Reddit reviews TRENDnet Punch Down Tool with 110 and Krone Blade, TC-PDT, Insert & Cut Terminations in one Operation, Precision Blades are Interchangeable & Reversible, Network Punch Tool, 110 Punch Down Tool,white
We found 36 Reddit comments about TRENDnet Punch Down Tool with 110 and Krone Blade, TC-PDT, Insert & Cut Terminations in one Operation, Precision Blades are Interchangeable & Reversible, Network Punch Tool, 110 Punch Down Tool,white. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
DIVERSE USAGE: The punch down tool inserts and cuts terminations in one simple operation for cat6a cat6 cat5e cat5 network cables. Install wires into a telephone socket, cat5e faceplate or patch panelBLADE STORAGE: This network punch down tool is designed with a twist and lock holder for spare blade storage that helps prevent blade lossPRECISE INTERCHANGEABLE & REVERSIBLE BLADES: The precision blades for the punch down tool are conveniently interchangeable and reversible between 110 and Krone standardsERGONOMIC DESIGN: This network tool is designed with an easy to handle comfort gripMANUFACTURER PROTECTION: TRENDNet supports this network punch down tool with a 1 year protection
Can't really tell from this picture, but alot of times, it looks like ethernet, but it ends up not being terminated correctly, or setup for something like voice only or some other non-standard thing.
If it were me, I'd make a small investment in the following;
If you are lucky, whomever setup that panel wired it correctly, and the runs will test out. If you are not lucky, you'll need to take the next step and fix it yourself. This will require some more stuff;
There are many tutorials on the web on how to terminate Ethernet - essentially, you're going to need to make sure that the wires are terminated properly on the punch panel (in your living room) to the specifics on the keystone jack at the far end. Most likely, the jack at the far end looks something like this - https://www.amazon.com/Generic-Keystone-Ethernet-Compatible-Connector/dp/B014RAT7ZC/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1504982947&sr=1-6&keywords=keystone+jack
If you get the connectivity right, and that cable has all the pairs (8), you should be able to connect, and be on the road.
Not sure where you are located, but usually Fry's or MicroCenter is a good place to source these tools.
Holler back if you need more info.
I can't tell for sure from the photos, but that cable is probably at least CAT5e or better, which is just fine for 1GB ethernet in the house.
You need to cut off the phone jacks and install CAT5e or better RJ-45 jacks with a punch down tool. Do this conversion at every place where you want network. Then in the basement you need to punch down the other end of each cable separately to a CAT5e or better patch panel. Then you need to run short CAT5e or better patch cords from the patch panel to an Ethernet switch. Finally you need to connect your router to the switch, either directly, or through one of the network jacks you installed in the house.
Get yourself a punch down tool as it will make the wiring process much easier, also make sure the data cable is anchored somewhere in the box so it's not pulled free from those crimp connections.
Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Punch-Krone-Blade-TC-PDT/dp/B0000AZK4D
I have yet to find a punch down tool that's too cheaply made.
This is the one I had at my last job.
Cat 6 is perfectly fine, as it can support up to 10Gb, so its pretty future proofed as 1Gb is still the standard. We won't see 10Gb becoming the norm for a while.
As far as cable, I usually get it from Monoprice, or sometimes from amazon. I just bought a 1000ft spool of Cat6 for like $65
If you are putting drops in each room, its probably best to put in wall plates, and punch down the cable to a jack. You'll need a Punchdown Tool for this.
I'd highly recommend running all the cables to a patch panel. Ideally have them run to the same location as your modem and other networking equipment. You'd use the same punch down tool here as well.
If you need to terminate any cables to a normal Ethernet connector, it isn't difficult, but it is a bit tedious. The first one you do will take you a bit to do, but once you get the hang of it, each one will become a little quicker. you can watch a youtube video on how to do it.
You'll need a Crimping tool to crimp the ends on.
