Reddit Reddit reviews Whetstone Cutlery 20-10960 Knife Sharpening Stone-Dual Sided 400/1000 Grit Water Stone-Sharpener and Polishing Tool for Kitchen, Hunting and Pocket Knives or Blades by Whetstone

We found 33 Reddit comments about Whetstone Cutlery 20-10960 Knife Sharpening Stone-Dual Sided 400/1000 Grit Water Stone-Sharpener and Polishing Tool for Kitchen, Hunting and Pocket Knives or Blades by Whetstone. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

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Whetstone Cutlery 20-10960 Knife Sharpening Stone-Dual Sided 400/1000 Grit Water Stone-Sharpener and Polishing Tool for Kitchen, Hunting and Pocket Knives or Blades by Whetstone
DUAL SIDED SHARPENING- Made from durable silicon carbide, this two-sided sharpening block comes with both a 400-grit side, used for returning edges to their original shape, and a 1000-grit side used for smoothing and polishing cutting edges.WATER STONE- This stone is meant to be used with water, not oil. Simply soak stone for 5-10 minutes before use, and lubricate with additional water as needed when sharpening. No expensive honing oil needed!MULTI USE TOOL- This whetstone can be used as a one-stop shop for any item you want sharpened and polished, including kitchen cutlery, scissors, hunting or pocket knives, blades, and razors. Also works for hatchets, axes, carving and gardening tools.RESTORES SHARPNESS- After one use with this water stone, dull knives and battered blades will be restored to razor sharpness. Recondition all your tools with this kitchen or workshop essential.Dimensions: 7” (L) x 2.25” (W) x 1.125” (H). Material: Green Silicon Carbide. Features include: 2-sided stone block, Dark Green: 400 Grit, Light Green: 1000 Grit.
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33 Reddit comments about Whetstone Cutlery 20-10960 Knife Sharpening Stone-Dual Sided 400/1000 Grit Water Stone-Sharpener and Polishing Tool for Kitchen, Hunting and Pocket Knives or Blades by Whetstone:

u/ChefIan · 11 pointsr/Cooking

I've had to cut a case of sweet potatoes into wedges every single day. For the last three years. I'm tired of it.

Also, if you have a decently expensive knife, you shouldn't use a pull-through sharpener on it, especially not frequently. Find a waterstone. You shouldn't need to really sharpen more than once a year.

u/dbcoder · 8 pointsr/Cooking

You don't need to take them anywhere! Something like this is all you need

u/YNPCA · 6 pointsr/Chefit
u/SGT_Crunch · 6 pointsr/ThriftStoreHauls

Oh PLEASE don't use that type of sharpener on any sort of quality knife. You're just going to get a jagged edge and a tone of steel removed each time. Get even a cheap whetstone and you will be much happier with a knife that lasts much longer :)

u/itty53 · 6 pointsr/youseeingthisshit

> I personally use a 1x30 belt sander with high grit paper,

"So your first step is to build a belt sander..."

Just buy a whetstone and learn how to properly use it. That's how you sharpen a knife. You can build them with your setup. I use this one. My knives come out scary sharp.

u/cmbyrd · 4 pointsr/LifeProTips

Someone linked you a $4 sharpener. Those would probably do a decent enough job for knives you don't much care about.

If you actually do care about your knives, taking care of them, and don't mind taking a bit of time to learn to sharpen them properly... try something along the lines of this

400 is rough enough to 'quickly' hone out small chips in the blade's edge, and set a rough shape to your edge. 1k is fine enough to make a more-than-just-passable edge for a western style kitchen knife. The jump between them isn't so big that you'd need (or really want) an intermediate stone.

u/romple · 3 pointsr/seriouseats

I started practicing with one of these. Find some really old steak knives or chef knives. I had some steak knives that couldn't cut anything but butter, and if I threw them away I'd be happy to just be rid of trash. Knives you really don't care about.

Anyway, watch some videos and get to work on them with the 400 grit. You'll have to remove a lot of steel, but that's fine. You don't care about the knives so it's fine if you ruin them, which you probably won't. At some point you'll get a new edge on it and can move to the 1000 grit side to finish it off.

It's actually pretty easy and it doesn't take long to get the feel for holding an angle.

u/Caleo · 3 pointsr/woodworking

A lot of people like the double edge japanese saws on Amazon (the Ryoba ones). I have one and it works well, but I also have a table saw, circular saws and a band saw, hackzall.. etc.. so it doesn't get used often.

I'd recommend getting a decent #4 hand planer.. but not the cheap stanley one that makes you mess with two knobs to adjust the cut depth (it's hard to keep straight).

