Reddit reviews ThermoPro TP50 Digital Hygrometer Indoor Thermometer Room Thermometer and Humidity Gauge with Temperature Humidity Monitor

Are you using an accurate, digital hygrometer? The analog "dial" gauges are notoriously inaccurate.

This is what I use: https://www.amazon.com/ThermoPro-TP50-Digital-Thermometer-Temperature/dp/B01H1R0K68

I live in the Pacific NW and the humidity in our house seems to hover around 45% this time of year. My 15 gal tub with nothing more than paper towels as substrate reached 75% with a RHP and a small water bowl under the panel. I tried eco earth or some other coconut husk based substrate and my humidity shot right to 90% with condensation streaming down the sides. That would be great for a Rainbow Boa but a bit too much for my BP. I went back to paper towels which I actually like quite a bit.

​

I think in general high humidity is not an issue unless you have high levels of condensation.


If you want to keep the substrate, you might try adding a few more ventilation holes in the side of your tub.

​

​

Not dumb, necessary! And yes, find a bottle that sprays a fine mist. The cheapo plastic lil guy that came in this "plant lady kit" my mom got me from Urban Outfitters works a whole lot better than the beautiful Crate and Barrel brass plant mister that literally spits drops of water.

As for the humidity, I use this combination hygrometer and thermometer I got from Amazon.

In seriousness though...

> I've read warnings against using foam cases for long term storage because of moisture building up with nowhere to escape and causing rust.

I keep all large sillica packets I come across at work and store them in my safes, cases, etc. Haven't had an issue yet. Also I bought a cheap hygrometer to keep in the house to monitor humidity levels, before dropping a bunch for a dehumidifier.

Here is one a lot of people use! But really anything digital should give you a way more accurate reading!

Nutes: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006XTQGLO?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_t2

Few packages of these to hang lights and filter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010DD743O?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_t2

Extension cords
Plenty of options

Lights
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01B4GQ6MO?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_t2

Fabric pots:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00TF9E6XE?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_t2

Air control
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01H1R0K68?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_t2

Fans
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001R1RXUG/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Outlet timer:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XC7GTCN/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Tent https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01731MNJE/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Carbon filter
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01CJ5D4AG/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

4 inch duct
Can find anywhere

Jewelers loop (super important)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00K0BGNNC?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_t2

To dry your buds
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01GXHQIKO?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_t2

Surge protectors and ext cords
Find anywhere

Inline fans
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M7S46YZ?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_t2

Soil probe

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017GQ9VVY/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A few other things I got locally from grow shops. Quality seeds are important. Greenpointseeds.com is always having bomb sales, ship from Colorado, and are top quality. Soil from local grow shops but can also buy from online. I went cheaper on light, but I wouldn't do that again. Get good quality lights.

Don't bother with the smart pot brand pots, just find a good fabric grow bag with handles. I use these. I'd also get a different pH tester, or go the analog route with some of this, it's kind of annoying to do but it works. Blue Lab makes very reliable meters, they are worth the extra money if you decide to buy a meter. A lot of problems are caused by improper pH, you definitely don't want to cheap out on a meter (unless you wanna buy new ones all the time). Analog is just as reliable although you can't be as precise with your measurements as you can with digital. This hasn't been a problem for me.

To address some of your questions: Your plan for ventilation sounds fine, you may want to get a window dryer vent to assure the air doesn't flow back through your window. This also makes it a little more stealth.

Nutrients won't be necessary for about 30 days in FFOF because it's a hot soil. In fact if you feed them anything you'll probably burn them. Some seedlings will burn in FFOF regardless of whether or not you feed them nutes, some people recommend their happy frog soil for starting seedlings, then transplanting into FFOF after the roots have developed. Usually you'll be fine in FFOF so I wouldn't worry as long as you're feeding plain water for the first 25-30 days.

You should also get a hygrometer to monitor temps and humidity, it's very helpful in diagnosing potential problems. Other than that and some liquid nutes you've got what you need on that list.

