Reddit reviews URBEST Inlet Module Plug 5A Fuse Switch Male Power Socket 10A 250V 3 Pin IEC320 C14
We found 20 Reddit comments about URBEST Inlet Module Plug 5A Fuse Switch Male Power Socket 10A 250V 3 Pin IEC320 C14. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
Product Name : Power Socket w Switch Fuse;Material (External) : Plastic, Metal;Color : Red, Silver Tone, Silver ToneVoltage & Current : 10A, 250V AC;Hole in Top Face Diameter : 0.42cm / 0.16"Hole Center Distance : 3.9cm / 1.5";Bottom Size : 4.7 x 2.7cm / 1.9" x 1.1"(L*W)Total Size : 5.8 x 4.8 x 3.4cm / 2.3" x 1.9" x 1.3"(L*W*H);Plug Type : 3 Pin IEC320 C14Weight : 24g;Package Content : 1 x Power Socket
I wanted to show off an arcade cabinet that my brother in-law and I built.
Imgur Gallery
We designed the cabinet in 3d to make sure everything would fit. Then cut out everything using a CNC router. We used wood glue and wood putty to put everything together. For the monitor we used a Dell 17" (we had lying around) mounted portrait. The guts of the arcade are
In all it took us a couple of weeks to design in 3D. My brother in-law did all this work. He also cut out everything and assembled the shell. I did all the internal wiring and software side of things. It is running RetroPie 4.0.2. The only really PITA is that this is a cocktail arcade. Most if not all the games needed a custom shader to correctly implement the rotation and dual flipped screens. A big shout out to hunterk from (libretro.com)[http://libretro.com] forums for helping me with this. It turns out that NES, SNES, Arcade, etc... needed their own shader to correctly display the image to both users. Also, the mame emulator has the ability on some 2 player games, to set cocktail mode. That way, when it is the 2 players turn, the screen auto rotates so they can play on their side.
We were pretty impressed with ourselves when we finished. We built it to give away at a foundation raffle a couple of weeks ago and the winner was very excited to win it.
I'll be glad to answer any questions you guys/girls have about the build. I plan on putting the glsl shaders on my github so others using the RetroPie OS in cocktail mode can use them.
Mount your powerstrip on top, route the wiring into the underside of the top and route it forward, then mount a low profile surface mount switch on the underside of the top so you can just open the drawer and turn it on and off, you can then route it out the back of the box with just a cord and a plug or you can mount an recessed male plug on the back of the box that you can plug a cord into.
I used an IEC plug for the back of my powerbank project and was pretty happy with how it turned out. I used a locking IEC cord to come out of it which I can put a twist lock plug on for cord drops, etc.
As requested:
Bartop kit - $139.99 link
Buttons - $66 link
Raspberry Pi 3 - $35 link
Raspberry Pi Case - $7.95 link
Power Recpetical - $5.99 link
USB Hub - $11.99 - linl
Zip Ties for cable management - $5.98 - link
External USB Ports - $11.90 link
Velcro Pads for mounting speakers and Raspberry Pi case - $2.98 link
64 gb SD Card - $24.88 link
HDMI to VGA adapter - $7.99 link
20 ft of 3/4 inch t-molding - $6.99 link
Total cost so far including shipping - $361.13
I just spent the last week buying and printing upgrades for my new A8... I'm also new to 3D printing. Its been printing great so far.
Purchased;
Mosfet: $10 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XP4YZ9N
GT2 Belts: $9 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F0G4144
30A PSU: $20 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7CWSCG/
Power Socket w/ Switch & Fuse: $5 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK
Printed;
Extruder Buton: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1935151
T Corner: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1672959
Anti Z Wobble: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1858435
Y Belt Tensioner: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2149867
X Belt Tensioner: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2354736
Z Endstop Fine Adjustment: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1776429
I combined this power supply with this switch combo bolted down inside an ammo can as my charging setup and charger case. If you have a drill and a Dremel, you can easily do the same. That supply gives you 30 amps of 12 volts with three separate outputs. So you could run 3 of those Accucel chargers at max power, in theory.