Little machinist square helps make sure blades are square to tables (also that corners are square) -

Also worthwhile to pick up a cheap kanna block plane, they work well for chamfering corners:

Pick up a good dual-grit sharpening stone for your chisels, and preferably a chisel bevel guide. You don't need expensive chisels to have them work well (they will hold an edge better though). Being sharpened well is the most important thing. Finish off your sharpening jobs with light strokes on a leather strop with some polishing compound.

u/mays85 · 3 pointsr/AskCulinary

Get you a good waterstone (or called whetstone) & watch a video or two on how to go about using it.

u/TheSharpDoctor · 3 pointsr/knifeclub

Freehand and under $15 the Whetstone Cutlery 400/1000 Grit Whetstone is a nice starting affordable freehand whetstone.

Guided and under $25 the Work Sharp Guided Field Sharpener is a nice mini complete package that includes a 220 grid diamond plate for chip repair, a fine 600 grit diamond plate, 1000+ grit ceramic rod and a leather strop with compound.

You can also send the knife back to Kershaw for a free sharpening then just invest in a nice strop with compound to touch up the edge. Done properly you only need to send it back to Kershaw probably once a year if that.

u/rabidfurby · 3 pointsr/everymanshouldknow

First of all, never buy a matching set of knives. Instead, buy a generic knife storage block, and fill it out as you need it. I have this one from Amazon and like it a lot.

For chef's knives, I'm really happy with the Kiwi knives I got from the Wok Shop. They're certainly no Henkels or Wusthof, but they're absolutely fantastic for the price. They see daily use in my kitchen, right alongside my $100 Global santoku. Get a real whetstone (like this) and learn how to use it, and you can get a really nice edge on them too.

u/flyingfences · 2 pointsr/anime_irl
u/GrandDaddyKaddy · 2 pointsr/sharpening

Whetstone Cutlery 20-10960 Knife Sharpening Stone-Dual Sided 400/1000 Grit Water Stone-Sharpener and Polishing Tool for Kitchen, Hunting and Pocket Knives or Blades by Whetstone

Ended up ordering this combo stone. Probably not a great one if price is any indicator but I figure it's good enough until I improve my technique. Thinking I may have to mount some 180 or 240 grit sandpaper to a block of wood before getting to work with the 400 🤔

u/JVonDron · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Ok, $100 isn't going to go very far, especially if you need everything, but here we go.

Whetstone - This is slightly better than the hardware store combination stones, but it's cheap, it's a water stone, and it's got a good grit combo.

Handsaw - Japanese style, cuts on a pull stroke, crosscut and rip teeth. I have this exact saw, still works pretty damn good after a dozen years of occasional use.

Beater chisels - Not the best steel, but a chisel is better than no chisel. You'll want at least 2 sets of chisels anyway - don't beat the hell out of your good set.

Block plane - Don't expect super high quality from Stanley anymore, but we've all got at least one of these little block planes somewhere.

And I'm $6 above the gift card budget. The chisels and plane will need some sharpening before use, but it's enough to get you started. You still need marking/measuring tools, a square, a work surface, clamps, vise, and obviously, some wood to sink your teeth into.

u/tom-uh-hawk · 2 pointsr/phoenix

I've had this one for ages, and it's pretty solid.

u/BenchMonster74 · 2 pointsr/sharpening

Whetstone Cutlery 20-10960 Knife Sharpening Stone-Dual Sided 400/1000 Grit Water Stone-Sharpener and Polishing Tool for Kitchen, Hunting and Pocket Knives or Blades by Whetstone

This is a good cheap combo stone to sharpen knives but I wouldn’t waste time on that kukri shaped object. Get a proper knife made out of carbon steel and get after it.

u/elasticbuttreduce · 2 pointsr/uwaterloo
u/BungleSim · 1 pointr/Cooking

This has actually been the most frustrating thing for me because I'm an engineer and I DIY everything as I enjoy being able to do most things like this myself. I've now sat down in front of the TV probably four times with this whetstone. I've watched all the YouTube videos, I've paid attention to the angle, how hard I'm pressing, sliding the knife forward only, then tried back only, back and forth, counting all the strokes to make sure I'm sharpening both sides the same amount... Still have a dull knife. Not even a serviceable edge. I'd like to know what the hell I'm doing wrong.

u/bladezaim · 1 pointr/whittling

Thanks for the advice. I bought this whetstone to keep my knives sharp.
Was that a smart move or did i mess up?

u/_altar · 1 pointr/Knife_Swap

You can always go the traditional whetstone route and learn to freehand sharpen. As long as you're patient and diligent the process is very relaxing and rewarding. I'll throw some links to some good stones in here for ya:
Whetstone Cutlery | Beginner Stone for Sharpening
Sharp Pebble | Beginner Stone for Finishing

