Reddit reviews Yeast: The Practical Guide to Beer Fermentation (Brewing Elements)
We found 84 Reddit comments about Yeast: The Practical Guide to Beer Fermentation (Brewing Elements). Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
Brewers Publications
A few thoughts:
This will get you started
This guy is pretty incredible. I've been talking with him, and he's helping guide me through the process a little. I plan on doing an exchange with him if I come out with anything viable.
This is the next step
I haven't read this yet, but it's on the docket.
Past those, you start to get into some serious microbiology texts that I'll leave my sister (who just graduated from Cornell University in biology, with a focus on fungi) and just ask her for advice.
World-class mead can be made in 3 months time. Almost every one of our meads at Schramm's are made within 3 months, and bottled in the 4th month (with the exception of our dry melomel 'Blackberry Sec' - this one gets an additional ML fermentation - and our cyser 'Apple' - this one is made by not pitching any yeast or nutrients at all, and ferments spontaneously over the course of 9-10 months). The highest-rated mead in the world is made in plastic primary fermentation buckets for a month (at ambient temperatures), followed by a month in secondary on glass, followed by another month in tertiary on glass. So I know it can be done by you, at home, without special equipment.
My best suggestion for you would be to understand your yeast: for a standard strength mead use 71B-1122 (low nitrogen requirement), ferment in the range of 61-65 deg F, rehydrate your yeast using Go-Ferm, and use nutrient additions of Fermaid-K (or Fermdaid-O) and DAP (diammonium phosphate) in proper amounts for the first 4 days after lag (as detailed in the January/February issue of Zymurgy). If you don't use fruit or root-spices, then you should look into adding something to buffer the rather rapid change in pH that occurs during fermentation, and potassium carbonate or potassium bicarbonate can do the trick for you here, too. This provides a source of nutrient as well as a pH buffer (something that honey lacks, unlike beer wort or grape wine musts). Above all, study, study, study and remember this axiom: quality in, quality out. You will get better, faster results with quality ingredients. There are a lot of free articles available online but there are also some great books out there that will help you understand yeast health and nutrition. I recommend the book 'Yeast' by Chris White and Jamil Zainasheff, and there are some other mead-centric books I can point you to.
Yeast: The Practical Guide to Beer Fermentation is a good one.
Yeast: The Practical Guide to Beer Fermentation
by Chris White is a good one
I get my data from textbooks. Also this one spends a great deal of time talking about dry yeast. You should read it sometime.
Yeast: The Practical Guide to Beer Fermentation (Brewing Elements) https://www.amazon.com/dp/0937381969/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YpayybWV88PXN
In Yeast, the authors specifically advocate in favor of raising the fermentation temp into the 70s towards the end of the fermentation. Essentially, the yeast have produced all of the esters and whatnot that they're going to produce in the primary phase (usually about a week). From there, increasing the temp just encourages them to eat more sugar (increasing attenuation) and eat their own byproduct (potentially actually reducing off flavors quicker).
You should be fine.
http://www.amazon.com/Yeast-Practical-Fermentation-Brewing-Elements/dp/0937381969/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1398438574&sr=8-5&keywords=yeast
The long answer requires a PHD in microbiology and about 6 hours worth of lecturing. See: Yeast: The Practical Guide to Beer Fermentation. Note: the book is not at all "practical" as advertised unless you have a PHD.
The short answer is, if you do not initially pitch enough yeast at the start, the yeast will be overworked, stressed out, and kill itself before it has a chance to grow into more yeast. If you pitch an adequate amount of yeast then there are enough cells around to comfortably handle the workload and continue having an orgy in your beer.
I've read Designing Great Beers and it's a great resource as a style guide, but it leans much more towards the empirical side when it comes to explaining things. If you're looking for something a little more scientific and data-driven there are some other really good options.
Suggestions:
/ Yeast
/ Malt
/ Hops - Very specific and science driven focus on each element.