Also, you should definitely start in a smaller container than 5 gal for your seedlings. Get some of those red solo cups, oversized if you can find them. You can establish the plant in those and transplant them right into the 5 gallon.

https://www.amazon.com/ThermoPro-TP50-Digital-Thermometer-Temperature/dp/B01H1R0K68/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1504719167&sr=8-8&keywords=temp+gauge


it's not good you don't have one already, its a critical tool for a grower, cut it all down, separate out the mold buds from saveable buds and make rosin.

Get an accurate gauge that measures temperature and humidity, because temperature alone is just half the story. Humidity makes a huge difference to how "comfortable" a given temperature feels.

Here's a temperature/humidity gauge on Amazon that seems to get good reviews.

I agree about the caliber IV. They have been spot on for me in my main and it reads fast. I bought 4 of the smaller ThemoPro for my tupperdores and none of them were accurate ranging from 2-4 rh Worse part is there was no return policy

This one bad

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01H1R0K68/

How about a big clear tote that is air sealed? https://www.target.com/p/sterilite-54-qt-gasket-box-clear-with-blue-latches/-/A-15079778

I'm using that with a rechargeable desiccant https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H0XFCS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and monitoring with a hygrometer https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H1R0K68/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I designed some storage rails and can hold 8 spools on the two sets of rails, with room in between for another spool. More spools could be stacked on top of the spools on the rails if necessary.

Get a hygrometer, a $1-2 dial one is plenty, I have this one though.

Humidity in the basement should be kept below 50% for mold to stay dormant. You might want to dry it out to 30% for awhile with a fan circulating the air around if there's been recent wet problems.

On porous surfaces or those you don't want to damage, Borox is better than bleach. Have walmart do free store pickup if you have trouble finding it. It's 1 cup (8 oz) to a gallon. You spray a bit of the solution on, wait a few minutes, then clean up.

Mold remediation doesn't need to be done if the moisture source has been fixed and you keep that basement dry. Clean any visible mold with borax or bleach.

I would suggest getting a digital unit. If you dont have a lot to spend, something like this could work https://www.amazon.com/ThermoPro-TP50-Digital-Thermometer-Temperature/dp/B01H1R0K68

What i use and recommend - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BH493W8/ref=twister_B01MXDXZCE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

​

After that, if you still have an issue, look to get a glass lid if you don't have one or try and completely seal the tank. Also insulating up to 3 sides, at least the back, over the UTH, will help hold the heat.

Any old battery operated temperature/humidity sensor should do. Just stick it in the fridge. Something like this would do.

I can't speak for how accurate this one is, but this one is recommended in the college budget thread.

This, that guitar looks dry as fuck. Get it into the case with a humidifier immediately as a starting point. I recommend the D'addario two-way humidification system and buy a small hygrometer. I keep one of these in my case and one in my bedroom - if I get the humidity right in my apartment, I'll let my acoustic sit outside of its case (I also have a Guild - a D40). You want the humidity to be between 45%-55% (worry below 40%, especially below 35%). If humidity is too low in my apartment, I keep it in the case with the D'addario humidifier.

As others have stated, you should take it to a proper luthier. I'd honestly go to a luthier, not just a tech. You're better off with someone that builds instruments because a good luthier will repair the cracks while knowing the best thing for the soundboard to maintain the best sound possible.

They are pretty cheap, I got this one. It survived after dropping it into my bowl of water (after drying out)

• https://www.amazon.com/ThermoPro-TP50-Digital-Thermometer-Temperature/dp/B01H1R0K68/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1505096589&sr=8-3&keywords=humidity+sensor

Buy one. They are cheap($10-$15) and so worth it to make sure you arent cooking or freezing your plants.

ThermoPro TP50 Digital Hygrometer Indoor Thermometer Room Thermometer and Humidity Gauge with Temperature Humidity Monitor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H1R0K68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-reBDbNX3WR0C

I have 2 of the EvaDry 333's. My little gauge says I'm at 35% humidity but I don't know how accurate it is...

You can get a dirt cheap little humidistat that should tell you what your humidity is.

When you turn on the furnace the humidity should rise a bit (if it's below... 40?)