Get a Patch Panel, a Punch Down tool, a ethernet crimper, some ethernet ends (i prefer the EZ, but they are pricy), and a network tester. All that for $70 and you can terminate and troubleshoot all the cables you desire!
My personal kit is a little more expensive, but really the only thing I wouldn't trade for a cheaper tool is the tester. Crimper, Punchdown, Tester.
I agree, build you own kit. Below is my take. Know that some of those tools are not for every day use in networking, but who can resist getting more tools? Also, if you get all of these I realize it will be over $200. So, just use this list as a guide not a definitive list.
BAGS
ETHERNET TOOLS
SCREWDRIVERS
PLIERS and WRENCHES
POWER
MISC
SUPPLIES
Damn I didn't see the second and third pictures duh! So if you use that panel I showed you from amazon (or one like it, there's a lot of wires there) this may be a better choice.
https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Unshielded-Wallmount-Compatible-TC-P24C6/dp/B0000AZK72/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=patch+panel+wall+mount&qid=1550278079&s=gateway&sr=8-7
This panel will work with cat5 or cat6, I can't tell what type of wiring you have there but you'll need that
You'll also need some way to mount it on the wall, I used one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Hinged-Bracket-N060-004/dp/B000E887XU/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=patch+panel+wall+mount&qid=1550278079&s=gateway&sr=8-4
Now with the patch panel, you don't need to put ends on the wire. You use a punch down tool and they go into little clip type things. It makes more sense if you look at the pictures. Here is a punch down tool:
https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Punch-Krone-Blade-TC-PDT/dp/B0000AZK4D/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=punch+down+tool&qid=1550278185&s=gateway&sr=8-5
you're gonna need some patch cables to run from the patch panel to a switch. You're also gonna need a switch down there to connect all the ethernet cables together.
To mount the switch, you're gonna need a rack mount (to look the nicest, and a 19" rack switch).
A nice mount I used is this: https://www.amazon.com/NavePoint-Vertical-Mountable-Server-Hardware/dp/B01M151AOJ/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=vertical+rack+mount&qid=1550278400&s=gateway&sr=8-4
and then a switch, something like this (which I picked more or less at random) https://www.amazon.com/Linksys-LGS124-Rackmount-Unmanaged-Enclosure/dp/B00H1OQBLA/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=rack+mount+switch&qid=1550278467&s=gateway&sr=8-3 will do the job quite well. It's a gigabit unamanaged switch. You can spend a lot more if you want to, but this will probably do the job.
So from there, you need a cable from switch to that box in the first picture with the ethernet ports on the back.
That will give you wired internet in the whole house. Adding access points from there is trivial.
I know it's a lot of information, feel free to ask anything.
Edit: That verizon box in picture 3 looks like it might be more than just a modem, it might be a modem/router. If that's the case you can plug that into the switch. But if it's just a modem, that won't work even tho the ethernet port will physically connect. The best way to tell is that if it only has one ethernet port, then it's just a modem, if it has more than 1 then it's a modem/router.
First of all, does the wall plate in your office have just 1 phone line? 2 or all 4?
All 4 would be ideal, but you need at least 2 for this to work because Ethernet needs at least 2 pairs of wires.
Also if you only have 2 pairs of wires then you'll only get 100Mbit Ethernet. Gigabit Ethernet requires all 4 pairs.
This job would be made easier with a Tone & Probe kit (also known as a Toner). Simply plug the tone generator into the phone jack in your office, then go down to the basement with the probe and use it to identify the correct pair of wires.
Once you identify the pair of wires, you're going to have to remove all 4 pairs of wires (BlueWhite/Blue, OrangeWhite/Orange, GreenWhite/Green, BrownWhite/Brown) from the patch panel (the thing you showed in the picture)
It looks like you've got plenty of wire there to work with. Instead of crimping an RJ-45 plug directly on to the wire (and definitely DO NOT just twist the wires together), I would recommend punching the wire down to a surface-mount RJ-45 jack like this one.