Always do a streak plate first to get isolated colonies. Then aseptically transfer 8-10 of the most uniform colonies to 5 mL sterile media, then 50 mL, then 500 mL allowing for 24 hrs of growth in each volume. The exact volume isn't super critical, but increasing each by a factor of 10 is typical.
Highly recommend the Yeast book from Brewing Elements series:
https://www.amazon.com/Yeast-Practical-Fermentation-Brewing-Elements/dp/0937381969
On my bookshelf:
Well, you found a great spot here already! Also Brulosophy, John Palmer, American Homebrewers Association, Homebrew Talk Forums are all good starting points for websites.
For books, definitely How to Brew is recommended (there may be a newer edition out if I recall), followed by Brewing Classic Styles, Water, Yeast, and, of course, American Sour Beers written by a user on this form by the name of u/oldsock who also has a great site.
For now, work on the process of making beer. Take a look a little later on into something called Beer Smith as it will really help you with dialing recipes in.
How to Brew - John Palmer
Designing Great Beers - Ray Daniels
Brewing Classic Styles - Jamil Zainasheff and John Palmer
Brew Like a Monk - Stan Hieronymus
Clone Brews - Tess and Mark Szamatulski
Yeast - Jamil Zainasheff and Chris White
Beer Captured - Tess and Mark Szamatulski
Radical Brewing - Randy Mosher
Brewer's Association Guide to Starting Your Own Brewery - Randy Mosher
Yeast, I think.
For reusing and maintianing commercial yeasts there are a few links in the sidebar, also the book Yeast by Jamil Zainasheff and Chris White. For cultivating wild yeast, a good place to start would be the King's Coolship episode of Brewing TV...or just about anything else Jeremy King has written in blogs.
Throw extreme brewing away... or use it as a big coaster! All it is a glossy showcase of his ego. Just kidding, but not really... It doesn't really have much useful information in it. The others you mention are the books I learned to brew with and refer to the most. I hear Jamil's and Chris' new book "Yeast: The Practical Guide to Beer Fermentation" is awesome.
If you really want the "sciency" aspect of attenuation and flocculation get yourself a copy of Yeast by Jamil Zainasheff
Excellent read though it forced me to brush up on my cellular biology a little more than I expected.
Throw hops at it.
Like absurd amounts.
Think of ludicrous amounts and triple that. Then every single addition but a small bit of clean bitterness FWA, is made at the flame out or later. Your fermenation hop schedule is three times what your flame out schedule was, and you dry hop it twice.
I'm being sarcastic. But hop usage these days are insane on certain styles.
This series:
Water
Hops
Malt
Yeast
Oh, remember to enjoy it.
Principles Of Brewing Science
Yeast and also Water, Malt and Hops, a very informative series.
Also Oxford Companion to Beer is a great reference to look up general questions or terms.
Reading Yeast by Chris White and Jamil Zainasheff right now.
Claim is pitching directly can result in 50+% death while rehydrating can revive up to 100% of the dry cells. Pitching directly into wort means high levels of sugar/hop acid/nutrients may enter the yeast causing it to die. 50% death may result in extra autolysis flavors. Tap water is fine (250-500ppm hardness) but they also recommend rehydrating with a bit of GoFerm (vs. using malt extract or sugar) if you want.
I noticed you already pitched, but for future readers: Start between 95-105F and then carefully work your way down to wort temp before pitching to avoid shocking.
Different yeasts produce different phenols and esters. Read a bit here: http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter8.html
But honestly this is a huge question. Somebody could probably write a doctorate paper on the subject.
Here's an entire book on Yeast by Jamil and White (of White Labs).
I think you would benefit form this.
http://www.amazon.com/Yeast-Practical-Fermentation-Brewing-Elements/dp/0937381969
http://www.amazon.com/Yeast-Practical-Fermentation-Brewing-Elements/dp/0937381969
Pretty good read I your interested in yeast and the first chapter says they didn't really even know why they beer fermented but to make them drunk they needed to make it happen. It was thought to be a chemical reaction with no living organisms involved.
