Reddit reviews Tripp Lite 12-Port Wallmount Cat5e Patch Panel 568B, RJ45 Ethernet(N050-012)
We found 25 Reddit comments about Tripp Lite 12-Port Wallmount Cat5e Patch Panel 568B, RJ45 Ethernet(N050-012). Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
12-Port Cat5e Wall Mount Patch Panel 568BEasy wallmounting with included 89B bracket110 Punch down on rear of panelMetal frame, includes mounting bracketLifetime warranty
Can't really tell from this picture, but alot of times, it looks like ethernet, but it ends up not being terminated correctly, or setup for something like voice only or some other non-standard thing.
If it were me, I'd make a small investment in the following;
If you are lucky, whomever setup that panel wired it correctly, and the runs will test out. If you are not lucky, you'll need to take the next step and fix it yourself. This will require some more stuff;
There are many tutorials on the web on how to terminate Ethernet - essentially, you're going to need to make sure that the wires are terminated properly on the punch panel (in your living room) to the specifics on the keystone jack at the far end. Most likely, the jack at the far end looks something like this - https://www.amazon.com/Generic-Keystone-Ethernet-Compatible-Connector/dp/B014RAT7ZC/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1504982947&sr=1-6&keywords=keystone+jack
If you get the connectivity right, and that cable has all the pairs (8), you should be able to connect, and be on the road.
Not sure where you are located, but usually Fry's or MicroCenter is a good place to source these tools.
Holler back if you need more info.
Assuming that each run goes from the jack in the wall back to the junction box, it is very easy to fix the wiring. Begin by pulling off all of the wall plates, and check to see if all 8 wires are terminated in the jack.
terminated
If they are, I would purchase a patch panel and terminate all of the wires in it. You need to make sure the color layout on the jacks is the same as the panel, because there are two different standards. You can find this out by looking on the jack itself, and you should see a template that states A and B, and the wires SHOULD (as long as the low voltage installer was competent) follow one of those standards. Just write down which is being used, and then use the same standard when terminating the other end of the wires in the patch panel. The only tool you need to accomplish this is a punch down tool.
As long as the wires are in the wall, the hard part is done! Terminating them just takes a little time, but is very easy to do. Once you have them terminated in the patch panel, throw in a switch/router and you are all set!
Most of what lbstrange1 wrote is incorrect.
That is a 66 block. It is completely unnecessary unless you are planning on having multiple phone lines in your home. Pull off all of the wires and throw the 66 block away.
If you want to go the cheap route just crimp RJ45 male connectors onto the end of each cable. There are YouTube videos that will show you how to properly crimp them. Make sure you are using 568B configuration.
If you want to make it look nice buy one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000067SC6
Use the previously mentioned punch down tool to terminate the wires. DO NOT strip the wires first. Make sure you punch it down as 568B.
I'm willing to bet that your home builder's contractor installed RJ11 phone jacks throughout your home. If so you'll need these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00111AAZ2/
Install them at each wall jack location using 568B configuration.
Finally, you'll need a switch as was previously stated. However it does not connect directly to your modem. You need to connect it to your router.
I wouldn't risk my network hardware on, "Gee, I don't think the other end is connected to anything ..." You won't be a happy camper, if you let the smoke out!
I think the problem is that the PC board shorts everything together, in order to distribute a telephone line(s) throughout the house. You will want to remove that PC board and terminate each off those cables individually at a patch panel, such as this:
https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Wallmount-Ethernet-N050-012/dp/B000067SC6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481104803&sr=8-1&keywords=rj45+punch+down+block
Then from the patch panel, you'll need patch cables to connect each line to a switch.
> I don't think there are any non-rack-mounted patch panels
"wall mount patch panel" is what you're looking for.
Those are much easier than screwing with keystones in a place you're going to have a bunch of cables.
That's definitely wired for pots. Buy an Ethernet patch panel like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Wallmount-Ethernet-N050-012/dp/B000067SC6
and replace it.
Then connect your router or switch and away you go.
That isn't for ethernet. It's for Telephone. That's why it says "4X10 Phone 110 Terminal". Even if they wired it with CAT5e (which many do because it's easier to use CAT5e for both then also carry around CAT3) it would only work as a hub, and not a switch. You would need something more like this
unless you are in a really old house, it is easy to do. And I recommend something like this near your switch.
https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Wallmount-Ethernet-N050-012/dp/B000067SC6/ref=sr_1_18?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1541083064&sr=1-18&keywords=patch+panel
This would be my suggestion instead, and buy a small project a size sheet of plywood to strap this and anything else to.
https://amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000067SC6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492445352&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=N050-012&dpPl=1&dpID=41hQ9gMdexL&ref=plSrch
It's not quite as bad as /u/Baneken says, once you get the hang of it.
