Reddit reviews Ultimate Compound

You can buy everything online, though it's easier to go to a harbor freight with a coupon if you have one. There are plenty of polishers you can buy online of course, but none are as cheap (at least with decent quality) as the harbor freight model. You can of course buy a much better polisher at your local lowes / home depot however unless you have a lot more use for it it's probably not worth it over the harbor freight one (a good polisher will cost you $200+). Everything else you can find at any auto parts store, or maybe even walmart.

Here's some links

• Polisher - http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-variable-speed-dual-action-polisher-69924.html (no matter what you want a dual action polisher, as other kinds require more skill to avoid damaging your paint)
  
• Cutting pad - http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-compoundcutting-foam-pad-60311.html
  
• Polishing pad - http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-polishing-foam-pad-60309.html
  
• Ultimate compound - http://smile.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM?sa-no-redirect=1 (you can skip if your paint isn't bad, no bad swirl marks or scratches)
  
• Ultimate polish - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HCOE8Q/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687402&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B001O7PNNM&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1P9X3VP7TVA943BYC6C7
  
• Sanding block - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IQYZ8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (if you're going to use touch up paint)
  
• Microfiber rags - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ANZHG7C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Wax applicator pads - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051MYL8E/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_T1
  
• Duragloss - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002W0ZNIU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Color matched touch up paint (if needed) - http://www.automotivetouchup.com/
  
• Detail clay - http://smile.amazon.com/Simoniz-S57-Perfect-Finish-Detailing/dp/B0081OSRQQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1414207600&sr=1-2&keywords=clay+bar
  
• Foam applicator pads - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IQZPW/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_T1
  
  Basic steps:
  
  

1. Start with touch ups if needed. Apply touchup paint to chips with a toothpick, in small amounts. Let it dry and do another one, build it up until it's above the level of the surrounding paint (may take many coats). Let it dry at least several days and make sure it hasn't sunk in. After it's dried for several days, use some water and the sanding block to gently sand them down flush with the rest of the paint. It will look bad, don't worry. Give the paint a few weeks to cure before moving on.
   
2. Wash the whole car with dawn dish soap and let it dry. Mix up some dish soap (maybe 1 tablespoon) with water in a spray bottle. Spray a section with the soapy water and then rub it down with the clay. This is a very mild abrasive which will remove contaminates, tar, bugs, etc and give you smooth clean paint. Wash car after.
   
3. Use the rubbing compound with the cutting pad everywhere you can. Don't try to get into tight areas or spots where you can't put the pad flush, because you'll shred the foam pad. Do the tough spots by hand with foam pads. Wash the car to remove any residue.
   
4. Repeat with the polish pad and polish, same technique as with cutting.
   
5. Apply the duragloss to a clean car by hand with the cloth applicators. Use sparingly, then wipe off with microfiber rags.
   
   You are done! In most environments the duragloss will last 6+ months. If you keep your car protected with it, you won't need to do the cutting/polishing again (or at least, not for a while).
   
   The trickiest part of the whole process is the compounding and polishing. Here are some helpful videos.
   
   

• How to use a dual action polisher - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xrse_DBaUbc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5MYqiBLIU9c
  
• How to touch up paint - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=15T08rfuTSg
  
• How to clay your car - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fqW1nzgyMNA
  
  And that's about it! It's easier if you don't do touch ups, but I figure if I'm going to put this much work in it, might as well get them. And if you do it right (with careful application and then sanding) the touch ups look nearly flawless (most look terrible because people don't bother to sand them flush).
  
  edit: two other tips...
  
  

1. If you have black rubber trim, say around the windows, mirrors, door handles, etc you either need to keep the polisher away from it or put masking tape on top of it. The rubbing compound and polisher will scuff up softer materials like rubber and it will look bad.
   
2. When working with the polisher, always turn it off while still on the surface of the car (preferably still moving it) and let it slow down before lifting it off. If you life the polisher off at full speed it might send the polishing pad flying (it's held on with sturdy velcro). When this happens the velcro is basically shot and you're going to need to get a new pad. If you make sure you always turn it off while still in contact with the car, and you don't try to put it on any sharp corners or narrow areas where you can't get good flat pressure across the whole pad, you should be able to do the entire car with a single pad.

certainly.