Another thing you could do is to get a cheapie humidifier and keep it near your bed and see if it helps to have it on at night. I found taking my allergy meds at night seems to work better in keeping me sniffle-free the next day. I take the Costco generics, but had to try my way to the Aller-Fex to find that it worked better than the other ones.

With for instance this device.

I have very little experience with the Nobiles so I'm only passing along what I've culled through my own research. There are at least 3 instances of growers that I came across that took Nobile twins or alliance mates and grew them under 2 regimens.

a) In the greenhouse, under filtered light, and watered throughout the year.

b) full sun starting in march - all the way to November with lots of watering along the way followed by a winter rest where they cut the watering down to some insane frequency like once a month.

a) grew fat bulbs and colored out to dark green but threw keikis

b) turned a sickly yellow but during the wintering phase it threw out a ton of spikes.

go figure - deep green = sick, sickly yellow = happy - who knew?

As for fine fir bark this is what I bought:

Again I have different ratios of sphagmoss to perlite to bark depending on how fast I think the media is drying out, but for the smaller plants in my collection that small fir bark was a key addition to my closet full junk.

I've tried sphagnum moss from chile, from new zealand, from the nursery, and from home depot...the new zealand stuff is far and away the best I've found...it's fluffy, uniform, long, has insane water retention ratios - oh and did I mention it's fluffy? The crap from home depot - all it did was compress under the weight of the water and push out the precious air the roots needed to survive so that home depot bag went in the garbage. I bought bricks from ebay (just search for sphag moss) for like 5 bucks - that one brick expands to like 20 or 30x its packed size (super fun to watch btw). If you're in a pinch they also sell sphag moss at big box pet stores in the reptile section for some insane markup.

As for the PH of my water - there's a couple of things going on there, the alkalinity of my water (as you pointed out) and the PH level of the water. If the AOS guidelines I read are indicative of what's going, the high PH water is a nothing burger, but the alkalinity is a big red flag and one that isn't easily fixed.

My PPM measurements are well within what would be considered acceptable, but alkalinity has caused some weird buildups on a few of my larger plants...they look like salt buildups but I'm convinced it's all the minerals in the water. I haven't gotten around to it, but I'm about to try some AOS guidelines to test the substrate PH and PPM levels because ultimately that's what matters most to the plants so I'll share that info back when I get some time.

As for fertilizer - don't overthink it - just figure out which of your plants likes a little bit many times, and which wants all of it but every so often. I read some AOS literature that convinced me that the concentration matters less than the frequency of application, so in some/many/most cases - it's just safer to feed a little bit just more frequently.

For your last set of questions:

>My biggest question is how long do I maintain the winter rest with these new orchids and when do I change the routine?

nov - mar/april'ish - this only applies to the dendrobium nobile and similar deciduous alliance mates, the other stuff I would continue to water

> Should they be kept in low light and allowed to dry out?

I wouldn't drastically change the amount of available light - it was more the drop in watering and temps that forces the Nobile into dormancy, and don't freak out if it throws leaves - it's a deciduous plant after all.

> If so how dry and should I be watering thoroughly or just misting?

If that were my plant in your conditions - For the Dens and in particular the Nobile, I'd do a quick flush every week and a half to two weeks...watch the pseudo bulbs for shriveling - those will be your indicator as to whether or not you're on point. Just don't overdo it. For everything else wet/dry cycles are fine. You can tune your mix to extend the damp cycle so you're not watering them every other day to counter a low humidity environment.

> Come spring do you gradually start watering more?

I would imagine so - figure starting in March (or April for you) start introducing them to more and more light until it's safe to push the Nobile back into full sun.

> Should they all be given a balanced fertilizer once it's time for the spring growing season?

This is one of the things you end up figuring out for yourself. When starting out - it's better to under fertilize then over fertilize (over fert => deaded orchid) , and that's partly driven by your availability. This is supposed to be fun and engaging for you, and the moment it starts feeling like work, it will cease being fun for you, you'll start neglecting them and they'll die.

