Reddit reviews X-Tronic Model #3020-XTS Digital Display Soldering Iron Station - 10 Minute Sleep Function, Auto Cool Down, C/F Switch, Ergonomic Soldering Iron, Solder Holder, Brass Tip Cleaner with Cleaning Flux

Solder

Iron

At 725F

Op-amps: the TL072 is one of the most widely used, it's cheap, and it works fine in most situations. It has two small drawbacks for some applications: it needs a dual supply, at least -/+5V, and it's not a "rail to rail" op-amp, so it needs some supply headroom above and below the signals you plan to put through it. Some other op-amps can do rail-to-rail with a single +3V supply, for instance, which makes them potentially easier to use with a modern low voltage MCU (some Arduinos/Teensys/etc.). But if you've got the power supply set up properly, the TL072 will be great.

Audio Out: You'll need to match voltage levels and have some sort of output driver.

If you're going to a line out (like to a mixer or stereo receiver) you want to aim for a max of about +/- 1V and you can use any old op-amp to buffer and level-shift the signal on the way out. Here's a handy worksheet for designing the level shifter.

I haven't done a headphone driver; I know different headphones have vastly different specs, and my research here has been really confusing! I do believe typical op-amps won't provide enough output current to reliably drive headphones, though -- traditionally something like an LM386 is used.

Assorted parts: If you're experimenting, just buy a big kit package of resistors, one of ceramic caps, one of electrolytic caps -- like 200-to-1000 piece kits, 10 to 20 each of 20-40 different values.

Transistors, get a handful of 2n3904 and 2n3906, those are general purpose BJTs in NPN and PNP configuration. Also some 2n5457 N-channel JFETs. 1N4148 diodes are fine for all the low-voltage signal stuff.

Check out Sparkfun or Adafruit for breadboardable switches, buttons, and other goodies. Adafruit tends to be a tiny bit more user friendly and Sparkfun a little more towards the I'm-gonna-build-a-flying-killer-robot-in-my-garage crowd. Both of them offer breadboard and jumper wire kits. I love these precut-and-color-coded-for-length wires for keeping breadboards super-tidy; others prefer the freeform jumper wires.

You're gonna want a soldering iron soon. A low-end temperature-controlled soldering station is IMO worth the money over a dumb iron; I've got an X-Tronic 3020 but other people swear by Hakko. Pick up a set of finer chisel tips than the iron comes with. A big silicone soldering mat, QuadHands, desoldering wick will come in handy too if you've got the budget for them.

I have this. It was on sale on newegg for like $20 at one point, so I was like 'yes plz' and snagged one. Really good iron IMO, I've had it for 2 years and it's done...

• 3 board builds (all 60%)
  
• 6 desolders (5 fullsize, 1 60%)
  
• A work project (soldered 10 joints on 150 PCBs)
  
  It's a fuckin' tank tbh. The spool thing it comes with is trash though, I threw it out immediately.

Just say no to big bulky solder guns. Those are for commercial wiring jobs in buildings, not for delicate things like guitar wiring. For the same money (or less) you can pick up a nice Hakko FX888D on Amazon, or for less you can get this decent little xtronic, or one of those neat little knockoff Hakko T12 units

XTronic 3020 with adjustable temp.

Here's the soldering iron that I use: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DGZFSNE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I don't know my way around soldering irons, so can't really speak to its quality vs. any other iron. But, its lowest temperature is 200, which has worked really well for me during mini cleanup.

Soldering Iron - either

• the TS100, which will serve you well in the field as well.
  
• an X-Tronic 3020, which is the closest thing I've found to a Weller without the cost, and it fits Hakko tips.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DGZFSNE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This has been awesome!!!
The reviews are extremely favorable and I have to agree. I never have burnt solder, it is fast and precise. Anyone that has used mine gets one for themselves.

I've been happy with my $50 X-Tronic 3020-XTS. I had a $8 RadioShack soldering iron before and this one is like 100x better. The heat up time is like 10 seconds.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DGZFSNE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_S4BpzbHS13342

I would probably get this one if i had 50 dollars to spend on a soldering iron https://www.amazon.com/X-Tronic-3020-XTS-Digital-Display-Soldering/dp/B01DGZFSNE/ref=lp_13837391_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1487732308&sr=1-2

Shockingly, mine is a cheapo unit as well. It works pretty well, but nothing to write home about

No, that's overkill for what I do.

I since won a hackaday contest and got an amazing Weller soldering tweezers and iron. It's not fancy like what you posted (although if I did a lot of repair, I'd absolutely want that preheat and hot air) but it's so well designed it's never disappointed me. With only the one soldering iron, it'd be around $250 I think.

I did more teaching on cheaper, $50 soldering stations like this and I almost never can tell the difference. I recommend anybody getting into soldering pay around $50, doing a bit of research to make sure you don't get the worst $50 iron possible. Unless you really dive deep into the smallest, or most tricky components, anything adjustable that's significantly over 50 Watts (certainly not 25!!!) feels about the same as any other.

