pro/

​

You basically replace the old thermal paste on the APU with one that transfers heat more efficiently which in this case, it's liquid metal. You can probably get the it on Amazon.

u/got_mule · 1 pointr/hardwareswap

Are you intentionally paying a premium to try to get it from someone today or tomorrow? Because it can be had on Amazon for $16...

u/ZomBlaze · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Just make sure its Liquid Pro, Liquid Ultra, or Conductonaut.... If you're going to do something, do it right.... ;)

u/shadowfu · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

100% worth it. I run all cores @ 5Ghz and sit under 60c when 100% load. I delid and I use Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut on the chip / IHS, and normal ~8.3W/mK on the IHS / Water block (larger surface area)... if I take it apart again, I'm doing the Conductonaut on the IHS.

edit: to answer you question, I have only one printer. I believe it was all of 40ml of resin to print this tool. After UV curing, the standard black resin has 65MPa tensile strength.

u/johncrist1988 · 1 pointr/Alienware

I still believe that, as well. Razer replaced my unit twice, so I went through a total of three units with similar results. To clarify, TF-8 isn't LM, it's just a higher-end TIM with a thermal conductivity of 13.8 W/mK (source). In comparison, Arctic Silver 5 has a thermal conductivity of 8.9 W/mK (source), Corsair's XTM50 has a thermal conductivity of 5.0 W/mK (source), and Kryonaut has a thermal conductivity of 12.9 W/mK (source). On the other hand, LM has a thermal conductivity of 73 W/mK (source).

Between the TF-8 that I prefer and the FujiPoly Extreme pads I prefer to use (I use a caliper to measure the stock pads width and apply the same width, so it's a straight exchange with a higher thermal conductivity at 17 W/mK) I expect to be able to dissipate that heat quickly and thus have lower temperatures. That said, every gaming laptop on the planet is moving towards thin and light, and while these high performance parts are drawing less and less power and thus emitting less and less heat, OEMs aren't balancing the rate by which component manufacturers are producing more thermally efficient components with the rate that we're shrinking our devices.

u/MilkySharpMan · 1 pointr/overclocking
u/fredrichnietze · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/9FgPxr/corsair-cpu-cooler-cw9060024ww
h80iv2 and if money is no object i would think about delidding your cpu and using something like https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Conductonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B01A9KIGSI which IS conductive so be sure to do it right and watch guides if you do it. you may also want to replace the fans with something like https://pcpartpicker.com/product/ntXfrH/noctua-case-fan-nfa14industrialppc3000pwm or https://pcpartpicker.com/product/LkJkcf/corsair-co-9050040-ww-750-cfm-120mm-fan-co-9050040-ww
which are a bit beefier and ofc using after market thermal paste like https://pcpartpicker.com/product/3wLypg/arctic-cooling-thermal-paste-mx2r or https://pcpartpicker.com/product/WtvRsY/antec-thermal-paste-formula7

using itx is cool and easy to move but the thermal challenges get a bit more expensive to deal with. price you got to pay for atx performance in a mini itx.

u/INI_Fourzero · 1 pointr/intel

Kryonaut, Gelid Extreme and MX-4 are all good. Kryonaut is the best one imo (12,5 W/mk, that's thermal conductivity - not to be mistaken with the paste being conductive - it's not) compared to 8.5 on Gelix and MX-4. I also like how easy it is to spread around

Liquid Metal is conductive (Conductonaut). Here's a good video of doing the whole thing (especially the tape part so you don't have to deal with cleaning spillage) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jGrErLzePdw

u/zagreen · 1 pointr/laptops

Here it is https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Conductonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B01A9KIGSI
Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut - 1g (TG-C-001-R) Yep i think it was liquid

u/eyusmaximus · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Meh, £8.27 with free delivery. Really not very expensive and there's only a risk if you can't spread it properly, even then you just clean it off.

u/He_Ma_Vi · -2 pointsr/Amd

Take a nice step back and review what you're saying and what everyone else is saying. It's intolerable conversing with people who seem to be in their own bubble, not reading what others say, and responding as though things that aren't there are there.

Liquid metal is frequently referred to as a thermal paste^1 ^2 ^3, while thermal pads are never, ever, ever referred to as thermal pastes (^(except maybe in clickbait YT titles)). So how is bringing up thermal pads--for god knows what reason--prudent but bringing up liquid metal is somehow "irrelevant"?