Reddit reviews Winsor & Newton Series 7 Kolinsky Sable Watercolor Brush

Most people will suggest skipping GW for paint and hobby tools to save money. I suggest hitting amazon for a pair of flush cutters, set of needle files, and pack of testors model cement. Krylon camo black spray paint is a fine substitute for expensive primers. Vallejo paints are a top reccomended brand, and there is a conversion chart to convert old and new gw colors to vallejo colors.

A set of just standard tac marines is a great place to start, you'll use them for sure and theres plenty there to work on technique, hit up the warhammer youtube channel, as they have painting tutorials that are really great, watch as many as possible as each has something you can use even if they aren't painting space marine models.


http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FZPDG1K/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1459352340&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=flush+cutter&dpPl=1&dpID=414t7uLh8KL&ref=plSrch


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013E68SU/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(Starting out you should be fine with just a zero, but if you really have moneh burnig a hole in your pocket a 1 and 00 would also come in handy eventually. Never leave your brush sitting in your water cup, don't let paint dry in your brush, and keep paint out of the metal part.)


http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013D53CS/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1459352997&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=testors+model+glue&dpPl=1&dpID=51QQU8wrc-L&ref=plSrch


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NPUKYS/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1459352697&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=needle+file+set+for+metal&dpPl=1&dpID=412lincr%2B5L&ref=plSrch

Add an xacto and tube of superglue from your local superstore and you have all the tools needed to crank out perfectly acceptable models. I'll admit the brush is a bit overkill, but you're saving so much money on the rest of the tools, and a good brush makes the experience much more enjoyable, I suggest splurging there. Also don't bee fooled into buying a basing kit, regular old sand does just fine,

> When moving a unit along their movement value'd distance, do you usually measure out the lead model, move it, and then move each other model in the unit in approximately the same (but not measured) distance to maintain coherency, or do you measure out each individual model in a unit to ensure not a single one possibly goes further than its value? Or is this something agreed upon by the players pre-match?

> If each model is measured, I could see some units (ie, conscript squads) being extremely time-consuming or difficult to deal with depending on terrain and model count.

Officially, each model. However almost everyone I've ever played with does it the "time saving way" when dealing with large groups of models. This usually isn't a problem when you are clearly moving them less than max movement range. This is especially the case with horde units that have greater than 10 models to a unit. 20x Poxwalkers for instance. Once you get used to playing, it isn't too time consuming for a single 5 model Marine squad.

> On the second question, is there a generally agreed upon "kit" or set of paint brushes to get before starting to paint models? In addition to the First Strike box I got last night, I also got the small Painting Essentials box which includes a brush (along with cutter, glue, and some small pots), but wasn't sure what other brushes I might need/want before starting to paint.

The "goto" kit for brushes tends to be a Winsor and Newton Series 7 Round Size #2 and #0. Keep them clean with Master's Brush soap and they'll last you a long time. You can find them on Amazon. At $10-$15 a brush they aren't cheap when starting out. And that's arguably more then you need for a first model. You can get by with a cheap bag of small "gold taklon" brushes from walmart or similar at first.

Here's something I wrote recently on brushes for someone else looking for some nicer brushes....

https://www.reddit.com/r/deathguard40k/comments/8ac9ui/what_warhammer_brushes_should_i_get_what_vallejo/

As for Army Painter brushes specifically. It's what I started with before moving to Kolinsky Hair brushes. Still use a number of their small dry brushes for small detail dry brushing. If you are set on Army Painter... The Wargamer series, specifically the Regiment, Character, and Detail brushes are pretty solid. As well as the Wargamer Small Drybrush. Certainly better than Walmart synthetics. Have held up well cleaning with Masters Brush Soap linked below. They just have never had the same type of fine tip you get on a Kolinsky. The super small Army Painter brushes aren't really worth it though in the long run.

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I have a large collection of brushes with my better half. Bought her a large collection from different brands from around the world so she could try different styles to find the perfect brush for her.

Essentially, you'll want a Natural Kolinsky fiber brush in round shape for miniature base coating, shading, layering, edging and detail work. They will last you quite a while if you take care of them. Most people find they can do everything with a #2 and #0. A workhorse and a detail brush. Good natural Kolinsky hair helps thinned paint flow properly out of the brush, and holds an excellent point. There are a number of options to get a good Kolinsky brush:

As for brands, you have options:

• Winsor and Newton Series 7. Well known for quality and value among miniature painters. This is the gauge by which other high end brushes are judged. - #2, #0
  
• da Vinci. A little more but you can get a nice Travel Series for similar money to their traditional handled brushes. Helps protect the tip while in storage or traveling to the store to paint. They run a little smaller/thinner than W&N Series 7. - #2, #1. This is always the first brush my better half reaches for, if she's not feeling it that day though she'll pull just about any other Kolinsky brush from her collection.
  
• On the cheaper side is ZEM. Had very good luck with them. Good companion for the W&N7 as I use ZEMs when painting metallics as they can be a bit rougher on brushes. They do have some ware to them after dozens of models compared to the more expensive W&N or da Vinci. But don't need to be thrown in the trash like the cheap synthetics. Brush soap does wonders. Set of size #10/0, #0, #2, & #4. Or Individually. These tend to be the first brush I reach for... since I gave the other brushes as a gift. I try to stay to my cheap brushes... If I'm not feeling it that day then I will grab a W&N7.
  
• Other Brands of Kolinsky fiber brushes I own but don't have as much experience with... Raphael, Escoda, Connoisseur.
  
• There's also Citadel's own Artificer line... They are also Kolinsky fiber brushes so need to be cleaned regularly. I have not tried them but many suggest they are similar quality as the W&N Series 7. Just a little more expensive.
  
