Hey so I hate to shit in on everyone else's opinions, but they're not really recommending the best gear for your dollar. /r/audiophile has a sticky on this exact subject. Basically the lowest end system they are willing to recommend is a pair of Micca MB42s . If you can spring for the 42x's, they are more than worth the 10 extra dollars. You will need an amplifier to drive them. /r/audiophile reccomends the Muse m50, but I can tell you from personal experience, a lepai 2020a+ with a slightly beefier power supply will run them just fine for half the price. These are pretty chunky speakers, but they'll blow any "pc/gaming" speakers out of the water. If you decide you'd like to go for this, I have about 30 feet of speaker wire lying around that I'd be happy to mail to you to save you the 8 bucks or so. Hope this helps, and happy listening!

Additional pictures/gifs if anyone's interested:

https://imgur.com/a/hShEq2F

EDIT: Thought I'd include links for some things being asked for on here. I didn't purchase everything new nor recently so there are some things I wasn't able to ID.

Art/Deco:

• "Kiss More Often" Wall art
  
  • Thanks to those that pointed out that the Amazon tapestry isn't affiliated with or supporting the original artist. I've linked to the artist's store instead
    
• Gold Trellis Wallpaper
  
• Bed Rest Pillow
  
  • I got this at Target but can't find the exact one. Amazon seems to have a bunch.
    
• Bedding/Comforter
  
  • I can't remember where this comforter came from since I've had it for so long. I'd recommend looking out for decent sales or checking HomeGoods for decently priced comforters
    
• Bed Throw Blanket
  
• Couch Throw Blanket
  
• White Corduroy Couch Pillow Covers
  
• Couch
  
  • Found it for cheap on Craigslist and can't provide an ID
    
• Floor Rug
  
  • Found it on Craigslist as well. It's a Safavieh Hudson Shag Rug
    
• Bedside Floor Rug
  
• Anti-Fatigue Mat for the Standing Desk
  
• 5-Arm Floor Lamp
  
• Ottoman with Storage
  
  • Found this on a marketplace (LetGo) and can't find any identifying details
    
• Incense Holder
  
• Duct Tape for Framing and Line Work
  
  Technology/Peripherals:
  
  
• Standing Desk
  
  • Buying the desk without the tabletop knocks off about $100 . It might be a cost-effective solution if you want to build a custom-tabletop/desk for under $300
    
• KRK Rokit 5 Studio Monitors
  
• Studio Monitor Stands
  
• TCL 43 Inch 4K TV
  
• Adjustable TV Desk Mount
  
• JBL 5.1 Home Theater Speaker System
  
  • Look for Amazon Warehouse deals on this stuff. I found a set for $100 below the price for a brand new set
    
• Yamaha RX-V383 AV Receiver
  
  • Found this used on LetGo
    
• Led Light Strips
  
  • I've had my light strips for years so I can't provide a specific ID for mine. I linked to a set that uses the same wifi controller as mine but you can shop around. I used 4 strips to do the bed backlighting, under-lighting and desk backlighting
    
• Led Wifi Controllers
  
  • If you have a led strip that doesn't have a wifi controller, you can purchase a compatible controller to take advantage of home automation

I currently have hooked up to my new LG Oled 4k tv


Xbox One, Xbox One S, Xbox 360, OG Xbox
Wii,Wii U, Switch
Ps4, Ps3 Slim, Ps3 Phat,Ps2, PSX
Sega Genesis, Sega Dreamcast
(all other systems I own are not hooked up currently)

and I Have a Gaming PC in the Basement with HTC Vive

Cant wait for Xbox One X.

My currently philosophy is Video games are like Pokemon..Gotta Catch 'em All.

For an extra $20 you can get this years model which is 4k.

it's noteable the same service from silicondust/hdhomerun is $3/mo
https://www.silicondust.com/dvr-service/

while it will be $0/mo this Fall when Amazon jumps into this market
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J6A6H74

Here's the ADS-B receiver that I have. It's really simple to setup.

Well since it seems you're not a huge audiophile, I don't think you need to get too complicated with what you need, so my recommendation is to stay with 5.1, anything higher I think is overkill unless you're really passionate about surround.

I don't personally like wireless speakers, you never know if something can interfere with the signal and cause any audio loss, so I would stay with wired.

My best recommendation would be something simple but functional, there are packages out there that come with the receiver, speakers and sub woofer for about $300+ depending on your needs. I don't recommend ones that come with the DVDs/bluray player built in though, try and find one that has a big receiver. Something like this would do: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0077V88V8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1420721858&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=313AsvRhHuL&ref=plSrch#

If I had a $1500 budget, I would recommend the following:

​

Epson Home Cinema 2150 - $699.00

​

Micca MB42X - $79.95

​

Micca MB42X Center - $69.95

​

Fluance AVBP2 - $119.99

​

Denon AVR S530BT - $229.00

​

Silver Ticket 120" Screen - $249.98

​

This would give you a decent entry level setup. You'll have about 50$ left over for speaker wire. I am be no means an expert but I lurk a lot and I think this would be decent.

​

​

​

I've never used them, but I personally would rather spend the extra $50 for TCL https://www.amazon.com/TCL-43S425-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B07DK5PZFY

There are really 2 classes of mobile controllers. You have the "pocketable" ones and you have the "full-sized" controllers.

Are you looking for something you can put in your pocket? Or is this going into a backpack or someplace where you'll have more room?

for the "pocketable" controllers, there aren't a ton of options. A few of the more popular ones:

• MOGA Pocket MOGA's first foray into controllers. No D-pad. Kind of cramped. Only 1 set of shoulder buttons. But it's only $18 right now (in the US at least).
  
• MOGA Hero Power Update version of the Pocket. Slightly larger and more comfortable. Has a d-pad. But still only 1 set of shoulder buttons.(fixed) Quite a bit more expensive at $45 USD.
  
• Ipega bluetooth controller d-pad, dual-analog sticks, 1 set of shoulder buttons. There are similar ones made by Nyko and some other companies. I think they're just re-brands of the same generic controller though. $22 USD
  
  I haven't used those, but from what I've read they work pretty well for shorter gaming sessions. An hour or more and your hand is going to feel pretty cramped though.
  
  for the full-sized controllers there are more options.
  
  
• PS3 controller with a gameKlip. I haven't used this myself but people are constantly praising it. Personally, I can't stand the analog stick placement on PS controllers, but if you like it then this is a good solution. However, you said that you're using a tablet, so the gameklip probably won't help you.
  
• XBOX 360 controller with an OTG cable. I use this one all the time. It works really well. Very comfortable, plenty of buttons. Although the d-pad sucks. Another downside is wires. You need the OTG cable to connect to either a wired XBOX controller, or to the xbox wireless receiver
  
• MOGA Pro / Pro Power I have the MOGA Pro, and I use it pretty frequently. I typically use the xbox controller at home, and the MOGA while on the road. It's about 3/4 the size of an xbox controller and therefore not quite as comfortable. It does work very well though. Haven't tried the Pro Power, but it's the newer version. Since they're the same price I'd pick the Pro Power over the older Pro.
  
• NYKO playpad I think this is really very similar to the IPEGA one in terms of build quality. However it has triggers as well as shoulder buttons, a d-pad, and extended grips. Plus it's cheap. Only $20 USD.
  
  One of the main benefits with the MOGA line of controllers is that they have the phone-holder clip built right in. But if you're using this for a tablet, then that doesn't really help you. Therefore I think I'd recommend that you get either an XBOX 360 controller or a PS3 controller. You simply can't beat the quality of those two. MOGA's coming close, but it's not there yet.
  
  
  |Controller Model|Full-Sized|D-Pad|Shoulder Triggers|Wireless|Phone-Holder|Price (USD)|
  |:--|:--|:--|:--|:--|:--|:--|
  |MOGA Pocket| | | | X | X | 18|
  |MOGA Hero Power | | X | X | X | X | 45|
  |MOGA Pro Power| X | X | X | X | X | 50|
  | Ipega bluetooth controller| | X | | X | X | 20|
  |NYKO Playpad | | X | | X | X | 15 |
  |NYKO Playpad Pro| X | X | X | X| | 20|
  | DualShock 3* | X | X | X | X | w/ gameKlip| 40|
  | Wired XBOX 360 Controller | X | X | X | | | 35|
  
  * Dualshock 3 controller (PS3 Controller) requires the Sixaxis app($2.50) and Root (if you want to use bluetooth instead of the OTG)
  \ Xbox 360 Controller requires USB OTG cable (~ $5 shipped)
  

Yes, the general consensus among audiophiles is that Bose is overpriced and soundbars are very underwhelming. "Real 5.1 sound" cannot (yet) be achieved without a real 5.1 setup. Most HTIB (Home Theatres in a Box) will give you better sound than a soundbar.

I own this 5.1 Pioneer speaker setup found here and I highly recommend it to anyone that is looking for a good entry level home theater setup. Shop around and you can get a fantastic deal on the whole setup. I got the 5.0 setup for less than $300 and then upgraded to a $200 BIC 12 sub to get the 0.1.

You will then of course need a decent reciever (about $250) and cables and you will blow any speaker bar out of the water. I am not certain if this is within your budget since you only quoted "cheaper than bose" but I have seen this exact setup recommend many times before and I feel it is one of the best values for the price.

Edit: I was way under your budget. You could definitely do better than this setup at your price range.

Honestly, there are some really nice screens on the cheap these days. Check out Elite Screens and Silver Ticket. Here's an example: http://www.amazon.com/STR-169120-Silver-Ticket-120-Diagonal/dp/B00CYLOTPK.

Also, you could also go the DIY route with better results by reading through here: http://www.avsforum.com/forum/110-diy-screen-section/

You have the room. Time for 2.0.

Yeah but it also costs 7 times as much as a Ps4 Pro. For the same amount of money you can get a Ps4 Pro and a nice 4k OLED TV.

Edit: The laptop costs $2699

Ps4 Pro ($399): https://www.amazon.com/Sony-PlayStation-4-Pro-1TB/dp/B01LOP8EZC/

LG 4K OLED 55 Inch($1999): https://www.amazon.com/LG-Electronics-OLED55B6P-55-Inch-Ultra/dp/B01CDF9S1G/

Looks a bit overpriced for what it is. I would purchase a Blu-ray player separately and this system instead

Yes. There are more than a couple 4k TVs that are capable of running at 1080p120 either natively or with some tweaking. I'm not sure of many that support >1080p and >60Hz simultaneously.

Blurbusters has a useful post on the subject.

http://www.blurbusters.com/overclock/120hz-pc-to-tv/

They also have some forums with people posting about their successful overclocks over here.

http://www.blurbusters.com/overclock/120hz-pc-to-tv/

This site is useful for finding the input lag of TVs but only lists the display refresh rate rather than the actual refresh rate the TV will accept from an input.

https://displaylag.com/display-database/

This site is extremely useful at confirming that a given TV supports true 120Hz:

http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/best/by-usage/pc-monitor

Here's a decent TV with very little input lag:

http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/lg/sj8500

There are some cool OLEDs that support 1080p 120Hz like this one. I would absolutely recommend OLED if you can afford it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CDF9S1G?tag=rtings-tv-bm11b-20&ie=UTF8

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Well, if you plan on buying a cheaper set, only to upgrade piece by piece, do not buy a in-box system from companies like LG, Samsung, Panasonic, Sony etc. The OHM load is not standard 6-8 like a stand alone stereo receiver, so you can't just buy replacement speakers for them, so you would have to cut the plugs off (they usually aren't pos/neg but have there own type of "special" plug) which is NOT recommended. Plus, those subs are passive, meaning they aren't a powered type set up so you can't just buy a new one from the store either. These set ups are referred to as "disposable" to people who deal with them a lot.

I recommend either finding a 5.1 set (that doesn't come with a receiver) from a company like Klipsch or Polk Audio, and than buying a standalone receiver or an Onkyo set. If you have a budget of $300-$400, Onkyo makes a fantastic in box set up, that will allow you to swap out any piece for upgrades or replacements, as well as plenty of HDMI I puts for gaming consols, optical input jacks, analog input jacks and so on, so you can plug in just about anything.

http://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-HT-S3500-5-1-Channel-Theater-Receiver/dp/B0077V88V8 this set up is on sale right now, it's actually a killer deal.

Source: I sold home audio for 6 years.

http://www.amazon.com/Tripath-TPA3123-Stereo-Amplifier-Supply/dp/B008YBC172/

http://www.amazon.com/SMSL-TDA7492-Integrated-Tripath-Amplifier/dp/B00F0H8TOC/

http://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42X-Bookshelf-Speakers-Tweeter/dp/B00E7H8GG2

http://www.amazon.com/Mordaunt-Short-Alumni-Bookshelf-Speakers-Black/dp/B0049APO8U

http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-TSi100-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B00192KF12

http://www.fluance.com/product/SX6_High_Definition_Two_way_Bookshelf_Loudspeakers.eng-12.html

http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-SP-BS22-LR-Designed-Bookshelf-Loudspeakers/dp/B008NCD2LG

http://www.amazon.com/Fostex-PMO-4-W-4-Inch-Personal-Speaker/dp/B00CYNT8XG

http://www.amazon.com/Alesis-Elevate-Speakers-Elliptical-Waveguide/dp/B00F3F7OIS

you should look around on /r/audiophile. Their lowest recommended setup are the Micca MB42X and the Muse M50. You can go cheaper on the amp but the speakers are the key part to a good listening experience. You're at $145 there. The LP120 has a built-in preamp so you won't need to worry about buying a separate one.

also if you haven't yet check out /r/zeos for his 2.0 and 2.1 recommendations located HERE

All those are if you want to go new. You can probably scour Craigslist or eBay and find some vintage stuff for a little cheaper, it's up to you.

You're talking about this one then. You'll be okay with that. It's got a 1 year warranty which is great.

Why not just pay $10 more and get it brand new?

Affiliate link from a poster with a history of posting such things anywhere and everywhere.

Here's the clean link.

For 150 dollars, you'd have to see what you can find on craigslist.

Surround receivers alone start at about 220 dollars (like this one) for something you'd want as a base to upgrade with.

Go all in on a 5.1 receiver and see if you can score some cheap speakers at Goodwill. I bought a pair for 10 bucks and used those for awhile and upgraded those, then added center, rear surrounds, and a subwoofer later on.

There's this

An HTPC can do everything you'd want it to do, but for what you're describing, I'd look into a Roku first. That might do what you want without having to build anything complicated.

http://www.amazon.com/Roku-4200R-3-Streaming-Player/dp/B00BGGDVOO/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1373158898&sr=8-4&keywords=Roku

I feel like you're really limiting yourself on options by only getting stuff from Best Buy. Depending on your seating distance, I'd go with a projector to make it a true home theater experience. I'm not against big TVs but when I'm ready to have an all out dedicated theater, TV is not what I think of. 4k projectors are starting to become viable options even if they're not 'true 4k', pixel shifted models are almost indistinguishable from the real deal.
On the audio end, if you get refurbished gear from accessories4less and get internet direct gear, you can get much better value and quality than what's available at Best Buy. The one thing that the store might be good for is to listen to the Klipsch models and see if you even remotely like how they sound.
With all of that above said, here is my recommendation
Epson 4010 projector

Silver ticket screen

Denon X1400

2X Klipsch RP-160M

Klipsch RP-440C

2X PB-2000, select dual for 100 in savings.

All in this puts you at 4736.72 and nets a really good 5.1 setup. You could upgrade to a full atmos receiver and tower speakers if you really wanted to and had the space for it.

I'd replace the X1400 with a Marantz SR6012 to get full atmos. Curiously the Marantz is cheaper than the equivalent Denon X4400 option.
I'd also go with the Klipsch RP-260F up front.

This gets you full 7.2 with the option to upgrade to Atmos, tower front speakers and all of the rest above for
5944.56

I'd even go as far as calling the second upgraded option the generic recommended /r/hometheater setup. The most obvious thing to replace would be the speakers and subs depending on your preference with any speaker brand and the subs with other ID companies like Rythmik, HSU, Powersoundaudio.

You could try this audio digital-to-analog converter.

Use the optical Toslink out from the console and plug headphones into converter.

That's basically how I play except I have my x41 transmitter as the converter. The only issue might be volume. The x41 transmitter is powered but features a volume knob for the headphones out. I don't see that for the d/a converter.

I don't experience any audio lag through my setup.

E/ You might also need an in-line volume control or headphones with one built in. All together, you should be able to get setup for around $30. Good luck.

https://www.amazon.com/LG-Electronics-OLED55B6P-55-Inch-Ultra/dp/B01CDF9S1G/

2300 dollars

I mean they do have Live TV though the Recast but it would be what ever you can get locally Over the Air through an Antenna.

because it still looks great on a 1080p tv? i don't have a 4K tv yet but i have my eye on this hopefully it's still on sale within the next two weeks.

Sony xbr49x900e and xbr55x900e on sale for $898 and $998 on Amazon right now:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N284JCN/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1510992076&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=sony+xbr49x900e&dpPl=1&dpID=41HZHaIc-VL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MUG21R7/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1510992076&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=sony+xbr49x900e&dpPl=1&dpID=41HZHaIc-VL&ref=plSrch

Micca RB42

Micca MB42X

Fluance Signature Series

Wharfedale Diamond 10.1

-----------------------------------------------------

Denon Receiver

That should be a good starting point. And there isn't really anything to tell you to look for at a thrift store. There's just too much out there. If it's heavy, it might be good. If it's got 5 way binding post instead of spring clips, it might be good. There isn't a ton of real advice to give you there.

If you can wait a month, this + a fire tv stick looks promising. It doesn't specifically mention Canadian channels, but Canada and the US both use ATSC so it ought to work fine.

My office uses this television for presentations:

https://www.amazon.com/TCL-43S405-43-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01N29XPO3/ref=sr_1_3?s=tv&ie=UTF8&qid=1522707345&sr=1-3&keywords=4k+tv

cannot really speak to gaming but it works well and is pretty cheap

https://www.amazon.com/All-New-Ultra-Remote-Streaming-Player/dp/B01N32NCPM/ref=sr_tr_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1506542278&sr=8-1&keywords=fire+tv

Denon AVR-S740H

SVS Prime 5.1

The towers are rated down to 30Hz, which isn't as good as a sub but way better than a soundbar/tv.

The other path to get a pair of bookshelves ($500) or satellites ($250) then a sub at $800 for 2.1. The plan here is to take the solid speakers that you'll use for your mains right away and move them to your surround channel later, giving you a bad-ass 5.1 system later.

Looking to buy a 43" 4K TV for my bedroom soon and want one that doubles as an occasional monitor when I want to step away from 1080 and see the visuals pop. Does anyone have any recommendations? I've been looking at this TCL tv for a little bit but am unsure that 1) it'll be good for gaming, and 2) if 43" is too small for 4K? Any recommendations are appreciated but I'm definitely looking for the value/budget TVs rather than the top of the line stuff.

43 inch 4K tv has Roku built in. I have a 32 inch 1080p one by the same brand and I love it.

Well right meow I was looking at the cheapest option which was this [Onkyo HTIB] (http://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-HT-S3500-5-1-Channel-Theater-Receiver/dp/B0077V88V8/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1346954220&sr=1-1&keywords=HTIB) to get me started. However, in my mind it probably makes a little more sense to go higher quality. Would 750-1.5k be enough for a decent system? If not, what price point am I looking at for a decent 7.1 system? I am also fine with a 5.1 with the option to upgrade in the future.

Something like this would be necessary

Here's another candidate - the RasHAWK. A RaspberryPi + Arduino DFing system. This could probably be built for about $250. If you were poor and desperate you could make a workable version for $180 or so.

It utilizes an RTL-SDR as its receiver, which is a $20 USB dongle you can get on Amazon (I have one, they're pretty nifty. A great place to start if you want to get into SDR.)

Hi, you can instead get:

http://amzn.com/B00MV6TAJI
and
http://amzn.com/B00P2UOU72

But it won't have the software pre-loaded. See the instructions on http://stratux.me under "Loading the Software" on how to do this.

That is the only real difference.

I've contacted the seller now to see what happened to the pre-loaded kit, I think it has sold out.

Samsung. Specifically this lineup.

Okay here you go -

Sharp LC-60LE650 60-inch Aquos 1080p 120Hz Smart LED HDTV by Sharp http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BG5M93Y/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_E7Qetb123NKEP watch this as it will move in price. Right now is amazing,

Onkyo HT-S3500 5.1-Channel Home Theater Speaker/Receiver Package by Onkyo http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0077V88V8/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_K8Qetb1KC9W9M - again watch this because it will change

Nexera 221133 Allure 60-Inch TV Stand, Ebony and White by Nexera http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008HUNTDA/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_j9Qetb054VAXZ - same

Nexera 220433 Allure 36-Inch 2-Drawer Unit, Ebony and White by Nexera http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0062O1L10/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_I9Qetb0EV7WZX - again watch.

The actual shelves were the hardest part because they are different pieces so I had to see when one would get a bump down.

There is money involved but it's after lots of saving and waiting for the right time for deals. Like I said before, amazon and craigslist can be your best friend.

Hi Zeos. Thank you for sharing all your knowledge and taking the time to educate and answer others.

I bought this HTiB about 2 years ago before I knew anything about audio/visual equipment. Everything is in good working condition. I started stalking /r/audiophile, /r/headphones, and /r/hometheater and came across /r/zeos. Reading up on your posts about 2.0/2.1 and 5.0/5.1 systems has made me think whether I should change my setup.

I'm currently using my system for watching streamed TV/movies and also for listening to music streamed from my android/computer to my Chromecast. I do not have a DVD or Blueray player. However, this is in a small room, about 11'x20'. Note that the TV/couch orientation uses the 11' distance and not the 20' distance. After looking at your diagrams for a 5.1 system, I noticed I have absolutely no room behind my couch since my couch is right up against the wall. This makes me think I'm not really taking advantage of a 5.1 system. I'm also not planning to upgrade the room size for another 3-5 years.