1. wash bike from to to bottom, after that use a clay bar on the paint! cant stress that enough. It removes all the embedded contaminants that the wash doesn't remove.https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Smooth-Surface-Clay-Kit/dp/B00063X7KG
   
   
2. grab your buffing wheel (witch I used) or apply by hand some compound this is what I used https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM?th=1 use medium pressure with this, its super easy to put on and off. Just follow the instructions.
   
   
3. after your done compounding the paint apply a polish, let it dry to a haze and wipe off. I used something like this https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-GAP-106-16-Polish-Sealant/dp/B004LPAP2I/ref=sr_1_10?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1486936548&sr=1-10&keywords=car+polish
   
   
4. and final step, apply your wax to protect all your hard work, same application as the polish https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Ultimate-Liquid-Wax-oz/dp/B004HCM9H4/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1486936678&sr=1-4&keywords=car+wax
   
   
5. also clay bar your wheels if they have a clear coat on them then apply a wax, don't get too crazy on them, but get the protection on so they stay shiny
   
   
6. in between washings/ waxings use a quick detail spray
   
   also see r/AutoDetailing for the noob questions/ info. Its a huge help. so is Youtube! hope that points you in the right direction!
   

Here are a couple videos that'll help with the use of products.

clay bar

everything clay bar, compound, and polish

As for the products I use/like I personally like the Meguiar's Ultimate compound and polish. However there are a ton of other options that do as well/or better. For clay I use a range of products, but for your use I would say Chemical Guys clay bar kit would probably do what you need.

Just an FYI you don't need to invest in a dual action polisher to compound and polish, it can be done by hand and save more than a couple dollars...but it'll take a while. I'd say start with clay and see where you're at afterwords. If you still have a bunch of paint transfer then go from there. Another thing I've heard will remove paint transfer (i've never tried it personally) is a carnauba wax, so if you have some around you can give that a go first.

If you do need paint work (it probably won't be as severe as a key) but this video will probably help if you want to try and tackle it yourself.

i think those scratches will come out. they dont seem so bad. you can confirm this by running your nail around them and seeing if it catches your fingernail. youll be better off if they dont really catch.

i think i would go with this car kit from meguiars

as well as ultimate compound

and some polish

i would then wash the car, clay the car, scratchx the scratches, plastx the headlights, compound the car, polish the car, then wax the car.

that will definitely do you. if you have more money, check out a bunch of the sidebar lists for more stuff. maximus's pretty much has it all.

edit: and maybe a couple of these mf applicators. i think they are easier to use and spread the product and work it in really well.

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM

it’s essentially a micro abrasive compound, which is used to buff out scratches, hazing and whatnot. it needs to be used after wet sanding to get rid of the hazing left behind from the 3000 grit. then you polish after the compound to get an extremely clean, haze-free result. it’s best to use a buffer to apply them but can also be done by simply rubbing with a microfiber pad.

basically you can get all of these products in a simple 3m headlight restoration kit instead of buying a bigger amounts of each separately. if you only need to hit the two spots left from removing your mudguards, i’d suggest just getting a kit instead:

https://www.amazon.com/3M-39008-Headlight-Restoration-System/dp/B001AIZ5HY

Wow. I should get into paint correction. <$250 for all the tools and polish and waxes. As a car guy, I don't mind waxing my car every 6 months (or 4 months if you're in the frigid north or are anal). I also feel it's foolish to drop $2k-4k on these nano-quartz-bullshit schemes that a lot of car guys swear by nowadays. If you want to drop $4k on paint protection, go for it, but I can get a full window-out repaint for the same price!

Here's what I learned:

Buy the equipment:

https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7424XP-6-Inch-Variable-Speed-Polisher/dp/B002654I46

https://www.amazon.com/Dual-Action-Hook-Flexible-Backing-Plate/dp/B0008G1RDK

https://www.costco.com/Kirkland-Signature-Microfiber-Towel-Case%2C-324-count.product.100341124.html

https://www.amazon.com/Collinite-Liquid-Insulator-Wax-845/dp/B000JK2D06

http://www.autogeek.net/lake-country-beveled-pad-kit.html (MIN: 2 orange, 2 white, 1 black, 1 blue -- I prefer doubling this order; Autogeek almost always has 10-25% off coupons on their mailing list)

You will also need an extension wire with the appropriate gauge (too thin/cheap cables might cause you to burn your Porter Cable motor!)


