Reddit reviews Ubiquiti Networks Unifi 802.11ac Dual-Radio PRO Access Point (UAP-AC-PRO-US), Single,White
We found 134 Reddit comments about Ubiquiti Networks Unifi 802.11ac Dual-Radio PRO Access Point (UAP-AC-PRO-US), Single,White. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
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Here's the composition of the rack:
Elsewhere in the house/other useful parts:
Useful things I learned:
All you need:
1x UniFi Security Gateway
2x UniFi AP AC Pro
Optional: 1x UniFi Switch 8-60w. You will need some sort of switch as the USG only has one LAN port. You can use an ordinary unmanaged switch, which will be much cheaper, but then you'll need to use the PoE injectors to power the APs (they're included with the APs). This switch will power them on its own.
Optional: 1x UniFi Cloud Key. This is just a dedicated device for running the UniFi Controller, which is what you use to configure and manage all UniFi devices. You can run it on a PC instead if you want.
But since you're doing a total gut renovation, you should take the opportunity to do your network right. Your goal shouldn't be to put everything on Wi-Fi, it should be to put as many things as possible on Ethernet, and just use Wi-Fi where Ethernet isn't an option. Anything that stays put, i.e. TVs, desktop computers, streaming media players, game consoles, even printers should always use Ethernet if they support it. The more things you get off the Wi-Fi, the faster it'll be for the things that need it.
First, figure out where your network hub will be, all your lines will run to it. It's where you'll have your modem, router, and main switch. The best location is a basement, but if you don't have one, use a utility closet/room. Make sure the location is ventilated and not too hot.
Next figure out how many Ethernet lines you need. Minimum is one to every location where you'll have a TV or desk, but this is likely to necessitate additional switches. Ideally, you should run five to the location of your main entertainment center and two to every other TV and desk location. You'll also need one for each AP, these will run to the spots on the ceiling where you'll put the APs. You'll also want to run a coaxial cable to each TV location. Once you know how many Ethernet lines you need, you need to get at least that many punch-down keystone jacks (minus two, as the AP lines won't need them), a punch-down patch panel with at least that many ports, and a gigabit switch with at least this many ports (plus one for the router). Make sure your patch panel and jacks match the category rating of your cable, i.e. Cat5e or Cat6. You'll also need a few RJ45 plugs (get ones made for solid-conductor cable) and punch-down and crimping tools.
For the cable, you'll want solid conductor, pure copper cable. Don't get stranded cable, and don't get cable made of copper clad aluminum (CCA). Make sure it's riser rated, but don't get plenum rated cable. Cat5e is all you need for gigabit, and it's cheaper and easier to terminate. Get Cat6 if you want to future-proof for 10 gigabit. Get a 1000 foot bulk spool, Monoprice is a good place to get it.
You'll also need a bunch of pre-made Ethernet patch cables. You can make your own, but it's tricky to get right and time-consuming. You'll first need one for connecting each patch panel port to a switch port. These should be as short as possible, 1-3 feet. Two more for connecting the switch to the router and the router to the modem. Two more if you'll be using the PoE injectors to power the APs. All of these should still be as short as possible. Then you'll need one for connecting each Ethernet-using device to one of the wall jacks that you'll be installing, these should be 6 feet or longer if necessary.
When you do the install, first mount the patch panel at your network hub location. Run each line from the patch panel to a keystone jack, which will go in a keystone wall plate which mounts to a low-voltage bracket. The AP lines won't get keystone jacks, these (and only these) will get RJ45 plugs to connect directly to the APs. Once all the lines are installed, set up the main switch. Connect each port of the patch panel to a switch port. If you're using PoE injectors to power the APs, connect the PoE port of each injector to an AP port on the patch panel and the LAN port to the switch. Finally, connect the router's LAN port to the switch and the router's WAN/Internet port to the modem/ONT.
I think it's only a difference of $50, not $120. But personally, the standard POE on the PRO is worth it.
Lite
Pro
Op - Go buy a Unifi:
https://smile.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-AC-PRO-US/dp/B015PRO512/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504882410&sr=8-1&keywords=unifi+ac+pro
They are the best WIFI solution I'm come across.
That link is NOT the UAP-AC-Pro. It's the older UAP-Pro, which is an 802.11n only product. You do NOT want that one.
You want this one: https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-AC-PRO-US/dp/B015PRO512/
That's the new UAP-AC-Pro. It's $130ish. It supports 802.11ac (3x3 antennas) and true 802.3af PoE.
The UAP-AC-Lite is around $80ish as I recall. It also supports 802.11ac but with only 2x2 antennas, and it uses special 24v passive PoE so you have to use the Ubiquiti injector or a special Ubiquiti switch.
The difference between real PoE and passive PoE is that real 802.3af PoE has a handshake sequence for safety. When you plug an 802.3af device into a compatible switch, the device signals that it needs PoE power and then the power flow is turned on. This prevents damage to non-PoE devices.
Passive PoE just means that power is sent down the line without consideration for what's on the other end. If you plug a non-PoE device into a Passive PoE port, that non-PoE device will receive PoE and will usually be damaged or destroyed as a result.
Please note that the injectors included with either device are passive. IE, the UAP-AC-Pro's included injector is JUST an injector, no handshake.
The best way to do things is to get a real PoE switch like a Ubiquiti US-8-150W or a Netgear GS110TP, and the Ubiquiti UAP-AC-Pro.
However if this is the only PoE device that you have or will have, then you're fine to just buy the Lite and use the power injector... just be careful which port goes where :)
All the links contain affiliate links (tag=lx7-20&linkId=fe646f143f52bb0de1504aa396676d4e). Unaffiliated links are below. The user has posted affiliate links before, so I believe this is not an "Oops" mistake. The users also posted this in Beermoney as well, but it was removed because of the affiliate links included.
_____
Access Point - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PRO512/
Router - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YFJT29C
Powerline Adapter - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EE9APYS
Modem -https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016PE1X5K
Ethernet Cables - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E5I7VJG
Alright, best case scenario time.
For a heavy workload you want 15 or less clients per access point. You can do up to 30 per AP but performance drops off quickly.
At minimum you will need 5 AP's. 10 is going to be far more realistic.
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-AC-PRO-US/dp/B015PRO512
Even an entry level pro-consumer radio like the UAP-AC-PRO is $137 a piece. So almost $1400 already.
Beefy edge router and a switch will also be on the shopping list. Sticking with theme of Ubiquiti for this theoretical build:
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Edgerouter-Router-ERPro-8/dp/B00IA5J8M8
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Edgeswitch-Gigabit-ES-24-LITE/dp/B012GUVIY8
$530. Of course, this gear is so popular because that price is considered rock bottom if you ask anyone that works with Cisco gear.
Now, the real cost of this build is the client adapters. With 10 AP's you have 10 clients per AP and each AP has 3 streams available so your clients should have matching adapters. 1300Mbps is the theoretical maximum but you can't have that because wi-fi is half duplex, and then halve it again because you aren't testing in a Faraday cage. So 325mb/s is a reasonable expectation for a single client on an unloaded AP. With 10 clients joined you might get closer to 500mb/s total.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
Wireless Network Adapter | TP-Link Archer T9E PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter | $79.99 @ Best Buy
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $79.99
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-05 19:37 EDT-0400 |
Oh dear me. $8000 in wireless adapters. Plus that $1730 in networking gear. Add a thousand more for the time it will take to get the hardware installed.
Now go ahead and break down the cost of Cat6 cabling plus enough switch ports for your clients. Multiply it by .5 to account for how much faster and lower latency a wired network will be. CAD files are usually a bit large, I'm sure it will be noticed.
Buy one of these https://www.amazon.ca/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-Access/dp/B015PRO512
Put it in a central location and any device that supports 802.11ac should be able to max out a 150mbps connection.
It only needs one network cable run to it (the power goes over the network cable too) so it's pretty easy to run. Maybe you can run the cable through a cold air return from your mech room.
It's enterprise hardware so it'll likely out perform any $500 consumer grade router out there. I run one of the lower models and it's the best upgrade I've ever made for my home wifi. No drops, rock solid, only had to reboot it once in three years.
Correct.
My connectivity issues all disappeared when I moved from a Netgear Night Hawk router with Shibby's Tomato Firmware to an Ubiquiti EdgeRouterX and UniFi AP AC Pro.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YFJT29C/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PRO512/
Again, took a bit to get up and running but once I did -- I'll never go back to consumer networking gear. The LIFX bulb connections have been rock-solid ever since that move... In fact, 3 of the top 5 devices with the most "connectivity uptime" are LIFX bulbs. The other 2 being the Nest Protects. 😊
Don't buy anything you listed.
If you truly had no budget:
-AP: http://www.amazon.com/Meraki-Cloud-Managed-Wireless-Access/dp/B00FA1TNZ2
-Router: http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Edgerouter-Router-ERPro-8/dp/B00IA5J8M8
For your budget:
-AP: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PRO512
-Router: http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeRouter-Advanced-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00YFJT29C
For Wifi, Unifi Access Points are often recommended by /r/HomeNetworking. Having a few AP-AC-PRO's is probably what I'd go for. (Enterprise-grade hardware on the cheap, and not much more difficult to setup than consumer AP's either)
Also a mesh system trades speed for coverage. It's usually only recommended when it's difficult to route multiple ethernet lines to separate access points. I know Unifi systems support seamless handoff between AP's, acting just like a mesh system.
Check out /r/HomeNetworking for more insight. They can give some good advice, especially since a streaming house isn't exactly a typical scenario.