Would you suggest trying to sell the HTiB and starting from scratch with a 2.0/2.1 system? Will I see a notable upgrade from my HTiB? And since I use this for TV/movies, would it be advisable to get something with multiple inputs (like one of the 5.1 receivers) rather than just one of the amps you have listed above?

Ah gotcha, if you watch movies and all that shnaazzz then any home theater setup will do. I'd suggest having one with a receiver, you'll just need to connect the PC via HDMI into the receiver, then have the receiver output to the TV via HDMI as well.


Unfortunately, it does come at a price. A decent 5.1 system starts around 250 or so unless you find a sale. This has some great reviews on Amazon and I personally would have bought it but found this on sale, which I'm extremely happy about. But they're pretty much in the same class.


Also, there's some 5.1 multimedia speakers available for <200 but I'm assuming you get the quality of what you pay for. I have a 2.1 system with a sub connected to my PC and the sub is satisfying, yet completely under-performed compared to my home theater setup in my living room. It's really up to you though, I don't watch movies on my PC so the 2.1 system does just fine.

I would advise you that buying a sound bar is a waste of your money. You're much better off setting that money aside and saving for a better system.

Speakers are the most important part of a sound system, more important than the receiver (just to put it simply. Obviously there are caveats).

If you're really desperate to make the leap now, there are many Home Theater In a Box (HITB) setups in your price range. Consider purchasing one of these, with an eye on upgrading your speakers.

Personally, I like my Onkyo a lot, and you might consider this unit on Amazon. I do not own it myself, but it is well reviewed. I recommend searching for units in your range, and then google that model along with key words "AVS forum" - you'll likely find a ton of user feedback.

A few key points I would mention - don't worry about 7.1 systems unless your TV viewing area is cavernous. If you are watching Blu-rays, do focus on something with HDMI inputs, to maximize your options for hi-def audio. My opinion is that Sony gear tends to be overpriced, because of the brand name. Consider looking into a well reviewed HITB from lesser known brands.

You're solving the wrong problem here... you're trying to work around the fact you bought a rather cheap HTiB, when you should just return it and get a better one, negating the need for all this shenanigans...

Here's an Onkyo set for $280.

So, I count four HDMI devices (not sure what "home theater" means)... which that would support... and it has two Component jacks as well.. (will only output Component via Component), in addition to two TOSLINK in and a Coax in as well so your non-HDMI audio is covered too.

So, you'd have Four devices on HDMI, Two on Component, Two TOSLINK cables going into the receiver. Then going from the receiver to the TV you'd only have an HDMI Cable, and a Component cable.

Whether you think simplifying things to this level is worth the extra $17 ($190 + $73 + shipping) you'd be spending (and less remotes) is up to you.

The amp needs to be rated for impedance at or below your speakers' (ex. amp 4ohm, speakers 8ohm = fine. Amp 8ohm speakers 4ohm = fried)

A popular budget amp is the Lepai 2020, which goes for about $25. Not a great choice but gets the job done. This sub recommends the Muse M50.

If you need more purchasing advice, use the sticky thread.

The Micca/Muse combo is your best option. It's really easy to set up and will be much better than a 2.1 system at your budget (unless you buy used).

http://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42X-Bookshelf-Speakers-Tweeter/dp/B00E7H8GG2

http://www.amazon.com/Tripath-TPA3123-Stereo-Amplifier-Supply/dp/B008YBC172/

Another option, it's pretty hard to get much simpler than this: http://www.amazon.com/M-Audio-BX5-Carbon-Monitors-Production/dp/B00II8H3AQ/

Sounds like you're used to 2.1 boxed "computer speakers". They tend to be pretty low quality. The speakers I listed are active monitors, meaning they don't require an amp or anything and are designed to produce accurate sound for desk use. So might not be the best for your TV.

They are not "powered" speakers, and as such require an amplifier to function at audible levels. Your piano probably does have a speaker amplifier built in, but it uses that to power the internal speakers. You will need an external amplifier (like a receiver) to connect your speakers to the RCA line output (red and white connectors) on your piano. The /r/audiophile recommended cheap amplifiers are the MUSE M50 or SMSL SA-50. You will need an RCA male to male cable and speaker wire of 14ga or 16ga, which you can get on amazon or monoprice.

Buy this http://www.amazon.com/Tripath-TPA3123-Stereo-Amplifier-Supply/dp/B008YBC172/

The reason people did that in the late 1990's was some people had at least one console(PS1 or a Saturn) that played cd roms, but not always access to a decent pc with internet. Libraries often had internet access plus burners or the persons knew someone that had access to a pc that could burn cds (as the drives and the cds themselves were extremely cheap). The consoles were typically already modded to get around regional blocks and play the games that they ripped to a cd rom.

You mention the screen, battery, and controller... but those are poor reasons.

You'd take a perfectly good console (that requires a lot of room, and takes ten minutes to setup and tear down every time you move it) and mod it either by using a mod chip (some soldering required), or bootload a different OS using a separate USB drive or external hard drive. This includes multiple steps for prepping either a special cd/dvd, a usb stick, or an additional hard drive. If it's a recent console, you lose the ability to RMA if anything breaks. Any method you use, you'd have to make multiple trips to your PC to get it working. On top of that you get half ass support when it comes to graphics, internet access (minus... the Wii), applying patches, and games and consoles past the gensis/snes era are not going to have any of the support they have today-so you'll have a lot of roms that don't work... and you'll be waiting for some poor soul to port the emulator to your console and support it.

The whole time you're setting that up, you're doing it on a perfectly good PC that has well established emulators that have several years support. I can setup a PS2 emulator that works with greater than 90% of games, and I can basically play effectively all games on any console before that (minus the Atari Jaguar, Saturn, and N64). If it's PS1 or older, I can do it on my cell phone and tablet too.

Wither you're using a console, cell phone, tablet, or pc... being discouraged by 1-2 hours on one battery charge means anything when you're already going to be setting aside space and plugging it in for a console.

Modern tablets and cell phones are pretty sensitive and accurate that you can play a number of action games without being frustrated. If you need more, usb controllers and bluetooth controllers starts at $25 and goes up in price. A decent one in either area goes for about $40 and will last you forever. People acting like they don't have this option in this day and age are either obtuse or really cheap-they sell them at every Walmart.

As far as playing on a big screen, you can use multiple software or hardware options. Some expensive, some cheap depending on your setup and what you're willing to tolerate. You can do it from your cell phone and tablet, or your pc. Playing on a big screen doesn't beat convenience tho.

If you don't have to watch through the roku, there is this: http://www.amazon.com/Multi-function-Digital-Converter-Box-Recording/dp/B00BFIJQ10/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1394394127&sr=8-2&keywords=digital+converter

It will allow you to view directly on the tv. Simple, easy, cheap solution.

If the antenna is hooked directly to your TV, then I'm pretty sure it won't work. A workaround would be to buy an external over the air tuner with an HDMI out. I think this device will do it for you: http://www.amazon.com/iView-3500STB-DTV-Converter-Box/dp/B00BFIJQ10/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1377732045&sr=8-3&keywords=tv+tuner

As far as I'm aware, the only thing that could be done currently would be to use a stand-alone tuner with HDMI output, like this one

Of course I've not tried this and can't say for sure whether or not that would work, but there's no reason to believe that it couldn't.

I wonder if it will support the HDHomeRun or USB tuners somehow, otherwise this might be your best option http://www.amazon.com/iview-3500STB-Digital-Converter-Recording/dp/B00BFIJQ10/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1369162356&sr=8-2&keywords=cable+tuner+hdmi

Yep - HDMI and plug and youre golden. And AppleTV isnt a new tv, it is apples version of the Roku.

Roku3 - http://www.amazon.com/Roku-3-Streaming-Media-Player/dp/B00BGGDVOO

AppleTV - http://www.target.com/p/the-new-apple-tv-black-md199ll-a/-/A-14051076#prodSlot=medium_1_0&term=apple tv

I have a Roku 3 and it works great. They have a Roku 4 out now.

The Amazon Page lists the differences.

If you want to watch 1080p, you'll need at least the roku 1.

The main differences between the 1 and 3:

• Fancier remote- Motion control for games, headphone jack for silent viewing. In practice I never use either of these functions- whether they're worth it is up to you.
  
  
• Faster networking- The 3 comes with dual band wireless and an ethernet port, which the other models do not. Since most of the Roku's use is for viewing streams not local to the unit, this may or may not be a big deal.
  
  
• Faster processor Apparently 5x as fast as the other models. I have a LT and a 3, and I can say the LT chugs along most of the time on menu interfaces, while the 3 zips right along fluidly. Video playback quality is the same (although the LT is outputting in analog).
  
  If those features are worth $40 to you, then go get the 3. If not, you can easily settle for a lesser model.

I have read a lot about screens recently, as I am also getting a projector. Pretty much everyone recommends the silver ticket for a budget screen. I just ordered mine, 133".

Pretty much everyone says its as good as any screen under $2000 and easy to set up.

HDMI over ethernet makes zero sense if you are working from scratch, just run an 18gb/s capable cable. If you are running wire in the ceiling might as well add the lines for Atmos height channels.

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/optoma-uhd50-4k-dlp-projector-with-high-dynamic-range-white/6188344.p?skuId=6188344&intl=nosplash

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/offer-listing/B00CYLOTPK

I currently have a [120" Silver Ticket] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CYLOTPK/) off of Amazon and I've always thought it was pretty nice, but seeing the dark energy demos ... wow. Do you think I would see a significant improvement with the Abyss ALR? I'd certainly spend the $1,200 if it would greatly improve my HT setup.

yeah the [optical audio adapter to RCA is gonna be the cheapest and most effective.] (https://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-HD8023-Digital-Optical-Converter/dp/B00KCRYIWM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485097522&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=Optical+audio+to+RCA+adapter&psc=1) It'll be direct to the board and wont go out of sync with the video from the projector.

http://www.amazon.com/NooElec-Receiver-Compatible-Packages-Guaranteed/dp/B00P2UOU72/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1415227534&sr=8-4&keywords=nooelec+r820t2

Instead of the R820T, I suggest the R820T2 which has improved sensitivity and noise characteristics.

For DXing (long distance), you can get a shortwave receiver with SSB for under $100 (example). If you want to transmit back to those stations you would require a HF transceiver and a ham license (in the US, General-class is recommended). You can get a 1980s-vintage model used for $250-350. Or a new one like the FT-450 for $650-700. Also required for a transceiver would be a power supply or 12V battery, an antenna, and possibly an antenna tuner.

Oh! Sorry. Well, it's actually not that expensive! http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P2UOU72?psc=1

I emailed them about this. Here's the reply I got:


> It contains the same high-accuracy standard crystal as our NESDR Mini, 25PPM instead of 100PPM+ used in 'generic' RTL-SDRs.
>
> Kind Regards,
> Sarah
> NooElec Inc.
>
> On Wed, Nov 5, 2014 at 8:11 PM, NooElec Contact Form <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> Name: [removed]
> E-mail: [removed]
> Telephone: [removed]
>
> Comment: Hello,
> Does your new NESDR Mini 2 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P2UOU72/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00P2UOU72&linkCode=as2&tag=txtl02-20&linkId=WF4ONOBNSWPHGNUC) have the same crystal as that in a normal RTL-SDR with a normal R820T, or does it have an improved crystal? If it is improved, what are the specifications of the improved crystal?

I got my kit for $85 from amazon (raspberry pi and antenna), and you could even get it cheaper if you wanted. Here's fr24's instructions, although you may need some more help like I did setting up the raspberry pi.

The seller for the speakers is "Amazon Warehouse" so if there are any issues Amazon will take care of you. Also, I've been following the used market for these specific Polks and the other seller that pops up is usually Acoustic Sound Design which is also very solid and I've dealt with them myself. You typically don't have to worry with speakers though.

I understand the unease in purchasing a refurbished receiver though, and if that's a concern then just spend the extra $20 on this new Pioneer at Amazon.

This is probably the best tv in that range.. LG OLED https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01CDF9S1G/ref=mh_s9_acsd_simh_b73QGol_c_x_2_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-3&pf_rd_r=Q4EXQ39BNQ5YFX56KRRC&pf_rd_t=30901&pf_rd_p=e0151ba9-2977-58d7-9646-27d5ad5bd25f&pf_rd_i=6463520011

I'm using this Samsung tv that I got at target last year. We use the PS4 for all of our entertainment, gaming for me and steaming tv/bluray for her. We're happy with it, I just would have liked to get a bigger size.

Can someone explain to me the allure of these ultrawide monitors when a Samsung 40" 4k UN40KU6300 is cheaper, has a higher resolution, similar input lag, and similar dpi?

I mean, if you want, you could make your resolution a 3840x1440p band across the display for games while still having a massive desktop.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DUTL4OI

If you're buying a 4k tv to use as a monitor the key is 60 Hz and 4:4:4 chroma and a dual link dvi input or display port 1.2. I would recommend something like the ku6300. I was able to grab one for $300 from frysonline on sale. https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN40KU6300-40-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01DUTL4OI

Probably this 40" 4k Samsung for $489.

Check out the review from my favorite TV reviews site, Rtings. Trust it more than any other site.

he's the guy who needed a non-tv, just large 40+" monitor, I suspect he's not interested in paying a lot extra for Japanese broadcast tax if he's never gonna plug in into antenna/cable

edit before you tell me "oh but it's not THAT much",
see https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01DUTL4OI/
and let's see price for comparable 40" 4k in jp

You can get a 4k hdr TV for around $560 from Amazon warehouse deals Sony XBR43X800D 43-Inch 4K Ultra HD TV (2016 Model) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FWIEO2E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Wo2hyb2JQCPQX

dont think anything like this exist yet well thats40-45 range . best 2 i have seen in that size are these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FWIEO2E/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza?th=1 . https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN40KU7000-40-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01EBG6CTG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1478918808&sr=8-3&keywords=samsung%2Bku7000&th=1

Fire TV Recast, Over-the-air DVR, 500 GB, 75 hours https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J6A6H74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KvzSBbWVHNXCA

I have an antenna in my attic which hooks up to my Amazon Recast TV.

I then receive the TV broadcasts over wi-fi.

The TV box just has to be on the network - it isn't even in the living room. It could be in a closet.

I'd look into one of the OTA DVR options if you don't want cords near the TV.

• Tablo
  
• Amazon recast (if you're using a FireTV)
  
• Plex + HDHomerun
  
• Tivo Bolt
  
  Before you spend any money you could also try the paperclip.

I was using a very basic DVR for recording antenna based shows - $20 from Walmart - https://www.walmart.com/ip/AT103B-Digital-Converter-Box-with-LED-Display-Recorder-Refurbished/285612138

There are new ones which have more features but mostly like they broadcast so can watch it on mobile, iPad, etc.

Fire TV Recast gets good reviews but it is too expensive for me, but it has no additional fees at all, can even watch it outside home. https://www.amazon.com/Fire-TV-Recast-over-the-air-DVR-500GB-75-hours/dp/B01J6A6H74 Check reviews about it on Youtube, etc. I heard Recast is testing skipping Ads feature but I don't have it so I am not sure, also heard it doesn't work with Roku, only Fire streaming like Fire Stick, Fire cube, but works on mostly all phones, tablets running iOS/Android.

I personally currently use AirTV but it's software is not so nice, like it's laggy at times, etc. I bought it for like $60. https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B07BCGXZZ2/

There is Tablo and Tivo, but Tivo recently started adding extra ads on your DVRed TV shows for some reason.

Tablo can be used without fees too but some features require extra fees, check out at https://www.tablotv.com/blog/tablo-subscription-free-ota-dvr/

Lastly, there is HD Connect which you can use it with Plex, etc.

If you don't need the DVR functionality and just want to stream live tv then the HDHomerun Quatro will work for you by itself. For DVR HDHomerun has a DVR service that requires an annual subscription and a NAS device for storage. I don't recommend that.

My setup uses a quatro as the tuner and a home-built PLEX server as the DVR.


If you want an easier setup I have read about a few products Tablo, AirTV, Amazon Fire TV Recast that need a USB harddrive added for DVR function to work. One of these may be the closest you get to a plug n play answer.

Yesterday I just discovered Amazon Fire TV Recast. I don't know much about it, but it looks like a DVR similar to TiVo. Looks like it's only available for OTA.

First off, don't get the MU8000, it's much worse than even the KS8000.

The 55" X900E is so much better.

The 2016 P-series can also be had for around that price. I'd get the Sony if the room is dim to brightly lit, and I'd get the Vizio is the room is dark to normally lit.

Here you go!, it's even under budget!

Get the pendant. It’s on sale, down $30 from $69. Vue works well on it.

www.amazon.com/dp/B01N32NCPM/

The preorder link is up now: https://smile.amazon.com/All-New-Ultra-Remote-Streaming-Player/dp/B01N32NCPM

You can get a lot of bang for your buck at Part's Express to get started and then update over time. Maybe something like this sub and these satellites with this Denon to power it all. The satellites have a link to the center but it seems to fall short of the mains. You may consider stepping up on the mains and do 2.1 instead of 3.1 until you fix the placement issue.

For non gaming you might want a TV they have higher contrast.

4k budget smart TV here.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DK5PZFY

The Sony X800D is probably your best bet.

I would say if you are sitting at a desk area like me, go with the Sony 43x800d
https://www.amazon.com/Sony-XBR43X800D-43-Inch-Ultra-Model/dp/B01FWIEO2E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478270275&sr=8-1&keywords=x800d


If you are going to be in a living room area go with a 49-60 inch Samsung KS8000
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN55KS8000-55-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01C5TFLSE/ref=sr_1_2?s=tv&ie=UTF8&qid=1478270333&sr=1-2&keywords=ks8000

Sony x800d here in the US. $650 43 inch, 4k full hdr.
I went with a 49 inch ks8000 samsung, but i started out looking at these.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FWIEO2E/ref=twister_B01G89SY0E?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Also, low end lg tvs arent really 4k. They have an rgbw pixel pattern. Means 6 million colored pixels not 8 million.

http://www.hdtvtest.co.uk/news/rgbw-201510084189.htm

Here is what I have: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FWIEO2E/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Has great 4K & HDR for the Xbox One X on two out of the four HDMI ports.

• Amazon Fire Recast or Tivo Bolt OTA.

It's called the Amazon FireTV Recast.

A quick search shows similar devices (that don't include a DVR and are only available on your local network) that are compatible with more than Amazon's Fire devices and mobile apps, but reviews are all over the place and I haven't taken the time to filter out the people who write bad reviews because the devices don't do what the reviewer (incorrectly) expected them to.

Fire TV Recast, over-the-air DVR, 500 GB, 75 hours https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J6A6H74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xGqZBbBA6C4QH

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J6A6H74/

It's probably this: https://www.amazon.com/Fire-TV-Recast-over-the-air-DVR-500GB-75-hours/dp/B01J6A6H74

Lets you record stuff, then play it back with your FireTV Stick.

$1298 on amazon.ca now. Same price at Best Buy.

the 55" sony x900e is 998 right now off amazon

looking to buy a new TV. I'm settled on 55 in LED 4k. I want to spend $500 - $1000. It needs to last me a long time as I don't plan on upgrading for a while. Last one I bought was a 42 in plasma about 5-6 years ago and its still fine never had any issues.

Is black friday probably the best time to buy? Cyber monday? I'm hoping to find the best deal on amazon since i have some points on there i was saving. I originally was looking at this:TCL 55S405 55-Inch because of the price and reviews. but after looking at some other sites I was leaning more towards one of these through Amazon Warehouse:

• Sony XBR55X900E
  
• Samsung UN55MU9000
  
• Samsung Electronics UN55MU8000
  
  Is there a good subreddit for this?
  
  EDIT: BTW, I do not game on my TVs. Primarily TV/Netflix/kids movies and some sports

I mean the first TV is complete shit and the second TV is the most shit TV LG sells thats 4k and HDR.

It seems you want the biggest screen for least amount of money and dont really care about spec.

The Sony x900e is the set to buy if you arent going for oled.

65" is $1500

https://www.amazon.com/Sony-XBR65X900E-65-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01MZF81NS

If you just want to spend $1000 then youre better off buying it in a 55" size

https://www.amazon.com/Sony-XBR55X900E-55-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01MUG21R7

Why?

Best lighting system (full array) after oled technology, very good peak brightness for HDR (1billion colors v 18million, to see top end of these colors you need lots of brightness, and control over zones, the full array part, edge like you are looking at dont go as bright nor break screen down into controllable zones)

Let's see what the market looks like:

• $599 - Samsung 55" 4K
  
  
• $700 - LG 55" 4K
  
  
• $400 - LG 55" 4K
  
  
• $600 - LG 55" 4K
  
  
• $575 - Samsung 55" 4K
  
  
• $650 - Samsung 55" 4K
  
  
• $600 - Sony 55" 4K
  
  
• ~$590 - AVERAGE
  
  But you're asking for $1300? Sorry man, I'm sure your TV is great, but the used market is really bad for TVs.
  
  
• Source
  
  To top it off, anyone could buy your same TV as brand new for the same price you are trying to sell it for! You might want to seriously consider shopping around before you buy another TV.
  
  
• Source
  
  Looks like you bought right before the price took a huge drop:
  
  
• Source
  
  Good luck selling your TV for anything over $600.

XBR55X900E

https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/comments/88e96z/monitor_sony_xbr55x900e_55_4k_uhd_smart_led_tv/

I live in CA, so I had to pay tax. Otherwise, it'd have been $740ish. Mine was "Used - Like New" and came factory sealed with everything still in the original packaging. It looks like there's a "Used- Very Good" one for $873.25 -20%.