You'll need a punchdown tool like this
As far as the jack in the office, You'll need to replace that too. You'll probably need to replace the wall plate as well.
Edit to make more clear
Only IF you have only 2 pairs of wires in the office
Then punching down the RJ45 jacks is a bit trickier. You still follow the [TIA-568B standard] (http://www.ertyu.org/steven_nikkel/ethernetcables.html) but you leave the Blue and Brown wires out (Pins 4,5,7 and 8).
It's going to be a bit confusing because the colors of the wires won't necessarily match the chart. Just make sure that you punch down each end of the cable the same way. Remember, you'll only be punching down pins 1,2,3 and 6.
Hope that helps. Good luck! :)
If you are running CAT cable around the house, you will probably want to run all the cable to a common point where they can connect to your patch panel, switch(es), servers/NAS and routers. Most people locate this place out of the way in a basement, to hide the clutter.
If you are running CAT cable you should really use CAT6A which is certified for 10G speed. CAT6 is not a standard. CAT6A is. I used shielded CAT6A. You should buy a spool of solid CAT6A wire that you can cut to specific lengths.One end gets wired to a keystone jack that is usually mounted in the wall of where you need to connect something. The other end is wired to the patch panel. The patch panel has normal jacks that you would use with regular premade patch cables to connect to switches which then connect to the server/NAS/router, etc.
Examples and tools needed:
CAT6A structure cable: https://www.firefold.com/064-series-cat6a-shielded-cable
Patch Panel: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQL46TY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Small Rack to hold patch panel and switches (servers would need bigger rack):https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VDPBXM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
keystone jacks: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CLVAJCK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Wall plate mounting bracket: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003JQL0S8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Keytone wall plate cover: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0072JVUPG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Tools:
Punch down tool:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AZK4D/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
LAN Cable tester: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OUFX38W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I had Cat6 run in my house a few years ago and had the electrician run one end into a closet and leave them unterminated. I patched them to this patch panel myself (even though I have nearly no electrical or wiring experience) using this punch down tool. It's a bit time consuming, but not hard at all. You can wall mount or rack mount (this is what I did) the patch panel then run short cat6 patch cables from the patch panel to your switch. If you do it yourself, be sure the electrician leaves a few extra feet on the unterminated end in the closet, just to give you some flexibility, and that he or she lets you know which standard was used on the terminated ends (since there's an A and a B standard and you'll have to know which to use on the patch panel).
Do you live anywhere near Phoenix?
If not they are not difficult. The ends are just keystone Cat(x) jacks that go into a wall plate.
You might borrow or buy a punch tool to make the connection.
This is a selection of what I keep in my tech go-bag. You'll build your kit as you learn and build experience, or realize you could have helped a customer out of a jam quicker if you had that tool with you.
Various extra parts I've accumulated over the years like screws, ATX Molex Power to SATA Power Adapters, ATX Molex Y splitters, SATA cables etc..
Good luck and some tools overlap like multi tools and pliers so if budget is low, go with the tool that covers the most jobs.
Edit: I noticed your bag is kind of expensive compared to something like a Dewalt tool bag. I use a plain Dewalt bag which is not as cool as the one in the link, but it's just as tough. This might be a good and less expensive consideration for you if you don't require the look of a briefcase for your tool bag.
Edit 2: You may want to mark your tools with a wrap of some crazy bright color electrical tape to be able to recognize them when they walk away.
All you need is a (cheap) punch down tool and some sort of a patch panel. It's really not that hard. If you have to pull any insulation back you might want to use a stripper. But you can probably just get away with small dykes. Just try and keep the twist as close to the punch down as you can---but it doesn't have to be perfect to work.
Also, there are two wiring standards 568A and 568B. They have to match on each end so you might want to pull one of your wall jacks to see how it is wired. Just Google for a wiring diagram to see the difference. Or your jack and panel might actually have both color coded on them and you can see which way they did the jacks.
I aways have used the B standard. IIRC the A standard provided backward compatibility with old AT&T standards. But if your jacks are A I would not change them to B.