You seem to be misunderstanding a few things, so it'll be easier just to give you low down.
First, why do you want to switch power supplies? This is definitely an "upgrade", but unless your power supply is broken, it isn't necessary. The psu that comes with it is sufficient, and thousands of people use it. The easiest things to do to make sure it's totally safe is to mount a fan on it (if your model doesn't already have a fan), and attach a fused socket.
Adding mosfets have nothing to do with the amount of power drawn from your PSU. Without a mosfet, what happens is power goes from your PSU to your mainboard, to a mosfet on the board, to the connector on the board, to your hotbed. The on board mosfet and onboard connector are points of failure.
When people "add a mosfet" what they're doing is separating the power. Instead of PSU->Board->board mosfet->Connector->Hotbed, it goes PSU->Off board mosfet->Hotbed.
This allieviates heat and failure points on your board. You use the wires you would be connecting to your board as basically trigger wires, attaching them to the input of the mosfet board, and then the mosfet acts as a relay and the power basically flows straight from your psu to your hotbed.
Also, do not add a mosfet to your hotend. Anyone who tells you to do so doesn't know what they're talking about. Your hotend only draws 3 amps, and it may cause temperature fluctuation by design. It won't help anything, and can only make things worse.
You do want a mosfet for the hotbed though, which draws about 11 amps cold, 9 amps hot. Going back to what I was saying before, and to answer why you don't need a current limiting resistor, you don't want to limit any current. It doesn't matter if you add a mosfet or not. It's a function of ohms law. If your bed has a resistance of 1 Ohm, and you give it 12 volts, it will be drawing 12 amps. That's it. If you add a mosfet, it's job, as stated previously, is so the ~10 amps bypasses your board.
Now, if you do want to get an atx psu, 500 watts absolutely is not required. Looking back at ohms law, we see that the 1 Ohm, 12 volt, 12 amp hotbed will be drawing 144 watts. The 4 ohm, 12 volt hot end will be drawing 3 amps, and 36 watts. So your bed and hotend need 180 watts and 15 amps, your board and 5 steppers will take a few more amps, and therefore wattage. 500 is overkill, but more definitely doesn't hurt anything.
If that's the route your going, what you should do is look up the correct way to connect a mosfet, and then run your bed on a single 12 volt rail, and then run everything else on the second 12v rail.
I was thinking about this last night. If you're just using one handset just use this rather than a switch on the front side of the switching power supply. It actually eliminates a component and just turns the whole system off rather than letting the supply run.
Maybe replace that whole part
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ME5YAPK/ref=sr_pogo_speakers_display_on_website_1?sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65
You could wire it to a switch. The maker select comes with one like this for example.
Another option is to switch the power supply to an ATX one ( Computer power supply). Then you can either way a switch to turn it off and on, or use something like a raspberry pi to turn it on through wifi which is awesome.
just to expand on my other post because I didn't have all the links at the time. Hopefully this helps others too. Feel free to add to this if there are better solutions than these.
MeanWell RT-65B power supply keep in mind that the -12v rail is only good for 500ma. check your modules in modular grid to make sure you don't need more than one of these power supplies. it's super easy to wire the power supply to a busboard but if you don't feel comfortable doing it you'll have to get something like a Zeus power supply.
Vector rails TS-600 is the best value if you are building a large case or want to build more later or if you want to sell your leftovers on Reverb or whatever. You can use these screws to attach the vector rails to the case or the spacer strips.
Rail nuts these are the square nuts that slide into the rails (only for vector rails) they require M2.5 screws 6mm is a good length unless you have some thick acrylic panels on your modules or something like that. you can alternatively use threaded strips but they will cost a little more and I'm not a fan. Not all modules have their panel holes in the appropriate place and sometimes it causes a problem because the threaded insert holes are fixed in one place.