Oh well check this out,

TCL 43S405 43-Inch 4K Ultra HD Roku Smart LED TV (2017 Model) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N29XPO3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LKYLAbE1CXJEF

120hz 43 inch 4K, not sure what u mean when u say cheap but this one is $320, about the same price as a high end 1440p gaming monitor. Finding a gpu that can run this smoothly is where ur dishing out cash now

TCL 43S405 43-Inch 4K Ultra HD Roku Smart LED TV (2017 Model) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N29XPO3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Rj9VBbMX4NNM3

Why not a TV that is also HDR capable? https://www.amazon.com/TCL-43S405-43-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01N29XPO3/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1538706676&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=4k+hdr+tv&dpPl=1&dpID=51xTjwmi4lL&ref=plSrch

I use the TCL 43S05 as my PS4 pro monitor and my PC monitor. All text is super easy to read on PC, it displays perfect.

Absolutely love it and got it for $299 from amazon! Low input lag for a TV compared to more expensive ones. All three HDMI inputs are hdmi 2.0.

It doesn't have wide color gamut but all I see is a wicked picture.

some info:
https://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/tcl/s-series-4k-2017-s405

It's 299 right now as well.
https://www.amazon.com/TCL-43S405-43-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01N29XPO3/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1521567164&sr=8-2&keywords=tcl+43s405&dpID=41QXKzR3FJL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Sure.







https://www.amazon.com/TCL-43S405-43-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01N29XPO3/ref=sr_1_3?s=tv&ie=UTF8&qid=1501785814&sr=1-3&keywords=4k+tv








Its actually 43 inches, originally 380 but on sale right now for 350. I was thinking about getting it for a bit, but yknow, college and all that. Plus I'm fine with the monitor I can bring for now.







Sophomore year though, once I move off campus, you better believe I'm whipping out that bad boy.

All models of the S401/403/405 series are similar in terms of features, specs, etc. regardless of size. They offer a 28", 32", and 40" (in 720p/1080p HD, not 4k) as well as the 43", 49", 55" and 65" versions in 4k.

http://www.tclusa.com/products/home-theater/s-series

https://www.amazon.com/TCL-43S405-43-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01N29XPO3/


Edit: Had the info about the smaller sizes wrong. Apparently, they don't have 4k when under 43".

I would avoid all sticks and expresses from everyone, the lack of ram really shows up on dtvn.

The fire tv pendant (2017 edition) has a good amount of ram and is on sale for 49.99 today.

https://www.amazon.com/all-new-amazon-fire-tv-4k-uhd-streaming-media-player/dp/B01N32NCPM

You can also get it free for 1 month pre-pay:

https://www.directvnow.com/firetv

You can get an apple tv (5th gen) for 3 months pre pay:

https://www.directvnow.com/appletv


remember to keep spectrum running while they test so you don't have to go through the hassle of re-activating the spectrum if they hate it.

Wow... I think I know what streaming device I’m gonna buy... But to be clear, the FTV you have is this one, right?

You have the stick version of FireTV, which look like a usb drive almost, then you have the newest model, which looks like a Cube, then you have the device model which replaces the FireTV box like models, which now looks like a 'dongle'.

https://www.amazon.com/all-new-amazon-fire-tv-4k-uhd-streaming-media-player/dp/B01N32NCPM

>I notice that Amazon doesn't offer a new version of the box, only dongles now?

This is the new version, it's as powerful as the box, just connects to the TV differently. Not a fan of it hanging from the HDMI port, myself.

>ethernet

You can use their Ethernet adapter with the new pendant-style FireTV devices.

I wish the Roku interface didn't suck so much, I'd like to move away from Amazon due to their pissing contest with Google.

AND ALSO - Amazon just announced it's new Fire TV device: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N32NCPM/ref=ods_smp_se_d_needle_prostr

Fire TV does not support AirPlay, but it does support Google Cast.

The Fire TV box you're referring to was discontinued yesterday and seemingly replaced with a less powerful device, which does not have Gigabit Ethernet. They did add HDR10 though. There are rumors that the box that will really replace the Fire TV box is still coming, but there's nothing available right now.

I've got a very similar setup. I use a QNAP TS-431p for network storage, and a 7700k that runs my Plex server. Streaming directly to my x900e even over ethernet was not always smooth. I found that streaming to a FireTV or Apple TV worked much better. While the x900e is an awesome TV, I don't think the CPU they used is powerful enough, even to just run the Android OS. There are tweaks you can do to the TV though, like set it to developer mode and then go turn lots of background services off that you don't need, which will help speed things up.

My suggestion is to buy a FireTV 4k and try that out. If it doesn't work, you can always return it.

You may also want to make sure that slower wireless devices are not connected to your faster wireless SSID.

You sure ... The new FireTV is on sale in the states for 49.99 ... :


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N32NCPM/ref=as_at?creativeASIN=B01N32NCPM&linkCode=w61&imprToken=C001EJP8QGtxytUElz1jQA&slotNum=1&tag=b0c55-20

Looking at the manual for your AV reviever: "Audio signals received by the HDMI IN jacks are output only by the HDMI OUT (Pass-Thru). HDMI sources are not output by the speakers connected to the AV receiver." Sorry to tell you this but that AVR is a piece of crap with respect to HDMI functionality.

So your options are:

1. Live with stereo output from the TV and forget about DTS and LPCM 5.1
   
2. Buy an audio extractor with optical out
   
3. Buy a modern AVR (example: https://www.amazon.com/Denon-AVR-S540BT-Bluetooth-Compatible-Streaming/dp/B07C49F2LD/ )
   
   Option 2 is a waste of money. I'd go with option 3. Shop around some local AV stores you might be able to get something cheaper if money is tight. Even a used one that's a few years old would be better than what you have.

Look for a used stereo or AV receiver then start with a pair of new or used passive bookshelf speakers. The MB42X are passive speakers you could add to a receiver though I would look for something larger than 4" for use with a TV in a living room.

Most AV receivers in the last 15 years will have a subwoofer output and a high pass crossover for the speakers. You may be able to find a used pre-4k receiver for around $100 since many owners have upgraded to 4K. Denon, Yamaha, Onkyo, Pioneer, Sony, Marantz.

You can add Bluetooth to anything with an Aux input with a $20 bluetooth receiver. Or a Chromecast for use with HDMI or the Dayton Audio WBA31 has a WiFi internet music steaming app, Apple Airplay and Bluetooth.

New AV receiver examples:

• Denon AV Receiver Audio & Video Component Black (AVRS540BT)
  
• Yamaha Bluetooth AV Receiver Audio Component Black (RXV385 B)
  
  Home Theater Guides: r/HTBuyingGuides FAQ • How to Set Up a Basic Home Theater System - Lifewire • How to Set Up Your Home Theater Receiver • Speaker Placement for Home Theater
  
  Home Audio Guides: Intro to home stereo systems • Zeos Tutorials, Diagrams and Videos • r/Audiophile Getting Started • Beginner's Guide to Home Audio • AverageJoeAudiophile's Guides • Speaker Placement for Stereo Music Listening

Do you know of any others that would be able to power the A3's properly? I've been searching google/amazon but haven't found anything.

Edit: Continued looking around, didn't find anything that looked promising. After reading more, I think I'm just going to bite the bullet and run the two cables where they need to go. I think I'm going to go with a this Denon receiver-

https://www.amazon.com/Denon-AVR-S540BT-Bluetooth-Compatible-Streaming/dp/B07C49F2LD/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1543267116&sr=1-3&keywords=denon+s540bt

Looks like it provides 140w per channel which looks to be sufficient for the Polk RTiA3 speakers.

If you only want 2 speakers, an entry level receiver would work great:

https://www.amazon.com/Denon-Receiver-Audio-Component-AVRS540BT/dp/B07C49F2LD/ref=dp_ob_title_ce

https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-Bluetooth-Component-Receiver-RX-V385BL/dp/B07BNXXJKB

These are very simple bare bones models. Easy to use.

Thank you for your comment! Should I go with this: https://www.amazon.com/TCL-43S425-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B07DK5PZFY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=TCL%2B4k&qid=1565230614&s=gateway&sr=8-3&th=1

or try to snag that Visio D50u-d1 i mentioned in my post?

Ahh :( well if you're ever looking for a new TV I have this one and it's super good for gaming. The input lag is really low. And it's cheap

TCL 43S425 43 Inch 4K Ultra HD Smart Roku LED TV (2018) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DK5PZFY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_dhMIDbZA00D5X

Nevermind, I can post several links obviously

Indoor Outdoor Projector Screen,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F1VLRZ6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

J-Tech Digital Ultra HD 4K HDMI to HDMI + Audio (Spdif + RCA Stereo) Audio Extractor Converter(Support Apple TV 4 Gen) Premium Quality https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YHS5E6Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_G8ZdIxDbFbxhh

VANKYO Leisure 510 Full HD Projector with 3600 Lux, Video Projector with 200" Projection Size, Support 1080P HDMI VGA AV USB with Free HDMI Cable and Carrying Bag https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G2Y5LX9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MxYBCbDMFNHW7

Jeteven Polyester Hanging... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075WWRRZV?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

AUKEY Table Lamp, Touch Sensor... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AJ7F14I?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Mini Dj Disco Ball Party Stage... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074RKPSDK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Sennheiser HD 579 Open Back... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L1IIF1K?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Flash Furniture High Back Black... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012JJ2EEY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

P3 P4330 Kill A Watt Ps 10 Surge... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004OG94VW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

LG 29WK600-W 29" UltraWide 21:9... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078GL93KG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Onkyo TX-SR373 5.2 Channel A/V Receiver with Bluetooth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XVGCBZ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kCYBCbJTN8QJ1

Polk Audio T15 100 Watt Home Theater Bookshelf Speakers (Pair) - Premium Sound at a Great Value | Dolby and DTS Surround | Wall-Mountable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002RJLHB8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OCYBCbX2TX5XM

Polk Audio PSW10 10" Powered Subwoofer - Featuring High Current Amp and Low-Pass Filter | Up to 100 Watts | Big Bass at a Great Value | Easy integration Home Theater Systems https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KVQBA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mDYBCbWN7VD6T

TCL 43S425 43 Inch 4K Ultra HD Smart Roku LED TV (2018) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DK5PZFY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3DYBCbZ7TGJ9X

Plus an Asus rog laptop gtx 1060 16gb ram, two ps3s, Corsair hs60 headphones, vmoda Crossfade wireless, a Google chromecast

I have not seen that one in person. I do like the Fire TV interface, though I use Youtube TV which is not on that platform, so Roku serves my needs better.

​

However, I just got this TCL / Roku one a few weeks back. So far it's very good for the price: TCL 43S425 43 Inch 4K Ultra HD Smart Roku LED TV (2018) . It's $249 on Amazon.

​

Good luck.

Is the mi box s a good option?

Also is this a nice tv? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07DK5PZFY/ref=dp_ob_neva_mobile?th=1&psc=1

You'd need an amplifier to power those speakers. Something like either of these would work:

Cheap Option

Better Quality

You could also consider buying a package deal like:

Speakers + Amplifier

or if you don't want to spend a lot of money, you could do something like:

Micro Amp

with these

Inexpensive pair of speakers

I recently bought this Onkyo surround sound system from Amazon. Really nice system for the price. Very happy with it. Has great reviews by several others as you'll see...

Onkyo HT-S3500 5.1-Channel Home Theater Speaker/Receiver Package by Onkyo http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0077V88V8/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_kvmhtb0A03FDF

You could do a lot worse than this Onkyo system. I have a similar set up and it's fantastic.

http://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-HT-S3500-5-1-Channel-Theater-Receiver/dp/B0077V88V8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414424716&sr=8-1&keywords=onkyo+home+theater+system

The system i've shown above is more for music than movies.
For movies, seeing how you need an audio/video receiver and that budget ... i'd do something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-HT-S3500-5-1-Channel-Theater-Receiver/dp/B0077V88V8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420683425&sr=8-1&keywords=onkyo+HTIB

Even if you don't want all 5 speakers you can just make it work with 3 and subwoofer. It will still be better than the sound bar.

Also ... I bought this unit for my parents for Xmas and it was $289, which would fit your budget. So maybe give it a few weeks till it drops in price again.

What about this? It doesn't have BluRay but it has all 6 speakers and does Linear PCM as well as Dolby True HD, as well as 4 HDMI in and 1 HDMI out.

http://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-HT-S3500-5-1-Channel-Theater-Receiver/dp/B0077V88V8/ref=lp_281056_1_2?s=tv&ie=UTF8&qid=1382233868&sr=1-2

Nice! I'm currently saving for a Micca MB42X, a Muse M50 amp, and a Dayton Audio SUB-800. Around $200.

You need an amp. Lepai cheap but expect cheap ;). Don't get me wrong, the lepai will work for most people. Minimum /r/audiophile recommends is the muse a little above your price but worth it if you like good sound. Next you need something like this to hook your soundcard up to your amp. Then some speaker wire to wire the rest.

So it would go soundcard -> amp -> subwoofer (left and right) -> speakers (left and right).

Have fun!

You'll get a HUGE upgrade in sound quality if you stick with a 2.0 setup and don't need either particularly deep nor prominent bass. Klipsch makes some great speakers for music and home theater applications, and are really sensitive so any good amp can drive them with no problem.

If you don't have a good surface to place them on, you'll also need speaker stands, or you can just avoid that and get floorstanding speakers. Polk Audio and Klipsch are still my first choices in that price range, as they both reach pretty damn low without a sub and are bright and detailed, going well with home theater applications. Either with an amp, however, might be a little above your price range.

Do some research. Poke around and read some reviews. You may not like bright speakers - it also may turn out that you really don't like the kind of fudgey Bose sound, either.

What sounds good to you?

Two of these would be the "best".

This guy would be formidable.

This is all you need to make it hot.

This can run the things but be careful not to blow your speakers with clipping.

I was looking for the same thing. I couldn't find anything great. The only one I considered was the SteelSeries one, but it's pretty expensive. Edit: It looks like this Nyko one gets good reviews and has decent reviews.

I went the Xbox 360 route but only so that I could do multiplayer on it, and because of potential controller lag (I hook mine up to the TV). Consider it if you want to eventually do that.

There is a USB adapter on Amazon that gives you two ports. Another thing that could free up the USB port is a 64gb SD card. That's were I currently put my Steam games.

No problem. I bought an amazon fire tv stick for $20 (like a chromecast only with more RAM/processor) and threw on a bunch of android emulators and hooked up this controller to it: http://www.amazon.com/Playpad-Android-Bluetooth-PC-Mac-Linux/dp/B0092ZEINO/

I actually have a bunch of retro systems but they don't look good without the emulators upscaling and this way I just need one device plugged in instead of having a bunch of power bricks plugged in using electricity.

There are cheaper versions of that with fewer buttons and such which would be fine for retro games. I also play android FPS' and all the free games i've gotten from amazon's appstore app of the day (like Terraria!) so I got the Pro one with more buttons.

This is what I got, http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0092ZEINO/ref=cm_sw_r_an_am_ap_am_us?ie=UTF8

It only works on 4.1 for whatever reason, but my favorite ROM is 4.1 so I don't mind. If you don't like that, just search android blue tooth controllers, I found quite a few.

Nyko PlayPad Pro and Gamesir G3s.

Any Bluetooth controller should work, I use https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0092ZEINO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bought this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0092ZEINO/

and im loving it. Using it on a straight up android box but no reason why it shouldn't work both on FireTV box and FireTV Stick.

Don't get the the other "newer" version for FireTV, just get this one.

I bought this one which works: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0092ZEINO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

I'll condense all my information to this reply. A box like this is what you are looking for. It will take your SPDIF input and convert it to the 3 cable setup you currently have. Those 3 ports on the left will be the green black and orange cables you are using.

Now if you can't find that exact model in germany (with the 3 connectors on the left side that you need) then you can use any converter that takes your SPDIF input and outputs it to those red and white connectors. You can use those connectors with cables like these. That will give you the connectors you need to hook them up to your green black orange cables. The FL, CEN, SUB etc markings underneath each plug represent what channel they are. You use those extra cables you bought and hook them up accordingly into your logitech set.

EDIT: Something like this will work as well. That just eliminates the red/white plugs you dont need. But it has the 3 green/black/orange cables you need. They are marked underneath, just not color coded like your surround sound is. It will work fine.

Sounds like you are looking for something like this. I've never used this particular box, so please read the reviews so you understand any shortcomings before you buy, but based on your description, it sounds like you want to convert digital surround to analog, which is what this box does.

You need a DAC (digital to analog converter) that can decode the 5.1 signal from the optical cable and turn it into line-level outputs.

This one would work as long as all your sources are in AC3 or Dolby DTS format: https://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Audio-Digital-Decoder-Converter/dp/B00AMC2J1Y/

I don't know how good the quality will be, but chances are with the kind of lower end speakers that use 3.5mm 5.1 inputs you won't notice.

Well my advice would be to try and sell it and get something better. But, if you don't want to do that, and you have an optical or digital output, [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Audio-Digital-Decoder-Converter/dp/B00AMC2J1Y) should create the right inputs for you.

https://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Audio-Digital-Decoder-Converter/dp/B00AMC2J1Y

Something like that should work.

I just bought this one (new) for $229 - watch the price, as it will go up and down often.
http://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-RX-V375-Receiver-Discontinued-Manufacturer/dp/B00B981F38
Check out thewirecutter.com - there are some recommendations for a/v receivers on there.

Any idea on how to hook up x12s if you have your Xbox One hooked up to a receiver? I have it hooked up to this receiver:
http://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-RX-V375-Channel-Theater-Receiver/dp/B00B981F38/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394315092&sr=8-1&keywords=yamaha+5.1+receiver+3d

any basic home theater receiver will work for you.

an entry level models:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007O5ATM8/

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A659J88/

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B981F38/


id [probably take the pioneer from this range.

i wouldnt bother with the soundbar unless you've got a second tv somewhere that could use something.

So I plan on grabbing these but do you know if it would pair well with this Yamaha receiver?

I'm also in the market for a sub and maybe a center channel. Do you have any recommendations?

This is my setup: <$500

Speakers: http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Premium-5-1-Channel-Subwoofer-110565/dp/B00EOZFUYI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415817526&sr=8-1&keywords=monoprice+5.1

Receiver:http://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-RX-V375-Channel-Theater-Receiver/dp/B00B981F38/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1415817564&sr=1-1&keywords=yamaha+receiver

Mounts: http://www.amazon.com/VideoSecu-Deluxe-Speaker-Brackets-Ceilings/dp/B001QNBUA4/ref=pd_sim_pc_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1CCSPSBWG7NW9A5PJJ5Q

You might be able to fix this for even cheaper than my other solution. You just need a receiver with outputs. This one might work and is cheaper than the other:
http://www.amazon.com/Marantz-NR1403-5-1-Channel-Theater-Receiver/dp/B0081N916M/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1419658835&sr=8-2&keywords=home+theater+preamp

This one might work too for even cheaper, also with room to grow:
http://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-RX-V375-Channel-Theater-Receiver/dp/B00B981F38/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419658942&sr=8-1&keywords=receiver

You could go even cheaper if you buy one for stereo, but you said you eventually wanted to upgrade to surround sound. Both of these options will give you room to grow into surround and you can keep using the AV-30s. I would pick a Yamaha Aventage receiver. I've liked them enough that I'm going to buy the Aventage preamp for my home theater.

Are the pre-outs required because my speakers are powered? I was eyeing the Yamaha RX-V375-R but it looks like this receiver doesn't offer that, in fact, most receivers in my price range don't. Could you clarify what this is used for and what's the worst that could happen if I pair my powered speakers with a unit that doesn't have pre-out?

It's a little rough around the edges as far as cabling goes, but I'm not 100% set on where my gear is going to go. For now its on a bookshelf opposite the screen. Once I use the room a bit and get a feel for things I'll move the outlet closer to the projector and fish a HDMI cable through the wall/ceiling instead of going across the ceiling.

Edit:
Equipment List:



Equipment| Model
---|---
Projector | Optoma HD26
Screen | Elite Screens 135" Sable Frame
Mount | Cheetah APMEB Universal Mount
Receiver | Yamaha RX-V375
Speakers | Yamaha NS-SP1800BL

With something like this. You just plug the antenna into it, and run HDMI from it to the Xbox.

You might be able to replace your converter box with something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Multi-function-Digital-Converter-Box-Recording/dp/B00BFIJQ10

Your best bet is going to be able to run the antenna into your TV and have an optical out from your TV to your receiver.

Otherwise, you're looking at getting an external OTA tuner -- something like this -- which would be even more of a pain IMO.

Edit: This looks like it would be a 2nd option for an OTA tuner, and it's a little cheaper. Still not as cheap as the optical cable, and still more of a pain.

Like you I don't have cable either, but I'm still planning on purchasing the Xbox One. I'll either use it with an OTA antenna or my 360. To use it with an OTA antenna I'm looking at a digital converter box that has HDMI out. I found one on Amazon... http://www.amazon.com/iView-3500STB-DTV-Converter-Box/dp/B00BFIJQ10/

If you're going down this route for a setup that includes multiple TVs, you'd really have to cut the cable cord entirely. If you switch to local channels only through ClearQAM and/or OTA, WMC and MCEBuddy will work without any problems.

I have done this exact thing with a few small changes:

• First, my main TV views the HTPC/WMC directly and handles all recording from a couple HDHomeRun Duals hooked to Verizon ClearQAM. The HTPC also runs Plex Media Server.
  
• Other TVs have two devices each - a Roku with Plex app and an OTA settop box (generic). This way I can watch live TV from antenna and recorded TV from Plex as well as the media library and Amazon Prime, Hulu, Netflix, etc.
  
  Its an extra $140 for additional TV (Roku + STB) but I don't have to deal with incompatibilities, multi-channel audio issues on HDMI, etc.
  
