In that case it could definitely be a poor wifi signal. You might want to think about getting a wireless AC device if the price is right. My parents had this same issue when they first switched to CableOne at their house. They have the 100/3 plan and were only getting about 1Mbps down on wifi. I bought them the http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PDLRHFW when it was on sale a while back for $99 and now they get about 90 - 100 Mbps down when on devices that support wireless AC. I hope this information helps some, but I am not sure if the chromebook that you have supports wireless AC. If it does not then there would be no need to spend the extra money.

I recently got the TP-link AC1900 "Archer C9". Its been fantastic. Can be had for $79 on Amazon. I have 8 devices connected to it, 2 of them hard-wired. I can have a hard-wired device and a wireless device both streaming HD video, and wireless gaming on a laptop. I will still pull a download speed of 40 mpbs on my phone on speedtest. My ISP service is 60 down/6 up.

This is what I have. I absolutely love it and for $100 it works great. It's definitely getting a bit older now but its range is great. It has crazy distance IMO.

My experience with the Steam Link:

It works decently after upgrading from my old WRT54g router (which was unplayable) to a TP-LINK Archer C9.

Although when I say "decently", I'm not one who freaks out if FPS drops to 59 at 1920x1080, or even has to play at that resolution. It's playable. Sometimes it slows down. You can stream Netflix from your browser, sometimes the video goes into slow motion during scenes that have more "action", i.e. a woman jogging... (I haven't even watched something like Transformers...) depending on your Stream setting of Fast, Balanced, Beautiful.

It's nice when it works, most of the time. Sometimes it still drops the connection though, or the window loses focus, or you have to log in to Windows, and you have to physically go to the computer and figure it out, which can be frustrating.

Most of the time I've had to go over physically was because Steam crashed and I had to restart Steam. Hopefully these are bugs they'll be working out as it's still a relatively new device? Between this and the controller, they seem to get regular updates. And things HAVE been getting fixed and enhanced. But apparently it can't start Steam up on it's own over the network, or let you log in to Windows.

It worked plug & play with my Logitech Wireless Touch Keyboard K400 (plugging the little Logitech wireless receiver)

I just purchased this http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Archer-C9-Wireless-Beamforming/dp/B00PDLRHFW

In December because of my aging router and my growing number of wifi devices.

I could not be happier.

My Internet connection was always solid, but my router was holding me back. Here's a speed test from my phone from 3 rooms away:
http://imgur.com/FPlv16N

I've yet to test in the yard but my signal stays solid enough that I haven't thought about testing.

Half of my devices are on the lower band, the other half are on 5g (streaming devices, my own phone :-)

I read a LOT of reviews before my purchase and decided to gamble on this new model based on the performance of TPLINKs cheaper routers.

I was not disappointed.

I haven't used this particular model but I did buy the TP-Link AC1900 (~$89.99) about 2 months ago and it's been a fantastic router.

Figured. You can try to call back during the day and speak with a fiber engineer (if there is any due to the strike), and have them check to see if its self install ready.

Internet only you dont need their routers. The ONT is in/outside your property right? you can run a cat6 ethernet line from the ONT to your own router and be done with it. Their may be provisioning needed on VZ's end but that should be it.

My assumption would be they are defualting a tech out to not only run that line, but upgrade the ONT if its not rated for that speed.

For your own routers, i have a RT-AC68U Asus as well as many others, and its perfect. Otherwise i recommend the TP-Link archer C9 - http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-AC1900-Archer-C9-Wireless/dp/B00PDLRHFW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1464698899&sr=8-2&keywords=ac1900+router

Both should be fine, my Asus AC68U covers my 2 story house with 5 bedrooms + basement perfectly, the router is on the 2nd floor. (moving it downstairs soon).

If you have a very large house - or old house with plaster & steel lath walls consider this - , big price but i've installed this for a few people in similar situations and it was great. http://www.amazon.com/Dual-Band-Wireless-AC3100-Gigabit-Router-RT-AC88U/dp/B016EWKQAQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464698973&sr=8-1&keywords=asus+ac+3100

Are you renting/leasing the router? For the cable internet setups, it's best to get a dedicated modem by itself and buy an external router. The AIO modem/router usually has compromises and not really upgradable if you want faster wifi speeds.

Since it's from 2010, I'd upgrade the setup completely with a new modem (depending on what your provider speeds are) and a router (TP Link Archer C9 because it's what I use and provides great wifi speeds when you have dual band devices).

Having issues connecting to my new TP-Link AC1900 DualBand router still. It loses Internet from both the 2.4 GHz and 5Ghz signals after about 2-3 mins. I can connect to the old Verizon Router no problems.

Any one of these:

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BUSDVBQ?keywords=tp-link&qid=1452378556&ref_=sr_1_1&s=pc&sr=1-1

http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00PDLRHFW

http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B010UR8AM2

http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00YY3XSSA

There was an enormous thread over on /r/sysadmin a couple weeks back (over 1,000 responses) and these tp-link models were among the most popular. The Archer C9 model is the first one with a dual CPU and has 128Meg of RAM and is reasonably priced.