IIRC from Yeast (White/Zainasheff) –
I recall W&Z say that plates are good for isolating cultures but not as effective for long-term storage as other methods. Slants & stabs will be better for storage and roughly the same for propagation into a fresh starter, I'd think.
In most cases your biggest problems with long-term storage are infection and viability. I've had good viability results with a refrigerated starter even after several months, as long as I stored the yeast under the starter in the jar, as opposed to having a jar of yeast slurry.
This book will be a great resource to you, there are also entries in the series for Water, Hops, and Malt. I'm working through the Hops book right now, and while its an interesting read, it probably won't be too helpful in a technical sense. Malt I dont know about, but Water is worth a read for sure for whoever is working on that subject.
http://www.amazon.com/Yeast-Practical-Fermentation-Brewing-Elements/dp/0937381969/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459272811&sr=8-1&keywords=beer+yeast+book
Designing Great Beers
Water
Hops
Malt
Yeast
A good profile for WLP 001 California Ale (Wyeast 1056 / Safale US-05) is to pitch around 67F-68F, then monitor the heat and keep the beer temperature (not just the ambient air) around 68F-69F for the first 80% of fermentation. It can help to bump a couple degrees to 70F-71F for that last 20% to ensure you finish fermentation completely and don't get stuck with a few extra gravity points to go.
General Fermentation Temperature tips:
There are some great shows by the Brewing Network on this (itunes podcast or get it from their website) - Jamil does a great breakdown of WLP-001 fermentation profile on the "Jamil Show" about Robust Porters (towards the end of the episode, maybe 3/4 of the way through). They also have a fantastic episode of "Brew Strong" all about fermentation temperature control and why it matters.
Enough about them... First off you want to keep in mind that during the first couple days of a fermentation the temperature will be elevated by a few degrees by the heat generated by the yeast themselves, so if you're fermenting a beer with ambient air at 64F, the beer may be around 67F or 68F. Problems can arise on day 3 or 4, once you're 75% done with the fermentation and that heat source begins to fade; the beer will drop back down to ambient temperature at that point and the yeast may decide to go to sleep early. This is a major cause of incomplete fermentations and can result in a beer that's too sweet at best or create bottle bombs at worst (as that extra sugar slowwwly ferments later)
On the other hand, if you go warmer than around 72F-73F (the temperature of the BEER, not the AIR) then you can start to generate unwanted esters and fusel alcohols. This is particularly impactful on stronger than normal beers (watch out when doing anything over 1.070)
The biggest impact investment i've made to increase my beer's quality and consistency (on par with going all grain) was without a doubt my fermentation fridge. I have a basic dorm fridge that fits a carboy, with a temperature controller hooked up to the fridge's power supply. It allows me to control fermentation at all steps to within about 1/2 a degree, keeping it cool during the initial activity and warming it up at the end to help it finish. There are plenty of resources around the internet if you're interested in doing something like this; i would HIGHLY recommend it.
Edit for some really good knowledge on yeast and fermentation, i'd highly recommend the book "Yeast" by Jamil Zainasheff and Chris White (White Labs)
A great book that would answer all your questions is:http://www.amazon.com/Yeast-Practical-Fermentation-Brewing-Elements/dp/0937381969/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462387187&sr=8-1&keywords=Yeast+book
But I'll give a couple quick responses that hit some highlights:
What is the difference between yeasts? Each yeast strain is a different organism. Each one is going to impart its own flavor profile. Some yeasts leave a lot of flavor behind in the form of esters, phenols, etc (like a saison or belgian yeast). Others will leave little behind and allow the hops or malt to shine (cal ale, us-05). Along with the flavor profile they add, some are more voracious eaters than others so certain strains will give you a lower finishing gravity (san diego). Others may end up more sweet (some english yeasts). Some like to ferment warmer and others cooler. Many times, the yeast determines your beer style more than the grain bill. You LHBS or the yeast manufacturer has literature telling you the yeast profile. Like what temperatures it likes, gravities it may ferment to, flocculation characteristics, and more.