  For control, I use Harmony 650s.

I am not on mobile, so here's /u/DrFate09's link: http://www.reddit.com/r/xboxone/comments/1x09s6/solution_for_oneguide_functionality_for_coaxial/

With HDMI, this is a tough one. Ideally you'll want a analog-to-digital box that can do both ATSC Digital and has QAM capability. Again, it must have QAM capability if you plan on using it with a cable provider and not an OTA signal. You will be able to plug in the coax cable into the box and be able to watch all unscrambled digital broadcasts alongside any OTA ATSC digital signal. You'll want something like the following:

http://amzn.com/B00BFIJQ10

http://amzn.com/B00FL3324W

Will it work with Time Warner? I have no idea as I don't know what they scramble or don't scramble via analog.

You can blame many recent users assuming that due to the Roku 3. It has a headphone jack in the remote so you can watch/listen to the TV without disturbing anyone else in the room.

You need a $100 Roku 3.

If you get a Chromecast, Roku or gaming console you could use HBO Go on your TV.

Or just hook up your PC to your TV as a second monitor and use HBO on your PC.

If your TV doesn't have HBO Go app then you can't get it.

Some options..

Roku 3 with Plex

WDTV

*Raspberry Pi w/ Raspbmc

I think you should treat yourself by buying the Roku player. That way, you can watch ALL of the episodes of Parks and Rec, Doctor Who, Game of Thrones, and anything else your heart desires on the largest TV you own!

As for how I'd treat myself, I would buy either this motivational tank or this nerdy one because I've gotten really good at getting exercise into my weekly schedule (I have a 2 hour boxing class, a 45 minute Soul Cycle class, as well as one or two 3-mile walks). Plus, I've lost a good amount of weight so far and I would like to look good while breaking a sweat!

The hardware that makes a Smart TV "smart" costs precisely 1/3rd of what a Roku3 costs http://www.amazon.com/Roku-3-Streaming-Media-Player/dp/B00BGGDVOO/ because of Bulk, No case/remote, factory direct install parts, etc.. So for <$30 in parts those features are added. I doubt they even tack it onto the retail cost.

Smart TV's come standard and WE ALL HATE THEM..

Stop arguing about it. It is just part of the landscape now. Get use to it or go Projector.

You can buy directly from Amazon these days. And as for power supply it supports 240 so you can just buy an adaptor if you don't want to shell out for a new one.

Edit: amazon link for roku on sale. AUD$97 shipped.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BGGDVOO

This works a lot better when you're living alone...

Desktop? Ideally, you have some decent speakers -- that alone means you want it in a room away from where other people are trying to work, talk on the phone, or watch TV. Even if you have headphones, that just turns the problem around -- you'd probably like to play uninterrupted by people on the phone or watching TV.

Laptop? Those still seem to cost twice as much as a desktop with equivalent specs. I've given up on using that for gaming. But otherwise, you've got the same problem, the only difference is that you can move to a different room (if you're using headphones) -- but if there isn't a dedicated gaming room, you may find that all rooms are occupied.

Xbox? If that's plugged into the living room TV, the one everyone else uses to watch TV/Netflix/etc, you now have to take turns -- no one can watch a movie while you're playing a game, and vice versa. And this goes double if the living room is used for anything else.

Realistically, those aren't terrible compromises, and if you watch Netflix (despite what Netflix does), having an Xbox in the living room saves you... $100 or so. But it'd still be nice to have a gaming room that you can use for other things (like movies) than shared rooms that you can sometimes use for gaming.

Umm well... the Roku 3 is pretty cool ;)

I hunted about for a bit, and a chap posted this on a whirlpool forum:

"My aim was to get access to Coronation Street as cheaply as possible and so began a variable nooobs journey that ended up with a Roku 3 box, watching Hulu Plus, Hbo Go and UK Tv.

Don't know if what I did will be of use to anyone but this forum gave me a lot of help to get there so I’m posting this in the hope it might help someone else.

1. Signup for the TPG unlimited $59/month plan
   This in itself was a bit of a nightmare but that’s a TPG story! I signed up for this because I didn't want to be worried about data usage.
   
   
2. Bought Roku 3 box from Amazon – US$110.96 inc shipping to Oz
   http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BGGDVOO/ref=ox_ya_os_product
   Took 7 days to arrive.
   
   
3. Got the Unotelly Premium subscription – US$48/year
   I used their UnoDNS option – they provide two Sydney options.
   I got the one week trial first to see how it worked. When you sign up for the trial they allocate you the Gold membership but unless you need a few extra features, which I didn't, the Premium plan is a bit cheaper.
   http://www.unotelly.com/unodns/pricing
   
   
4. Setup my router with the UnoDNS settings.
   
   At this stage I could access all the Roku 3 non-subscription channels. No buffering, great quality picture and sound...excellent.
   
   
5. Signed up for Hulu Plus. US$7.99/month
   Now...after doing a lot of reading about how others got access (because Hulu Plus insist you are in the US, using a US credit card to signup) I bought the power seller voucher from http://www.buyfrompowerseller.com/hulu-plus-outside-the-us/
   
   I chose the Hulu Plus outside the US prepaid card which cost $68.99 USD for a Hula Plus card value of $50. So really I paid $18.99 to access the service and it did work (Power seller provides instruction on what to do). Thanks to Unotelly I’ve since found out about Entropay https://www.entropay.com service and am using them because it’s cheaper.
   
   I don't know whether I need to do this but to create my Hulu Plus account I use a free 2 day VPN trial from Purevpn.com. This gave the impression I was in the US when signing up for an account, be aware that the purevpn.com trial only gives you 5x5 minutes access session over the two day trial.
   
   
6. HBO Go
   I feel I could write a book about this! Basically you can't sign up for a HBO Go account unless you have a cable subscription in the US however...you can signup for HBO Nordic http://hbonordic.com/home which gives you access to the same shows I believe. Roku box doesn't support HBO nordic from what I can figure out so I’ve been streaming it via my laptop to the TV – works fine and Unotelly has a setting for it. I found the videos in HD buffered but not in SD.
   
   I signed up for one month to see how it was. I think it worked out at AU$15 for the month but AU$12/month if you take it out for one year.
   
   
7. UK TV
   The US Roku 3 does not have any UK channels (you need a UK Roku for that which in turn doesn't have many uS channels) Many people recommend using Plex to access the BBC player but to be honest I found Plex buggy and unsupported for after a day dedicated to trying to get it to work I uninstalled it and went to for the simpler option of streaming ITV, BBC, C4 and loads of other stuff via UnoTelly channels, and attaching my laptop via a hdmi cable to my TV and watching Coro on that. Mission accomplished.
   
   Approx Costs in Australia dollars:
   US Roku 3 – $110
   Unotelly subscription: $48/year
   Hulu Plus – $96/year
   HBO Go – $144/year
   UK TV – included in cost of Unotelly
   
   There are tonnes of sports and other channels to access for free and subscription; the above just reflect my interest and you can end you subscriptions at any time.
   
   I'm not an expert; I stumbled through the above, so hopefully the above may help someone else."
   
   
   THOUGHTS?

As little as possible. The more crap you have, the more it weighs you down.
That said, every home needs some necessities to get by. For me those generally involve cooking, sleeping, and repairs. I just finished watching Parks & Rec and am in a bit of a Ron Swanson mood.

For the kitchen (all recommended by America's Test Kitchen):

Victorinox 8" Chef's Knife

Victorinox Paring knife

CDN Instant Read Thermometer

Lodge 12" skillet - cheap and will last you forever

Crockpot, 6qt - the one kitchen appliance I'd cheat with. Easy delicious meals. Toss in a cheap cut of meat (chuck roast, etc), salt, pepper, garlic, onions, carrots, whatever. Let it sit for 6-8 hours. Dinner for 3 meals.

Tools:

I'd probably just pick up a cheap set of craftsman stuff (screwdrivers, hammer, sockets, pliers). Splurge on the ratchet and any power tools you need:

Bahco 3/8" ratchet - same as snapon F80 at 1/2 the price

Other misc. tools that are quite handy:

Magnetic stud finder - in a new place you're going to be hanging pictures, installing shelving, and mounting curtain rods. These are dirt cheap and super convenient.

Multimeter - Flukes will last you for life. If you need to do any electrical work, these are great. If you don't want to splurge up front just borrow them or buy a cheap $15 one at home depot.

Bedroom:

Get comfortable pillows and nice sheets. Don't get all caught up in the 1000 thread count crap, it's a hoax. Just get at least 400tc or so, and preferably egyptian or pima cotton. My favorite sheets are actually a super cheapo brand that are 60% cotton 40% polyester. I prefer them because they feel more "smooth and cool" rather than "soft and warm".

Obviously get real furniture: dresser, bed with headboard, etc.

Electronics

I won't go into too much detail here, but consider cutting the cord (/r/cordcutters).

A cheap Roku3 + netflix + an OTA antenna can go a long way.

If you have a lot of pictures/media/etc, don't forget about backups. I'd look into an inexpensive NAS, or at least a USB harddrive. They are dirt cheap and worth the insurance.

Insurance

Lastly, don't forget renters or homeowners insurance. If you are renting, you can get rather good coverage for quite cheap. I just paid around $50 for 12 months of coverage on my apartment ($15k coverage, $1k deductible). I shopped around at 5 different places and Amica came out the cheapest by FAR.

Other than that, you don't need much. Buy less crap. Don't buy some $50 automatic electronic wine opener when a $1 wine key will do the job. Same for a can opener.

I am moving into a new basement HT situation next month and I keep coming back to this screen:

STR-169120 Silver Ticket 120" Diagonal 16:9 4K Ultra HD Ready HDTV (6 Piece Fixed Frame) Projector Screen White Material https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CYLOTPK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tahDDb1NJTPPE

It’s very budget friendly too. I can’t help too much with the projector part though, my budget in that area is different. You could check the frequently bought together, they have screen + mount + projector for under 1k. It’s a Benq projector but I haven’t fully reviewed it.


*also, you may want to include room dimensions as well. It can help with recommendations.


Edit: I just haven’t spent time looking at projectors in that budget area, there are plenty more equipped to make a proper recommendation in that area.

They are the best value in screens. You can get better but at 5-10x the cost. STR-169120 Silver Ticket 120" Diagonal 16:9 4K Ultra HD Ready HDTV (6 Piece Fixed Frame) Projector Screen White Material https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CYLOTPK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qq4aBbWT7EXWD

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CYLOTPK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

lol

I built my own, tore it while moving, and then bought this one. It's perfect. It took 10 minutes to assemble with included tool.

To get Ethernet and analog output, you're best bet is (alas) a Roku Ultra -- it has an Ethernet port and an optical audio output that you can convert to RCA via a box like this one https://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-HD8023-Digital-Optical-Converter/dp/B00KCRYIWM.

If you could use Wifi, you could go with a Roku Express+ (only at Walmart) which has A/V outputs, but no Ethernet port.

What you want is to use the optical digital out on your ps4 and connect something like
https://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-Digital-Analog-Converter-Adapter/dp/B00KCRYIWM
the required cable https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Digital-Optical-Audio-Toslink/dp/B00NH11H38

Thanks for your quick replies! Do you think my static will disappear then, considering it is now a digital output from my motherboard first?

Also, do you think this will do just as well? I'm suggesting this one because of the 3.5mm jack, as I already have an adapter for that to go into my speakers, and will just save having to get additional cables.

If you already have speakers lying around you can use this http://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-Digital-Analog-Converter-Adapter/dp/B00KCRYIWM/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1452757272&sr=8-8&keywords=optical+speakers

Basically you hook Xbox to this with optical, then your speakers to the other side if this with 3.5mm or rca cables.

Otherwise you can get a pair of speakers with an optical audio port to connect direct to the Xbox for about 50-60$ starting on average.

If it's a modern TV it probably doesn't have RCA Audio Outputs, but only RCA Audio Inputs, which may be why what you are doing seems to be working in reverse.

Most manufacturers have pretty much have done away with RCA Audio Outputs and only have a Toslink (Optical) Audio Output. I've had to help a lot of people with this quirk.

Check to see if your TV has one of these on the back of it somewhere.

https://s13.postimg.org/wlyc6f3fr/toslink.jpg

If so then you will need one of these...

https://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-HD8023-Optical-Digital-Converter/dp/B00KCRYIWM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1480004432&sr=8-3&keywords=toslink+optical+audio+to+3.5mm+jack

one of these...

https://www.amazon.com/iXCC-Tangle-Free-Auxiliary-Connectors-Smartphones/dp/B00KWR8ME2/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1480006007&sr=8-6&keywords=3.5+cable

and one of these.

https://www.amazon.com/BlueRigger-Digital-Optical-Audio-Toslink/dp/B005LJQMZC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1480005399&sr=8-4&keywords=toslink+optical+cable

Ignore the Coaxial and RCA ports and connect the unit from your TV to your speakers like this.

https://s14.postimg.org/l13ju2ppt/61_FZuvwmw_XL_SL1000.jpg

Otherwise I don't know how to help you.

Try this but it doesn't come with a TOSLINK cable so that's extra but has both RCA and 3.5mm
http://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-Digital-Analog-Converter-Adapter/dp/B00KCRYIWM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1426758151&sr=8-4&keywords=digital+audio+converter

Here's the TOSLINK cable you'd need to connect that DAC to the Xbox One.
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Digital-Optical-Audio-Toslink/dp/B001TH7GSW/ref=pd_bxgy_e_img_y

The frequency range on the USB stick is from 24MHz-1750MHz. I have a quadcopter with a 15 minute flight time, 500 meter range that receives signals at 2.4Ghz, and am looking into getting an ultra-light weight video camera + transmitter that transmits at 5.8Ghz. The dongle wouldn't be able to detect the signals and at several hundred feet in the noise would be inaudible.

Sure, you might be able to detect military drones but if you're going to be worried about drones you should be worried about consumer ones more than military ones. Very few people have access to military drones and chances are a Predator drone isn't going to do an airstrike on you.

Receiver - $101 used

Speakers - $48 used

Total - $149. And you have sound with actual definition.

Personally I have a Pioneer (older version of this) and I love it. It's in your price range too, but it doesn't do Zone 2 or anything like that.

A good receiver will automatically switch the input for you when it detects a signal. All Home Theater A/V receivers have remotes and optical inputs. Here is a good entry level pioneer that would do everything you are saying that you need. https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-VSX-530-K-Receiver-Bluetooth-Technology/dp/B0141JVEHS/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1504205680&sr=1-4&keywords=receiver

I am new to this as well. I just bought this pioneer receiver. It is one of the recommended receivers in the buying guide on the sidebar. I received it yesterday, set it up and it seems great as a starter. My only real "complaint" is that i can only use banana connectors for the L/R speakers when connecting on the back of the receiver. The other speakers are done via those flip clips (idk the name for them).

But for $180, I think its a great starting point and allowed me to divert more of my budget to quality speakers.

You probably won't be able to do much for $250, unfortunately. If you want a 4k capable receiver that can support UHD Blu-rays in the future, you'll need one with HDCP 2.2 compliance, and this is the cheapest one I could find, and it's $250 by itself: Pioneer VSX-530-K As for speakers, most people would recommend spending at least $100 on your first pair of fronts. I personally was able to find an Energy RC-Micro 5.1 speaker set unused on eBay for $220, but that's not always possible. I'd say at least allow for spending $300-400 for a good stereo system before upgrading later.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0141JVEHS/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1494552006&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=home+theater+receiver&dpPl=1&dpID=415upHOJPNL&ref=plSrch

One optical, a couple of rca and a few hdmi with a headphone jack.

I think something with a separate receiver would work better. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0141JVEHS/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1481314170&sr=1-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=receiver+5.1+hdcp+2.2&dpPl=1&dpID=415upHOJPNL&ref=plSrch
And Fluance speakers will be much better as well B014JTYKA8/ref=pd_aw_sbs_23_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=AR1HPYKJGJ0NF31M19GB

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01CDF9S1G/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488216382&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=oled+4k

The TVs are pretty decently priced, were even cheaper on Amazon during the sales last year. I expect prices to fall even lower this holiday season.

4K 120hz. Yeah, not happening. There's this for a 60hz panel, but I'm seeing a lot of post processing that will add a lot of latency

https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN40KU6300-40-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01DUTL4OI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483648747&sr=8-1&keywords=40+inch+4k%27

Can anybody please do me a favor and tell me if this TV would be a good buy for me if I want to play 4k games on it?

here is the amazon link for the tv:

https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN40KU6300-40-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01DUTL4OI/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

here is the rting review:
http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/samsung/ku6300

I want to buy the 40 inch version, it supports HDR10, 4k and has an input lag of about 20msec (which is good for the price IMO, around $450)

Please let me know if you guys have any suggestions!

https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN40KU6300-40-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01DUTL4OI/ref=sr_1_1?s=tv&ie=UTF8&qid=1473277842&sr=1-1&keywords=4k+tv

Is this a good one?

Here ya go Samsung UN40KU6300 40-Inch 4K Ultra HD Smart LED TV (2016 Model) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DUTL4OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2RvLybFC8KQTR

A 34" ultra-wide monitor would be awesome for both gaming and productivity, but they run ~$1000-ish. With a wide monitor, you wouldn't have to worry about bezels getting in the way, and you can have 2-3 programs open at the same time, side by side, for productivity. You can even use a $600-ish 40" 4k TV, but you will be capped at 60 Hz refresh rate, unlike the ROG Swift and Acer Predator x34 at 100Hz.

• 13" 2015 Macbook Pro 128 GB/8 GB RAM/ i5
  
• Surface Pro 4 Core M3
  
• Logitech Solar Keyboard
  
• Logitech M705 Mouse
  
• Samsung UN40KU6300 4K TV
  
• AmazonBasics Laptop Stand
  
• 2016 1.0 Setup
  
• 2015 Setup

I have the 60" version of this TV and love it. One criticism is that if you are sitting to the side the color can appear washed out, but sitting straight in front of the TV it looks great.

I linked the 40" version if that's the size you're after. It also has HDR.

Samsung UN40KU6300 40-Inch 4K Ultra HD Smart LED TV (2016 Model) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DUTL4OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vtkhybXQ4PE1V

https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN40KU6300-40-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01DUTL4OI/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1478812433&sr=1-3&keywords=samsung%2BHDR&th=1

Will this one meet the requirements for the PS4 Pro HDR?

Yeaa should have specified for music use, not game storage. Thanks for the TV tip! I may go with campelm's idea to future proof myself with a 4k hdr.
Edit: found this one w/hrd for about $60 more than the one you suggested https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01DUTL4OI/ref=pd_aw_sbs_504_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Q3J476031X2GDCAJ93F5

Your receiver model might not be HT-s3200, check the front right corner or rear by power. s3500 is R391

I chose the same model Sony receiver and found a Samsung TV that was DLP like mine.

Make sure you have the latest ATI drivers and HDMI Audio is selected for install.

Is this worth buying? Is it similar to yours?

http://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-HT-S3500-5-1-Channel-Theater-Receiver/dp/B0077V88V8/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1411068131&sr=8-9&keywords=Onky

You would both benefit more from something like this I can almost guarantee. http://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-HT-S3500-5-1-Channel-Theater-Receiver/dp/B0077V88V8/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1416412558&sr=1-1&keywords=5.1+receiver+home+theater+and+speakers

Why not replace the soundbar with this and gain sound quality and simplify your input connections

I'm sorry and I know this is irrelevant, but I read powDered sub and lost it.

On a more serious note, a powered sub will need some sort of pre amp to send the signal. If you were really wanting a subwoofer to have all the connections of the rest of the sound system, I know bose (DONT DO IT) acoustimass modules have the outputs for speakers, though they aren't powered.

Since it is going to be PC driven, honestly You're best off making sure you have a 5.1 soundcard and then finding a 5.1 computer set up. I know Logitech makes a few.

I understand money is always a factor in creating your system, but do NOT sell yourself short and spend just under 200 when you could save up a bit more and get what you actually want.

A proper receiver with 5.1 output and a speaker setup will be something that you can keep and upgrade when the time comes.

If your PC has an optical out, you could do something like this

it's not a powered sub setup, but it's a start in the right direction.

You could rock this for a while, then upgrade to a receiver that has a sub pre out and pick up a powered sub with that and then use your existing speakers with your new set up.

Ultimately, my true opinion is: DON'T SETTLE.

You'll regret it.

So I've been thinking about my situation some more, and being cognizant of the fact that the sound quality will be inferior in a prepackaged system, I think getting one makes the most sense for me due to budgetary constraints and overall convenience. I like the idea of building a system over time, but I don't think I'll be able to commit resources to building it up like that. I probably won't ever get around to upgrading anything. Also, as a bit of perspective for me, I've been using a basic stereo system (5 CD changer kind of deal) for the last 13 or 14 years... so I think a prepackaged system would still present a pretty significant upgrade for me...

With all this in mind, and resigning myself to the disadvantages of a prepackaged system, which of these seems like the best option?

The aforementioned Sony system?

This Onkyo system?

Or this other Sony system?

Thanks so much for your help!

Awesome thanks for the list. So I assume your saying that Onkyo makes good receivers but their speakers are lacking, and so I should build my own slowly with the Miccas and the Dayton? Because I was considering this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0077V88V8/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=VHT3EQQ052JF&coliid=I3QJ9CXM0F45RQ

Most people will say you're better off with a real receiver. They're right. I've been through this scenario you are describing. The problem is that the bluray player is your "receiver". At the same time, it has no HDMI inputs. So all your components (Xbox, whatever else) have to plug into the TV, and then the sound is sent out to the bluray receiver through the optical.