Here's what I have found handy around the house:
I think the odds of me crimping RJ11/RJ12 are pretty slim, so I don't worry about that ability.
Personally, i'd opt for this instead of that tp-link plastic one. It's a few bucks more, but has a great track record.
http://www.amazon.com/Netgear-GS105NA-Prosafe-5-Port-Gigabit/dp/B0000BVYT3/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1459347764&sr=1-3&keywords=5+port+gigabit
The CMR looks good, though monoprice wire is cheaper for the same quality (spend some of that difference on the metal 5 port gige switch I pointed out above):
http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-1000-Feet-500Mhz-Copper-Ethernet/dp/B008I8AJIY/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1459347852&sr=1-1&keywords=monoprice+cat+6+cmr
I would also recommend against crimping your own cables. Solid core is not meant for crimping. Patch cables are super cheap, are certified for the speed, and in most cases save you time and money vs crimping your own.
Get this punchdown tool, it has both 110 and krohn. A lot of punchdowns are universal, and with those, the krohn works better.
http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Punch-Krone-Blade-TC-PDT/dp/B0000AZK4D/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1459348192&sr=1-1&keywords=trendnet+punch+down+tool
Source: I built this and wired my house to 1GigE
https://imgur.com/9vhZYS1
Just FYI, it's just an Ethernet jack. There's no such thing as an Ethernet splitter, because Ethernet uses point-to-point links only. The thing to use when you have one Ethernet connection and need more is a switch.
That looks to be a standard punch-down Ethernet jack. Get a punch-down tool. Remove the cover from the jack. The jack will have labels indicating which wire goes where for the A and B wiring schemes, note which was used. Pull the wires out. Move the cable to its new location. Trim the wires back a little so you aren't punching down the same bit of wire a second time. Put the wires in the jack's slots according to the same wiring scheme you noted earlier, and punch them down. If the tool has a cutoff blade, make sure it's facing away from the center of the jack so you're not cutting off wire you just punched down.
Also, the tech did a HORRIBLE job of terminating it. A properly punched jack should have the cable looking like this witht he cable entering from the back center of the jack and the individual wires being as short as possible.
And disregarding the horrible job he did of it, installing a jack is absolutely the right way to do this and certainly does not make him an idiot. The alternative would be to crimp a RJ45 plug onto it, which is much worse. The plug wouldn't fit through the hole either, can't be reused if you cut it off, and is much harder to install properly than a jack.
Also, keep the tool. Being able to run and terminate your own Ethernet is always a good thing. You've probably got quite a few devices that stay put (i.e. game consoles) that are on Wi-Fi but could and should be on Ethernet instead.
Well I'll be the first one to give you generic information that you could have found with the search function.
You just do the needful.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/032194318X/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3IXCECMPTZ0C5&coliid=IJFXHOHENJ2FH
https://www.amazon.com/dp/0321492668/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3IXCECMPTZ0C5&coliid=I3J2AR8V86JZMD
https://www.amazon.com/dp/0596007833/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3IXCECMPTZ0C5&coliid=I2OPTI4J0S4UG2
Good screwdriver set.
https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/64-Bit-Driver-Kit/IF145-299
A network tone tester in case you need to map out your network and document everything. Also functions as a basic cable tester.
https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-MT-8200-60-KIT-IntelliTone-Toner/dp/B00N2S6RPY/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1473701817&sr=8-5&keywords=fluke+networks+tester
A punch down tool.
https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Punch-Krone-Blade-TC-PDT/dp/B0000AZK4D/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473702091&sr=8-1&keywords=punchdown
An ethernet crimper.
https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-RJ-45-RJ-12-RJ-11-TC-CT68/dp/B0000AZK4G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473702137&sr=8-1&keywords=ethernet+crimper
A quick cable stripper.