difference between dry yeasts (Safale US-05, Nottingham, etc) and liquid yeasts: Dry yeasts are cheaper to manufacture, ship, and store. They are not recommended for propogating/reusing but they are cheap enough and easy enough to handle that it doesn't matter. Liquid yeasts are better fresh. They can be propogated. THere are more liquid yeasts available than dry. I suggest you go with the yeast that best suits the style you are brewing and not worry about the form it comes in (unless the reasons above impact you).
is low flocculation ever a good thing? Sure. Think about what kind of flavor and appearance you are going for. If you are looking for a beer like a heff, low flocculation may be desired because you want the yeast flavor to be perceived in a beer and it is not supposed to be a clear beer. High flocculating yeasts may also drop out to quickly resulting in incomplete fermentation. For example: if you don't have a fermenation chamber and your house gets cooler at night a high flocculator may drop out and you could end up with a stalled ferment. You could also end up with more diacetyl in the finished beer since it didn't finish up.
Honestly, find a reliable source for the White Labs vials or Wyeast smack packs. They're $5 or $6 a piece, but a fresh, healthy, properly pitched culture is one of the most important things you can do for your beer. Harvesting and reusing is good if you're brewing at least every two weeks, but if you're letting it sit longer than that without some serious lab procedures you're probably better off culturing a starter from a commercial culture.
(Read Yeast by Jamil Zainasheff and Chris White for a far more detailed explanation by two experts.
http://www.amazon.com/Yeast-Practical-Fermentation-Brewing-Elements/dp/0937381969
This is a great read.
This is my full list of books from /r/homebrewing but it includes pro level books:
New Brewers:
Continued Learning:
Specialty/Advanced/Other:
Business Books:
Technical Readings (Textbooks might be expensive):
Since you're so stoked on yeast you should check out this book:
http://www.amazon.com/Yeast-Practical-Fermentation-Brewing-Elements/dp/0937381969/ref=sr_1_1
I'm reading it now, tons of amazing information on yeast & how to properly use yeast to make your beer better.
Finally watched the whole video. Be on the lookout--her slides seem correct, but she mis-speaks quite a bit and even misreads the slides. She also wings a few answers to questions that she clearly should have said that she didn't know the answer to. This video proved to be a good "test" for me since I finished reading the new Yeast book and it really taught me a lot. Interestingly, Neva is acknowledged for her help on the book so she's certainly no slouch.
You probably want to start with this - https://www.amazon.com/Yeast-Practical-Fermentation-Brewing-Elements/dp/0937381969
The Yeast book says it can be okay to use another strain of yeast, notably if it's clean-fermenting. The first pitch can be for flavor/character, and the second pitch can be to finish off fermentation. The second needs to be generous, highly active yeast.
However, using something like champagne yeast may not help because the simple sugars (that the champagne yeast would target) have probably been fermented already.
OP: In addition to /u/sanseriph74's questions, at what temperature(s) have you been fermenting? Have you tried rousing the yeast at all?
Before this gets downvoted to oblivion, I want to say that this will get downvoted because it's a lazy question, not because you're a homebrewer.
Read Yeast by Chris White. https://www.amazon.com/Yeast-Practical-Fermentation-Brewing-Elements/dp/0937381969/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1543266001&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=chris+white+yeast&dpPl=1&dpID=51yGg2L1kTL&ref=plSrch
Yeast: The Practical Guide to Beer Fermentation (Brewing Elements) https://www.amazon.com/dp/0937381969/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FYkpzbVGYWFQJ
If you haven't read it already, this is a fantastic book. It will answer just about every yeast question you'll ever have about yeast. I make all my new employees read the whole Brewing Elements series as part of their training here.
Stop reading the internet, and get this book
I'll 2nd Yeast. Best purchase you can make on this issue.
It's interesting that Jamil and Chris are saying different things about this considering that they wrote the book Yeast together.
[as per chris whites book Yeast: The Practical Guide to Beer Fermentation (Brewing Elements)] (https://www.amazon.com/Yeast-Practical-Fermentation-Brewing-Elements/dp/0937381969) no dont do a starter on dry yeast. just rehydrate to spec.