>Plus it all seems inefficient since I already have the LAN throughout the house.
If you already have Ethernet pulled to places all over the house, then wired Access Points is the obvious and correct answer.
Ubiquiti is the king of reliable Access Points. But switching to Ubiquiti requires a bit more knowledge than your typical wireless router / repeater system, so if you choose this, you'll have to do a bit of learning too.
For 900 sqft on two floors, you can likely get away with just one Access Point mounted on the First Floor in the Center. That would easily cover the floor, plus very likely cover the floors above and below it too. A Ubiquiti nanoHD is my go-to recommendation lately, but if you are trying to save some money, an AC-LITE is fine.
nanoHD:
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Internal-1733Mbit-Ethernet/dp/B07FFNTLJD/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=nanohd&qid=1574904222&s=electronics&sr=1-4
AC-PRO:
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-AC-PRO-US/dp/B015PRO512/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=nanohd&qid=1574903775&s=electronics&sr=1-5
AC Lite:
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=sxin_2_ac_d_rm?ac_md=0-0-YWMgbGl0ZQ%3D%3D-ac_d_rm&keywords=ac+lite&pd_rd_i=B015PR20GY&pd_rd_r=382f4fce-b8fd-41f5-9d83-2ce30c7d4867&pd_rd_w=2JjVi&pd_rd_wg=IV1TH&pf_rd_p=e2f20af2-9651-42af-9a45-89425d5bae34&pf_rd_r=BRFTH2F9ZHRVN6T7YH6B&psc=1&qid=1574903705
Since you already have Ethernet presumably at ground level, you can also consider the Ubiquiti In-Wall units as well. These units provide you Wireless Access Points PLUS they give you two Ethernet ports at ground level. If you can get your gamer and game machines plugged into Ethernet instead of wireless, you'll have the ideal setup (streaming and other things are fine on wireless).
So maybe 1 ceiling mounted AP in the middle of the first floor, one in wall where the gamer is (for Ethernet ports as well as supplemental WiFi on the second floor), and maybe one In-Wall in the basement if needed (good chance it won't be).
AC-In-Wall:
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-UAP-AC-Iw-Wireless-Access/dp/B06XZLP8Q6/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1YA0NR13TWSGZ&keywords=ubiquiti+in+wall&qid=1574903832&s=electronics&sprefix=ubiquiti+in+w%2Celectronics%2C199&sr=1-2
If you do get 2-3 Ubiquiti APs, you'll probably want a PoE switch to power them all. This is another expense, unfortunately, but makes installation much cleaner.
>Based on what I've read (and experienced before) one kungfu wireless router isn't likely to provide adequate coverage throughout the house.
If you didn't want to go the Ubiquiti route, your house is actually a pretty good candidate for an Asus or Netgear, since it's 900sf stacked on top of each other. These consumer routers are pretty good these days. Unless your house is all brick and metal, I don't see why it wouldn't cover it.
That makes more sense. That would totally work. Pretty much any router put into access point mode would work. I was using an old Asus router as an access point for a while but it overheated and eventually died. I can highly recommend a Ubiquiti access point. Its what I eventually switched to and I'm extremely happy with it overall.
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-AC-PRO-US/dp/B015PRO512/
Ubiquiti Networks Unifi 802.11ac Dual-Radio PRO Access Point (UAP-AC-PRO-US) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PRO512/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1uY.ybZ0ZY0V0
You must have gotten a dud because mine has work flawlessly for over a year.
Well, some free advice that you can take or leave - you spent entirely too much money on that router. I mean, there's overspending and then there's overspending. You overspent big time. You paid for that router what equipment from Ruckus costs.
You will recieve exactly zero benefit from 802.11ad, considering you have no devices which can use this speed, your internet provider will not come close to maxing out AC in the next 10 years, along with the fact that your average x265 compressed 4K stream is about 12 mbps. You might, maybe possibly find one that is 100 mbit. Regardless,you have no need whatsoever for 802.11ad.
As far as your wifi coverage, all you need is a decent 3x3 router with normal antennas. Funky plastic desinged to look like a stealth bomber does nothing for your wifi. The following router/access point is $90 bucks at Microcenter, amazon, or newegg
http://www.microcenter.com/product/414584/ARCHER_C7_Wireless_AC1750_Dual_Band_Gigabit_Router
If you need you can even buy two for less than half of what you did pay. It is what I use at home, they work well.
You could also explore Ubiquiti AC-Pro access point models, but it does seem like you need a router. But, again, you can buy three of these for less than one access point you did buy, and they will cover every square inch of your house.
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-AC-PRO-US/dp/B015PRO512
Lastly, your offer of $20 bucks an hour is low. Good IT is $100/hour on the low end. But, your suggestion of $150 is a fair price for someone to come and do this job right for you.
Uhm, none of the above? Yeah none of the above. It looks like you are looking to spend around $200-230 for your networking gear, which is fine, we can work with that!
Total is around $210
Now here is the thing with this setup. You will mount your access point on the ceiling as close to the center of your home as you can. It will give you much better coverage than the netgear setups, as well as a far more mature and stable access point. If in the future you decide you need better coverage still you can just buy a second one and hook it up, make sure to wire it back into the switch as well. The access point comes with a PoE injector so you only need to run a single line to it.
You are buying gear for your business, buy business grade gear :) Especially because it costs you the same anyway.
A lot of the "ooh" and "aah" factor of a home is in the kitchen and bathrooms. That's also where you get the most money back at resale.
So if you're deciding where to spend money, that's where to spend it.
You've probably been advised to run ethernet network wiring. I'd also plan to hide wireless access points like these in the attic or other hidden areas. You will be amazed how much you enjoy stable, fast wifi access throughout the house for your various devices. Wired ethernet is better, but most devices these days have wifi built in and don't need gigabit transfer speeds. Just use it.
Where will your broadband modem go? Now's the time to plan for distribution of TV/network/etc. and designate an "IT closet."
Decide now where you might want wall-mounted TVs and plan for it with power and other connections. A nice recessed outlet with cable management can make that whole process much simpler.
In the garage, at the least, wire for 20A outlets. You never know if a future tool or device will need a lot of power, and it's not fun to retrofit. Is there a possibility that you'll ever have an electric vehicle or plug-in hybrid? If so, wire one 240v/90A circuit for each potential EV. That'll max out a new Tesla, even if it has the high-amperage charger upgrade.
I adore having a separate beverage/wine fridge and separate under-counter ice maker. They're expensive, but they make hosting a party much easier. Another must-have is a built-in warming drawer. It's super convenient and I can't believe how often we use ours to keep something warm while the rest of dinner is finishing up or because someone was late getting home and didn't get to eat with the family.
That particular seller is too pricy for the AC pro and probably distorting your decision.
http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-Access/dp/B015PRO512/
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1184036-REG/ubiquiti_networks_uap_ac_pro_unifi_ap.html
I'd still take 2 AC lites over 1 ac pro though if that was the choice.
Get this and this and you'll never have a problem ever again
Everyone is telling you to get a gigabit switch and put all your routers into AP mode. They're forgetting one important thing. You still need a router/firewall on your incoming connection. I recommend the following:
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-AC-PRO-US/dp/B015PRO512
When you purchase individual APs from that link above, the PoE injector comes with it. The 5 pack does not have injectors so you'd need to buy those separately. Now depending on the size of each floor, you might need more than one AP one the floor. In WiFi, you never want to max out the transmit power. This seems like an odd thing to say. But think about it, if you're in a lecture hall, you can hear the professor easily because he's using a mic and speakers. However, if you have a question you have to speak very loudly (since you sit at the back of the room). It's possible you can't speak loudly enough for him to hear you. This is the same for wireless devices. Just because you blast your AP, doesn't mean that long distance devices have the power to talk back. This wastes your battery. This is the reason for multiple APs.
This isn't really that bad, price wise. These devices will allow the frat to have good signal strength throughout the house. If you have more questions or would like assistance with the config, I'd be happy to help.
I would not suggest using a bunch of consumer routers for such a situation. Instead, use some dedicated hardware. Depending on how technical you are, you might be better off hiring this work out, but if I were in your shoes, I'd be looking at either a gaggle of Ubiquiti's UAP-AC-Lite WAPs, their UAP-AC-IW, or a combination, depending on where they'd need to be installed.
They are controlled via Ubiquiti's free UniFi Controller software, which can be run via their Cloud Key, on a RasPi 2 or 3, or a Windows / Linux / OSX system. You can also configure basic settings through the iOS or Android apps if you don't wish to use their Controller software. With the UniFi Controller software, all settings for all access points are in one UI. You can easily add / remove WAPs as needed.
They are PoE powered, so you don't have to have power run to whichever locations you decide to install them (a limitation you will have with a bunch of consumer routers), and they come with the PoE injector needed. You can also power them from a PoE switch, but be aware that the UAP-AC-Lite doesn't use 802.1at/af PoE specs -- it uses a 24v passive PoE, and there aren't many switches (that I'm aware of) that support it. If you go this route, you might look at the UAP-AC-Pro, which won't have this issue, but is a bit more expensive. :)
You're building a new house, with a brand new network -- don't cheap out on this part, as it'll only bring you misery in the end (especially if you have a WAF to deal with). :D
As /u/nonades mentioned, /r/homelab is a good place to ask as well.
My setup:
That would be better for sure, add one of these and you'll be good to go. Or save some money and get the lite version.