Don't get a combo router/modem; it unnecessarily limits your options and it's annoying when your device ends up half-broken or half-obsolete, but the whole thing has to be replaced at once.

modem:

Check the approved device list for your tier of service and buy whatever's cheapest (except that if the list still contains DOCSIS 2.0 devices for some reason, ignore those and get a modem that is at least DOCSIS 3.0). If you shop around for cable modems you'll notice that they're labeled as "MxN": M is the number of downstream channels and N is the number of upstream channels, which determines the maximum connection speed the modem supports. IMO 8x4 (which corresponds to 343 Mbps download) is the current value-for-money sweet spot; unless you plan to switch to a faster service than that within the next couple of years it's not worth paying extra for future-proofing.

The Arris/Motorola SB6141 ($40 on Amazon) is a popular choice.

router:

If all you care about is Internet access speed (i.e., the thing that's limited by your 70 Mbps connection) then even an old 802.11N router would be good enough, let alone an AC one. If you care about transferring files and/or streaming between computers within the house, then having gigabit ethernet and 802.11 AC (and dual-band/MIMO/other buzzwords/etc.) starts to become more important.

Don't pay extra for fancy software features (security, antivirus, parental controls, etc). Instead, pick a router that is supported by open-source third-party firmware such as LEDE, which can turn even a basic router into a pseudo-"enterprise"-level device with every fancy feature you could possibly imagine. (Subject to hardware limitations, of course!) (If you decide to care about third-party firmware support, pay close attention to exactly what hardware you're getting, including the revision number. Sometimes hardware changes in ways that break compatibility without any way to tell just from reading the outside of the package.)

Also pay attention to the physical form-factor of the device (this goes for the cable modem too, by the way). If you want it to lay flat on a surface instead of standing up on its edge (or vice-versa), make sure it actually supports being used that way. For example, this piece of shit would have been a great device, except that some dipshit designed it such that it can't sit flat or hang on a wall. It's asinine!

I concur with /u/JustBeefTaco in recommending the TP-Link Archer C7. In addition to the reasons he said, it's also good because it's supported by LEDE. My own home network runs on an Archer C7 (running LEDE 17.01)

That said, if you wanted to "do it right" using one access point per floor, then you'd put a non-wi-fi router such as this Mikrotik in the basement next to the cable modem, and then connect it using gigabit ethernet to ceiling-mounted access points on each floor. (Disclaimer: I haven't researched this kind of setup, so I don't know if these are the best devices to choose.) Note that the devices I listed support PoE (Power over Ethernet), which IMO would be important for that kind of more permanently-installed setup.

This is the one I've got. No issues, fast and reliable. Can't remember the last time I had to restart it.

hhttps://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-Wireless-Router-1300Mbps-Beamforming/dp/B00PDLRHFW/ref=pd_sim_147_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ENJSMSDPWG5TP71AB573

May seem expensive, but for the most part you get what you pay for.

First thing first what speed are you actually paying for? That will determine equipment for the most part.

Best bet is to get a dumb modem and a separate router. While I can't find a proper list of approved modems, silly comcast, the Arris Surfboard always gets solid reviews, coming in at $45. It tops out at 343 Mbps download and 131 upload speeds. I've never had comcast or any dealings with them, so anyone else that does please feel free to chime in.

As for router, I've been a fan of TP Links product, so I'd recommend the TP-Link Wireless Router AC1900. It will give you 4 gig ports, its dual band, meaning both 2.4 GHz (up to 600 mbps) and 5 GHz (up to 1300mbps) for wifi, priced at $90. That will keep you under the $200 price range and give you good service.

Edit; words are hard

it's currently $95, new, on amazon

If I were in your shoes, and strong wireless is desirable in every corner of the house, I'd put a router on one end and an AP (or router in AP mode) on the other end of the house, connected via ethernet or MoCA (via TV cable, if the house is wired for it. Even if it's not, it's stupidly simple to run an RG6 cable around the outside of the house, assuming you aren't renting).

I've done essentially this in my own house (which is half the size of yours, and square). I didn't need the wireless coverage for inside the house, but for outside when I'm doing yard work. Since I use Google Fi for my cellular service, I want to minimize my data usage. Having strong WiFi outside lets me listen to Pandora (using a pair of BT headphones so I don't have dangling wires to get caught in things) without using up my data.

The specific parts I'm using are:

Primary router : Netgear WNDR3700v4
Secondary router (in AP mode) : TP-Link WR1043ND V2.1

I suspect both of these items are no longer available. I've read that the TP-Link Archer line (C7 or C9) are both excellent options, and both should support being configured as an AP, so you could use one for your primary router and the other to help provide stronger WiFi throughout your house. You can buy two C7's, two C9's, or one of each -- it doesn't matter -- either of them should handle the load you've outlined. It helps that they have thousands of very good reviews for you to read through. :)

I'm trying to figure out how to lower my ping for netplay, anyone have any suggestions?