I'm selling all my home brew equipment and books asking 300, its an all or nothing deal sorry. I will provide pictures for any one interested.
1-glass carboy and hauler
1-bottling bucket with spout
1-fermenting bucket with lid
1-1 gallon glass carboy
1-2 gallon bucket
1-Hydrometer
3-Air locks
1-Thermometer
1-wood stirring paddle
1-40 quart stock pot
1-turkey fryer with the timer removed
1-20lb empty propane tank
1-capper and about 50 -60 beer bottle caps
1-corker for wine bottles and some corks
Auto siphon, tubing, racking cane,some PBW cleaner and Star Sanitizer left over, I have I think 12 empty wine bottles and probably have about an empty case worth of beer bottles.....I mean pretty much everything you need to brew or make wine.
Books are listed below and are in great shape.
How to Brew Beer
Designing Great Beer
For The Love of Hops
Yeast: The Practical Guide to Beer Fermentation
Hop Variety hand book
The Homebrewer's Garden
Yeast
Brewhouse Op
These are the books I'm using in school this semester. Hope they're what you're looking for.
This one?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/0937381969
Google is throwing a few different books titled yeast for me =\
Have you read through all of how to brew?
not sure it gets much more advanced than that unless you want something specialized or you start taking courses. The book gets really scientific.
That said... want to learn about yeast get this book.
I'm not saying it won't work, I'm just saying it's not optimal. It's been repeatedly proven by yeast manufacturers that a 1.03-1.04 SG is optimal. It's also basic fermentation science that yeast get stressed when forced to ferment multiple sugar sources. This is exacerbated with mead because yeast always consume the simple sugars first. So using malt + honey means the yeast ferment all the honey first, then switch metabolic processes to consume the malt, then get thrown back into a high SG solution of honey, subjecting them to higher osmotic stresses while they are attempting to go back to fermenting simple sugars.
Yeast also hit a reproduction threshold, which happens faster the smaller the available volume - they will stop producing new cells once a certain concentration is reached. A 1.5L starter is not very big and a fresh sachet of dry yeast should fill that in a matter of hours. Once that happens, yeast switch from reproduction to fermentation, which runs them out of sugar very quickly in a low gravity starter. You want to pitch before reproduction completely falls off or it introduces further stress forcing them back into reproduction when you pitch.
The energizer obviously varies but LD Carlson's calls for 1/2tsp and GoFerm is 1.25g per 1g yeast (so 6.25g for a 5g sachet, which is approximately 2tsp). It's minor but I was really just trying to say "use the recommended amount, don't just use 1/4tsp because someone said so".
Everything above is based on accumulated kinowledge of Chris White (aka White Labs yeast) and Jamil Zainasheff's extremely extensive research into yeast behavior in brewing. I would assume you know who they are but, they literally wrote the book on yeast and many aspects of their research have been repeatedly reaffirmed.
The book Yeast is a very good place to start. Also, checking out White Labs yeast bank and reading their descriptions will give you some idea about various yeast strains.
It is also worth noting that the Mr. Malty calculator is made by Jamil Zainasheff who is the co-author of the book Yeast: The Practical Guide to Beer Fermentation. The other author is Chris White, founder of White Labs.
In Yeast, the authors mention that not rehydrating dry yeast will kill about half the viable cells.
How to Brew.
Yeast
For the Love of Hops
Water
I haven't read the book in the water-hops-yeast-malt series on malt yet, but I'm sure it's good. Also, the Brewers Publications books on specific styles are great. My boss has most of them and I borrow them frequently.
A reply you've made makes it sound like they don't yet have a lab. So you are setting up a lab? Fun times!
First, micro is a fraction (large time consuming fraction) of what you'll need to know. Chemical/analytical testing will make up another, say, 1/4. Someone has linked the ASBC methods. This is a great place to start. Brush up on GLP if it's been a while since you've practiced other science streams.