And then to really get a nice SOHO network going add an Edgerouter to replace that C7
What you need to do is log into your AT&T Residential Gateway (RG) web interface, navigate to the 'Wireless Interface' page and find the 'disable' button.
Below link is a how-to guide for Netgear, but the disable procedure applies to all devices:
https://kb.netgear.com/26747/How-to-disable-WiFi-on-AT-T-U-verse-gateway-and-set-NETGEAR-router-in-AP-mode
Unfortunately your SurfBoard is now only useful to sell on eBay.
With your TP-Link, you can reconfigure it to be in "AP mode", see following link:
https://www.tp-link.com/us/faq-417.html
Basically, to put it in AP mode you give it a static IP address, disable DHCP, then use one of it's LAN ports to connect.
Once you've reconfigured your TP to be an AP, you plug it in (via one of it's LAN ports, NOT its WAN port) to your Uverse RG and it will work as an AP.
Of course if you're not in love with your TP-Link, just buy your favorite Access Point. I used to use only Cisco APs but more recently I use Ubiquiti APs.
Personally am huge fan of Ubiquiti (about $100-175)
https://www.ubnt.com/unifi/unifi-ap-ac-pro/
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-AC-PRO-US/dp/B015PRO512/ref=sr_1_3/136-8799792-5744116?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1527287967&sr=1-3&keywords=ubiquiti+unifi+ap-ac+pro
2 routers is not the solution. You may need something like this.
Unifi AC AP Pro If your house is long, and the signal doesn't reach, put one of these at each end ( or something simialr ).
It kinda depends what's in the walls in your place. 20 feet and drywall should not cause a problem for any router.
unless it's an old house with concrete or wire mesh in the walls, you shouldn't be ok with a router in the middle.
My go to is the ASUS RT-AC68U It's got good signal and enough RAM to deal with all kinds of shit.
This is a great one, though you will need to run controller software somewhere. There is no master/slave stuff with APs, they just each offer a way for wireless clients to connect to the wired network. With Ubiquiti stuff, once you have the controller running, setup is very easy. And if you buy into the whole line (Unifi Security Gateway, and Unifi switch), you can do more advanced stuff like VLAN and guest networks super simple as the controller takes care of all the tricky stuff for you.
Might I suggest a more prosummer solution.
Look at ubiquiti gear. It’s what I run at my home and we deploy there access points and switches at over 200 customers. They are excellent for the price
Gateway/router
Ubiquiti Unifi Security Gateway (USG) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LV8YZLK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_HE45BbH0YVZR8
8 port Poe switch
Ubiquiti UniFi Switch 8 60W (US-8-60W) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MU3WUX1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_hF45BbGNDVBBR
Access point
Ubiquiti Networks Unifi 802.11ac Dual-Radio PRO Access Point (UAP-AC-PRO-US) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PRO512/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XF45BbNXXZSJ2
These products will allow you to make sure your wireless network is on something with the least interference, you can also band steer clients to use the less congested 5ghz band all on the same wireless network. Instead of having to make a separate one 2.4 and 5. Which is what most all in one home devices do.
This will over all be a much more flexible system as well. Find an area that doesn’t have good WiFi coverage. Run a cable and add an AP there, or they can even mesh and do it with out a cable.
Turn off the wireless radio on your router and buy [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-AC-PRO-US/dp/B015PRO512/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1501096252&sr=8-2&keywords=unifi+ac).
I'd place it in the middle of the second floor and it should cover the whole house.
For outside: [here] (https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UAP-AC-M-US-Unifi-Access-Point/dp/B01N9FIELY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501096437&sr=8-1&keywords=unifi+outdoor)
Getting this out of the way. USG and UAP-AC Lite. $190 from Amazon.
Or Edgerouter X and UAP-AC Lite. $130 from Amazon (rock solid reliability, but less user friendly)
You can upgrade to UAP-AC Pro is you have devices that can use its spec's. $169 for the AP from Amazon.
I'm also currently researching APs for my new house. If you need a single AP I would get an UAP-AC-LITE which includes a PoE injector for power. If you need multiple APs like me then a switch with PoE + UAP-AC-PROs is the way I will probably go.
Any brand will work and you could get a cheaper one. They differ in signal quality/range, reliability, speed/features and ease of setup.
How they are linked differs by brand.
You could wire up a couple Ubiquiti UAP-AC-PROs, no hardware controller (it's a free app that can be installed on any computer on the network). That's what I and most of my co-workers use for our houses.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PRO512/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdo_AP1cAbX642Q18
I went with a separate router and access point as they're in different locations, but at the prices you're considering it'd be an option even if both devices are right next to each other.
I have one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015PRO512/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Which connects to one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MU3WUX1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The Switch connect to the FiOS Gateway. I wouldn't mind adding a second (or even 3rd) AP, but money is always an issue. The Switch and the other Gateway interaces have several other devices on it:
The AP has a pass-through which connects to a no-name switch (that I need to replace) that provides connectivity to the entertainment center stuff (AppleTV, TiVo, game consoles, etc.)
I'm pretty minimal by many people's standards. If I move I'd like to switch to using one of Ubiquiti's USG Firewall/routers and a dedicated controller so I can do wireless guest access better.
I'm talking about this one.
I can't seem to find it on ubiquiti's online store though
I got these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015PRO512/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1523857354&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=ubiquiti+access+point&dpPl=1&dpID=31zGaGUPhaL&ref=plSrch
It was overkill and you can probably get away with the cheaper AC Lite version.
Good luck!!!
Are you using your ISP-provided wifi to run AirPlay over?
ISP wifi radios are often really crappy.
I had Airplay dropout problems with my system until I upgraded to a quality wifi access point. One of the best upgrades I've ever done.
Don’t use that netgear garbage. Ubiquiti makes really nice enterprise class network equipment which is super simple to set up and manage. At a minimum, all you need is cat5-e (cat 6 fine too) distributed around the house and a couple access points connected to the hard lines:
Ubiquiti Networks Unifi 802.11ac Dual-Radio PRO Access Point (UAP-AC-PRO-US) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PRO512/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gHiRDbHKHSSRR
(2 access points cover my 2500 sqft house and a third covers my detached garage and back yard)
You can optionally buy a PoE switch (power over Ethernet) to connect to the access points so that the power is transmitted through the network cable and you don’t have to plug them in to a wall outlet. This will work if you choose this route (you will have to configure this switch to turn on PoE on ports connected to access points).
Ubiquiti UniFi Switch 8 60W (US-8-60W) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MU3WUX1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nNiRDbW2HP8HG
Any one of these progressive options is a valid stopping point, but I recommend buying the secure router/gateway and then the cloud key. These allow you to do advanced network management (main + guest Wi-Fi networks, custom qos throttling):
Ubiquiti Unifi Security Gateway (USG) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LV8YZLK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1RiRDbW5SEFNM
Ubiquiti UniFi Cloud Key (UC-CK) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017T2QB22/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vSiRDb8SMX7ZY
The guest network is worth the price of admission for added security. Put all your random wireless devices (i.e. the internet of things) on this network to isolate them from your major devices (PCs and phones). Reason being the IoT devices are frequently hacked and used to access your home network.
Most of your consumer grade wifi equipment can only handle 5 to 10 devices. Need to move up to business class.
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-AC-PRO-US/dp/B015PRO512/ref=sr_1_4?crid=370YLEG5AN1C0&keywords=unifi+ac+pro&qid=1571504356&sprefix=unifi%2Caps%2C152&sr=8-4
I am not familiar with Almond+. But I can tell you about QoS. Basically QoS on most devices (again never used an Almond+) allows you to tell the router who has the highest priority when handling data packets. By default a router will route packets as first in first out.
QoS matters when you have a really congested network and want to make sure that packets from computer/service X get routed first. This is frequently used in VoIP because when the packets are delayed too much the voice can be distorted and cause call quality issues.
As for router I am using a virtualized pfSense system and for my wireless access point I am using a UniFi-AC-PRO that I bought from Amazon.
Edited for grammar
whatever you do, do not buy an extender. they cause more problems than they solve.
With that kind of square footage (how many floors?) I'd say you're better off getting multiple APs. A triband device is nice and all if you're streaming to a bunch of devices in a small area, but getting 2 WAPs will give you the same experience if you stack them on top of each other, and a better one if you separate them. You can get everyone's favorite UAP-AC-Pro for $130, or you can get a TP-Link 3x3 WAP for $70. Of course, these would require a router still, and the ability to run cables.
If you don't have that ability, I would still suggest a mesh system over one of those tri-band routers. It just doesn't make sense to confine all the bands to 1 area when you can spread them out over a larger area for a better experience.
I've got the Unifi AP's too. (this one specifically).
They're freaking awesome. They aren't quite as fast as maybe Netgear's higher end Nighthawks, but in larger homes, it is the ideal setup for adding multiple access points. If you have a smaller apartment, I think you could do about as well with the Nighthawk. (I used to have the 3200 before switching to Ubiquiti Unifi).
That said, Unifi is a bit more 'enterprise'. A novice could probably get one up and running by following directions closely, but it's not the AP I'd tell my dad to go out and buy.
And, noticed this is a month old..... do you have everything up and running decently?
Sure, there are tons of access points ("AP's"). Without knowing the layout of your house it's hard to say exactly what you need. The main thing is to buy one that is 1) reliable, and 2) fast enough. I wouldn't get one that isn't dual band (i.e. supports simultaneous 2.4GHz and 5 GHz networks). Also get one that supports the newer 802.11ac ("AC") standards.
I like the dual band models from Ubiquiti (like this) for their ease of setup and usage.