X-Tronic Model #3020-XTS Digital Display Soldering Iron Station - 10 Minute Sleep Function, Auto Cool Down, C/F Switch, Ergonomic Soldering Iron, Solder Holder, Brass Tip Cleaner with Cleaning Flux https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DGZFSNE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_O6hHAbF8GP2MB

Would this suffice? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DGZFSNE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_10?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A16WH6ABVV2A4V

Go for it!

I used:

• X-Tronic Soldering Iron Station: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DGZFSNE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• Engineer SS-02 Solder Sucker: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002MJMXD4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• Indium Wire Solder: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003AYJWSY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• Spudger: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DGNCNR0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• Krytox lube: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MWLD61A/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  Honestly the most important thing IMO is having a good solder sucker. The Engineer is pretty good. I've broken a few cheap ones and it's pretty annoying to be half-way through a project and have it break.
  
  The Masterkeys Pro is a pretty straight forward keyboard. Fairly standard key sizes, easy to take a part (especially with a spudger). The solder they use is a pain to remove though. Just take your time and be careful not to damage the PCB like I did.

> Can you recommend an inexpensive soldering iron? I don't wanna a super cheap one but, I probably won't use it enough to justify $100.

Have a look at this one and check out the reviews

https://www.amazon.com/X-Tronic-3020-XTS-Digital-Display-Soldering/dp/B01DGZFSNE/

That's actually a good ideal TBH as you run the risk of damaging the PCB way more than damaging the switches should things go south. Then if you end up lifting a few pads in the de-soldering or soldering process, you can always just jump them as long as you don't burn too many up. Worst case you fry a $20 KB which would suck, but not be a huge waste or anything for the experience you with de-soldering/soldering TBH.

I would clip & lube the stabilizers while you have it all apart, I'm sure those could use the help from that bad. Also most likely you will need to de-solder & remove the LEDs to get the original switches out so you can get enough in one color to cover the whole board & solve the rainbow LED problem while your at it too!

A few tips though, the lead free solder used on these mass produced boards has a pretty high melting point & is tough to get to flow. I highly recommend getting a cheap de-soldering iron like this or this for doing it, also solder wick is a must too. Then any joints that don't come completely clean on the first try, re-solder with leaded iron & repeat the de-soldering process on them. That usually helps to get any remaining lead free solder to move.

The other thing is to get yourself a temp controlled soldering iron. If you plan on getting into building boards I suggest something fairly decent like the Hakko FX888D, it's a little pricey but well worth it if you will using it alot. If you plan on only doing a few projects here & there, you could get away something a little cheaper like this. Anyways GL with the project & I hope to see a success post sooner than later! :)

X-Tronic

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DGZFSNE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_M3yVAb9P6KCXB

I personally bought my self the X-Tronic https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DGZFSNE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hjyVAbP2MTKXZ

It is fantastic and includes everything I need

I recently did my first build and used the Xtronic solder station. It worked flawlessly. Was very tempnatable, comfortable to use, and hits a great value price point.

X-Tronic Model #3020-XTS Digital Display Soldering Iron Station - 10 Minute Sleep Function, Auto Cool Down, C/F Switch, Ergonomic Soldering Iron, Solder Holder, Brass Tip Cleaner with Cleaning Flux https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DGZFSNE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_x232Db22N3N86

I bought the Wizard and I LOVE IT! It's plenty of power to start with some very solid components for the price. I wanted to build one myself as well... But then I found the Wizard.

I'll give you a list of the things that I bought along side the Wizard.

1. RunCam Swift 2 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MY9IFJU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
   
   
2. Quanum Cyclops V1 Headset (about 35$ on HobbyKing). The Quanum Cyclops is a wonderful headset for the price. The thing you need to watch out for when looking at cheap headsets is whether or not you get static or a bluescreen when you start losing signal. These headsets give you static. That is most certainly what you want. (https://hobbyking.com/en_us/quanum-cyclops-fpv-goggles.html)
   
   
3. Two clover leaf antennas (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M9IER0E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
   
   
4. x3 3s batteries. (The other great thing about the Wizard is it's 4s ready for when you are ready for more power).
   
   
5. Keenstone UP100AC LiPo Charger. (https://www.amazon.com/Keenstone-UP100AC-Battery-Minimum-Balance/dp/B01JV826I0/ref=sr_1_1?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1492193093&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=Lipo+charger&psc=1)
   
   
6. Parallel charging board (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UBOAXEI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
   
   
7. XTronic Soldering Station (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DGZFSNE/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
   
   
8. FrSky XSR Receiver (https://www.amazon.com/FrSky-2-4GHz-Receiver-Output-Support/dp/B01HZB6XTI/ref=sr_1_1?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1492193206&sr=1-1&keywords=FrSky+XSR)
   
   
9. FrSky Taranis X9D Plus (https://www.amazon.com/FrSky-Taranis-2-4ghz-ACCST-Transmitter/dp/B01D7QHB9G/ref=sr_1_2?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1492193250&sr=1-2&keywords=taranis)

Your bottlehead kit should include any wire that you will need (I made a Crack+Speedball).