Specifically regarding lab start up, ASBC also has a guide for what you should be testing at different production volumes: http://www.asbcnet.org/membership/getstarted/Pages/growyourown.aspx
Take this as a minimum. More is better, but depending if they are kegging/bottling/whatever not all of it will be relevant.
Expect paperwork review and filing. Shouldn't be too much of a shock coming from a lab. It's not glamorous but it is what it is.
Are they also looking at QA? This will include things like verification, validation, calibration, preventative maintenance, FDA/other food authorities, food safety, cleaning review, auditing, SOP generation and update, training, labelling, acrobatics etc.
Sensory! Can you taste beer? Can you detect faults? Check you ego; you probably don't. But that's okay. Get a sensory training program up and running. This should include training and review of their beers as well as basic defect training using flavour standards. If you haven't accepted you know nothing; these at 1x threshold will get you there. There's also great resources on setting up blind/triangular/etc training on their site: http://www.aroxa.com/beer
Speaking of egos; you mentioned home brewing. We have all met home Brewers that like to tell us about how they know more than us about our jobs. Don't be that guy/gal. Yes it is helpful that you understand the basics and we know you like beer, but that's about as useful as it gets. It's unlikely you'll be writing recipes or making beer.
Some good reading;
https://www.amazon.com/Quality-Management-Essential-Planning-Breweries/dp/1938469151
https://www.amazon.com/Yeast-Practical-Fermentation-Brewing-Elements/dp/0937381969
Yeast matters a lot
here you go
I have been using one for a year or two and its still gtg. I mostly got mine after reading through "yeast" it is of the author's expertise that o2 saturation is huge at the beginning of the fermentation.
I'm betting that the third bullet link was supposed to be this:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/0937381969/?tag=googhydr-20&hvadid=11638077209&ref=pd_sl_5f3sp8czyk_b
The book Yeast recommends no starters for dry yeast. They also recommend rehydrating the yeast in sanitized water for several minutes before pitching into the wort as the initial shock of hitting the higher gravity wort can kill upwards of 50% of the dry yeast.
One more vote for Yeast. I just finished reading it and its full of useful information and data. It tells you not only what you should be doing to keep your yeast happy, but has a bit of the underlying science involved. But don't let that scare you, the style is kept pretty conversational so its a fairly light read.
As for books on yeast, the first one I read was First Steps in Yeast Culture by Pierre Rajotte and Chris White's Yeast: The Practical Guide to Beer Fermentation
Rajotte's book is a quick read and will give you a great overview of the process of propagating yeast for brewing. Chris White's book (of White Labs) is, IMHO, way more in depth into yeast selection, management and testing. But both offer something that the other does not, so I highly recommend the both of them.
As for books on brewing, I started off with what is basically the bible of homebrewing which is The Complete Joy of Home Brewing by Charlie Papazian. But don't stop there. There are plenty of great books on brewing. Papazian's book will cover the foundations of brewing, but other books that deal with specific styles of brewing will give you a lot more information about how intricate the brewing process is. A lot of this information you can also get from perusing online how-to's and articles about specific practices. There are so many you will continuously learn about ways of making bear you never thought were "standard" or possible.
I read Sibel Institute's Technology Brewing and Malting by Wolfgang Kunze cover to cover. It's really informative, but I would focus on the books above and online resources before tackling Kunze's book.
As far as getting a setup like mine, if what you want is to be able to propagate yeast, you don't need most of what I have. Just start picking up pieces when you can. Start out with getting good at managing and making starters for your brews. That's basically what I do, but I'm starting on a much smaller scale. One vial or package of yeast in 1 litre of wort fermenting for 24 hours will give you great yeast growth (as long as you pay attention to temperature). Get acquainted with that process and you'll be able to jump into more advanced yeast management principles much easier.