​

I have a good PC and monitor, and when I had my last netplay match the connection was ok on my end at least, but I'm trying to see how to lower it
I think it said 32 on dolphin, I just ran an internet connection test and it says
Ping: 7ms
Download: 119.7 Mbps
Upload: 9.3 Mbps
Jitter: 1ms
is that bad?
I just checked my ISP account and it says its up to 50 Mbps Download and up to 5 Mbps upload, I have CAT 5e ethernet cables hooked up to this modem: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AJHDZSI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and this router: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PDLRHFW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
So those might be the problem?

Hey, I've got the following router: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00PDLRHFW/

It has a usb 3.0 plug in which I can plug something like a hard drive or usb, and then you can set it up to have a media server under your network.

I've been looking for a hard drive to throw on there, should I get a normal HDD and buy a separate enclosure, or should I get a one of those portable hard drives?

I'm looking at using it to store the 35gb of STL files I've accumulated thus far and probably movies/shows. 2TB would be best I would guess.

Is it a good idea to use the router's usb port for this? Or should I reuse my raspberry pi 3+ with RetroPie that's gathering dust? If yes for the pi, any good tutorials out there? Thanks :D

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Archer-AC2300-Smart-Router/dp/B00PDLRHFW?tag=cnet-api-20&SubscriptionId=AKIAJ3NOW7JKGQLTEY4A&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B06XZ3S6B8&ascsubtag=77b34d20-6518-11e8-9409-03b32d6b4114&th=1

Just to add. I have a pixel 2 and this one is working with no issues to me.

TP-Link Wireless Router AC1900 Smart WiFi Dual-Band Gigabit (Archer C9) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PDLRHFW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nrybBbZ9277YR

What do you think about the C9 for $85 instead?

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1900-Range-Wireless-Router/dp/B00PDLRHFW/ref=lp_16352389011_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1502717997&sr=1-1

TP-LINK Archer C7

TP-LINK Archer C9

ASUS RT-AC66U

ASUS RT-AC68U

For Comcast approved modems, see these links:

https://customer.xfinity.com/help-and-support/internet/list-of-approved-cable-modems/

https://mydeviceinfo.xfinity.com/

There are both standalone cable modems listed and combo (gateway) modem-wifi router units. Use the radio buttons on the side of the second link to specify what you are looking for

I prefer separate units... if something goes wrong, easier to troubleshoot, and separate units give a lot more control over settings/user preferences

The Arris SB6190 may have some issues not yet solved.

I am using an Arris SB6183 on Charter (former TWC) 200/20... very stable. I bought it refurbished off ebay from an approved vendor... no problems. ebay prices are about $70 - $80, Costco also sells that exact unit new for $89.99, item 1080070

I am using a TP-Link AC1900 Archer C9 wireless router...

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1900-Wireless-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00PDLRHFW

Whatever you choose, recommend putting it in the same room as your TV/Streaming box... and use 5Ghz if possible to avoid wifi interference

I am sure others will have their own ideas.... Hope this helps and good luck!

Your modem wasn't an issue, it was the router attached to the modem. I think you wasted your money there.

If you want a hecking good router, the [Asus AC5300 is a fan favorite] (https://www.amazon.com/Tri-band-AiProtection-Accelerator-Compatible-RT-AC5300/dp/B0167HG1V6/ref=bdl_pop_ttl_B0167HG1V6). Ensure you sacrifice an xbox 360 to it now and then to keep it happy.

[The TP-Link Archer AC1900] (https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Archer-AC1900-Smart-Router/dp/B00PDLRHFW/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1522431079&sr=1-3&keywords=dual+band+router+tp-link) also has great wireless speeds and control. I recommend this one, TPLink has good products.

I would recommend buying a new router, and looking for one with beamforming capabilities. Essentially it's a feature that allows the router to triangulate the device using the wireless, and concentrate a density of connection between it and the router. This is a far stronger bond than the normal radial signal production. The range extender would not work well, I have one in my house because my roommate brought it, and it has to have a connection to the router still. Putting it by your computer sounds like it wouldn't be able to connect well anyways, plus they drop the up/download speeds pretty drastically.
I live in a house with 7 other college students, everyone has 3 or 4 bandwidth intensive devices, and it's a 3 story building. This router has exceeded expectations by far.
TP-Link AC1900 Wireless Long Range Wi-Fi Gigabit Router (Archer C9) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PDLRHFW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Sn6hybNMTRNYM

My internet used to be trash, not 1000+ ping trash but there were plenty of times where I was experiencing lag or ping spikes to the point I would say my internet was garbage.

I ended up buying a AC1900 router (link here) and a new CAT7 cable. My speeds practically quadrupled, I ended up going from ~50mbps to nearly 200mbps. Part of me wonders if it was my Ethernet cable all along, but I'm still happy with the purchase of the AC1900 router. My Xbox is downstairs and my router is upstairs, with the old router I was having issues connecting the 5ghz line due to distance but also the 2.4ghz band was royally fucked on because of all my neighbors and their WIFI. With this router I have 0 issues connecting to the 5ghz band.