It's easy to get excited when you're figuring all this stuff out - but try to imagine how interesting this will be for you 3, 4, 5 months in after dutifully tending to your crop and watching them do absolutely nothing (reality check there).

So short answer is - figure out how much time you want to devote to tending and watering them then tweak your growing parameters to fit that schedule as best you can. I do 1/4 strength solutions weekly for the active growers and that's worked out well for me.

For me - I scan my small collection multiple times a day, which is precisely the wrong to do (orchids benefit more from benign neglect yet suffer under constant tending - go figure), but that's what makes this fun for me. I feel like misting is harmless but so addictive and the Phal I rescued from the onset of bud blasts tells me I'm doing something right with all the misting it gets.

Oh and re: humidity, tons of hygrometers on amazon $8 shipped

Worth its weight in gold just so you have a handle on something that can and often does cause problems. If you can't do the humidifier there are other more localized options that don't involve raising the relative humidity of an entire room but we can jump off that bridge when we get to it...Give your collection a few weeks to stabilize and acclimate and just work on acquiring a few low cost supplies to get you ready for spring.

Oh and this
> 1) When you say peat for the cymbidium, do you mean straight peat moss and not long fiber spaghnum? Should I be letting it dry out in the meantime or keeping it somewhat moist?

Peat moss added to the mix not straight peat moss though I suppose that's entirely possible. Terrestrials don't like going bone dry, you want them moist/damp ideally, not wet all the time.

Again take what I said with a grain of salt and seek a range of opinions, there are people in this forum far more qualified than me to give you targeted advice...it just so happened that I recently went through nearly everything you're going through right now so figured I'd share what worked for me.

Good luck!

That's correct. As long as your store your filament in a sealed container with humidity level below 20%, the filament would lose moisture to the air which will be absorbed by the desiccant.

I use this desiccant which can be recharged in the oven, this humidity sensor, and a large ziplock box with enough room for all my filaments (maybe 14?)

ThermoPro TP50 Digital Hygrometer Indoor Thermometer Room Thermometer and Humidity Gauge with Temperature Humidity Monitor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H1R0K68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jsbFDbMJFDSD2 had this one for a year or two

https://www.amazon.com/ThermoPro-TP50-Digital-Thermometer-Temperature/dp/B01H1R0K68 I use something like this for humidity. I know the stick on thermometer gauges are inaccurate, no idea about the humidity ones but these are good.

Our son was 4 months during the worst part of winter last year. We had terrible insulation in the house that we were renting, it was also built in the 40's and we weren't too sure how recently updated certain elements of the home were and limited on what we could do since we were renting. In all honesty, the only way to keep the temperature bearable for us all was to use space heaters, our furnace just couldn't keep up. We were super cautious about using them though and did our research on which ones were the safest/best on the market. We also bought these little nifty gadgets to make sure we were keeping him in a comfortable range in terms of temperature in the house.

Sleep sacks are another wonderful option, as well as layers. We would usually dress him in one of the basic short sleeve onesies, some version of a footy pajama set or a sweat pant long sleeve top combo with socks and then a sleep sack over that, depending on how cold it was. I second the halo sleep sack, we had multiple fleece sleep sacks for the winter (I found it nice to have more than one for spit up and blow out purposes), as well as a cotton for the spring/summer.

We also made sure to use thicker curtains in the nursery and in our bedroom, the extra fabric acts as a bit of an insulator, as well as the black out curtains are wonderful for nap time etc.

Get digital temp amd humidity gauges. The analog ones are known to be highly inaccurate which could lead to you not knowing of a problem inside your bps enclosure. Ill list some more accurate temp/humidity gauges i use for all my animals/know work far better than analog gauges.

