Reddit Reddit reviews US Ship Hobbywing 5V/6V 3A Switch-mode UBEC, Max 5A Lowest RF

We found 10 Reddit comments about US Ship Hobbywing 5V/6V 3A Switch-mode UBEC, Max 5A Lowest RF. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

US Ship Hobbywing 5V/6V 3A Switch-mode UBEC, Max 5A Lowest RF
Hobbywing 5.2-5.25V/5.85-6V 3A Switch Type UBEC, Max 5Aswitch-mode DC-DC regulator supplied with a 2-6 cells lithium battery packSupplying a consistent safe voltage for your receiver, gyro and servosInput: 5.5V-26VSize: 43mm*17mm*7mm (L*W*H)
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10 Reddit comments about US Ship Hobbywing 5V/6V 3A Switch-mode UBEC, Max 5A Lowest RF:

u/gambiter · 6 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Which is the point of the switching power supply. That's one of the best changes. Not only does it reduce power consumption, but it will probably fix the majority of reboot issues people have.

Of course you can do the same with your old model B. I've been powering mine through the GPIO pins with one of these (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008ZNWOYY) for some time now, so stability without a powered hub has always been possible.

u/lametec · 5 pointsr/radiocontrol

If the ESC doesn't have a built in BEC, you can buy a separate BEC.. BEC is RC speak for voltage regulator.

For example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008ZNWOYY

u/jackal858 · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

One thing I'm planning on doing is using 3.5mm bullet connectors at all the pads of that distribution board (like THIS). Probably do a very short run of wire off each pad into a connector. My thought was to make it easy to swap/add parts/wires in the future. This is certainly part of the build that I'm "in the air" about, but want to have the board just in case I decide to use it.

You will want to check to see how much voltage your flight controller requires (I believe they're mostly all 5v?). You won't be able to wire directly to the battery leads if it's 5v, but would have to use one of the BEC lines from an ESC, or get a UBEC to turn the 12v from the battery into a clean 5v.

u/MikeOnBike · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

I recommend moving to 12v components and then regulating the power back down to 5v for the Pi. There will be many more options and prices will be better.

Start with a solar panel:
http://www.amazon.com/HQRP-Mono-crystalline-Anodized-Aluminum-Radiation/dp/B002HSUT40

Use a charge controller to attach it to your battery(s):
http://www.amazon.com/Sunforce-7-Amp-Charge-Controller/dp/B0006JO0XI

Attach a voltage regulator to the battery and your Pi:
http://www.amazon.com/Ship-Hobbywing-Switch-mode-UBEC-Lowest/dp/B008ZNWOYY/

As far as batteries go, buying local will save you some shipping. If this is an outside battery you can use a deep cycle/RV battery. If inside then you need something sealed. You should have several days of reserve for bad weather. Maybe something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/26-SEALED-VOLT-DEEP-RECHARGEABLE/dp/B007GCDDOA

u/chevyfried · 2 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

No major strain on the fan, it just lowers the voltage, not perfect but probably not going to set a fire pulling .3a. I use them on my RC cars for LEDs and stuff. This is the one I have used many times on different projects. It takes 12v and lowers it to either 6v or 5v, up to 3a. I had it at 6v first, but I could feel blowback so lowered it to 5v. Works perfect and is whisper quiet.

No cant be used as a speed controller. It's constant output. If you want to adjust speed, you want a PWM like this. That will allow you to adjust the speed. The good thing about PWMs are they dont lower voltage, they lower the pulse width.

u/geometricality · 1 pointr/Multicopter

If you are in the US this Hobbywing UBEC sold in Amazon is pretty good. If you are somewhere else here's a link to the same one sold by Banggood.

u/rubiksman · 1 pointr/Multicopter

This BEC (sorry, forgot to link) has an input range from 5-22v, so you can connect it to a 3s or 4s battery directly. It will always output the selected voltage (5v or 6v, depending on the jumper).

Also, whats Osborne?

u/SUBWAYJAROD · 1 pointr/radiocontrol

Really?

I have this as my ESC: Hobbywing Platinum-30A-OPTO

How can I find a compatible external BEC, or where do you shop for those?

For example, is this a good choice?: https://www.amazon.com/Ship-Hobbywing-Switch-mode-UBEC-Lowest/dp/B008ZNWOYY

u/beomagi · 1 pointr/Nerf

Agreed. I'd go with a proper BEC
e.g. https://www.amazon.com/Ship-Hobbywing-Switch-mode-UBEC-Lowest/dp/B008ZNWOYY

Of course it's more expensive than a simple linear regulator, but I generally go for efficiency. You're dropping from 12.6 to 5V. You're looking at 39.6% efficiency. If you start drawing more power to your arduino and other modules, you're wasting 60% of the energy as heat.

I don't know what you're doing with the arduino, but if you're powering up other sensors, or using servos and motors, you can easily pull more than a couple amps.
For my serious projects where I'm using high torque servos, I use Castle Creations 10A BECs.

u/raunchyfartbomb · 1 pointr/rccars

The voltage you want wouldn’t be additive. You would get one battery for the application, then a BEC to get the 5v for the arduino. (The voltage requirement isn’t additive, current is what is additive. Voltage is distributed in parallel.)

The circuit should only draw as much current as the motors allow / chip decides to let through. I would recommend either a 3S Life Battery which produces 9.9v or a 2S Lipo battery (7.4v though). If you are going to be drawing more than a few amps, I recommend the LIPO battery, it has larger wires.

The higher the MAH rating the longer it will last on a charge.

Also, if you are going for LiFe/LiPo get a charger for it. They require special charges. I personally use the Duratrax LI-24 charger. with this balance board to monitor voltage, but something like this is probably better.

As for a BEC, somethis like this should would work. An arduino shouldn’t pull too much amperage, but you should always check your specs to make sure you get a BEC with adequate operating amps.

Edit: I also recommend this servo extension pack especially if you get the LiFe battery, since it will typically have this style connector. I have used those cables several times for custom harnesses, whether it’s making a Y-harness or modifying a battery compartment to accept the LuFe battery.