Reddit Reddit reviews TP-Link 24 Port Gigabit Ethernet Switch | Plug and Play | Sturdy Metal w/Shielded Ports | Rackmount | Fanless | Lifetime Protection | Unmanaged (TL-SG1024)

We found 16 Reddit comments about TP-Link 24 Port Gigabit Ethernet Switch | Plug and Play | Sturdy Metal w/Shielded Ports | Rackmount | Fanless | Lifetime Protection | Unmanaged (TL-SG1024). Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Computer Networking
Computer Networking Switches
Electronics
Computers & Accessories
TP-Link 24 Port Gigabit Ethernet Switch | Plug and Play | Sturdy Metal w/Shielded Ports | Rackmount | Fanless | Lifetime Protection | Unmanaged (TL-SG1024)
24 10/100/1000M RJ45 portsSupports MAC address self-learning and auto MDI/MDIXStandard 19-inch rack-mountable steel caseAll ports support Full/half duplex transfer mode for 10Mbps/100Mbps and Full duplex transfer mode for 1000MbpsSupports IEEE 802.3X flow control for full-duplex mode and back pressure flow control for half-duplex mode
Check price on Amazon

16 Reddit comments about TP-Link 24 Port Gigabit Ethernet Switch | Plug and Play | Sturdy Metal w/Shielded Ports | Rackmount | Fanless | Lifetime Protection | Unmanaged (TL-SG1024):

u/nalybuites · 123 pointsr/cableporn

Here's the composition of the rack:

  • NavePoint 12U Network Rack
  • TP-Link TL-SG1024: 24 port rackmount switch
  • TP-Link TL-SG1016PE: 16 port rackmount power over ethernet switch (needed for the Wi-Fi access points)
  • TP-Link TL-R600VPN: Rackmount router w/ dual-WAN and VPN
  • Rackmount Power w/ surge protection
  • Rack shelf: Used to hold modem and NAS
  • Patch Panel: 24-port Cat6 patch panel (wires go in the pack via punchdown connection, and you run patch cables to the switches)
  • 12" Patch cables: For connecting between the patch panel, swicthes, other on-rack devices
  • Synology 416play NAS: Movies, music, pictures, etc. 32 TB in all.

    Elsewhere in the house/other useful parts:

  • Keystone Cat6 jacks: one per bedroom, 4 in my home office, 4 in the media room (not built yet), 3 in the family room
  • 1-, 2-, 3-, and 4-hole keystone wall plates: Buy the number of holes you want and just pop in the keystone jacks
  • Blank keystone inserts: For when you have too many holes in the keystone plates
  • Ubiquiti AC Pro x 3: Wi-Fi access points, roughly center of the house on each floor (basement, first, second)
  • Punchdown tool: For doing the punchdown connections on the patch panel and on each of the keystone Cat6 plugs in each room
  • Extra rack screws and washers
  • J-Hook: There are two hooks on each wall, holding service loops for the Cat6 and Coax, respectively.

    Useful things I learned:

  • I was originally going to run the wires myself, but never could find the time. Also Cat6 is expensive when not purchased in wholesale quantities (< 10,000 ft). So we hired a local electrician to run the actual wires. It took two of them about 1.5 days to run everything. This was well worth the money, since the project would have taken many months to do in the evenings/on weekends with a toddler running around.
  • I did all the wall terminations. Since they were punchdowns, it was easy and took one evening after work. The electricians would have charged me another half-day of labor.
  • I did all the network rack work. This also took one evening after work.
  • Do NOT buy electrical/networking equipment from a big box hardware store. Always go to a specialized retailer, like an electrician supply store. Their prices will be 1/20th that of the big box store, you won't have to have anything shipped, and their employees actually know what they are talking about. So if you're looking for something that you don't know the name of, you can usually describe it.
  • Newer construction may have fire breaks/blocks/stops which prevent fire and gases from traveling up the inside of the walls. This makes fire move more slowly and give you more time to evacuate. However, it also means you might need to drill holes/patch walls in order to run wires vertically.
  • Put in a service loop. If you ever need to re-terminate for any reason (like replacing a patch panel), it will give you extra cable to work with. Do the same thing inside your walls behind the wall plates, since you might have to do the same thing there as well.
  • Buy networking gear that is rated for the same speed (i.e., gigabit). Your network will only be as fast as the slowest part of it.
  • Watch out for network loops. This is really easy to do and will cause your router to crash or perform suboptimally. I spent >2 hours debugging on of these as a result of connecting my router to itself by way of both switches.
u/CBRjack · 9 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I'll try, if you have any questions or if I wasn't really clear on something, ask away and I'll try to explain it better.