(These two links are for direct spots) https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Digital-Thermometer-Humidity/dp/B06XY3X7P9/ref=sxin_2_ac_m_rm?ac_md=0-0-ZGlnaXRhbCByZXB0aWxlIHRoZXJtb21ldGVy-ac_d_rm&keywords=digital+reptile+thermometer&pd_rd_i=B06XY3X7P9&pd_rd_r=f1b30844-5547-49df-95ff-ba0aac3561f2&pd_rd_w=Uchs0&pd_rd_wg=guzkL&pf_rd_p=d1a6ea92-24ed-409e-8e33-97dc5a8de815&pf_rd_r=TGRYA2JMNKC4SK449XXH&qid=1569166473&s=gateway&sprefix=digitalreptile++thermometer

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07RBPV8Q4/ref=sspa_mw_detail_0?ie=UTF8&psc=1

(I use this one to make sure my heatmat regulartor thing is accurate) https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-774-Non-contact-Thermometer/dp/B00837ZGRY/ref=sxin_2_osp129-ac57b3ab_cov?ascsubtag=ac57b3ab-bed4-443b-8488-8e105122ba5b&creativeASIN=B00837ZGRY&cv_ct_id=amzn1.osp.ac57b3ab-bed4-443b-8488-8e105122ba5b&cv_ct_pg=search&cv_ct_wn=osp-search&keywords=digital+thermometer&linkCode=oas&pd_rd_i=B00837ZGRY&pd_rd_r=89005af9-9dd9-4e80-a240-605a60d3d510&pd_rd_w=t3SHd&pd_rd_wg=c1tkV&pf_rd_p=33b90d57-4392-4d9b-9557-da4c9de25645&pf_rd_r=AZDN5TXKRQHMD5KGXTCN&qid=1569166451&s=gateway&sprefix=digital+&tag=thedrive09-20

(This one is for the middle or get two for each side as this one has worked the best to see the overall temp/humidity in the enclosures for my bp and crested) geckohttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H1R0K68/?coliid=I2O5Q9VJY092E6&colid=2MBRCC0QH2E8J&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Edit: also whats your overal humidity in the room you're keeping the tank cause the cypress might be soaking up in moosture in the air which is causing your enclosure to be so high. I do still suggest you change to digital but it still might be helpful to know if your bedroom is the problem.

I would follow u/tomgabriele suggestion and get one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Moisture-Test-Calcium-Chloride-Single/dp/B0078KMKCG

you may also want to get a humidistat: https://www.amazon.com/ThermoPro-TP50-Digital-Thermometer-Temperature/dp/B01H1R0K68/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1519750260&sr=1-1&keywords=humidistat

Here you go. Temp/Humidity and webcam

Sounds like a reasonable guy. SMH

Buy one of these. It's under $10 and help monitor the humidity in the apartment. .. and it's magnetized so stick it on the fridge. . https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H1R0K68/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Quick question: after the 3rd week when the temp are low during the jar cure phase do you keep the jar in the room or burp them and then keep them in the fridge. Also how does one check the rh inside a jar, do you open the jar put it inside or just leave it inside the jar? Would something like this be https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H1R0K68/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 work because I am not sure if it will survive inside a fridge. Thank you

I've never really heard about them being notoriously inaccurate, but I probably just didn't look enough. I just picked up this one a few weeks ago and it works fine. It had good reviews so I didn't hesitate to pick it up.

The humidifier I have has a built in "comfort setting" or whatever it's called. It just keeps the humidity set at the level you want. I have it set at 45% humidity, and the hygrometer mostly reads within +/-1% of that, so it meets my expectations pretty well. If it matters, I have a rather large studio apartment, and the humidifier and hygrometer are set at the furthest point from each other in the corners.

Search for hygrometers on amazon. I got a nice wireless one for my crawlspace.

Meade Instruments TM005X-M Wireless Indoor/Outdoor Thermo Hygrometer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004I08CEO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WbdaBbEPGZDXF


I got this one for my bedroom.

ThermoPro TP50 Digital Hygrometer Indoor Thermometer Humidity Monitor with Temperature Humidity Gauge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H1R0K68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NadaBb41KMDHD



Run a dehumidifier!

Put it in a sealed bag and put the bag in a closed container with some desiccant, like the crystal cat litter. Like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J5GE3MA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_y4pPCbMDZMQM4

For the sealed box I have something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C882DVV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_h8pPCb5YNJPMA

I usually put the cat litter in a sock and tie it off. Cold is actually bad for the filament especially if you try to print with right after taking it out.