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Stripper-Cutter-Cables-107051/dp/B0069LRBU6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1473702190&sr=8-3&keywords=ethernet+stripper
A usb hard drive dock.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Duplicator-Function-EC-HDD2/dp/B00IKC14OG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473702021&sr=8-2&keywords=usb+hard+drive+dock
A notebook.
https://www.amazon.com/Rhodia-Meeting-Book-Made-France/dp/B001DCDSW6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473702220&sr=8-1&keywords=rhodia+meeting+book
Your necessities may vary, this applies to more of a one-man shop, and there's plenty of other things you'll want to get that I don't have listed here depending on your job.
I dunno how much you should get paid.
As u/manarius5 point out the cat-5 cable is setup as phone; and you will need to change it over to network.
Best option is to get a patch panel, a punch down tool, jacks, 2x WAP; maybe this one. You might or might not need a switch, you might also want to consider going with POE to power the WAP. You would also want to get some cat-5 jumpers.
Please make sure your parents are not using POTS( plain old telephone); if they are, you can still do this, but would need to proceed with caution. Install new wall jacks, install new punch down block down stairs; when punching down, follow the color coding for A or B, dosn't matter which, just keep it the same on both sides. Move Comcast modem next to the location in your pictures. Setup the WAPs on either side of your house, plug the Roku in hard wire. This setup would use 3 ports on the Comcast modem/router, so no switch needed.
If your parents are still using the phone, only move the jacks to network that you are going to use.
A more advance solution would be to go with a wall mounted rack, Ubiquiti equipment for router, switching and WAPS, buy a cable modem and return the Comcast unit.
If you used the plastic tool that came with the jacks, they suck. Push and wiggle (parallel to the groove) to get the connections to terminate; but be careful not to cut the wires inside the jack - as opposed to just the excess.
Or make your life easier. Though if it's one-time it may not be worth it. Note how the blade is only on one side with that.
Other useful things:
What's the extra PITA? I did a few drops of CAT6 in my house and it's not that difficult. All are successful in one try.
This is what I use:
https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Punch-Krone-Blade-TC-PDT/dp/B0000AZK4D/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1472754190&sr=8-4&keywords=punch+down+impact+tool
Requires quite a bit of force but when it makes that slot machine sound, it works.
Is the original coax is going through a hole in the drywall or an actual wall plate?
You could get a
punch down tool
(1) keystone jack wall plate
(1) cat5e/cat6 RJ45 punch down keystone jack
(1) cat5e/cat6 RJ45 punch down surface mount box
The setup would be to make a run of your Ethernet cable (solid core) between the ONT and router. Terminate the Cat 6 in the basement with the surface mount box and attach a patch cable between it and the ONT. For the router side you would do the same except using a wall plate instead. If no wall plate then you could get two of the surface mount boxes.
You can get single pieces of what I linked at most home stores or places like Micro Center, etc.
So according to that picture, if they wired it according to the color coding, it's 568A, so if you were to wire it up yourself, make sure the OnQ side is 568A as well to save yourself 50% of the work. But all depends if they did the blue, orange, green, brown pairs accordingly, which I'd assume they would to make their life easier.
If you were to get an 8 port Cat5E patch panel, you're going to need a punchdown tool in order to get the wires hooked up to said patch panel. It isn't hard by any means, and there are tons of videos on Youtube about terminating ethernet cables into rj45 jacks as well as onto patch panels. It isn't rocket science by any means, and depending on your comfort level and if you want to buy what you'd need (watch youtube videos first, maybe you'll find terminating rj45's directly to plug into your switch to be your cup of tea), that might be a MUCH cheaper route than getting someone out there to do it. Maybe you have a friend that can assist, if they are into networking.
But absolutely, Cat5E is Cat5E, be it used for POTS (telephone) or home networking, it's the same media, just how it's terminated on both ends is what matters.
