Reddit Reddit reviews TP-Link 8 Port Gigabit Ethernet Network Switch | Ethernet Splitter | Plug-and-Play | Traffic Optimization | Unmanaged (TL-SG1008D)

We found 33 Reddit comments about TP-Link 8 Port Gigabit Ethernet Network Switch | Ethernet Splitter | Plug-and-Play | Traffic Optimization | Unmanaged (TL-SG1008D). Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Computer Networking
Computer Networking Switches
Electronics
Computers & Accessories
TP-Link 8 Port Gigabit Ethernet Network Switch | Ethernet Splitter | Plug-and-Play | Traffic Optimization | Unmanaged (TL-SG1008D)
PLUG-AND-PLAY - Easy setup with no configuration or no software neededETHERNET SPLITTER - Connectivity to your router or modem router for additional wired connections (laptop, gaming console, printer, etc)8 Ports GIGABIT ETHERNET - 8 10/100/1000 Mbps Gigabit auto-negotiation RJ45 ports greatly expand network capacityCOST EFFECTIVE - Fanless Quiet Design, Desktop designRELIABLE - IEEE 802.3x flow control provides reliable data transferUP to 80% Power Saving - Automatically adjusts power consumption according to the link status and cable lengthAUTO-NEGOTIATION - Supports Auto-MDI/MDIX, eliminating the need for crossover cables2-YEAR WARRANTY and unlimited 24/7 technical support for FREE
Check price on Amazon

33 Reddit comments about TP-Link 8 Port Gigabit Ethernet Network Switch | Ethernet Splitter | Plug-and-Play | Traffic Optimization | Unmanaged (TL-SG1008D):

u/nsweaves · 8 pointsr/eero

Here's what I have at home. Works great:
TP-Link TL-SG1008D 8-Port Unmanaged Gigabit Network Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EVGIYG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZIKOBbD7Y7KBY

u/EricGRIT09 · 6 pointsr/pcgaming

I'll backup the fact that you should get a switch, but make sure it is a gigabit switch. Something like this would work: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Ethernet-Desktop-TL-SG1008D/dp/B001EVGIYG/ref=sr_1_7?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1482850148&sr=1-7&keywords=gigabit+switch

Make sure people know to bring Ethernet cables, or go to monoprice.com and get some cables.

People will undoubtedly forget to download some games/files/etc. before coming over and you really don't want 7 people downloading games and updates over that 50mbps connection when you just want to game. Either setup a share on your computer or if you have a second, spare, PC you can share files from that. I just use an FTP server but you can use Windows file sharing or something as well - those gigabit speeds via a new switch will come in handy here. Forget about using WiFi for anything related to this LAN, if at all possible.

Have fun!

u/imlose444 · 5 pointsr/buildapc

Just buy an unmanaged switch, you can find perfectly sufficient ones for home use for like 20$.

like this

u/braxxytaxi · 5 pointsr/techsupport

You might want to check if you can run multiple devices off your connection as they may only provide you with one IP address (similar to a normal home service from an ISP).

In this case you will need a router to connect up all your devices. Any standard home router will do the trick. I use an ASUS RT N66U - 4 wired gigabit ports, 802.11n Wi-Fi and it's nice and speedy with my 100mbit WAN connection. $129.99 @ Amazon.

However if your uni/college allows for multiple devices per room (ie, they provide you with multiple IP addresses) you will be able to get away with using an ethernet switch. As mentioned in other comments, opt a model with faster Gigabit ports as nowadays there is really no big price difference and the extra bandwidth could come in handy one day. A basic 5-port TP-Link Gigabit switch is $19.99 @ Amazon (or you can get an 8-port model for $24.99 @ Amazon).

Don't get a hub. I honestly haven't seen one on sale for years anyway, good luck trying to track one down!

u/rockker60 · 4 pointsr/HomeNetworking

As a test, connect the computer straight to the line you ran just to verify you get 100 Mbps.

Once verified as 100Mbps, as others say you really need a switch. Plug all into the switch. You want WiFi - so assign the TP-Link router an ip, turn off DHCP, plug an ethernet wire from the switch to one of the yellow ports on the router.

This switch should work. This is the right way to do it and doesn't cost alot.

u/Bilbo_Fraggins · 3 pointsr/Ubiquiti

If all those devices are on the same network, ERL and a $20 gig switch will do you. Bridging also disables offload, so in fact you'd need a separate switch. In the ERL all ports are for different networks.