Buy the compounds (start with UC; if swirls aren't getting cut, move up to 50%/50% UC and 105 on the pads; finish with 205 regardless):

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM (medium aggressive)

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Cut-Compound/dp/B003LMGDHI (most aggressive)

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Finishing-Polish/dp/B001O7PNXC

Wash your car with this, and the two-bucket method:

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G7164-Class-Shampoo-Conditioner/dp/B0009IQXFO

https://www.amazon.com/Zwipes-Chenille-Microfiber-Premium-Scratch-Free/dp/B002J7KCOG

Claybar the car:

https://www.amazon.com/YGDZ-Quality-Detailing-Claybar-Shipping/dp/B01MF4BVVS

It took me about 5-6 relaxed hours on a Sunday with a few beers for the full correction. Now I simply top up the wax every few months (and that only takes 30 min).

The thing is, once you do the full correction and get rid of all your swirls and scuffs and whatever clearcoat damage (wash + claybar + M105/UC + M205 + wax), then you don't have to do the FULL correction ever again.

Ever again meaning, if you wash the car properly thereafter with the two-bucket method. You'll simply need to top up the wax once it stops beading -- the wax will protect the clearcoat from damage and swirls.

My wax lasted 6+ months being daily driven in the California sun with three coats of Collinite 845 -- I assume if yours will see more snow and ice and rain, perhaps it'll only last 3-4 months. But since a bottle costs <$20 and you'll get at least 36+ layers out of it, I always recommend this versus the "nano coatings" that people are shelling out $2-4k for.

Here's the Collinite fanboy thread:

https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/40243-collinite-845-definitive-how-guide-legendary-wax.html

Any other questions, feel free to ask. Good luck!

If you have enough coat built up, sand with 400, 800, and maybe 1500. Then use a buffing compound with some water and a pad on a ROS sander. If that doesn't add a glossy finish...Idk what will.

I've had good success with this stuff when I've gotten paint scuffs. Should be able to get most of it off with that, and depending on how badly you rubbed against it, some touch up paint might be needed.

Yes, I can attest to Meguiers ultimate solution. It works wonders on your clearcoat after a rough winter. My paint is now baby-ass smooth.

Link:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001O7PNNM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1426609971&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars+ultimate&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

Yup. See if you can pick up some Meguiar's Plastx or Ultimate Compound or Ultimate Polish. Depending on the severity of the haze, you may need to start with Ultimate Compound first.

Maybe try using a very light cutting Polish or Compound and buffing it out with a Dual action buffer.

It says it "Fills and hides scratches, swirl marks and spiderwebbing" meaning once the polish evaporates (from sun exposure eventually) the swirls will re-appear, it doesn't seem to be a permanent cure.

I.e. to REMOVE the swirls you will need to use an abrasive enough compound to remove enough clear coat to get to the base of the swirls. For super-light swirls Meguiars Ultimate Compound shouldwork, even by hand, but if they are significant swirls, use Meguiars swirl remover with a polisher and light pad.

This + a buffer has worked wonders for me:

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM

hey thanks for the advice i took into consideration what you suggested and ended with this stuff,

http://www.ebay.com/itm/170694956256?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

http://www.ebay.com/itm/190381853105?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

and maybe this?

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Ultimate-Polish-16-oz/dp/B004HCOE8Q/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_text_y

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound/dp/B001O7PNNM/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_text_y

WOW. That's a savings of $30. Thank-you.

This will complement the Meguiar's quick detailer I already have.

I've bought stuff off eBay before, but never Amazon. Am I buying from Amazon (store) or an individual?

EDIT: OMG. I've made a huge mistake Watch from 1:50 -2:00.

I've actually waxed my car atleast 3-4 times before the end of last year. Got my car painted (Pearl White) in summer of 2011.

EDIT 2: What is the difference: 7, 20 and 21

EDIT 3: Please note I have a Pearl White car.

EDIT 4: Haha sorry bud. I just realized how frustrating it must be trying to explain it someone inexperienced like me. I thank you for your patience.

The first thing I would try is this:

Meguiar's Ultimate Compound

Meguiar's X3070 Soft Foam 4" Applicator Pads

Meguiar's X2020 Supreme Shine Microfiber Towels

All 3 of those together is under $20 (need to spend $25 since one is an add on item). This stuff is amazing for scratches and paint in general. While it won't make your car showroom ready, it will make it look much better and is totally worth the $20.