Can it be done? Yes. But most TVs do not passthrough 5.1 via optical, which means your TV will likely spit the signal out as stereo. Your bluray will probably take a stereo signal and split it artificially into 5.1, but it's not the true surround you had coming out of the Xbox. The only time you will get true surround is when watching a bluray.

The other issue is the speakers. Most of these systems have a proprietary connector on the receiver that prevents you from easily connecting new speakers. That means when you outgrow the system or want to upgrade you have to completely replace the system. Mine was donated to a friend.


You're better off with a real receiver. Even this system would be better, since it has a real receiver and the speakers could be upgraded.

Onkyo HT-S3500 660 Watt 5.1-Channel Home Theater Speaker/Receiver Package https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0077V88V8/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_xnJ-ub0XM6VGY
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0077V88V8/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_xnJ-ub0XM6VGY

I got this like 3 years ago and love it

So this was my setup before the samsung bar

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0077V88V8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If i get that denon receiver, for the time being just to get me 5.1 up and running, could i essentially use these speakers with it? I know the sound quality probably sucks, but at least I could drop the samsung bar, and then use the new AVR with some speakers. Or is that a bad idea?

Do you have any speaker recommendations for 5.1 atm?

Oh...for gaming..I'll be connecting it to:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0077V88V8/

Onkyo HT-S3500 5.1-Channel Home Theater Speaker/Receiver Package

This is the HTIB I previously owned. So the speakers are from that.

But recently I think I've decided to up the budget a little bit. I think I'm going to go with the Denon x1300w off of A4L for $299, and then get a pair of Micca MB42X and the MB42X-C for now until I can upgrade my rear speakers and sub.

I was considering just settling for the Denon AVR-S530BT, but for $299 it's hard to pass up such a significant improvement as well as a leaving me a bit of room to gradually improve to a 7.1.2 set up for Atmos.

hi y'all.

I have a question: currently i'm using a speedlink gravity wave, i was looking at a new system and then i saw the proposed system: Micca MB42X, Muse M50 and was wondering is there a major gain from using this i'm currently using a asrock extreme6 motherboard with integrated sound, my budget is around the €150,- but i can to €200,-, any extra advice is appreciated

First off, I would suggest a different amp. Something of the same style, but not as cheap. Maybe something like this
.

If you want to keep the lepai, then you'll need a 12 volt 3 amp. AC power supply, something like this, that's just a quick google, I found mine pretty cheap on ebay.

You say you're not worried about the distortion, but with this amp and those speakers at high volumes your music will be distorted to the extent that you won't enjoy it, at least that was my experience.

Repost:

I'm looking to upgrade my current system. I have a Denon DP300F turntable. It has a built in phono stage (not sure how great it is). I am looking to buy KEF Q300 speakers. No sub for the time being. Looking for a receiver and maybe a pre-amp?

Looking at the Denon AVR-X1000 maybe the new model that comes out tomorrow? Maybe the Denon AVR-E200.

or...a phono preamp and this guy? http://www.amazon.com/Tripath-TPA3123-Stereo-Amplifier-Supply/dp/B008YBC172/

Anywho. Any advice would be great. I'm pretty lost. Would like to spend $250 or less on receiver if i can.

http://www.amazon.com/Tripath-TPA3123-Stereo-Amplifier-Supply/dp/B008YBC172/

http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-SP-BS22-LR-Designed-Bookshelf-Loudspeakers/dp/B008NCD2LG/ref=pd_rhf_dp_s_cp_?ie=UTF8&refRID=00ZEHJB28QVA5HH77V45

http://www.amazon.com/Rolls-MX28-Mini-Mix-VI/dp/B0002CZQJ6/ref=pd_cp_MI_3

http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CPR202-Dual-Inch/dp/B000068O17/ref=pd_bxgy_MI_text_z Times 3

http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B006LW0WDQ/ref=pd_sim_e_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1A2VT6HEN2RHR2SAHW4V

Let's see, that's $9.47, plus $24.18, plus $66.99, plus $73.45, plus $126.99 = $293.02 presuming you have your old PS3 cables.

Spend the extra $50.01 - you won't regret it. If you can't possibly do it, then substitute the Pioneers with Micca MB42X's at $79.95 dropping the total to $245.98

http://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42X-Bookshelf-Speakers-Tweeter/dp/B00E7H8GG2

That would leave you with $5 for beer.

EDIT: Sorry I have to take that beer away. I forgot you need to get your PS3 audio to the mixer. Add one more 1/4" to RCA cable for $8.06 more.

What would be a good pair of wall mountable speakers to pair up with a Muse M50 on a $100 budget?

I have a BIC America F-12 sub. I use it with these bookshelves and this amp. Total price for both is under $150.

The system took a little tweaking, but it sounds very nice for a budget system.

I was wrong on the speaker setup pricewise. It's about $150 which is quite a bit more than I mentioned. The setup would be MUSE M50 amp and Micca MB42XSpeakers. I love music and spent quite a bit more on my setup, but I feel most setups ignore peripherals so I made it a point to mention it :)

For keyboards, I like mechanicals. They tend to have a higher build quality and the clicky clack noise and feel they have is fantastic! I use the Corsair k95 as I play multiple MMO's as well as FPS, but would not reccomend at its current price ($130, I got mine for $90). The Razer keyboard I linked is one of the few products I like from them and would recommend. The Coolermaster Storm series are nice as well and anything Ducky or Das Keyboard are also good brands.

For a mouse, I actually don't mind the Razer Naga/Deathadder. They are pretty fairly priced and pretty durable. Their $100+ mice on the other hand, I don't like at all. Corsair, Coolermaster, Logitec, and Razer (within reason) are the brands I would suggest. I use a Corsair M95 mainly for the additional binds, and it's color matches my case.

I would budget, at the top end, $130 for a quality keyboard and $80 for a mouse.

Budget: $100ish

Looking for: Amp or receiver

Used for: Music (Electronic, reggae, acoustic, country, vocal, chill, rap, and many more) in a small apartment, and movies too.

Just picked up: 4 Pinnacle AC 650 speakers for $40.
http://www.pinnaclespeakers.com/ac650.html

Any experience with these? Are they entry level audiophile acceptable?

Thinking about picking up: Fully functional Pioneer SA-6700 Amp off Craig's list for $100.

I only plan to use two of the speakers, and just sell the other two. What do you all think?

Should I save money and just get a more powerful amp like the recommended Muse M50?
http://www.amazon.com/Tripath-TPA3123-Stereo-Amplifier-Supply/dp/B008YBC172/

Or maybe this "MicroFidelity Mini Amp 200"?
http://www.amazon.com/microFidelity-Mini-Amplifier-Model-Silver/dp/B003PXSXEE/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

Thanks in advance for any help.

most modern day receivers do NOT have the phono pre-amp stage, so the pre-amp will still be required.

we regularly through this around in other audio subreddits as being a very solid starter set up.

http://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42X-Bookshelf-Speakers-Tweeter/dp/B00E7H8GG2

http://www.amazon.com/Tripath-TPA3123-Stereo-Amplifier-Supply/dp/B008YBC172/

>convenience of the Bluetooth

All you need to do is plug a cable in. >_>

In the thread header you can see "the absolutely cheapest system we are willing to recommend":

http://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42X-Bookshelf-Speakers-Tweeter/dp/B00E7H8GG2

http://www.amazon.com/Tripath-TPA3123-Stereo-Amplifier-Supply/dp/B008YBC172/

Looks like the Amazon store is out of stock of the MB42X speakers at the moment but you might be able to get them someplace else, I'm not sure. You will need the amp to accompany them (no amp = no power = no party). The speakers cost about $80, amp is $66.

Here's a review of the MB42X: http://www.noaudiophile.com/Micca_MB42x_Bookshelf_Speakers/ TL;DR they will absolutely destroy any sort of Bluetooth portable speaker.

Please note there is a huge difference between these and the "MB42" model (without the X). If you're interested in buying, make sure you buy "MB42X" exactly. If you can't find the MB42X for sale anywhere, I'm not sure, sorry. You might have to ask for alternatives.

The need for an amp depends on the speakers. If you got powered(active) speakers then you do not need an amp. This is a very cheap amp to get you started if you have passive speakers. If you want to listen to the radio/switch between sources then a receiver(has radio tuner) like the Onkyo 8020 or any integrated amplifier(no radio tuner) like the yamaha A-S300 will do nicely.

Just wondering if anyone can approve(or improve) the following list for my PC set up before i place the order. My budget is $200 for a 2.0 system. I will be purchasing a sub in the future to upgrade to 2.1.

Behringer UCA202 Audio Interface, $29

Speakers: Micca MB42X, $80

Amp: MUSE M50 EX, $68

Wiring: AmazonBasics 16-gauge Speaker Wire, $7

Total: $184.00 USD

Got some RCA wires that I will be using.

Please let me know your feedback or if there are cheaper options I can go with.

Thank you in advance

I use this for gaming Nyko Playpad Pro for Android/Bluetooth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0092ZEINO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9i2xDbEKZ88JM

I've been using this bluetooth controller for a while now to play emulated games on my phone. It's awesome!

Me and my friend we play street fighter alpha 3,Tekken 3, Darkstalkers 3 and Marvel vs Capcom on the Ps1 emulator.

My friend uses this: http://www.amazon.com/Playpad-Android-Bluetooth-PC-Mac-Linux/dp/B0092ZEINO
And I use this: http://www.amazon.com/GameSir-Bluetooth-Wireless-Joystick-Controller-Windows/dp/B013QFQR9S
This is done on my Galaxy tab 4

You have to use Bluetooth with the stick. Every input device I have tried has worked after installing the settings.apk

For a mini keyboard and mouse: the QQ-tech mini Bluetooth keyboard/touchpad works pretty well. Amazon.com

http://www.amazon.com/QQ-Tech®-Wireless-Bluetooth-Keyboard-Handheld/dp/B00BALK9CM/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1417633347&sr=1-1&keywords=qq-tech+mini+wireless+bluetooth+keyboard+handheld+with+touchpad

The Nyko Play pads for tablets (not FireTV version) have a mouse mode you can just use the on screen keyboard. Pro version and little nvida shield one work

http://www.amazon.com/Playpad-Android-Bluetooth-PC-Mac-Linux/dp/B0092ZEINO

http://www.amazon.com/Playpad-Android-Bluetooth-PC-Mac-Linux/dp/B0092ZEIN4/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1417633434&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=nyko+playpad

I also had success with an HP Bluetooth keyboard. Audio devices will pair but don't output sound.
If settings crashes reboot.

Edit added product links

http://www.amazon.com/Playpad-Android-Bluetooth-PC-Mac-Linux/dp/B0092ZEINO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418419663&sr=8-1&keywords=nyko+playpad+pro

http://www.amazon.com/Playpad-Android-Bluetooth-PC-Mac-Linux/dp/B0092ZEINO/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1418041252&sr=8-9&keywords=fire+tv+controller

Got mine for $13. Works just fine on the stick.

Nyko Playpad (https://www.amazon.com/Nyko-Playpad-Pro-Android-Bluetooth/dp/B0092ZEINO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1481678353&sr=8-2)

8bitdo Zero (https://www.amazon.com/8BITDO-Wireless-Controller-Android-Windows/dp/B0156IC8M8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1481678429&sr=8-2)

Any idea why the D pad wouldn't work in Knights of the Old Republic(Android) with a DualShock 3?

Thank you!

This one works for me on everything so far except for VR Karts for some reason

http://www.amazon.ca/Nyko-Android-Bluetooth-Universal-Controller/dp/B0092ZEINO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449028798&sr=8-1&keywords=nyko+playpad+pro

I haven't tested Tinycore or 8bitdo's apps, so I can't comment there. All I can say is that Nvidia's default gamepad mapper hasn't made me want to go looking for some other solution, so I guess that's a good a testimonial for it as any.

I also wouldn't say it works with any controller. I've only tested this Nyko controller: https://www.amazon.com/Nyko-Playpad-Pro-Android-Bluetooth/dp/B0092ZEINO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1502630121&sr=8-2&keywords=Nyko+controller+Android It works just fine with Nvidia's controller mapper. So I suppose any controller with similar specs and functionality would also work.

After a quick Google I found this review:

http://www.amazon.com/Playpad-Android-Bluetooth-PC-Mac-Linux/product-reviews/B0092ZEINO

A guy says he paired it with his Windows 8.1 tablet and it worked in mouse mode and in MAME it works in play pad mode. I will investigate further when I get back home in a few days but I would bet it would work. It may just take a bit of tweaking with some things.

But works fine with this Nyko controller: http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0092ZEINO/ref=nosim/appleink/

we got a few of these when they were $19.99 : http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0092ZEINO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Okay the price isn't bad, but there's no reviews on that specific model i noticed. Have you personally tried or heard if its reliable with a PS4/Z506 setup?

Because ones like these below got tons of mixed reviews about delayed audio, static, etc.

https://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Audio-Digital-Decoder-Converter/dp/B00AMC2J1Y/ref=pd_sbs_23_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00AMC2J1Y&pd_rd_r=XSW11N6QWP9QMWTF73HC&pd_rd_w=10swf&pd_rd_wg=yNTJZ&psc=1&refRID=XSW11N6QWP9QMWTF73HC

what model computer do you have?

some of the older macbooks had a combo 1/8"/mini-optical port. you could go from that to some sort of box (something similar to this) that converts an optical signal to discrete 5.1. and to be honest, with headphones you're not going to notice the difference between 5.1 and 7.1.

i don't know that the newer macbooks (specifically the air that i have) support the optical connection through the headphone jack.

another option might be to find an external USB audio device but without doing a lot of research, i don't know if there's one that's specifically mac compatible.

Ok, thanks...found one I think. The versions I had seen looked to have issues around 5.1, this looks like its worth a try. https://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Audio-Digital-Decoder-Converter/dp/B00AMC2J1Y

Yeah there are devices out there that claim to convert digital to the 3.5mm needed for those type of speaker systems... How well they work, i couldn't tell you. These devices fall into the "jerry-rigged systems" category which has a very high chance of not working so just be aware of that before going too far down the rabbit hole.

You'd be looking for something like this I just googled "optical to 3.5mm 5.1" and this is what came up.

You would need a receiver with preamp outputs. What sort of receiver are you considering? Preamp outputs are not usually found in cheap receivers. You have to get into multi-hundred dollar receivers, the assumption being that you find the built-in amplifiers too poor.

You'd be further ahead getting a Digital Audio Decoder. Not too expensive.

You posted a link to EU. What country are you located in?

Short of getting a full A/V receiver, you can use an digital to analog surround sound converters like this or this for that. I've never used either of those products and just linked them as examples, a little research might turn up better options, and note that optical is limited to lossy compression for surround sound while HDMI supports full quality,

If you are truly insistent on using these speakers, you could purchase this optical to coax/3.5mm converter for like $35. 1st disclaimer is I have never used one of these and have no idea what the results/quality will be so you're on your own for that one!
https://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Audio-Digital-Decoder-Converter/dp/B00AMC2J1Y
[Ok, here is my 2nd disclaimer: Personally I think this is a silly idea. I do not think this is the route you want to go if you really want a surround sound setup. And spending this much on an adapter to use speakers that are maybe $60 (that's what...$10 each??) is kind of silly in my mind.
I don't think you will be happy with the results.
If you want surround sound, I think the entry level point would be to look for a used 5.1 receiver on craigslist that accepts optical audio.
If that's not doable, I think working towards a nice 2 channel setup is way more rewarding than a super-super-budget, pseudo-5.1 setup.]
Ok, sure, to each their own though. Really.

Hi all, thanks a lot for the replies.
The subwoofer has 5 color coded RCA outputs for the 5 speakers, then 3 color coded 3.5mm jacks for connecting the front, rear and center channels to the PC. I tried to get this audio converter: https://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Audio-Digital-Decoder-Converter/dp/B00AMC2J1Y/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1498591321&sr=1-1&keywords=panlong+5.1+audio+decoder
This converter has an optical output which I connected to my TV from one side then from the other side it has the 3 color coded 3.5 mm plugs, so I was able to connect the subwoofer to and it worked fine and the speaker sounded great but it's on the cheap end and it keeps breaking, and the channels were not distributed very well.
so I want to get a nicer one and mainly connected the speaker directly to the new reciever and then connect the subwoofer to the reciever as well, so my main question is how to connect the the subwoofer to the receiver, I couldn't find a cable that has tripple 3.5mm on one end and and RCA on the other end (assuming this is how a regualr subwoofer connects to a receiver).
Thanks

I think it is 3.5mm because it's 1 wire for both L & R channels and RCA is 1 wire per channel. This looks like it's the same thing and one of the reviewers mentions using them with a 3.5mm connection for PC speakers:

https://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Audio-Digital-Decoder-Converter/dp/B00AMC2J1Y/

Worst case you could also get RCA to 3.5mm adapters if you had to.

Why not use the optical out on the xbox one to a converter to convert to multiple 3.5mm jacks like this https://www.amazon.ca/Panlong-Audio-Digital-Decoder-Converter/dp/B00AMC2J1Y

​

Hdmi is video/audio, where as usb is for connecting devices. You can hope that xbox x will support the Ryg via USB connectivity later. But i'm pretty sure HDMI to USB is not a thing for decoding as plugging in the RYG to the converter would require that there were drivers on the converter to interface with.

​

​

Black = Rear left and right.
Green = Front left and right.
Orange = Center and Subwoofer.

You need a cable like this

Connect to the green cable.

If you can return/exchange your audio converter, you might get something like this instead so that you can take advantage of your subwoofer and surround capabilities -- I don't know (nor have I used) the particular one in the link, it is just here as an example of the type.

Do you have any other connections on the TV? If not, you'd need something like this (you may be able to find something cheaper, but this is what I found after a quick search).

https://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Audio-Digital-Decoder-Converter/dp/B00AMC2J1Y

You'll connect this to the optical out (the squarish connection at the top) with a TOSLINK cable, then the 3.5mm jacks on your creative speakers.

> So I need to find a way to turn the Monitor into a recording device, not a playback device. Is there any way to do this?

Not too sure on that exactly, but I have an alternative for you that may be easier, which is basically how to get the same thing you had with your 360.

The XBox One can output audio over optical, so you simply have to convert that to 3.5mm, and the route to that is a DAC:

What I did when I first got my XBox1 and had a monitor without speakers was I used an optical -> 3.5mm active converter then put it into the line-in/mic port on my motherboard and set the listen option like you did with your 360. (On the XB1 in audio settings you can set it to output audio on the optical.)

This is what I used: https://www.amazon.com/Orei-DA21-Optical-Converter-Headphone/dp/B008EPW7TA It comes with an optical cable, so all you should need is a male-male 3.5mm stereo cable to run between it and the line-in on your computer or speakers. (and a free power outlet)

 

 

(The following is extra information in case you want to output now or in the future to a 5.1 surround sound setup but don't have a receiver that can take XB1 input already)

 

 

I've upgraded since so that the XB1 can output to my surround speakers. I have speakers that have two inputs on them in front/rear/and center. I use Altec Lansing ACS41 for rear and center and Bose Companion 2 for the fronts. Then I have the optical from the XB1 going into one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Audio-Digital-Decoder-Converter/dp/B00AMC2J1Y . (Then this one is personal to my system to allow me to easily control volume balance without having to run around to each speaker and disrupting the PC's balance which also go into those speakers.) I have three of these: http://www.sescom.com/product.asp?item=SES-MKP-27 One for Front, Center, and Rear, next to each other on my desk, and then from there they go to the speakers.

You could probably pick up a used receiver for around $100. For a new receiver, I'd recommend the Yamaha RX-V375. I just picked one up for under $200, and it looks like you can get them refurb'd from Amazon for even less - basically everything you need without all the bells and whistles (Airplay, etc).

Possibly stupid question: can I use an AV receiver as an amp for my stereo, without having it hooked up to a TV?

I'm looking to buy a Yamaha receiver for use as a relatively affordable amplifier for a 2.0 speaker system. I don't plan to hook it up to a TV (will take output from a DAC from my computer), but I wasn't sure whether I would need the receiver hooked up to a TV in order to configure options and so forth.

If it helps, the receiver I'm looking at is the Yamaha RX-V375.

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/klipsch-promedia-2-1-speaker-system-3-piece-black/9382232.p?id=1218095770265

unformatted link above...it works fine for me. However, i'm thinking you're going to want want something bigger and badder than that.

• Receiver refurb Yamaha AVR $170
  
  
• Sub BIC F12 $185
  
  
• Speakers BIC DV62 $115

??? I use this receiver and these speakers, what would you suggest that I upgrade to?

So I am looking at some gear here and am having a lot trouble deciding where to on putting it all together.

So here's the stuff amps first:

SMSL amp

Denon receiver

yamaha receiver

now the speakers:

JBL

Klipsch

Polk sub

I play a large variety of music from jazz to EDM. I throw house parties as well where, at there largest, I need a set up that can fill up a house and drown out ~100 people.

I guess I'm really curious as to what all of your opinions are on this equipment and what I need it for.

You can currently get this on Amazon for $180: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B981F38/ref=gb1h_tit_c-2_1482_b3de09be

It's overkill, but gives you plenty of options for not too much more money than a converter box.

If that is not in your price range, I would check on craigslist to pick up a decent brand receiver for $50-75.

is this model better than the yamaha set that i was about to buy? if so i could buy the speakers and sub set separately since they seem to be about the same price everywhere.

http://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-RX-V375-Channel-Theater-Receiver/dp/B00B981F38/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1418851817&sr=1-2-fkmr0&keywords=Yamaha+YHT399UBL

I'm a little confused if you're saying $500 for speakers alone, or the set up. Heres a list I put together for a friend who had the same budget. Hope this helps.