http://www.amazon.com/Water-Comprehensive-Brewers-Brewing-Elements/dp/0937381993
http://www.amazon.com/For-The-Love-Hops-Bitterness/dp/1938469011/ref=pd_bxgy_b_img_y
http://www.amazon.com/Yeast-Practical-Fermentation-Brewing-Elements/dp/0937381969/ref=pd_bxgy_b_img_z
http://www.amazon.com/Malt-Practical-Guide-Field-Brewhouse/dp/1938469127/ref=pd_sim_b_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=0WQ72HEQ20V3E7C82R98
It is advised against. Paraphrasing from Yeast, pp164, 3rd paragraph: {Yeast at the end of fermenation are not healthy cells, many dead cells and other material. You need to remove unwanted yeast material, and make sure you're pitching appropriate amounts. (They then say specifically) "Do not be lazy. Yeast growth is important to beer flavor and overpitching, (esp with excessive trub) can have a negative effect."}
The recipe itself looks fine from a base standpoint, but I haven't had Magic Hat #9 in years so I don't know the flavor you're looking for. However, there are hundreds of clones out there for that beer you can find with a quick search.
> From what I've read the time you're adding the hops directly affects the flavor.
Short version is the more heat applied to them, the more bitter. The less heat, the more aromatic. So by adding Cascade at the 30 and 15, you get medium bittering and aroma and then more aroma with a touch of bitterness (and dry hopping is all aroma with no bitter).
> what are the pros and cons of different yeasts?
Ho boy! This is a question that entire books are written on.
Different yeasts make the beer taste different and can completely change what it is. The same 2-row/wheat wort with noble hops can be a Belgian Wit, German Heffe, or Saison based completely on which yeast you throw in there. So pros and con is so vague there's nothing I can say besides what are you looking for?
I think one issue here is that the terms "lagering" and "cold conditioning" have become synonyms which isn't exactly right to my understanding.
Traditional lagering is the process of cooling down the wort slowly in a way that doesn't shock the yeast into dormancy, which can cause more flavor compounds (mainly esters) to express and allows lager yeast to continue to uptake compounds in the beer down to the conditioning temperature.
Cold conditioning is the same for both lager yeast and ale yeast insofar as causing some compounds to drop out. Ale yeasts by and large don't do well at cold condition temperatures so instead of doing all the extra meddling with temperatures, we just usually crash to the condition temperature. From that point on they're essentially the same.
I've played with lagering ale yeast before and it did seem to reduce esters and produce a very clean beer compared to regular crashing, but I didn't do a triangle or anything so confirmation bias is in play. If you have the ability to lager, I would strongly suggest playing with it to see what the process does for ya. Might also be a great brulosophy experiment to compare lager to crashing, hmmmm....
There's more detailed info on page 114 in Yeast by Chris White and Jamil Zainasheff. A great book but not a casual read =)
The sugar's there because I'd like to boost ester production (glucose can affect fermentation flavor, a claim made in this book) and because I have it on hand already.
I'd love to try out honey malt sometime; I've never used it before, but I've heard only good things.
"Yeast" is also a very well reviewed book:
http://www.amazon.com/Yeast-Practical-Fermentation-Brewing-Elements/dp/0937381969
Take notes on your phone as he is telling you things, if it’s something really involved take a video of him explaining it to you. It helps to have notes and people like when they don’t have to repeat their instructions a bunch of times.
Also, start to pick up some books to familiarize yourself with the process. There are 4 books in this series and it’s pretty informative.
Yeast: The Practical Guide to Beer Fermentation (Brewing Elements) https://www.amazon.com/dp/0937381969/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_G8WdBbCZZY0JE
Brewed: Edwort's Haus Pale Ale.
Racked to secondary: Skeeter Pee which I added my finings and stabilized, and my Blackberry Wine.
Cleaned and delabeled: 10 cases of wine bottles that I scored for free from a local winery. (Still working on this).
Ordered: Ingredients for Raging Red Irish Red Ale, and BierMuncher's Centennial Blonde (I've got a few kegs to fill). I also ordered some one gallon fermentors for experimental batches, I think the first one is going to be a Banana Wine. I should also be getting a couple books, For The Love of Hops and Yeast: The Practical Guide to Beer Fermentation, as well as a refractometer, and a 10lb CO2 tank.