Panel mount plug w fuse you'll need to do a little wiring on this one. match the fuse value to the power supply overall amp draw. Don't go too much over. the fuse is supposed to blow if too many amps go through the case. Having too large value of fuse defeats the purpose.
I like this busboard and they also have the cheapest (Warning! see edit) 3U sideplates although I don't see why you can make your own or maybe even go without them. MDLRCASE actually has some great values on the larger cases too if you decide not to DIY. If you are in the USA shipping is quite an expense though.EDIT: the 3U side plates do not work for vector rails, they are the wrong spacing. They only work for the rails which they sell which are different. So, if you are using vector rails, don't buy these. The busboards are still cool)
If you decide to go for the flying bus cable
build notes:
Each 3U (height of one eurorack space) is approximately 5.25" (133.35mm) but the modules are mostly less than 130mm tall. so you can build the height of a 3U rack so the the interior dimension from wood to wood is 5 1/4" exactly and you'll be fine.
Don't cut wood until you have your rails and spacers or at least rails and a blank panel or module installed so that you will know the exact width you will need for the rails.
Be aware of the depth of your modules and factor the space for the power supply and busboard. don't make the case too shallow or some modules may not fit. Modulargrid is your friend for this and the power draw.
There will be wall level voltage inside your case, so make sure you route those cables neat and secure them well. Cover them if possible and don't let stray screws and stuff fall in there. If they do, power off and get them out. Use blank panels to cover unused spaces. Obviously power off and unplug when installing modules.
If it's useful, I too just got started, and built a similar drone. When it came to charging, I had to read a ton of stuff. Here's what I did (all non-referral Amazon links. you may find cheaper on banggood if you want to wait forever):
ISDT Charger
12v Power Supply
Balance Charger
To connect these up, it may be useful to have some extra XT60 plugs since the power supply won't have XT60, and neither does the balance charger.
With these optional parts, I was able to make a nice looking (and more safe) charger from the power supply, along with a 3d print available here
Voltmeter
Power plug
I found this to be a pretty fun project, and wasn't as expensive as some options I saw on HobbyKing or everywhere else. To be fair, it wasn't the cheapest option either.
I ordered an A8 and I get it this Sunday. Can you give me some more detail on the 4 things you suggest upgrading?
I looked at flashing the Marlin but do I need any extra cabling to perform the flash?
Do either of these fill the prereqs for the upgrades you mention? I ordered them as they came in a package deal with the printer.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HEQVQAK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Which power supply should I order? Did I forget to mention anything? I am trying to make sure I buy all of the stuff so I am ready to build on Sunday. I am gonna get a Raspberry Pi 3 for Octoprint as I only currently have a zero W and a Pi 4 available for use.
Hi everyone! If you liked the electronics enclosure you can download the design files here -
And here's the part list!
QUANTITY | COMPONENT NAME | LINK / COMMENT
:---------:|----------|----------
1 | 7I76-5I25 PLUG-N-GO KIT | http://store.mesanet.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=215
1 | DROK LM2596 Analog Control Step-down Regulator Module | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019RKVMKU
1 | DC Fan (120mm x 120mm x 25mm 24V) | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FBPQMXW
1 | Mesh Dust Filter for 120mm Fan | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M0A2UH0
3 | DIN Rail | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015E4EIOK
1 | IEC320 Inlet Power Socket | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK/
4 | KL-5056 Stepper Motor Driver - 32 bit DSP Based | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O6DC8PW
1 | Emergency Stop Button Switch | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0094GM004
25ft | 4 Pin Cable | www.ebay.com/itm/20M-4-Pin-5050-3528-RGB-LED-Strip-Light-Wire-Extension-Connector-Cable-Cord-Line-/282110056592?hash=item41af11d890
1 | Antek Linear Power Supply - 500W 30V 16A Peak 25A With Passive Filters / EMI-RFI Filters and Suppressors | https://www.ebay.com/itm/PS-5N30-500W-30V-16A-Peak-25A-Stepper-Motor-Antek-Linear-Power-Supply-/371664502398?hash=item5688ee3e7e
3 | Wall Outlets from Home Depot | Find ones you like / feel are safe enough using
16ft | Led Strip Lights | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GJ3O0J8/
1 | Misc. Hardware | Nuts, Bolts, Standoffs, Crimp Connectors, Spare Fuses, 2 Extra Limit Switches
2 | Ogrmar SSR-25 DA Solid State Relay with Heat Sink | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074FT4VXB/
1 | 18 AWG Gauge Stranded Hook-Up Wire Kit | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N51OO7Q
~30pc | Heat Shrink Tubing | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OZSL8UE
1 | Shop-Vac | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EPH63K0
7 | Uxcel 16mm Thread 4-Pin Panel Mount Wire Connector | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016FCZ5SS
2 | 8 Circuit 20A Terminal Block | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000S5Q2VS
Best of luck! Feel free to PM me or comment with any questions or feedback!