Also I updated my higher post with some definitions and information that might help.
I also have a charter and recently upgrade my router to https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-AC1750-Router-800MHz-Processor/dp/B00Z0V2NQ8/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1481427290&sr=1-3&keywords=netgear+nighthawk (holds about 32 devices - I test b/c i have about 50) then I bought a access point https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-AC-PRO-US/dp/B015PRO512/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1481427368&sr=1-5&keywords=access+point which now runs the other 40 devices+ then rest is on the router.
I ran into the same issue, I now have 85+ devices on my network with zero problems. Your best bet is to scrap/sell your current network gear and build yourself a solid setup. I recommend the following (get as many switches and APs as needed, I am using 3 APs currently):
Cable Modem: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MA5U1FW
Router: https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Security-Appliance-USG/dp/B00LV8YZLK
APs: https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-AC-PRO-US/dp/B015PRO512
Unmanaged Switches: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSAFE-Gigabit-Desktop-GS108-400NAS/dp/B00MPVR50A
Software: Unifi Controller - this is free - https://www.ubnt.com/enterprise/software/
The best thing to do is separate everything out so you can future proof your setup. What if down the line you want to extend your wifi or need more wired ports? When you separate everything out (security gateway/firewall, switch and wifi access points) its much easier to upgrade and troubleshoot. Your typical consumer grade all in one routers have all three of those things in one package and none of them are particularly great.
Ubiquiti is the current leader at this for the home user. They have SOHO grade equipment (small office home office) which is basically enterprise grade equipment but at consumer grade prices.
If I were you, here's what I'd do:
Ubiquiti Unifi Security Gateway (USG) - this will be the brains of your system and allow port forwarding, QoS, deep packet inspection, etc.
Ubiquiti Networks 8-Port UniFi Switch, Managed PoE+ Gigabit Switch with SFP, 150W (US-8-150W) - this gives you 8 ports, all of which can be enabled for power over ethernet which can easily power your security cameras and access points. If you don't need this then you can get the cheaper non-PoE switch Ubiquiti US-8 Unifi Switch
Ubiquiti Networks Unifi 802.11ac Dual-Radio PRO Access Point (UAP-AC-PRO-US) - This is a great access point to give you fast wifi at a great range. This plugs directly into your switch via ethernet cable. If you need to extend you wifi then you can get a second one and plug it in. These can be powered by PoE which is really nice.
Total cost: $461
I guarantee you would end up spending more upgrading an all in one router over the next few years. This will easily last you 10+ years if not more and be enterprise grade equipment.
For comcast gigabit you'll be needing a DOCSIS 3.1 capable modem such as the Arris SB8200.
For a router, for all in ones you can look at the typical Netgear R7000 or the Asus AC1900 if you want to keep it simple.
If you want something super reliable then...
Edgerouter X
or
Edgerouter Lite
or
Unifi Security Gateway
Ubiquiti AC Lite
or
Ubiquiti AC Pro
(also wire in as many things as possible with quality Cat5e/6/6a cables)
Since I've had their service, my internet has crapped out at least 5 times and I just got their service maybe two months ago, so I went out and bought a new modem (from a list of supported modems on their site):
ARRIS SURFboard SB6190
This has excellent reviews; it's a shame though that they don't support DOCSIS 3.1 yet (heard they are working on it).
The router of choice I went with is: Ubiquiti EdgeRouter X x ER-X-SFP
and then I purchased this Wireless Access Point from Ubiquiti. High reviews, large coverage, and easy to setup/maintain.
All in all, for under $300 I feel good about my purchases and getting rid of this leased modem. I've always used ISP provided equipment, whether it be AT&T or Time Warner/Spectrum and it's been quite the headaches over the years and finally wanted to do something about it.
Not sure if any of this will help you out, but hopefully it does!
This! Sort of...
For one, you will need a cable modem:
Why multiple options and price-points?
In a nutshell, download and upload bonded channels supports how much up and down bandwidth your cable modem would have. 8 (8 download) x4 (4 upload) theoretically supports 340 Mbps download and whatever upload speed. My current 2x2 supports 125+ Mbps download.
Why get something beefier? You will get slightly better performance if each bonded channel isn't operating near it's ceiling. With Comcast, they have 16 and 24 download channels in most markets so that will help with your overall connection. Also having 24 or 32 download channels will help you break through speed barriers if Comcast offers faster connection speeds in the future.
Personal Note: I pay for 100/10 from Comcast and bought the $90 NETEAR CM600-100NAS Cable Model 24x8 Bonded Channels for my new home. While the theoretical download speed from the modem far out paces what I will get from Comcast, the new modem will take full advantage of the 24 bonded download channels in my area.
Then you will need a router. With Ubiquiti, you can really go with one of two router options:
There's a lot of YouTube videos that will explain the differences between each router. The short version is that they use the same hardware and have all of the same features available if enabled over command line but:
Personal Note: I bought the EdgeRouter X because the price point is so good. This thing EASILY out performs my Linksys WRT 1900 AC or any other Linksys, Asus, etc. routers that I have ever owned. With that said, I will never fully leverage all of the controls in the UI and I wish I had gone with the USG as it integrates with the Unifi cloud stuff. I will eventually switch to a Unifi router.
Then you will need an Access Point (AP) to create an access point for your devices:
If you get the EdgeRouter X, get a UAP-AC-Lite. They both operate off of 24v so you can do Cable Modem -> 24v POE power injector (comes with the UAP-AC-Lite) -> EdgeRouter X -> UAP-AC-Lite. This is what I have now.
You can upgrade to the UAP-AC-LR which has the longest range of all of the Ubiquiti APs or the UAP-AC-LR because of it's 3x3 MIMO which gives it a higher input/output than the rest of the Ubiquiti 2x2 MIMO. The latter two devices use 48v POE injectors.
Personal Note: I'm using two UAP-AC-Lites in my current two story home and will transition to four in my new three story home. Even at the cheapest price point, these far out perform the other routers and access points that I have ever owned.
Just installed my first one for a client.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015PRO512/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This thing has more range than anything I have ever setup. Incredible.
I read these are nearly as good for a much smaller tag.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HXT8R2O/ref=psdc_1194486_t3_B015PRO512
If I didn't have a Areohive setup in my house I would pick up Unifi in a heartbeat.
As others and I have already mentioned, these are good:
or these:
I've also used these:
Any of the three are rock solid, they're similar in hardware - mikrotik has 3 radios, ubiquiti has 2 on lite, 3 on pro.
Software on the mikrotik is more of a kitchen sink (I dare you to find a router with more options in the ui). Software on ubiquiti makes it just an AP.
They all work well as APs, Ubiquiti is simpler and more popular with individual home users.
They all ship with power injectors, making them easy to mount on the ceiling or wall.
I think if you're all going to wire your gaming rigs - don't worry about the 3x3 radio, go with uap-ac-lites (their wifi chip gets slightly better thermals over the mikrotik). You need just the box, an ethernet cable, and a phone app, or some kind of laptop to run a controller app for initial setup and upgrades later on.
8 port managed POE switch: https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Managed-Gigabit-US-8-150W/dp/B01DKXT4CI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1497803035&sr=8-2&keywords=ubiquiti+managed+switch
AP (1 every 4 rooms): https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-AC-PRO-US/dp/B015PRO512/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1497803133&sr=1-1&keywords=ubiquiti+access+point
24 port switch to feed APs: https://www.amazon.ca/UBIQUITI-US-24-250W-UNIFI-Switch-24-Managed/dp/B00OJZUQ24/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1497803253&sr=1-2&keywords=ubiquiti+managed+switch
Router: I'm not sure, my company actually orders custom-made little PCs that we run OpenWRT on. I assume Ubiquiti routers would be nice though, judging by my experience with other pieces of their equipment
I have four of these throughout my house, they work great
you cannot go wrong with Ubiquiti
Right, so you're looking at consumer 802.11n hardware. You're also looking like a 2x2 antenna setup at that so your max connection speed will be 150Mbps. With wireless overhead on consumer gear you can expect less than half of whatever your connection speed is for actual throughput. When connected to the wireless range extender you can expect half of the half, so less than 1/4 of your connection speed on actual throughput. Wireless also operates at half duplex, so once you start adding a lot of clients it will get exponentially worse.
If you want to do this yourself, I have a couple of recommendations:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PRO512
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJZUQ24
That will keep your cost under $1k and give you a decent experience. Don't skimp out on this stuff, it will dramatically change your overall experience. Also, run cable to all 3-4 APs back to the switch for max speeds and the most reliable operation. They will also get their power from the switch so you only have to run the network cable to where you need to mount the APs. Put them on the ceiling for the best signal strength.
ps- I do this for a living for a large enterprise nationwide company. If you have a floor plan, PM and I'll help you determine the best location for the APs.
Yay learning!
So the most common internet thing in a normal home is a wireless router. This combines three networking devices:
In your case, what you'll do is run a network connection from the router's ethernet switch to a stand-alone AP. This is basically another point where computers can make the transition from the the wireless "WiFi" to the wired network. You don't need the Router or ethernet switch part of it because your neighbor is handling the internet bit (with the router) and you're only plugging in one thing (the AP). If you want to plug in more than one wired thing, you could put an ethernet switch at your end and plug in things that way, too.
As far as what AP to buy, there are about as many brands and styles as you can imagine. On the cheap end are models like this TP-Link Wireless N for $40 or so. It will work and for a few devices in an area where there isn't a lot of competition it will work okay.