But don't do that anyway. As others have said, you should have all the wires terminated to a single point, a wiring closet if you will. That termination should be to patch panel, like one of these, there are different sizes.
https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Wallmount-Ethernet-N050-012/dp/B000067SC6
At the wall, you'd have a single gang knockout ring (or a normal electrical single gang box, but the hollow low voltage ones are fine):
https://www.amazon.com/Arlington-LV1-1CS-Voltage-Mounting-Bracket/dp/B000UEAJWU/ref=pd_sim_60_6?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000UEAJWU&pd_rd_r=444PKXMFYMP91YT4VSM5&pd_rd_w=mXEmp&pd_rd_wg=qvgXv&psc=1&refRID=444PKXMFYMP91YT4VSM5
Then a bunch of keystone jacks and a wall plate.
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Cat6-Punch-Keystone-105384/dp/B019WKW9U2/ref=sr_1_8?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1498906038&sr=1-8&keywords=keystone+jack
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-106727-2-Hole-1-Gang-Keystone/dp/B002DI48NM/ref=pd_sim_147_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B002DI48NM&pd_rd_r=A1ZWMZGZVRP2V1NT9MZV&pd_rd_w=DssNH&pd_rd_wg=JmKLq&psc=1&refRID=A1ZWMZGZVRP2V1NT9MZV
To go from the wall or from that patch panel to your equipment, you'd then just buy a pre-made (stranded) network cable.
There are some different rj45 jacks, which are designed to make the job a lot easier, but between the tools and the connectors being $2 each, it's not worth it. Those links are just for reference, so you can see what I'm talking about.
If your guy is just throwing rj45 jacks and letting the cables dangle like that out of a hole in the wall, then he has no idea what he's doing.
this ^
just to add to his comments. that enclosure panel looks like it's one of those "pre drilled" panels that has accompanying add-ons such as teleco, network, video modules that you can add on to. while i'm not a big fan of using those types of network components, you might look up the brand of the enclosure and see what's available for it.
or you can just get something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Wallmount-Ethernet-N050-012/dp/B000067SC6
...and screw it down with self tapping screws and just use that punch down tool you linked with the 110 blade. (practice first on a lower port if it's your first time using one of those... but they're fairly easy to use.... just keep it straight when punching down). same thing when punching down the Ethernet keystones in each room.
beginner's tip when punching down on those blocks: screw down the white bracket where you want it (make sure all cables reach first!). Then snap the punch panel backwards to give you a clear view of the back of each port. makes it easier to punch. then when you're done, un-snap it and snap it back the correct way. again... make sure cables all reach before screwing it down. if you have extra cable, i say punch it down with the extra then when you're done punching, push the excess cable back into the wall. depending on the height of the bracket, it's best to have a step ladder to get you chest level or so to the bracket... makes punching straight easier.
hope this helps.
For permanent installs, I recommend using a patch panel. Cat5 ends eventually go bad, and you never want to rerun a cable. Other than that, it looks great.
Panel panel is great recommendation
https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Wallmount-Ethernet-N050-012/dp/B000067SC6/
Just need a 110 punch down.
I don't even think OP should have used an actual rack like that. The best thing for homes is a simple, wall-mount patch panel, which are inexpensive and easy to use. It's what I used in my basement. You can usually wall-mount a 5-port switch, too, they usually have those slots for screws in the back.
But if you really must have a 19" rack, you can get 4U wall mountable racks fairly cheaply, or a flush mount 1U rack, or if you need something sturdier. But I've seen those mounted; they stick out much further than you think they do when you picture them in your head.
then it is for phone. You may get a patchpanel, remove the wiring from the phone panel, and use a punch tool to connect it to the ethernet patch panel. You would need to run power to that location and connect each patch panel port to the switch/router that you locate there.
Note: this only works if all 8 wires were connected in the wall sockets. If there are only 2 of the 8 connected, redo them.
Punch tool: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FHBZJ20/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 )
Patch panel: e.g. https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Wallmount-Ethernet-N050-012/dp/B000067SC6/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1495168315&sr=1-4&keywords=patch+panel
I did the same in my apartment last weekend. There was already a patch panel for ethernet, but all wiring was connected to the phone panel.