Edit: If your wireless router is close by and has gig switch ports, you can probably even just use that as your switch. Disable DHCP server on the wireless router and plug from ERL to any LAN port, and wireless router is an AP/switch. More detailed directions.

u/n_nick · 3 pointsr/battlestations

Here is my build list formated for reddit

Group | Name | Price | Quantity | Total | Link
--- | --- | --- | --- | --- | ---
Pc | (Everything Inside the case) | | | |
$1,601.62 | Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor | $347.00 | 1 | $347.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012M8LXQW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Cooler Master Hyper D92 54.8 CFM Rifle Bearing CPU Cooler | $44.80 | 1 | $44.80 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NXLYE4G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Gigabyte GA-Z170X-UD5 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $171.49 | 1 | $171.49 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012N6EW6G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory | $129.99 | 1 | $129.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OTJZTZE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $97.99 | 1 | $97.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OAJ412U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Hitachi HD​S723020BLA​642 | $58.00 | 3 | $174.00 | EBay
| EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card | $459.99 | 1 | $459.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I60OGUK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| EVGA 850W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $90.39 | 1 | $90.39 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KYK1CC6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| XFX AMD Radeon HD 5450 1GB | $29.99 | 2 | $59.98 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005IUW7YE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| PWM Female to 4 x PWM Male Computer Case Fan Splitter | $6.50 | 2 | $13.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DYQRFY6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Sabrent 2.5" SSD & SATA Hard Drive to Desktop 3.5" | $12.99 | 1 | $12.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UN550AC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 80MM 5000RPM Fan | $0.00 | 2 | $0.00 |
| 92MM 5000RPM Fan | $0.00 | 4 | $0.00 |
Monitors | | | | |
$744.66 | Seiki Pro SM28UTR 28-Inch 4K UHD 3840x2160 | $195.69 | 1 | $195.69 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013XWQF28/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| AOC e2460Sd 24-Inch Widescreen LED Monitor | $142.99 | 3 | $428.97 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C99MUHQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Dell 17" 5:4 | $30.00 | 4 | $120.00 | EBay
Cables | | | | |
$137.77 | Cable Matters Gold Plated DisplayPort to DisplayPort Cable 10 Feet | $11.99 | 1 | $11.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005H3Q5E0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Cable Matters Active DisplayPort to DVI Male to Female Adapter | $19.99 | 2 | $39.98 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDT01TO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| DVI Male to Female 90 Degree Adapter Connector | $4.43 | 3 | $13.29 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008X0ZJZ0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 15ft 28AWG CL2 Dual Link DVI-D Cable - Black | $10.47 | 3 | $31.41 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020902&p_id=2760&seq=1&format=2
| 15ft Super VGA M/M | $5.69 | 4 | $22.76 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10201&cs_id=1020101&p_id=3622&seq=1&format=2
| 15ft USB 2.0 A Male to A Female Extension | $1.87 | 5 | $9.35 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=103&cp_id=10303&cs_id=1030304&p_id=5435&seq=1&format=2
| 25ft hdmi cable | $8.99 | 1 | $8.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SKVMHI4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Desk Accesseries | | | | |
$263.49 | Perixx PX-5200 Cherry MX Blue | $72.91 | 1 | $72.91 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NY45NCY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Logitech C310 Webcam | $31.93 | 1 | $31.93 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003LVZO8S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Lapel Mics | $6.50 | 1 | $6.50 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DJOIHE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| FingerPrint Reader | $12.58 | 1 | $12.58 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HHHP7C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Mouse Pad | $8.99 | 1 | $8.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GB0IF50/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Headset Func HS260 | $79.99 | 1 | $79.99 | https://www.amazon.com/FUnc-FUNC-HS-260-1ST-fUnc-HS-260/dp/B00HH3H83U
| Altec ACS 54 - Speaker | $0.00 | 1 | $0.00 |
| Logitech G700S | $50.59 | 1 | $50.59 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BFOEY3Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Audio Accesseries | | | | |