I would suggest spending a bit more. Around $90 will net you a Ubiquiti AP AC Lite which gives you much better data density and a nice easy control and configuration scheme. For $150 the Pro Version gets you a better top speed and ability to more reliably handle more users. Open-Mesh offers a similar series of access points at a similar price point.
Spending more money now gets you a faster, more reliable connection and you can just unplug it and take it with you when you move or your situation changes. Access points don't expire and generally don't break, so it's worth it to throw down a little more money if you can.
Yes, all the major companies sell things marketed as AP's that you can plug into your router. My favorite one to use is Unifi. The biggest issue with that is you need to install controller software to configure it. Not a big deal though. You can also take any consumer router, disable DHCP and it makes it a wireless access point.
Well the good news is it doesn't look like anything super hard to run spec wise (i.e. you aren't transferring large files back and forth, streaming blurays rips, etc).
2.4 vs 5 ghz are the two bands of WIFI. Dual band means it can accept either one. 2.4GHz is more common but devices are increasingly moving towards dual band capable (most modern laptops and streamers including your Fire Stick are dual band). Generally speaking, 2.4 GHz is not as fast (it's not slow either but I believe it maxes at 450 Mbps) but has longer range; it can be more congested as well if you are around others since it has longer range and is more common (both in WIFI devices and other home electronics). 5 GHz can be faster (up to 1300 Mbps for a single AC connection), is less common, and has shorter range; there is less interference due to the less congestion and shorter range. It would be best to use both (devices close to 5GHz use that, devices further away use 2.4ghz).
I mentioned the attic because while wiring your own home is a whole thing, you might be able to run one cable to an AP (Access Point, a WIFI only device) in the middle or most strategic location of the home. As an example, I did this in my parent's home. They had a 3000 SQFT long, single floor rectangular home. I used a Long Range Unifi N AP. It had a POE injector (power and data on one ethernet cable) and just had to run one cable to the middle of the house.
For example, you could install one of these in your living room either closer to the stairs or the eating room depending on where the majority of your devices will be.
Covering the backyard is probably going to be another AP; however, if you have crawl space, you could wire an outdoor AP same as the unifi (in fact, the model I linked is weather resistant).
Access Point. Usually those white things you see in the ceilings (though mine are just sitting on a desk and a shelf).
These are the ones I used.
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-AC-PRO-US/dp/B015PRO512/
Not all-inclusive, still need some physical cables and such, but hopefully this is a starting point:
16-port gig switch: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00GG1AC7I/ Probably overkill but a few more ports doesn't cost all THAT much more and this leaves you plenty of room for expansion. Also managed so can setup VLANs, QoS, whatever.
Router: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00HXT8EKE/ These are solid for home and small business use. Config can be a little tricky if you are using any of the advanced features but plenty of throughput (1 million pps). Also supports VLANs if you want to spin up a guest wifi later.
Wireless AP: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B015PRO512/ This supports multiple SSIDs on different VLANs and offers really solid performance for not a ton of money. From the physical space you listed below I'm thinking one should me more than enough.
Cable modem: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B016PE1X5K/ I know you said this wasn't finalized but thought I would toss it in anyway. Don't skimp here, a low-end modem will really limit throughput and can crash under heavy-load. Whatever you go with make sure it's on your ISPs compatibility list! They may not support it if not.
That should put a total around $512 USD or so JUST FOR HARDWARE. Keep in mind this is a pretty basic setup but should serve as a starting point. You'll still need the physical cabling and someone able to set it all up. As mentioned earlier also this is only MY BEST GUESS as to what you will need. Please don't take this as your bible or anything like that. :)
I know I mentioned it before but I really don't mind helping set things up if needed. I'm not going to be your "call at 3AM tech guy" but if you need a bit here and there I can try to assist. :) Let me know if you have any questions or thoughts on the build. Cheers!
EDIT: Something else to keep in mind that's not really network related is backups. YOU NEED THIS. Even if you go with a cloud service like carbonite or whatever, you need to make sure the PCs have regular backups. You WILL have a hard drive die and need to pull a backup from somewhere.
If you want to stay in the same ecosystem, here’s my recommendation for Ubiquity. You may need more than 1 AP depending on the layout of the house, walls and placement.
Modem: ARRIS SURFboard Gigabit Docsis 3.1 Cable Modem, 10 Gbps Max Speed, Approved for Cox, Spectrum and Xfinity, (SB8200 Frustration Free) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DY16W2Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OdcqDbMF39946
Router: Unifi Security Gateway Pro 4-Port https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019PBEI5W?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Switch for non PoE gear: Ubiquiti US-24 Unifi Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZBLO0U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7fcqDbNRQ3ZRH
Switch for PoE gear: Ubiquiti UniFi Switch 8 60W (US-8-60W) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MU3WUX1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MicqDbTHS34TA
Access Point(s): Ubiquiti Networks Unifi 802.11ac Dual-Radio PRO Access Point (UAP-AC-PRO-US) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PRO512/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YhcqDb6EEP86C
First, don't go by the antenna bars, they aren't 100% accurate. Download a speed test app, and test the speed strength when you're in your room compared to being next to the router.
I can't imagine losing that much signal strength from being down the hall. You can try moving your router closer to the middle part of your place.
Your current router isn't the latest and greatest, but it is dual band, so I would definitely setup the 5ghz network as well. 5ghz is stronger and usually has less traffic on the frequency, but it doesn't do well with distance. If you have newer phones (iPhone 5 and better), they should have an antenna for 5ghz and might improve your speed. You can easily google if your devices are compatible. Most should now be.
If that doesn't work you can look into getting a MoCa or a Powerline adapter. Don't get a wifi extender, those are crap. Also, I wouldn't bother with any new "mesh network".
If you really need to strengthen your wifi signal, it's always the best bet to run an ethernet cable and setup an Access Point (AP). This is usually the least preferred option for most people because they don't want a cable running down their hallway, or don't want to deal with the hassle of running it through the walls.
One fairly simple way to secure your network would be to buy a managed switch like this one and setting up VLANs to separate your network.
In a nutshell, VLANs are a way to partition your switch into different segments or "Broadcast Domains". It's like breaking your switch up into smaller switches that are not connected to each other.
Why would you want to do this?
By virtually separating your LAN, if an attacker somehow gained access to one of your devices (say the Raspberry Pi), they wouldn't be able to access your WD MyCloud or your Camera because they would be on a completely separate LAN.
Based on your network, I would create at least 6 different VLANs. Something like this:
VLAN 2 - Servers (The WD MyClouds and the Dell Tower)
VLAN 3 - Cameras
VLAN 4 - Wireless LAN
VLAN 5 - LAN (Ethernet connected PCs, Laptops, etc.)
VLAN 6 - IoT devices (The thermostat, sprinkler controller, RPis, etc)
VLAN 7 - Guest / Unsecured Wireless
VLAN 8 - Management
The Management VLAN is used to allow access to management functions of your devices like the switch.
How do the different VLANs talk to each other?
For example, how do your PCs talk to your WD MyCloud if they're on a different VLAN? Through the use of a VLAN-Aware Router!
It looks like your WRT1200AC is supported by DD-WRT and OpenWRT. It also appears that it does support VLANs. The stock Linksys firmware will not support VLANs so you would need to flash it with either OpenWRT or DD-WRT in order to use that functionality.
If you don't like the idea of flashing your WRT1200AC I would recommend replacing it with a VLAN-Capable access point like the Ubiquiti Unifi-AC-Pro (which is not bad looking either). You'll also need a VLAN-Capable Router/Firewall. You can use any Linux box with a decent Gigabit Ethernet NIC (e.g. Intel) for this task, or you can go with a purpose-built router like the Mikrotik RouterBoard hEX which has been tested to route at nearly gigabit speed.
This is a lot of info to process, if you have questions I would be happy to help! :)
The access point is this connected to my home server which I don't know a ton about other than that it runs PF sense.
It's a wireless ac access point and my surface book has a wireless ac card, though I can't seem to get it to work. I don't think Wireless N should be what is bottlenecking my speed though right?
switch
WAP
with this statement: "Features auto-sensing 802.3af/802.3at PoE support and can be powered by any of the following: Ubiquiti Networks UniFi Switch 802.3af/802.3at PoE+ compliant switch Ubiquiti Networks Gigabit PoE Adapter (48V, 0.5A)"
I can test it out tomorrow to see whether or not the switch will provide power to the WAP. Maybe it'll work, and I was just getting caught up in the details. Thanks again!
First off, never use an extender. You're right, it's a pain to switch networks and they just suck overall.
Your #1 option is to install access points that connect via Ethernet to a switch. This is my (preferred model)[https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015PRO512/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B015PRO512&linkCode=as2&tag=dmtcs-20&linkId=5ea1dbeb7c3154924cda96968684d9b2]. These will be extremely reliable and seem less after installation. They also offer the best coverage and throughout.
Mesh is acceptable (and getting better), but still not as good as dedicated APs. If your house is 6k square feet, take the investment of time and money and get some outstanding APs in there.
You mean a wireless access point, get this.
If you actually need a router, the thing that assigns IP addresses and does port forwarding, get the edge router x. It's 50 bucks and the best for the money.
That's a decent model, the link you sent me is a 3 pack of 802.11n wifi access points. Which will give you a large coverage area, but I'm using this one which supports 802.11ac.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015PRO512/ref=psdcmw_1194486_t1_B005EORRBW
If you want to do mesh networks they also just release some cool AP's that do that too. I think I'm going to pick this one up to improve wifi coverage in our master bath. Which is probably not necessary since our sonos in there never drops out.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N9FIELY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499138482&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=uap+m&dpPl=1&dpID=312mdI78PJL&ref=plSrch
I've got NextLight and here's what I use.