($200) http://amzn.com/B00B981F38
($10) http://amzn.com/B006LW0W5Y
($12) http://amzn.com/B005EZTUMU
($130) http://amzn.com/B00067OS0A
($130) http://amzn.com/B004LRPXAU

Edit: If you go this route, don't forget these.

http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-Series-Subwoofer-Cable/dp/B003FVYXY0/ref=pd_bxgy_e_text_y

http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-Series-Y-Adapter-Inches/dp/B004EBX5GW/ref=pd_sim_e_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=0HP63MCWR61GRJ58Y5BY

Regular speaker wire.

This is my receiver:

https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-RX-V375-Channel-Theater-Receiver/dp/B00B981F38

Thanks for the info!

Actually, for a receiver I'll be purchasing a Yamaha RX-V375BL. My recent edit above includes it in the diagram, in case you didn't catch that.

Since I'm still learning a lot about audio and video equipment/tech, I didn't know that a single HDMI cord between the receiver and TV will take care of it (since the receiver does have HDMI ports), so I suppose the optical connection is unnecessary (right?).

One more thing here... I was looking at the receiver you linked. It seems nice, but I was curious and looked at a more "modern" option. I really want HDMI ports and 4K capability, and this one jumped out at me. It seems to have everything I'm looking for and the price isn't outrageous. I'd either have to drop my sub down a bracket to stay within $500 or maybe just blow my budget by a bit. Am I being an idiot if I do this?

EDIT: I WAS being an idiot. The receiver you linked does in fact have HDMI ports. I was getting it mixed up with another receiver someone had linked.

Sub $300 dollar range would be great. My current room is small, maybe 15-20 square feet, but I'm planning to move into an apartment soon, and I will have this set up in a (hopefully) larger living room. I'm generally sitting 12 feet back. Right now I'm looking at this receiver, but I can't seem to find if it supports LPCM 5.1 anywhere. Thanks for your help!

Buy This

Hey weem, I'm about to get in the same boat as you, but since these posts are a few months old, I wanted to get some feedback.

1. What did you decide to go with and how is it working (regarding HD channels)?
   
2. Here's a scenario that I want to ask you, and everyone else who's replied to your post:
   Taking the X1 out of the equation; I have a coax from wall to my HDTV. Coax can carry all digital signals (video & audio), but supposedly you need a box/tuner/converter to descramble and then reassemble into HD (hence the need for cable boxes and thereof).
   There has to be "Some Thing" that you can input the coax
   (from the wall) into; and then that "Thing" has an output (either HDMI or Component) that will plug into the HDTV, resulting in being able to view HD channels in HD.
   Does anyone know what that "Thing" could be? Does it exist? Do the following actually do what I'm trying to explain?...
   http://www.amazon.com/iView-3500STB-DTV-Converter-Box/dp/B00BFIJQ10/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1384142475&sr=1-1&keywords=digital+cable+converter+box
   http://www.amazon.com/HomeWorx-HW-150PVR-Converter-Recording-Function/dp/B00CXAE92K/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1384184908&sr=1-2&keywords=digital+to+analog+tv+converter+hdmi
   
   

No, the coax cable has many channels on it while HDMI is only one. You need a tuner that has an HDMI output. Something along the lines of this: http://www.amazon.com/Multi-function-Digital-Converter-Box-Recording/dp/B00BFIJQ10/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1411256817&sr=8-2&keywords=coax+tuner+hdmi+out

I think I'm going to go with this one:

http://www.amazon.com/Multi-function-Digital-Converter-Box-Recording/dp/B00BFIJQ10

Looks identical to the first one I linked, but is cheaper and Amazon Prime.

Thanks a ton for your help!

Plug antenna connection into something like this.

www.amazon.com/iView-3500STB-DTV-Converter-Box/dp/B00BFIJQ10/ref=pd_rhf_gw_p_t_2_0KJW

Then run HDMI from the converter box to your TV. You will use the converter box to change channels.

I'm in the same boat. Here are the two that I'm trying to decide over.


iView 3500STB

HomeWorx HW-150PVR


Both significantly cheaper than the ones provided by /u/Boba_Fresh

Is it old style analog cable or digital cable? For digital they should be providing you with a set top box which would have HDMI. If you convert it to DVI with a $4 adapter you may have HDCP problems.

If it's analog cable then this $40 box seems fine.

http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Picture-Monitor-Projectors-TV-LCDHR/dp/B0011NM17K

or this:

http://www.amazon.com/iView-3500STB-DTV-Converter-Box/dp/B00BFIJQ10

It's this one, you'll also need an antenna, I got this one. Works great, and we also get quirky local channels we didn't before.

How about one of these?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BFIJQ10/

The one you have does ATSC, which I s over-the-air (OTA) which just means the stuff that you need an antenna for. That's usually only a few channels, as you have found.


You need something that does QAM, which is the digital method. This one looks like it will: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BFIJQ10/ref=pd_aw_sbs_1?pi=SS115&simLd=1

Edit: I just double checked and the website for Mediasonic specifically states non of their boxes do QAM. Definitely your problem. Looks like there are a lot available that do... so you should be all set. Maybe check the XB1 setup before you order to see if it supports whatever tuner you order.

The other option being order it from Amazon here:

http://www.amazon.com/Roku-3-Streaming-Media-Player/dp/B00BGGDVOO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1391421579&sr=8-2&keywords=roku+3&tag=donations09-20

Then head down to tricky dicks for a 240VAC-12VDC generic adaptor.

Ours arrived in about a week.

Batman Suit

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BGGDVOO/ref=wl_it_dp_v_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=HXTS6E4DV1VF&coliid=IWJ1PIPJSPET5

you need to buy this because I had a roku 1 for a long time and I loved it, and the 3 is much much better!


http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DR7NMXA/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2KB6ZYT0WQ3W3&coliid=I20UNXXX7RUBX4

I NEEEEEED this so I can kill zombies on my phone! PREASE?!?!

To echo others in the thread, most tablets and laptops will be more expensive than some of the small set-top boxes for digital media, like the Roku 2 XS, Roku 3, Amazon Fire TV, or WDTV. All have their trade-offs, but I know the first 3 at least can connect to a few varieties of media server on a separate computer, such as the very popular Plex, or play local media from an attached USB device. They all sell at $100 USD or less right now.

I have used both the USB and Plex options personally on Roku 2 XS and Amazon FireTV and really enjoyed the experience, though my preference of the two is Plex for a home setup, while USB is fairly convenient if you want to go binge a show at a friend's house.

The Plex client for the device should support more than one server machine, so if you have other members of the household with their own media, they can fire up a Plex server of their own when they want to watch on the set-top box.

I cannot say anything about the WD TV from first hand knowledge, only the Roku series and Amazon Fire TV.

You need this RIGHT NOW. Because, who the eff doesn't like to watch everything on their TV without having to run a cord to their laptop??

And I need this RIGHT NOW because I have an unhealthy obsession with owls and cookie jars and this one is wearing a freakin' scarf!

Batman Suit

thanks for the contest :)

First, you can get him something called a powerbank. Powerbanks are small, portable, things used to charge your phone, tablet, mp3, etc on the go when there is no plugs around.

Here's one I found on Amazon

The Roku 3 is an awesome gift.

Roku 3 is $75 shipped.. http://www.amazon.com/Roku-3-Streaming-Media-Player/dp/B00BGGDVOO/ref=sr_1_1?s=tv&ie=UTF8&qid=1426282861&sr=1-1&keywords=roku+3

I have had several Roku devices over the years. I frequently sell older units as new models come available. I can state the older units (Roku 2s and older) need more frequent reboots (about twice or more a week). However, the top of the line Roku 3 ( http://amzn.com/B00BGGDVOO ) is much more stable and rarely needs a reboot. I also rarely get those freeze-ups on Netflix you describe (but yes, I do get them on older units).

Also, I think the newest model (the slims) PlayStation 3 and Xbox 360 make great streaming devices. But I still prefer the Roku 3 for the remote.

Update on my Build

I've purchased

• Projector - Epson 2045 - $650 (after $200 visa gift card rebate)
  
  
• Screen - Silver ticker 120" - $219
  
  
• Receiver - Yamaha RX A750 -$388
  
  
• Fronts Speakers - Philharmoic audio affordables $195
  
  
• Center Speaker - Philharmoic audio affordables $135
  
  
• Surround/side speaker - SVS prime $229 outlet pricing
  
  
  
  
  Will purchase when funds are available
  
  
  
• Rear Speakers - To be determined
  
  
• Woofers - Plan to purchase Hsu STF-2 ($365 shipped)
  
  
• Media Player - Nvidia Sheild with 500gb HD $299
  

Absolutely possible to get started within that budget. Setting up a projector based home theater is a journey, it’s not a buy one time and be done.

This is what I did also, since I wasn’t sure if I’d enjoy the projector experience. Since you are new to projectors, I would recommend getting an entry level projector ($500 to $700) brand new or you can try the classifieds in avsforum (or craigslist). The cheap projector may not be 4K, may not have the placement flexibility etc - but before you plunk serious dollars into all that, this is a great way to get your feet wet. For a projector screen, used is a great option (as there are no electronics to go bad). Or, you can spring for a new Silverticket screen for around $250 or so.

If you have the AV equipment already hook it up and check to see if you like it. The. You can spend more money/time on room treatment, better projector etc. Over time. If you don’t like the experience, sell these for not much of a loss.

Here are the links:

Projector: https://www.benqdirect.com/ht2050a-refurb.html

Screen: https://www.amazon.com/STR-169120-Silver-Ticket-120-Diagonal/dp/B00CYLOTPK

I have been hearing that a lot and have been looking into both.

For the Silver Ticket, is the white material the preferred style to get the most gain? The descriptions say 1.1 gain. Would this be the best setup for someone with white walls as well?

Do you have any other screen recommendations that are less then $1k for 120 in? The dealer mention he had Stewart Cima Neve, but it doesn't seem reasonable to buy for my situation.

I bought this and was impressed with the build quality and it looks great on the wall. Screen lays perfectly flat.

For projector, I would go with an Optoma HD28 in eco-mode - $800, and pair that with something like a Silver Ticket 120" screen at $250 and call that a day.

You will want eco-mode, as it has better color output, but that particular projector will do well in a dimly-lit basement, it won't need absolute darkness to be watchable. That's $1050 of your budget, which would leave $1450 for audio equipment.

I doubt you'll have to spend that much for a decent screen. My go-to's are from Silver Ticket. They're good quality, super easy to set up, and easy on the wallet.

• STR-169110
  
• STR-169110-G
  
• STR-169120
  
• STR-169120-G
  
  If your room is completely light controlled and dark, I recommend going with a white screen. If not, a grey screen may help with your contrast and color performance.

Here's a comment I made not too long ago - -



I don't know if this is what you are looking for but...


I have been using this projector since Winter 2018:
Optoma GT1080Darbee 1080p 3000 Lumens 3D DLP Short Throw Gaming Projector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XHG92Y5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_wjigLjdsijbj2


With the following screen:
STR-169120 Silver Ticket 120" Diagonal 16:9 4K Ultra HD Ready HDTV (6 Piece Fixed Frame) Projector Screen White Material https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CYLOTPK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_IDOEqvhvuHT7d


The only gripe that I have with the screen is, if the image is sharp in the center, the corners tend to be just slightly blurry. If text is clear in the center, then it is blurry in the corners. It's tolerable.

And vice-versa: if text is sharp in the corners, then it is slightly blurry in the center.

For my uses, this isn't a problem. I use the projector for gaming and watching videos/TV. PC Gaming and Console Gaming, I haven't noticed any latency issues between controller input and the display.

It's only when I am typing into the URL in the Web Browser at the top of the screen do I notice these blurry issues.

$1k-$1,500. What other pictures would you like? I was thinking of this screen. http://www.amazon.com/Silver-Ticket-HDTV-16-Projector/dp/B00CYLOTPK/ref=sr_1_2?s=tv&ie=UTF8&qid=1420319949&sr=1-2&keywords=projector+screen

And this projector:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MK39P92/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1420320858&sr=8-1&dpPl=1&dpID=41pU-DOAShL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SX200_QL40

I've looked around before.. these seem reviewed well.
Any opinion on it?

Ok that means you need the BenQ DLP HD 1080p Projector (HT2050) would be great for you with the STR-169120 Silver Ticket 120inch Diagonal 16:9 4K Ultra HD Ready HDTV screen

I see your problem. Your TV only seems to have TOSlink audio output - the model I googled had a headphone jack but that doesn't seem to be the case with yours. Do you happen to have an old receiver with TOSlink inputs? That would be a clunky solution, but it would work.

Otherwise a device like this will work:

https://www.amazon.ca/Fosmon%C2%AE-Digital-Coaxial-Optical-Converter/dp/B00KCRYIWM

https://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-Digital-Analog-Converter-Adapter/dp/B00KCRYIWM/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1473623544&sr=8-9&keywords=optical+to+rca+converter

I have my headphones plugged into my TV. The PS4 has an optical cable jack, you can use this to connect your 3.5mm directly to the console.

This is definitely possible, but you may run into some problems with digital signals vs. analog ones. Mixers, at least economical ones, are generally analog. Whereas TVs are mostly digital these days.

Where are the Youtube videos coming from? If you're using a Youtube app on a smart TV, you'll need to make sure that the TV has an analog output, so that you can route the Youtube audio from the TV, to the mixer, then to the soundbar via its analog input. If the TV doesn't have an analog output but does have a Toslink output (either optical or coax electrical), you can get a device like this D-to-A converter to fix that.

Of course, if the videos are coming from your laptop or something, you can just run audio from your laptop to the mixer and then to the soundbar.

This might be an option. I am not sure they make an actual cable or inline adapter for what you are trying to do.

I'm guessing the TV is the source of the audio, and you're not running from a Cable box/ media box.

You could get something like this

You may end up with a touch of delay (Especially noticeable if you use the TV speakers at the same time) with this setup, and i'm not sure how much of an improvement over straight 3.5 to RCA splitter from the tv would be.

so you can use your own speakers
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BSQUI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
DAC for AppleTV
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KCRYIWM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
speakers
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MCGF1O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
amp
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0071HZ5EQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Rocksmith isn't very stressful as far as PC specs, and you can turn down the graphics levels. That said, the PS4 version at half off is as cheap as a cable, so there's no reason not to get that one.

The Steam sale has started, with Rocksmith Remastered for $16. So for $46, you could have both including the cable.

You may also need something like this for the PS4 if your sound system doesn't take optical in. You can get a lot of lag if you just use HDMI to your TV for sound. I bought the one linked, but I've seen others closer to $10. I've heard that the new PS4s don't have optical audio out anymore. In that case, you may need to use HDMI, I don't know what other options there are.

What about something like this.

Convert your Optical to RCA or 3.5mm. RCA to speakers if you have any around that support it, or you could use the Headphone jack with an auxiliary cable as well.

This is what I got...but a Vilros package:
http://www.amazon.com/Vilros-Raspberry-Aviation-Set-Micro-Pre-loaded/dp/B01BX1QSFK?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

With:

http://www.amazon.com/NooElec-NESDR-Mini-RTL2832-Antenna/dp/B00P2UOU72?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01

That is the only thing i have plug in. Power sources i used, what came with the package and a 5v wall plug

hope this helps and thanks for your time, much appreciated

yes. Range is listed as starting at 24 MHz.

http://www.rtl-sdr.com/buy-rtl-sdr-dvb-t-dongles/

https://smile.amazon.com/NooElec-NESDR-Mini-RTL2832-Antenna/dp/B00P2UOU72/

I'm in the UK. Is this an acceptable substitute?

"NooElec NESDR Mini 2 USB RTL-SDR & ADS-B Receiver Set, RTL2832U & R820T2 Tuner, MCX Input. Low-Cost Software Defined Radio Compatible with Many SDR Software Packages. R820T2 Tuner & ESD-Safe Antenna Input, Guaranteed"

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00P2UOU72/

you need to get a USB tuner like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P2UOU72?psc=1

than you can listen in to these acurite temp/humidity sensors https://www.amazon.com/AcuRite-06002M-Wireless-Temperature-Humidity/dp/B00T0K8NXC/ref=sr_1_1?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1497352868&sr=1-1&keywords=acurite+592tx


using rtl_433 on the same RPi running HA. the program will spit out mqtt which you can template to get the temp and humidity values. I've been running this setup for the last six months and it's solid.

these are the blog SDRs
http://www.amazon.com/NooElec-NESDR-Mini-RTL2832-Antenna/dp/B00P2UOU72/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450573736&sr=8-1&keywords=nooelec

and this is the new one..

http://www.amazon.com/NooElec-NESDR-Mini-Compatible-Guaranteed/dp/B00VZ1AWQA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1450573736&sr=8-2&keywords=nooelec

which one are you ACTUALLY using..

NooElec NESDR Mini 2 SDR & DVB-T USB Stick (RTL2832 + R820T2) with Antenna and Remote Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P2UOU72/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_sM-MwbB15DFP5

Communications enthusiast here, browsing the sub. I know of people who have picked up almost every "world leader"'s aircraft, Air Force One and various other "big shots" included. If you're radiating ADS-B, anybody with a $20 "software defined radio" stick from Amazon and a free piece of software can locate you.

http://sdr.osmocom.org/trac/wiki/rtl-sdr

Get one with Elonics E4000 chipset & another with Rafael Micro R820T or R828D chipset.

The reasons for this choice are that the E4000 covers a higher range 52 - 2200 MHz BUT with a gap from 1100 to 1250 MHz

While the other has no gap but it is limited to 1766 MHz.

In other words one gives you a higher reception range but with a 150MHz gap and the other covers this gap, used separately of course.

Never get a dongle with an RF Antenna connector (old TV antenna connector that looks like this https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TV_aerial_plug) because I heard it degrades signal reception.

If you are just starting, do not worry too much just get this one:
https://www.amazon.com/NooElec-NESDR-Mini-RTL2832-Antenna/dp/B00P2UOU72/

Remember once you are done to edit your post at the end indicating that. :)

How would I know which version of the radios I have? edit:
I have these

NooElec NESDR Mini 2 SDR & DVB-T USB Stick (RTL2832 + R820T2) with Antenna and Remote Control

Ninja edit: they're not specific to airband, but coupled with the RTL-SDR software I linked to in another reply and an adequately-tuned rooftop antenna (I use the Telewave ANT125F2, but you can get good results for much cheaper or even DYI) you'll be monitoring the airband in no time. You can also improve the signal-to-noise ratio with a filter such as this one. You'll also need to install Icecast 2 to stream from the RTL-SDR software.

Yes, I am using this: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P2UOU72

Let's say I stretch my budget. What would you suggest as a substantial AV stereo. Would something like this work? It was what I originally intended on buying.

Well I was planing on using Digital optical cable to hook up the tv. Is it possible to use and the ARC HDMI instead? that will pass the audio to my receiver even though I'm using different inputs?

This is pretty much what I had in mind of how it would be set up.

Also what would be the difference between the Yamaha receiver in your post and this Pioneer other than some missing features like the extra bass stuff?

Thanks for the recommendations, sorry for the late response, work has been keeping me busy.

Sorry, I had a few things to do...

This is 400 watts and $200 new at Amazon: Pioneer VSX-530-K

Ok, but I wouldnt say not worth getting, because i absolutely need to get something for the speakers to even work. Ill probably end up going with the yamahas.

What are your thoughts on this one:

http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-VSX-530-K-Receiver-Bluetooth-Technology/dp/B0141JVEHS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1459374533&sr=8-3&keywords=YAMAHA+RX-V379

Sorry, I'm trying to keep up.

I just decided on a slightly better receiver. I don't know if it'll make much of a difference


Anyways, I don't like the idea of going cheaper on the selector, because I want to keep the impedance protection. It sounds like that's important to make sure everything runs correctly and doesn't hurt the equipment?

I don't know if it matters that I'll lose power each time I turn on a new speaker, because I only plan to run 1 room at a time. I was planning to only use this from 1 source, like bluetooth over my smartphone, but now I'm thinking it'll be nice to hook this up to my TV via the HDMI port. Will that be possible with the actual speaker ports are connected to the house sound?

Thanks for the help. I know me reply is hard to grasp.

Hi I'm looking to start getting into some newer speakers, moving on from my old logitech computer speakers.

Was thinking of getting these klipsch speakers for a basic book shelf start.

I was suggested to get this amp

As a side note I've got these head phones, sennheiser HD 558 so I'm trying to use an amp that I can use well with those too.

Ok so after doing some more research, I think having the possibility of upgrading to a 5.1 setup might be worth investing into.

Is the Pioneer VSX-530-K 5.1 a decent receiver?

I just ordered these items to build a surround sound system for my living room.

Klipsch - Quintet V 5.0 - On Sale at Newegg for 249.99, Regularly 599.99

Polk 10" Powered Subwoofer On sale at Amazon for $77, regularly $239

Pioneer VSX-530-K 5.1 Receiver On sale at Amazon for 189.99 regularly 279.99.

100 ft 16 gauge speaker wire $10.99 at Amazon

All in all, I bought $1130 worth of audio equipment for $527 dollars.

By receiver, I was referring to something such as this 5.1 receiver. (Note: I am not specifically advocating for this receiver; it was just one of the cheaper options.) The advantage to this device is that it will give you more options in the future to add devices, and you'll be able to pair it with higher quality speakers.

However, given your budget constraints, I don't really think this will be a good option for you, and you'll be better off with what the others have suggested.

Good call, I was actually unaware of these and for the price that is not bad, especially since you've tried it.

I'm MR. Overkill, I would have suggested this or maybe this.

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0141JVEHS/

If you look at the image of the backside you can see multiple inputs for audio and video. You connect your TV to the hdmi out and your speakers to the speaker connectors.

This one is under 2K USD on amazon right now: LG Electronics OLED55B6P
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CDF9S1G/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1SEFVHSNX6UOK&coliid=I3COHDU9VVB4JK&psc=1

4K HDR OLED @ $2500 .

Samsung has some non-OLED 4k HDRs under $1000 during sales.