A normal home network is quite simple, in order starting from your ISP's line coming into your house, you usually have a modem, a router, a switch and an access point. Most consumer routers are actually a combo router-switch-access point all in one. They provide you a few ports for wired connection and the wifi in a single convenient unit. What you can also do is split up this combo unit to be able to place each device in a better location. If you have your modem in the basement, putting the router next to it makes sense, but putting the access point there often means it will be completely unusable on the second floor. Don't be afraid, separate unit aren't really more complex, you just need to wire them together. I'll recommend a few unit throughout, but feel free to ask for a second opinion!

Personally, after witnessing the extreme difference in quality between home all-in-one routers and dedicated separate unit, I will strongly recommend you go with a separate unit setup. Ubiquiti makes super great hardware that won't cost you much more than a combo but will give you much more performance. Here are the recommended devices, I'll explain the setup right after :

  • Router : Ubiquiti Edgerouter X
  • Switch : TP-Link Gigabit switch (8 port / 16 port / 24 port)
  • Access point : Ubiquiti Unifi AP AC Lite

    So, your provider will supply you with a modem (or you will buy your own) and plug that directly in the DSL/Cable/Fiber line that comes from outside. Then, you will plug the router in the modem. The router will allow all the devices in your home to communicate with the internet. In the router, you will plug the switch. In the switch, you can plug all the lines that are going through your house. You can also plug several switches in the router, or a switch in another switch (example : a switch in the office plugged into a line that goes to the second floor, a switch on the second floor, that will work). Also plugged in the switch : the access point. You can plug it (or them if you buy more than one) directly in the switch, or at the end of a long line that goes where you want the access point to be. For a two stories house, you might get good result by having a central AP on the first floor, or an AP on each floor, depending on construction, materials and interference.

    So now, we have the classic modem > router > switch > AP, using separate devices for greater flexibility and performance. Once it's all plugged in, time to set it up. For the router, simple, follow the wizard. For the switch, these switches are plug and play, no config needed. For the AP (or APs), install the software on your PC, follow the wizard, done! The controller software is used to configure the APs, but is not needed for the APs to work. The APs, once they get their config from the software, are completely standalone and independent, you can turn the PC off without issues.

    Hope this answers your questions, as I said, ask anything that wasn't answered and I'll try to explain it.
u/v-_-v · 9 pointsr/HomeNetworking

> but I do want a very reliable, modular, but manageable home network

Mah nig ... like-minded fellow.

 


> I will be subscribing to Comcast

I am so sorry for you :(

 

Ok, let's tackle wifi first as there is more to talk about here.

First off, yes, wireless access point (AP) is the correct name, very good, seriously, most people just call them "router" or thingamajig or whatever else.

Second, also very good on the idea to decouple everything from each other and to put multiple APs around the house. So many ask for a magical all-in-one device that can reach the moon with wifi and act as a NAS for a small country via one USB attached HDD.

So, the device: Ubiquiti UniFi

Why: it does what you want: the seamless handoff. Basically this allows you to roam around your house without dropping signal, as the APs know when to hand you off to the nearest one.

This is a feature that is rarely found in consumer grade gear, and works decently in even fewer devices. On the UniFi devices it is so good that it does not drop a VoIP call when transitioning.