My ping isn't in the single digits, but it is consistently between 10-20ms now whereas before it was ~30 at best all the way up to 500 when shit hit the fan for whatever reason.

i use this one, https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1900-Smart-Wireless-Router/dp/B00PDLRHFW so i can only give you feedback on it.

It works great overall, great signal almost anywhere that there isn't a thick concrete wall on my property blocking the signal.

Nope. Just don’t be like the people in past threads across the Vegas subs who want the fastest speeds then buy the cheapest router. We have this but I’d get the one for $150 so you don’t have to pay to rent a modem from Cox. We pay $88ish a month for 150 and pull closer to 300

TP-Link makes a relatively affordable ($108 USD) Wireless AC Router (Archer C9) that has Time Machine support.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1900-Wireless-Wi-Fi-Router/dp/B00PDLRHFW
http://www.tp-link.com/no/faq-1564.html

Comes with a USB 2 and USB 3 port, has a smartphone app for changing settings, and supports simultaneous broadcast of 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz.

First off, switch that router out because it maxes out at 100 Mbps. Your Ethernet ports are 100/10 Mbps, you probably want 1000/100/10 Mbps. Your priority should be get Gigabit Ethernet ports and at least 3 streams (each 5 GHz stream is 433 Mbps). Do note, WiFi can only get you about 60% of the stated speed. If you wanted to get 1 Gbps off WiFi, you can't.

An easy router to recommend is the Archer C9. It's good for the price, and has more capacity than R6700. $99 with AC1900, gigabit ethernet, and relatively small

However, I doubt you're going to get better WiFi signal from a newer router. The FCC limits the maximum signal strength you can transmit, and if your device can't transmit back to the router then it won't work. AKA if your device can't shout back loud enough, the stronger signal strength won't work. It's a two-way street.

Cox supports the MB8600 (it does), so you'll be fine with it. Some hardware is inferior and causes drops and failure, but I really doubt you're going to stress the Gigabit service too much. You should be okay.

If you could move the router so it has to go through fewer walls and less stuff, that is absolutely the best course of action. Run a longer cable from your modem, attach it to the walls if you are able to.

with that kind of download, just look for anything that is AC at this point. the Archer C9 is $69.99 on Amazon right now for me

Was looking into routers today myself, ended up going with this router.
https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-AC1900-Wireless-Archer-C9/dp/B00PDLRHFW?ie=UTF8&tag=topwirelessrouter-chart-20

Search around a bit but I ended up ordering that one

Your link is the exact modem I was talking about. This is the router.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PDLRHFW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-9KEAb4ZRN28B

The code takes off $10 and the coupon take off $10. Bringing the router down to $79. The modem has a $10 coupon too.

> Se gaseste un router bun la 200-300 de lei?

aproape, eu am luat tp link archer c5 acum ceva ani(inca merge bine), era scump ca pla, astazi sunt mult mai ieftine; pe c5 am instalat openwrt

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Archer-AC1900-Smart-Router/dp/B00PDLRHFW

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Archer-AC1750-Smart-Router/dp/B00BUSDVBQ

https://amzn.com/B00PDLRHFW

Are you more worried about the modem or wireless router? Most modern modems/routers are just fine. It's the wireless radio that's terrible.

I just looked at a huge number of wireless router options, and the Archer C8 is my current pick for the money. While it's a tad slower than some of the fastest routers, it's affordable and has almost no bad reviews on either newegg or amazon. (<10% 1-2 star reviews). Every other router was more in the 20-50% 1-2 star review range. (Yes, 50%!).

Here's a list of the top performing routers from smallnetbuilder, sorted by 5ghz downlink. (I decided to use that instead of overall throughput, but it should be fairly similar).

| Model | 5ghz downlink Mbps | Newegg 1-2 | Amazon 1-2 | Amazon price | Newegg price |
|------------------------------------------------------|--------------------|-------------|-------------|--------------|--------------|
| TP-Link AC1750 / Archer C7 | 209.5 | 33% | 21% | $100 | $100 |
| Linksys EA6900 | 195.6 | n/a | 34% | $170 | $180 |
| Netgear R6250 | 184.8 | 23% | 21% | $130 | $133 |
| D-Link DIR-880L | 182.4 | 20% | 12% | $167 | $167 |
| Asus RT-AC66U | 166.7 | 31% | 20% | $151 | $151 |
| D-Link DIR-868L | 162.6 | 29% | 18% | $130 | $130 |
| Linksys EA6500 | 160.7 | 55% | 27% | $130 | $120 |
| Netgear R6300v2 | 159.4 | 48% | 21% | $140 | $140 |
| TRENDnet TEW-818DRU | 156.9 | 25% | 22% | $150 | $150 |
| TP-Link AC1750 Archer C8 | 155.6 | 13% | 13% | $115 | $115 |
| TP-Link AC1900 Archer C9 | 154.5 | 5% | 3% | $151 | $151 |
| Linksys AC1600 EA6500 | 151.4 | 55% | 27% | $130 | $120 |
| Linksys AC1200 EA6400 | 151.4 | 21% | 27% | $110 | $144 |
| Asus AC1200 RT-AC56U | 150 | 53% | 25% | $100 | $100 |
| Asus RT-N66U | 136.7 | 20% | 14% | $120 | $120 |

I just purchased a TP-Link AC1900/Archer C9, it's Amazon's #1 Recommended Router. I like to browse their consumer electronics for recommendations, that's how I grabbed my laptop too. Very good prices and great reviews.