I live in the very humid south and this work even for the really hygroscopic TPU stuff.

If you’re really paranoid you could put one of these in the box:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H1R0K68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_iaqPCb7NZ81DB
I have even seen people cut a hole in the container just big enough to see the screen and seal around it (search on Thingiverse).

Hope this helps.

Yeah it was too tall.
I use a digital hygrometer.

I personally like peaking in but a wifi enabled one would be cool if you were away for an extended period of time.

https://www.amazon.com/ThermoPro-TP50-Digital-Thermometer-Temperature/dp/B01H1R0K68/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1521247525&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=acurite+temperature+and+humidity+sensor&psc=1

this one?

depends on your humidity levels now. get a gauge

https://www.amazon.com/ThermoPro-TP50-Digital-Thermometer-Temperature/dp/B01H1R0K68

too dry is bad for your skin and nasal passages, too wet is bad for mold growth.

I doubt either kill dust mites.

Lots of variables here, but silicone spray is what you need to keep powder on the board. When you use your spray, make sure and shoot it out at a very slight angle (almost parallel to the board) and not at a 45 degree angle or something more severe. Spraying it directly down at the board will create "zebra stripes" that retain the powder, but leave dry spots in between the areas covered.

Other things to consider:

• what's the relative humidity of your office? Depending on where you live, seasonal changes in humidity can greatly affect the performance of the powder. You can get a cheap ($10), effective hygrometer on Amazon. Try to keep your office / shuffleboard room somewhere between 40-50%. Buy here
  
  
• check your weights (pucks). Your weights may have too much of a bevel on them and they might be "plowing" your powder off the board. Try experimenting with other brands. A 9' board should be using the smaller diameter weights, not 2-5/16" diameter ones.
  
  
• make sure that you are using your shaker to distribute your powder evenly. People in regional / national / international tournaments powder the board twice, once up, once back.
  
  
• no need to buff the silicone spray. If you want, you can just spray it on and roll with it. If you play in tournaments and stuff, they will generally spray the board, throw used powder over the top of it, run the board wipe down and back on the board and dump the "siliconed" powder in the center of the board (in the gutter) so it doesn't get put back on the board. Allowing the siliconed powder to get back on the board may cause "tracking" where your weights will drag a small clump of it and drag your weight to a premature stop. Wiping the board will even out your spray and give you a consistent playing surface. Powder the board (twice) after you wipe the siliconed powder off and you should be good to go for 6-10 games.
  
  In a hurry. Good luck! Have fun!
  
  *EDIT - speed grammar and such
  
  

For heat a space heater on a thermostat outlet when the lights are off and possibly also while on. For cooling while lights are on you can run a fan on a thermostat outlet. I have used this one for these purposes in the past. You definitely want a tent or to create a confined growing space so that the environment is more controllable. If you have a 24 hour temp and humidity monitor, like this, that lets you know what’s going on when you are not looking.

Cellulose should be alright in your attic. Assuming it's properly ventilated, it shouldn't get very humid up there, with the heat. I'd avoid using it in walls however, as they stay much cooler.

If you're curious how humid your attic gets, grab one of these for about $10 and check it on a humid day. Should help you make your decision.

There are alternatives that are accurate, inexpensive, and easy to obtain. If you’re gonna have a pet, it’s your responsibility to do everything you can to ensure they are happy and healthy. :)

https://www.amazon.com/ThermoPro-TP50-Digital-Thermometer-Temperature/dp/B01H1R0K68/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=2UIH9W13T8SZH&keywords=reptile+thermometer+and+humidity+gauge&qid=1550954174&s=gateway&sprefix=reptile+therm&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&smid=A39VTLCPMNRL3Z

What's the humidity where you are?

I keep my collection both temperature and humidity controlled. I've never had any of these card curling issues with non-foil cards unless there was significant humidity.