$58.33 | BEHRINGER MICROAMP HA400 | $24.99 | 1 | $24.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KIPT30/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 5-Pack 6.35mm Male to 3.5mm Female Adapter | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XAQD4YA/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 3.5mm Male to 2 x 3.5mm Female Splitter Cable | $3.99 | 1 | $3.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0081ZBNI4/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Coupler 3.5 mm Female - 3.5 mm Female Stereo or Mono | $3.93 | 1 | $3.93 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068O4N/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 3 feet Slim 3.5mm Stereo Audio Cable - M/M | $2.71 | 2 | $5.42 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004G3UK5C/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 3-Feet 3.5mm Stereo Male to Female Extension Cable, 5-Pack | $12.01 | 1 | $12.01 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SWOJLSS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Lighting | | | | |
$86.88 | Studio Designs Swing Arm Lamp Black | $24.75 | 2 | $49.50 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I2S7MHQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Lutron TT-300NLH-BL Credenza Lamp Dimmer Black | $14.83 | 1 | $14.83 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00024BJZE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Triple Outlet Swivel Adapter, White | $3.27 | 1 | $3.27 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HJBENG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Daylight LED Light Bulb 15W | $9.64 | 2 | $19.28 | https://www.walmart.com/ip/Great-Value-GVRLA1850ND-Great-Value-LED-15W-A19-Light-Bulb/38596922
Cable Managment | | | | |
$18.81 | 100 Velcro Ties | $5.00 | 2 | $10.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E1Y5O6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 100 Releasable cable ties | $2.47 | 3 | $7.41 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=105&cp_id=10520&cs_id=1052012&p_id=5795&seq=1&format=2
| Cable Clip nais | $0.70 | 2 | $1.40 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=105&cp_id=10520&cs_id=1052006&p_id=5834&seq=1&format=2
Power | | | | |
$53.13 | Monster MP AV 750 Audio Video PowerCenter | $18.99 | 1 | $18.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004ETIKH8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| AmazonBasics 6-Outlet Surge Protector Power Strip 2-Pack | $12.99 | 1 | $12.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TP1BWMK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 3 Outlet Single-Tap Wall Tap | $4.00 | 2 | $8.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007XQORTO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 15ft 16AWG Power Cord Cable | $5.20 | 1 | $5.20 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10228&cs_id=1022801&p_id=5287&seq=1&format=2
| 10ft 18AWG Right Angle Power Cord Cabl | $2.65 | 3 | $7.95 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10228&cs_id=1022809&p_id=7677&seq=1&format=2
Network | | | | |
$33.98 | TP-LINK 8-Port Gigabit Desktop Switch | $22.99 | 1 | $22.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EVGIYG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 5-Pack, Cat6 Ethernet Patch Cable in Blue 3 Feet | $10.99 | 1 | $10.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C2B81K6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Monitor Mount | | | | |
$215.27 | Arm wall mount | $17.54 | 3 | $52.62 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082821&p_id=12232&seq=1&format=2
| Top wall mount bracket | $4.80 | 4 | $19.20 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082821&p_id=3005&seq=1&format=2
| Center Monitor Mount | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082821&p_id=4564&seq=1&format=2
| 2x8 | $7.47 | 3 | $22.41 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/Top-Choice-Common-2-in-x-8-in-x-10-ft-Actual-1-5-in-x-7-25-in-x-10-ft-Lumber/4082916
| 2x4 | 2.55 | 1 | $2.55 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/Common-2-in-x-4-in-x-8-ft-Actual-1-5-in-x-3-5-in-x-8-ft-Stud/1000074211
| 3" clamp | $5.98 | 6 | $35.88 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-QUICK-GRIP-3-in-Clamp/50214643
| 4" Hinge | $2.81 | 2 | $5.62 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gatehouse-4-in-H-Oil-Rubbed-Bronze-Interior-Exterior-Mortise-Door-Hinge/4772785
| Wood Screws | $9.00 | 1 | $9.00 | Lowes
| Assorted brackets/hardware | $25.00 | 1 | $25.00 | Lowes
| Case Rack Mount | $35.00 | 1 | $35.00 | EBay
Misc | | | | |
$35.97 | Steam Link | $19.99 | 1 | $19.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016XBGWAQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Bluetooth Adapter | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | GRANDCOW Bluetooth 4.0 USB Adapter Dongle for Windows 10/ 8.1 / 8/ 7 / Vista / XP
| 19 Key Numeric Keypad | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DJSAAU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/steppingstone01 · 3 pointsr/GoogleWiFi

I wouldn't bother trying to reconfigure an old router. That could cause you more problems than you need. This is the switch that I got. They aren't very expensive.