So far, I've had absolutely no problem with the router. I've got gigabit and wireless, I'm getting 250 down / 250 up, which I am a-okay with.

I've got my Xbox One hard-wired, so obviously I'm getting even greater speeds.

If you arent interested in spending Nighthawk money, I had a lot of luck upgrading to this one in August. It has excellent range, which was the biggest reason for my upgrade.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PDLRHFW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00

Oh that's a good idea.
How much better would the range of this router be compared with our current router?

[Check out this one] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PDLRHFW).

Things went to shit overnight. Phone was disconnecting and reconnecting with -122 signal strength, while randomly getting a good connection at -44.

This time, however, my laptop couldn't establish a connection. Restarting the laptop didn't help. I reset the router and everything's back to normal, but I assume it will act the same way as if I turned it off and on.

I have a new one on the way: TP-LINK AC1900 Archer C9 Dual Band Wireless Wi-Fi AC Router - $114.99. It has raving reviews. I can't remember when I bought my current Netgear WNDR3400 router, but it's been good for years. I can't wait to get this new one.

I have a XB6 modem from Comcast. I haven't been able to find specs on it, but there's no external power brick and it says on the bottom 115v ~ 1.1A

TP Link Archer C9 and 8 Port Switch

It'd be nice to be able to get at least 2-3 hours with wifi on just so it would work without having to go and turn off the wifi, but the main thing is keeping the modem up so the phone works, so it depends how much battery time the wifi uses. If it's unrealistic to get that kind of run time with wifi on then I'd only use it to back-up the modem.

• My modem is out of date, but i have an ARRIS SURFboard with DOCSIS 2.* or 3.0 and comcast said it is out of date, and that i can't update the firmware. So i need to have them refresh my signal and reboot the modem every 1-3 months now... I think DOCSIS 3.1 might be the one you want to go with? Don't quote me though!!! haha

• I purchased the TP-Link 1900 and it has worked flawlessly!! Steaming to my phone, my wife's tablet, my mother-in-law's phone, a bedroom tv, main living room tv and my neighbors across the street that hypothetically have a wife extender and my old roku 2 box. My main network is hidden, the guest network 2.4 and 5 is showing. And a sub guest network at my neighbors with 2.4 only. Plus multiple users on the network when at the neighbors pool. No 4k streaming though, only 1080p.

I have comcast running into my basement and into a modem, then i have an ethernet cable running up into the living room and into the router. Then from the router and back down into an unmanned switch. From there, i have ethernet cable ran to every room of the house, but i still need to hook it up....

This is the one I have, and LOVE it (i could only find the refurb link on amazon, but same thing):

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Gigabit-Certified-Refurbished/dp/B07F9221FC/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=TP-Link+AC1900&qid=1555421510&s=electronics&sr=1-4

This appears to be a newer version, but i believe the one i have above an amplified antennas:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1900-Smart-Wireless-Router/dp/B00PDLRHFW/ref=wsdps_5?cv_ct_pg=detail&cv_ct_wn=woodstock-detail&linkCode=oad&cv_ct_id=ws&pf_rd_r=2R6Z03YPKDD9Q6RGVSND&pd_rd_wg=gWXhv&pd_rd_w=NIezO&pd_rd_r=dcb9d328-604b-11e9-a945-818b360be682

This one is newer as well and looks more like the one you posted, but almost half the price:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1900-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B07NF3K74H/ref=dp_ob_title_ce

For an AC1900, get the Archer C9, it is the same price, but newer model, and it's amazing. AND it's on sale right now, didn't realize that!!! (I bought it when it wasn't on sale).

I typically recommend the Archer C7 AC1750 to people. The Archer C5 AC1200 for people on a budget, but I didn't realize that the C5 and C7 are about the same price now, so might as well get the C7 instead of C5.

Here is a good combo for you. Archer C9 + 16x4 Modem. You should get it while it's on sale! $149.39.

The C9 I have is on sale for $70 right now:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Archer-AC1900-Smart-Router/dp/B00PDLRHFW/

Should have plenty of range for you and I haven't had any issues.

http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1900-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00F0DD0I6/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1453138055&sr=1-1&keywords=nighthawk (i have this personally)

or even cheaper http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Wireless-Gigabit-Archer-C9/dp/B00PDLRHFW/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1453138078&sr=1-2&keywords=tp+link+archer+c7 both will do great.


To add, to get the open nat you will still need to do a bit of configuration on the router - more or less just simply turning Upnp on.

