Reddit reviews TorqArmV4

The cheap 1000w48v dd hub motors are OK.

I look at them as starter kits. You can buy one, slap it on your bike, and learn about how to build them, what you like, what you want. You can figure out what it's like to ride a 1000w bike or a 500w bike or a 2000w bike. Once you learn what you like they can be upgraded piecemeal pretty easily or whatever you want.

More advanced DIY people don't use kits directly, but tend to piece their own setups together based on what they want. But you got to start somewhere.

As far as these kits go themselves they are able to be cheap because they cut a lot of corners. They use odd ball connectors, cheap throttles, cheap displays, over sized controllers, and very low quality wheel builds.

The biggest problems people have tend to be the wheels themselves. The motors are fine, but since they use oversized spokes and very cheap rims they never can be tensioned correctly. This means over time spokes work themselves loose and loose spokes are very weak and break easily. As long as you true up the wheel when you get it and keep a eye on spoke tension then you eliminate most of the problems people have with them The next biggest problem is the throttles wearing out, but they are easy to replace.

But people do get thousands of miles out of these sorts of kits. Some people who commute regularly with them have gotten tens of thousands.

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The deal here is that most people cause themselves problems by skimping on the battery. The battery is the real power source. The motor is really just a transmission.

If I had to choose between a low-quality kit and high battery kit versus a middle quality kit and middle quality battery.. I would choose the high quality battery with bottom barrel kit 100% of the time. No question.

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If you want to avoid headaches...

https://em3ev.com/shop/?prod_cat_=ebike-battery-parts

Also need to get:

https://www.amazon.com/Grin-Technologies-Universal-Electric-ebikes/dp/B00K60C67Y

Those are very substantial torque arms and will save your bike.

Grin and Em3ev also has some good kits to pick from. But I would blow your budget on decent battery first then motor kit with whatever is left over.

Em3ev has a bad-ass little 3kw motor kit that is very affordable. Keep in mind that it does use motorcycle rims.. at that power level bicycle parts are worthless. I recommend one of Grin's kits.. Mxus cassette kit is very good and not super heavy and would be appropriate for a bicycle. Grin has a larger DD45 kit that will max out what you can do with a bicycle and it is pretty affordable as well. I am not sure about the shipping situation.

If you already have a bike to convert and you don't want to skimp on quality too much, you can probably do it for around $600.

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Plan for around $250 for a direct-drive motor kit, though you might be able to get one for cheaper if you shop around. You'll need to check a few things to make sure you get a kit that fits your bike:

Wheel size - Match this. Don't try to stick a kit with a 26" wheel on a 29er, for example, unless you know what you're doing and you're explicitly trying to alter the handling characteristics of the vehicle.

Brake type - It's getting rare to find a kit that isn't disc brake compatible, but it's still worth checking to make sure.

Dropout spacing - The vast majority of front hub kits are designed to fit in forks with 100mm dropout spacing, and rear motors are built for 135mm dropout spacing. This won't be an issue on most bikes, but some folding bikes will have narrower spacing, as will many older bikes (90s and earlier, mostly). Also keep in mind that these cheap motors use old-style solid axles, so they're only compatible with bikes built for solid axle or QR. A few thru-axle motors exist, but they're not cheap.

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For the battery, you don't just want to buy the cheapest thing available. Many of the cheapest lithium packs use unbranded or mystery-brand Chinese cells, which often tend to not meet the stated specs, wear out faster than expected, and in extreme circumstances, might even be less safe than a pack built with name-brand cells. LunaCycle and Em3ev are probably the largest and most reputable sellers of high-quality ebike batteries, but if you're on a very tight budget, UnitPackPower is a good, more budget-friendly option, as long as you keep in mind that they sell packs with unbranded cells alongside their packs with good cells. Shop carefully, get a pack with good cells, and make sure you get a pack that can handle the power that your chosen motor kit will demand.

For example, here's a 48v10Ah pack from UnitPackPower for $300 that uses either Samsung or LG cells (probably just whatever is cheaper at the time, but they're both good cell manufacturers), and is rated for a continuous power draw of 25A, making it suitable for most "500w" or "750w" rated motor kits. This battery should be good for around 20 miles of range at 20mph, or 13 miles at 28mph.

Note: All kits peak well over their stated wattage, so take their rating with a grain of salt when choosing a battery. If you buy a 48v 750w motor kit and pair it with a battery that can only handle 16A continuous output, you're going to have a bad time.

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And finally, remember to include a torque arm in your budget. There are a lot of flimsy knockoffs out there, primarily of a design that was found to be defective and subsequently discontinued by GrinTech back in 2010, so avoid those. If you're not sure what to get, you can't go wrong with the GrinTech V2 or V3 for front hub motors, or the V4 for rear hub motors.

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Add a few dollars for some wire and wiring connectors (if you buy your motor kit and your battery separately, they're very unlikely to come with matching connectors), and you'll be good to go for around $600.

It seems that your comment contains 1 or more links that are hard to tap for mobile users.
I will extend those so they're easier for our sausage fingers to click!


Here is link number 1 - Previous text "V2"

Here is link number 2 - Previous text "V3"

Here is link number 3 - Previous text "V4"



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^Please ^PM ^/u/eganwall ^with ^issues ^or ^feedback! ^| ^Delete

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K60C67Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are for the rear, but you can get ones for front fork. It will reinforce them drop outs so you dont mess them up!

1. You can put it just about anywhere it will fit. It could get hot so stuffing it in a bag might cause issues but it hasn't yet for me.
   
   
2. I don't think so but wait for someone smarter to respond. I dunno harder to do wheelies?
   
   
3. Yes, there is a strong chance of this happening if you don't use torque arms. Here is a quality torque arm form amazon

100? the fuck? it's 38$ https://www.amazon.com/Grin-Technologies-Universal-Electric-ebikes/dp/B00K60C67Y