Essentially what you do is first make sure the area is clean, then apply the compound to the pad and rub the compound on your car using circular motions. After you do that for a minute or two, use the towel to remove the compound form the car.

I'm honestly a little shocked a shop would give you the car back like that. When I was detailing for a living, there were very few cars I detailed that I couldn't get all the water spots off of, but even those never looked as bad as that when I was done. I hope you didn't have to pay much for that.


Having said that, [Meguiar's Ultimate Compound] (https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM/) is what I would use. It's probably the most newbie friendly cutting compound that I've used, but there is still the chance of burning through the paint with it. I would probably go to another detail shop and see what they could do.

Looks like delaminating clear coat. I highly recommend using McGuire's to polish just about anything with paint on it. Beautiful product that works wonders. Lovely bike it seems!

Yes, agreed. 800 -> 2000 grit. You will want to alternate directions (ie. if you are doing left & right with 800 grit, then go up & down with 1000 etc) and make sure that the scratches left behind by the previous grit are all gone before moving to the next one. You'll want swirl remover like Meguire's Ultimate Compound after you finish with the 2000 grit. There are several grades of swirl remover with finer and finer grits -- if you're really anal about it, you can get a coarse and a fine, but I only used the Ultimate compound and it worked well for me. It's a lot of work, but can be a really rewarding experience if you get the result you're looking for. You might even find you enjoyed it in the end and start building/refinishing your own partscasters, which is what I do now :)

Good luck!

All right popeye, get yourself a hand applicator, something like Orange Light Cutting CCS Euro Foam Hand Polish Applicator. Then pick up some Meguiar's Ultimate Compound and some Meguiar's Ultimate Polish. You should only need like 16 oz bottles which is probably still more than you need.

The auto store will have the compound and polish if you pick it up from there. They might carry a hand applicator.

You should also pick up a clay bar kit, something like Mothers California Gold Clay Bar Paint Saving System to get rid of the contaminants before you start rubbing more swirls into your paint while your polishing.

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM

​

i have good luck with that stuff - wallyworld has it as well as every auto parts place

> some compound

Are you taking about something like this: https://smile.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM/ref=smi_www_rco2_go_smi_g2609328962?_encoding=UTF8&%2AVersion%2A=1&%2Aentries%2A=0&ie=UTF8?

If anyone has lots of scratches/defects in their paint, here are a couple steps that really make a huge difference for a total of ~$25:

• Wash car with Meguiar's Gold Car Wash ($7)
  
• Apply Meguiar's Ultimate Compound ($14) which will clean and polish your paint job and remove scratches/oxidation.
  
• Wax paint with Turtle Wax ($6) to get a clean shine and protection against the elements
  
• Buy some Mother's Back-to-Black Plastic & Trim Restorer ($8) and use to restore plastic trim to something closer to its original condition.

Meguiar's Ultimate

There is a product (I use meguiar's brand) called compound that you can use to minimize the appearance of swirls if applied by hand, and if done with a dual action polisher will remove them completely. It is also great for removing shallow scratches in clear coat and general clear coat issues (aside from flaking and scratches that are deep). Check out /r/AutoDetailing for more info :)

Perhaps the wax you're using isn't strong enough to protect against the hard water etching. If you're using a carnauba wax, perhaps try switching to a poly wax, like Meguiar's Ultimate Wax. It has a tackier feel to it when it's cured (not slick) so I imagine it forms a thicker, stronger layer of protection over the car.

To fix lots of etching, I recommend getting a DA polisher, porter cable DA is good, here's a whole kit for under $200,: http://www.autogeek.net/poca74pofcop.html?productid=poca74pofcop&channelid=FROOG&utm_source=CSEs&utm_medium=GoogleProductSearch&utm_campaign=CSE&gclid=CJ_twp2IncACFSsV7AodMSwAAA

though I use Meguiar's microfiber DA correction system on mine, a little more expensive but better.

You can try a number of products to "clean" etching by hand. I'd prefer a cleaner polish like Meguiar's Ultimate Compound, a couple meguiar's foam pads, and a quality microfiber. And follow up with an oil-heavy pure polish like Meguiar's Ultimate Polish

Another tip is to avoid letting water dry over your car. If you have a brief shower and your car gets wet with lots of water beads, drive the car around the block, wipe it down with a huge soft microfiber, or use an electric leaf blower to blow the water off. Or get a Metropolitan Master Blaster air dryer https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dfGSLSTaOB4