Here is an example of an 8 port Cat5E patch panel. It has color codings for 568A and 568B (in your pic above, 568A per the wall plate, if wired correctly):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LVZVUBO
Punch Down Tool w/ cutter (be careful when using that you pay attention which end the blade is so you don't cut the wrong side of the punch!):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AZK4D
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E58M5EG
This is just to hopefully give you an idea of what to search on Youtube for information. Glad to help, just research and research before tackling it yourself, but this isn't something that is going to be super difficult, but also don't want to see someone charge you $500 to do this job!
Good luck, and it's always fun to learn a new skill!
I had the same exact question for DIY subreddit a few months ago looking to do the same thing as you. Forget about the patch panel and the big box stores. Don't spend a ton of money. You are just wiring a couple rooms. You can get everything off Amazon or ebay for cheap. If you don't care about phone service then just cut the cables and crimp on new. Then plug all the crimped ends into a switch. No need for a panel. You can get a tester for cheap at amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/HDE-HDE-H11-Network-Cable-Tester/dp/B000P1OA1O/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1346567376&sr=8-2&keywords=network+cable+tester
I bought and used that one and it worked great. Probably not the best out there, but for a one time simple project to get a few rooms online it is more than enough.
The only thing to spend some money on is the punch down tool (Although doesn't look like you may need one based on your wall jacks). The ones that come free with other stuff are useless and will waste your time and wiring. This one worked well for me:
http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Punch-Krone-Blade-TC-PDT/dp/B0000AZK4D/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1346567733&sr=1-1&keywords=TRENDnet+Punch+Down+Tool+with+110+and+Krone+Blade+TC-PDT
Crimping is easy as hell if you use connectors like this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009JCVI6/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00
The crimping tool by the same brand actually cuts the excess wiring while you crimp. I did about 10 crimps and all worked perfect the first time. I bought a EZ RJ-45 $60 crimp tool from someone on ebay. Then sold it for the same amount two weeks later when I finished using it.
Each cable is for each room would this work You need to cut off the phone jacks and install CAT5e or better RJ-45 jacks with a punch down tool. Do this conversion at every place where you want network. Then in the basement you need to punch down the other end of each cable separately to a CAT5e or better patch panel. Then you need to run short CAT5e or better patch cords from the patch panel to an Ethernet switch. Finally you need to connect your router to the switch, either directly, or through one of the network jacks you installed in the house.
I have no experience with some of these specific items but I wouldn't hesitate to buy them from what I've seen:
The cable:
https://www.amazon.com/Outdoor-Shielded-Waterproof-Ethernet-trueCABLE/dp/B01JAVN1C8/
The "ends" -- these are keystone jacks. You could put RJ45 plugs on, but I think keystone jacks are more forgiving, plus it's more flexible since you can plug a patch cable into this. Also, putting RJ45 ends on this direct bury cable will be tricky since it will have thicker shielding.
https://www.amazon.com/10-Pack-Cat6-Keystone-Jack-Compatible/dp/B07JRD69V6
The punchdown tool -- you could get by with a cheaper/simpler one like this -- you'll probably want this for stripping the jacket (it does both), though a razor blade will work too:
https://www.amazon.com/Mini-Wire-Stripper-Rj45-Cat5-Cable/dp/B07MQB7STL/
This is kind of a basic middle of the road example of a proper punchdown tool, though the previous one is fine for a small amount of work.
https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Storage-Interchangeable-Reversible-TC-PDT/dp/B0000AZK4D/
Once punched down, you can plug those keystone jacks into wall plates like these:
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-10-Pack-Profile-Keystone/dp/B074HGPH18
Or surface mount boxes:
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-2-Port-Surface-Mount-107089/dp/B0069MDB9U/
You could even find a small patch panel.
Crap! Just bought pretty much the same items (different brands) less than 24 hrs ago on Amazon.
Product|Price|
:---------|---------:|
TRENDnet 8P/RJ-45 and 6P/RJ-12, RJ-11 Crimp, Cut, and Strip Tool, TC-CT68|$14.35
Network Cable Tester|$4.17
TRENDnet Punch Down Tool with 110 and Krone Blade TC-PDT|$20.34
CableWholesale CNE16127 RJ45 CAT-5 E Crimp Connector Solid|$4.55
C2G / Cables to Go 27352 Cat5E UTP Solid PVC CMR-Rated Cable, Grey (1000 Feet/304.8 Meters)|$99.85
Used CAT5E since CAT6 would be overkill for my needs and the budget is always tight.