TP-Link 8 Port Gigabit Ethernet Network Switch | Ethernet Splitter | Plug-and-Play | Traffic Optimization | Unmanaged (TL-SG1008D) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B001EVGIYG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VkwzDbH7NAGZ0

u/MagnusRune · 2 pointsr/gaming

these are the ones i have.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01BECPIMC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

with one of these as well

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001EVGIYG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 (the 8 port v6 one)

so my PC, xbone, 360, PS4, TV, laptop have ethernet cables going into the multi-ethernet device, it then has 1 cable into the power plug, then in living room there is the other one, which has 1 cable to the main hub. both power things are in power extension blocks as well.. i think the one in my room is on a block, powered from a block, then the wall..

u/BrownAndCony · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

Hmmm that's good to know. I just use a regular switch from Amazon:

TP-Link TL-SG1008D 10/100/1000Mbps 8-Port Gigabit Desktop Switch, 10Gbps Switching Capacity https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001EVGIYG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Pz74ybEKMFHGA

Any idea of what I might need to do to use my Philips hue on this switch?

u/Goofmobber · 2 pointsr/lanparty

Honestly, I would just go gigabit. If you're going to be transferring stuff between computers (think Steam backups) 100mbps converts to about 12 mb/s, whereas Gigabit (1000mbps) is about 10 times faster.

A few other people have linked various switches in this thread, haven't seen this one mentioned yet though.

u/ILikePokemonGo101 · 2 pointsr/eero

Is it unstable? Or is just a bit lower than before. Also having it go through the modem from Fios may add latency, especially only about 4-6 miliseconds. Cheap switches work wonders. The CEO recommended this here. I also read that it may take up to 24-48 hours to learn its surroundings best.

​

I'd honestly recommend replacing the Fios solution entirely if possible. Hooking up directly to a ONT and see if that yields the performance you were looking for? I'd honestly call Eero. One of the best support lines out there with tons of knowledge about everything networking and wifi.

u/wanderingbilby · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Yes to both. It makes sense to power a switch that way. If you don't do file transfers inside the house (always going to the internet) and your internet connection is less than 100mbit it shouldn't make much difference which way you hook it up for power.

A combination of this switch and this PoE injector / splitter would work, the nice thing is you use the original power supply for the switch so no need to purchase an injector / splitter with its own power supply. You can substitute switches and injector / splitter pairs as needed to be able to source cheaply and locally :)

u/GTR128 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Here are a few options. Any basic gigabit switch should be fine. I am not sure how many ports you want, but all of the options come in different versions with different number of ports.

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Gigabit-Ethernet-Desktop-TL-SG108/dp/B00A121WN6/

http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Unmanaged-Gigabit-GREENnet-TEG-S80g/dp/B001QUA6RA/

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Gigabit-Ethernet-Desktop-TL-SG1008D/dp/B001EVGIYG/

u/MrDoh · 1 pointr/eero

This one is working well for me:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EVGIYG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I replaced a Netgear GS208 unmanaged network switch because it wasn't working right. It would act up and I'd have to power-cycle it to get it back to working. The above TP-Link has been great for months now, no problems, and low cost.

u/AaronCompNetSys · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

For reference, I put this switch on the opposite side of my house of my router and all my equipment around my TV is plugged into it. I still get full gigabit speeds even though it was freaking cheap. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001EVGIYG/

Nowadays, you can plug any device into any other device. It's built into the gigabit spec.

u/Space_Cowby · 1 pointr/VirginMedia

You need a small switch to between between the superhub and your router. Something like this should work

https://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-LINK-TL-SG105-Steel-Gigabit-Switch/dp/B001EVGIYG

u/gearcontrol · 1 pointr/homelab

I asked because I don't know if this will make much difference:

TP-Link TL-SG1008D

10Gbps Switching Capacity

15K Jumbo Frame

TRENDnet 16-port TEG-S16DG

32Gbps Switching Capacity

10KB Jumbo Frame

u/alex-mayorga · 1 pointr/cordcutters

Thanks! Guess we'll pickup http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EVGIYG/ to "future proof" =)

u/milan616 · 1 pointr/GoogleWiFi

I'm using this guy right here, inexpensive and well reviewed with a little room for expansion for you.

https://smile.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Ethernet-Desktop-TL-SG1008D/dp/B001EVGIYG/

u/hops_on_hops · 1 pointr/DIY

Cat5e should be plenty fast for home use.