Amazon

Thanks!

This guy?

https://www.amazon.com/LG-Electronics-OLED55B6P-55-Inch-Ultra/dp/B01CDF9S1G

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CDF9S1G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apis_1504059558068

$1825 a C6

Still pretty good

You don't have to buy the last and bigger.

Not 60" but you can get a 55" LG OLED for 2k https://www.amazon.com/LG-Electronics-OLED55B6P-55-Inch-Ultra/dp/B01CDF9S1G

4K with HDR10 without 3D leaves you to focus on pure picture quality.

The best of the best is LG's OLED range.

https://www.amazon.com/LG-Electronics-OLED55B6P-55-Inch-Ultra/dp/B01CDF9S1G

Obviously it's pricey but currently LG lead the way with picture quality.

If this is too pricey LG have some good models such at this one for almost half the price which are generally highly rated: https://www.amazon.com/LG-Electronics-55UH8500-55-Inch-Ultra/dp/B01ARRCHSS/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1478590586&sr=1-2&keywords=lg+uh8500

Oh, but OLED is that cheap!

https://www.amazon.com/LG-Electronics-OLED55B6P-55-Inch-Ultra/dp/B01CDF9S1G

https://www.amazon.com/LG-Electronics-OLED55C6P-Curved-55-Inch/dp/B01CDDTZMK

If LG wanted to, they could be selling $500 27 inch 1080p OLED displays right now.

This is just my personal opinion, and I'm probably way more particular about televisions than most people, but I don't think any 4K TV that cost less than $400 is worth buying. I'm personally holding out for OLED TVs coming down in price.

Opinions on this tv at the listed price?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01CDF9S1G/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495779054&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=lg+oled+b6&dpPl=1&dpID=51ZYEFUOj6L&ref=plSrch

If it has to be 60 inch the KS8000, baring any backlight bleeding issues, is definitely the best bet. If 55 would work, OLED is pretty incredible - 1800 atm https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CDF9S1G?tag=rtings-tv-bm01a-20&ie=UTF8

you wont. It will actually be slightly higher for the holidays. At Best Buy, last years 55in b6 bottomed out at 1599 prior to black friday, and then went back up to 1799 and stayed there after black friday.


here's what amazons price history for the B6 is. notice the dip during november that was never matched again? it was for about 2 weeks before black friday.
https://camelcamelcamel.com/LG-Electronics-OLED55B6P-55-Inch-Ultra/product/B01CDF9S1G

Samsung UN40KU6300 40-Inch 4K Ultra HD Smart LED TV (2016 Model) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DUTL4OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ALA0xbTE25P8M

I bookmarked this one to buy after pay day, looks pretty solid. There are bigger versions but the price goes up (obviously)

I got a Samsung 40 inch which will replace my old RCA 1080 I've had since 2012. It's currently the best selling 4K set on Amazon and supports HDR as well. Plan is to sell my old TV for $150 or whatever I can get from Craigslist that way I'll end up spending only slightly under $300 on the 4K set because free Prime shipping and Amazon doesn't charge tax in my state.

Here's a link: Samsung UN40KU6300 40-Inch 4K Ultra HD Smart LED TV (2016 Model) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DUTL4OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KXX0xbVPR10VC

You can easily get a 4k TV for under $500

https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN40KU6300-40-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01DUTL4OI/ref=sr_1_2?s=tv&ie=UTF8&qid=1473447690&sr=1-2&keywords=4k+tv

https://www.amazon.com/VIZIO-D40u-D1-40-inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01A0LGV06/ref=sr_1_4?s=tv&ie=UTF8&qid=1473447690&sr=1-4&keywords=4k+tv

(not that I'd recommend these, but if you really wanted 4k and were on a budget, you can do it.)

See i have a samsung 4ktv and have never had a problem with the switch automatically switching to the switch unless i turn on the console while its in the dock or put it in the dock while its on, otherwize if the system is in sleep mode no switch happened to me, this is the samsung tv i have https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN40KU6300-40-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01DUTL4OI

There are some good 4K TVs, like this one (it was posted on this subreddit a while back via Costco, although I don't think they sell it anymore).

Drastic price difference? 28in Monitor vs 40in TV, the TV is bigger so it's a little more expensive.

The Samsung KU6300 is pretty good for that price range.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DUTL4OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XqkgybCVQTZNE

Edit: actually it's cheaper in terms of USD to Euros

The U6300 is only $48 more on Amazon right now... You guys think it's worth it?

https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN40KU6300-40-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01DUTL4OI

What do you guys think about this one?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DUTL4OI/ref=twister_B01FXPYXCW?_encoding=UTF8&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DUTL4OI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Just check the 1-star reviews on Samsung TV's, ie: Smart Features Inaccessible Unless You Agree to ads

This one has some of the best reviews for gaming on rtings:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01DUTL4OI/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

can you recommend something not trash? was thinking of the alienware but not so sure anymore. What do you think about tvs for monitors? Like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Sony-XBR43X800D-43-Inch-Ultra-Model/dp/B01FWIEO2E

Sony XBR43X800D 43" Class 4K HDR Ultra HD TV, Black (2016) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FWIEO2E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4-L0xb7TDC391 I'm looking at this one. Only has 8 bit hdr though. Also, I read that Dolby vision is actually better than hdr 10.

Here's the TV I was referring to:

https://www.amazon.com/Sony-XBR43X800D-Class-Ultra-Black/dp/B01FWIEO2E/

One of the primary benefits from HDR is a wider color gamut. The kicker is that there are many sets that support receiving an HDR10 signal, but some of the less expensive sets have panels that only support 8 bits of color versus the full 10 bits of color that HDR10 supports. An 8 bit panel will be able to display ~16.7 million colors while a 10 bit panel can display over 1 billion colors <put pinky to corner of mouth>.

This is a really nice TV at pretty decent price. I got one for me and two more for family members. It has hdr10 which is a really big plus. The color is on point as well. You won't be disappointed.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FWIEO2E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Wo2hyb2JQCPQX

43" is as small as you're going to find with 4K and HDR until some computer monitors start supporting HDR.

Seems like a pipe dream with the current market.

Probably the closest you'll get currently. Sony XBR43X800D 43-Inch 4K Ultra HD TV (2016 Model) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FWIEO2E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OA0lybFY3A7T8

That budget is low for a 4k hdr tv with low input lag. This is a pretty good tv but small https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/ol/B01FWIEO2E/ref=mw_dp_olp?ie=UTF8&condition=all.

I am in the same boat. I am going to get a PS4 Pro and a 40ish inch 4k HDR TV for my gameroom. I currently have a 32" 720p TV in there. I plan on sitting like 4-5 feet away from it, so it should be noticeable. I dont need anything super fancy/expensive, but I do want the HDR to be noticeable which is an issue with cheaper sets.

This is the one I think I have settled on:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FWIEO2E/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER


I did a bit of research and its supposed to be great for gaming and has a good HDR effect given the repetitively low price. Have you/anyone reading this found a better gaming oriented 4k/HDR 40"-45" TV for the price? I plan on pulling the trigger in November or December and want to make sure I do my due diligence on it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01FWIEO2E/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478462082&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX280_SY350_QL65&keywords=sony+43%22+4k+hdr&dpPl=1&dpID=41kTUHJonPL&ref=plSrch

It's a little over $600 but it's 4K and HDR. I'd get it if I hadn't just bought a similar sized set earlier this year.

You won't find one under $600. HDR10 is the literal cutting edge.

Here's one for about 700, but it's 43": https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FWIEO2E?tag=rtings-tv-bs10b-20&ie=UTF8

If you want 4k HDR10, you're looking in the $1k range for the next 1-2 years. Sorry mate :(

PS. That's why I'm waiting to buy a TV myself. Seeing what's in the cards next year.

It's on sale for half price right now for Prime Members.

I’m talking about this sitting near a window with an antenna connected to it which then casts over to a Fire Stick on any tv in the house.

Versus my current setup which would require me to run an antenna across the room (from tivo to window). Without sending my floor plan, I’m not sure how else to explain.

Don't know if you heard of this. Could be a game changer.

You're probably looking for something like Air TV or Fire TV Recast.

Have not used either so I have no input past knowing they exist.

As someone else in the thread pointed out, Plex DVR can record shows you can watch remotely, but I don't think you can watch any of it live without saving the file locally. The two links above are systems designed for what you seem to be asking for.

EDIT: See reply

amazon has an over the air DVR set now.
https://www.amazon.com/Fire-TV-Recast-over-the-air-DVR-500GB-75-hours/dp/B01J6A6H74

If you OTA TV and a DVR, the Recast from Amazon does that:
https://www.amazon.com/Fire-TV-Recast-over-the-air-DVR-500GB-75-hours/dp/B01J6A6H74/ref=pd_rhf_se_s_sspa_dk_rhf_search_pt_sub_0_5/138-6434292-4626838?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01J6A6H74&pd_rd_r=d57c5310-a8b7-4cdd-ac7a-4101f27d5dbe&pd_rd_w=Rkh9y&pd_rd_wg=cgtpd&pf_rd_p=ecc45d5a-dbea-434e-b2a9-a0dbcd5aa8f6&pf_rd_r=76FT7TFZ52TTJ36V0A7H&psc=1&refRID=76FT7TFZ52TTJ36V0A7H

US only though..

Sony XBR55X900E 55-Inch 4K Ultra HD Smart LED TV (2017 Model) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUG21R7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fA4EAb0Z60D9M

Go with that one and get it from amazon warehouse deals. Fantastic tv.

https://smile.amazon.com/Sony-XBR55X900E-55-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01MUG21R7/
This the smile link, a lot of websites that post deals put commission links without telling you. It starts with ref= after the SKU.

Amazon also had it on sale. Currently has it for $998.

Edit: link for lazy: Sony XBR55X900E 55-Inch 4K Ultra HD Smart LED TV (2017 Model) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUG21R7/

Edit 2: removed accidental referral

Again, when modifying your display driver you aren't making changes to the TV set in any way, shape, or form.
You're slightly modifying the software on your computer so that your computer will attempt to send a signal that the set supports, but doesn't advertise.

I'm not even sure this modification is necessary with the 900e. The responses in this thread seem to indicate it does support 1080p 120hz natively when attached to a PC:

https://www.reddit.com/r/bravia/comments/6j93ry/question_is_the_xbr_900e_series_a_120hz_screen/

Also, still on sale:
https://www.amazon.com/Sony-XBR55X900E-55-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01MUG21R7/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1523561454&sr=1-1&keywords=900e

You di not need to pay so much for the Sony necessarily. You can buy it from Amazon for $1,398 ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUG21R7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FGnizbDHBWHK8). Not sure where you live though so maybe it is more outside of the US.

what i would personally do: Bowers and wilkins 685 from bestbuy with the cash. & spend the rest on additional amazon gift cards. Sony 900e is currently 1200 on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Sony-XBR55X900E-55-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01MUG21R7/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500185495&sr=8-1&keywords=55+sony+900e

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01MUG21R7/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MUG21R7/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1498418263&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=sony+4k+tv&dpPl=1&dpID=41HZHaIc-VL&ref=plSrch

This is US 55 inch although I have the 49.

YouTube:

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCDjwEAfTmRQ-pREnINSliyA

https://youtu.be/BazQ5F3Wx8w

Okay so I believe I've narrowed it down to 3. Any input is appreciated.

https://m.costco.ca/Vizio-M65-E0-65-in.-SmartCast-4K-Ultra-HD-HDR-Plus-Home-Theatre-Display.product.100363358.html
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B01MUG21R7/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1_1_2?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B073X11WRK/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1_1_1?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1

What about this 43-Inch 4K Ultra HD Roku Smart LED TV? $300 sounds way too good to be true

How cheap is that tv gonna be?

Maybe a 43" ($280), 49" ($320), or 55" ($380) tcl Roku tv would be better.

All 4k.

https://www.amazon.com/TCL-43S405-43-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01N29XPO3

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MYGISTO/

https://www.amazon.com/TCL-55S405-55-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01MTGM5I9

In the same boat as you OP. Amazon has a 40" one from TCL, a brand I'm unfamiliar with, for $270 that I'm thinking about purchasing. If you have a PS4 Pro and want to do 4k there is this 43" one for $350.

Anyone have opinions on TCL?

edit: After glancing around for like two minutes on this sub it seems like TCL certainly won't be as high quality as some of the more expense brand names, but they still produce a pretty solid product for the price.

Looking at these:

ViewSonic XG2701 27" 144Hz 1ms 1080p FreeSync Gaming Monitor HDMI, DisplayPort https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A0ZRQTM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_k-kDzbZCAMR7S

TCL 43S405 43-Inch 4K Ultra HD Roku Smart LED TV (2017 Model) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N29XPO3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_walDzb5A5C730

You can get a Ryzen 5 1600 that includes a CPU cooler and a board for a good price. Choose the X370 Pro motherboard from asus if thats whats offered as a bundle from microcenter. Has overclocking headroom if you want, but not necessary.

Get yourself an R7 260x or above in my opinion as a GPU, I would tell you to get something better but GPU prices are so high right now.

Since you have the X370 Pro board now from asus, get yourself an M.2 SSD (About 120gb or more) and put windows and AutoCad on it. Then get yourself a decent 50 dollar range 1tb hard drive for long term storage.

Corsair has nice professional looking cases if you don't want the flash but don't want an ugly stock PC garbage box provided by friendly neighborhood HP and Dell pre builds.

Mouse and keyboard combo you can get real cheap on Amazon or Microcenter. That is of course unless you're looking for something like MLG grade with Cherry MX switches. I personally use an included keyboard from a pre built dell with my custom build pc to save money. Its a little loud on the key switches but its free and it does the job.

Pick up for yourself a diablotek 500 watt PSU from Microcenter, they are really cheap and surprisingly good for such a low price. They hold overclocked processors quite nicely. They aren't the best looking things out there but since you aren't getting a flashy case with windows or anything it won't matter

Since you will be shopping at microcenter for most of it I can pretty much guarantee you this build won't go close to 1800 dollars. So now you can spend all that money you saved on a sweet monitor and GPU for gaming on the side when your boss isn't looking. Remember to get extended warranties from Microcenter as they cover EVERYTHING except for theft and are the best thing ever.

Didn't do price checks or part builds for you but since I build all the time I can tell you from experience that these components won't break the bank.

As a little gift for you if your interested. You can get this TV and it has a decent screen with 4k HDR support at 120hz refresh rate. It not a monitor per say but it does a decent job at it with amazing specs. I know some casual gamers that use it for gaming:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N29XPO3?_encoding=UTF8&ref_=de_a_smtd&showDetailTechData=1#technical-data

Don't work with printers very often so I can't help you with that.

Hope this helps!

Ah, okay, I was more thinking of a 4k flatscreen like this. Is it not particularly suited for gaming?

http://amazon.com/TCL-43S405-43-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01N29XPO3/ref=asc_df_B01N29XPO3/

Sorryvlast post got removed, it'll probably be on sale Black Friday/Cyber Monday for even less

https://www.amazon.com/TCL-43S405-43-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01N29XPO3/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1503664790&sr=1-8&keywords=tv
This one, TCL is a good brand they make good computer monitors.
And for 329 dollars u cant do better than that.
When u watch 4k netflix ur mind will be so blown u would not regret for a second 4k upgrade.

and for the hdmi problem everyone has, u can get an hdmi split all tvs dont have many hdmi ports like is rare one who have more than 4.
https://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-HD1831-3-Port-Switch-Pigtail/dp/B008GVOVK0/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1503665138&sr=1-1&keywords=hdmi+split This will solve most of ur problems and also will be helpfull since it will make plugging hdmi accesible.

Wait for TVs to go on sale, don’t sell yourself short. Easy to find a good deal. But keep in mind you get what you pay for. HDR is big when looking for a tv. Games that don’t support 4k but have HDR is a nice boost to the color depth.

If you are patient grey Thursday/Black Friday/cyber Monday always have good deals.

This t.v. Is 100 bucks off amazon right now and seems to fit your budget. It is their 4 series.
I personally have never owned a tv from this company, I usually stay with Sony, Samsung, and LG and have yet to be disappointed.


4 series.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N29XPO3/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1527285148&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=4k+uhd+tv&dpPl=1&dpID=51xTjwmi4lL&ref=plSrch

6 series
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079N9HDNQ

Hey guys! Got a TV sitting in my living room still in the box it got delivered in.

This is the TV in question:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N29XPO3/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you're interested just shoot me a PM and I'm sure we could work something out!

> I was wondering what the ms of this TV is since it has 120Hz, 4k, and 40 inches. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N29XPO3/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
>
> What are the disadvantages or advantages of using a TV as your monitor? (I know about the angle viewing but that does not bother me)
>
> My current setup is using, https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824001095
>
> As my secondary and https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=9SIAC4Z5240434 as my primary.
>
> I would also be happy with a monitor or great TV (good response time?) along 32 inches.

Where do I find refresh rates?

Check this bad boy out

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N29XPO3?tag=rtings-tv-bs10b-20&ie=UTF8

This is the one I got.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N29XPO3/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N29XPO3/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I would, but I can't game on anything bigger. I tried before and had to downsize because it effected my gameplay so much. So that was the best to you found for that size range? How much better is it compared to the tv I have now? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N29XPO3?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

TCL 43S405 43 : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N29XPO3?pf_rd_p=c2945051-950f-485c-b4df-15aac5223b10&pf_rd_r=NZ97E3Y9SM2QCS8TKXXR


TCL 43S425 43 Inch : https://www.bestbuy.com/site/tcl-43-class-led-4-series-2160p-smart-4k-uhd-tv-with-hdr-roku-tv/5947248.p?skuId=5947248&ref=212&loc=1&ds_rl=1260573&ds_rl=1266837&ref=212&loc=1&ds_rl=1266837&gclid=Cj0KCQiA28nfBRCDARIsANc5BFBAWLAl7eGye4RBJkVrSgflIplZzZgAl59iQCa40KX4FxmIdm8uNGkaAhWSEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

https://www.amazon.com/TCL-43S405-43-Inch-Ultra-Smart/product-reviews/B01N29XPO3/ref=cm_cr_dp_d_show_all_btm?ie=UTF8&reviewerType=avp_only_reviews&sortBy=recent

Maybe I should just get this

i can try to give you some tips because i too came with almost the same question, and after reading various threads on reddit and other AV forums. i decided to get a 49 because thats the minimum size where HDR really kicks in. Also there arent any really good 43 tvs out there.

but i can try to name you some good 43 tvs, i have been on a journey while researching for a tv to buy.

decent 43 tvs:

TCL P607 & TCL S405 are a really good option and r/4k loves it, so does everybody who knows about this stuff. they are only availble in the stats, and the european TCL's arent as good as the Americans. I have read that tvs arent that bright for some people but you get alot for the money. very low input.

Samsung MU6300

Edge lit, bright and low input. It has higher rating on rtings then Nu7 series and sony X720e. tbf i really liked the Nu7000 in the stores.

I think you should read about some good tvs in 43 size and then go to your closest store and see them for yourself. like i said before, i seriously think you should upgrade to 49 and get a Sony Xe900/x900e or Xf900/x900f.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N29XPO3?tag=rtings-tv-bs10b-20&ie=UTF8

If it has to be a 43, then i would have gone for the TCL. only reason i didnt buy it was is that im not from the states. In my opinion you cant get a better tv for that size or money then a TCL. in a dark room, brightness shouldnt be a problem. Also search for TCL s405 owner thread on AV forums for experiences from the people who actually own the TV. i have told you from what i have read and it seem to be a very popular choice. good luck.

Edit: after a quick google search, it seems like TCL p607 comes in 43. defiantly go for p607 over S405

Yes it really is. If you're looking for a very reasonably priced TV that supports 4k and HDR, get one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N29XPO3/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have one and I also have a much more expensive 4k, HDR TV. I can't say that the TCL looks exactly as good as the more expensive TV, but it does look pretty darn good.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N32NCPM/ref=asc_df_B01N32NCPM5280449/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B01N32NCPM&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198091640568&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14865475115625700855&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9011471&hvtargid=pla-370055884305

This is what I'm looking at getting.

https://www.amazon.com/all-new-amazon-fire-tv-4k-uhd-streaming-media-player/dp/B01N32NCPM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1510775649&sr=8-1&keywords=fire+tv

I have both a Chromecast Ultra and new 4K Amazon Fire TV.

I find myself using the Fire TV a lot more often.

https://www.amazon.com/all-new-amazon-fire-tv-4k-uhd-streaming-media-player/dp/B01N32NCPM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1510987742&sr=8-1&keywords=fire+tv

I use it with 2nd gen Amazon Fire TV boxes and it works great.

Amazon stopped selling it awhile ago, now offering a $70 dongle that should work at least as well, I'd think. There's supposed to be a replacement 'box' model soon with Echo stuff built in, but if you don't want that Echo stuff, I wouldn't wait.

The Apple TV 4K is pretty nice, but at $180+, it's hard to justify over the Fire TV or Roku (though I didn't mention Roku above because the Vue app specifically on it isn't so good. It's apparently getting improved soon)

• https://www.ebay.com/p/Amazon-Fire-TV-2nd-Generation-Media-Streamer-Black/219488509
  
• or
  
• https://www.amazon.com/amazon-fire-tv-4k-uhd-streaming-media-player/dp/B01N32NCPM

That was true maybe 5-10 years ago when hardware acceleration was a new and unique feature but these days everything comes built in with it. Pick up one of these for $60, side-load Kodi on it and enjoy your 4K

https://www.amazon.com/all-new-amazon-fire-tv-4k-uhd-streaming-media-player/dp/B01N32NCPM

"You can pair Echo Studio to Fire TV Cube 1st Gen or 2nd Gen, Fire TV Stick 4K, or Fire TV (3rd Gen) for immersive entertainment, but it does not work with older generations of Fire TV Stick or Fire TV."