I used this soldering station and I was very happy with its performance. The station base is plastic, btw. X-Tronic Model #3020-XTS Digital Display Soldering Iron Station - 10 Minute Sleep Function, Auto Cool Down, C/F Switch, Ergonomic Soldering Iron, Solder Holder, Brass Tip Cleaner with Cleaning Flux https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DGZFSNE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Z2VKBb9AR32K0

I used this solder. It worked well. Pretty large roll, however. If you’ll never solder anything again, this would be overkill. Kester 24-6040-0053 Solder Roll, 66... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00068IJQI?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Yes, a soldering station will give you better overall performance. The issue is at your current budget I can't recommend any particular brand. I own a Hakko FX-888 that I'm in love with, but that's around $95. If you can swing it, that'll be a purchase that will last you the rest of your life with proper care. The cheaper stations I have no experience with, and the quality control is what I'd be concerned about.

https://www.amazon.com/X-Tronic-3020-XTS-Digital-Display-Soldering/dp/B01DGZFSNE/

This guy looks decent, but like I said I've got no personal experience with it.

To reiterate, you will get 100% better performance with a station compared to the TS80. If portability isn't an issue then go for a station. You'll probably have a better time getting an assortment of tips for the station compared to the TS80 as well.

I'm using this guy:

https://smile.amazon.com/X-Tronic-3020-XTS-Digital-Display-Soldering/dp/B01DGZFSNE/ref=pd_sim_469_7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=88Z82G4JR5F01GQ5BAFE

And that same solder you're looking at.

X-Tronic 3020 XTS

Fixpoint EP5

Cheaper Fixpoint Variant

I'm using this cheap one myself, got it as a gift. I personally like it but I'm not an expert.

https://smile.amazon.com/Soldering-Including-Temperature-Desoldering-Anti-static/dp/B01MR65RJD/ref=sr_1_11?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1495560179&sr=1-11&keywords=soldering+iron this one comes with everything you'll need and then some and gets good reviews.

I have this one https://smile.amazon.com/X-Tronic-3020-XTS-Digital-Display-Soldering/dp/B01DGZFSNE/ref=sr_1_14?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1495560179&sr=1-14&keywords=soldering+iron and absolutely love it, but it doesn't cost a bit more.

Looking for a soldering iron, between these two, any suggestions? (or other irons <= that price)

​

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DGZFSNE/ref=psdc_13837391_t2_B000AS28UC

​

https://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-80-Watt-Soldering-Station/dp/B0006PYP82/ref=sr_1_3?crid=32YA0P77ZHRAC&keywords=weller%2Bsoldering%2Biron&qid=1562086372&s=gateway&sprefix=weller%2Bsoldering%2B%2Caps%2C176&sr=8-3&th=1

Fair call. I would never have thought of making my own until GreatScott did a YouTube video of it, basically buying a great spare tip and reengineering the rest. His end result was a bit marginal though, see for yourself.

https://youtu.be/UvH49nzpJts

Apologies on mobile so can't make link tags pretty.

I'll do some googling on the models you mention. I guess my dissatisfaction with Jaycar came from comparing the TS1620 ($72nzd for their basic option, 40w with no digital display) with the first option that came up from a Google search, an X-Tronic 3020-XTS (link below) which was 50 USD for 75w with digital display and what seemed like a sturdier build. I know it's apples and oranges, and I have no idea whether X-Tronic (which I've never heard of till now) is a better brand than the jaycar house brand. To be honest I wouldn't be surprised if they both came out of the same factory in China but that's just this century for you.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DGZFSNE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_kuqHAbM58198J

Not saying that the X-Tronic is a better deal - without a better gauge of quality that's impossible to say. Just trying to explain where I got the impression - rightly or wrongly - that $120+ for a mid range station wasn't necessarily great value.

Choose my SOLDERING IRON for me

Option A

Option B

There are plenty of digital irons that don't have convoluted interfaces. The entire purpose of a digital iron is temp. control, not buttons and presets. Companies simply started adding that stuff because the cost is negligible and they get to plaster the box with "additional features".

Analog irons are awful and offer nothing in the way of temperature control.

That said, your Hakko is a phenomenal iron and it sounds like you're the exception rather than the rule as the Hakko FX-888D is probably the best-reviewed soldering iron of all time.

If you want a digital iron a little more your speed, I would recommend the 3020XTS as suggested elsewhere in this thread. For $50, you can't go wrong.

I got one question I see that the Hakko fx888d is 100$ in amazon compared to 60$ in Aliexpress. Should I go for the one in Aliexpress or the one in Amazon? Also which type of composition is the best for the solder?

Also I found something similar do you have any experience with this soldering station?

I live in LATM so I use a proxy to bring stuff from the US.