If you'd rather have a wireless router instead of the AC-lite for your WiFi, something like this is decent.

Something like this should suit you nicely. Under $100 and a solid performer.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1900-Smart-Wireless-Router/dp/B00PDLRHFW

Comment threads are good. Somebody might have the same issue.

We don't have the routers on at the same time. We did have it to where they were both connected but the issues still persisted.

I'm thinking about getting something like [this] (http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Archer-C9-Wireless-Beamforming/dp/B00PDLRHFW/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1419703312&sr=1-5&keywords=router) but I don't want to just throw money at a router and expect the issue to be resolved. Need some professional advice.

Hey all, I'm wondering which is the better router here.

I recently bought this one on amazon, but this is still within the return window if the other one is better:

TP-Link AC1900 Long Range Wireless Wi-Fi Router - Amazon's Choice for Essential Wi-Fi Router (Archer C9) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PDLRHFW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kLnDzb7T0R6DT

Below is the router that just went back on sale. I'm wondering if it's better than the above router to justify me returning the TP-Link.

NETGEAR Nighthawk AC1750 Smart Dual Band WiFi Router (R6700) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R2AZLD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FInDzbR34GW34

Thanks!

> Here is a layout with the modem/router included: https://prnt.sc/nvevd4

It's a good thing you pointed out that your house has brick walls. Wi-Fi signals have a tough time getting through brick, so you should rule out mesh.

> Currently I am using an old router (Asus RT-N12+B1) and a powerline extender (TP-LINK Powerline TL-WPA2020) in the "Office" room - both marked on the layout. This way I am getting around ~55Mbps on wifi from router and ~30Mbps from the powerline extender.

For the benefit of other readers, both the Asus and the TP-Link only support 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi. They also have 100 Mbps Ethernet ports. Yikes! This equipment is holding you back.

> Suffice to say both equipment has a cap of 300Mbps (wired I assume).

No, that's wireless. Due to the way Wi-Fi works, actual wireless speeds will be at least 50% slower. Worse, cut speeds in half again because 2.4 GHz is generally limited to using 20 MHz wide channels, whereas TP-Link's number assumes 40 MHz channels. IOW, you're looking at nominal Wi-Fi speeds of around 75 Mbps.

>I am looking to exchange these to use the bandwidth from our provider a bit more. I should note that I am not a networking enthusiast (yet).
>
> I don't want to spend a lot here (aiming at around $100) but for example I'd like to have the option to perhaps create a mesh network at some point.
>
> Here are the options I have considered. (feel free to suggest additional ones also):

> #1 TP-Link AC1900 ( https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00PDLRHFW/ )

> Just a better router which I think has a bit better coverage also.

I don't have any personal experience with this model but it looks like an average, run of the mill, consumer grade router. That's not to say it's bad. For a long time, an AC1900 class router represented the sweet spot in terms of Wi-Fi bandwidth and cost. BTW, AC1900 stands for up to 600 Mbps at 2.4 GHz and up to 1300 Mbps at 5 GHz. Again, these are inflated by at least 100%.

Moreover, the Wi-Fi capabilities of devices must also be taken into account. The average smartphone with 802.11ac Wi-Fi, for example, will at best leverage only 2/3rds of what this router is capable of. You're still looking at 200-400 Mbps, which is quite an improvement.

It's always hard to say anything about range. The TP-Link may have better range, but the brick walls in your house are going to put a damper on that.

> I probably would still have to use the powerline extender in the Office. (would that have a better performance also with a better router?)

A router with Gigabit Ethernet ports will certainly open up access to the full bandwidth provided by your Internet connection. But it looks like your Powerline extender only has a 100 Mbps Ethernet port, so that's going to be a bottleneck. Honestly, I would not expect much, if any, improvement.

I would be careful about upgrading to a faster Powerline adapter with a Gigabit Ethernet port. You may not see very much improvement. Powerline is a notoriously finicky and, frequently, disappointing technology. Real world and published speeds are nowhere close to each other. That's not to say that it doesn't work for some people, but you can forget about seeing anywhere close to Gigabit speeds.

> #2 Netgear Orbi RBK30 ( https://www.cclonline.com/product/243512/RBK30-100UKS/Cable-Routers/Netgear-Orbi-RBK30-Wireless-AC2200-Tri-Band-Network-Router-with-Satellite/NET2800/ )
>
> With AC2200 it should of course give much better speeds than the current router (I hope), and there would be the option to exchange the powerline extender with an other Orbi unit to create a mesh network? Would that work?

While the Orbi is one of the better mesh products, you should not consider it with a brick-walled house.

> #3 Unifi AP AC LR
>
> I've seen this being suggested numerous times but I am a bit hesitant about it. Mainly because I don't quite understand how it would work and it seems to me that it would be more expensive that I'd want to pay.
>
> Since I am not well versed in networking I am unsure how access points actually work.

