Reddit reviews X-Long 36" Flex-Cable Pick-Up Tool 4-Finger Claw End Retriever Snake

Looks like a perfect candidate for this.

You need one of these -

https://www.amazon.com/Flex-Cable-4-Finger-Retriever-Pro-Tools/dp/B006ZEOXJY/

I gotchu fam
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006ZEOXJY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1465364461&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=flexible+grabber&dpPl=1&dpID=41YUw%2BMsc3L&ref=plSrch

A shop vac to suck them out?

Or maybe a parts grabber like this?

http://smile.amazon.com/Flex-Cable-4-Finger-Retriever-Pro-Tools/dp/B006ZEOXJY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1462407907&sr=8-2&keywords=part+retriever

Shouldn't cause a problem, but you can get them out with some help from a friend. The dash cover that has the venting on it probably comes off. Then use a flex line pick up tool and have a friend look into the cavity through the outside of the windshield to direct your movement with the pickup tool until you get a hold of them and fish them out.

I dropped the top of a light sensor down there when I installed a HUD in my grand prix, and it took a little patience and about 20 minutes to get it out using the above method.

Edit: use this.

Get a flex retriever claw. Mechanics use them to retrieve screws, parts and tools that they drop in tight places while working on machinery. Most any auto parts store should carry them and they are inexpensive. Here's one on Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/X-Long-Flex-Cable-Pick-Up-4-Finger-Retriever/dp/B006ZEOXJY

They sure do. I had one growing up that was about the size of a quarter when it was open and thinner thank a pen. Had a button at the butt of it that would open and close the claw

edit-Check it

https://www.amazon.com/Flex-Cable-4-Finger-Retriever-Pro-Tools/dp/B006ZEOXJY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1484438083&sr=8-3&keywords=drain+claw

I know you weren't posting asking for repair advice, but I'll offer some anyway. Is the plastic piece small enough to come through the bulb hole? If so then maybe you can grab it with a grabber and pull it out. I mention it because I've used one of those plus a paper towel to clean the inside of headlights before.

Not sure if link are allowed but check the local tool or auto part store for something like this.

X-Long 36" Flex-Cable Pick-Up Tool 4-Finger Claw End Retriever Snake https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006ZEOXJY/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_YodRCb69Z60W9

Or loop an open slip knot onto a piece of wood and guide into the phone? Then pull tight and bring phone with it.

Tool

Something like this?

This is the tool you needed (or maybe a shorter version).

I believe I'd spend a little time fishing around with one of these before doing anything else.

https://www.amazon.com/X-Long-Flex-Cable-Pick-Up-4-Finger-Retriever/dp/B006ZEOXJY

It is the newest kindle, yes. It's also $220, as opposed to $80. But if there were a more elegant solution to push a physical button from a few feet away, I'd be open to it. I've imagined some sort of modification of a telescopic claw tool.

> No Way! I also have a 2011 Honda CRZ EX. I'm installing a Kenwood DDX0703S next week so maybe you can help me avoid some headaches with the install.

Happy to help however I can. crzforum.com is also an AMAZING resource; about the best on the internet for CRZ info.

> The Metra 70-1730 Wire Harness I bought seems to have a subwoffer RCA but the instructions say not to use it even though my CRZ has a factory sub. Do I really not need to hook up the sub RCA?

Correct. The CRZ's sub is wired into the rear channel. The front channel is two speakers and two tweeters, the rear is two speakers and the sub.

> I bought a Maestro ADS-MSW for my steering wheel controls. What does the RR give you over the ADS-MSW? Just gauge information?

Just gauges AFAIK.

> The Maestro instructions say I need to splice into a green wire connected to the bluetooth HFL module behind my glovebox in order to use my steering wheel call and end call buttons. Did you do that? If so how difficult was it?

Yes. Very easy. You need to remove the panel under the glove box. It has clips at the top and tabs sit in slots at the back. Disconnect the floor light and put it aside. The HFL is between the passenger footwell and the outer shell of the car, toward the glove box. Disconnect the harness and tap the green wire. I'm using these for all the taps I did in the car. They are VERY easy, solderless and making great connections. Can't recommend them enough.

Also, make sure you have a dumb little grabber tool, like this. I bought mine at Home Depot for $2 while getting butt connectors and it made routing the wire for the HFL a breeze.

>Where did you place the Kenwood microphone in your CRZ?

If you look at the picture, you can see the Kenwood mic below my radio. The factory mic cannot be reused without great effort, and if you do wire it up it has no noise cancelling and sounds like shit. So don't.

You'll also notice a USB plug dangling down at the factory location. The factory USB can't be reused, and I didn't want to have the Kenwood USB line that is hard wired to the unit fished through anything, so here's what I did: I pulled the factory USB cable and its little grommet into the dash and zip tied it off so it doesn't bang around. Then, I ran a 3' Monoprice USB male/female extender cable through the hole the factory USB goes through and zip tied it secure inside the dash. This way, if it ever wears out I replace a $2 cable and not my $500 radio. This also has the benefit of making installation/removal of the radio really easy, which is already coming in handy as I prep to install a backup camera.

>How did you do the wiring? I've never soldered anything before and am thinking about buying some Posi-Twists and Posi-Taps to do all of this.

Positwists and taps are AWESOME, but they're also expensive. I'd recommend you pick up some 20 awg butt connectors or crimp caps (whichever) and a wire stripper/crimper tool just because they're cheap.

Here's what I did: I wired up my radio harness and anything else that was fairly mobile with butt connectors at my desk, making sure to tape off any wires I wasn't using so they were out of my way. Then, I saved my Posi connectors for the connections that HAVE to be made in the car (OBD2, the HFL cable, the ground wires)

>About the DDX9702S: How responsive is the touchscreen? I'm weary about the resistive screen but couldn't justify the $200+ to upgrade to the DDX9903S with capacitive screen.

It's great. It's obviously not a cap touch screen, but it's also not a Palm Pilot. It's responsive enough, precise enough, and all around "good enough" that I wouldn't spend the extra $200 either.

One more tip: When you're wiring this up, wire the parking brake sensor wire into your grounds. Do that and you can watch video while driving.

There's a few products you can try.

First, I'd try a grabber. I have one so I can retreive things I drop in the engine bay, or behind the couch, etc. Assuming the clog isn't too deep, this may work. Then again, you may have trouble pulling a clog back up since you have limited space.

They also make narrow snakes. Again, depending on how big of a clog, you may have trouble actually pulling it back out of the drain, but maybe this can help break it up.

I'd use chemicals as a last resort. Since yours is draining slowly, it may work, but if you ever get a complete clog, I'd steer clear. If the chemical doesn't work, then you have a tub full of a caustic mix.

How far in is it? Do you have one of those snake claws? I am not sure of the exact name, but you press on the end and a little claw comes out the other end, it's used for retrieving nuts and bolts in an engine. If it's bikini padding it should come out easily with this type of device.

http://www.amazon.com/X-Long-Flex-Cable-Pick-Up-4-Finger-Retriever/dp/B006ZEOXJY

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006ZEOXJY/ref=mp_s_a_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1511336561&sr=8-15&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=grabber&dpPl=1&dpID=41x3NwrabiL&ref=plSrch