There are various versions of the device, N is the normal standard, only on the 2.4Ghz band (use Wifi Analyzer on Android to check how your spectrum is), then there is Long Range, Pro, and even AC.

IMHO they are not worth the extra money, or rather, in your case where most devices are wired and with your internet speed, you would not have great benefits from faster wifi.

These devices are around or under $70 on Amazon.

> is there a simple way to have more than wireless access point

More than 1 or what are you after here?

If it's with the UniFi devices, you can add as many as you want, just need the ports on a switch.

 

Router: Unifi EdgeRouter Lite (ERL)

It's based on Vyatta, a Debian OS made for routers. It is super stable, a beast of a workhorse, and it has a ton of advanced features. IPsec VPN is probably the only advanced feature you will really care for (I assume).

It's a router and only a router, so no wifi and no switch. It has 3 ports, which should be plenty for your setup (naturally you will want a switch or two).

Is it overkill for your setup? Maybe, but for $100 it's (again IMHO) the best router that that kind of money can buy. People will tell you that it is not very user friendly, and it might have been in the past, or to users that are not a bit technical, but the new GUI is all you will need to use to create a basic home network setup.

Mikrotik is another manufacturer of prosumer / cheap but good enterprise level gear, but just spec wise, the ERL is superior.

 

I'll link you a few unmanaged 24 port switches. Let me know if you want managed switches instead.

The main difference between managed and unmanaged is that the former gives you more control over your network, and if you want to do some things, like fancy segmentation of the network (VLANs), or QoS within the LAN (unnecessary in the home really), then you will need a managed switch.

The Trend-Net TEG-S24Dg is the second cheapest 24 port switch (gig of course) that I would buy.

I have had an 8 port Trend-Net switch for about 5 years with 0 troubles. The one linked above is metal casing, which helps with cooling and rigidity, and is a small form factor, so you can place it on a desk if you need to, and it's not a huge rack-mounted 19" beast (it's 11 inches long).

The TP-Link TL-SG1024 is a full size, rack mountable switch. No clue how it performs, but a bunch of reviews say it is good.

As you can see the difference in price is very small ($100 vs $108). Pick the one you like best or another all together. :)

One thing I would say is that I would not go with a 10/100 switch, as switches limit your internal speed, which can far exceed your internet speeds. For example file transfers between the NAS and your devices. Gig is the way to go, I wish 10 Gb would be cheaper, as I would go for it myself.

 

> Cables & walls

If you are running cables, do it once, and do it well: run Cat 6a cables.

Cat 6a cables are shielded, which protects from EMI (interference), and can run 10Gb up to 100m. Be sure to get Cat 6 A, and not just Cat 6, as Cat 6 (without the A) is only rated for 10 Gb at 40 meters or less.

The question you might be asking: why not just go with Cat 5e, which does 1Gb speeds to 100 meters just fine and is cheaper?

Well, most Cat 5e that is sold around, is not shielded, and you want shielded to run in the walls due to electrical cables and grounding systems. Also, you are tearing holes in home walls. Even if you are there for only a few years, why save a few dollars when you can do the job right?

 

In addition, you will want a bunch of faceplates, amazon or monoprice will have loads for cheap, a bunch of RJ-45 ends (don't skimp to much on these, some are really shitty), and potentially a patch panel.

A patch panel is a thing where you terminate your cable runs into it, and it allows you to plug an ethernet cable into it.

Like this

Basically this makes it so that you don't have to move around the cables which could damage them over time, and gives you a nice organized way to label each run. That being said, it's not mandatory, it's just something nice.

 

I know this is a wall of text, but I think I should have covered all your points.

You probably have more questions, ask away :)

u/washu_k · 7 pointsr/HomeNetworking

You need a switch. What switch depends on your needs. If you don't care about VLANs and other managed features then a cheap dumb switch will do fine. Something like this would do. If you need more features then the price goes up. The switch that your friend recommended would do fine, but it is more expensive because it supports PoE. If you don't need PoE you can get cheaper managed switches.

u/kill-dash-nine · 4 pointsr/homelab

So when I originally moved in to my house last year, I set things up in a very temporary setup that became more permanent than I was hoping. I also had to bring another box home from my office when we moved locations and we no longer had a dedicated internet connection so I couldn't expose anything directly to the internet.