As of now you it looks like you can only pair the studio with the Fire Devices, to act like a sound bar

What device? This is the one I'm talking about.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N32NCPM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_aZg3Db6RGZ2XR

This came in a notification of a today-only [Alexa sale](http://www.Fire.com/ TV with 4K Ultra HD and Alexa Voice Remote (Pendant Design) | Streaming Media Player https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N32NCPM/)

link is live on amazon now: https://www.amazon.com/All-New-Ultra-Remote-Streaming-Player/dp/B01N32NCPM/ref=sr_tr_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1506540569&sr=1-1&keywords=fire+tv

looks like we'll have to wait til the end of october for full reviews.

I only use kodi to stream that's pretty much it, so you would recommend this one then? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N32NCPM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1510720086&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=amazon+fire+tv&dpPl=1&dpID=41i-QOwmwoL&ref=plSrch
hmm if that's the case I'll buy a 50ft cat6 cable and just run it around the wall

I checked out of curiosity it's this one bought it back in October of 2017 so it's a bit of a fossil it worked pretty well despite that : /

This is what it says on my Amazon order back in Feb-2018.

"All-new Fire TV with 4K Ultra HD and Alexa Voice Remote (2017 Edition, Pendant) | Streaming Media Player"

and this was the link https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N32NCPM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I know it is 4k cause I have watch 4k content. Maybe Amazon made a mistake with it?

All I know is this 4k is pretty laggy with the software compared to my Roku.

I would say that the Klipsch is a lot better and worth the extra $216, but then again, you would also need an amp and that would cost you a lot more. You just need to really determine if you want to go the passive route and have the ability to upgrade more down the road or get a simple powered system that will work just fine for what you need and sounds great, but not have the ability to upgrade components.

​

Here a few good options in either category though that would fit your budget:

​

Passive Setup:

Speakers:

Fluance Signature - $269 CAD

Polk S20 - $350 CAD

Elac Debut B6.2 - $343 CAD

Elac Uni-Fi UB5 - $522 CAD (Considered to be just as good as the Klipsch RP-150M)

Klipsch RP-150M - $289 US (plus shipping and taxes to Canada [$unknown])

SVS Prime - $629 CAD (Can’t tell if this listing is for a pair)

Amps:

SMSL AD18 - $174 CAD

Yamaha RX-V385 - $279 CAD

Denon AVR-S540BT - $377 CAD

​

Powered Setup:

Fluance Ai40 - $225 CAD

Fluance Ai60 - $403 CAD

Edifier S2000 Pro - $500 CAD

Vanatoo Transparent Zero - $359 US (plus shipping and taxes to Canada [$unknown])

​

Studio Monitor Setup:

Monitors:

JBL 305P MKII - $440 CAD

Interfaces:

Behringer UMC202HD - $104 CAD

Focusrite Solo 3rd Gen - $159 CAD

Steinberg UR22MKII - $180 CAD

​

The studio monitor setup is one of my favorites. The JBL’s sound amazing on a desktop, but I would not get one without an audio interface with balanced inputs to help reduce noise.

$800 is not much for a whole new system.

Jamo got a 5.0 system that could fit your budget, I think its the Jamo S 807. Denon makes some really good low budget receivers right now.


https://www.amazon.com/Jamo-Studio-809-HCS-WL-Walnut/dp/B07JJYWL22/


https://www.amazon.com/Denon-AVR-S540BT-Bluetooth-Compatible-Streaming/dp/B07C49F2LD/

99.9% of soundbars are hot garbage and waaay overpriced. I suggest a 3.1 setup with one center channel, left and right speakers and a subwoofer. Pick a receiver of your choice, wich can support this setup.

If you really want a soundbar, check out theses soundbars that do not suck: https://www.klipsch.com/products/heritage-theater-bar, https://www.nubert.de/soundbars/567/ (german site)

All the linked products are only recommendations, there are tons of great passive speakers.

DONT split the L/R

I am not aware of a new 5.1 AVR for under 150 anywhere that I would recommend (i.e. never Pyle).

Cheapest (I think( decent new on Amazon is 199 - https://www.amazon.com/Denon-AVR-S540BT-Bluetooth-Compatible-Streaming/dp/B07C49F2LD/

https://www.accessories4less.com/ will sell you a refurb 5.1 for under 150.

Craigslist you should find one for less than $100.

Separate question from my other comment, as they are different projects and in no way related.

I recently came across a nice collection of old B&W speakers. https://imgur.com/a/qYgmf4f
I am not knowledgeable at all about the topic, but as far as I understand I need at least a 3.1 receiver to work with them. I was recommended Denon by a friend, but I would like some outside sources on this.

Let's compare the $200 Denon AVR-S540BT Receiver and the $400 Denon AVR-S650H

Looking at the specs, it seems the only difference is one is newer, and has an antenna in the back. Is it justified in having twice the price, for only 10W more per channel, and some other oddball features?

Any reason you're tied down to a powered 2.0 system? I loved my Promedia's and when I was finally looking to upgrade after 6 years with them, I was looking at other all in one systems. After further reading, I was convinced to get an AV receiver and a pair of bookshelf speakers. I highly recommend going a similar route. It really gives you a lot more flexibility and room to grow.

I ended up with a Yamaha RX-V381 and a pair of Sony SSCS5's for about $300.

Since then I've added a center and will soon add a sub without having to replace the whole system.

The Sony's just went on sale again and a pair is $75. I'd get those and shop around for a receiver that matches your budget. (consider refurbished/renewed)

Whereas with the promedia, you had a single auxilliary cord that had to be ru nth whatever you're listening to. Having a receiver allows hookup to all your devices and lokely will add bluetooth as well. Changing inputs is done via remote rather than manually dealing with cords.

If you want to go super low budget that will still blow the promedias away, you can grab a cheap Lepy/Laepai amp like this to run a pair of bookshelfs (ie. Sony CS5 <--GET these):

https://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-2020TI-Instruments-TPA3118-Amplifier/dp/B071FJF4FF/ref=sr_1_3?crid=M2WIJL2PC1PM&keywords=lepai+amplifier&qid=1563810359&s=gateway&sprefix=lepai+amp%2Caps%2C207&sr=8-3#customerReviews

​

If you are set on a powered AIO system, my recommendation is JBL LSR305 over the two you mentioned. I have not heard either of those, but I temporarily owned the LSR305 and they were absurdly good. I only didn't keep them, because I got a noise complaint from the neighbors on day one and they were a little complicated dealing with multiple inputs.

​

A few receiver options:

https://www.amazon.com/Denon-AVR-S540BT-Bluetooth-Compatible-Streaming/dp/B07C49F2LD

​

https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/denavrs540bt/denon-avr-s540bt-5.2-ch-x-70-watts-bluetooth-a/v-receiver/1.html

​

https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/denavrs730h/denon-avr-s730h-7.2-ch-x-75-watts-a/v-receiver-w/heos/1.html

​

Link to Sony Bookshelfs (also at best buy):

https://www.amazon.com/Sony-SSCS5-3-Driver-Bookshelf-Speaker/dp/B00O8YLMVA

Do you only want 2.0? Don't want or need a center channel or surrounds?

You could start with a 5.1 receiver and 2 speakers and add center and sub later........then surrounds

https://www.amazon.ca/Denon-Receiver-Audio-Component-AVRS540BT/dp/B07C49F2LD

https://www.amazon.ca/Jamo-Studio-803-BLK-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B07J288BRK

https://www.amazon.ca/Jamo-Studio-803-BLK-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B07J288BRK

I run 3 of these for R / C / L

https://www.amazon.ca/Micca-MB42X-C-Channel-Speaker-Tweeter/dp/B00HHFBEK6/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=Micca+mb42x&qid=1567466525&s=gateway&sr=8-6

.

https://www.amazon.ca/Fluance-Surround-Including-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B016OQ17FU

https://www.amazon.ca/Jamo-Studio-803-HCS-WH-Cinema/dp/B07JJP96NT

Dayton Audio sub1000 probally a Better sub than the Yamaha

https://www.amazon.ca/Dayton-Audio-SUB-1000-10-Inch-Subwoofer/dp/B0063NU3AA/

Reciever: https://www.amazon.com/Denon-AVR-S540BT-Bluetooth-Compatible-Streaming/dp/B07C49F2LD/

Subwoofer:https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-SW-8MKS-powered-subwoofer-theater/dp/B008NCD2PC

Speakers: https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-SP-BS22-LR-Designed-Bookshelf-Loudspeakers/dp/B008NCD2LG/

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F174060660626

https://www.amazon.com/Denon-AVR-S540BT-Bluetooth-Compatible-Streaming/dp/B07C49F2LD/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=denon&qid=1574484822&sr=8-3

Get speaker wire and stands with the leftover $. If you ever decide to get a subwoofer, save up for a quality one. Don't buy something cheap just to get it in there. With your budget and your limited time for research, this is your best bang for your buck and all in stock ready to ship.

This is one I found.
It has a coaxal port on it that says digital audio in, but it also has speaker wire hook up. Does that mean I can hook up either or.

Look at picture 2 on Amazon

Denon AVR-S540BT Receiver, 5.2 channel, 4K Ultra HD Audio and Video, Home Theater System, built-in Bluetooth and USB port, Compatible with HEOS Link for Wireless Music Streaming https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C49F2LD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yw5UCb4C1GC4T

>Denon AVR-S540BT (refurbished)

28% 1 star reviews: https://smile.amazon.com/product-reviews/B07C49F2LD/ref=acr_search_hist_1?ie=UTF8&filterByStar=one_star&showViewpoints=0

for my tv buying i usually look towards TCL. im not sure if yiu care about the whole "tv having apps thing", but its only around 30 bucks over your price if you have amazon prime! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DK5PZFY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.0tkDbQQBM5BV

I have this one:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DK5PZFY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Why so small? You can get this for really cheap:
https://www.amazon.com/TCL-50S425-inch-Smart-Roku/dp/B07DK5PZFY?th=1&psc=1

Much better experience if you’re in America. 24” is too small IMO. Even if you’re sitting just over 5 feet away.

What country are you from?

how do i tell if its a 6 series? is this a 6 series? TCL 43S425 4K Smart Roku LED TV (2018) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DK5PZFY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_taVVBb8V4CFY7

Thoughts on this?
https://www.amazon.com/TCL-43S425-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B07DK5PZFY

I've used this TV for over a year and a half. It's great.

Awesome thank again! Would you say the TCL 6 series is worth the extra money over the TCL 5 series?

Also do you know what makes these two TCL 4ks different?

TCL 43S425 43 Inch 4K Ultra HD Smart Roku LED TV (2018) ($250)

TCL 43S517 43-Inch 4K Ultra HD Roku Smart LED TV (2018 Model) ($300)

Do they have 120Hz at 4K or 1080p 120Hz?

A TCL 43" is only $230 right now on Amazon. That's a damn good deal and the pixel density is a little higher than a 27" 1440p. Low input lag for a TV too.

Why are you thinking of running a lower than 4K resolution on a 4K screen? Lower end GPU?

Quick release stands should be fine if you need them. As long as the lighthouses are stable anything works.

I bought the FastCap mounts... and didn't use them. They are overly obtrusive and you are much better served, imo, by installing small corner shelves or just mounting the lighthouse's included stands to the wall. It's really not worth putting up those stands. They are neat but imo not the best way to go.

For my VR room I used the following to provide unobtrusive access to the VR Pc (note the PC is in the closet and the door can be closed when in use):

Keyobard mount (I then used a Logitech keyboard and trackball with magnets to secure them when the mount is closed): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018D5ALDY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

TV wall mount and a 4k TV (40 inch). One note here... I don't recommend this for a larger 4k tv like what I have here as you are too close to the display when using the keyboard. It's great for people to see whats going on while observing but it's harder to work with when accessing the PC out of VR. Use a smaller display.

TV and mount:
TV:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DK5PZFY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

TV Mount:
ttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WYVBR0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'll post pictures of the room sometime. I like what the OP did with the gym mats. Good look and protection but if you do your chaperone properly it's probably not necessary (but certainly doesn't hurt).

Lastly I have all of the equipment running on Smartthings controlled switches so I can power on the "room" (PC, display, lighthouses, etc etc) on demand. I normally turn off the PC normally and have BIOS set to power on the PC when power is restored (ie the Smartthings switch is turned on). So I can tell my Amazon Echo to "Alexa, turn on the VR Room" and everything powers on and is ready for use when I get there.

I have a 2018 Tcl/Roku 43" and its working flawless & was out of box with a 4k stick/remote. Have you updated tv software? also you can update your remotes IR profiles. TCL 43S425 43 Inch 4K Ultra HD Smart Roku LED TV (2018)

1080p upscaling has improved quite a bit from the early days. You're hard-pressed to find a 4K TV that doesn't do it well.

1080p displays, at least as far as TVs go, aren't a very great market to stay in. Less and less are being developed, especially good ones, and 4K televisions can be found for a great price.

If you'd like a couple recommendations:

TCL S425 43" - $249 (RTings review) (50" is $50 more, 55" is $100 more)

Its input lag is respectable. Not the fanciest TV, but it would fit your needs well while not mutilating your wallet.

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Vizio P-Series 55" - $699 (RTings review)

When compared to the aforementioned TCL, the input lag isn't better, but you do get a lot more features packed into this TV than you would the TCL.

In what country is the 43X800D $1280?

https://www.amazon.com/Sony-XBR43X800D-43-Inch-Ultra-Model/dp/B01FWIEO2E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498834368&sr=8-1&keywords=x800d

This is probably the best option with HDR feature, if you wanna spend an extra $50. $697 LG 55 inch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01FWIEO2E/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1473455111&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=4k+TV+HDR&dpPl=1&dpID=41kTUHJonPL&ref=plSrch

I think Amazon has it for $1198, but includes installation....
https://www.amazon.com/Sony-XBR55X900E-55-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01MUG21R7

I'm fairly sure it's still current. I might be wording it wrong though, it was released last year. It's got a diamond shaped square that dangles from a HDMI connection and built-in Alexa.

​

Here's the Amazon link for reference

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N32NCPM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here is part of the write up u/zeos did. If you want to read more go to r/zeos.


Pick a budget (usually above $500) and assemble your perfect system. If you don't think you can afford a good system right away consider starting with a 5.1 receiver and only two decent speakers. That basic 2.0 can have a sub added in the future making it a 2.1 and as funds become available you can add rears or move the initial speakers to the rear, get better fronts and then add a center. There is no harm in building a system up over time.

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NOTES

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{5.1 vs 7.1 Note:} Your room makes this determination. If the room you are in doesn't have ~6 feet behind your seating positions you are likely not going to fit a 7.1 and should stick to 5.1


{.1 and .2} This simply means a subwoofer(s). Since it isn't a full range channel they just indicate it as an addon. Don't worry about having a .1 and wanting two subs. A simple RCA SPLITTER can give that to you.

{MultiEQ, Audyssey, Room Correction} These are features/programs that receivers come with to automatically "fix" room acoustics. It uses a supplied microphone to try and detect speaker response range, distance, reverb delay, etc etc etc.. It can help oddly shaped or echoy rooms OR with mis-matched/bad speakers. You aren't required to run it but I recommend it if you hear any issues you don't like. (results vary)

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Surround Receivers-------

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Look for the cheapest unit that fits ALL your needs (# of HDMI inputs, 5.1 or 7.1, Legacy inputs (S-Video, RCA-Video for old game consoles), Airplay, etc) Remember to mostly Ignore wattage (more than 90wpc is enough for 99% of speakers) and stick to the brands listed below or message me if you find a good deal. Don't be afraid to look at last years models, most times very few changes occur and only a few "smart" features or HDMI ports are added.

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-#-|Item------------------|Description - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -|Cheapest|
:----|:----|:----|:----
1 | Denon| This is my most preferred brand. They are very clean looking, have amazing sound quality and some little features I like. Preset buttons and 1/2db volume increments make me happy. Affordability for beginners. | 5.1--7.1
2 | Marantz| Featuring the only "slim" line of receivers on the market and absolutely state of the art UI and remote features. Amazing reliability and great support. BUT you will be paying extra for these features. | 5.1--7.1
3 | Yamaha| Sporting a remarkable amount of different receivers you will have to do some sorting. They have good sound quality and TONS of inputs including legacy but tend to have a confusing setup and remote layout. | 5.1--7.1
4 | Onkyo| Normally higher on my recommended lists some Onkyo AVR's have been plagued with recent design flaws and overheating issues. Still I can't fault everything they make so read reviews and choose wisely. | 5.1--7.1
5 | Pioneer| The Polk of receivers. They work and can be found at a bargain but since the Pioneer Elite line exists they tend to leave a ton of features off these entry level AVR's. That just means you can get them cheap.| 5.1--7.1
6 | Harmon/Kardon| Stylish but I can't find anything to love about H/K. They "work" but don't DO anything better than anybody else. You can usually find these at brick and Mortar Stores which means price matching heaven. | 5.1--7.1
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A 2.1 system made of individual components (not a theater-in-a-box) will still knock your socks off if you're used to a soundbar. I think high quality audio is more immersive over mediocre surround sound anyways.

I went for maximum bang for the buck with my setup, sound quality improves drastically with every dollar spent up to a point. The return gets marginal once you soend more than $300 on a receiver, $150 on bookshelf speakers, and $200 on a subwoofer.

I'd recommend the following parts for a good setup and I listed some budget options you could substitute without losing too much quality:

Receiver: Yamaha RX-V377 or RX-V375 (what I have). They're $250 and $220 respectively (the 375 is usually $200) and they both have enough HDMI inputs for any normal person. The 377 supports 4K passthrough so it may be more future proof but I don't think 4K will catch on (just like 3D) since the benefits are marginal at typical viewing distances.

Speakers: Pioneer SP-BS22-LR's (what I have) or Micca MB42X's. Both are frequently on sale for $80-100 and they both sound awesome. If you're on a budget, the Dayton B652's are legendary for the the price ($40). They changed (cheapened) the design and ruined it last year but quickly brought the original design back. They fixed their mistake but they could ruin it again at any time.

Subwoofer: Bic F12 America (what I have). It's $190 but it will ruin your perception of every subwoofer you've ever owned. Once you experience crisp, clear bass you can never go back to over amplified 6" "woofers" like you get with a soundbars or the plastic junk that comes in boxed 5.1 kits. If you're on a budget, the Monoprice 12" sub is $108 and is supposed to be the absolute minimum you can spend to get something acceptable.

Ancilliaries: Buy your cables from Amazon (Amazon Basics brand) or Monoprice but I highly recommend this $9, paintable cable management kit and an afternoon of patience. Your wires will be invisible and your sound system will make your friends jealous.

Ah yes sorry.

I'm using the NooElec NESDR Mini 2 SDR with stock antenna. It's frequencies are 24MHz-1750MHz. And what "settings" do you mean? There are multiple tabs that have settings.

If you're crafty enough you could assemble an ADS-B receiver out of a Raspberry Pi parts are available on Amazon.de and Amazon.co.uk (I looked on Amazon.nl but they don't stock them).

You could then build your own antenna such as a coax colinear which doesn't require any soldering, just a hobby knife and electrical tape (PVC pipe optional but recommended).

Edit: direct links for parts

Raspberry Pi
RTLSDR (the receiver)
MCC to F adapter (this ships from China, be prepared to wait a month)

Make everything from RG6 TV coax which you can get pretty much anywhere for pennies and don't worry about anything referring to "impedance matching" are my two suggestions.

B6 has some strange input lag issues which I dont believe have been fixed.These lag issues were not present on the rest of the OLED x6 series.

BTW, the 55" B6 is already under $2000 --> https://www.amazon.com/LG-Electronics-OLED55B6P-55-Inch-Ultra/dp/B01CDF9S1G/

OLED is dominated by LG.
There is currently the B6 model on sale but a little over your budget.
Amazon and TV Review 1, TV Review 2

Other brands such as Samsung have QLED and Vizio with their XLED TVs but they simply do not compare and are honestly over priced.

I mean, right now on Amazon you can get a 4K Samsung 40" for $427 shipped.

If we take it a step further and look at [CamelCamelCamel] (http://camelcamelcamel.com/Samsung-UN40KU6300-40-Inch-Ultra-Smart/product/B01DUTL4OI) you can see that this price is the current bottom, but I think by the holidays the prices are going to fall through the current floor.

EDIT: Clarification, I don't pay Amazon tax directly since I live in a tax-free state.

Samsung UN40KU6300 40-Inch 4K Ultra HD Smart LED TV (2016 Model) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DUTL4OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_EEGuxbDSW28XH

I got this HDTV which is of very similar quality. It has a beautiful picture and only 19 ms of input delay. 4k @ 60FPS @ 4:4:4

Roku 3: $94.99

Apple TV: $92.95

Those are the only two I bothered to check against. It's admittedly pretty close, but given this is revision 1.0, even pricing equal to established competition seems high, IMHO.

Regardless, even ignoring the additional $10 and looking at them as equally-priced, we're still decidedly not looking at a loss-leader.

Oled would be 2-3 grand (depending on size) unless you're buying them the second they release, which is dumb.

Just because some oled somewhere costs 6k doesn't mean it costs 6k to get into the oled game.

Source: bought an LG B6 65" OLED 2 months ago for $3,000.

Edit: lol, downvoted for the truth? LG OLED with HDR, 55 inch for $2,000 / 65 inch for $3,500.

4K TVs are dirt cheap nowadays, though.

This set is $650

https://www.amazon.com/Sony-XBR49X800D-Class-Ultra-Black/dp/B01FWIEO2E/

Nice rig!! Go with a big TV!!!

Something like THIS You totally want HDCP 2.2 so make sure you're getting a TV that will support it.

Happy 4k gaming!!