From NextLight, go into a Ubiquiti EdgeRouter Lite, from that into a switch.
In the switch it all my wired devices, laptop, desktop, Roku, and a Ubiquiti UAP-AC-PRO for WiFi.
It all works great, very fast and my devices are the bottleneck, not my network.
It's not as simple and compact as an all in one wifi router job. But those are a jack of all types, master of none. The Ubiquiti router, switch and AP combo is far superior for performance and reliability.
what is the current Combo you have? If you purchased one of the low priced combos (C3000, C3700, you will see problem as they are really good for large houses)
dont spend money for warranty.
Always prefer separates. reasons below:
http://pickmymodem.com/cable-modem-wi-fi-modem-router-combo-one-buy/
for modems, pretty much SB6183 or CM600 are fine. if you prefer Arris, go for 6183.
http://amzn.to/2q0wYG6 - 6183
http://amzn.to/2qtNyxZ - CM600
for Routers, few options:
http://amzn.to/2q0ykk0
http://amzn.to/2pzu4q4
http://amzn.to/2q0NUMq - Orbi (this is from Netgear and you may not prefer it but this gives hell of WIFI performance)
http://amzn.to/2pzsyUW - google mesh
http://amzn.to/2pzBgTe - Edgerouter lite
http://amzn.to/2pJHsIG - ubiquiti AP
Let me know if you have other questions.
If I do get the Ubiquiti Access Points, what would I need to buy aside from the APS? I'm assuming I have to get one or two of this, what else would I need?
Thank you both for the quick and helpful responses. I guess I'll give the Ubiquiti devices a shot. Is the AC Pro worth the extra money over the AC Lite? Also, could you confirm that these are the correct models? Amazon seems to have multiple of each line:
A couple additional questions about these:
Thanks Shane for this excellent work.
YTD growth is 67%
Good to know about their R&D and CEOs 67% share. I happened to buy their product access point based on amazon review.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015PRO512
The product works very nicely, no issue. If they continue to maintain the quality, there is an upside on sales. This is their consumer product, but not enterprise product.
Based on this details, looks to me worth for long term holding.
K I bought the Unifi AC Pro
As for the threats I honestly don't have many. I live in a super safe area and just figure with what I am doing and the amount of crypto I deal with I might as well just be safe and protect myself ya know?
That being said I think the biggest things that might happen are exactly what you said. I have a bunch of IT/Dev neighbors and I guess if they really felt like it at this point they could access my network and possibly try and steal info on my computers that are connected/up and running 24/7.
They don't take hardly any bandwidth however they do need to have low latency.
Mind helping me out?
My household is wireless only as the Ethernet's connection is downstairs in a spare bedroom and the house isn't hard wired. So we've been using CenturyLink's modem and their router. We also tried a different router as well. Lately our 1gb internet has been in and out with our many devices. The tv and our phones might have internet access, but our desktops or tablets won't. Maybe check back an hour later and they might switch, or they both might work. We've restarted router/modem, and have had CenturyLink replace the modem.
Tempted to purchase our own higher end router and test the network and see if it would be a solution to our internet pains here. I'm not too experienced with access points, but from basic Googling it sounds like my setup could be CenturyLinks modem -> Ubiquiti Unifi -> Wireless signal for household devices. Correct? I was reading up the basic differences between an access point and a wireless router. Would this Unifi product simply replace a wireless router and be better than normal consumer grade products? I really just want to know if the device I linked below is a good buy and would replace a Wireless Router that supports gigabyte internet.
Here is the Unifi device I found on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-AC-PRO-US/dp/B015PRO512/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
Any help would be greatly appreciated. My parent's house I believe has an Asus AC5300 which works awesome and fixed the Netflix buffering constantly while I was gaming on my computer. I'm just looking for a faster wireless device that doesn't belong to CenturyLink to see if its their shitty equipment causing the issue. Plus it doesn't hurt to purchase an even better device than theirs and run with it.
Run the cable and then get a decent wifi access point, like this one.
Ideally get 2 of them and turn the crappy wifi off on your existing router. That way you can have a mesh wifi network that will properly hand off between access points.
If I planned on driving cams, I'd probably go with the bridge between the two buildings.
Two Nanobeams and two AP-AC-PROs would fit the bill and can be had for ~$450 on amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-NanoBeam-High-Performance-airMAX-NBE-5AC-Gen2-US/dp/B0713XMHH9/
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-AC-PRO-US/dp/B015PRO512
Alternatively, what's between the two buildings? Could you run basic PVC conduit and drop Cat6e between the two?
Thanks, referencing This?
What's your internet speeds? 800sq ft isn't much and the AC Lite should be able to cover it.
If it were me though and I had an open budget I'd go with an EdgeRouter Lite and a UniFi AP AC Pro. That going to give you the best performance for your money. And the best range.
[Ubiquiti Edgerouter Lite ERLITE-3 Desktop Router (Black)] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HXT8EKE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_052iybDFTHP07)
[Ubiquiti Networks Unifi 802.11ac Dual-Radio PRO Access Point] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PRO512/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_q92iyb43WMX90)
Quick question, you seem like a knowledgeable person, why is this access point says US version at the end? does that mean it doesn't work outside the US ?
Thanks for the information! Appreciate it.
As for the router, is there any Cisco ASAs that can do gigabit for under 350$ or so (same price point of Edge Router 8 Pro)? I didn't even bother to look since I know Juniper, Cisco stuff is SO expensive.
As for the Edge Router equipment switching issue, I do remember reading that they do not have any type of hardware switching and it has to revert back to Software. For my use case, I'm not worried about that as I only need it for routing. I am going to be getting a GigE switch of some sort (ProCurve 2800 24 looks pretty decent) to deal with switching on LAN side.
Wasn't aware of the PoE issue with the Ubiquiti AP. I'll have to check into that. The Ubiquiti APs I was looking at were these: Ubiquiti Networks Unifi 802.11ac Dual-Radio PRO Access Point (UAP-AC-PRO-US) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PRO512/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4ihlybHTBGT1W
The specs on them show 802.11 AC which would mean they would have to have 1Gbps networks.
The cisco switch you mentioned I was looking into last night actually (when i ran across the ProCurve). That switch looked extremely good from a review stand point, but unfortunately it only has 10/100Mbps support, no GigE. I am wanting to keep everything at a minimum to GigE so that switch would be a no go for me.
Interesting about the CPUs pulling same power at idle, but makes sense. I was actually started looking at the Supermicro x9 stuff. Seems I can get a lot more bang for my buck. Only things I'm majorly concerned with is how quiet those systems are (or the lack of how quiet they are). It seems to be a LOT cheaper than the Dell 720/620 stuff.
If I can get a e5 series system for < 650 or so, I would be happy.
Thanks again for all the information/feedback.
Get yourself one of these bad boys and some duct tape. Now your also gonna want t long Ethernet cable dependent on the size of your house. Next make sure you get a POE access point such as this Unifi device. Now I think you know where I'm going with this, and you will NEED to up your macgyver skills. This has the added benefit of making sure the vacuum will always have a good wireless signal.
Thank you! This is the kind of support I needed. Nobody goes out and buys 25 different devices lol, they accumulate over time, so I thought this might be something contributing to the issue.
I'm an absolute idiot with this stuff though, so I just want to make sure I'm understanding your recommendation. ELI5...
First off, you think I should buy two or three UniFi AP AC Pro units. Then, remove the Netgear AC1750 and the Netgear extender. Plug one UniFi AP AC Pro unit into the cable outlet in the house, then run an ethernet cable from that UniFi AP AC Pro unit through the back yard and into the office, where it will connect with the second UniFi AP AC Pro unit. Correct?
Thanks so much!
Ubiquity Unifi AP pro wifi
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https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-AC-PRO-US/dp/B015PRO512
Thank you for the help. Unfortunately, our budget at the moment only allows for one or the other. I'm wondering if the Archer C7 is maybe our best bet? Or, would we still be ok with just the Unifi? Maybe it is best if I show you what I'm looking at. Considering we have 150 mbps speed, which of these is my best option?
This Unifi, which has multiple models and I don't know which one I should go for
This Archer C7 router and modem bundle, which I think is what you're talking about
Or should I combine this modem with this wifi router?
Or, if I'm completely missing the point, should I combine this modem with this Unifi? The Unifi is kind of pricey, so I'm wondering if this cheaper model will handle my speed just fine. At most, we have 1 computer gaming, 1 Amazon Fire-Stick streaming, and 2 phones connected to WiFi.
I know some of this doesn't line up with what you're saying, but I'm trying to incorporate what I'm learning with what my budget is :/
Ubiquity 802.11ac Long Range Access Point easily covers 50x24 feet of office space which costs ~ $80 costing ~ $130
I got the above one for Office use and Home use but budget was not constraint I would use the 802.11ac PRO Access Point
Are people liking e.g. https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-AC-PRO-US/dp/B015PRO512/ ?