Think of an Access Point as a device that provides a Wi-Fi connection to a network. A Wi-Fi router has a built-in Access Point, along with an Ethernet switch, firewall and NAT. If you were to disable Wi-Fi on the router and connect an external Access Point, like the Unifi, into one of the router's Ethernet ports, you would functionally have the same thing.

The beauty of Wi-Fi is that you can distribute multiple Access Points throughout your residence to provide strong Wi-Fi coverage. You can even use the Access Point built into the router to complement the external Access Points. The catch is that external Access Points must be wired to the router. BTW, your TP-Link Powerline extender is technically an Access Point. It just happens to be wired to the router using A/C wires.

> 1. I would need a router obviously and I had the idea that this AP can work as one. Is that so? Or would I actually need to purchase a router and this would only serve as an access point somewhere else?

As I explained above, the Unifi would only serve as an Access Point. You would still need a router. You might consider a Ubiquiti USG. It's limited to a total throughput of 1000 Mbps (up and down combined), so it falls a bit short of what your Internet connection is capable of. In practical terms, you are unlikely to ever notice unless you intend to frequently hammer your Internet connection. Unfortunately, a USG + Unfi AP would significantly exceed your budget of $100.

> 2. Now my question here: if I wanted to have a second AP would I need to get the ethernet wiring over there also (meaning it wouldn't work wirelessly as mesh networks do)? Powerline would work for me as well I just don't want to install another 50meter cable into the walls (although I might consider it through the attic if it's that good of an idea).

An Access Point does need to be wired to the router. Ethernet is the fastest and most reliable medium. If you have coax in your house, I would seriously consider MoCA. Think of MoCA as Ethernet over coax. It's much more reliable than Powerline. You need a MoCA adapter at each end of the coax segment. The fastest adapters (Bonded MoCA 2.0/2.5) are pricy but they can achieve near Gigabit speeds. Powerline should only be used as a last resort.

> 3. well this is worrying as I wouldn't want to keep a separate machine running just to keep the internet up

It's true that Unifi Access Points are managed by controller software running on a separate machine. But it's only necessary if you want to have a guest network with a login portal or if you want to monitor Wi-Fi traffic statistics. A guest network without a login portal does not require the controller to run continuously. There is also a smartphone app that can be used in lieu of the controller. It provides only very basic setup functions, which might suffice for you. Note: The controller can run on something as a small as a Raspberry Pi. Ubiquiti also sells something called a Cloud Key, which is basically a small computer dedicated to running the controller software.

If this all sounds like too much trouble, then you may want to consider TP-Link EAP Access Points. They have a built-in web portal for management.

> 4. on paper the Orbi gives a 2200Mbps performance compared to the Unifi one which if I calculate correctly is 1300+Mbps. So why opt for this?

2200 Mbps includes a 866 Mbps connection that's dedicated to the mesh function used by the nodes for communicating with each other. The bandwidth available to devices is 1300 Mbps, so it's basically the same.

You do have a point though, I don't need mesh, I liked the idea of it but if I got one of these and one of these I would essentially be doing the same thing I was with the AirPort Extreme/Express but with faster hardware and signals right?

When I add those to my cart from Amazon, the grand total is $121.24+ tax with the 16 channel modem

Whereas if I do the 24 channel modem, it comes to $143.63 + tax, is that what you meant?

​

My question is this, will upgrading to the 24 channel modem, will that help me at all, or am I being bottlenecked by the router? If that is the case, should I upgrade the router to maybe the AC1900 version and take more advantage of the modem? If I do the TP Link AC1900 with the modem you suggested, the total comes to $148.84 + any tax.

​

Sorry, I'm new to networking, I do more with computer hardware.

If coverage isn't the issue, better get this, can easily serve your needs

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1900-Smart-Wireless-Router/dp/B00PDLRHFW

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archer C9 I've been using this router for my duplex about 1000 sqft upstairs and 1400 sqft downstairs. Four people 3 play stations 4 laptops 4 iPhones and tablets and an Apple TV. This has worked flawlessly for the 6 or so months I've had it. Setup is easy and you can run it as a media server, it even recognizes OSX journaled hard drives.

Looks like the Netgear CM500 I saw on Amazon has that puma chip. Supposedly Motorola modems don't have that chip. Does this modem seem good? Right now I don't have access to the account so I can't see the Comcast modems page.


[Motorola MB7420] (https://www.amazon.com/Motorola-Certified-Comcast-Spectrum-BrightHouse/dp/B01A1E6BA2/ref=sr_1_9?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1517889047&sr=1-9&keywords=cable+modem)


Also any wireless router would work? How is this?


[TP Link AC1900] (https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Archer-AC1900-Smart-Router/dp/B00PDLRHFW/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8)

OP, if you're willing to spend $30 extra and get a great router, get [this] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PDLRHFW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_U40Bxb1VW0S37). It has a dual core processor and beamforming technology so latency will never be an issue. If you want one for $100, get [this] ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BUSDVBQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HX0BxbJ56QCA1) one. It's literally the same except it's only one core and no beamforming technology. These routers are still insanely good for the price.