Like the other guy said, you really need to get power here and a switch. If you want to do it right, you could terminate all the wiring into a patch panel, then attach those ports to your switch. That gives you a nice setup to centralize network equipment.

Examples:
Patch: https://www.amazon.com/Dshot12-Cat5e-network-Mount-Surface/dp/B00NTWK8VW/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?keywords=patch+panel&qid=1572791966&sprefix=Patch+&sr=8-8

Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-SG1008D-Unmanaged-Gigabit-Network/dp/B001EVGIYG/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=8+port+gigabit+switch&qid=1572792046&sprefix=8+po&sr=8-6



Edit:

Thinking more, if you absolutely can't get power in there you could probably do a PoE (power over ethernet) powered switch here, with a PoE power injector on another line.

Something like this in the closet: https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16833122614

Then the port on there for power would need to lead to something like this in another room: https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PoE150S-Injector-Adapter-Compliant/dp/B001PS9E5I/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=poe+injector&qid=1572793212&sprefix=poe+i&sr=8-3

u/Sunsparc · 1 pointr/techsupport

/r/homenetworking

My shop sells this one, it works pretty well.

u/Defiant001 · 1 pointr/bapcsalescanada

At that point just spend a few more dollars and get a different switch if you are worried.

http://www.amazon.ca/TP-LINK-TL-SG1008D-1000Mbps-Switching-Capacity/dp/B001EVGIYG

I have 3 of those and two of the 5 port versions in service without any issue. They are cool to the touch even under massive transfers.

u/UsernamesAreHard26 · 1 pointr/GoogleWiFi

Yeah. Just make sure it's an unmanaged switch. I use this and I haven't had any issues.

TP-Link 8 Port Gigabit Ethernet Network Switch | Ethernet Splitter | Plug-and-Play | Traffic Optimization | Unmanaged (TL-SG1008D) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EVGIYG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cYe4CbR13PWFT

u/mrchaotica · 1 pointr/gaming

> Why metal chassis?

Aside from the fact that you don't have to worry about this yellowing issue, you mean?

Well, there's also the fact that, because it's a pain in the ass to work with, electronic devices with metal chassis tend to be more similar to rectangular prisms, which is better industrial design because then you can stack things on top of them. Compare this metal ethernet switch to the equivalent plastic one, for example. (I would have preferred to use a router as an example instead of a switch because there's even more gratuitous bullshit, including ones you can't even wall-mount or put flat against a surface(!!!), but it's too hard to find a metal-chassis one to compare against.)

Not to mention, it's often the case that I just like the aesthetic of metal better (e.g. in the case of electronics, metal is often more professional/industrial looking). And not just for electronics: I'm also generally a fan of mid-century-modern design, and since most kinds of plastics hadn't been developed commercially yet (except for Bakelite), most products back then were metal. Because design is subject to the limitations (and advantages) of the medium, today's plastic products would have a hard time replicating that look/feel even if they tried.

Consider a Radio Flyer stamped-steel wagon, for instance: the rolled edge of the body was easy to grip tightly for a kid riding in it (or an adult picking it up), the steel made a satisfying clang when you dumped rocks into it, and it had a strongly-horizontal, lithe look. In comparison, a plastic wagon has convex sides that are probably easier to manufacture but harder to grip, surely makes a dull thud when stuff is dumped in it, and just looks thick and bulky compared to the metal version. (Note: I suspect that the difference in noise is not only due to the material properties of steel vs. plastic, but also the geometric fact that stamped steel uses embossing or corrugation to increase the strength of panels, while injection-molded plastic uses ribs instead: the varying thickness of the latter probably deadens the reverb more.) Moreover, the versatility of plastic tempted the designer to add a bunch of extraneous bullshit like a big depression/footwell in the middle, fold-down seat backs, and even fucking cupholders (which you can see in this photo)! The result is that the horizontalness is destroyed and it just looks like a bulbous mess.