So a Ubiquiti setup would need 1 router + 1 AP? Like this:
Router:
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Security-Appliance-USG/dp/B00LV8YZLK/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8
and
AP:
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-AC-PRO-US/dp/B015PRO512/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
No, Ruckus is not less than $500 per AP. Unifi is around $100 for the AP, an entire solution would cost you less than $300. I'd still argue that you'd have a hard time proving Ruckuss' value outside of the enterprise. How does it blow them out of the water anyway, what metrics?
https://www.amazon.com/Ruckus-ZoneFlex-802-11ac-Indoor-802-3af/dp/B00MV93Q2M
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-AC-PRO-US/dp/B015PRO512/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520258812&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=unifi+ac+pro
We've had good luck with the G-Rack. From $17k to $37k for 48-144TB. It's pretty flexible as far as connections go. Make sure the server hits your switch over 10gig, preferably using an LACP bond. Your designers could hit it via gigabit. Laptop folks should be encouraged to use copper, but if you have good wifi they'll have enough connectivity for meeting rooms. Video clients should be connected over 10gig ethernet, but if you don't have the money to pull Cat6a wires everywhere NBaseT can get you 2.5Gbps or 5Gbps over existing Cat5e or Cat6 wires.
Edit: Just don't overlook backup. Amazon S3 or Backblaze B2 are great cloud solutions.
Don't get the lite, If you are already in a shouting match, get the pro version.
Also, you technically don't need a controller installed and running to use it. You need that for logging and advanced features, I think including stuff like smart channel selection, but if that controller is down for whatever reason, they continue to serve up wireless. You will want one running.
So this and 2 of these and I'll be golden? I just have a ton of shit in the house and now my wife wants a TV in the kitchen.. I think the microwave is like a faraday cage or something because the kitchen wifi is basically garbage
Well these are business class devices that are priced so that residential users can also take advantage of them. Ubiquity has a huge following and there's a lot of support and documentation out there along with Youtube vids that could probably walk you through the whole process.
The devices connect to a controller. You can run the controller on a windows PC, Linux, or Mac. You can also purchase a hardware controller but it's not necessary.
You would then configure the AP and the Gateway from the same controller (basically a GUI web interface).
It might seem challenging and more than what you would run into with a standard home setup but their APs will blow Google mesh wifi out of the water.
Here's the AP I would recommend: https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-AC-PRO-US/dp/B015PRO512/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ubiquity+ac+pro&amp;qid=1555956856&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3
Note: you will need to power the device over ethernet. A POE switch or I believe when you purchase a single AP it comes with a power injector but you want to make sure.
Absolutely not! To understand why, I need you to exterminate from your head the idea that a router provides WiFi. Within the realm of real networking, a router merely routes data between your local network and the internet. Instead, WiFi is generated by access points which you plug into that Ethernet port in the room on the other side of the house.
Generally, your network stack will look something like this.
Internet ---Fiber--> Modem ---Cat 6 ---> router --Cat 6--> switch --Cat 6 (in walls)--> Access Point --WiFi --> Phone.
Also check this.
AP pro
Never had issues like you describe in any UniFi deployment I've ever done. I'd suggest calling them to get it replaced. Something is definitely wrong there.
Just read the reviews, your experience is most definitely atypical.
Have you performed a wireless site survey? How congested are the frequencies that you are using to communicate with your router? Although your router looks decent, personally I would try a Ubiquiti Unifi access point and see if your performance improves. Ubiquiti access points are highly-rated, amazingly fast, reliable, and a breeze to configure:
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-AC-PRO-US/dp/B015PRO512/
When I installed it in my uncle's house I did do it myself. It was expensive.
Total: $414
You're right about the tools but once you get Cat6 wired up in your house when would you need to do it again? I don't think Cat6 is going away anytime soon.
I don't have gigabit since its not available in my area.
But this is probably good in your budget.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PRO512/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_K.vwzbRZ8MV7C
Remember this is an access point not a router. So you still need a router to use. You can buy a router to use with this for like $50. But i use the fios router as a router.
Ubiquiti.
It's not just a WiFi router, it's an AP that will connect to a Switch and has a hardware Security Gateway protecting the whole network.
If you want some quality equipment, Ubiquiti is pretty nice. Online Management, Stats and graphs and loads of functionality.
So if I get the following:
Ubiquiti Unifi Security Gateway (USG) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LV8YZLK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_G.-6CbQKR05PA
Ubiquiti UniFi Switch 8 60W (US-8-60W) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MU3WUX1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oe.6CbNHHGH30
Ubiquiti Networks Unifi 802.11ac Dual-Radio PRO Access Point (UAP-AC-PRO-US) x2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PRO512/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_We.6Cb27RWQ13
This should be sufficient, or am I missing something?
As someone who isn't network savy, is this relatively plug and play? I can mount the access points on the ceiling and plug into the cat 6 cables. The router would then plug into my modem in the smart panel, and be connected to the switch and my 4 Ethernet lines? (2 to the access points, 1 to living room and 1 to the den/office)
You can get a nice Ubiquiti AP for less than an extra r7800.
Also keep in mind you want a router that can separate networks so you're not processing credit cards on a network that employees or guests can access.
The qotom server only starts at $180 for the 2016 version.
The HP Procurve is only found used at $100.
The Ubiquiti Unifi is $130 apiece, and there are 3 of them.
I'm not a maths expert but I think it may end up slightly above $130. But then again, I didn't go to UCLA.
Are you using wifi to test the speed? If so, try connecting a computer with an ethernet cable (any type will do, if it was bought in the last 20 years). Make sure all other devices are off, or at least not using data. To test, use speedtest.net. It will automatically choose the best server and measure your speeds. If your speeds are still slow, it is your ISP's fault. Contact them and figure it out with them.
If your speeds are fine with ethernet, then it's a wifi issue. Your current router can handle 60 Mb of network traffic, just not through wifi. It could also be metal pipes in your walls creating a Faraday cage. In either case, you should buy a Ubiquiti access point. This is the cheapest option, this one is more powerful, and this is designed for use in large buildings or spaces. They are probably some of the best access points you can get but might take a little setup.
Did some research, drank some Ubiquiti koolaid and this is what I'm looking at now
1: Netgear Modem - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I5TJGSE/
2: Ubiquiti Security Gateway - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LV8YZLK/
3: Ubiquiti Wireless AP - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PRO512/
4: Ubiquiti Cloud Key - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017T2QB22 (sure Rasp Pi but by the time buying everything and configuring it I don’t mind forking over the extra $30)
Leave the un-managed switches as is for now.
As a previous poster stated, asking people that live around you will give you an idea of the speed you'll receive from CL. I live off of 84th and Q and tried CL and ended up switching to Cox for various reasons:
I would never recommend CL to even my worst enemies. If you're upset with Cox, I would recommend cancelling your service then reactivating it under one of their deals at the time. Also, buy your own modem and router and don't go with what they give you, you'll notice a hell of a difference and it makes the process of cancelling and re-subscribing much easier. If you want a recommendation for equipment, I suggest a Ubiquiti router that suits your needs, but I would recommend the Unifi AP-AC Pro as it is what I use. For the modem, I would recommend a 16x4 modem if you have around 2-3 people living in the household or a 32x8 modem if you want to go all out. The only reason the channel count matters is if you have a high-bandwidth plan or if you have many, many devices simultaneously connected.
If you have any questions about anything I posted, let me know!
Tl;dr - Centurylink is garbage unless you can get the gigabit plan. If you can, get CL. If you can't, stay with Cox.
I don't have hands on with a wide selection of routers but I've heard these are the way to go: https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-AC-PRO-US/dp/B015PRO512?tag=pickmyrouter-20
If you can spread a couple of these around in your house, you'd have 3 total wireless signals to utilize.
If there will be alot of streaming happening on the same wireless AP, a tri-band router/ap may be the way to go but they're pricey. see: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC3200-Tri-Band-Gigabit/dp/B00KWHMR6G?tag=pickmyrouter-20
If it were me, I'd pick up 1 of the ubiquiti APs, and see how it goes. If there is too much congestion you can always pick up another one.
Basically I would need both of these right ?
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeRouter-Advanced-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00YFJT29C/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499726691&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=Ubiquiti+edgerouter+x
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-AC-PRO-US/dp/B015PRO512/ref=pd_bxgy_147_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B015PRO512&amp;pd_rd_r=HDNSZAWA99GZHF55TK0A&amp;pd_rd_w=kPnqD&amp;pd_rd_wg=CbfzB&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=HDNSZAWA99GZHF55TK0A
I have to set up the antenna in the ceiling ?
Wire in every device that can be wired from a primary 24/48 port switch, and I'd recommend atleast 2 Ethernet ports in every bedroom and entertainment room.
I would stay away from TP-Link and look at Ubiquiti APs. Also stay away from repeaters and mesh solutions. Anything that can be hard wired should. Any reason you don't want ceiling mounted APs?
edit:
APs: https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-AC-PRO-US/dp/B015PRO512/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492968358&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=unifi+ac+ap+pro
Switch: https://www.amazon.com/ZyXEL-48-Port-Ethernet-Rackmount-GS1900-48HP/dp/B00N4W9R1E/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492968715&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=48+port+switch+poe
(if price is an issue you can get something used for cheaper.)
Patch Panel: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Rackmount-Wallmount-48-Port/dp/B0072K1P8C/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492968015&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=cat+6+patch+panel
At this point, I wouldn't bother with Cat5e anymore.
OK. I see on the TP-Link page you sent an illustration that helped clear things up for me.
One unit plugged in next to the router, connected by an Ethnernet cable.
One unit plugged in next to where I want better wifi, connected to "any device" with an Ethernet cable.
Now... what would that "any device" be? Is that the AP? I'm guessing AP means access point. OK! Is that one of these things, Ubiquiti Networks Unifi 802.11ac Dual-Radio PRO Access Point (UAP-AC-PRO-US)?