Recommend rechargeable Silica Gel, something like: https://www.amazon.com/Dry-Silicagel-Indicating-Industry-Standard/dp/B014VMDEGE/ref=sr_1_10
And just a cheap little hydrometer to keep track: https://www.amazon.com/ThermoPro-TP50-Digital-Thermometer-Temperature/dp/B01H1R0K68/ref=sr_1_4

That said, if you just sleeve them you'll probably never notice any difference from any other card.

https://www.amazon.com/ThermoPro-TP50-Digital-Thermometer-Temperature/dp/B01H1R0K68

Get this so you know exactly what your temps and humidty are like in that closet.

What kind of nutrients are you using and are you following the feed chart exactly including making sure your pH is dialed in?

Can you link me to the LED you are using and how many hours is your grow light on?

A humidifier is really your call, depending on your needs and where you live (a dry region, temperate, or humid) I have a few plants that don't do well without one. I try to keep them around 55%-60% humidity. Anything higher has been hard for me to maintain even with a large humidifier in the room.

If you don't know what humidity you've got, try a hygrometer to measure it. Here's one I own.

Get a thermometer like this and you can be sure that it's not too hot or cold. I have one like this and just put it on top of my starter jar when it's not in the fridge.

If not set on top, then near the radiator on the ground or a shelf, maybe.

I've found the Nest to be off 1.5-2 degrees. I also feel like this sense settings kind of suck. This temperature band Nest talks about is just non-sense.

Get one of these to test your theory. Set it on top the Nest for a day or two.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H1R0K68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_..MFAbA2RV24W

I've elected to turn off all the "smart stuff" and only use my own schedule.

Is it the dial or the digital? For clarity - if it's the dial, just get rid of it, it's useless and get a digital one like this: https://www.pangeareptile.com/store/pangea-digital-reptile-thermometer-hygrometer.html or https://www.amazon.com/ThermoPro-TP50-Digital-Thermometer-Temperature/dp/B01H1R0K68. As /u/PocketMenagerie has suggested, it's very possible that he's just fine and is skittish and will always be skittish or just may take more time. And if it's changed recently, it's probably because of the recent change in weather.

I got this one which works pretty well! ThermoPro TP50 Digital Indoor Room Thermometer Hygrometer Monitor Temperature and Humidity Meter for Home Office Nursery Comfort, Min/Max Records https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01H1R0K68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_eRYmDb0S18K0B
Also, have you considered filtering the water before you put it in the humidifier/water the plants? Calatheas etc don’t like hard water.

We have the issue on the front of our house and a few unexpected trees has helped a ton. Now I gotta go buy something to trim these trees.

Also, a few of these https://www.amazon.com/ThermoPro-TP50-Digital-Thermometer-Temperature/dp/B01H1R0K68 will help to see where it's coolest. Start closing off the vents in the coolest rooms to force air into that hot room. Repeat seasonally and don't over-cool at night. Or buy an ecobee 3 with some sensors and do the same thing. Checking the vents in the attic or crawlspace helps since it could simply be a crap install or have gotten crushed by holiday decorations.

I have used the oven method one time, and glad I came back to check it out. I do not recommend using the oven, temps are unstable relatively, and the time needed to dry and the low temps needed, I can not achieve with my oven (full electric lowest temp is 140°f which is 60°c. I know it was unstable do to the filament getting too soft (recommend oven temp is 40°c, if I'm not mistaken).

So I would recommend food dehydrator, here are search results for you https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=filament+dehydrator&dwh=765d2638b300bca

My dry box has no design I just grab something similar to this https://www.amazon.com/Rubbermaid-Latching-Storage-Container-FG3Q2500CLMCB/dp/B002EGNTP6/ref=sr_1_34?gclid=CjwKCAjwmZbpBRAGEiwADrmVXhoB2wgZo-4gx7z0t49bn2TK9weXoN3pqk-2uQZ89k0uOZa3kjGyxhoC-4wQAvD_BwE&hvadid=174242580843&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9005648&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=10792283390857055523&hvtargid=kwd-123073099&hydadcr=15250_9600094&keywords=rubbermaid+bin&qid=1562786027&s=gateway&sr=8-34. The one I got was from family dollar, so it only costed like $7.