I also recommend you check out Burrfection on youtube for a good overview of beginner knife sharpening using whetstones. You'll save money, albeit use more time learning a new skill with this path but it's my preferred method of sharpening on the cheap currently.

u/IHkumicho · 1 pointr/Cooking

Honestly, stones are your best (and possibly cheapest) option if you're willing to put in a little bit of effort to understand how to use them. Even the cheapest, simplest one will work wonders. Personally I use this one: $13

It's fantastic for actually putting an edge back on to a dull-as-shit knife, and the 1000 grit is more than enough to absolutely change your mind on what "sharp" should be. It's not going to be the "as-seen-in-Youtube-videos cutting silk scarves" sharp, but will be more than enough to improve your knife skills. And if you want to go crazy, this one (which progressively gets it sharper and sharper) is only another $15:

Watch a youtube video on how to do it (it's really not that hard), and go to town. You won't regret it.

u/zoeanx · 1 pointr/knives

This is the one he had on his wishlist.

Whetstone Cutlery Two-Sided Whetstone Stone

u/jemag · 1 pointr/chefknives

Thank you for your reply!

I currently have those 2 whetstones:

u/ahenkel · 1 pointr/AskCulinary

I bought one of these about 6 months ago. It works great. Sure it won't give my knives a mirror shine, but it's easy to use and keeps em sharp

u/Aerron · 1 pointr/handtools

Something like this

u/3TH4N_12 · 1 pointr/sharpening

This one seems to have a pretty decent combination of grits, but there's a 400/1000 stone that's even cheaper and more popular.

u/ETeeski · 1 pointr/knives

From most of the reviews of the knife, it comes with a pretty good edge, not razor sharp though.

Ok, after searching amazon, looks like the green compound is pretty cheap, so I'll get that. 6oz green compound for $3

And if 1000 grit is what I need for a whetstone, looks like you can get cheap ones on amazon too. Here's a double sided 250/1000 grit stone Also, the blade on the knife I'm getting is only 2.8 inches long, so I assume the size of this whetstone should be good enough.

I guess that's only $10 more than what I would have spend on sandpaper. I assume the cheap whetstone and green compound on cardboard would be a better choice? I also read that the back of a coffee cup is almost like a 1000 grit stone, but I assume the actual whetstone will just work a lot better?

Thanks for all the info.

u/Myfrenchtoast · 0 pointsr/Cartalk

God. I just went through this on my truck. Took me 4 tries to get it right. Heres what ended up working. Hopefully it will save you a similar nightmare.

First thing to do is leak test that manifold. Just looking for cracks isn't enough. I made a flange out of particle board and silicone kitchen sealant. Then I cut the valve stem out of a bike tube and made another flange for the collector opening. Pressurized to about 5 PSI and sprayed soapy water all over it. Its a good thing I checked because one of the welds was cracked. Ended up returning it. That would have been a 12 hour mistake had I installed it. The second set I had passed.

Clean the surface of the manifold and the mating surface of the engine block. Make sure the surface of the manifold is as perfectly flat as you can get. Most gaskets will only take up 50 thousandths or so of gap, less if its a scratch. So measure it first against a really flat surface. If its warped, a good trick is to glue fine grit sand paper to a really flat surface and sand down the high spots. I used a sharpie to color in the entire manifold surface first so I could see where the high spots were. Sanding took a while

I used a new knife sharpening stone like this one to polish the mating surface of the engine block. I broke the stone with a hammer to get a decent sized piece that would fit. The goal isn't to remove metal, its to clean the carbon off without distorting the flatness of the engine block. Some people recommended sand paper for this, but yikes. Maybe scotch bright would work too.

Last thing is to buy a good gasket. I used Percys Seal for good dead soft aluminum gaskets on my first attempt with the recommended bolt torque. They leaked. Second attempt was upping the torque by 50%, leaked worse. Third try was putting a little RTV on each side of the gasket, still leaked. What finally worked was a JBA steel core crush gasket with no RTV. It has graphite or something on it for the crush. Fel-pro makes a decent equivilent.

I tightened the bolts in 4 steps - hand tight to locate the manifold, then as tight as I could get with a combination wrench, then 50% of the torque value, then 100%. Each time tightening them from the inside out and alternating from top to bottom. There was a significant amount of crush happening on the 50% torque step. Make sure you use a small amount of copper anti-seize on the bolts. You'll strip out the threads on your block next time you remove them otherwise.

I went back after two days and retightened the bolts. The had loosened up significantly. Went back again a week later and everything was still tight.

u/Glocktipus · -8 pointsr/gifs

I think this should be a meme or something. I bought my parents this one christmas and can now actually cook at their house: