Reddit Reddit reviews Winsor & Newton Series 7 Kolinsky Sable Watercolor Brush - Round #2

We found 6 Reddit comments about Winsor & Newton Series 7 Kolinsky Sable Watercolor Brush - Round #2. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Winsor & Newton Series 7 Kolinsky Sable Watercolor Brush - Round #2
The World’s Finest Water Color Brush - for artists who appreciate exquisite quality and longevity, there is no other brush than the Winsor & Newton Series 7.Point – having a crisp point and maintaining that during use.Snap & Spring – the brush snaps back crisply into shape with the right degree of spring to allow the artist superior control with a degree of give and take between the brush and painting surface.Flow Control – the color flows evenly and consistently from the point with enough color carry capacity within the belly of the brush to lay down a flowing gestural stoke of colour.
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6 Reddit comments about Winsor & Newton Series 7 Kolinsky Sable Watercolor Brush - Round #2:

u/overthemountain · 14 pointsr/boardgames

I would recommend you check out Sorastro's painting guides on YouTube. His method is probably the easiest way to get good a good quality paint job with minimal effort.

The steps are basically:

  • Prime it
  • Base coat it
  • Quickshade it
  • Optional highlights and other finishing touches

    It's not the absolute best paint job possible, but it's a pretty good one for the effort and skill required.

    As for paints and brushes and primers - there are a lot of options.

    You'll want a primer that is meant for plastics. Most people go black or white, but if you're painting a lot of minis and want to save some time, get one in the primary color the models will be. This will make the base coating step much faster.

    You could go with good paints, like Vallejo, P3, or Citadel. I prefer Vallejo personally, but any of them would do well. You could also go with cheaper craft paints. They'll probably be a bit granier but will be significantly cheaper. For example, a set of 18 Apple Barrel Acrylics will run you $18. This is about the equivalent of 62 Vallejo paints (in terms of quantity) but those are usually closer to $3 each (or ~$180 or 10x as expensive - get these at a local game or hobby store, they are like $6-7 on Amazon). Whichever one you choose - make sure to thin down the paints by adding water to get a good consistency - you don't want it to be too thick and obscure details.

    In regards to how many - well, that depends on what you want to paint. It might help to plan out how you want to go about it and then just get the paints you'll need. I'd start with one project, see how it goes, and then plan to get any other paints you need for additional projects, especially if you go with the more expensive art quality acrylics.

    For brushes, I recommend a size 2 brush. Most mini painters can do pretty much everything with a size 2. You can get an expensive Kolinsky sable one which will run you about $20 or you can get some cheaper ones that might be more like $7-8 or you can get really cheap ones which might have a pack of 5 or more brushes for like $5. I'd probably start with a $7 one see if this is something you really want to do or not. For the method I linked to above, they will work just fine. For finer detail you may need something smaller, but you could probably still get away with just the size 2.
u/Route66_LANparty · 7 pointsr/Warhammer

> When moving a unit along their movement value'd distance, do you usually measure out the lead model, move it, and then move each other model in the unit in approximately the same (but not measured) distance to maintain coherency, or do you measure out each individual model in a unit to ensure not a single one possibly goes further than its value? Or is this something agreed upon by the players pre-match?

> If each model is measured, I could see some units (ie, conscript squads) being extremely time-consuming or difficult to deal with depending on terrain and model count.

Officially, each model. However almost everyone I've ever played with does it the "time saving way" when dealing with large groups of models. This usually isn't a problem when you are clearly moving them less than max movement range. This is especially the case with horde units that have greater than 10 models to a unit. 20x Poxwalkers for instance. Once you get used to playing, it isn't too time consuming for a single 5 model Marine squad.

> On the second question, is there a generally agreed upon "kit" or set of paint brushes to get before starting to paint models? In addition to the First Strike box I got last night, I also got the small Painting Essentials box which includes a brush (along with cutter, glue, and some small pots), but wasn't sure what other brushes I might need/want before starting to paint.

The "goto" kit for brushes tends to be a Winsor and Newton Series 7 Round Size #2 and #0. Keep them clean with Master's Brush soap and they'll last you a long time. You can find them on Amazon. At $10-$15 a brush they aren't cheap when starting out. And that's arguably more then you need for a first model. You can get by with a cheap bag of small "gold taklon" brushes from walmart or similar at first.

Here's something I wrote recently on brushes for someone else looking for some nicer brushes....

https://www.reddit.com/r/deathguard40k/comments/8ac9ui/what_warhammer_brushes_should_i_get_what_vallejo/

As for Army Painter brushes specifically. It's what I started with before moving to Kolinsky Hair brushes. Still use a number of their small dry brushes for small detail dry brushing. If you are set on Army Painter... The Wargamer series, specifically the Regiment, Character, and Detail brushes are pretty solid. As well as the Wargamer Small Drybrush. Certainly better than Walmart synthetics. Have held up well cleaning with Masters Brush Soap linked below. They just have never had the same type of fine tip you get on a Kolinsky. The super small Army Painter brushes aren't really worth it though in the long run.

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I have a large collection of brushes with my better half. Bought her a large collection from different brands from around the world so she could try different styles to find the perfect brush for her.

Essentially, you'll want a Natural Kolinsky fiber brush in round shape for miniature base coating, shading, layering, edging and detail work. They will last you quite a while if you take care of them. Most people find they can do everything with a #2 and #0. A workhorse and a detail brush. Good natural Kolinsky hair helps thinned paint flow properly out of the brush, and holds an excellent point. There are a number of options to get a good Kolinsky brush:

As for brands, you have options:

  • Winsor and Newton Series 7. Well known for quality and value among miniature painters. This is the gauge by which other high end brushes are judged. - #2, #0
  • da Vinci. A little more but you can get a nice Travel Series for similar money to their traditional handled brushes. Helps protect the tip while in storage or traveling to the store to paint. They run a little smaller/thinner than W&N Series 7. - #2, #1. This is always the first brush my better half reaches for, if she's not feeling it that day though she'll pull just about any other Kolinsky brush from her collection.
  • On the cheaper side is ZEM. Had very good luck with them. Good companion for the W&N7 as I use ZEMs when painting metallics as they can be a bit rougher on brushes. They do have some ware to them after dozens of models compared to the more expensive W&N or da Vinci. But don't need to be thrown in the trash like the cheap synthetics. Brush soap does wonders. Set of size #10/0, #0, #2, & #4. Or Individually. These tend to be the first brush I reach for... since I gave the other brushes as a gift. I try to stay to my cheap brushes... If I'm not feeling it that day then I will grab a W&N7.
  • Other Brands of Kolinsky fiber brushes I own but don't have as much experience with... Raphael, Escoda, Connoisseur.
  • There's also Citadel's own Artificer line... They are also Kolinsky fiber brushes so need to be cleaned regularly. I have not tried them but many suggest they are similar quality as the W&N Series 7. Just a little more expensive.
  • When friends come over to learn how to paint up thier board game or DnD minis... I hand them a pouch an assortment of Army Painter Wargamer Brushes or Winsor and Newton synthetic Cotman so they don't need to learn on walmart brushes, but don't risk our Kolinskys.

    Then you'll want to keep it all clean with "The Masters" Brush Soap and Conditioner. Cleaning regularly will make a big difference brush life. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009RRT9Y/ ... Keeping brushes freshly rinsed in a basin can help prevent the bad buildup of dried paint to begin with. This kind of thing... https://www.amazon.com/Loew-Cornell-Brush-Tub-II/dp/B0019IKYU8/ or really any sturdy cup you have around that won't tip over easily.

    NOTE - You'll want to use cheaper brushes for Drybrushing, it can just murder brushes. Either walmart/craft store brushes you can toss, or just cheaper quality brushes made for it, like Army Painter or Citadels drybrush lines.

    As for paint... I use Army Painter and Citadel. Citadel primarily for anything warhammer to get color matches. Army painter for some washes, and anything else I paint (boardgame and DnD minis). Rither now I are only using Vallejo for Airbrush paints and a few premium metallics.