You need a punch tool. It's likely that the jacks are fine, but the push tool isn't doing a good enough job.
This is the one I have at home:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AZK4D/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_yac5Cb49KNM3H
​
A good punch tool serves two purposes:
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By pushing the wire all the way down in the the connector, it's forcing the V-shaped metal blades to bite into the wire. It doesn't look like the push tool you're using is pushing it enough to bite into the wire.
>Personally, i'd opt for this instead of that tp-link plastic one. It's a few bucks more, but has a great track record.
http://www.amazon.com/Netgear-GS105NA-Prosafe-5-Port-Gigabit/dp/B0000BVYT3/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1459347764&sr=1-3&keywords=5+port+gigabit
Same guts? I picked the plastic... cus Im cheap but mostly because I think the front ports look sloppy in a HT cabinet or on a desk.
>The CMR looks good, though monoprice wire is cheaper for the same quality (spend some of that difference on the metal 5 port gige switch I pointed out above):
http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-1000-Feet-500Mhz-Copper-Ethernet/dp/B008I8AJIY/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1459347852&sr=1-1&keywords=monoprice+cat+6+cmr
Thanks! swapped for monoprice
>I would also recommend against crimping your own cables. Solid core is not meant for crimping.
ok then, I really wasn't looking forward to crimping a dozen cable but I felt like Ill have so much cat6 it would be a waste not to make my own.
>Get this punchdown tool, it has both 110 and krohn. A lot of punchdowns are universal, and with those, the krohn works better.
http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Punch-Krone-Blade-TC-PDT/dp/B0000AZK4D/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1459348192&sr=1-1&keywords=trendnet+punch+down+tool
So what your saying is most of these keytones labeled 110 will except a krohn style punch? Id like minimize my cost and the 110/66 punch I linked is basically in my hands, its still worth going with this other tool?
So should I bother with the crimper/rj45 ends at all? Just buy a pack of 3ft patch cables and be done with it?
>Source: I built this and wired my house to 1GigE
https://imgur.com/9vhZYS1
nice rack (giggity)
TRENDnet Punch Down Tool with 110 and Krone Blade TC-PDT https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AZK4D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LAJYAbB8B0HVF
This is what I have.
Network Tech here..
This is the tool to properly punch down those wires into the white block (known as a keystone RJ45 jack)
If you're only doing one though, you can punch the cables into the grooves with a pair of tweezers or a small screw driver (gently!) and trim the wires flush with the side of the block with a sharp utility knife.
If you bought a standard 110 punchdown like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/TRENDnet-Punch-Krone-Blade-TC-PDT/dp/B0000AZK4D/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=110+tool&qid=1566482829&s=diy&sr=1-6 then it has blades for 110 and Krone and you'd be using the Krone blade with it. (That's the type most network engineers in the UK carry, only branded and more expensive.)
While you can get good punches with those, you need to make sure your keystone is on a good solid surface, and press down cleanly and smoothly; make sure not to "rock" the tool from side to side as it might crimp or otherwise damage the wire. (A keystone "stand" might help) Your keystone should also have come with a protector which you should use immediately as it helps seat the wire as well.
If you expect to do this regularly, the investment in a real 110 punch-down tool is worth it. I'm a huge fan of the comfort-grip Fluke, but there are many other brands which will do just as good of a job for a quarter of the price (they're just not as comfortable or feature-packed).
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000FGWPK2/
Fluke Comfort Punch: $70
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0000AZK4D/
TrendNet 110 Punch: $17
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B008NXK3NU/
Keystone Stand: $6
IMO a 110/66 punch-down tool is the only cabling tool a networker still needs in her bag.