As a fellow Mac user, who also has a prusa mendel; I would highly recommend you use OctoPrint + a Raspberry Pi 3. This may not be a just starting out configuration but it makes life a lot easier in controlling the printer.
I use Slic3r for Mac configured to talk to the OctoPrint server through an API call, and I can send gcode to my printer across the network from the Slic3r application. With the RPi camera installed I can keep an eye on my prints without having to be in the same room.
Also you may be happier with:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7CWSCG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This PSU is a bit cheaper than your standard ATX PSU, it may be a good choice if you're looking to try this hobby out as cheaply as possible. It is a more difficult way of going because you will need to print something like:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:199089
To keep live 120VAC from being exposed on your bench.
Path of least resistance to getting started:
Slic3r > Repetier Host or PronterFace or Cura > Printer
The best way I've found (easiest):
Slic3r > OctoPrint
Seeing as I have the same printer and host OS configuration, feel free to DM me and I'll answer any questions you may have.
PSU: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7CWSCG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Fused Switch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Mosfet: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HEQVQAK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The PSU has a built-in fan that kicks on and off when the PSU gets warm. I don't plan on printing things with any crazy high temperatures, so these upgrades were probably a bit overkill, but I'd rather have components that are a bit more trustworthy than what comes with a $150 kit.
I'm guessing that the wiring diagrams you're finding are for a double pole, double throw (dpdt) switch (or similar). It appears what you have is actually a lighted switch that's single pole, single throw...I wouldn't use it in this application.
You can get a new one on amazon for <$10 or you can get another pop-in plug at your local hardware store. Since you're dealing with mains, you should leave nothing to chance, though. I suggest going out and buying a new switch which has a wiring diagram on it. For safety's sake, get a dpdt.
Just a chopped up power strip wired to switch with a fuse on the inside. Then the Pi, monitor, and speakers plug into the strip.
Here's the switch I used: http://www.amazon.com/URBEST%C2%AEInlet-Module-Switch-Socket-IEC320/dp/B00ME5YAPK/ref=pd_bxgy_147_2?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=1J71V15ZGET9SM4S253H
Power Switch - in case anyone else wants one.
Actually, the parts are pretty standard, so it doesn't really matter where you buy from.
I bought them from various sources (electronics markets, amazon, and some local shops), so my links are just to be seen as examples:
Printed upgrades:
There is one small error in the assembly videos: The bed mounting plate (the H-shaped thing) is mounted upside down in the video. The bar that goes across the axes and connects both outer plates should be under the plates, not above as in the assembly videos.
Sure no problem. You can probably find them a tad cheaper on ebay but I got them from Amazon. You might be able to use the Jamma harness you have already if it didn't melt. But I'd just a buy a new one. If you need help wiring up after you get the stuff let me know. I'll snap few more pics of how I go it wired up.
Power Supply
Jamma Harness
Module Plug