Reddit Reddit reviews TOGGLER SNAPTOGGLE Drywall Anchor with included bolts for 1/4-20 Fastener size; holds 265 pounds each in 1/2-in drywall each by TOGGLER (4 Pack)

We found 17 Reddit comments about TOGGLER SNAPTOGGLE Drywall Anchor with included bolts for 1/4-20 Fastener size; holds 265 pounds each in 1/2-in drywall each by TOGGLER (4 Pack). Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Tools & Home Improvement
Hardware
TOGGLER SNAPTOGGLE Drywall Anchor with included bolts for 1/4-20 Fastener size; holds 265 pounds each in 1/2-in drywall each by TOGGLER (4 Pack)
Simple to use and easy to install molly anchor kit.Twice as strong as a regular toggle bolt - solid metal channelStraps act as installation tool, help install metal channel behind the wallKit includes 4pc SNAPTOGGLE 1/4-20 toggle bolts (no bolts)
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17 Reddit comments about TOGGLER SNAPTOGGLE Drywall Anchor with included bolts for 1/4-20 Fastener size; holds 265 pounds each in 1/2-in drywall each by TOGGLER (4 Pack):

u/TmcP · 17 pointsr/howto

Just use a toggle anchor, will take 5 minutes and hold better than some patch of plaster with another screw.

Snap toggles http://www.amazon.com/Toggler-Snaptoggle-Toggle-Drywall-Molly/dp/B005C4YE4M

u/gtcom · 4 pointsr/electricians

One of the guys I work with swear by those snaptoggle things (not an affiliate link).

I haven't tried them, personally, but I hear good things.

u/TahoeLager · 4 pointsr/hometheater

These ones are way way way better.

u/jonnyrocket · 3 pointsr/nonononoyes

You don't need to use studs anymore. 4 of these guys and you can hang 75 lbs off of drywall. I've hung two 3 screens recently this way, works great. The two most recent were 55" samsungs and they only weight about 35 lbs a piece.

u/DRabb1t · 3 pointsr/DIY

These snaptoggle toggle boltswork extremely well. There are a variety of sizes, so pick the ones that match the weight of what you are mounting. If you choose to follow the advice of others and mount plywood first, add the weight of the plywood and television together.

u/gryhrt · 3 pointsr/DIY

Fellow 1920s house owner here...obviously, CHWK's suggestions are best, but if that doesn't work I've had good success with these into the plaster and lathe.

u/computerguy0-0 · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

This is what you need.

DO NOT waste time trying to fill in the hole. Enlarge it a tiny bit, put this snap toggle in, and never worry about this issue again.

u/namegone · 1 pointr/DIY

I would use snap toggle anchors at a minimum.

amazon

u/troll-feeder · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

I used to hang TVs at work. We used some heavy duty toggle bolts to hold some heavy TVs in only drywall because the spacing didn't allow us to hit studs every time. These go up to 125lbs.


http://www.amazon.com/Toggler-Snaptoggle-Toggle-Drywall-Molly/dp/B005C4YE4M

u/scrager4 · 1 pointr/shopshowcase

These are cheaper, easier, more versitile, and require smaller holes. You can also get them in bulk for even cheaper. They are useful for hanging anything that requires more than a plastic anchor in drywall. They are tested to something like 150lb capacity each in 1/2" drywall. I use them for tv mounts, coat hooks, floating shelves, etc.

http://www.amazon.com/Toggler-Snaptoggle-Toggle-Drywall-Molly/dp/B005C4YE4M/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1381324713&sr=8-2&keywords=molly+toggle

u/Jarvicious · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

I agree with /u/niceflipflop that a couple of scale pics would be nice, but at a glance I'd definitely say you've got plaster walls. First thing's first, do you own or rent? That's going to make a big difference as to what advice I give as I've both owned and rented places with plaster walls.

If you rent, leave them the hell alone. Hell hath no fury like a rapidly deteriorating plaster wall and being a landlord myself who does all my own drywall/plaster you'll probably get charged a lot of money for those repairs. Stick to tape or 3M command strips and call it a day.

If you own the place, do yourself a favor and invest in a quality hammer drill. I bought a Dewalt because I knew I was going to abuse it, but for someone who is going to use it a few times a year, the model I linked will do fine. Some argue that you don't need a hammer drill to put a hole in masonry and they're wrong. Plus, it doubles as a standard, high power corded drill which is also an indispensable tool.

For interior (read: not masonry backed) walls, I've had good luck with these. They're low weight (~50 pounds or so) but great because you can avoid drilling and causing a mess like you have on your hands now. I never tried it, but I've heard putting a sturdy tape like duct tape can help prevent tear out as well. They also penetrate the slats and studs if you happen to hit one. This type of toggle fastener technically works, but I don't like them for plaster because of the size of hole you need to drill for them which generally causes more problems than it solves (1/2", if I remember). Definitely don't use anything like these as they'll just shred your plaster.

For exterior, structural, masonry walls, you need masonry screws and the 3/16" masonry bit to go with the 1/4" screws. If you have a hardware store near you, chances are they'll have them in packs far less than 100 and many stores sells Tapcons which often come with a bit included.

It seems daunting at first, drilling into a concrete/brick wall (I cut away an entire section to install a door. shudder) but once you get used to it it's just like mounting to any other wall surface. The thing you have to understand is just how thick your plaster is and subsequently how many threads you need to have inserted into the masonry to make it safe. Take this cross section for instance. If we look at the deepest your cabinet back is likely to be (.5") and add 1.5" for the plaster thickness that means the fastener has to penetrate 2" of material before it even hits the wall. The general rule is that for every length of fastener you have outside the functional threaded surface (the masonry wall), you need to have the same length of threads inside i.e. "A" has to equal "A". So, in this example, if you have 2" of material (.5" cabinet back and 1.5" plaster) you'd need ~4" masonry screws to safely hold your cabinet in place. For something as relatively light duty as a coat rack you could probably get away with 3.5" or so, but anything less and you're risking the fastener simply pulling out of the masonry walls, especially if your home is brick as the interior bricks are far softer than the exterior. Also I realize that not everyone is as tool hungry as I am, but an impact driver drives fasteners into masonry far better than a standard drill. You're more likely to strip them using a standard drill and frankly I use my impact more often than I do my drill, but we gutted our entire place so I understand not everyone wants a pile of tools.

u/twaddington · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Love these things. Used them to put up some Ikea shelves and they worked great. You can buy them on Amazon for fairly cheaply.

https://www.amazon.com/12-TOGGLER-SNAPTOGGLE-included-Fastener/dp/B005C4YE4M?th=1

u/onefreehour · 1 pointr/DIY

A cheap stud finder will help you locate the studs. if you can hit one stud it will be sufficient to support the TV. That being said these wall anchors are amazing if you can't find a stud. pop four of those in and it will hold the TV no problem!

u/TheHungryHeathen · 0 pointsr/DIY

You might try snap toggles. I was an installer for a commercial company and we hung a lot of cabinets and heavy cubicle systems with these. I hung my 60" plasma tv with them as well. They are rated at several hundred pounds. Check the specs at the website. But if you don't want to have to locate the studs, this may be a solution for you.

http://www.toggler.com/products/snaptoggle/overview.php

https://www.amazon.com/Toggler-Snaptoggle-Toggle-Drywall-Molly/dp/B005C4YE4M