Thanks for the answer.
Do you mean this one?: https://www.amazon.com.mx/Ubiquiti-Networks-UAP-AC-PRO-acceso-blanco/dp/B015PRO512/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1494957073&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ubiquiti+AC+pro
Would I also need the Edgerouter X?
Edit: Also check out this.
Ubiquiti Access Point sounds exactly what you are looking for - but it is not below $60. Honestly, you wouldn't want an AP that low priced anyways, unless you want to reboot it twice a week. This one is rock solid, and you will be very happy with its performance.
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-AC-PRO-US/dp/B015PRO512/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495835772&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ubiquiti+access+point
You could also go N instead of AC, or get the lite one (which is just a bit over $70) if you want to go a bit cheaper.
is this a good access point https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-AC-PRO-US/dp/B015PRO512?ref_=ast_bbp_dp ?
If you're going to be trying to consume 2160p content, hardwire everything you can. Get an ethernet cable to that TV and to everything else that doesn't move.
The Nighthawk is a decent unit, but the thing you have now is a fine router. Get a Ubiquiti Unifi AC-Pro, and just turn off the N900's wireless.
Thank you for the suggestion. There appears to be multiple models. Looking at the comparison on https://www.ubnt.com/unifi/unifi-ap-ac-lite/ , I think I would be fine with the lite version for under $100.
However, it sounds like Unifi requires a LAN cable and cannot be bridged over WiFi, is that correct? I'd rather not run an ethernet cable throughout the apartment for the AP.
$171.99 Ubiquiti Networks Unifi 802.11ac Dual-Radio PRO Access Point (UAP-AC-PRO-US)
$127.00 Ubiquiti Networks UAP-AC-PRO-E Access Point Single Unit NEW (No PoE Included In Box)
$81.77 Ubiquiti Unifi Ap-AC Lite - Wireless Access Point - 802.11 B/A/G/n/AC (UAPACLITEUS)
Check out the Unifi
I always recommend the Ubiquiti AC Pro. They are a little on the pricey side, but they are pretty much the indisputable leader in the enthusiast home sector.
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-AC-PRO-US/dp/B015PRO512
Also, this video guide has a pretty good overview of what you can expect and how simple the setup is.
https://youtu.be/470VUMjsC8g
The UAP-AC-PRO-US would be close to the 2702 and is 1/3rd the price. It's 3x3 mimo, but I've yet to see a real-world situation where the clients could do 3x4 or 4x4
Controller is free. Really nice too if you're using the Unifi line of switches as you get central visibility for both wired and wireless clients.
I use cat6 cables.
this is the ap i own.
Buy one of these and never worry about WiFi connectivity again. Power line is terrible don't use it. Best option is to use direct ethernet cord but if you can't use wifi.
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-AC-PRO-US/dp/B015PRO512/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510088168&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=unifi+ac+pro&amp;dpID=31zGaGUPhaL&amp;preST=_SX300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
Sorry to highjack the conversation here but am in the process of following your recommendations here but not sure if I am missing something. I plan on getting the following:
Question - Is there anything I am missing?
In the event I take the Ubiquity route I just wanted to make sure I knew what I was jumping into. So as I see it I just require the following pieces:
USG
Switch
AP
Then download the controller and i'm good to go I think with a little bit of wiring and mounting.
By gig blast I assume you mean fiber maybe? Here is the fiber version of the router. Ubiquiti Edgerouter X SFP - Router - Desktop - Black (ER-X-SFP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012X45WH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-C7sDbRNTZ9DC
Access points: Ubiquiti Networks Unifi 802.11ac Dual-Radio PRO Access Point (UAP-AC-PRO-US) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PRO512/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_eE7sDbCT7FFQT
The access points will act purely as a bridge from wireless to wired (aka not a router, just wifi) with your home's size I'd recommend probably 3 or possibly 4 of them depending on how well you want the wifi to reach. This type of wifi will be mesh meaning you'll only have one ssid and your phone will connect to whichever AP is closer automatically. (Youd need to download a controller software to a PC)
Again, this is just the most optimal setup and required a little bit knowledge of the devices and general networking to setup.
If you're strictly looking for good but plug and play this would be the best route: AmpliFi HD WiFi System by Ubiquiti Labs, Seamless Whole Home Wireless Internet Coverage, HD WiFi Router, 2 Mesh Points, 4 Gigabit Ethernet, 1 WAN Port, Ethernet Cable, Replaces Router & WiFi Extenders https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L9O08PW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oH7sDbKR37G0G
Hope this helps clear things up!
I'd confirm what /u/braiiam says - do a survey first, one AP may be enough. AP ACP Pro works more than fine for me in a 2000 sq ft office with a lot of metal studs, lowest signal level I see is about -71 dBm at far ends.
One bit that may save you some money: UAP-AC-PRO-US singles (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PRO512) come with a PoE injector, while what that page refers as "newer item" (UAP-AC-PRO-E-US, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079DSW6XX) doesn't even though it's more expensive.
One more bit - get yourself WiFiman if you have an Android device: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.ubnt.usurvey - you can use it even if you don't have any Ubiquiti equipment on the network yet, say, to map your current signal levels.
Oh yeah, powerline sucks. I looked into it, and noped right out.
Look into these Ubiquiti wireless devices. I have never had such good performance. Just hands down will blow you away. The range is incredible - I can get signal a half a block away from home. They have some that have seamless hand-offs between APs. I used to have a central router and then two extended APs which (short story) sucked.
Now I have ONE Ubiquiti AP and it covers all 4 stories of my house.
I am running a Win 2016 Server with shares, client backups, and file history backups.
Then I have a Plex media server streaming to 3 RasPlex (Raspberry Pi's) and two PS4's and a PS3. I also have a Blue Iris camera system with twelve 2K wifi cameras. Then I have the usual 4 laptops, two desktops, two phones, and a tablet. I also have a wifi garage system, VOIP phone line, wireless printers, and some other crap.
BTW, get a cloud-based backup. I got a Crashplan Small Business account and back up my server. It, of course, backs up all my clients, and it's CHEAP, easy, and secure.
Hope this helps!
Sorry - networking noob here. Apologies in advance, and thanks for any clarification you are willing to offer.
What is an erlite? Is it this? https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeRouter-Advanced-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00YFJT29C/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1519246604&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=erlite
Also - Unifi AC Pro - you mean this?
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-AC-PRO-US/dp/B015PRO512/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1519246663&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=unifi+ac+pro
Again - thank you :D
As far as cheap stuff (see: residential) goes, Ubiquiti is pretty good. This might be overkill but this one has a second ethernet port that would function the way you want. Also looks like it comes with a PoE module.
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-AC-PRO-US/dp/B015PRO512/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484673176&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=ubiquiti&amp;refinements=p_72%3A1248879011
You might be able to save $30+ by going with a Netgear (they make access points as well) but my general philosophy is to buy good stuff off the bat and not have to worry later.
I have this: https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Pro-UAPACPRO5US/dp/B015PRO512?th=1
For routing I am planning to get this:
http://www.balticnetworks.com/mikrotik-routerboard-rb3011-complete-with-usb-3-0-port-1u-rackmount-power-supply-lcd-display-fiber-enabled.html
Get a Unifi AC Pro and a cat5e cable intended for burial:
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-AC-PRO-US/dp/B015PRO512
https://www.amazon.com/Outdoor-Waterproof-Shielded-Ethernet-Direct/dp/B001B6DX88?th=1
Put the included PoE injector in your house, the Unifi AC Pro in the barn and connect them with the cable. Standard cabling can be used to connect the PoE injector to the LAN.
I am assuming that the barn is not a conditioned space, which is why I am suggesting the Unifi AC Pro, which is rated for outdoor use.
It is also possible to use fiber, but the copper cable can carry both power and data while the run is below the 100 meter limit dictated by standards (although going higher is possible).
If you need wired access, you can either use a non-managed 8-port switch (under $30) or pony up for Ubiquiti's managed POE switches. My recommendation is to stick with the UniFi line of products if you do end up getting another switch. They are insanely easy to configure and setup and provide you with the best of management, features, throughput, configuration, stability, uptime, etc.
This product line works together very seamlessly and gives you great control over the network, how its used, by whom, and so on.
Good luck.
I'm guessing you want to install APs with wiring due to ceiling/wall mounting? If so, I would suggest buying your own Ubiquity APs (from their new line, which worked perfectly for me) and giving installer the mounting brackets when he is doing the wiring - it will be the cheapest option.
If your speeds over ethernet are much faster than wireless, I'd turn off the radios on your wireless router and connect an access point that's not a shitty consumer one. Your N300 can probably handle routing fine, but these all in one boxes aren't the best. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-AC-PRO-US/dp/B015PRO512/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499382733&amp;sr=8-1
Also, a corner is the worst place you could place an AP. Ideally, it should be on the ceiling in the center of the room.
Access point 140.35$ each, less in bulk, * 31 = 4350.85$ (3863,35$ using bulk discount).
Controller: correct me if I am wrong but I don't think there is one needed, or at least I couldn't find it on the Ubiquiti website. And if it is needed certainly it's not going to cost 35k$.
What are your toughts on that?
I'm currently studying networking among other things at school and my (educated but without much experience) opinion is that Cisco stuff is waaaay overpriced (pfSense is free and is very good imo), and lacks in the gui departement. Yes, console access is also a requirement, but if a product lacks a nice gui for me it's a show stopper, for me products have to work good but also be good to work with.