Granted, that plastic wagon is probably objectively superior to the classic steel design, in the sense that it won't rust (give or take the axles) when left out in the rain and appears safer and more comfortable for kids to sit in. But even then, the steel design is better because it's worse! The fact that the steel design affords not only the ability to grip the edge, but the need to as well because the sides are low and you're riding more on top of it than in it, creates the opportunity for experiences that the plastic design precludes. If I were a kid planning to ride one down a hill, I know which design I'd pick! In short, if all wagons were plastic, this would not exist.

Finally, I don't know why -- maybe its survivor bias, maybe it's the fact that steel has more heft than plastic, or maybe it's (as you mentioned) simply because it costs more -- but I feel like most products seem more high-quality if they're made out of metal. I guess it's probably mostly the latter reason, because the same phenomenon applies to e.g. hardwood floors in houses: they seem upscale now in comparison to cheap nylon carpet or vinyl laminate, but the reason oak strip flooring is so common in old houses is because it was the cheapest flooring available at the time. Heck, maybe it isn't even the higher-cost itself, but merely the signal that picking a higher-cost material conveys: implying that the designer is optimizing for quality instead of cheapness.

u/MegaHz · 1 pointr/lanparty

For the extra $6, go with this one. It's the 8 port version of that switch. I've been using one for years with no issues, and that way when you want to add a 5th, 6th or 7th seat, there's no extra headache.

u/washu_k · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Personally I'm not a fan of Linksys after they were purchased by Belkin. I would take the Nighthawk.

A switch in a home context is simply a device that expands your wired network. Most home class routers have a switch built in, those 4 LAN ports are an internal switch. If you ran a cable from your router to the basement and attached an 8 port switch you could connect 7 wired devices (one port is taken by the cable to the router). Since it is a wired connection it is much faster and more stable than a wireless one. Then attach an AP for devices that need to be wireless.

Here is an example of a basic switch: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Ethernet-Desktop-TL-SG1008D/dp/B001EVGIYG/

u/Megamoz · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Or this: TP-Link TL-SG1008D 8-Port Unmanaged Gigabit Network Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EVGIYG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.KQCCbRXXBN6P

u/ninjamoomoo98 · 1 pointr/lanparty


1.I will do my own research into this!

2.The computer count just dropped to 6 could i use this one that /u/PDXPayback said i could?

3.The router-Ethernet Thing shouldn't be a problem as the router is
on top of one of the pc's (Im^holding^It^Now)

4.My dad is an electrician so ill ask him about where are the breakers so i can not trip the power

and finally THANK YOU!

u/Lorddark462 · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

I disagree with WiFi. Always run things wired when you can. You can get switches cheap, This one on amazon for example:

TP-LINK TL-SG1008D 10/100/1000Mbps 8-Port Gigabit Desktop Switch, 10Gbps Switching Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EVGIYG/ref=cm_sw_r_an_am_at_ws_us?ie=UTF8

Yes I know the pis are only 100 and this is gigabit but 100 switches are only a little cheaper or even more expensive. And this way you can always use the switch in the future. I have 3 switches in my little home network.

As for cabling you can get flat cat6 cable very cheap on amazon as well.

SF Cable, 6 ft Premium UltraFlat CAT6 550 MHZ Flat Patch Cable Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004ICQNHA/ref=cm_sw_r_an_am_at_ws_us?ie=UTF8

They make various lengths and none are more then about $10, choose the option that has you pay for shipping its a little cheaper. All if my cables with the exception of one is these flat cat 6 cables, by going with cat 6 you once again future proof yourself. (The cable that isn't is a shielded cat 7 cable that goes outside, out one window and down a floor and in another) I love the fact that its flat and can be easily tucked into carpet edges and even go through doors when taped down and still be able to close the door with no issues.

u/PDXPayback · 1 pointr/lanparty

Here's a half-decent 8 port:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Gigabit-Ethernet-Desktop-TL-SG1008D/dp/B001EVGIYG
And a better 16 port:
https://www.amazon.com/D-Link-16-Port-Gigabit-Switch-DGS-1016A/dp/B0092KZBCQ

Pretty much anything will work, just remember you'll need one port for each computer, then one to link the switch to the next higher device (another switch or the router).

Just do some searching for extension cables on amazon or someplace similar, or hit your local hardware store. Look for 14AWG or better, at whatever length you need.