    -----------------

    There's a great guide that got me and my other half started over on the /r/minipainting subreddit. https://www.reddit.com/r/minipainting/comments/50hd3a/rminipainting_buying_guide_hd_remastered/


u/dgscott · 3 pointsr/Warhammer40k

I strongly encourage you to use acrylics for the majority of your painting. There are some enamels that are good for metallics, but generally acrylics are superior for 28mm mini painting for a large number of reasons, and are also safer to use.

Also, DON'T use enamel paints with a nice brush like a Raphael brush, they will ruin those brushes. You can get cheap synthetic brushes. Also, you can't properly thin enamel paints with water, you need special spirits. Another reason you should switch to acrylic. Vallejo Game Color has an excellent starter set I recommend. That and a couple GW washes (nuln oil and reikland fleshshade), and make yourself a wet pallet, and you should be off to a much better start.

I'd likewise recommend Raphael kolinsky 8404, Rosemary Co., or Windsor & Newton series 7 brushes for acrylic paints. Keep in mind there is no standardized brush measurement system, so one company's size 1 is going to be different than another ones. That said, I'd recommend a size 2 Windsor & Newton or size 1 Raphael.

Also, a lot of people find they have more stability when using they have a handle or some other thing they can stick the mini to (like a large pill bottle or citadel handle) in terms of detail work. Personally, I get the most stability from keeping my elbows on the table and holding the mini by not only the base but also the top (but you gotta wear a latex glove in your holding hand for that otherwise you'll rub your paint off).

Other recommendations:

  1. Watching/listening to some of the pros on Youtube talk about the craft

  2. Practice, practice, practice

  3. Patience
u/dendr1te · 3 pointsr/minipainting

Fresh from Amazon and it looks like this.

u/termhn · 1 pointr/ArtistLounge

This. Just getting new supplies is often just as motivating as a tablet I think. A nice new pad of paper, a few nice new pens, maybe even a brush or g-pen and ink if you're feeling adventurous (definitely exciting, but possibly messy).

The Copic marker pad is some nice paper. Paper's a lot about personal preference though, whatever you get go to your local art store the next time and have her help choose one with you https://www.amazon.com/Copic-Markers-Alcohol-Marker-Sheets/dp/B000Q7G7S6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481785351&sr=8-1&keywords=copic+marker+sketch+book

For a brush, I'd recommend one of these for sure: https://www.amazon.com/Winsor-Newton-Kolinsky-Sable-Watercolor/dp/B000YQG9ZK

For ink, this one is great but messy container: https://www.amazon.com/Speedball-2-Ounce-India-Super-Black/dp/B0007ZJ8TM/ref=pd_sim_201_5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=DQKJEH36V4PAJVXBXQAC

A G-nib: https://www.amazon.com/Zebra-Comic-Model-Chrome-PG-6B-C-K/dp/B006CQW428/ref=pd_sim_201_5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=MKPZYS4GTKG4MPMV5BKF
plus nib holder: https://www.amazon.com/Tachikawa-Comic-Holder-Model-T-40/dp/B000UF2774/ref=pd_sim_229_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=JQ1R1E1GERQQ20KEYEVF is more traditional japanese style than a brush but I personally don't like it as much

And a few Copic markers would also be awesome, they're expensive but refillable and the best on the market IMO. A Skin tone set: https://www.amazon.com/Copic-Markers-6-Piece-Sketch-Tones/dp/B004XR92EG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1481785568&sr=8-2&keywords=copic+markers

Plus maybe a floral set: https://www.amazon.com/Copic-Marker-Sketch-Floral-Favorites/dp/B005NB4IZ4/ref=pd_sim_201_5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=JG9YQ4AVBM15NPXW4XRW would provide a very good base as far as markers go

u/MajorRobin · 1 pointr/SWlegion

Just to check before I order are these brushes ones that would work? And I should order size 2, 0, 000? Assuming size 2 is 2mm?

Edit: then again just noticed 0 and 000 are out of stock.