Just some ideas of what you can look into. If your current modem is a router combo you might be able to place it into bridge mode and connect to the WAN port of a router. That might require a call to your ISP.

• NetGear R6220
  
• TP-Link Archer C5
  
• TP-Link Archer C9
  
  All of these would exceed your 8 device requirement. Also it would "future-proof" you if you decide to upgrade from DSL to something faster. They all run off 2.4GHz and 5GHz bands. The 2.4GHz band is better for range as it goes through objects better. However the 5GHz outperforms at shorter ranges and also has less interference from other wireless devices.

Anyone have any experience with TP-Link's routers? I've heard& read great things about them based on the features they offer vs price & I believe they made the Google OnHub.

I've been specifically eyeing this one TP-LINK Archer C7 AC1750 Dual Band Wireless AC Gigabit Router, 2.4GHz 450Mbps+5Ghz 1300Mbps, 2 USB Ports, IPv6, Guest Network https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BUSDVBQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_zpwvxbK10RT2V

And this one: TP-LINK AC1900 Archer C9 Dual Band Wireless Wi-Fi AC Router https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PDLRHFW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kswvxbVHXSQN8

Yeah it sounds like it would be easiest to get a router, the AC1900 is great if you're worried about wireless being slower

I really appreciate all of your help thus far.

I'm pretty sure I'm going with the Arris sb6190 seen here. Thoughts?

As far as a router, wifi speeds are really important as I plan on streaming a lot of content to my main TV (a flight of stairs away from the router) including large file sized movies. Is this C9 the one you're referring to by chance? The current spectrum modem/router only pushes about 65Mbps via wifi. Should I be able to get more with this Archer C9?

In the C9 product description it states "3 detachable dual band antennas for maximum wireless coverage and reliability" what does that mean? Do you utilize this?

In all seriousness, this router is great and won't break the bank. (No I don't sell these things)

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-AC1900-Wireless-Archer-C9/dp/B00PDLRHFW?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00


Edit: Probably most people only need the AC1750 Model (Most receiver adapters don't have the 3 antennas to use A1900)

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BUSDVBQ/ref=psdc_300189_t1_B00PDLRHFW

Do not purchase a router with the ADSL modem built in. A straight router, I could recommend the Asus RT-AC68U or the TP Link Archer C9 i

Some popular (and reasonably priced) routers:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Archer-C7-Wireless-1300Mbps/dp/B00BUSDVBQ?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PDLRHFW/ref=psdc_300189_t1_B00BUSDVBQ

https://www.amazon.com/RT-AC66U-Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1750-Gigabit-Router/dp/B008ABOJKS

https://www.amazon.com/RT-AC68U-Wireless-AC1900-Dual-Band-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00FB45SI4/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1465599997&sr=1-2&keywords=asus+router

Both brands should be good-to-go out of the box, but people do like to flash either DD-WRT or Tomato firmware on them. This will give you some more options, but most likely overkill for what you're looking for atm.

Remember, it's not just the hardware. Distance from your router and your devices plays a large roll. If possible, use ethernet as much as possible or put the router as close to the clients as possible.

Thanks for the reply! I don't believe the US-8-60W does 24V passive. I'm planning on getting an injector and an AP-AC Lite.

I guess my main point is that I'm currently running one of these and one of these. They meet my current needs perfectly. The only reason I need a switch is so I can add some cameras. The AP will be just an extra goody. I don't mind managing the AP separately from the cameras.

With the UniFi switch I'll need a UniFi controller, correct? Does that need to be running constantly or can I have it available on my main PC incase I need to change something?

I just replaced my 6 year old Netgear WNDR3400V2 with this TP-Link Archer C9. Its only $77 right now and It's been fantastic so far and has doubled what speeds I was getting with my old router (albeit that one was probably on its way out). Best of all it was so easy to set up. Just plug it in and it's up and running. Make sure it's on their compability list. But I'm sure it is.

For modems arris surfboards are good. They go higher in price depending on what speed you're getting. Make sure the modem will get you enough speed though. Because I have a modem capable of 680mbps but WOW limits my bandwidth to a max of 100mbps with my specific modem.

My recommendation:

1. Buy a good quality wifi router
   
   https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PDLRHFW/ref=s9_acsd_bw_wf_a_ECRouter_cdl_0?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-2&pf_rd_r=7EPKMYA3GFSE17MK8Q88&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=6e62a07f-3fec-4ffb-ac0f-70c59f8e9e71&pf_rd_i=12691227011
   
   
2. Buy several of these wifi extenders and plug them in various rooms of the house so that there are no dead zones
   
   https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Wi-Fi-Extender-Essentials-EX2700/dp/B00L0YLRUW/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1502515939&sr=1-3&keywords=wifi+extender
   
   Call your internet provider tech support and they can walk you through the router setup. Then you just press the WPS (wifi sync) button on your router and the WPS button on each of the wifi extenders and they'll connect automatically. That's it.
   

Nothing you have said makes it better than a TP-Link Archer C9 that is less expensive.