Human muscle cells usually undergo lactic acid fermentation when oxygen is in low supply (such as during vigorous exercise).
If this was replaced with ethanol fermentation, your muscles would produce alcohol during exercise, potentially enough to get you drunk.
I first read about this process in this book about yeast.
Right, I will try my best.
These books 1 2 give a great overview of yeast and yeast management.
I hope this has answered your questions. If not please ask more
Yes, 1 year and spots fill up for the taste test fast. We are fortunate enough to have a big enough group and couple of high ranking judges to allow us to get our own exam for our study group. They recommend you sign up for a taste test before taking the entrance exam.
I assume you have already visited this page but it will give you everything you need to pass the entrance exam. http://www.bjcp.org/examcenter.php Also if you like reading, Yeast by Chris White and Jamil Zannishef, Hops by Stan Hirronamous and soon Water by John Palmer are great advanced books that will be great resources for brewing, judging and making recipes. That said to pass the exam all you will need is the study guide, the procedure manual, and the BJCP style guidelines is all you need.
Put together a proper fermentation chamber. Typically a chest freezer and a temperature controller, optionally with a Raspberry Pi or an Arduino integrated to give you more control over and data about your fermentation. Depending upon how much space you want, plan to spend ~$200-$300.
Before getting into lager brewing, I also strongly recommend investing in equipment to build proper starters, if you don't have it already. Stir plate, a few stir bars, at least a 1L Erlenmeyer flask. Around $50-$100 depending upon what you go with. Also worth picking up a copy of Yeast if you don't have it -- very solid primer on the subject. Apart from inadequate temperature control, underpitching and yeast management in general are the single biggest issues ale brewers have when they start brewing lagers.
Jamil co-wrote the book Yeast: The Practical Guide to Beer Fermentation with the founder of White Labs. I know that's not really an answer, but he knows his stuff enough that I trust the list.
You should treat your lager yeast starters the same as your ales, as far as temperature goes. In my experience lager yeast take longer to take off in primary, but they should behave almost exactly like ale in the starter.
My source is Jamil's book on yeast, which is great by the way.
What I Did Last Week::
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I frequently count my yeast cell counts with a hemocytometer and methylene blue stain. I used the method straight out of the Yeast book.
http://www.amazon.com/Yeast-Practical-Fermentation-Brewing-Elements/dp/0937381969
While that had been my understanding as well, I believe I read about certain brett strains being able to produce low levels of acid in Jamil Zainasheff and Chris White's Yeast (not really a great book, btw). I'll try to remember to look it up later.
Edit: Actually, it might have been on the Mad Fermentationist. I'll try to figure it out.
Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:
Amazon Smile Link: Yeast: The Practical Guide to Beer Fermentation
|Country|Link|
|:-----------|:------------|
|UK|amazon.co.uk|
|Spain|amazon.es|
|France|amazon.fr|
|Germany|amazon.de|
|Japan|amazon.co.jp|
|Canada|amazon.ca|
|Italy|amazon.it|
|China|amazon.cn|
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Yeast goes through three stages during fermentation. The third phase is the stationary phase and it's explained on page 69 of the Yeast book.
"Yeast reabsorb much of the diacetyl and acetaldehyde produced during fermentation, and hydrogen sulfide continues to escape from the top of the fermentor as gas."
So you're doing yourself a favor if you wait. The end product will be better.
Yeast: The Practical Guide to Beer Fermentation (Brewing Elements) https://www.amazon.com/dp/0937381969/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Ei8pDbNP3EY5M
Just finished that book. It does a terrific job of toeing the line between the scientific and the anecdotal if you don't have any formal training. Have recommended it to every one of my friends that homebrews.
I'd recommend checking out the book Yeast: The Pracical Guide to Beer Fermentation as a good starting point. It covers basically everything you could need to know.
Read this: Yeast
Its a great read and filled with everything you should know (and then some) about brewers yeast.