I used this for the feed holes https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2172384

Silica is enough when you have a ton of it, those little packets are fine for vacuum sealed stuff, IMO, but you want more than the 30-50 pellets that come in the single packet. I recommend https://www.amazon.com/Industry-Indicating-Desiccants-Dehumidifier-Air-Tight/dp/B01G5NTCWW/ref=sr_1_12_sspa?crid=3MHZ5INHY9XMM&keywords=silica+packets+for+moisture&qid=1562786465&s=gateway&sprefix=silica+p%2Caps%2C131&sr=8-12-spons&psc=1, take the money you save on the box (when bought from a bargain store) and put the difference into that or buy some cheaper stuff and add this to the mix https://www.amazon.com/ThermoPro-TP50-Digital-Thermometer-Temperature/dp/B01H1R0K68/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=3QHXOT7LWVYXF&keywords=humidity+gauge&qid=1562786618&s=gateway&sprefix=humidity%2Caps%2C128&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&smid=A39VTLCPMNRL3Z

Again the links above are for reference to visually understand what I am mentioning. You can obviously find this stuff cheaper elsewhere. I just prefer amazon or ebay for certain things (TBH 90% of everything I buy, haven't purchased in store items, other than food, for a long time now).

First thing you should do is get a hygrometer, that will tell you the humidity in your basement, along with the dehumidifier, that will tell you how damp your basement really is, strive for as low as possible humidity, below 45% is ideal. Then wash, wash, wash. Wash your floors, your ceilings, walls, and most importantly, those rugs. Use a cheap box fan to get the air moving around your basemeng. Leave your up stairs basement door open in the meantime while you go buy a dehumidifier. Do you have a hole in the corner of your basement for a sump pump? If so you can direct the water line from the dehumidifier into the hole, as long as your sump pump works. Leave the fan on all the time if you can help it, you want that air to move around, and eventually dry out with the dehumidifier. I have a shop in my basement, and when I moved into the house, it was the same way as yours, 98% humidity, and ahem, dank. After setting up the dehumidifier, it's the coolest, driest, most pleasant place in my whole house, and doesnt smell at all. Now it's always about 60degrees and 45% humidity.


ThermoPro TP50 Digital Hygrometer Indoor Thermometer Room Thermometer and Humidity Gauge with Temperature Humidity Monitor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H1R0K68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VwIlDbWD9WSYJ

I think outdoor is a whole other category- get a little $10 humidistat and measure your indoor humidity.
I think you'll find it's about 30-40%.

So after moving to OH a few months ago I noted a couple flecks of rust on a couple guns. Stunned, appalled, annoyed, peeved etc. all apply. Well, turns out one of my renewable dehumidifiers appeared to be dead - no color in the little window. Maybe I heated it too long.

So in addition to a replacement, I bought a couple of these cheap hygrometer/thermometers:
https://www.amazon.com/ThermoPro-Hygrometer-Thermometer-Humidity-Temperature/dp/B01H1R0K68/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484922904&sr=8-1&keywords=thermopro+tp50

$9. I sat them in my kitchen for a couple days just to compare, since they're on the cheap side. The temp was within a degree, the humidity read within about 3% - one said 35%, the other said 38% at one point.

Then I took them down by the safes. One I attached to the outside of a small 'safe' (the hygrometers have little magnets on them) and the other I put inside.

After a few hours (and after 12 hours...) the hygrometer on the inside read exactly the same as the one on the outside.

So the issue is either:

• these desiccants can only go so low
  
  
• the 'safe' isn't well sealed
  
  
• the hygrometers don't work
  
  I do think the hygrometers work, though.
  
  I didn't worry about this much when I lived out west, as 25% humidity was about typical where I lived at the time.
  
  

this or this, depending on if you want the thermometer/hygrometer inside or outside of the enclosure.

also, a thermostat is different from a thermometer. thermostats regulate temperature while thermometers measure.

also, you need at least two hides. one on the cool end and one on the warm end. your snake should be able to fit snugly, touching the sides of the hide when it's inside of it. half logs don't count as hides because they have two entrances. and clutter up the open space to make your snake feel less vulnerable.