As u/manarius5 point out the cat-5 cable is setup as phone; and you will need to change it over to network.
Best option is to get a patch panel, a punch down tool, jacks, 2x WAP; maybe this one. You might or might not need a switch, you might also want to consider going with POE to power the WAP. You would also want to get some cat-5 jumpers.
Please make sure your parents are not using POTS( plain old telephone); if they are, you can still do this, but would need to proceed with caution. Install new wall jacks, install new punch down block down stairs; when punching down, follow the color coding for A or B, dosn't matter which, just keep it the same on both sides. Move Comcast modem next to the location in your pictures. Setup the WAPs on either side of your house, plug the Roku in hard wire. This setup would use 3 ports on the Comcast modem/router, so no switch needed.
If your parents are still using the phone, only move the jacks to network that you are going to use.
A more advance solution would be to go with a wall mounted rack, Ubiquiti equipment for router, switching and WAPS, buy a cable modem and return the Comcast unit.
Best is to install a patch panel in the utility room instead of using RJ45 connectors. Make sure it says Cat5, Cat6 cable is a different wire gauge (thickness) Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Wallmount-Ethernet-N050-012/dp/B000067SC6
There you could also place a switch: https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16833122822
One of the jacks in your house would link that to your modem and then all the network jacks in the house will be active.
Once you get that sorted out you might want to consider 1-2 additional wifi access points at strategic locations to optimize wifi coverage.
Normally you do not want to affect the signal level of the modem, relocating farther causes attenuation (loss) unless you use something higher than RG6. Are you able to login to it to see it's levels? I keep mine as close to service entrance as possible, cat6 to where it needs to go from there. I would supply them myself for quality purposes. And you dont wan't sharp bends, pinching etc. Bend radius should be 6".
All your wall plates should terminate centrally, normally to a patch panel or to an identical wallplate with keystone.
Leave yourself some/all drop ceiling. It helps for future upgrades or other service related work such as drains.
Yeah, Webpass is pretty fantastic. The best ISP I've ever had. They've confirmed they have service in our development so they come into the picture somewhere.
It's 2004 construction, yeah. Yes, there is power in the closet and if not I'll have my electrician add an outlet (we're doing a bunch of work so adding an outlet won't be a problem if needed). I have Webpass coming out a week from today to set up service in the new place, so that will be instructive.
I found this patch panel from Tripp-Lite. Is retermination something I can do myself if I watch some videos and buy some basic tools or should I have a pro come out and do it for me?
EDIT: I just looked at another photo I took and there's an outlet about 6 inches below and to the left of the panel I took photos of. Good to go on power.
I've used this one a number of times and have been extremely happy with it. BUT, it's only Cat5e and only 12 ports.
Maybe try something like this it's still only 12 port but if you want wall mount you could put two side by side?
You can wall-mount some patch panels, might be a nice compromise for you. But no, you don't need it. You can just terminate your cables with RJ-45 and connect them where needed.
https://smile.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Wallmount-Ethernet-N050-012/dp/B000067SC6?sa-no-redirect=1&th=1
Another option, but very much inline with what others have suggested, a 12 port wall-mount patch panel:
https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Wallmount-Ethernet-N050-012/dp/B000067SC6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466764939&sr=8-1&keywords=tripp+lite+12-port+wallmount+cat5e+patch+panel+568b+rj45+ethernet+n050-012
They come with their own mounting bracket and might be a little easier to work with in your situation. You won't have to buy any extra pieces to make that work in your wiring closet. Also, much cheaper (per port) than the Leviton equipment you were first looking at.
12-port wall-mount patch panel: https://smile.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Wallmount-Ethernet-N050-012/dp/B000067SC6
Your wall plate idea is also fine though.
Looks Krone to me. https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Wallmount-Ethernet-N050-012/dp/B000067SC6 Small 66 style patch panel block for cheap.
Hello, great article. I’ve been having a hard time finding a basic guide for setting home a home WiFi network using Ethernet cables. Every room in my house has the cabling for it but I don’t know what my hub ought to look like coming from the Verizon FiOS terminal. This is where I will eventually have my smart home hub as well (haven’t gotten to research that yet). Do I need one of these: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Ethernet-Unmanaged-Protection-GS105NA/dp/B0000BVYT3
Or this? https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Wallmount-Ethernet-N050-012/dp/B000067SC6
If not full article-worthy, any tips would be much appreciated. Thanks!