• When friends come over to learn how to paint up thier board game or DnD minis... I hand them a pouch an assortment of Army Painter Wargamer Brushes or Winsor and Newton synthetic Cotman so they don't need to learn on walmart brushes, but don't risk our Kolinskys.
  
  Then you'll want to keep it all clean with "The Masters" Brush Soap and Conditioner. Cleaning regularly will make a big difference brush life. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009RRT9Y/ ... Keeping brushes freshly rinsed in a basin can help prevent the bad buildup of dried paint to begin with. This kind of thing... https://www.amazon.com/Loew-Cornell-Brush-Tub-II/dp/B0019IKYU8/ or really any sturdy cup you have around that won't tip over easily.
  
  NOTE - You'll want to use cheaper brushes for Drybrushing, it can just murder brushes. Either walmart/craft store brushes you can toss, or just cheaper quality brushes made for it, like Army Painter or Citadels drybrush lines.
  
  As for paint... I use Army Painter and Citadel. Citadel primarily for anything warhammer to get color matches. Army painter for some washes, and anything else I paint (boardgame and DnD minis). Rither now I are only using Vallejo for Airbrush paints and a few premium metallics.
  
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  There's a great guide that got me and my other half started over on the /r/minipainting subreddit. https://www.reddit.com/r/minipainting/comments/50hd3a/rminipainting_buying_guide_hd_remastered/
  
  
  

I mean, I agree with you absolutely in principal. But those things are only like 13 bucks. And the GW brushes are actually more expensive.

So speaking from experience here, use those for base coats and such, and buy one single winsor newton series 7 size 0 brush. Not the one for miniatures. You will fucking thank everyone who's ever recommended them to you. You literally do not know what you're missing until you use a high quality brush. You don't even need to get a winsor newton. You could try the princeton select series first.

Winsor & Newton Series 7 #0 - $13

Princeton Select Rounds - $4

Trust me... Please god trust me.

The things I use a lot:

• W&N Series 7 Brushes - size 1 and size 0
  
• Cheap brushes for non-detailed work, or washing
  
• Cheap stubbly brush for drybrushing (its an old brush with the tip cut off)
  
• W&N Acrylic Flow Improver
  
• Basic pallette
  
• Citadel paints for all basic colors & washes
  
• Vallejo liquid gold paints for copper/bronze/gold
  
• Swann-Morten Scalpel
  
• Steel Ruler
  
• Sprue Cutters
  
• Pin vice
  
• Dremel Drill Bits for Vice
  
• Cork Sheeting for basing
  
• Model Railway Ballast or Sand for Basing
  
• Self Adhesive grass tufts
  
• Various Glues (Superglue, poly cement, PVA) - any brand
  
• Metal Sculpting Tools
  
• Cheap Green Stuff
  
• Cheap car primers
  
• Scenic Rust Kit
  
  Think thats it?

Winsor & Newton Series 7 Kolinsky Sable Watercolor Brush https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013E68SU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_w7-kDbXDPSJV0

I like Windsor Newton brushes. They are some of the better brushes out there. They will cost more, but preform better and longer. 000 is the smallest for painting eyes. 0 works for most detail.

You may want to invest in a couple nicer sable brushes and some brush soap to help clean em. Stuff like:

Winsor & Newton Series 7 Kolinsky Sable Watercolor Brush https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013E68SU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_sUgOBbBD2VWYV

General Pencil 105-BP The Masters Brush Cleaner & Preserver 2.5 Ounces Carded- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0027AEANE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_EZgOBbP7Q1W7N

Maybe get the brush cleaner first and then get the sweet kolinsky brush ;-)

Highly recommend getting this to get started: Reaper Bones Learn to Paint Kit

Also, if you want to make your life a little easier, consider making or buying a wet palette, a nice Sable brush, and definitely some Master's Brush Cleaner.

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If you're just painting the one mini, you can get Reaper paints and use their online tool to decide which colors to get.

My advice? Start with cheaper paints and better brushes. GW paints are high quality but prohibitively expensive when starting out. So you get your 'must haves' - black, white, leadbelcher, your base color and a couple washes - then fill out the rest with cheap hobby paint. Replace those over time with higher quality GW or Vallejo paints as you get more involved with the hobby.

Brushes though are so important - painting with a high quality brush just makes such a huge difference. Your brush quality is what's going to determine whether you have a relaxing time painting or you're crying with frustration. GW brushes are... ok. But certainly not worth the premium prices they charge.

You really only need a size 1 and a size 0 for painting infantry. A dedicated drybrush for bases, but the drybrush can be a cheap $1 brush from the local craft store. This is what you want for your primary brushes:

https://www.amazon.com/Winsor-Newton-Kolinsky-Sable-Watercolor/dp/B0013E68SU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1495811846&sr=8-3&keywords=sable+brush

Commonly regarded as THE best brush for miniature painting, it's now super affordable. And you'll want a good brush cleaner too, to care for your fancy brushes:

https://www.amazon.com/Masters-Cleaner-Preserver-Ounces-Carded/dp/B0027AEANE/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1495812254&sr=8-11&keywords=brush+cleaner

BTW if you end up painting Blood Ravens, PM me. I spent quite a lot of time experimenting with color pallettes for them and can give you some more detailed tips.

thanks... im looking at purchasing a 0 here...

http://www.amazon.com/Winsor-Newton-Kolinsky-Sable-Watercolor/dp/B0013E68SU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463073552&sr=8-1&keywords=Windsor+and+Newton+Series+7+brushes

what do u think?