I've been looking at setups from everyone for a while now, getting ideas of what I needed and I finally settled on the following:

u/mikaey00 · 3 pointsr/techsupportgore

For those that are curious:

  • The stack on the far left contains six Orange Pi Zero's on top and one Orange Pi Zero Plus on the bottom.
  • To the right of the stack is a Raspberry Pi 3.
  • In the center is an Orange Pi PC 2.
  • On the far right are two Rock64's. The one on top is the 2GB model, and the one on the bottom is a 4GB model. (I have one more 2GB model on order.)
  • In the back left is an iSelector 10-port charging station. (I went with this one because it advertised that it could put out 2.4A on all 10 ports.)
  • In the back right is a MediaSonic ProRaid 2-bay SATA enclosure, with two Seagate 2TB Barracudas loaded into it.
  • On the bottom is a TP-Link 24-port gigabit switch. (It's mounted vertically because I made the mistake of mounting it in the front of the rack; if I had mounted it the right way, the door would have pushed against the ends of the cables and probably caused them to exceed their MBR. One of these days I'll move it to the back of the rack.)

    What am I using them for?

  • All of the Orange Pis, the Raspberry Pi, and the 2GB Rock64 board are running a program to search for a solution to the Magic Square of Squares problem. It's a custom program written in C, so it doesn't need much memory or disk space; mainly what it needs is processor power. The Orange Pis are cheap, which makes them a good fit for this.
  • The 2GB Rock64 is also running a bot to search for cut-and-paste moves on Wikipedia.
  • The 4GB Rock64 is going to be my new web server. (Right above it, just out the frame, is an HP ProLiant DL140 G1 that this board will be replacing. The HP is probably more powerful, but it's loud and it sucks up more electricity than the Rock64 does.) I picked this one because it supports USB3, it has gigabit ethernet, it has 4GB of ram (which is the same as the HP that this will be replacing), and it didn't cost an arm and a leg.
  • The other 2GB Rock64 (when it comes) will be used to network share a 4TB backup drive. (Right now, the drive is hooked up to a VM on another server.)
  • All of these boards are running Armbian, except for the Raspberry Pi (which is running their Debian distro).
u/tanj92 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I just had my house wired up with Cat6 last week. I'm not an expert but I have some basic networking knowledge.

I purchased the following items:

u/CbcITGuy · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

> One 24 port switch would be the best way. But in reality it won't make much difference in any case unless those switches are

24 port switch will cost more than the current estimated cost, I'm guessing OP is attempting to save money.

Edit: However, I did Amazon a 24 port switch and came up with this Which would be an absolute perfect solution for your question.

u/dadsized · 1 pointr/homelab

Looks like this should fit the bill TP-Link 24-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch | Plug and Play | Metal | Rackmount | Fanless | Limited Lifetime (TL-SG1024) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BU0EKW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_sjQOCbDZKNSJY

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Yes, but that doesn't mean you need to have them all connected. Just run the cables from each room to a central location and label them all. Then you only need to plug the ones you are going to use into the switch.

You can get a 24 port switch pretty cheap though if you want to connect them all.

https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Unmanaged-Rackmount-Lifetime-TL-SG1024/dp/B003BU0EKW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1506691857&sr=8-3&keywords=24+port+switch

u/fedsam · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Sounds like the unmanaged switch will be fine for you. TP-Link 24-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Rackmount Switch (TL-SG1024) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BU0EKW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ArBLzbNXRX2T2
Something like this

u/AndroidDev01 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

I think staying with 6 is fine. Most people will say if you are wiring now to go with 6a because the cost is similar but I find it is thicker and harder to bend. If you really want to future proof then you could go with 6a but right know 10Gbps is a little excessive.


AP wise you call Ubiquity expensive but the newest UAP-AC-PRO is the same price as the Linksys and will be much better, it is hard to find now because of limited supply. Sorry Its actually $20 more



I would spend a little extra for the Edgerouter Lite over the X but they are similar.



Unless I missed it I don't think you mentioned how many wall jacks you will have. So I will assume 24 drops. A good 24 port non POE switch is This normally $160 is on sale for $100
And This for POE only 8 ports though

EDIT

Sorry didn't release the netgear switch wasn't all POE you might be better off with a cheap 8-10 Port switch and POE Injectors


Like /u/topcat5 said you can get UAP-AC-LITE for $90.

u/Bradl450 · 1 pointr/cableporn

TP-LINK TL-SG1024 10/100/1000Mbps 24-Port Gigabit 19-inch Rackmountable Switch, 48Gbps Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BU0EKW/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_9kgSub067FXZH
They are not managed switches though. Was not needed for this install. But those hp 1810 are very reasonable for a managed switch
Thanks for the tip!

u/dracoix · 1 pointr/homelab

I plan on running the following at 100% cpu 24/7 most of the time.

  • i7 920 + 1x 3.5 HDD (+ GT 640 if I do CUDA/OpenCL work)
  • i7 720QM laptop (monitor forced off, gpu idle)
  • 2x E5-2670 + 1x 3.5 HDD
  • i7 4770 with 4x 3.5 HDD & 2x SSD + GTX 950 (workstation/battlestation/node controller in vbox)
  • A6-5400K with 3x 3.5 & 1x SSD (my old multi-purpose server I downgraded because the A8-660K ran too hot in a 2U)

    I currently use an old WRT54G and a 4-port TP-Link gigabit switch, that'll be upgraded to this 24 port and my A6 will take the blunt of internet passthru once again.

    I use 3 monitors (2x 1080's and a 5:4 lcd vga monitor that use to be on a KVM switch for my 2U server and laptop when needed).

    I also have a random assortment of a 60W picoITX 5.25 bay computer, an old HTPC, and possibly an old Core 2 Duo that can easily be retrofitted into a 2U. I don't plan on using them (low CPU performance per watt) unless I go big or go home.

    I just need to stop using laptops on wifi.

    Basically anything with at least 4GB of ram and a passmark of 5K+ I plan on plugging in.
u/thegeekpea · 1 pointr/cableporn

I was looking at this TP-Link:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BU0EKW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GRswzbGTHG9TG

But only 5 year warranty.

This Netgear has lifetime warranty:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002CWPW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_TSswzbEF9ZDNZ


Is the TP-Link still the better choice? If so, why?

I'm also getting fiber (1Gig).

u/sarge-m · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

By satellites I'm referring to dish satellites that you may want to mount on the exterior of the house for any cable service you want such as DirecTV and similar providers. Here's a picture.

If you wish to have the ability to hot swap the Internet feed to any room at any time, all you need to do is find the coax cable that currently runs into the house. From there, you extend that cable with this coupler only if the cable doesn't reach your preferred central point, and then that goes to the central point. So then all the coaxial cables are heading to the central point, you should always label regardless of how much you think you memorize where each cable heads to. Now you do the same thing, get the coaxial with the ISP feed, put a coupler on it and pick the corresponding coaxial cable the modem will be in and attach it to the coupler. Like I mentioned before, I would recomneed having the modem sit in the central point. It'll have the same outcome as if you were putting it in a room but this just ensures all your equipment is one place and prevents you running longer cables from one point to another because the modem is in one room and the central point is another.

Now for the ethernet wiring, one hole slightly bigger the size of a golf ball should do for coaxial and ethernet. This is an example of a good install. All the cabling goes to one location in the house, the cables are securely punched down to a patch panel which the patch panel is securely mounted on a wall rack. Here's some items that will get you a clean and professional look while not breaking the bank: