Best additive manufacturing products according to redditors
We found 4,727 Reddit comments discussing the best additive manufacturing products. We ranked the 1,418 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
1. Monoprice Maker Select 3D Printer v2 With Large Heated (200 x 200 x180 mm) Build Plate + Free Sample PLA Filament And MicroSD Card Preloaded With Printable 3D Models.
Includes Heated Build Plate, 2 Gb Micro Sd Card and Sample PLA Filament. Compatible softwares: Such as Cure, Repeater, or Simplify 3D, the Maker Select is compatible with Windows, Mac OS X, and LinuxQuality Assurance/Technical Assistance: Live chat at Monoprice.com Mon through Fri 6am – 6pm PST ...
2. Monoprice Select Mini 3D Printer v2 - White With Heated (120 x 120 x 120 mm) Build Plate, Fully Assembled + Free Sample PLA Filament And MicroSD Card Preloaded With Printable 3D Models
Support for All Filament Types: The heated build plate and wide range of extruder temperatures allow this printer to work with any type of filament, from basic filaments, such as ABS and PLA, to more advanced materials, such as conductive PLA, wood and metal composites, or dissolvable PVA.Supported ...
3. Official Creality Ender 3 3D Printer Fully Open Source with Resume Printing Function 220x220x250mm
Resume Print Function: Ender 3 has the ability to resume printing even after a power outage or lapse occurs.Easy and Qucik Assembly: It comes with several assembled parts, you only need about 2 hours to assemble 20 nuts well.Advanced Extruder Technology: Upgraded extruder greatly reduces plugging ri...
4. BIQU Heat Bed Power Module Expansion Hot Bed MOS Tube for 3D Printer
A general add-on heated bed power expansion module for 3D printerCompletely solve the hot bed power is too large and the load current issue. It can work with the Anet A8With this addon module to your 3D printer motherboard you can lead the maximum current up to 15AUnder the premise of normal heat di...
5. XTC-3D High Performance 3D Print Coating - 24oz. Unit
Epoxy Coating for 3D Printed ObjectsSmooths 3D Printed ObjectsCompatible with SLA and SLS prints.It works with PLA, ABS, Laywoo, Powder Printed Parts and other rigid media. It also can be used to coat EPS, EPDM and urethane foam as well as wood, plaster, fabric, cardboard and paper.
6. Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend with Slotted Cooling Block for Wanhao i3 w/.4mm Nozzle
Fits: Wanhao i3, Monoprice Maker Select 3D Printer v2, Cocoon Create 3D Printer.4mm Nozzle Plated with HIGH LUBRICITY WEAR RESISTANT TwinClad XT CoatingKit Includes: Thermal Barrier Tube, Plated Nozzle and Slotted Cooling blockSlotted Clamping system, No set screw to ding and damage thermal tube, Si...
7. ZIRO 3D Printer Filament PLA 1.75mm Marble Color 1KG(2.2lbs) - White
We suggest setting the heat bed to 50℃ or use mask tape on the heat bed.The surface of printed objects looks like Marble.Suggest using a 4 mm or larger nozzle.Low print speed is recommended.Suitable for most 3D Printer and 3D Pen.Suggest print temperature:190-220Vacuumed Sealed and free Bone bag f...
8. ANYCUBIC Photon UV LCD 3D Printer Assembled Innovation with 2.8'' Smart Touch Color Screen Off-line Print 4.53"(L) x 2.56"(W) x 6.1"(H) Printing Size
Entry-level：Easy to set up, leveling was a breeze. Software is relatively simple to use. Only 4 settings far fewer settings to adjust vs FDM printer.Incredible Resolution：Make tiny parts with accuracy, much smoother detail and quality than the FDM printer.Fast Shipping: Multiple models on a buil...
9. Silk Gold PLA Filament 1.75mm 3D Printer Filament 1 KG 2.2 LBS Spool 3D Printing Material CC3D Shine Silky Shiny Metallic Metal PLA Filament
No need polishing, the surface of the prints have a shiny metallic color, just like real gold.Highlight silk pla filament.Made of high quality with American raw materials.Easy to printing,support almost all FDM 3D printers on Market.For better printing effect,Recommended print speed:30-45mm/s.Indust...
10. Capricorn Bowden PTFE Tubing XS Series 1 Meter for 1.75mm Filament (Genuine Capricorn Premium Tubing)
Brand: CapricornLength: 1 MeterID: 1.95mm ± 0.05mmOD: 4.0mm
11. HATCHBOX 3D Printer Filament, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03mm, 1.75 mm, 1 kg Spool, Wood
1KG (2.2 lb) SpoolWood 3D Printer Filament Vacuumed Sealed With DesiccantRecommended Extrusion/Nozzle Temperature 175°C - 220°C (347°F - 428°F)1.75mm Filament Diameter (Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03mm)Spool Diameter: 7.88" - Spool Width: 2.69" - Spool Hub Hole Diameter: 2.20"
12. Comgrow Creality Ender 3 Pro 3D Printer with Removable Build Surface Plate and UL Certified Power Supply 220x220x250mm
REMOVABLE BUILD SURFACE PLATE: Provide all-round protection to your 3D printer build plate and ensure consistent temperature throughout the build surface. Easy to remove the printing models after cooling.SAFE POWER SUPPLY: Ender 3 Pro comes with a UL Certified power supply, protecting your printer f...
13. 3D Print Removal Tool
120 mm / 4.5 inch long flexible blade helps to reach underneath large printsRounded edge is safer and less likely to tear print bed tape.Speeds removal of parts from print bed.Useful to pop prints off the bed, and to scrape off stuck-on plastic.An essential addition to your 3D Printer Tool Kit.
14. FlashForge 3D Printer Creator Pro, Metal Frame Structure, Acrylic Covers, Optimized Build Platform, Dual Extruder W/2 Spools, Works with ABS and PLA
Full manufacturer's warranty fulfilled by Flashforge, and free email support provided by expert FlashForge techniciansA sturdy metal frame that is substantially more stable than the Creator's original wood frame.Build volume 8.9 X 5.8 X 5.9 inchesAviation level aluminum plate with a thickness of 6.3...
15. CHPOWER CR-10 Extruder Upgraded Replacement, Aluminum MK8 Drive Feed 3D Printer Extruders for Creality Ender 3, CR-10, CR-10S, CR-10 S4, CR-10 S5
UPGRADE: Right hand extruder kit - Perfect replacement for Creality 3D Printers ENDER3, ENDER5, CR-10 Series, CR-10 S4, CR-10 S5, CR-10 Mini, CR-10S, CR-10 Plus. Upgrade your Creality 3D Printer Extruder with our New "Metal Anodised Aluminum" Upgrade Kit.STABLE and DURABLE: Full metal aluminum alloy...
16. QIDI Technology Dual Extruder Desktop 3D Printer QIDI TECH I, Fully Metal Frame Structure, Acrylic Covers, with2 Free Filaments, Works with ABS,PLA
FDM technology;dual extruder;obtained CE,FCC,ROHS certificates;QIDI TECHNOLOGY is registered Trademark by Edify Technology INCAviation level aluminum plate guarantee its surface is completely flat and will not warp during heating processEasy to use software for simple customization of 3D modelsFully...
17. HICTOP Upgraded Replacement Aluminum MK8 Extruder Drive Feed for Creality 3D Printer Ender 3/3Pro CR-10, CR-10S, CR-10 S4, and CR-10 S5
[UPGRADING]: Original Aluminum Drive Feed for Creality Ender 3/3Pro CR-10, CR-10 S4, CR-10 S5, it is stable and durable.[REPLACEMENT]: MK8 extruder drive feed kit, can replace acrylic parts of Creality Ender 3/3Pro CR-10, CR-10 S4, CR-10 S5.[Easy TO USE]:for 1.75mm filament of 3D printer MK8 bowden ...
18. GO-3D PRINT 130mm x 160mm Borosilicate Glass Plate Bed Flat Polished Edge w/Corners Cut for Monoprice MP Select Mini 3D Print
Size: 130mm x 160mm x 3mm w/ Corners CutTo print with ABS or PLA, lightly spray the surface of the glass with AquaNet hairspray, then install the glass.Be sure to print your Z Spacer for our 3mm Borosilicate Glass BedFit Monoprice MP Select Mini / Pro 3D Printer, Malyan M200 w/ Corners Cut for the L...
19. OSOYOO 3D Printer Kit with RAMPS 1.4 Controller + Mega 2560 board + 5pcs A4988 Stepper Motor Driver with Heatsink + LCD 12864 Graphic Smart Display Controller with Adapter For Arduino RepRap
3D printer Kit guide: 3D printer Kit guide: http://osoyoo.com/driver/3D%20printer%20instructions.pdf3D Printer Controller RAMPS 1.4 interfaces an Arduino Mega2560 board. The modular design includes plug in stepper drivers and extruder control electronics on an Arduino-compatible MEGA shield for easy...
20. Upgrade 3D Printer Parts MK8 Extruder Aluminum Alloy Block Bowden Extruder 1.75mm Filament for Creality 3D Ender 3,CR-7,CR-8, CR-10, CR-10S, CR-10 S4, and CR-10 S5
Original Aluminum Drive Feed for Creality 3D CR-7, CR-8, CR-10, CR-10 S4, CR-10 S5, it is stable and durable.MK8 extruder drive feed kit, can replace acrylic parts of CR-10, CR-10 S4, CR-10 S5.Full Metal Aluminum AlloyUsed for 1.75mm filamentDIY aluminum block, need to assembly by yourself
I'm using a FlashForge Creator Pro from Amazon. It is printing with Hatchbox filament from Amazon. The printer fluctuates in price. I got mine for $1000 so it should go back to that price. Printing is more of an art then a science, but you should have a pretty good technical background to make your life easier. Expect to have to take an extruder apart to clean it out or fiddle with settings. You will have failed prints and you will have awesome one. I knew really nothing about 3D printing 2 weeks ago, but I watched videos and did research. If you have any questions I can probably answer them.
We're having a LAN party so...I decided to cut up an existing heartstone model from thingiverse for multi-material.
I'll upload the model to thingiverse later today for my fellow nerds/geeks.
Print time: 35hrs
The stone filament worked, surprisingly, great with the multi-material. Multi-material is insanely picky about filament quality so I'm pretty happy with the outcome. The first print I tried had some bleeding with the blue, so I increased the wipe tower a bit, which solved the issue.
After months of fighting with the MMU, I think I've finally got it tuned in...knocks on wood.
I got the Monoprice Select Mini (and lucked out, as it was freshly in stock so I didn't have to wait). Cheap, simple, and thoroughly functional.
I didn't know a damn thing about 3d printing going in, and now I have an army of minis that makes my wife gently sigh in exasperation every time she sees it.
just a cheap generic gold silk pla
What exactly are you asking?
The price of the filament is $32 for a spool of 1kg.
If you're asking how much it would cost for a company to print it for you, that would depend a lot on the company.
ZIRO 3D Printer Filament PLA... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IIAC2MW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
This one is a pretty good one with excellent reviews. May need some tinkering though
Not plastic. Resin, the Anycubic is a DLP printer, using a liquid resin and a UV display to print the layers. The quality is perfect as perfect as the model you load into the machine. no print lines, this model I only needed supports on the shoulder pads. Everything else was straight printed
Here are some links
They're getting pretty cheap -- I picked mine up brand new for $230.
Nope, just used Golden filament
Silk Gold 3D Printer PLA Filament... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XRPYXP2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
SILK PLA is amazing. it DOES have serious issues. the stuff is crazy strong but very very poorly sticks to itself (brittle layer adhesion) Print it hot 220c higher if the plastic behaves for you.
so thin parts? forget it. your not likely to get it off the bed without cracking it (use ultra base)
and even 3 perimeter 25% infill grid parts can "snap" if the nozzles catches an edge (broke my adalinda dragon a few times) and if you drop it it will break.
BUT the results are simply stunning.
Here are some links (gold is not in stock that I can find right now) these are direct non affiliate links. if you want to help me out goto todays3dprint.com and use any of the links their (and then these links) but you don't have to.
Silver (I have not tried this one but they all print the same)
if this one was prime I would be ordering one as it looks VERY nice.
These from 3d Solutech are dirt cheap and some of my favorites! I have printed with all of them except the lavendar. I have it just have not used it yet in a print.
They call them "ultra pla"
sample print Drogon
Blue (my favorite)
Sample Print Adalinda (75 hour print truly stunning)
Green (out of stock right now)
Sample Print. Aria Dragon (another truly stunning model)
Sample Print (Loubie Swan)
Red (really pink I have yet to find a true RED silk they all come out pink)
Sample Print (faceted Tree)
Here is the GOLD I used (sample print squirrel)
but its not available right now (not sure if it is coming back or not)
again. its a PAIN IN THE ASS filament but damn are the results incredible. worth the suffering :-)
again the links are "clear" direct links. if you want to help me visit one of the links to amazon in my videos first which will help me out. or use the direct links here if not.
in general search for "ultra" or "silk" PLA.
Poly Alchemy ALSO makes some disgustingly gorgeous SILK PLA's !! check out Night Shade and Night Sky in particular to be truly awestruck with the beauty of these filaments
Here are some higher resolution images of some of these filaments
Poly Alchemy Night Shade (stunning and dark)
Poly Alchemy Night Sky (I love this one)
Poly Alchemy Bubble Gum
Elixr is NOT CHEAP $30 for 750 grams or something like that. (its around $50 a kilo)
in the US Printedsolid.com sells it.
3D Solutech Ultra Green
As you might be able to tell I REALLY like these plastics :-)
EDIT: HIGH RES ALBUM HERE - https://m.imgur.com/a/CxDxI7d
GIF here: https://giphy.com/gifs/3dprint-U5JfGDUzxcIf1UURwx
This was printed on my Ender 3 pro at .16 mm layer height.
The model is the T-Rex skull from MakerBot: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:308335
The filament used is Silk Gold PLA from CC3D: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XRPYXP2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QFsCDbK11H8N8
Some more details here :
These are just concept boards I'm making, nothing too serious. They're powered by Teensy 3.2s, have Kailh White Box switches (with temporary caps), and the sticks on the corners are 3DS XL (I believe) joysticks.
The purpose of the joysticks was to have some analog controls, and be able to change their functionality while in use. From mouse, to controller, to more niche functions like quick highlighting, or whatever else I can come up with. Suggestions would be appreciated!
The case isn't anything too special. It's "Marble" PLA, and it has a bunch of holes in it for the purpose of being able to switch wrist rests, or potentially hard mount them to a chair or something similar. The key caps aren't in any particular configuration. I just put on what I had to fit the profiles I wanted, so the outliers are basically random.
If you have any questions or suggestions, let me know! This is just a test / proof of concept, so I'd love to heard your ideas.
EDIT: Adding some more details.
The plastic extruder is garbage. I've added the aluminum upgrade to three Creality printers and it has been perfect every time.
Oh come on, you can get a 3D printer for practically the same price as a normal printer.
The picture has a label, Ziro... so it's Ziro Marble Filament. Bit of a misnomer though because it's actually more of a peppered plastic than it is marble. Looks cool though
It was this from amazon!
The printer? It's this guy.
ANYCUBIC Photon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078N2TSYS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gpuKDbAPQE7PM
What is big?
What are you planning on printing in? PLA like normal people or ABS which needs a heated bed and to be much better ventilated?
Anycubic i3 Mega is 8.3 x 8.3 x 8.1 inches
If you're literally just looking for the cheapest way into 3D printing Microcenter has PowerSpec Duplicator i3 Mini for $150.
Its build area is 5.9" x 5.9" x 4.5" and it uses 1.75mm PLA
You'll probably be printing a lot more things smaller if you're experimenting around since double the length, width, and height cubes the volume (though there's a lot more filament in the shell than infill).
Also, Cura or any other slicer that works on Linux is going to take .stl files and output gcode files to an SD Card and you can then print from the SD card in the printer without the computer attached.
Anycubic boasts 10 microns, but the layer height 100-400 is going to be your main source of "quality" in my opinion and it can match that. What you're giving up is mostly the ability to print ABS, potentially the ability to print Glow-in-the-dark PLA (you need a hardened steel rather than brass tip for this), and heated bed.
Obviously, the Creality C10 and Tevo Tornado and if it's me, and I have $350 in my hand, I'm going to grab a Tevo Tornado.
And of course: Monoprice's Budget Model is small, but gives you the heated bed and hot-end temperatures to do ABS, etc. if you wanted to.
I'm pretty sure that they can all just print GCODE from your SD Cards.
I'd be remiss if I didn't plug Octo-print
So creating this took a bit of practice and patience. Basically, I built the 3d model from scratch using a software called fusion 360. Once I got the model built I used Simplify 3d to get the printing parameters set (layer hight, print speed, nozzle/bed temp etc...)
You then send that file directly to the printer for printing. I’m using a JG Aurora A5s which is a relatively cheap intro printer. I loaded it up with some wood PLA filament (amazon link for reference: HATCHBOX 3D Printer Filament, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03mm, 1.75 mm, 1 kg Spool, Wood https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01092XXD4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3AulDbTCWTM9X).
I’m not sure exactly how this filament is made but it seems like a mixture of saw dust and plastic that functions almost exactly like the normal PLA plastic most 3d printers use.
Anyways, once the print is done. (This took about 4-5hrs) you can sand it down and polish out any imperfections the printer may have left. And also being wood, it will absorb any type of wood stain.
You can still see some layer lines but if I adjust the layer hight and put more effort into sanding, then those would be a lot less noticeable.
Hope this helps!
Would it influence your decision if the Wanhao was $200 cheaper than that? http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-113860-Select-Printer-Filament/dp/B018GZBC3Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463585216&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=wanhao+i3
It's the Monoprice variant, but basically the same printer as the Wanhao i3
This is me in the video! I got a Monoprice Maker Select v2. It's $259 on Amazon right now.
A spool of filament is about $25 but lasts quite a while. I have used it to fix my toilet, a phone bracket and water cage for my bicycle, a replacement part for my friends telescope, miniatures for a few boardgames. It's almost endless what you can do with them. Most of the files online are free, too
Although yeah 3d printing isn't the cheapest hobby, it doesn't have to be too pricey either. Unless you were aware of it already, I wanted to let you know you can get a decent printer these days and a set of tools and filament, at least enough to get started comfortably, for under $400 total. And if you are fortunate enough to have more cash than that, you can find your bang-for-buck scales pretty linearly above and beyond, there are many great printers out there for people of all income levels.
Back when I was in college, I paid ~$350 for just the printer kit I had to assemble, being able to buy a (mostly) assembled printer for just two-thirds the price that has over 8x the build volume and a heated bed is awesome.
It is a hobby that is accessible to almost anyone who can scrap together a one-time cash investment and has some spare desk space at home. It's very cheap to design and print small models, a single spool lasts quite awhile as long as you don't do anything too crazy. Although it's fair to say while it can be cheap to operate in dollars, it can be quite time expensive!
Not to mention if you're clever it can save you money in the long run if you use it to repair your stuff, although I wouldn't expect it to pay for itself right away unless you break things a lot :)
Printer - $200
Plastic - $23
Some software (browse around and torrent) and trial/error and you too can be printing whatever your freedom-loving heart desires. And thats just from banging around on Amazon. You can do better (read: cheaper) on one of the Chinese sites. Alibaba or Gearbest or whogivesafuck.com you can probably put in for less than $200 all told.
Great thing is the only thing you need to re-up is the cheap ass plastic. The printer should last you longer than your imagination.
Just save $20 a paycheck and by Christmas you'll have yourself a nice gift.
It's a super easy mod to do. The parts are like $8 on Amazon and you print the mount. This is the first thing I did on my Maker Select.
Mod link: https://letsprint3d.net/2017/01/29/guide-installing-a-mosfet-board-maker-select-v2/
Link to the thing: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2173745
If you haven't printed one yet you must! It's the best 3D model to use as your first print. Maybe the best 3D model ever! I know this because I'm the world's foremost expert on the Low-Poly Rose Twist Vase (<serious voice> <important-looking nod>) :D
BTW: I have no affiliation with that filament manufacturer. I do love that stuff though (gone through five spools of it now I think)! The silver is pretty good too.
ZIRO 3d Marble Filament https://www.amazon.com/ZIRO-Printer-Filament-1-75mm-Marble/dp/B01IIAC2MW/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=marble+filament&amp;qid=1563198549&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3
It’s ZIRO “Marble Color” PLA from Amazon! ($21.00)
Awesome Filament. Hides Layer Lines Incredibly Well.
It’s as smooth as normal PLA, just looks textured from the speckles.
This was printed at .2mm on my Ender 3. One of my Favorite Materials And Prints to date!
In the comments from the link he said he used this gold filament:
Yeah, I was actually surprised at how good the color turned out. Here’s what I used:
Silk Gold 3D Printer PLA Filament 1.75 mm 1 KG (2.2 LBS) Spool 3D Printing Material CC3D Shine Silky Shiny PLA Metal Gold Like Metallic PLA Filament
The Creality Ender 3 on Amazon.
It was recommended by at least 3 of the crafter DMs I've seen on YT.
Here is a list of things that people will always need, I understand you can't stock everything as overhead is an issue with retail, and storage as well, but most of these are small enough that they can occupy the shelf space you currently have. As for the larger things, like the 2020 extrusions, you could sell them in common lengths of 500mm and 1000mm and let the customer cut them down to the size they need, or just don't carry these at all. It's not a niche item, but for a retail store like you it would be hard to store and maintain, but man, would it be nice to be able to get those locally if i needed a piece for a project instead of having to wait on mail order.
this is just a basic list, others have listed other things as well, Steppers, Belts, Pulleys, Bearings etc. If you want 3d printing as a reason for other people to go to your store, these items will satisfy the need. Just keep prices fair, I have no issue paying a bit more compared to amazon to get it today.
I got one of these:
Super thin edge gets under the edge of prints without damaging the print or the buildtak.
I just bought two spools and camelcamelcamel says that it's currently at its all time low price.
The biggest misconception is that you pay for quality after reliability. It's the other way around: Any printer can print well, but not every printer can print reliably well.
There is no consumer printer with a guarantee of reliability. Hell, there are few commercial printers that are 99.9% reliable.
Reliability will ultimately depend on how much you learn about 3d printing, and how much (extra) you're willing to spend fixing problems that may come up. The best you can do is start with something easily modifiable at your budget.
Folgertech i3 aluminum | 270 USD (bring your own bed)
Monoprice Maker Select | 350 USD
MakerFarm Pegasus 8" | 375 USD
haha! I actually bought it on amazon!
It was definitely an expensive investment, but worth it. It makes prototyping things extremely efficient.
They can get pretty expensive, think Makerbots and stuff. But there are less expensive ones that do a great job too. /r/3Dprinting has a lot of great advice. There are some helpful forums elsewhere too.
This makes way more sense now... I couldn't believe you had seen that shark for $1,500.
Hi people, longtime lurker first-time commenter!
(Incoming wall of text. Just trying to be thorough!)
I'm looking to buy a new dual extrusion 3D printer; specifically one that can support soluble support materials such as HIPS or PVA. High layer resolutions are preferred (~<0.1mm) but are not absolutely necessary.
I've currently looked into several newer printers but can't figure out which one is likely the most reliable:
These are pretty much all the printers I have found. Devices that merge two filaments into a single extruder are unpreferred as they are pretty iffy when printing with two different types of materials and need to create purge blocks really increases print time. Right now I'm learning towards the BIBO but would like to hear more about the device.
If anyone has any other recommendations or additional experience with dual extruder 3D printers let me know!
(P.S. I accidentally turned this comment into a wall of text as there was only so much information I could find on reliable, (relatively) affordable dual extrusion 3D printing. Maybe some would be willing to collaborate to make a post covering more info so others don't have to look so far!)
I'm noticing a trend involving multi-tailed foxes...
Very cool, but I have a question. Do you think the filament would still be sensitive enough to heat if it was coated in epoxy such as this stuff to give it a nicer, more "sculpture"-like finish? It'd be fun to have something like this, but I typically do everything I can to obscure print lines on display pieces. Can't prime or paint this though, obviously.
I will give you my background before my opinions. As everyone has different goals, opinions, and experiences.
I got my printer near the end March of this year. I have something like 2500m of filament run though it, and no idea how much print time.
When I received my printer, my test prints failed and I was pissed. But this community helped improve my Cura settings and started producing usable parts. I then went nuts and printed out a BUNCH of mods. This is by far my most favorite thing. There's always something I can print to improve the quality of the prints.
THe down side is I went too far and got to a point where I couldn't produce anything of quality. So, 2 weeks of tweeking and researching later I'm printing in PETG with beautiful quality and very minimal visible layers.
My most recent project in PETG:
So, now to answer your question...
> How do you like your Maker Select?
I love it. It allowed me to buy a cheaper printer (One of the cheapest at the time @ $350) that produced amazing results. It also has upgrades you can purchase or print to improve the quality, so investing smaller amounts over time to make it better and better. I highly recommend it to anyone who is starting because it does require tweaking which forces you to learn and understand how exactly 3d printers work. A major plus was that this community has a lot of Maker Select users for support, which was a MAJOR plus for me.
As of today, I've purchased the following upgrades:
So, in the last ~3 months I've spent an additional $264... Oh god, don't tell my wife! All are totally not necessary, mind you. The only thing I'd 100% recommend you do are print out the following to mods:
DiiiCooler along with buying the 50mm blower fan. There are cheaper options out there, I just wanted it faster so I bought it through Amazon to get free 2 day shipping.
z-Brace - This is key, and will run you maybe $15 worst case scenario to get enough M4 screws and the threaded rods.
Edit: Forgot a couple more things I bought.
That's another $59, so $323... I have a problem. again, 95% of this is NOT NECESSARY. I'm just addicted to modding.
Depends on your money... as a fellow gamer, I got started with this relatively cheap printer available from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Maker-Select-3D-Printer/dp/B018GZBC3Y/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?s=industrial&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1505666716&amp;sr=1-2-spons&amp;keywords=monoprice+3d+printer&amp;psc=1
It's a Monoprice Maker V2 - which is a renamed Wanhao Duplicator i3 0- which is a Chinese made version of a Prusa I3 (open source printer). With that printer there I was able to print several armies worth of WW2 tanks for Flames of War. The quality is quite nice. Feel free to PM me if you want more info.
Metal Squin Mesh Fabric, very complicated manufacturing process
There are several people on this sub 3D printing on to fabric. Something similar to this might be possible, 1 mm by 1 mm by 0.5mm cubes separated by 0.2mm, using gold 3D printing filament on the underlying cloth.
Sure, no problem. I'll give you a bit more info as it may be relevant :)
That said, the biggest contributing factor to getting my prints to stick was the leveling. Once I nailed the leveling, I haven't had a failed print due to poor adhesion. Failures due to other things, sure. But not because of the glass :)
highly recommend purchasing a 3d printer if you are a hobbyist and have the room. It's another hobby within itself, but it opens so many doors! I make custom enclosures for all my electronics, I can repair broken plastic parts without having to go to the manufacturer, and you can even design your own consumable goods, like this hard drive bracket I made. I've printed a few quad bodies as well.
Printers have come down a ton in price, many people swear by the Ender 3, which is 230 dollars on amazon. I also see a lot of people mention the Creality CR10 and the Prusa for pricier alternatives
Buy an new extruder, the plastic one will start to wear out after your first roll of PLA. Get one of the all metal ones like this
I have 22 spools of filament lying about and 4 more arriving today. Of those I think 6 of them are Solutech. While I have some problems with the color in a couple of cases, I've never had any issues with getting them to print. Only filament I have that prints better is the Amolen stuff, but it's expensive.
Your under extrusion issue is one that I've been fighting for two months now. I would get a couple of good prints, then would load a different filament and get the under extruded layers that look just like the ones you're getting. Finally got to the bottom of the problem a couple of days ago.
Try this as an experiment. Pick out a model with a large flat surface like this and print it with a raft. If you're having the issue I was then you'll see diagonal bands of under extrusion, with the bands getting wider as you print larger parts.
I discovered that there was a lot of play in the spring that applies tension to the extruder pinion and when I changed filaments it would change position. No amount of adjustment to the screw that holds it would give me consistent results. I installed this improved all metal version of the extruder from Creality and those went away entirely. Print quality now is at least as good, and maybe better, than I'm getting off of my Tornado and that's saying a lot.
Project for the holiday weekend is to install the BLTouch, and I'll probably swap the extruder out again for the same Titan clone that my Tornado has. If that didn't require a firmware change I probably would have installed it instead of the Creality one. I like the Titan design a lot better.
Good luck and have a wonderful holiday!
Yeah dude, it was the Ender 3. He's an ex GM engineer, so way smarter than me to be explaining its features but he said it was the printer some of his colleagues bought for home use. Only took him two hours and three beers to put together. I watched it print a dog for 53 minutes. Totally fucking awesome.
They're surprisingly affordable; the Ender 3 is a great printer, for only $250. So long as you don't mind assembling it yourself.
Here's the rant
The fix, use Cura's "Pause at Height" plug-in, but after changing the filament home the printer before hitting resume.
No where does it say to do this, and in none of the tutorial videos does it say to do this. So simple, but no where is this ever mentioned or shown.
sharpen the tip.
OSOYOO 3D Printer Kit with RAMPS 1.4 Controller + Mega 2560 board + 5pcs A4988 Stepper Motor Driver with Heatsink + LCD 12864 Graphic Smart Display Controller with Adapter For Arduino RepRap https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0111ZSS2O?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
> maker select
Would you recommend this as a good first 3d printer?
Whatever comes stock on the Maker Select v2.
I have the Micro Swiss on my Maker Select and I love it.
This little 3D printer is pretty decent and 30% off for the next 5 hours:
(Be forewarned - you need to love tinkering if you want to be happy with a 3D printer. So far it's been fun though...)
Mine was $199 with prime shipping. The printer was cheaper than the rangefinder.
Marble PLA is just light gray PLA that has tiny bits of black PLA added to make it look like marble. I've used this one in the past with good results:
Apparently Hatchbox Wood Fill has gone up in price...that was going to be my recommendation.
Glow in the Dark PLA
Ziro3d marble PLA.. not sure if it's abrasive on a regular brass nozzle, I used a hardened steel just in case https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01IIAC2MW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1522342000&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=ziro+3d+1.75+filament&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51J8fcvBLhL&amp;ref=plSrch
Looks like it's painted. If you zoom in you can see the engine intakes and the missile bay on the back are white. There is gold filament that looks pretty nice though.
Silk Gold 3D Printer PLA Filament... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XRPYXP2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share this stuff is pretty good but make sure you use it right or you will end up like me...
A few weeks ago, u/mrdead113 posted an amazing vase design, printed in a silk gold PLA: https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/ane711/monochromatic_vase_in_gold_silk/
It looked so good that I bought some silk gold PLA too (a different brand: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B06XRPYXP2/) and printed the same vase design at 440mm tall on my MakerBot Z18.
(Note: I don't recommend MakerBot devices, it's just the biggest printer I have)
I’ve been using this one all year
Some folks use binder clips to keep their on, I prefer silicon thermal pads (see the frequently bought together section)
You’ll also want hairspray or glue sticks. I use a purpose-made product called magigoo that helps with adhesion at the start of the print, then pops right off once the build plate cools
I got something similar and it was because the spring in the extruder clamp wasn't giving enough compression. I mostly solved it by stretching out the spring a bit.
I eventually upgraded to an aluminum extruder and the problem went away for good.
The C2 is a decent printer.
The MP select mini has a similar build envelope for significantly less money, and is also a decent printer. I recommend buying it instead.
It also has a heated build plate so you can use more materials.
Manufacturer's website link
A few general pointers: Micron layer heights from printer manufacturers are generally just hype. used for marketing. It's a technically true stat that is generally meaningless to the actual performance of the printer. Both the Robo C2 and the MP Select mini print by squeezing plastic out of a nozzle. On both the nozzle is 0.4mm.
In most cases there are (rapidly) diminishing returns to printing below 1/4 of the nozzle size. In this case that is 100 microns. Both machines are mechanically capable of printing below 100 microns. (The lowest layer height the MP Select mini is mechanically capable of is 43.75 microns.) However, every time you cut your layer height in half you double your print time, so a 25 micron model will take twice as long as a 50 micron model, which will take twice as long as a 100 micron model which will take twice as long as a 200 micron model which is what I print at most of the time because are you kidding? I don't have time for that!
Seriously, get the MP mini. Get permission to spend $800 from the wife. Tell your wife it was $400. Keep the $180 - $200, spend the other $400 on something nice for your wife. Everyone wins.
this is what im working with I like it alot so far for what i paid
Looking at the price of some of the printers recommended here you aren't far off the price of the Monoprice Maker Select V2 right now. It is on sale for $280 from Monoprice (Use code MAKER15 at checkout for the discount) or Amazon right now. Free shipping from Monoprice. (not sure what country you are in so maybe that will make a difference for you on shipping)
If you can stretch your budget about $40-50 you will get a highly recommended printer (here and other sites) that is very easy to setup, has a large community/support for tweaking/upgrading later, and takes 15-20 minutes to setup out of the box (its pre-assembled, literally 6 screws to build it). Also it prints fantastic out of the box, and with a few minor upgrades it rivals printers far above its price range.
I recently got a MP Select v1 with an upgraded hot end and PEI laid on the bed for 230 shipped on eBay. It has been working great, so far. I honestly wouldn't recommend buying a used printer for your first one though (exactly what I did) as it is a gamble and mine field right now with used printers, (I got lucky thankfully and was covered by eBay if anything was wrong).
Also, depending on your requirements of build volume, I would highly recommend looking at the MP Select Mini Amazon. It has a 4x4x4" build area, comes completely pre-assembled and leveled (most of the time leveled) out of the box. Literally unpack, and print. It is highly recommended here and other places for an entry level/low budget printer. Very high quality prints from it, the only downside is the smaller build area, but that depends on each person/use case. It is portable, so trade offs I suppose.
TL;DR: The Maker Select V2 is on sale right now for about $40 more than the prices of most printers linked here, and it is an outstanding printer out of the box, and highly recommended. If you can stretch your budget a little, I would buy that. If you need to save and don't need a large build volume I recommend the MP Select Mini. Don't get caught up on one specific sale/website, keep an eye on other options as there are sales other places.
TL;DR of TL;DR:
Source: Have been in the same too expensive boat for 3 years. Finally purchased a MP Select for my first printer last week and out of the box got fantastic prints with 0 knowledge/experience.
Maker Select V2 is a good beginner printer under 350 with minimal setup, and the important parts are metal. Stick away from anything with an acrylic frame.
An alternative and cheaper unit would be the Maker Select Mini which has a smaller print bed but is around a hundred dollars less.
Both of these choices are pretty good and if you choose between the 2 I would opt for the Maker Select V2 because of the larger print bed.
Common filaments like PLA, PETG, and ABS are anywhere from 15-40$ depending on the quality you buy and more exotic filaments can be $50+ dollars. Maintenance cost for the most part is pretty minimal unless you break something like the hotend.
3d models are loaded into something called a slicer which converts the model into layers so if you can get it into the slicer and it slices you can use any model.
Keeps it all at ~12.5V. I managed to get one screw into it to hold it where the old one used to go.
Also get the mosfet to run the bed power completely independently of the controller board for another $10:
Use some ~14ga lamp cord to tie it in. :)
I used this one, a few reviews mentioned having trouble with it jamming and such. I printed it hotter than normal (220c) which is maybe why I didn't have any problems.
This is a model I found and printed for a friend with this new gold filament that I purchased it came out really well aside from the fact that I printed at .2 layers and not .1 or lower layers like I meant to.
Ganesh 3D scan found on #Thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2545113
Here is the filament I forgot to share it
3D Printer Filament PLA 1.75 mm Silk Gold 1 KG ( 2.2 LBS ) Spool 3D PLA Printing Material https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XRPYXP2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_gsVIAbA6ZHJ43
Thingiverse Source: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3815748
Printed on an Ender 3 using Silk Gold PLA and placed on a box above an oil diffuser.
Thanks for making a new thread. You mentioned pre-assembled and quality/reliability over cost, but do you have a general price in mind?
The most popular option is to just go with one of the cheap aluminum extruders. These are a considerable improvement over the stock plastic version. There isn't really much assembly involved, you will need to bolt on the extruder plate/lever and put the spring in, but it's about the most simple upgrade there is.
On the more premium end, depending on which version you buy, a genuine Bondtech comes pre-assembled. It's about $70 more expensive and the benefits are negligible, but that's an alternative.
The two main choices for Creality machines are the V6 or Micro Swiss (or a clone), both of which do have some assembly involved.
E3D sells their V6 as a bunch of parts that you assemble yourself, but Filastruder offers it as a pre-assembled version. I believe most V6 clones come loosely pre-assembled as well. Keep in mind however that V6 isn't a direct install, you will need some kind of printed bracket / fan duct like the PetsFang to mount it.
The Micro Swiss on the other hand is a drop-in installation on Creality machines. You do have minimal assembly putting a few parts together, but it bolts up to the stock machine without any changes. I wrote a guide that covers how to do it for the Ender-3, but the Ender-5 uses the same hotend carriage design, meaning the steps are the same.
I would personally go with the cheap aluminum extruder and a Micro Swiss hotend. This would be a cost efficient, yet effective set of upgrades for the machine. There is minimal assembly involved, but there isn't much on the market that is 100% ready to go.
Yep, once you go blue...
Capricorn Bowden PTFE Tubing XS Series 1 Meter for 1.75mm Filament (Genuine Capricorn Premium Tubing) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079P92HN9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RyguDbVRZAVKJ
You think 3D printers and mills are cheap? They're cheaper than they were, but a 3D printer will set you back by $240 and won't be good for anything besides prototyping, and often not even that because they aren't able to operate on a small enough scale. (The cheaper you buy, the less precise you can print)
Prices don't just continuously fall. Things can get cheaper to produce with new techniques or cheaper labour, but that can't go on forever.
I’ve been printing with an Ender 3 (Comgrow Creality Ender 3 3D Printer Aluminum DIY with Resume Print 220x220x250mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BR3F9N6 ) for the better part of the year and it’s been mostly great!
The base price there is pretty cheap comparatively, and 1kg of filament (printing material) is about $20. That will last you quite a long time and print dozens and dozens of miniatures.
The largest downsides are probably the learning curve. It definitely takes some time to learn settings. But there are lots of resources out there.
The other thing is that Ender 3 is FDM which essentially means the resolution isn’t quite as high. This is just fine for printing terrain but you get a “layering effect” making it difficult to get high quality detail on some minis. That being said I’ve had great success printing minis for npcs and monsters.
The other option is resin printing which generally produces higher resolution and detail but can be messier and resin is pretty toxic so requires more safety precautions.
Ultimately I’ve been happy with my 3D printer and it’s really enhanced my gaming experience
Ender 3 Pro on Amazon for $259.97
Comgrow Creality Ender 3 Pro 3D Printer with Removable Build Surface Plate and UL Certified Power Supply 220x220x250mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GYRQVYV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GB21Db61MBXR2
Good luck and thank you!
I highly advise going with the MAX v3 at that price-point. That Hatchbox delta others are recommending is quite a step down in quality and features for the price. Considering it's just a relabeled Chinese Kossel kit, the value just isn't there.
The MAX v3 is a much higher quality printer with more features and better construction, but, you have to build it yourself. IF you can swing the build, you're going to be a lot more happy with the v3 over the Alpha.
However, if you absolutely need/want an assembled printer at that price, look into the Flashforge Creator Pro. It's a solid printer that will give you great quality and provides dual extrusion capability, although dual extrusion can be difficult to get right with that design. Many people have fantastic success with it though.
I'd highly suggest just going with the MAX v3 kit though. The hardest part is soldering some large gauge wires to a flat contact on the heated bed, which you can find video instructions for in the SeeMeCNC assembly guide. If you just don't think you can solder anything, look into that Creator Pro.
I would recommend saving yourself the effort and using something like [XTC-3D](https://www.amazon.com/Smooth-XTC-3D-Performance-Print-Coating/dp/B00PFXK4JY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8
) for smoothing out layer lines instead of sanding. PLA and PETG are painful to sand, and ABS is painful to print.
I've been experimenting with different things.
Plastruct Plastic Weld makes a pretty solid bond. The only time I've had trouble with it is lately while trying to bond sections of a sword blade that are 0.3" thick and 3" wide. The sections with the most stress on them can snap if I let it flex enough.
I used Gorilla Glue to glue together pieces that left gaps. It expands and fills, so that was handy. The bond seemed strong, so I'm going to try that on the blade pieces next.
I've also used Loctite gel control super glue and it worked fairly well, but I don't believe the bond is as strong as Plastic Weld.
As for finishing prints, my current method is to use XTC 3D to smooth the print. After that, I prime, sand, and paint using spray paints. I will probably get an airbrush soon to try for nicer looking paint jobs.
Not just from prusa, pick and choose. URLs for examples.
Digital caliper, 12" https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EJUBBU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Extra brass nozzles.
Hardened steel nozzle, 0.4mm to 0.6mm for printing abrasive exotics (wood, glow in the dark, carbon fiber etc)
Print removal tool https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VB1U886/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Locktite blue bolt-fixer (Walmart, Home Depo, Lowes etc) to stop bed sensor from moving.
High temp anti-seize for nozzle threads https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0053ZS1Z8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Raspberry Pi 3, 5v Pi 2A Power wart, Micro SD card, & Webcam for octoprint monitoring.
Relay board for Pi/octoprint to power up & down printer remotely. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0057OC5O8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s02?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
1lb of silica gel to keep filament dry.
Fire extinguisher rated for electrical fires.
Dedicated smoke alarm.
Hatchbox wood PLA 1.75mm
Was curious if anyone can help me out with this.
It’s an Ender 3 Pro using the Hatchbox wood filament.
Anything small prints fine. Usually good for 2-3 hours no issues.
Anything 4+ hours I come back to a jammed extruded several inches above the print with nothing comes out.
Filament: HATCHBOX 3D Printer Filament,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01092XXD4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I recently printed one in this wood filament, which is stainable, and it looked pretty good plain, but fantastic once I stained it. If you have any layer lines, they tend to look like wood grain once you stain it.
That said, it seems to have left bits behind in the nozzle, so the white I switched to afterwards kept having little brown bits for a while.
I've really been considering this "marble" PLA, though, because I want to print up the same character as a double size figure and give him a kind of "statue" look.
Grey worked well, as u/Snownova said. Black, not so much. Any place where a support was hesitant to come off gets really visible when it's unpainted, and the characters are somehow shiny in a bad way.
I love the RAMPS 1.4 on my Makerfarm i3v, basically the same as the controller that comes with your printer, just slightly less contained. This one comes with the big screen and SD card reader, and it only costs 33 bucks. (Never heard of the brand though) Or you can get the full kit with brand name parts from Makerfarm for $130.
I'd recommend the RAMPS 1.4 board as there is already a guide to installing it on the Mini and a BLTouch mechanical probe sensor that is also on Amazon.
Also note you need someway to mount your probe the hot end so since no one has done it yet with Mini (publicly anyways), you'd probably have to design your own mount and print it.
Hey, that's my thread! It's nice to see that it inspired you. I use a Monoprice Maker Select, and they are about $60 cheaper than when I bought mine a couple months ago, so it's probably a good time to grab one if you're serious about it.
3D printers work well when you keep them working. They need plenty of maintenance and calibration to get nice prints. Be prepared to spend a bit more cash on parts and upgrades, and read through a lot of forums. If you're already DIY prone and have some patience, 3D printing is fun and pretty much the coolest thing ever.
To follow up on my printed Arrow, I didn't get to maiden it until Flite Fest, and even then I almost decided not to because there was a strong tailwind at the time. I finally got brave and gave it a try, but it failed. I don't think I had the elevons set up right. It took a hard dive and the pod got crunched and one of the stabs broke off.
However! I did meet a guy at Flite Fest using the same pod on his Arrow, and it flew great, so the concept is proven! If anyone saw an Arrow with two kiwi birds painted on it, that was him. I'm assuming he was a New Zealander, by the accent and the paint job. It would be pretty cool if he showed up here to give his input...
Aftermath: Mostly Intact
Licensing. I've got two licensed products launching in the next 6 months. In both cases the samples I sent to licensing partners were prototyped on a $300 3d printer sitting on my desk.
The early R&D process is identical to what you'd do for a client, but entirely independent and under your control. Patent searching, ideation, iterating on proofs of concept, etc.
I personally have (and love) a monoprice maker select v2
that you can get here on amazon. It's pretty great for making things like minis, terrain, and so on. You can dial the resolution up pretty high and get some pretty fantastic results.
I have been printing for about 9 months now and wanted to know if anyone has any recommendations for a budget dual extrusion printer.
I currently have a MP Maker Select 2.1 and I am looking to upgrade to a dual extrusion printer. Been looking around and found 2 that are pretty much the same,
Are there any others that may be with a $500 - $800 range.
Any input or suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Weird post to make an image, but go ahead and grab the first one.
Hi, Im new to owning a 3D printer but have done several different prints at my college.
I have been doing a lot of researching my self on 3d printing technologies. One of the things Ive noted is dual extrusion vs single extrusion. Also Ive heard a glass bed is very important?
Ive read that dual extrusion can be good for certain applications like printing a structure with two materials, one which is dissolvable . Ive also read that dual extruders can have a tendency to cause a print to fail as the material can cool down in the extruder not being used. This then can cause issues when that printer extruder is used again within the same print as the material on the end does not heat up again properly?
Ive looked at several good bang for the buck printers(on paper)
Please give me as much info as possible. I really don't have any experience with using different printers at all, and am really open to some good internet education. So please comment away :)
Epoxy and lots of sanding.
I see them so often, that I wonder if it is inevitable with the process. Another approach would be to just smooth them out and paint it. This is a good material for smoothing a print: http://www.amazon.com/XTC-3D-High-Performance-Print-Coating/dp/B00PFXK4JY
Most people are telling you it can't be done, but the truth is there are food grade filaments and techniques for printing food safe parts. I don't recommend you do this, but at the same time I'm happy to provide the following information.
Slightly related, I've emailed Smooth-On to confirm their XTC-3D is not food grade.
My best results have been prints in clear resin, but "transparent" PLA can be enhanced as well.
I bought the following:
You mix it like epoxy, and lightly coat the outside. I use my hands (with gloves). It removes minor blemishes, and makes for a "smoother, shinier" part.
It is not for everyone; sometimes I prefer the "frosted" look on a part.
PRO TIP: Buy a box of thumb tacks. Put a bunch of them point up so your part can dry without sticking to anything.
Hey, I highly recommend this spatula
the one that came with my 3d printer was dollar store garbage and would have gouged my buildtak if I hadn't had the lucky foresight to buy this one first.
This one is so thin that it can easily get under parts, just don't "pry" upwards or it'll bend it! (I bent mine but it still works like a champ)
> Thanks in advance for answering my questions.
I purchased it last August. (781 hours logged) It's almost litterly been printing out of the box since day one. The only issue I had out of the box is that the one screw on the build plate got bent as a result of the 2 free spools bouncing into it. I ordered a box of them from McMaster and had it fixed by the end of the week. I contacted Lisa on their google chat form and from what I understand, they now come with the screw as a result of my support ticket. This was an annoyance yes, but I've had more issues with my reprap and that costed me more than this pritner when I bought it. (I originally had a Makergear Prusa)
Most: I love the fact that it prints 100% of the times I try to print something. I rarely, and I mean RARELY have a failed print. I love that I can hit print before I go to bed and wake up to a completed part in the morning.
Least: This is small, and it took a while but I have since out grown the build platform (9x6x6 inches). I recently ordred an 8x12 plate from McMaster and that arrives on monday and we'll see how that works. (PSA this requires removing one of the extruders - if you want more info on this let me know)
Yes, no issues. Just close up the printer with the included panels.
No, I use a glass build plate and a thin coat of purple glue stick. I then spritz water on the plate before each print. I never have a sticking issue and I never have warpage. I personally prefer PLA though since Hatchbox has come to light and makes GREAT PLA
Like I said just above, I use a glass build plate, so I haven't had any warpage issues with the bp. Leveling the bed is a bit of a challenge but I'm fussy about it and I want it within 0.0005 or less so it takes me a while. The reason I'm fussy is because I've only had to level the bed 2 or 3 times since owning it.
The first was when I got it
The second was when I added the glass build plate
The third was when I removed one extruder and added an aluminum carriage.
That's it. It never lost it's level and it's gone through 3 moves (like I moved apartment to apartment)
The only experience I had was with that screw initially. I contacted Lisa on their Google Chat forum and she handled it mostly. Sadly, it wasn't as 'perfect' as I wanted since their solution was to send the printer back instead of sending me a new screw. Never the less, they did try to help on the matter and told me how I could go about getting money for the screw if I so desired. In the long run, it's a screw and I just ordered them from McMaster. I have zero regrets from it and I think I know my printer a bit beter because of it.
single extruder carriage (PSA: their single extruder block is not FF compatible.
My Thingiverse for example prints
Some things I would buy shortly after getting the printer:
Spare Extruder fan : I tend to slip and put a screw drive in the path of this, shattering the blades. If you're a clutz like me, get it. I've needed 4 so far. ::hangs head in shame::
Glass Build Plate : Best purchase I've made for my FF. Works great, easy to install and use. Also get thermal sheets and purple elmers glue, and print the spacer found on my Thingiverse page under "Flashforge Upgrades". Also get a spatula, and dikes
Simplify3D : A lot people tend to spend $X,XXX on a printer and then try to use free software with it and complain when it doesn't print right. To me that's like buying a car without tires. A Corvette ain't shit without a decent set of tires. It's kind of pricy compared to free, I know, but at real CAM programs (which is what this basically is) cost $8,000 or more. It truely is a great printer program and I wish I had purchased it much MUCH sooner than I had.
Last and most importantly, get the an active cooling fan. I originally printed this, and purchased a 12v power supply and added some fans to it. I have since moved on to the offical one from FF. It's not as good but I haven't really ran into an issue. If I had to print from my right extruder, it would be an issue though. What I liked about it, is that it's a plug and play added on. No "modifications" needed to added.
TL;DR / Closing thoughts: I would buy this printer again in a heartbeat. ESPECIALLY if they came out with one similar to the Replicator 2 with the 11.9" build plate. Instead it looks like they went a different way judging by CES but oh well, there's always next year. Further more, I think this is a great entry level printer for someone looking to have a printer help with projects and not be one of them. That doesn't mean you can't mod it or upgrade or whatever, it just means you don't have to if you don't want to.
Hope this helps and answers any questions you might have. Feel free to ask more though!
I use [these] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XWFM1HJ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_OYE.AbP0JQ8X9) brushes for cleaning filament off of the extruder because you will inevitably have prints that leave filament all over the hotend. [These] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00VB1U886/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1526590824&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=3d+print+removal+tool&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31vIt7tpDfL&amp;ref=plSrch) are really cheap and good for removing prints from the bed. One of them should last you several months. You’ll also eventually need to clear out a clogged nozzle so some [nozzle cleaners] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B072JJ7H5P/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1526590910&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=3d+printer+nozzle+cleaner) will come in handy.
Do you have anything that resembles this with a thin "blade". https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00VB1U886/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483243443&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=Printer+removal&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31vIt7tpDfL&amp;ref=plSrch
If you do you can try to slide the thin part under the part. If you don't have something like that you can remove the bed and put it in a freezer and it should just pop off or you could take off the tape with the print attached.
It's PLA with wood fibers that give it a wood like appearance. It's a bit messier to print with because it can gum up the hotend (in my experience) but it can look really nice.
Thanks! It’s Hatchbox Wood PLA. I would’ve preferred a darker color but this was the only one in stock and I’m not a patient man...
My own shoutouts:
Hatchbox Wood: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01092XXD4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This sands easier than any classic plastic filament, after which you'd swear someone whittled the wood themselves. After stain, it's my very favorite thing to use. It's abominably stringy if you use anything smaller than 0.15mm layers, but that really doesn't matter since you're gonna sand it anyway.
CCTree Marble: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CVJJB9Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This prints like butter, but I've been unable to stop it from stringing. It's easier to sand than other non-wood filaments I've tried though. I like the appearance, which seems to naturally hide subtle layer lines like the wood does.
Special mention to Prusament: the very least stringing I've seen among the few filaments I've tried, but I don't buy it because it's expensive in the USA and because the fumes make my eyes hurt while doing squeaky noises in the extruder. Weird.
It really depends on how comfortable you feel with electronics. Watch Youtube videos on the conversion and see if its something you are up for. If it were me, I'd do RAMPS (still with the mosfet mod) with Marlin firmware. Several people on this sub have done it and would mostly likely be nice enough to give you their Marlin firmware. If you go this route you'll have to set the current limit on the drivers, edit the configuration.h in Marlin, calibrate the e-steps, PID tune both hotend/bed and give the RAMPS board solder joints a carefully once over. Sometimes there are extra solder balls and shotty joints.
EDIT: you might also need to recrimp some connectors.
If you have Amazon available, this is by far the best price on the full setup (plus LCD and SD card slot)
I've bought about 5 of them, and these guys may actually have some quality control.
I ended up going with the Monoprice Maker Select V2 for ~$330USD. It has a 200x200x180 build volume, does PLA/ABS, and is everything I personally needed.
Personally I think you would be better off getting a Monoprice Maker Select V2, also known as a Wanhao Duplicator i3. It's currently selling for $300 on Amazon, and its frame is made of metal which I think would be sturdier than the acrylic of that printer. It's the same sort of printer style style (i3), but it's not a kit so all you have to do is screw a few pieces together, calibrate, and then get printing.
Here is a link.
Depends on the build area you want, but the monoprice maker select is a good printer to start with. It will print okay from the get go, but with a couple mods (look up z brace mod) you can get it printing very nicely.
The printer itself was about $700, and the filament cost is negligible. $1 of filament, maybe?
Though I could've just printed it on a $330 Monoprice Maker Select, now that I know it's available.
Oh, well, and I used the craft store paints and paint brushes, but I only used a little of that, so maybe $0.50 of paint.
First of all, thanks for the awesome post!
But I have 3 questions about what you wrote on the Monoprice Maker Select V2 and Plus models:
Are you talking about other Amazon sites besides the .com/US site?
Prices are without promotions. Monoprice are often on sale.
$200 Monoprice mini. Small 120mm^3, fast to out grow. Good secondary printer. Would be good if you plan to get a nicer, bigger one in the future.
$320-400 Monoprice Maker Select/Wanhao I3. Same machine, monoprice is a rebrand and has a cheaper base price. Larger then the mini at 200mm by 200mm by 180mm. Good machine to start out with. Does have some cheap parts but is easy to work on and there is a large community to help out.
$700-800 Prusa I3 MK2. Available in kit form or pre built. High quality machine with parts to match. Same size as the Maker Select. Prusa offers addition upgrades to keep the machine relivenent like the multi-material upgrade that changes the machine from having 1 extruder to 4. If you are able to, this may be the best machine to start with.
Edit: added links
We use FDA Compliant PLA for the cookie cutters. It takes a little more work than running to the store, buying a cutter, and washing them. You have to trim the excess plastic off, lightly sand/buff any stray bits, hand wash in warm water, and give them a test run before you can use them. If you're really finicky, you can coat it in polyurethane (but then you have to let it cure for a couple of weeks), though some forums suggest it's unnecessary since it doesn't come in contact with food as long as something like a drinking glass.
Still worth it, though! I was spending ~$7 each for 3D printed cutters from other sites. While I'll still order from them for their adorable designs, it's really nice that his hobby had cheapen mine a bit.
He's enjoying his 3D printer. He ordered this one. Reviews said there were some issues with it that could easily be fixed, but after attempting to fix them, he found the manufacturer had already fixed them. Something or other about needing a piece installed to fix a temperature issue.
Last night he printed the parts to make my son an enderdragon toy from Minecraft. Now my son wants an enderdragon cookie cutter to go with it.
You can see the Amazon Monoprice Maker Select V2 price history here. The price does fluctuate, but hasn't a lot since November of last year.
Camel Camel Camel is a handy website.
Some from Amazon:
MP Mini for $189 - https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Select-Printer-Heated-Filament/dp/B01FL49VZE
CoLiDo kit $225 - https://www.amazon.com/CoLiDo-DIY-Printer-Build-Size/dp/B01AT4ODYA
Taz 5 $550 off - https://www.amazon.com/LulzBot-TAZ-Desktop-Printer-Nozzle/dp/B01143UJK2
Taz 6 $250 off - https://www.amazon.com/LulzBot-TAZ-6-3D-Printer/dp/B01DLU3M3M
Robo3D R1 for $599 - https://www.amazon.com/ROBO-3D-10x9x8-Inch-Printer-A1-0002-000/dp/B0142PHFVU
Sindoh DP200 3DWOX for $1,001 - https://www.amazon.com/Sindohs-DP200-3DWOX-3D-Printer/dp/B017IZBFB2
XYZ: Way too much stuff to list all, but looks like everything is on sale.
Mini $269 - https://www.amazon.com/XYZprinting-Vinci-mini-3D-Printer/dp/B01IXVXV9Y
Minimaker $199 - https://www.amazon.com/XYZprinting-Vinci-miniMaker-3D-Printer/dp/B01EWGJAS0
Edit - Found some more:
Qidi printer $50 off
AIO Robotics Zeus $375 (?) off
upgraded carriage plate, should be one of the first things you do, the stock one is flimsy and prone to warping, making the print bed extremely hard to level reliably.
all metal hotend will enable you to print at much higher temp, and increase reliability of the print head. not strictly needed, but a great upgrade if you want to print abs, petg, or other higher temp filaments.
heater bed mosfet upgrade. again, not strictly needed, but also useful for high temp filaments like abs, as you can run the heated bed at higher temps. also solves (small possibility, i3 plus supposedly fixed issue) of stock mosfet burning out and catching fire.
print a cooling fan shroud, i use the ciiicooler, the diiicooler is great as well. preferably in abs. BIG quality improvement, the stock fan is useless.
these are some of the ones i use, and there's a lot of other things you can do, extruder gear, improved bearings, too many to count really, just a matter of how far you want to go for incremental gains. the carriage plate and the cooling fan shroud are the only strictly necessary ones though.
oh and i made my own version of this z-brace, don't have the files anymore unfortunately, but this one is fine:
that's also something you should do asap.
I would second the Microswiss. It will be my next nozzle after seeing all the recommendations both here on reddit and on the various other Wanhao/Maker boards. Find it here
I totally recommend the All-Metal extruder Hotend for the i3 as well, once I threw that on, my prints were beautiful.
Got into 3D Printing a few weeks ago (I blame /u/delta3dstudios) and picked up a Monoprice Select Mini v2 from Amazon. It has a few limitations but for a cheap 3D Printer it's an excellent beginner one. It prints right out of the box with just a bed adjustment and supports PLA and ABS filaments (I have a bunch from 3D Solutech in the blue boxes). I printed a new extruder and now can print TPU and other soft filaments. I think I've put about 30/35 hours of solid printing since I've picked it up. I've also setup OctoPrint, a camera for recording and some additional automation.
I don't know how many times I sat and watched the thing print chilling with my Solo II losing track of the time. I'm starting to outgrow it already, wanting to print bigger things. I'm currently building out my shed, will probably upgrade to a model that does multi-color/filament with a bigger bed afterwords. Already I've printed mounts for my telematics/dashcam system, a bunch of random parts and all kinds of neat little gadgets.
What a time to be alive. Now where's my damn flying car!?
Edit: Arizer Solo II w/Doc Brown in front of the 3D printer (if you missed them) and the Grasshopper is on the white laptop.
3d printer for $220
lathe for $130
It's not something that requires a second mortgage...
MP Select Mini is much better.
Amazon warehouse has the V1 for $180:
The Monoprice Select Mini is around $200, and a 1kg spool of PLA is $20-30 (that will print around 375 standard size chess pieces). It's a really great starting 3D printer, at a great price, for someone that is trying to learn what all the steps are and if they are comfortable with the effort that goes into the hobby. It's primary 'con' is that it has a smaller print area than many other printers, so the things you can print are limited to 120mm^3 (without further modifications).
Monoprice Select Mini 3D Printer with Heated Build Plate, Includes Micro SD Card and Sample PLA Filament - 115365 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FL49VZE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_VHFn3TI1ZXX8F
MP Select Mini v1 is on sale on Amazon.ca for $231 after 101$ off. Just bought one! Ends in 5h40m.
I didn't see any filament deals while I was browsing.
Been waffling between that or the Maker Select V2 but I was leaning toward the mini because of the price and less required additional cost mods. Saving up for an SLA but need to tide myself over.
Try the maker mini I love mine.
For those with Amazon Prime... $189 w/ prime shipping. Monoprice Select Mini 3D Printer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FL49VZE/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_cNioyb4GMC9MQ
I have the Monoprice Select Mini and is around $220 here in the US. I believe this is the 2nd generation of this printer too, with a color LCD. It's a very nice little printer. Only major problem is that it has a smaller bed than most printers out there so, for instance, I can't print a case for my iPhone 7 Plus or something too big for my Nintendo Switch. However, this little printer is nice because it came pre-assembled right out of the box and was extremely easy to get printing. Whereas, my Anet A8, which is a Prusa i3 clone, has a bigger bed but was extremely difficult for me, as a newbie, to get going. I actually never got that one going and making decent prints.
Whereas you can see that I get pretty decent prints out of this little machine. Took me around 12 hours in total to print both parts of this on this printer.
You can get one yourself for a couple hundred bucks if you're interested. Mono select mini is a good cheap one. Free slicing programs too like cura and big libraries of free files on places like thingiverse and all you need is a few YouTube videos to figure out how to print. It's a lot of fun and quite useful too.
Basically, the printer currently pulls power from the PSU, runs it through the main control board, and out to the heated bed. The thing is, that's a lot of power to pull and push through such tiny connectors. The Mosfet is like a little light switch. The control board tells it to turn on, and it just lets electricity flow from the PSU to the heated bed, no issues.
Here is a good one. Just take the wires from the board, and put them where this one says "Hot Bed." Then, connect wires from the PSU (screw terminals) to the other 2 screws on the Mosfet. Finally, connect the 2 wires on the Mosfet to where you pulled out the wires from the control board.
I used this one. Good for 15A.
Look, I am talking completely out of my ass here as I don't have any experience with your printer. I do have an A8 though and I don't trust it as far as I can throw it. That being said, the GT2560 looks orders of magnitude better than the board on the A8 and so is probably capable of driving the 12A or so for the heat bed.
Still, if you have one of these MOSFETs lying around it might be worth the piece of mind to take the load of the main board.
Again, I have no experience with your printer so I am probably 110% wrong.
The e3d V6 lite needed this carriage mount (and this is the direct-drive version, not the bowden setup) to be printed in ABS (and ONLY ABS, PLA will warp and eventually bust. Plus, ABS repairs with acetone really well and easily, so I've busted the one I printed a while back a couple times and just re-welded it together). This is the power supply I got, and I also got two of these MOSFETs. More info on the wiring here, I'd also recommend their advice in replacing the wiring to the bed and the mainboard with higher-gauge wires to prevent issues.
I also had to adjust my printer firmware to have the new center-point for the hotend set to actual center, for that I had to flash SkyNet3D firmware, a Marlin-based firmware made specifically for the board the A8 came with. If you're replacing the board with a RAMPS board, more than likely you'll be setting it up for all that anyways.
thank you for this post. i am not OP but just got a Maker Select, grabbed the board from amazon and the print from thingiverse and will upgrade my printer ASAP!
I'm working on this mod: https://gigdigit.com/extended-heat-bed-kits-120-x-250mm-print-area-3mm-thick-select-mini-v1-v2/
The double-sized hotbed takes more power than the stock power supply can put out (especially the newer 7 amp models, which I have)
So I decided to use one of the MOSFET drivers, through the existing power jack, to which I'll connect a beefier power supply. I chose this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HEQVQAK
The top two terminals tap into power as shown here: https://imgur.com/NYOGok9
The bottom two run through the braided cable (joined by the thermistor wires and run to the new platform. The small connector goes to the original board's hotbed connection.
If anyone else has done this mod, or something similar, I have a few questions.
I'll probably have more questions as I go. :-)
I've been wanting to try this 'marble' filament for a while,
Looks pretty cool.
It's just PLA but that doesn't make it less exciting.
Not too expensive either.
ZIRO 3D Printer Filament PLA 1.75mm... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IIAC2MW?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
At first I didn't really like it. But it has grown on me.
This is using the Ziro marble filament.
It took about 10 hours.
Model of the original at the Minneapolis Art Institute
Some random brand on Amazon.
Try this, I just got some and it's working well.
I just saw some people print with CC3D Silk Gold that looked freakin amazing.
Best I’ve used so far is Amazon Basics Wood, but the CC3D Silk Metal series is on my to-do list.
This is the stuff I used.
Definitely one of my favorites!
3D Printer Filament PLA 1.75 mm Silk Gold 1 KG (2.2 LBS) Spool 3D PLA Printing Material Silky Shiny PLA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XRPYXP2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_tL62BbK8MP47B
Amazon. Here is the links:
GO-3D PRINT 130mm x 160mm Borosilicate Glass Plate Bed Flat Polished Edge w/Corners Cut for Monoprice MP Select Mini 3D Print https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075XJ5ZP1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_-aUxDb3EP28M4
ZUPAYIPA 400mm x 210mm x 0.5mm Silicone Thermal Pad for CPU GPU Heatsink https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9HGKR1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_vbUxDb1VVQ706
Paying someone to do the full set will definitely run you more than the cost of this printer. It's the printer I have. It's a bit finnicky, but the price is right, and it prints well enough for me! I'd also highly recommend getting a glass bed for it. It's stupid easy to install the glass bed (you just lower the normal bed and clip the glass to it with binder clips), and it makes the prints come loose soooo much easier. You can also have a hardware store cut the glass for you and it will be a bit cheaper than that Amazon link.
I will say, though: I only recommend buying a 3D printer if you're willing to devote some time to it. It's not like an InkJet where you plug it in and it just works. It takes calibration, and learning which settings work best. You'll have to do some research to get the best quality for your prints.
I have a glass bed, too. What I do is, once the print's finished and cooled down to room temp, I throw it in the freezer for about 15 minutes. The print just pops off. In fact, most times it just falls off.
 It also helps that I bought this, the edges are already fairly rounded, plus since it's the same material as Pyrex®, less chance of breakage. You can look his store name up on Google, he usually has them available there when he's out on Amazon.
This is the most important one IMO. Eventually you should switch to a glass bed. It's pretty trivial, you just print a shim to change the z end stop and clip a glass bed overtop the buildtak (at least that's what I did).
A new fan shroud is worth doing
As is this little plate
Speaking of, are you aware of the magic numbers? You can find them with an explanation here: https://www.mpselectmini.com/optimal_layer
Here’s the product link.
I just got into this and purchased this 3D printer : ANYCUBIC Photon UV LCD
I absolutely love it. If you want I can message you some pictures of the few minis I've made once I get off work today! I tried the ender 3 printer but it took a bit too much to setup for me but I've heard it can do amazing things too for a lot cheaper.
Yes, still have it - I've run about 1.5L of resin through it, just bought another couple of litres and am starting to think about changing the original FEP sheet out.
My only real complaint is with levelling. It's a bit of a hassle, not because it's hard, per se, it's just that you need to be really precise (you're doing ultra thin layers, after all) and it's easy to get a liiiitle out of whack. Then again, it's pretty much a one-time thing, so it's a marginal complaint in the grand scheme of things. I found it helps to run a piece of paper in each corner to check that they feel pretty much the same; it's easy for one corner to be a little loose. Once I figured that out, I spent maybe 15 - 20 minutes levelling (hold plate down, tighten, check... nope, still not even; loosen, repeat) and haven't touched it since.
As for the S... I think the improved LED is probably the biggest upgrade, since it should reduce cure times and will hopefully produce slightly better prints across the whole platform. That said, I don't know that I'd spend the money to upgrade from my original unit - I've never had any issues with Z wobble and would rather see linear rails if to improve the kinematics anyway. I'd actually be tempted to keep an eye out for sales on the base Photon - Amazon has done a few flash sales lately (LOL, they're actually doing one now!) for $370 or so, and at that price, I don't think the S is worth the premium.
Extruder: get a microswiss hotend for it will be able to print flexible and other materials.
Parts cooling: Upgrade to the petsfang 5015 mod for better print cooling.
Auto bed leveling: Get the TH3D ezabl sensor for great bed leveling.
Other mods: motor dampers to reduce noise and vibration
To smoothers to smooth prints
Raspberry pi for octoprint
All metal extruder
Hope I could help 😀
micro swiss hotend
all metal extuder
Also this is what my petsfang with sensor looks like. https://i.imgur.com/sQahB69.jpg
i have an ender 3 pro and after saying no to any upgrades I finally started to see what everyone is talking about 6 months down the road. here is a list of things that you will see a lot of you tubers tell you to replace. the YouTube channel Tomb of 3D Printed Horrors is a great resource for everything about the ender 3.
the YouTube Chanel Tomb of 3D Printed Horrors has a step by step build guide for your ender 3 ( i used it for mine) he will recommend most of this list as well. He also has other videos on the slicer settings you will use for Cura. for D&D models you can use this google doc list https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1PemvBH7LC-hm4KoeA8OXVu5_k963Vpmw7kOEA_1tzWs/edit?pli=1#gid=0
I will give you my top 5.
1.The hard yellow springs $5 and you will have extras. These will help your bed stay level longer. I think I need to check mine once every.. 10 prints or so or every other week, maybe longer. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013G5I4US/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vkE6Cb8SHNBVG
2.Glass bed. Lowes for $3 cut 2.5mm. Ender 3 bed known to be warped.
3.Pick up a Raspberry pi ~$50 and install octopi/ octoprint.. free, and a mini b to USB cable $5. Now you don't need the to fiddle with micro SD and can manage everything from PC. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BC6WH7V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_olE6Cb8J91Q1J
4.Raspberry pi cam $25 and longer cable $3 to go with your Raspberry pi octoprint. Now you can monitor prints while "away" .. aka relaxing in your lazy boy watching YouTube vids on how bad season 8 of GOT was. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ER2SKFS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_noE6CbXTHCPDS
5.Bowden tube $11. Only if you plan on printing hotter then 240c. So petg, abs.. ECT ECT . https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079P92HN9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KjE6CbDMX6SGE
Hope this helps.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F1K1LTC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (a bit more than 20$ now sorry! lol)
You get enough from these two products to upgrade more than one printer as well, I love capricorn tubing, I wish it was just standard with every printer also just double checking that you're using 1.75mm filament I don't know the CR10 that well if that's an option that wont work with these products if you're using a larger filament. Good Luck!
There are several videos on youtube for first time ender 3 setup. Mostly they cover some detailed orientated techniques like...
as someone brand new to 3d printing--
I just bought an ender 3 last week... I hear a glass bed and aluminum nozzle are crucial upgrades.. Looks like a couple third party ones are discounted for prime day-- are any of them worth while? Is there a difference?
This is the official one from Creality.
Comgrow Creality Ender 3 3D Printer Aluminum DIY with Resume Print 220x220x250mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BR3F9N6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gw5wCbSC4A6DF
It's the one I bought and is legit.
Bought mine from Amazon.de, sold by Comgrow, shipped by Amazon. Ordered on Tuesday last week, arrived three days later. Price was 220€, but I got a spool of black PLA with it for free, so I guess I can round that down to 200€. I guess I did pay a premium, but the fast shipping and the added amazon safety is worth it I guess.
Got mostly lucky with quality control too. The extruder motor bracket is not bent to a perfect 90°, so I had to leave the Z guide screws on it pretty loose. But it prints well, so I'm not complaining.
It’s from creality I just saw it and thought someone would be interested
The MTG Arena of the Planeswalkers board games, if you can get them cheap enough, are a fantastic value for a bunch of minis. I got 2 copies of all three games (really like 2.5 games because one is much smaller) for less than $50 at one point. Mostly humanoid minis, but some interesting models. And the planeswalkers come painted. They don't seem to be on sale on Amazon right now, but if you shop around, I imagine you'll be able to find these cheap somewhere.
Similarly, the D&D Adventure board games often go on sale and are pretty fantastic deal for the quantity, variety, and quality of minis you get. I think the Elemental Evil one is the best as it gives you the 4 elementals, an ettin, and a young black dragon (in addition to all the humanoid sized minis). If you can get it cheap somewhere, it's great! The Castle Ravenloft version is probably the second best, in my option.
Finally, if you're really wanting to dive deep, you could look at 3D printing. It's not the most economical route (unless you're planning on having a huge collection), but it's an entire hobby in itself that supports your other hobby! Great for custom minis, terrain pieces, and having the exact mons you need for next week's game. The Anycubic Photon is an absolute beast of a little resin printer that often goes on sale (I wouldn't be surprised if you can get it for sub $300 on Black Friday) that will give amazing detail with little effort/trouble, and the Ender 3 is a very cheap filament printer that seems to preform really reliably for the price (I do not own this machine, so I'm only speaking based on what I've seen others say). What's cool about the 3D printing route is that just about any monster you can think of as a free model available somewhere online, because the TTRPG 3d printing community is so active!
I hope that helps! Best of luck!
EDIT: changed the link for the Anycubic Photon. Looks like it's $260 on the AC website right now. This is a fantastic price for this machine. A newer alternative is the Elegoo Mars. Hearing fantastic things about it for about the same price.
The Ender-3 and Ender-3 Pro are good budget first printers. I would advise to buy the Pro over the standard Ender 3 since it has a Mean Well UL Certified power supply, rather a generic one. If you can afford it.
Recommend to buy it from Amazon for good customer service or Banggood and Aliexpress if you want the best price.
Ender-3 Pro: https://www.amazon.com.au/Comgrow-Creality-Printer-Upgrade-Certified/dp/B07GYRQVYV/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ender+3+pro&qid=1573525812&sr=8-3
There are other printers in that price range such as the Anycubic i3 Mega, Anet A8 and the Monoprice Select Mini, the Ender 3 is the most popular and easily available in Australia.
> Also wanting to know other than a printer what would I need to start 3d printing. i.e. what sort of computer programs and other periferals
You will need to install a slicer on your computer, which will convert 3D models into instructions for your 3D printer. If you don't want to have your printer plugged into your computer while it is printing, your computer will need to have an sd card slot, if not purchase an adapter.
Highly recommend reading through the Getting Started guide for this subreddit.
Also here is a guide on how to build the Ender 3: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=me8Qrwh907Q
And the Ender 3 Pro: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ibsOYzXduYc
Hope that helps
Probably only a used or clapped out one - from what I'm seeing, the smaller cheapies aren't very good.
You can get an Ender3 around $250 on Amazon without trying hard, and that's a great device.
Not OP but 99% sure it's an Ender 3
Amazon has "prime early access" lightning deal right now on ender 3 with resume print $172.68 shipped.
And looks like that lightning deal's sold out.
They sure do. https://www.amazon.com/CHPOWER-Extruder-Upgraded-Replacement-Extruders/dp/B079JZ374W/ref=sr_1_8?s=industrial&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1540328899&amp;sr=1-8&amp;keywords=ender+3+extruder is one of them, although any kit for the ender 3 or cr-10 will do. And just in case you're interested in the couplers... https://www.amazon.com/Ivelink-PC4-M10-Straight-Pneumatic-Extruder/dp/B073TTWWN1/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1540328976&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=ptfe+coupler you really just need one of each size and they last for a while, but I don't see a smaller set for much less $.
For me, the extruder assembly was the problem, and didn't grip the filament enough.
I bought that and it worked great, then I upgraded to a bondtech extruder and have had zero issues since
The brass fitting is very important. Your only option if you absolutely can't wait is supergluing your fitting in the hole, but then the seller absolutely won't send you a replacement part. Luckily, replacements aren't expensive, and you can even buy a MK8 metal extruder frame which, honestly, you should do anyway as the plastic one is the absolute worst and likely the first part of your printer that will break
I found this metal replacement for $11 on amazon when I had this issue a few weeks ago, such great value
CHPOWER CR-10 Extruder Upgraded Replacement, Aluminum MK8 Drive Feed 3D Printer Extruders for Creality Ender 3, CR-10, CR-10S, CR-10 S4, CR-10 S5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JZ374W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NzsODb9EGYASC
Second - some Amazon links for the upgrade pieces I mention:
Springs - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SDDHYN4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Bowden Tube - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B079P92HN9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Couplings - https://smile.amazon.com/Dorhea-Straight-Pneumatic-Fittings-Accessories/dp/B07NSRCH2W/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=3d+printer+fitting&amp;qid=1574436375&amp;sr=8-15
Extruder - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B079JZ374W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
PEI Sheet - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GSJSDWR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Stepper Motor Dampeners - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C7FRLNX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Bootloader Flashing Kit - https://smile.amazon.com/Gulfcoast-Robotics-Bootloader-Flashing-Duplicator/dp/B07S5BBLKM/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=arduino+uno+ender+3+kit&amp;qid=1574436535&amp;s=industrial&amp;sr=1-3
Note that I didn't buy this flashing kit, but this one seems to have everything you need to get a bootloader onboard the Ender. What happens is you go through a bunch of steps to attach this so the printer and then put a bootloader onto the Ender 3 board. You only have to do that one time, then you can update the firmware as often as you want - typically via a USB cable. I have Octoprint installed, so I can flash my firmware on my basement printers from my upstairs computer using wifi. Super easy and handy.
If it slipped out, then your part is malfunctioning. Go ahead and order those couplers they really do make a world of difference. Also this is the other part I was referring to:
CHPOWER CR-10 Extruder Upgraded Replacement, Aluminum MK8 Drive Feed 3D Printer Extruders for Creality Ender 3, CR-10, CR-10S, CR-10 S4, CR-10 S5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JZ374W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_UsYUDbSXJ318G
The hole where your filament feeds into the Bowden tube will wear down over time due to friction. This part needs to be stronger than your filament or it was start to jam/slip.
It looks like the extruder arm may be squeaking the filament against the extruder wheel so tight it is causing skipped steps and filament to wear off on the wheel.
I bit the bullet and got an aluminum extruder arm kit from amazon - CHPOWER CR-10 Extruder Upgraded Replacement, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JZ374W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kCaPCbF0AF0C3 - and have had good luck and no more skipped steps since changing.
I'm pretty new to this too, I bought my Ender 3 Pro around the same time as you. Quiet printing is pretty high on my list as well as being able to print high-temp exotic filaments in the long term while maintaining reliability.
First upgrades I purchased were stiffer bed springs so I would be less likely to throw the bed out of level while removing prints or working around the printer and Capricorn XS tube since it has a more consistent internal diameter, fits closer to the filament, and can work with slightly higher temps. I also picked up a pack of bowden couplers recently as I noticed the end nearest the extruder is sliding past the coupler jaws on de/retraction; don't worry about that unless it's an issue for you. That's about $30 alone since I don't have a supply shop locally and have to order those parts in bulk. I had a Pi 3B laying around unused and flashed Octoprint onto it. Highly recommended. I have a replacement Noctua hotend fan, buck converters, and 5015 blower on order to quiet the fan noise; about $32. Just replaced the Meanwell psu fan with a 60x25mm Noctua I had lying around (Note: there may be better options in the 92-120mm range to replace part of the PSU housing, but that's what I had laying around). Next upgrade coming is the SKR Mini E3 with TMC 2209 drivers ($28) to eliminate almost all of the stepper noise. Also looking into a replacement for the control board fan and some vibration isolating feet for the frame. As far as higher temp printing I haven't made a lot of progress aside from buying a titanium all-metal heat brake ($11) winch I have yet to install or inspect, and looking into enclosure and electronics relocation avenues.
Either way the mods I purchased came in at around $100 US which should quiet the printer and help with reliability. Also looking into picking up a good M3-M4 bolt kit if any exist in the US.
Here are some links to the things I picked up and will, which may be helpful if you're in the US. Mostly from Amazon.
Type | Name | Link | Price
Reliability | 8mm x 20mm yellow springs | Link | $6.98
Reliability | Capricorn XS Tubing | Link | $11.49
Reliability | PC4-M6 / PC4-M10 Pneumatic Bowden Fittings | Link | $11.99
Silence | Noctua 40mm x 10mm 3-pin fan | Link | $13.95
Silence/Various | LM2596 Adjustable Buck Converters | Link | $10.95
Silence | 24v 5015 Radial Ball Bearing Fans | Link | $7.19
Silence/Various | SKR Mini E3 w/ TMC 2209 drivers | Link | $28.81
High Temp | Titanium All-Metal Heat Brake | Link | $11.52
TOTAL: $102.88 US + Tax
Parts already purchased/ bought with printer
Type | Name | Link | Price
Reliability/High Temp | OEM Ender 3 Glass Bed | Link | $20
Reliability | Feeler Guage Set | Link | $5
Reliability | 608zz Bearings, using with this(My Remix), this, and this, though I like this design a bit better | Link | $5.98
QoL Improvement | Raspberry Pi 3B w/ Octoprint | Link | $34.46
Silence | Noctua 60mm x 25mm 3-pin fan, goes with this mod | Link | $14.95
TOTAL: $80.39 US + Tax
Future planned upgrades
are you using an all-metal hotend?
Heat creep was really bad on my CR-10 when I switched to a microswiss all-metal. Initially I fixed it by reducing my retraction distance and increasing my retraction speed, but on longer prints it still ended up being too much of a problem and I switched to a new heatbrake that allowed the bowden tube to go all the way down to the nozzle and used Capricorn bowden tube to avoid deformation.
I'm getting much cleaner prints now and zero jamming. I think this heatbrake works with the original CR-10 heatsink
Most of these are less about upgrading, and more about fixing possible issues. But all of these are great to have and extremely cheap.
As others have said the glass bed and yellow bed springs are great, just be aware the amazon listing on there I used was shipped from china and took almost a month to show up. So pay attention to the shipping times.
The couplers the E3 comes with are straight up garbage. If they are not causing problems yet... they will. These are way better and give you plenty of extras if you ever need them:
The PTFE tube it comes with is also not great, any replacement one is usually better, and like others said with Capricorn you can print higher temps, but they also are manufactured to tighter tolerances and have less slack in your system. As to if this is a noticeable difference, it's arguable, but upgrading has fixed problems for some people.
Even more important than the tubing it self is the cutter you use, if you buy different tubing, make sure you get a good cutter so the ends don't get pinched. This can cause drag that causes underextrusion.
The plastic extruder on the E3 is know to wear out after a few months for some. A filament guide will help but a better aluminum extruder should fix it for good. They are cheap and easy to install:
Once you want to go deeper down the hole, the two big mods that you will be happy with are A auto bed leveler and quieter stepper motors. There are guides for both of these on youtube and they are much more complicated and a bit more expensive but give amazing results.
A BLTouch goes for about $80 with the extension cable so you don't have to cut wires. It will make it so you save an offset and basically rarely have to level your bed again and the machine will account for most of it. There is another type of leveler I think it's called EZABL or something like that, but I liked the BLTouch option better so I never did the research on it.
If you want to do more upgrades like a touch screen, filament rounout sensor, and etc. you need a different main board. Most people upgrade to the MKS Gen L. They are about $25 bucks but require you to also buy new stepper motor drivers, which i'll touch on next. The board has more memory and slots for upgrades that the stock board does not. It does require a lot more setup and printing a new housing for the board. Again there are great youtube videos, just search for 'Ender 3 MKS Gen L'
If you think the Ender 3 is loud and would like it to be WAY quieter you can install better stepper motor drivers. The TMC 2208 driver will make the movement almost silent. you will still hear the fans, but the movement sound will completely gone. To install them you will need to either use the above mentioned board (as the stock board has the drivers integrated) or if you want an easier way you can order the Ender 3 Silent Ver 1.4 board:
This won't give you the upgradabiliity of the MKS board, but is a direct drop in replacement that gives you the silent steppers.
Welcome to family, and I hope some of that was helpful
You can get the extruder here with a halfway decent tube. That includes a tube but it isn't as good as the capricorn tube, which you can get here. I ended up getting the extruder with the not-as-good tube, and have been running that. I have a capricorn tube on standby in case I need it but so far haven't, so maybe the tube included with that extruder is good enough, but I may also just be lucky.
There's no instructions included with that kit, so you'll want to follow along with something online. Here's a video from the same channel I linked to earlier that should help.
I actually replaced my whole extrusion path.
First, I found that the spring in the stock extruder assembly would fatigue resulting in under extrusion and jams. The BMG is a little pricey but worth it IMO. Comes with pretty good instructions.
Second, I switched to a Micro-swiss all metal hot-end. I probably didn't need to do this - given I almost never print high-temp materials but did it anyway.
Last, cheapest, and not least, Capricorn Tubing. Do not underestimate the difference this can make.
If you're up to the challenge, I highly recommend a BLTouch. It completely solved my first layer woes (warped bed on my CR-10s).
Two things I would I highly recommend is to get a new extruder assembly and a new Bowden tube. I've had similar issues and they went away as soon as I changed these parts out.
Upgrade 3D Printer Parts MK8 Extruder Aluminum Alloy Block Bowden Extruder 1.75mm Filament for Creality 3D Ender 3,CR-7,CR-8, CR-10, CR-10S, CR-10 S4, and CR-10 S5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B96QMN2/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_6tWTDb1JYN38X
Capricorn Bowden PTFE Tubing XS Series 1 Meter for 1.75mm Filament (Genuine Capricorn Premium Tubing) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079P92HN9/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_vvWTDbKY7ZVTY
These or any other should work
PTFE. This is the cadillac option. Cheaper tubing is very cheap, like $5 for 5 feet or something.
I didn't mention these as I haven't installed them, but stepper dampeners. Please see the stickied thread on /r/ender3 about these, if you want to order them!
The springs I ordered. Note: I couldn't quite replace the one where the wires attach to the bed. I didn't play around too much, I just left that one on there. The other three have held solid, and the next time I'm adjusting my bed, I'll try to put that one on there as well.
Hope that helps!
Edit: Reddit markdown not liking my links, I'll try to fix them
I got my Ender 3 Pro about a month ago, performed some upgrades and ran into a few problems, but with some weird caveates.
I'm trying to print multiple miniatures on a single print, but seem to be getting a lot of oozing or stringing issues, but when I test with retraction tests, the test comes out perfect with identical settings. Additionally, when googling around, I couldn't find anything except for potentially a nozzle clog or potentially hydrated filament (possible, I'll test this later)
I've tested a few other prints as well, a benchy and a testcube, they print fine. Really curious about what's going on. Do I need to spread the prints out more, use different settings, or is it more of a mechanical issue?
I'd appreciate any help you guys have to recommend!
So, lets get down to it:
Printer: Creality Ender 3 Pro
Surface: Creality Glass surface
Upgrades: Aluminum extruder upgrade
New bed springs
In addition to these, I've tightened the X and Y bolts on the runners to reduce wobble -- there's no more wobble, maybe they're too tight? I don't think so, I've had good prints with these settings, but not with a few things.
Basically the same as the "normal" settings for the Ender 3 on Cura 4.0.0
But in addition: (And what I think may be important is bolded)
adhesion_type = raft
layer_height = 0.12
support_tree_enable = True
support_type = buildplate
brim_outside_only = False
fill_outline_gaps = True
infill_pattern = cubic
infill_sparse_density = 25
material_final_print_temperature = 180
material_initial_print_temperature = 180
material_print_temperature = 185
optimize_wall_printing_order = True
raft_margin = 10
retraction_amount = 7.5
retraction_speed = 20
speed_print = 30
support_angle = 40
support_conical_enabled = True
support_infill_rate = 50
support_interface_enable = True
support_pattern = lines
** NOTE ** Standard supports are turned off, I'm using the tree supports
support_tree_collision_resolution = 0.15
travel_avoid_supports = True
travel_compensate_overlapping_walls_enabled = False
wall_thickness = 1.2
*may* not be your issue but you will need to recalibrate your estep is you swapped the hob gear (extruder gear) as they are different diameters than the stock one.
Total side note for anybody who wants to clean up their links: Anything after the ? is erroneous data for anybody else clicking the link unless it has multiple options to select. This works for most websites, including ebay.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B079P92HN9 <-- Really only what is needed.
I was just doing some test prints to get the bed re-leveled and this fitting decided it didn't want to live any more.
Time to order some new parts, I guess.
here you go
Not endorsing this specific seller, but this is the part:
Upgrade 3D Printer Parts MK8 Extruder Aluminum Alloy Block Bowden Extruder 1.75mm Filament for Creality 3D Ender 3,CR-7,CR-8, CR-10, CR-10S, CR-10 S4, and CR-10 S5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B96QMN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_sWAoDbM7TR505
Just search for Ender 3 extruder upgrade.
You've absolutely chosen a perfectly good printer. The Pro is just sold with a few conveniences, nothing that will really change print quality and nothing that you can't make better yourself in the long-term.
I will be honest with you. There will be frustrating times ahead. Times when it feels like the bed won't level no matter what you do, when prints won't come out how you like them, when parts fail, etc. And that happens, and it's usually a good time to step away from it for a few days. Don't be discouraged!
Here's some planning ahead advice:
The Bowden Tube couplers that come stock are terrible. Absolutely terrible. They barely hold the tubes in and need plastic clips to function. Grab some replacements early. You may not need a 20 pack, but something in this vein.
The insulation on the heating block (yellow insulation cotton held on with tape) is a bit of a pain. Mine came off just by holding the heat block to change the nozzle. Some silicon socks are cheap as dirt and are easy to take on/off when you need to mess with the hotend.
If an electronic part fails (one of the fans, for example) and you don't want to go out and buy a soldering iron, solder sleeves are a quick and easy alternative.
And finally, the plastic extruder (the place where you feed the filament in) will 100% break. That is a promise. Save yourself some trouble and pick up a metal extruder to give you some peace of mind.
Keep in mind, these are absolutely not things that you need to go out and purchase right now, this is just some fixes to common problems you can reference should one of these issues crop up. You're entirely ready to print right out of the box!
So far I’ve added
A MK8 aluminum extruder (amazon )
Aokin PTFE tube w/ fittings (amazon )
A printed Fan Cover (thingiverse )
Cable clips (thingiverse )
Tool holders (thingiverse
Z axis motor spacings were the first print too. (thingiverse )
Underextrusion. I had that same issue until I upgraded to an all metal extruder and calibrated my extruder.
First off, check out the Wiki:
The only one I have personal experience with is a Wanhao Duplicator i3. It's fine for what I paid for it three years ago, but there are better options available today.
I'm posting links from Amazon below because I'm lazy. You can probably shave off $20 or more if you do some bargain hunting. Beware of shady dealers though -- some will give you opened/used stuff, so check the reviews.
The consensus here for the best quality bottom-dollar printer seems to be the Ender 3 at around $230:
The Monoprice Mini is supposed to be good too, but I would find the limited build volume annoying.
The cheapest one I would personally consider buying today is the Ender 5 at around $350. I like printers that are designed so the print bed doesn't have to shuttle the whole print back and forth with every movement in the y direction -- in general, you can get high quality prints at faster print speeds if the print bed is only moving slowly in the z direction and the hotend does all the jerky x and y movement.
If I was going to spend a little more for some nice bonus features, I'd probably go with a Monoprice Ultimate 2 at $550:
If my budget was higher ($800-$1200), and I had a ton of free time, I'd build a Voron from parts:
ender3 is available in amazon.com now,
I personally love the Ender 3 by Creality, it has a little of assembly but its way worth it, I would watch a few videos on youtube about it. You will also have to level the bed, this is my favorite way to do that, Chep Ender 3 Bed Level. some great filament is this.
Will do. Please let me know if you got the updated one. I ordered this one..
Comgrow Creality Ender 3 3D Printer Aluminum DIY with Resume Print 220x220x250mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BR3F9N6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nraNBb7AZZ37G
Idk about $180, but you can definitely save a bit of money if you order it from the warehouse in China. It just takes longer to arrive, and I personally feel more comfortable dealing with Amazon, as compared to eBay or Alibaba.
OP, here are a few purchasing option links. Also, I would go with the glass bed option if I were you. The eBay link has the option to choose "Ender 3 + Glass Bed" at what looks like no extra cost. Otherwise, you can buy the glass bed separately for less than $20.
eBay Creality Warehouse store ($205): https://www.ebay.com/itm/Creality-Ender-3-Ender-3-Pro-3D-Printer-220X220X250mm-DC-24V-1-75mm-PLA/223496146513?hash=item3409688e51:m:mCXoexVEaY-yqetXfGJ-tyg
Alibaba Creality Warehouse store ($200): https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Official-Creality-3D-Ender-3-Ender_62047106886.html?spm=a2793.1176918.104.22.168733e5fSDdLkY
Amazon.com ($230): https://www.amazon.com/Comgrow-Creality-Ender-Aluminum-220x220x250mm/dp/B07BR3F9N6/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=ender+3&qid=1571603563&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExVko5TVZIMU5VVzRKJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTk4NDkzMkxIQ1ZQRDVRSE1NJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAxMjc0MDlFWEc2V1BKT0ZGWjkmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl
Ender 3 Glass Bed ($17): https://www.amazon.com/Creality-Ender-Glass-Upgraded-235x235x4mm/dp/B07RD6D2ZQ/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?keywords=ender+3+glass+bed&qid=1571603812&sr=8-3-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyRjhOSlg2T0ZVRDNLJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDY4MzE3MkJJV1ozNk5VSENKUCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNjY0MzIwWUhHWFJSU0U0V1NBJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
This is the model I got It's not high-end or fast. I like it because when it breaks it's easy to work on, and parts are not too expensive. It prints u/mz4250's models really well. Not as detailed as resin but good enough for DnD figurines.
$230 on amazon for the lazy:
I went with this one:
I had heard that the Comgrow and Sainsmart Ender 3's were the best ones to order when i was reading up on them.
This was the one that I ordered. I ended up getting it during a lightning deal, so it was $170 at the time. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BR3F9N6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I took the fan case off and cleaned off all the pla that was on top and the sides of the silver brick. It is clean now, and the wiring looks good.
They aren't much $ anymore..a printer that can print these padeyes just like this cost under $300 nowadays..the creality ender 3 is a great starter 3d printer
For same price you can get a ender 3 new or the pro for 20 more. Cheaper if you wait for a sale.
Become your own source. Cut out the middle man. Destroy Unicron. Kill the Grand Poobah. Eliminate even the toughest stain.
The Ender 3 is $250. The Anycubic Photon is out there for $450 if you want higher quality for more trouble and messier process.
Welcome to the hobby. I like to use Hatchbox PLA. Your gonna want to check out r/PrintedMinis r/3Dprinting and I like 3D Printed Tabletop.
Hey everybody, I'm relatively new to the 3D printing scene as far as the printers themselves are concerned. I've been looking around for a sub $500 printer and I found the Creality Ender 3 Pro on Amazon for ~$260. Wanted to know if anyone has one and what they think of it or if there are suggestions for others.
Any feedback is helpful and much appreciated and the link to the printer is below. Thanks!
Creality Ender 3 Pro: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GYRQVYV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0DEYCbVJH97DS
3d printing is a pretty niche process, but it has some incredibly cool applications. I use mine for printing custom parts for DIY projects, special items for Cosplay, and little minifigurines for tabletop games. They'll probably never replace injection molding, but for small scale projects they're fantastic.
As for the quality of the printers, it depends a lot on what you're talking about. Something like an Ender 3 is a great machine, both inexpensive and decent quality, but still essentially a hobbyist tool. More expensive brands like Makerbot do lots of little proprietary things to their machines to make them more capable of high quality prints, though in my experience you can usually get pretty close to professional using hobbyist machines as well.
Some printers are also just produced with higher quality parts, which makes them print better and operate more reliably, but still essentially are the same basic design as the cheaper versions. Compare the Ender I posted earlier to something like this which has a plastic frame. The plastic can warp and bend, leading to issues printing, wheras the ender has a metal frame which is more rigid. That simple change makes a huge difference in print quality, and other things like that can be done, from changing the extrusion method to using higher quality electronics, all of which changes the price and quality, but ultimately not how the printer actually "works".
[Here’s one](Comgrow Creality Ender 3 Pro 3D Printer with Removable Build Surface Plate and UL Certified Power Supply 220x220x250mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GYRQVYV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EXX1DbYEDMC60) on Amazon that’s legitimate: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GYRQVYV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EXX1DbYEDMC60
Hello all, just found this subreddit for the first time tonight!
Looking to order my first 3d printer.
I’m in the USA.
I can build a kit.
Honestly it will just be used to play around and make small prototype like parts.
Budget is around $300+-
I think I’ve narrowed it down to these two:
Creality Ender 3 Pro
The AnyCubic Mega S
Any thoughts on the two of these for a newb.
I’m a tinkerer, and machinist, right now I own a Shapeoko CNC router, but have programmed and created many things over the years.
I appreciate the help!
I’d like to order tonight!
Don't purchase a Delta for your first printer - they're far more hassle than worth. For 900USD, I'd recommend the Flashforge Creator Pro. A replicator 2 clone that's built great, pretty much plug and play, comes with filament. Has to be set up with something like Sli3r or Cura but it's not very difficult and there is a great tutorial here.
i've used it before (with PLA) and the enclosure / heated build plate do great things for the quality of the print, fairly good build volume and top rated on 3dprinthubs.
The Flashforge Creator Pro and similar machines (they're all clones of the Replicator One dual) may do the trick. Nowadays they come with sides, front doors, and top covers so they're relatively cat safe. The Blessed Cat here recognizes the "filament loading" sound and desperately wants to catch that mysterious noodle thingie but so far she's had no luck.
They don't have so-called autoleveling, which is fine by me. The build platforms are stable enough that once you get the trick of leveling (AKA tramming) the bed to be flat with respect to the plane of the nozzle travel then it's usually good for a long time without needed to be tweaked.
They print PETG just fine, insofar as PETG ever prints "fine." It can be fussy but it's awesome when dialed in right. The bracket on the right, to replace the original swing arm lamp bracket, is done in PETG and is holding up great.
Yeah, I printed the pink divider with a Flashforge Creator Pro.
Flash Forge pro. I hear it has great support, but I've never needed to use it. Great printer
I thought about a Lulzbot for a long time, but ended up going for the Forge. Enclosed so its easier to print ABS, smaller build space, but I dont mind that with what I do with it.
Thanks! I'd not heard of that model. Someone else recommended Flashforge 3d (http://www.amazon.com/FlashForge-Structure-Optimized-Platform-Extruder/dp/B00I8NM6JO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449683425&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=ultimaker+3d+printer) any comparison.. or is the Ultimaker 2go that much better.
Casting would allow me to use different materials, adjust the painting, weigh them correctly..
WOOD FILL?? Oh my. That IS interesting.
Flash Forge Creator Pro. I had a lot of problems with it out of the box with clogging in the nozzles and things sticking to the build plate. After adding a metal hotend and magnetic build plate it has worked amazingly with no issues. I see the magnetic build plate is out of stock, so not sure where you can get those now, but being able to just flex the plate and have pieces pop right off is great.
sanding helps, but you need this
This is the coating. It is liquid epoxy and can be very messy if you don't plan it out. https://www.amazon.com/XTC-3D-High-Performance-Print-Coating/dp/B00PFXK4JY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511381617&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=3d+print+finishing
This is the one I think he is printing - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:404028
You could potentially do an acetone wash.
I use Smooth-On XTC-3D, but it might not be right for your application. It can add some thickness to parts, which in the case of Sledgefire shells might make them unusable.
Nice! I'm sure that'll look awesome. I suggest using bondo to fill cracks and divits and XTC-3D or a similar epoxy to cover the entire piece to smooth it out.
I can't say this is what the "best" method is, just what has worked for me in the past:
My biggest gripe with 3D printing was that the ridges were always present. This process makes it so the ridges are non-existent and easier to paint!
Edit: I should mention I've mostly worked with large scale cosplay props. This process might not work for everything, like you probably don't need to put epoxy on small stuff.
This is what you need to make it look 100% better http://www.amazon.com/XTC-3D-High-Performance-Print-Coating/dp/B00PFXK4JY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1451974721&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=Xtc+3d
Not much really. The benefit of buying the mk2s is that you really don't need to modify or swap anything.
Here are a few things you might want in my opinion:
Looks good. I've been wanting to print up a car too.
You should look into XTC-3D.
I used this on my 3D printed upper/battery compartment
It worked great! Took a couple hours to sand after but then just primered it and thats it.
You can order this stuff off Amazon and it's specifically made for 3d prints. The ones I've done have a mirror finish, and you can tint it directly to make candy automotive style finishes. Or you can prime it and paint it.
I'm not sure how much help I'll be, but I also use a Flashforge Creator Pro...
1: If you're sick of dealing with abs, just put some blue painters tape on the bed and print PLA, once you open up the thing enough and modify your settings it does PLA perfectly well.
2: PVA glue stick, (though it looks like you are already using this) helps with bed adhesion with ABS and also gives you a bit of an ablative layer for when you are scraping things back off.
3: get a print removal tool like https://smile.amazon.com/ToyBuilder-Labs-Print-Removal-Tool/dp/B00VB1U886/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1494526580&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=print+removal+tool to help pry things off the bed without destroying the sheet.
4: rafts, these really help with getting things off the bed, you waste quite a bit of plastic, but it's much easier to get things off.
5: bed level (and height) adjustment (and this really should be number 1) the little plastic sheet they give you to slide under the nozzle is of no real value, you may just be printing the first layer way too close to the bed, and absolutely squishing the filament into the bed. It is far more useful to just print a leveling pattern and then see where the bed needs adjustment and how it's extruding than to even bother with pulling the sheet out from under the head. I use this one http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:97151 and generally will tweak things until the strands are attached but will come off with my fingernails.
It shows decent shipping for me, says id get it in a bit over a week. Its 5$ more than amazon as seller though https://www.amazon.com/HATCHBOX-3D-WOOD-1KG1-75-Filament-Dimensional/dp/B01092XXD4/ref=s9_simh_gw_g328_i2_r?_encoding=UTF8&amp;fpl=fresh&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=&amp;pf_rd_r=9D8V700W3MJKX2N6FQEN&amp;pf_rd_t=36701&amp;pf_rd_p=a6aaf593-1ba4-4f4e-bdcc-0febe090b8ed&amp;pf_rd_i=desktop&amp;th=1
All three crests were printed on a stock ender three with Hatchbox Wood pla. The pla I used sands and stain just like wood so it was the perfect choice for these crests.
For the Gryffindor and Raven claw crests, I used regular dark wood stain. The Slytherin crest is what the prints look lime without staining. I plan on on painting the Slytherin one as I dont think the stained look fits the house. Links to everything I used can be found below.
Link to filament
Raven Claw Crest
I've only used https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01092XXD4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 but had some great results.
Here's some of my wood pla projects. The first two images are sanded and stained, the final is fresh off the printer with some fuckups I was troubleshooting. https://imgur.com/a/DdEEXzZ
I used a red mahogany stain
here is the filament https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01092XXD4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I'm expecting my printer tomorrow (Maker Select v2 - couldn't wait for mini v2 and reading mixed thoughts put me off) going to try printing this with a wood PLA. (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01092XXD4) Really excited to see how it turns out. Have to wait until Tues for the filament, but that'll give me some time to acquaint myself with this beast. Thanks for inspiring me.
It's available on the US amazon $34...
I found a clone board, which includes an LCD, Mega, motor driver, etc. I've got a Raspberry Pi lying around that I can use to run Octoprint. My only concern is, as it's a clone part, is it going to be worth the $37 US? Also, a question about the heated bed - I assume the builid plate sits above the heated bed, so must the build plate be the same size as the heated bed? Or can it be slightly larger? I'll get back to you after I get the parts (or worst case, my printer doesn't cancel). Thank you for all your help, xakh!
EDIT: Also, I'm having some trouble locating a bowden cable. Also, the printer's coming in around $50 over my $250 budget. Is it possible to cut that any lower?
EDIT2: This really, really sucks. My printer was shipped already and they won't cancel it. Well, this will be the first thing I print after I level the bed and test it out. Thank you for your help, I'll build a SmartRapCore as soon as I can. Sigh
For sure. http://www.soliforum.com/topic/2816/howto-converting-to-a-ramps-controller/
Pretty helpful sub, you can always ask me for help if you get stuck along the way. Also, I used the Makerfarm Pegasus instructions for putting the RAMPS together.
This is the kit I bought, it was mostly complete but I had to order some jumpers because I was short a few. http://www.amazon.com/OSOYOO-Printer-Controller-Stepper-Heatsink/dp/B0111ZSS2O?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00
From what I've seen online, on forums, on YouTube, etc: the Micro3D is not a good buy. Like others have said its hit or miss. They're a Kickstarter company with flashy marketing and a low cost/low quality machine. I'd recommend watching as many YouTube reviews as possible before making that decision.
On the other hand, Monoprice printers have great ratings and reviews for similar prices. They have larger diameter linear rods and a stiffer construction.
Hi. New to 3d Printing.
I mainly want to learn and make random Star Wars and Halo stuff for my kids.
I was looking at this one.
I would like it to be no more than $400 (that is pushing it since the wife is 3/4 onboard).
Thank you for your time and advice.
I found this one on amazon I think it's from the right people and It's the cheapest one I could find
At least prices have dropped. Like these. Considering even basic machines used to be at least $1,000 US only a few years ago, this is an improvement. The $350 version is cheaper on Amazon.
You can save even more by building from components.
Plastic is relatively inexpensive if you buy from Micro Center (again assuming USA)--$17 after taxes per 1kg roll.
It's certainly not the cheapest hobby, but like most technologies, prices tend to go down while quality goes up.
Essentially, the biggests sacrifices you make at the lower end are lack of a heated bed and smaller build volumes.
/r/3dprinting can help you get started.
It came out a little messy in some spots, but I was honestly impressed with the quality this thing can put out - it's on par with some $1500+ printers after a little tweaking.
This was printed on a Monoprice Maker Select. It's currently at $350, but it's not uncommon to see it drop to nearly $300. It's probably the best bang for your buck as far as printers go, and it's definitely one of the cheapest out there. Monoprice also makes the Maker Select Mini for $220 that's a little simpler and has a smaller build plate.
Shameless plug: if you want to get something printed/see what this one can do, you should use my hub at 3DHubs and let me buy more filament! It's cheap, and if you tell me you're from reddit I'll give you $2 off!
edit: here's the link to the model
Yes. I have 2. In my pic the one on the left was $800 and the one on the right was $300. They both print at the same quality. This one works for a lot of people. https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-13860-Maker-Select-Printer/dp/B018GZBC3Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496349955&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=maker+select+monoprice
I just got a Monoprice Maker Select v2 about a week ago. It's working really well so far. Only $300 on Amazon, has a nice large print area, and a heated plate. If you're looking to get into 3D printing, this seems like a great one to get. Seems to be the best bang for your buck. And it's a popular printer so there's a large online community surrounding it for support.
Link: Monoprice Maker Select 3D Printer v2 – (113860) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018GZBC3Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PUSCzbHHJ07EC
Either the monoprice maker select or the monoprice select mini
Remember you'll also need to spend money on plastic regularly so take that into account with your budget.
Monoprice MS V2 I just got mine and i love it
The Monoprice maker select v2(.1?) Is a little over $300 on Amazon, but other than that, it fits all of your other needs. It uses standard metric screws and such, so fixing and modding the printer is easy. It's also has a respectable build volume of 200mm^2 and a height of 180mm, which is nice to have. It comes mostly assembled: you just need to use 4 included screws to attatch the gantry to the base and 2 more to attach the filament holder. It took me no time at all to start a test print. I'm coming up on six months with my printer now, and it hasn't given out on me once. For the best prints, you'll want to do some mods, but only the absolutely necessary MOSFET mod requires non-printed hardware that isn't just screws and nuts (or the standard M8 threaded rod used in AzzA's Z-brace mod).
Tl;dr: Monoprice Maker Select v2 on Amazon, order a MOSFET to go with it, 10/10 IGN
There's either kit or assembled printers. I bought this off amazon, it really just requires you to screw the base and Z axis together and calibrate (which you'll always have to do on a printer) and you're basically all set. I would suggest seeing if amazon, wanhao, or monoprice deliver to where you are without costing an arm and a leg, and go that route.
Amazon has the Maker Select v2 on sale for $286 with free Prime shipping today.
Monoprice 13860 Maker Select 3d Printer V2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018GZBC3Y/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_oVLkybMZSNHRH
I'm Thinking About Purchasing A Monoprice Select V2 At Amazon At Black Friday/Cyber Monday But Don't Know In Wich One I Can Get The Best Deal So Want To Know What You Guys Think About That Based On Your Experiences In Previous Years. Thanks.
from the black friday thread, deal is done but you can still get it here:
For the Canadians looking for a deal, Amazon.ca has the Monoprice Maker Select for a good price at $398 CAD with free shipping. Ships from Amazon's Toronto warehouse so you won't have to worry about duty. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B018GZBC3Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 - JeffDM
The Monoprice Mini does not have a heated bed, and does not have a dedicated part cooling fan. This limits you to printing PLA only, and quality will suffer a bit due to the lack of a fan.
The fan is a pretty easy upgrade, heated bed a bit more work. For only around $50 more, you can get the regular Maker Select which does not have these limitations and has a much larger build area. It has pretty good reviews.
As for the Prusa, yeah it's pretty damn awesome. Print quality will be better, but more importantly, they're just damn reliable and don't require much work to keep them running. I'm not saying $250 printers are bad, but they do generally require some extra time tinkering, so be prepared for that.
Looks like Monoprice just pulled the majority of their printers from Amazon, but if their historical pricing is any indication, ~250 is the lowest it has ever gone down to:
Any chance you could share the line?
I bought my maker select used from Amazon Warehouse. I got it for $280 when they were going for about $350 new. The stock fake buildtak surface had some gouges on the perimeter that didn't affect any of the printing I did in the center, and the print removal tool had a bunch of dents in it. Other than that, everything was fine.
The new price has since skyrocketed for some reason, and they don't have any used ones.
If you can get it from a retailer with a decent return policy (will let you return it for free after being able to set it up and inspect it), do it.
But I agree with the others that caution you about buying a used printer on ebay that might not have a favorable return policy.
Its an excellent printer. I did a lot of research before buying. Comes with 2 reels of filament, and video manuals.
This is a pretty good flashforge creator pro clone. My only gripe with this printer is that leveling can be a pain in the ass sometimes.
i3s can also be modded to have multiple extruders, or use multiple filaments in one hot end (although the former adds a good amount of time to the final print if the materials have different melting points).
https://www.amazon.ca/QIDI-TECHNOLOGY-3DP-QDA16-01-Structure-Filaments/dp/B01D8M32LU/ref=sr_1_3?crid=26T35QREUTSS6&keywords=qidi+technology+3d+printer&qid=1564285583&s=hi&sprefix=QIDI+TECHNOLOGY+%2Ctools%2C183&sr=8-3 I bought this one with part of my tax return, it works pretty well, but it does take some experimenting with the default settings to get higher quality prints. If you do get a 3d printer just remember, a slower print means more detail and less chance of failure.
Just a heads up, there is a printer made by a company called Qidi Tech that is literally the exact same printer as the one linked, except a few hundred dollars cheaper.
Look into the Qidi Tech. It's practically the same printer, is positively reviewed and is $200 cheaper. It also has a $50 off coupon today so you can get the whole thing for $650.
I have been through 7 different 3d Printers. 2 at work and this is my 5th at home.
This is a nice starter printer: http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=15365
Here is the upgrade: http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=15711
And this is my current printer: https://www.amazon.com/TECHNOLOGY-3DP-QDA16-01-Extruder-Structure-Filaments/dp/B01D8M32LU
No matter what you spend, plan on maintenance, modification and repairs. I have had all of my machines apart enough that I can probably put them back together blind folded.
I have the same printer. While everyone is correct in saying you can handle the higher temps, you need to be careful because of the PTFE hotend it comes with stock. The PTFE tubing in the hotend starts to get mushy around 245 and printing too long at this temperature will eventually result in a clog. I upgraded mine to the Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend and never looked back. Higher, more consistent print temps as well as better looking prints overall!
Alternate Amazon Link
I went with the MicroSwiss upgrade. Was quite painless to do. Just be sure to start your base retraction to .5 and tweak from there. The Cura given with the MP Select has its retraction set to 7mm from the start so you may want to look into adjusting it now before you clog again.
Amazon has the same one if you don't want to mess with the 'bay.
That link looks like a Bowden extruder setup where the stepper motor is further upstream from where the plastic is melted/extruded.
I have a MS+ also, the recommended replacement for that part is the MicroSwiss all metal hotend.
Here is the block:
Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend with SLOTTED Cooling Block for Wanhao i3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E1HANLS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_EPg0BbVAAANA1
Micro Swiss CNC Machined Aluminum Extruder Plate for Wanhao i3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XMRFKRZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_uQg0Bb6WV1GXG
CNC Machined Lever for Wanhao i3 extruder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FWHH4DQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_WQg0Bb10AFP5T
Important thing to remember: Nothing is -ever- mandatory unless it's a major safety issue. The closest thing to that on that printer is the mosfet. I believe your original message implies you replaced the buildtak, so the Mosfet upgrade would be a very good idea unless you plan to change out the control board entirely.
Everything else is Optional and Quality of Life/Print stuff. ^.^
The following are examples on Amazon. Other folks and posts may have better advice on where/what to get.
Y Carriage plate
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUAMRN7/ (This is the part under the heated bed)
MicroSwiss all metal hotend (From other person's post):
Linear bearings would be LM8LUU for the Y rods. If you have the plastic bearing holders, it's easy. If you have the aluminum block bearing holders, you'll have to find somebody else to source info on the circlips and how to not become sad with them.
You can print things just fine without any of these upgrades, so don't worry about the long print (unless you run out of filament).
A new controller board can do extra stuff and is required (Highly recommended, since you "can" make the probe work on the Melzi board, but poorly and at the cost of other things) for Z-Probe use, dual extruder, and with the heated bed on that printer, can remove the need for a separate MOSFET. It opens the path for other upgrades, can improve print quality to a degree in some cases, and can drive you absolutely nuts trying to set it up.
The inexpensive Quality of Life I'd recommend are thumbwheels with nylock nuts (hard to turn, but keep your level for a long time); corner-bracket spring cups (printed); and glass print bed. Two sets of printed things and about $12 at worst for the glass.
The bearing upgrade (If you can do it without fighting circlips) helps reduce Y-axis stutter and vibration. That upgrade brought my print quality up hugely. $25 or so if you get a lot of spares or higher quality ones.
The Y platform helps you with leveling and staying level.
The lack enclosure has some printed parts, $20-40 worth of Ikea furniture, and up to $50 worth of siding depending on your ability to cut glass and plexiglass.
So many things you CAN do. None that you MUST do. Some that you SHOULD do. And everything else is Just For Fun.
FYI, The Monoprice Maker select V2 is a rebranded Wanhao Duplicator i3 V2.1, and its also known as the Coccoon Create in other countries. If you see any of those names, thats your printer.
Your printer doesnt use an E3D V6 hotend, it uses a MK10 hotend.
You can use a V6, but you'll have to print a bracket for it, will probably require some firmware changes with requires flashing a bootloader with an arduino, and may require some additional hardware.
Normally its recommended to just heat up your hotend and carefully pull that plastic off with tweezers, but as your heating cartridge is damaged, that leaves you with two options-
I never used it, but this one from Gulfcoast Robotics looks well made as well. this is your whole setup minus a heating cartridge. A whole all metal hotend with nozzle and thermistor for $45 is a deal. They've even got installation instructions linked in the description. Side note- i assume it takes a 1/4in 6.35mm cartridge like the original but you might want to double check with them. You can never go wrong with well-manufactured American components.
Either way you'll need a new heater cartridge (and probably thermistor). Heres a link to a replacement cartridge. Heres a link to a store full of wanhao parts.
This printer uses an unusual sized heater cartridge- 1/4in, AKA 6.35mm.
Most (E3D) cartridges are 6mm.
Dont get a 6mm cartridge, get a 6.3-6.35mm cartridge. (A 6mm will be too loose and thats one of the reasons that the Anet A8 is such a fire hazard, the heater cartridge can fall out)
Nozzles are all generally brass. Those should be expected to be replaced from time to time. They are relatively cheap. The Microswiss upgrade is more than just a nozzle. It replaces the stock hotend with all metal. In your stock hotend is a PTFE tube that can cause jams, will deform if heated too high, and prevents you from using certain materials. The microswiss is a relatively inexpensive and easy way to fix this.
I recommend the block too: https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Hotend-SLOTTED-Cooling-Wanhao/dp/B01E1HANLS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503589251&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=microswiss
However you can save a little money:
Yes, it's that z brace mod. Make sure you use the version with the adjustment nuts at the top AND bottom.
Here's the hot end.
I also recommend the 120mm fan mod to shut those noisy fans up, a glass bed because the leveling of the bed it comes with is horrible, an upgraded spool holder, and some lock nuts for the bed. (At a minimum.)
I bought this and it's helped with cloggs I used to get a lot.
Seconding everything people have said here and want to add the following.
A glass bed with 10mil PEI from CS Hyde will do wonders for bed leveling.
Upgrade your Y plate as soon as possible, the stock one warps over enough time making bed leveling nearly impossible.
All metal hotend such as the micro swiss is amazing, no more clogged PTFE tubing, easier to clean if it does.
Z brace is a must, also print a fan cooler like the Diicooler on thingiverse. Replace the stock part cooling fan with a nice radial fan, plenty on amazon, make sure its 12v. This helps prints come out cleaner.
Yours should come with thumbwheels, if not, print some, bed leveling is easier with it.
Print some spring cups as well, keeps the springs straight and not bending when leveling the bed.
DO THE MOSFET MOD TO MAKE IT SAFE!
Watch this vid and do his printed mods https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tpcm4XEbP1Q&amp;t=752s&amp;list=PLyIdpN_zILcknsQzSZSiWhQ685NxkWsvD&amp;index=2
Also, stay far far FAR away from Shaxon filament! It broke my hotend, check my post history to see the red glob of death I dealt with. I have had very good luck with eSun PLA.
Links for bought parts:
Fans: [here (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MJU6JR2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1)]
Glass plate: [Here (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B2YLWF9/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1)]
Y plate: [Here (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B251KBS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1)]
MOSFET: [here(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HEQVQAK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1)] and wires [here(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017U6PGLO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1)]
You didn't; Monoprice Select Mini
I got it for $180 on sale, normal is $220. Overall it's a great starter, but if you're willing to wait the Tiko is looking very promising.
Do you know if I'd be able to use this: Monoprice Select Mini 3D Printer with Heated Build Plate, Includes Micro SD Card and Sample PLA Filament - 115365 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FL49VZE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_D5cBybZRTE4BT
Is this v2 different than the "Monoprice Select Mini 3D Printer with Heated Build Plate, Includes Micro SD Card and Sample PLA Filament - 115365" on amazon?
Shipping is much more pleasant on Amazon, but if they aren't the same (v2?) then I'll patiently wait for the slow boat.
I have this printer and have been very impressed with it. there is a large Reddit community for it and it is pretty cheap. Really nice quality too full metal construction.
Don't get me wrong, it's certainly a tinkerers hobby and has a somewhat steep leaning curve, unless you want to buy a 5k ready to go printer... but all of what I listed usually comes in preset software profiles. So you're not starting from scratch by any means. The settings above are just tweaks based off the defaults that I found worked best for my printer with this particular dickbutt model. I've bought 3 printers, and all of them printed decent quality out of the box with no modifications, so it really depends on how much you want to perfect a print when it comes down to settings.
If you're at all interested in getting into the hobby, this is the one I started with, and even though I have a printer with a foot squared printing area, I still use it all the time: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Select-Printer-Heated-Filament/dp/B01FL49VZE
imprimanta 3d? un magazin romanesc care se ocupa de imprimate si "consumabile" ? am gasit pe amazon ceva
Hi there! I'm looking to explore 3D printing, because it interests me. I'd be a hobbyist. Maybe make youtube videos out for fun or something like that. The biggest thing to me is that I don't have an engineering background, so friendly, obvious, accessible interface is the single most important thing to me.
Let me put it this way, affordable is a plus to me, but I'm willing to give on price if it buys me a printer that's easier for me to use as an amateur. Let me says this . . . NO MORE than a thousand.
Printing trinkets, maybe models. I don't have any intention of making parts for heavy use.
Must be assembled. Building one sounds terrible to me.
Just to be clear, I've got one in mind. But there's no way for me to really grasp the range of options without using one.
I was looking at the:
Monoprice Select Mini 3D Printer
It's this one on Amazon. Feedback?
$220 printer with great reviews
Not OP, but something like this can be done by even a beginners 3d printer using PLA filament (the most common type of filament). A single D&D miniature costs anywhere from $0.05 to $0.15 on average in my experience. The tiles would be around the same, just depends on how much infill you use on them to make them more solid.
EDIT: Check out http://fatdragongames.proboards.com/thread/3340/started-3d-printing . These guys are great, though I recommend a http://www.prusa3d.com/ as the best printer. They estimate an average wall section costs $0.45, so a bit more than I'd originally guessed.
There's a review with a red and black robot that you'll want to look at. Seems to be a great printer for only costing $200.
Here's the link https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Select-Printer-Heated-Filament/dp/B01FL49VZE/
I don't own it(yet) but the Monoprice Select Mini has gotten rave reviews for it's price/performance ratio. I hope to be an owner soon.
OK - the 1st one lists itself as a CR-10 S5, which has a 500x600x500 build area. What is listed is the base CR-10 with a 300x300x400 build area. It's also NOT the "S" version which has lots of upgrades: mainly a filament sensor, a second motor for the z axis and has a Atmega 2560 instead of Atmega 1280 for the controller board.
The 2nd one lists itself as a base CR-10 and by all appearances seems to be one.
Seeing how a CR-10 sells for $499 on Amazon, this seems to be a good deal. You'd have to look at the eBay vendor's feedback to see if they are delivering what they advertise. It seems like the $400 price isn't out of the range of what they cost coming straight from China, but is on the low end so be careful.
Honestly, I'd strongly recommend getting the CR-10S as they upgrades, especially the board, are well worth it. They sell on Amazon for $599 https://www.amazon.com/HICTOP-Printer-Filament-Monitor-300x300x400mm/dp/B074QLQSQV and the Hictop is a solid build as far as CR10S go. You cold probably find a better deal on one from overseas.
If that price is too steep for you, and you are OK with a smaller bed size the Monoprice Select Mini is another good starter printer. For $220 you get a heck of a lot of printer: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Select-Printer-Heated-Filament/dp/B01FL49VZE
I bought a Monoprice Select Mini last week, and it's currently just under $200 (I could have saved $25 if I waited until today) and I've been pretty happy with it. The build area is a 120mm (4.7") cube, so should be fine for your small projects. It ships almost fully calibrated; all I needed to do was adjust the height of the build plate.
It can print via either USB or MicroSD (card included, but no adapter). The recommended slicer is Cura, a version of which comes on the MicroSD card or can be downloaded for free.
I've had a few problems, but I attribute most of them to my inexperience with settings and build surfaces rather than to the printer itself. My only issue with the printer is that it's controlled by a button/wheel combination that's awkward to use.
So long as the 120mm size isn't too small for your paintball projects, I'd recommend it. Though admittedly it's the only 3D printer I've used, so I don't know how it compares to others.
This is the printer I own:
It's very affordable and prints with really impressive detail.
The downsides would be that it's not very fast, the build size isn't huge, and it does almost require some modifications in order to prolong its life, but I've had almost no issues with it in the 8 months I've had it. It's definitely a great starter printer if you're looking to get into it!
Amazon, last week.
As far as I can tell, there isn't an X or Y move command.
I just have the stock one right now - I haven't looked into modding at all so far. Here's the amazon link for my version. Apparently it's the second release?
When it happened to me I put in XT60 connectors and I figured while I was at it I'd install a MOSFET.
Guide I based my replacements on;
MOSFET I installed;
BIQU Heat Bed Power Module Expansion Hot Bed MOS Tube for 3D Printer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HEQVQAK?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
It's ridiculously easy to do the mod and not that expensive (<$15). Unless you plan not to ever take your eyes off the machine, I suggest you do the mod. Even the time period you take for a bathroom break can be dangerous. My connector started smoking/melting and melted a bit of my board while I was waiting for the printer to preheat as I went out of my room to grab some water to drink.
All you have to do is remove the wires going to the bed from the labelled connector and attach it to the side of the mosfet that says hot bed, attach the smaller wires to the labelled connector and using another bit of high gauge wire that you can get from Home Depot/Lowes/local hardware store to connect it to a 12v(+) terminal on the power supply and another to the (-) terminal. All this is done with a screw driver and the included allen keys.
Or just get this all in one kit to make it even easier.
There are a couple ones I've seen in tutorials: I used this, but seen some youtubers use this.
I went with this
this standoff made to fit that mosfet may be of interest as well.
I ordered two of them, one is operating just fine on the A8 for the past 6 months or so. The other one is the topic of this conversation.
Ha: Reading that listing again, it says 15 amps max. I guess there is my answer.
Amazon, here's one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HEQVQAK/ref=ya_st_dp_summary?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I know this may seem like a silly question but it is nearly impossible without any knowledge to search for these connectors online. I am referring to the white connector with the cable installed. It looks similar to a JST but slightly different. Look at the link. This is a heatbed mosfet and I need to replace the cable due to a printer redesign. If anyone knows the style of connector I would be very grateful. The wire is about 20 gauge. Here's a link to the product page, I couldn't find any info there.
It’s actually marble! Looks great and hides some small imperfections
ZIRO 3D Printer Filament PLA 1.75mm Marble Color 1KG(2.2lbs) - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IIAC2MW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Y05iDbDAKXX8T
I use this one
ZIRO 3D https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IIAC2MW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_85VDDbFFE022X
I'm a connoisseur of purple.
Other than that, I enjoy Ziro Marble and Proto-Pasta Teal.
If it's the one that's been being used for other posts, Ziro marble PLA https://www.amazon.com/ZIRO-Printer-Filament-1-75mm-Marble/dp/B01IIAC2MW
I've been using the snap-in version for a couple of weeks now, and have no problem at all. This is the plastic I used. It may be a little rougher than average, which could help.
Here's a link for Amazon (not affiliate) to the stuff I got:
Silk Gold 3D Printer PLA Filament 1.75 mm 1 KG (2.2 LBS) Spool 3D Printing Material CC3D Shine Silky Shiny PLA Metal Gold Like Metallic PLA Filament https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XRPYXP2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_eCTQCbJT0C24S
Printed a Sleeping Beauty's crown for my wife.
3D Printer Filament PLA 1.75 mm... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XRPYXP2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
It is this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XRPYXP2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This is the gold PLA I used:
For the glass bed I recommend getting a borosilicate glass. It’s that the old Pyrex is made of. Resist heat differences without shattering. Here’s the link of the one I got. 130mm x 160mm Borosilicate Glass Plate Bed Flat Polished Edge w/ Corners Cut for 3D Print https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075XJ5ZP1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_tn7G8jRd96iU2
I had this happen on mine. Scrape it off the best you can and use Goo-Gone to purge the remaining adhesive. Once you have a clean metal bed, painters tape works great and is cheap and easy to replace. If you are feeling up to it, you can install a glass bed on top of the metal like I did, just make sure to level the bed right if you do because the glass adds extra space. Then use a purple glue stick for some extra adhesion if you need it!
Here is the link to the bed I am using, and I am completely satisfied so far -> https://www.amazon.com/Borosilicate-Polished-Corners-Monoprice-Select/dp/B075XJ5ZP1/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549203064&sr=8-1-fkmr2&keywords=monoprice+mini+v2+glass+bed
>oes stick hella hard if you use a glue stick, but when I've used no glue and PLA, then let the print cool down, it slides off with no effort
So something like that? Id prefer to do as little mods as possible but im noticing glass it defiantly needed as the prints are hard to get off.
I had good luck with this glass with the corners pre-cut:
Don't forget to get this to help transfer the heat from the aluminum to the glass, also helps as a non-slip surface to help hold the glass in place:
Print off a Z-Spacer (like this one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1808029)Pull off the black mat, clean well with adhesive remover, and install glass. I use this one, which fits perfectly: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075XJ5ZP1/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I've never had great luck getting adhesion straight on glass, but the glass will give you a flat bed. If you have adhesion issues, go with blue tape.
bed wayyyyyy to far from the nozzle. I got tired of dealing with that shit, so I got some borosilicate glass and use a glue stick...
Yep Capricorn often rocks. I am in the U.S. so these links may or may not help.
BLtouch kit https://www.amazon.com/Creality-Upgraded-BLTouch-Leveling-Accessories/dp/B07WK3T7S7/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=bltouch&amp;qid=1574763211&amp;sprefix=bltou&amp;sr=8-2-spons&amp;psc=1&amp;spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzNUtFTUhQUTcwMDc3JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODcyMTkyM0RJVExFMUE4SVMyWiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNDI0MTQ0MTEzOVNSVjZPOTNQQyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX3NlYXJjaF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl
Bigtreetech SKR Mini E3 https://www.amazon.com/BIGTREETECH-Control-TMC2209-Printer-Creality/dp/B07XYW21J3/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=mini+e3&amp;qid=1574763284&amp;sr=8-1
You already have a magnetic bed since you grabbed the pro version. The board I linked is silent , you will be impressed if you get it. The BLtouch makes bed leveling much easier and in my opinion is worth the extra cash. It just makes things easier. The aluminum extruder negates having to worry about the plastic one wearing out. Also look into getting a raspberry pi and running octoprint. That's another must have upgrade as well. Your going to love the Ender 3, enjoy it!!
Check your extruder drive gear. If the gear is turning but the idler wheel isn't, that means there isn't enough pressure on the filament.
Steps to fix:
Though I recommend upgrading to an all aluminum set up like this one.
ANYCUBIC Photon lightning deal in Canada
If the main use will be miniatures, I think the Photon is the way to go. It is currently $320 on Amazon, which is a great price. I make miniature figures and bits and have had the chance to compare my photon prints to stuff from mid-range filament printers, and no one has denied that the resin prints look way better on small scale stuff.
I was worried about the talk about the bad smell, messy processing, etc....but I started with the photon and never looked back. Smell has been a non-issue in my experience and the post-processing isn't problematic or messy after a bit of practice.
The one I got is the Anycubic Photon which from what I could figure is the cheapest functional one that doesn't have reliability issues like leakage (and trust me, the last thing you ever want is the resin leaking, the stuff is horrible if it ever gets anywhere it shouldn't be).
Unlike an FDM you also have to think about ventilation. I printed a 4-inch duct adapter for the printer and got a cheap inline duct fan just so I could vent all the fumes outside. But for what it's worth it has been a lot easier to maintain and get started than any FDM printer I've used, at the cost of more hassle with post-processing and cleaning.
The stats on that machine aren't anything better than what other manufacturers offer. My suggestion? Get either the Anycubic Photon or the Moai.
$450 off Amazon with the instant coupon.
They sell a fully assembled version or the unassembled version MUCH cheaper.
Both of these systems have a large and active community. Both can use a wide variety of resins as well. The Moai has a bigger build plate and should mechanically last longer. Both will require you to replace the FEP film in the Vat. Which I managed to buy two square feet of it from McMaster Carr for $30 shipped. Both will print to the level of detail you need. The print files on the Moai are Gcode and therefore can use open source slucing software, the photon will have to be sliced in their program but prepping can be done elsewhere. The Moai will be slower to print because it uses a laser/galvo vs the Photon's LCD DLP.
I own two machines one of which is a Photon. I plan on purchasing the Moai 200 when it comes out this month as well. If there is anything else I can answer for you just ask!
If you want to print things that small and detailed, you’re going to want to go with a DLP or SLA printer. They use liquid resins instead of a thermoplastic. Something like an Anycubic Photon, a Sparkmaker FHD, a PrusaSL1 (if your willing to wait a few months), or if you have a bigger budget, a Form 2.
I started with the Anycubic Photon. Aside from being fairly cheap, I found it pretty easy to use. I have, however, noticed a tendency for it to unlevel far more often then it claims. I level it every 2-3 prints, but the process only takes a couple minutes.
I also found this video enlightening and it inspired me to be sure I got a little bit of extra equipment.
Anycubic Photon down to $339.49 CAD on Amazon Canada
And $439.99 for the S.
And I just pulled the trigger on one!
It's back at $299 ($339 with a $40 coupon) if you hurry.
This is the first one I got and cost is all relative, for me the 500USD I paid was cheap for what it did. Build one warhammer army and break even on cost. However yes some of them are very expensive.
Set it up and use the existing hotend to print out a z-brace kit, I printed for days without it but it really helps. This will also help you understand and appreciate the difference when you upgrade the hotend :) People run into the connector problem when heating the bed up for ABS and other higher-temp filaments, I have had no issue running PLA. I also never leave the house when it's running, but that's a general distrust of robots thing. Now, with z-braces, allmetal hotend, and a pei sheet, I have had awesome prints every time.
Wanhao i3 Duplicator v2.1 by way of Amazon.
I have two of them, easy to use and improve machine.
Here's a Facebook group dedicated to them.
If you get this printer, this is a highly recommended upgrade. It's a hardened steel nozzle and slotted cooling block kit. Very easy to install, improves holding a given temp in the hot end.
And here is a good deal on filament that's made in America, a grab bag of four rolls for $60, your choice on type.
Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend with SLOTTED Cooling Block for Wanhao i3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E1HANLS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LlgdBbFBW6CVE. This should solve your issue.
Get the microswiss all metal hotend and a glass build plate. Best mods I have done to mine, other than the z-brace
I recently went through exactly this same situation. I was ready to upgrade to a microswiss all-metal hotend and the catastrophic failure of the print leaving gunk all over my heater block forced the issue. In my case, I opted to replace everything I could including the thermistor and heating element. They are both very inexpensive and you should have a spare laying around anyway in case you need one in a hurry. So...how to clean your heating block...
Fire. Seriously. I used a combination of blowtorch and solvent to remove all the gunk (and mine was a LOT worse than yours...it basically encapsulated one entire end of my heater block, entombing the thermistor, heater and associated wiring).
I used your typical propane torch, holding my heater block in a vise or vise grips. I'd heat it up then quickly wipe away the melted PLA with a clean cloth. Heat, repeat. Then I'd soak the whole thing in some solvent (acetone, MEK, etc). Repeat until clean. Pay careful attention to the tiny setscrew that holds the heater in place...work it free with a hex wrench while it is hot...chances are you got some PLA stuck on there, too. Obviously be super careful when you do this. Ventilation, fire-extinguisher handy, your mom on speed-dial.
When you replace the thermistor and heating element you'll need to do some soldering. This is pretty unavoidable. Those elements come with very long wires attached to them and the Wanhao/MP print heat doesn't need that length. Clip it short, make good solders and use heatshrink over your joints. For the thermistor I simply cut out the center section of the wire and spliced the connector back to the component at the length i needed.
Now, when you put it all back together you will have the option of re-wrapping the heater block with cotton and Kapton tape. People seem split on if this is necessary, but since I'd battled heat creep before I didn't want to introduce any more heat up the block...so I opted to do it. It's a bit tricky if you get the non-punched cotton strips like I did. Luckily I had hole punches handy to make the provision for the hotend and nozzle to get thru the insulation. If you don't have these tools (or don't quite know how to do it), i'd shop around for pre-punched sets.
good luck. Let me know if you need any more help.
here are the parts i used:
Had almost the same problem on my Monoprice clone - would stop feeding, changed brands, etc. until finally the filament had fused to the PTFE tube in the hot end. Required a complete tear down to find it. I figured as long as I'm in there, upgrade the extruder plate
and the thermistor
Follow the instructions - do not skip the "tight, then back off 1/4 turn. Heat up to 250 and then tighten the nozzle" steps.
Strip off the Kapton tape (if it hasn't already torn off) and use these instead
Drop the PLA temp to around 203, add minimum layer time to around 15 sec on Cura. Bed also doesn't need to be that hot with the Buildtak
Use cura 15.04 instead of the Cura the V2 shipped with - 15.04 has way more custom options.
I did the blower fan upgrade for my V2.1: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1025471 which helps immensely in overhangs and small details like fingers
Also since your room is cold, consider upgrading your nozzle to all metal: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E1HANLS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
If you choose not to upgrade to all metal, consider using some nozzle insulation: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LAYCRAA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 you will need kapton tape for the insulation
The all metal hot end + insulation will help you maintain consistent temperatures in your cold room
I replaced the stock hotend/PTFE tube setup with an all-metal Micro Swiss hotend ($50):Amazon link to the Micro Swiss all-metal hotend kit: https://amazon.com/gp/product/B01E1HANLS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I printed the parts, and purchased the hardware at Home Depot for the Z-brace mod, which stabilized the printer frame:Thingiverse link for Z-brace mod for I3 Plus: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1653631(note the original Thingiverse link in comments, which is required for the other Z-brace parts: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:921948)
I printed a Dii Cooler in PETG and replaced the stock cooler with one of those 24V "squirrel cage" fans, which provided much better cooling for all sides of my prints. Before that it really only cooled the front of prints, leaving the sides and especially the rear of prints looking pretty bad.Thingiverse link for Dii Cooler for i3 Plus: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1025471
I was actually about to buy This one the day the switch was announced and I decided to get that.
The reviews at the bottom say this is the V1, but it's offered in black and white, so I'm not sure which one this is.
Going to see how low the price can go on Black Friday, but $250ish is a decent price.
Wow, both the V1 and the V2 are out of stock on monoprice.com now. It looks like you can still get the Mini off of Amazon, however. Though for just $50 more you can get a refurbished Maker Select V2 off of Monoprice.
This probably should be in /r/3Dprinting or something, rather than here. This sub is for showing off "useful" prints.
That said, I've heard decent things about the FolgerTech 2020 i3 and Tevo Tarantula.
What I decided to do, though, was get the Monoprice Select Mini and use it to print parts for a D-Bot. I'll resell the MPSM when I'm done.
I wish I could of helped you with your printer as I have the Jr and was able to fix my problems without extensive repairs. It works much better than before and I use other brand filaments. Of course being able to do that depends on the firmware version of the JR.
As far as recommendations I'd look at Monoprice printers:
From my brief research https://smile.amazon.com/Monoprice-Select-Printer-Heated-Filament/dp/B01FL49VZE?sa-no-redirect=1 seems like a very good first 3D printer. But that's way under your budget. So I'm sure for your budget there are hundreds of better ones out there.
SECTION | CONTENT
Title | Monoprice Select Mini 3D Printer Beginner's Guide (Part 1) - Unboxing
Description | Follow along with my written guide here: http://www.thetylergibson.com/3d-printing-for-the-absolute-beginner-monoprice-select-mini-2/ Available from Monoprice directly for $199 + 15-20 dollars shipping http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=15365&amp;AID=11064683&amp;PID=4485850 From Amazon.com for $219 https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Select-Printer-Heated-Filament/dp/B01FL49VZE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478830476&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=mp+select+mini+3d+printer Or from Jet.com for $187 after TRIPLE15 coupon https://jet.com/product/MP-Select-Mini-3D-Printer/6aacb19912cd471b9a4bfa697da6cc24 ------- Owner's Manual link: http://downloads.monoprice.com/files/manuals/15365_Manual_160415.pdf ------- HATCHBOX PLA Filament - https://www.amazon.com/HATCHBOX-3D-PLA-1KG1-75-BLK-Filament-Dimensional/dp/B00J0ECR5I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478830820&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=hatchbox HATCHBOX ABS Filament - https://www.amazon.com/HATCHBOX-3D-ABS-1KG1-75-BLK-Filament -Dimensional/dp/B00J0H8EWA/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1478830820&sr=8-7&keywords=hatchbox Part 2 - Updating the firmware! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cHGF4q46p_M
Length | 0:06:40
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Thats this one right!
It looks pretty professional for that price range. Do you have a recommended software for designing stuff to use with it.
it says the select mini
I read your replies and I see you interested in making this well I know monoprice sells a cheap printer its bed is small tho but it would work and internals could be borrowed from a hs thats all the help I can give
Whats your take on this one?
Gets 4/5 stars on amazon and under $200. I'm really getting and itchy clicking finger.
Or this one
This turned me off also. I ended up buying a Monoprice Mini Select for $200ish and used it to print parts needed to build this larger printer.
I now have 2 printers for the cost of the MKII. I was able to start printing after the 2 day shipping of the Monoprice mini and immediately had a project to start working on. I'm just waiting on a few more parts and my Hypercube will be complete.
They should mark it as such, because people in the Q&A section as well as in the reviews are warning that its the V1.
The monoprice select mini. It's working great so far - we have printed a few miniatures from thiniverse and the details came out great.
I've been looking at printers, mostly the Monoprice select mini (v2? Amazon doesn't specify. Here is the link: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Select-Printer-Heated-Filament/dp/B01FL49VZE) and I want to make sure there isn't a better model that's a bit more expensive. The bed also seems a bit small. My main worry is reliability. I have to ship the printer from the US to South America so if the printer fails or something, I can't have it sent for repairs or buy replacement parts.
What is your price range? I have a limit of 300 dollars but I'm looking to spend a little less
What do you intend to do with the printer? I want to practice my 3d modeling skills so I'll be printing different kinds of models of pop-culture references, for example. I also intend to make some sorts of useful things around the house (coat hangers, organizers, cable clamps, etc). I'd rather have a slightly bigger printer than (15cm)^3
Are you interested in assembling a kit or would you prefer to purchase an assembled printer? I want to purchase an assembled printer that I can buy from Amazon. Otherwise shipping will kill me.
Did you read this FAQ? Yes. I've been reading the FAQ and doing my own research.
Actually there is a cheap 3D printer that I use and works well. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01FL49VZE/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499624882&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=3d+printer&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41UQWp4ToDL&amp;ref=plSrch
Hey guys，im brand new to 3d printing and looking to get my first printer. Im wanting it to make scenery and miniature stuff for wargaming. I would much rather get a pre built one and have found this
Is it any good? Seems pretty good according to ebay. Any advice or tips would be verry much appreciated thanks!
This is the printer I have coming. I'm also trying to see if this is the only print out there for the armour, so far it may be. I did find this one as well, but can't tell if it's only a model and not full size, or if that even matters and can be resized.
Do you have a specific board that you would recommend? This was one I saw linked on thingiverse earlier:
Did anyone of you do the mosfet mod on the msp? I bought this mosfet I am wondering if it will work or will this specific cause more problems? Seeing that most people use a different mosfet for the msp.
Actually, the parts are pretty standard, so it doesn't really matter where you buy from.
I bought them from various sources (electronics markets, amazon, and some local shops), so my links are just to be seen as examples:
There is one small error in the assembly videos: The bed mounting plate (the H-shaped thing) is mounted upside down in the video. The bar that goes across the axes and connects both outer plates should be under the plates, not above as in the assembly videos.
I'll start with the non-printable mods:
Replaced the PSU with a 750w ATX PSU I had lying around.
If you do this, you will more than likely need to add a power resistor to the 5v rail. I also removed all the original wires and connectors from the PSU and resoldered just what I needed with better rated wire.
Glass bed on top of the aluminum. I just went to Lowes and got them to cut a few pieces of single pane glass.
Mosfet circuit for the heated bed:
Upgraded Y Carriage:
Geared Pulley to replace the smooth one:
Upgraded Heated Bed, this bed heats up slow and I also lost a little bit of build volume. I plan on getting something better here very soon. Once it's up to temp it works well though.
Inductive Sensor for auto level:
Copper Tape Because the inductive sensor can't see glass I put this on the bottom side.
To get the sensor working, you'll have to change the firmware unless you only want to use it as a limit switch. The only option that i'm aware of is Skynet which is based on Marlin and works fairly well. You can find that on their facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/skynet3ddevelopment/
Blue LED Extruder Fan (because the original broke). I don't remember where I got this from. I'd like to find an RGB one! ha
I added a bunch of WS2812 LEDs controlled by an Arduino at the moment, I am using OctoPi so eventually i'll have that control them but at this point they're set to UV colors because it looks cool.
Y Carriage Risers:
The Y carriage sits too low and will smack into the Y axis motor so I made these risers to solve that:
Y Belt Clamp: You'll need one for the new carriage, but I cannot find the one that I used.
Auto level bracket: Though I only have PLA and it kept warping so I made a metal version of it:
Anti-Z Wobble I modified this but no longer have the file, I also printed a cylinder to wedge into the hole above the lead screws.
Bearings I used:
Belt Tentioners I can't remember which ones I finally used.
I think this is everything. If I remember something else i'll post it.
I installed this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HEQVQAK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_F7zKBbSQY2CMQ
Few months no problems. Heats up very quickly. Provides very steady temps. Hardest part of doing the mod is getting the board to slide out and not snag a wire.
There are ways to make it cheaper.
A MOSFET (basically a relay that switches the circuit for the heated bed) would be a huge upgrade.
You can flash the firmware of the board with proper security measures in place. Lookup Marlin firmware.
That would be your number one tasks and a huge safety upgrade.
There are lots of tutorials on how to do both.
Yeah, I've been researching the most recommended upgrades and the mosfet is on that list. Is this all I would need for that? or are there additional screws/wires I would need as well?
This specific item would work right? I'm going to attribute the poor reviews and burnt circuits to user error. And I'll be directly wiring the power connections and avoid using the green connectors. Any kind of risk involving fire is too much of a risk.
I believe it's this one: https://www.amazon.com/BIQU-Power-Module-Expansion-Printer/dp/B01HEQVQAK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493406781&amp;sr=8-1
Sounds good. Any recommendations for specific mosfets?
This one is the first one that pops up.
Yeah, maybe my post wasn't clear.
Printer board is an MKS Gen 1.4: https://reprap.org/wiki/File:MksGenV14-Pinout.png
Mosfet board is one of those cheap things from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/BIQU-Power-Module-Expansion-Printer/dp/B01HEQVQAK
This is a DIY printer that started life as an Anet A8, but now is a mix between an AM8 mod (bed and frame) and a Prusa MK3S clone (extruder), all running Klipper and Octoprint.
Currently this external Mosfet is controlled by D7 (the onboard Mosfet output for the second extruder) and powers the bed. The hotend is on D8 (because its Mosfet is a bit beefier), the extruder fan is on D9 and the print fan is on D10.
Filament sensor and BLTouch are on D10 and D6.
I'd like to use D7 to power an enclosure fan, but to do this I need to control the external Mosfet from a different pin, ideally D4 or D5 (which are marked as "servo" pins on the pinout diagram). I've tried various other pins and combinations with +5V and GND and various resistors in between, but I can't get the Mosfet to switch.
Would this one be fine ?
>Any chance you could be more specific on the dupont connectors required?
You'll need 4 pin dupont housings and dupont female connectors and a crimper for them. That's assuming you have something to strip the wires as well. You can find the dupont female pins and housings cheaper places like aliexpress, ebay, etc.. but I recommend buying a quality crimper instead of whatever is the cheapest you can find as a quality tool will make the job a lot easier. If you're really strapped for cash, there's video's of people crimping dupont connectors with pliers online instead of the crimp tool.
>So <motor><cA> => <cB><cable><cC> => <cD><RAMPS board>
The wires transfer over to the same place from melzi to ramps, and pretty much any board. You'll have a X endstop, y endstop, z endstop, then connectors for the X motor Y motor Z motor and extruder motor, and so on and so forth. A ramps guide will help you visualize what to connect where.
>Any idea how big a cable for the power?
IIRC, the stock wires at 18ga, which is fine for the ramps board since it only draws 5A for all the motors, hotend, etc. The only other larger gauge connectors are for the heatbed, which I believe are also stock 18GA. FWIW, I'd go with a external mosfet instead of using the ramps on board ones which are rated for 11A, which is just within spec of what the bed draws.
$10 Mosfet with 2 day shipping: https://www.amazon.com/BIQU-Power-Module-Expansion-Printer/dp/B01HEQVQAK
Fused Switch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
The PSU has a built-in fan that kicks on and off when the PSU gets warm. I don't plan on printing things with any crazy high temperatures, so these upgrades were probably a bit overkill, but I'd rather have components that are a bit more trustworthy than what comes with a $150 kit.
I ordered an A8 and I get it this Sunday. Can you give me some more detail on the 4 things you suggest upgrading?
I looked at flashing the Marlin but do I need any extra cabling to perform the flash?
Do either of these fill the prereqs for the upgrades you mention? I ordered them as they came in a package deal with the printer.
Which power supply should I order? Did I forget to mention anything? I am trying to make sure I buy all of the stuff so I am ready to build on Sunday. I am gonna get a Raspberry Pi 3 for Octoprint as I only currently have a zero W and a Pi 4 available for use.
I bought the Maker Select V2 a few weeks ago, so I'll give you a dump of what I've bought so far:
MOSFET - You'll also need some 14 gauge wire, spade connectors, and something (like velcro) to mount it inside the case.
PEI Sheet - After going through tape/hairspray/glue this is what you'll end up wishing you started with. I bought some standard window glass from a big box store and had them cut it to size. I used the thermal pads at first, but I prefer just clipping it on. This way I can have 4 different glass beds to swap among.
Raspberry Pi 3 - OctoPrint is so much nicer than transferring the sd card back and forth.
Fan - DiiCooler or CiiCooler or a few others you can print out that are compatible with this fan (I think, I haven't finished printing them yet).
Y carriage plate - Not sure what the difference between this and yours is - I haven't installed mine yet).
Also ordered a couple rolls of Inand PLA from MicroCenter online.
Why do that when Amazon Prime has it?
This is the one I use on my Monoprice i3.
Just ran into this while doing a search. I got a v2.1 for Xmas as well.
Have fought many battles, won't go into it here, you'd be reading for hours, LOL!
But I did install the MOSFET upgrade, as well as installing a 300W power supply. One's a safety issue, the other is so I can safely run a higher temp hotend with elevated bed temps. The 200W unit they used is marginal at best (trust me, I'm an Electronics Tech for 47 years...).
Here's the MOSFET board I used:
BIQU Heat Bed Power Module Expansion Hot Bed MOS Tube for 3D Printer (About $11)
and the Power Supply: eTopxizu 12v 30a Dc Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply 360w for CCTV, Radio, Computer Project ($18 - $20, varies)
I also got some cork sheets to put under the hot bed at Michael's called ArtWall Cork Tiles 12:x 12" - used the App and got 40% off cost less then $5! I used some 3M adhesive (468MP) strips stolen from a sheet I got when I bought a Gizmodorks PEI sheet I put on a glass plate stolen from an old Canon scanner that was toast. :-) Recycling ...LOL! Nice thing was it's DEAD flat, and FREE!
Well that's all for now. Any Questions will be answered next time I drop by Reddit (which is pretty infrequently, sorry!).
no problem! it was the first Mod I did on mine after reading that the bed heat connection is the issue with all the burnups.
good write up on the fix
here is the one I got for my maker select v2.1
might need longer wire, i did, just grabbed some at Lowes
Found it! I’m not sure if it’s just a good quality filament or what, but I was really satisfied with the texture.
I'm on mobile, so excuse the formatting:
ZIRO 3D Printer Filament PLA 1.75mm Marble Color 1KG(2.2lbs) - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IIAC2MW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XlOvCbSP4Z69F
I have used Ziro Marble PLA with good results. I have gone through about 1.5 rolls, and it prints just fine.
Haha awesome! I actually tried this first using a special white with black bits PLA filament that creates a sort of marble effect: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01IIAC2MW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nseTAbBMCEK8A
Sadly it must have come unstuck from the bed on the last 20 layers or so (the tip of its nose!). I now use Z-Hop and thicker brims.
ZIRO 3D Printer Filament PLA 1.75mm Marble Color
Here is what i use!
No examples (because I'm at work), but I just unpacked my spool of this:
Based on the box markings, and the same cardboard filament stop, I think it's made in the exact same plant as this Kehuashina filament: https://www.amazon.com/Kehuashina-Filament-Printer-1-75mm-Diameter/dp/B07Q5P9XWS
Prints very VERY well on clean glass. The finish is amazing... pearlecent golden color, just like the example pictures.
Ender 3 Pro, 0.4mm tip with 205C hotend, 75C bed (lowering to 50C after first layer).
I've been experimenting with adjusting my designs to try and print only in "vase mode" (continuous Z-axis shift) to avoid the z-seam. Which is more noticeable on any "silk" type filaments.
You gotta keep it dry. I have a eSun eBox dehumidifier, which I ran for 6 hours before trying to print anything beyond Mr Benchy... my print-bed was measuring 47% humidity this morning due to the non-stop rain. :'(
Here you go!
it's this filament: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XRPYXP2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Well a spool of gold filament costs about $25, I'd charge about $20 to print it, and maybe $6 to ship it. Just so you know this thing is pretty large.....about 3 ft long (after assembled).
Thanks! I printed it in this generic silk gold PLA.
I did my modified side panel on glass.
Specifically fits the bed for the mpsmv2.
I'm considering this one
This is the exact piece I bought
This one might be a bit better:
It specifically says the dimensions fit the MP Select Mini well, and the cut corners clear the adjustment screws. The biggest problem I have with the piece I bought is that I have to hold it in place with binder clips on the edges. In order to not rub on the printer axis parts, you need to take off the binder clip handles, and in order to clear the print head, you need to move them as far towards the edge as you can. So it's a bit of a pain when they happen to pop off from vibration or hitting the print head. The larger piece I linked should mean you can clip from the front and back instead where mechanical interference isn't a problem.
People will say it's dumb to spend $20 on a print surface for a $200 printer, and that you can get away with a piece of frame glass for $1.50 instead. They're right, but it's a pain, and $220 for a printer with an excellent surface doesn't seem like much of a ripoff to me.
This is what I am using
there is a z-spacer on thingiverse, and a glass plate that fits on amazon
For those looking for a glass bed: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075XJ5ZP1/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Borosilicate glass has high heat tolerance and is resistant to rapid heat changes. The one posted here fits perfectly on MPSMv2
I bought the glass off of amazon:
I'm using hairspray on the glass.
with the help of this awesome community, i got this one.... works like a champ..
Sorry I actually replaced the entire drive feed piece, not just the spring.
I got this one but also this other one for our other cr10 because I don't like the stock driver gear.
This was the last resort option for me after I've checked EVERYTHING. Leveling, clean nozzle, different temp/flowrates, different filaments, slower speeds, different slicers, etc. I even swapped consoles and motor steppers with other working cr10s to get down to the issue.
I decided to print vase mode and check the density of the print through a light. For a portion of it I held the spring out so that the gears will grip the filament better. During that portion the print was nice and solid and the other parts it was very see through and some layer separation. That was the final call that got me the new drive gear.
Ok seems it was $20.
Someone recommended this https://www.amazon.com/HICTOP-Upgraded-Replacement-Aluminum-Extruder/dp/B0761PGLZ4 in a reddit comment.
Since I was at that moment testing a calibration cube at 135% flow rate and still seeing random under extrusion I figured. Why not?
just barely mounted it last night so haven't done much printing.
Apart from a cube and a cable catcher that failed.
But the layer lines are excellent compared to before.
I think it might be an extruder problem because it only affects about 5 percent of the layers, probably more likely that the extruder slips and then recatches rather than the nozzle clogging and unclogging itself right? and if so would this be a good idea to fix it?
Here you just need one of these. Those plastic extruders feeds will eventually development a groove from the filament dragging and will cause what you are talking about. This is the same one I bought no problems since.
HICTOP Upgraded Replacement Aluminum MK8 Extruder Drive Feed for Creality 3D Printer Ender 3/3Pro CR-10, CR-10S, CR-10 S4, and CR-10 S5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0761PGLZ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_IFPNDb5XJEYWF
This might work, but it's a different style. Amazon has these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0761PGLZ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Zg4LDbB1BRRG0 which are the same style, but aluminum.
I got this one and it's working great: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0761PGLZ4
That's a real bummer :( it sounds like it needs a shim, or to be returned and replaced. I bought this one and other than needing an additional m3 screw to hold the spring in place (I think I just lost the other one during the install) it's worked flawlessly. I also picked up a set of stainless extruder gears. Together these parts are performing flawlessly. not a great example, but it was dark when I took the picture.
Ah thanks. Have you tried the aluminum extruder drive feeder mod ?
I found this one after doing a search for an hour tonight on different websites: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0761PGLZ4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A2UHE58S2974CT&psc=1
After cleaning out my bowden tube between the tube itself and the nozzle, and removing the gunked up crud as well as trimming the end of the bowden tube where some filament was partially blocking, I put everything back together as it should be and set another test print for last night. I used the same model I had printed somewhat successfully but changed the following:
.2 less on wall thickness
10% less on density
10 added to Print speed
40 added to Travel speed
10% less on support density
And unfortunately, alittle more than halfway through the print this happened:
This morning I pulled apart the bowden tube and nozzle again to check for that problem from before but this time everything was fairly clear, no gunk in between tube and nozzle. At this point, I think it may be the extruder or possibly even something to do with the feeding of the filament spool itself since it seems to be a problem occuring around the same height everytime. I ordered an upgraded extruder [aluminum body] and better bowden tube this morning. Has anyone else noticed this kind of problem occurring consistently around the same height?
Yeah I've already upgrade to an all aluminum extruder.
Out of curiosity, which one are you using?
This guy: here super cheap and helps the printer grab onto the filament a little bit more. I noticed that mine would sometimes slip during retractions. I'd also make sure you are using the little clips that hold the ptfe tight into the coupler. Excess play here can also cause issues
Is that this model? This is the lowest I’ve seen them ($399):
ANYCUBIC Photon UV LCD 3D Printer Assembled Innovation with 2.8'' Smart Touch Color Screen Off-line Print 4.53"(L) x 2.56"(W) x 6.1"(H) Printing Size
I would get this.. I sill might.. Yeah :) I most likely will.
Did I miss something? Shows $300 for me..
Then you'll want to learn something like sculptris.
I just found out about this today, it might be appropriate for you if you want to keep costs down. Traditional FDM printers (what most people have) are better for engineering parts. The only other printer I can think of would be the Form 2/3, which is 2-3k.
Hey all, Im looking to get back into 3d printing. I used to own the Davinci 2.0, great device but it needed a lot of patience. I had to give it up, loved the size and quality of prints werent bad. The bed was always off an axis and its really a full time hobby.
To the point, Im looking to spend the least possible but my max is around 500. I dont mind building. NYC. Mostly use for parts of my dioramas 12th scale to 64 scale and some figures like boats, cars, hats, guns, maybe even cosplay peices like guns haha.
What type of filament should i use? Id probably prefer resin but I dont mind if someone else recommends something greater. Ive been eyeing thephoton, especially at 358 right now.
Around $540. You can get it on amazon for $540 but you can also get them on ebay or aliexpress. Anycubic usually has one up for auction every week on ebay and I've seen them sell for $450-$480.
I like the fact that the photon doesn't need to be tethered like the D7 does (unless you spend extra on the control box) though there are a few other advantages like the clear panels to see inside, linear rails rather than rods. The main advantage of the D7 I have seen is the ability to control it using a raspberry pi and, it's more easily modified, and has a taller build volume.
Shows in stock for me: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078N2TSYS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Dpl7BbN1082HA
Can this resin printer handle it? https://www.amazon.ca/Monoprice-Resin-Printer-Resolution-Photopolymer/dp/B07BQ2JYLP/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=SLA+Printer&qid=1558029877&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1
or this one? https://www.amazon.ca/ANYCUBIC-Assembled-Innovation-Off-line-Printing/dp/B078N2TSYS/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=anycubic+photon&qid=1558033050&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1
Prices are quite different but I don't know how they differ in practical applications.
Hey it looks like you're familiar with 3D printing, so you might already know this, but I have an application for this product that has nothing to do with paint!
With resin / SLA printing, there is a bath of resin that is cured with light. This resin can get dust and environmental debris in it, which will cause prints to fail. Also, if there's a problem with a print, you'll get lots of half-cured resin bits floating around.
The expensive resin then needs to be strained so that the entire bath isn't wasted.
The advice from manufacturers is to go buy paint straining equipment! I've done it, and it works, but this comes will all the same problems that straining paint has- it kinda sucks. A screen mesh that sits snug on top of a can would do wonders.
My unsolicited advice here is that you could actually sell a near-identical product, under an entirely different brand name, on a different web site, to capture this small-but-not-negligible market. Would be the most useful if you bundled it with empty paint cans, too.
I think the most popular SLA printers are made by Formlabs, but there's also cheaper stuff coming out that does a pretty good job as well, like the Anycubic Photon.
theres photon on amazon sale
Are you using US amazon? I see 16 in stock (Prime) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078N2TSYS/
The Photon seems to have pretty good reviews on Amazon.com and reviews elsewhere all seem to be better than average considering the more complicated processes involved. I have been following both printers since release (just ordered a Photon last week) and it has had far less issues than the D7 did on release (which I didn't buy for that reason). Both printers seem to have about the same overall quality control now from following their Facebook groups etc. I have mixed opinions on how the D7 is constantly fixing things and releasing revisions (current printer version is 1.5). It seem great they are improving it but I would not want to buy one and then have to spend $125 a few months later on an upgrade kit to fix issues.
Check that the screw that holds the spring arm on your extruder hasn't backed out. The first time I encountered this problem my prints looked exactly like yours and it took me a couple days to figure it out. It will keep happening too, unless you change out the extruder. It's because you can't have that screw too tight or the arm won't apply pressure. So because it's a little loose, it will slowly work out over time, and there's not very many threads engaged in that hole, so the screw can wobble around.
The cheapest fix would be to install an all-metal replacement for around $13. If you look closely at the link I posted, you'll see that the spring arm has an insert for the screw that will allow you to tighten the screw all the way down but still allows the arm to rotate. I haven't had to re-tighten that screw since I installed it. It works great. Also, if you take a 5/32" drill bit and drill out the hole on the arm itself, you can insert a short piece of teflon tubing into it that will protect the filament from the leadscrew. You can just use a regular wood bit and hand drill. Aluminum drills super easy.
Ended 3 official 1.1.5 from here. All mainboard settings are stock.
Aluminum extruded from here.
Capricorn tubing from here.
Cura 4.1 on Linux
Filament at 210 on hotend, 60 on bed.
Do you have this upgrade?
CHPOWER CR-10 Extruder Upgraded Replacement, Aluminum MK8 Drive Feed 3D Printer Extruders for Creality Ender 3, CR-10, CR-10S, CR-10 S4, CR-10 S5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JZ374W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HH5HDbJQ21BKB
That fixed my problem, tensioner stays very tight now
I’m not logged in on mobile, 95% sure this is it. The only weird thing you need to do: break the lock tite seal on the knurled gear on the stepper [to get it off]. Otherwise you need to buy a special replacement bearing for the one that comes stock in the kit(dunno which one).
Can't speak to whether others have better/worse build quality, but this one's worked for me. I did keep the original screws/metal parts instead of what came with the new one.
Ah my bad, wrong thread, this one
This is the one that I got: Title of link (optional) I got a metal extruder housing as well but I honestly don't think it's necessary, just nifty.
There is an all metal extruder. Here's an Amazon link to a popular one that I was thinking of getting before I figured out my problem.
Anyone got any others?
I am a big fan of yours, would love to help, but some more info would be needed.
I know you say FDG profile, but some things in those profiles are also kinda fluid and need to be adjusted by you. So in particular, what is your print temperature? What are your retraction settings?
One simple fix which would likely give you some improvement would be to upgrade your bowden tube to a smoother PTFE Tube which causes less friction on the filament and therefor reduces stringing.
Oh I know. I recently replaced mine with a Capricorn Bowden PTFE tube from Amazon. They give you enough to do about 2 or 3 tube swaps.
i think you forgot this?
This seems to be the one everyone uses, and I also have this installed on both of my printers.
All 3 as they are really cheap.
I bought some of this bowden tubing : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079P92HN9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for my Wanhao Duplicator clone. I think it makes a difference. (Definitely touches hot end and nozzle in this printer)
Here's my favorites!
Filament standoff arm to keep it from pulling straight down
And Complimentary filament guide:
Ribbon Cable Clips:
I added an SD card ribbon because the micro SD location and size Sucks!
Fan cover to get rid of upwards draft, and keep little bits of filament out of the fan:
Immediately replace that crappy Plastic extruder with any metal one off amazon.
Capricorn Bowden Tube:
Powder Coated PEI Magnetic Build sheet! (Priceless!)
Change your fans over to Noctua fans, and the printer becomes nearly silent. (amazon)
I got an EZABL bed leveling kit. Doing BL Touch soon, but The EZABL has pre-configured firmware, which made life easy!
Raspberry pi zero W or 3B+ with octoprint is a must!
These got me into sexy print land pretty quick!
List of mods on my Ender 3 Pro:
I use Cura for my slicer, and use the default setting there for the Ender 3.
Meanwell power supply:
Ferrules and crimper:
Stepper smoothers (3-pack):
Capricorn PTFE tubing:
Performance 3-D MK8 Apollo 0.4mm extruder nozzle:
Glass bed (appears to be produced by creality), ebay seller usbkits :
Aluminum drive feed, ebay seller creality-3d-direct :
***the tube fitting in this kit did not work well, so I used the fitting from the stock creality assembly and it worked fine.
Here's the extruder: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B96QMN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uSFjDbRH4ZQE4
Here's the springs: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GXC1G2B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DTFjDb1KAPZ15
There's tons more. All you need to do is search Amazon. Glad I could help.
I have this one:
The spring that came with it was too weak and so filament was slipping.
Get a all metal extruder top like this: https://smile.amazon.com/3D-Extruder-Aluminum-Filament-Creality/dp/B07B96QMN2
If you don't mind spending, consider just moving over to a direct drive setup like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omXgJT5V0D4
Would you recommend getting the upgraded aluminum extruder parts (like this one)? And could you explain what you mean by "spring tensioners"?
I had the exact same problem with mine as well. Swapped out to an all metal extruded with a stronger spring.
Here's the aluminum extruder assembly. The plastic one that comes on the printer WILL break. It's just a matter of time. They crack from stress after a while and even before that they creep and you'll start getting missed extrusion.
Here's the stiffer bed springs. You won't have to compress these as much to get a good stiffness.
Another really popular upgrade is this glass build plate. It has a special coating that makes it so parts stick without adhesive, and it leaves a really smooth surface on your prints. Parts stick really well then when it cools down they self-release.
The 3 upgrades I linked are extremely popular upgrades. You can get by without the glass bed, it's just an option because the stock bed will wear out eventually.
Here's the extruder I bought
And here's the bowden tubing and connectors
There's a lot of similar items on Amazon that will work; I just personally went after the popular ones with the highest reviews
Also, if you get the tubing, don't forget to get cutters if you don't have any already
Got my printer in Jan, so still pretty new. I started having the same issue after doing a really long print. After messing with it for a few days and not getting anywhere I ended up replacing the entire extruder block with an all metal one. (
I feel like getting that gear off is going to be important, not sure i can give any advice as to how to get that off the motor shaft, but you will need to remove the gear to replace the block.
I think I only paid about $14 for it. But that's too much. I've seen it elsewhere for less than 1/2 that price.
Hey, thanks for the info. Can you link to the item? I'm not able to find one on Amazon that appears to be sold by Creality. There's this one, but it appears to be sold by "Comgrow." I'm just leery of getting ripped off.
I've had an Anet A6 (similar) for just over 2 years now, and (after a lot of tuning) I've been able to use it for applications that require a fair bit of dimensional accuracy. I have a RAMPS 1.4 setup with Skynet, a mosfet for the bed, and that's about it. As long as you take care of it, you should be able to get some pretty darn good prints out of it. I unfortunately don't have a picture of it, but a while ago I was able to make a nice looking desk ornament that looks sort of like this with no weird artifacts popping up or even support. So, you could feasibly use your A8 for making tabletop figurines.
However, I actually prefer printers that use extruded aluminum frames like the Tarantula, Ender 3, and HE3D IE3, since its really easy to print attachments for mods that fit nicely into the t-slots of the aluminum bars. You can even get an Ender 3 on Amazon for $230. I've never owned or used one before, but I've heard from many that they work pretty well even out of the box.
https://www.amazon.com/Comgrow-Creality-Ender-Aluminum-220x220x250mm/dp/B07BR3F9N6/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=3d+printer+ender+3&amp;qid=1566528720&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-4#customerReviews This guy right here? Also does it come with spools?
And how much does one spool make?
I got it in Amazon maybe a week ago for $170 though it was a daily deal.
This is the one I got
I had a Makerbot Replicator 2 that the former tech teacher used before it got commandeered for the makerspace.
I tried to do homologous bone structures also but I couldn't find any good models so I had to scrap that lesson and do it the old fashioned way.
Once you get a hang of 3D printing, it's really easy and really cool. I would suggest, however, that you put the printer in a strictly "no students" section of your room. They're very finicky and the prints take hours, so one student going over to "look" at it could mess up the print and you'd have to start it all over. Some of the skulls I printed took 8 hours.
I would maybe wait for a v3 or a little more time for people to consume this before you PAY to have it printed. Before I got a 3D printer myself I spent about $150 getting a stock printed for my rift.
I had no idea what I was doing or talking about, in general the service I used worked well. There are job sites, you submit the files and a person with a 3D printer through the site signs up and jobs out the print. The people are helpful and know what they are doing, but again, I recommend waiting a little bit before paying to get this printed.
Although, I will continue to work off this platform so if you get the base stock printed, you can have redesigned paddles printed and they will fit this platform. But if other people take this concept and redesign something crazy, you will want their version, not mine.
I am a mediocre CAD designer, I have the concept, but am limited with my ability and time. But I will rework this at least one more time and again, I spent $150 on the stock to have it 3D printed by a job website. An Ender 3 full 3D printer Kit is $200. You could buy the Ender 3 for $50 more than it is to job the print out and you will have yourself a 3D printer.
Amazon link for Ender 3 as an example
I have been looking into 3d printing and decided the best place to start would be with an ender3 so that I would be able to have quality prints, for a reasonable price. However, looking on several websites there are different prices and I am just not sure which one would be best to go for.
Amazon has the ender-3 from Comgrow for $230 here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BR3F9N6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2ALB3RMNIRLH8&psc=1
However, it says the official one, again for $230 is here: https://www.amazon.com/Official-Creality-3D-Printer-Source/dp/B07D218NX3/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?keywords=creality&qid=1569107314&s=gateway&sr=8-3-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExWjJVQlE0MjhKMEQ2JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODU2MjU2MzNSMTQ2SlFGUjg1OCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwODA4ODAzMldSNTRQMDZOTzBXQyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
I also found a website listing it on sale for $189 here: https://www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_1845898.html?
I got the last link from Maker's Muse video and I am just very confused. I do not want to spend more money than I need to as filament is also rather expensive.
Any help would be appreciated, I really want to get it for the cheapest price without it coming in damaged or in a month.
Download Blender and Fusion 360 to try designing. Tinker CAD is also great but a little elementary for my taste. Fusion is great since it has alot of the features of a full CAD program and lots of videos to learn. Ita free too (Have to download it, then click on your name and select that your not making any money off the software to get it for free).
I've heard good things about this printer, but look up what upgrades people recommend before purchasing.
Besides coming pre-assembled, what advantages does this have over an Ender 3 (in terms of what it can do)? I've found the Ender 3 on Amazon for $72 less than the Monoprice Maker Select Plus.
Edit: Found the Ender 3 on Creality's website for $194.99 for the next five days (before returning to original price of $309.99).
Edit: Turns out I'm bad at finding actual sites. This is a reseller.
This is my first time considering to purchase a 3D printer for the purposes of 3D printing D&D Miniatures and Terrain & other stuff! (mostly terrain) I have a budget of at least $350.
Should I go with the Anycubic Mega I3 or Creality Ender 3D?
I heard the bed of Enders 3 requires some frequent levelling...is that too much of a hassle? Would the I3 have similar issue?
Also plan to use it in an apartment....should it be printing in an open space like the living room or in an open bedroom?
Hey friend, if you're looking for a cheap reliable printer you might consider an Ender 3. I think, at the moment, that printer will likely give you the best for your buck.
I'd say Amazon. They're all from China in the end/beginning, but Amazon is pregnant the best.
This seems to be the best reviewed at a good price https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07BR3F9N6
Creality Ender 3 for £153 (Saving of around £40) Only good for the next hour on Lightning Deals.
Edit: Time of posting 20:34 GMT
Ok you guys convinced me to switch! This is the one, right?
Comgrow Creality Ender 3 3D Printer Aluminum DIY with Resume Print 220x220x250mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BR3F9N6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.dE3Bb0QXC0S8
Comgrow Creality Ender 3 3D Printer Aluminum DIY with Resume Print 220x220x250mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BR3F9N6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9h77CbV9CCFKR
Note: i am unsure of the quality of this particular printer
I was originally going to buy an ender 3 as my first 3d printer. I have zero experience but after lurking here a bit I thought I knew what to buy. However amazon currently has some good deals on some of these printers. so my options are now:
Ender 3: $229.99
Monoprice Maker Select v2: 239.99
Ender 3 pro : $259.99
Monosprice Maker Select Plus: $289.99
I'm sort of leaning toward the Maker Select v2. But having no experience I'm hoping you guys will know better. I don't think building an Ender kit would be an issue, but for my first one I think Monoprices may be easier. I'm mostly looking to start with some minis and maybe randon little knick-knack type things. Although I think this may be something I get really into down the line, so as long as they're versatile I will probably build anything and everything I can :-p
Having printed a LOT of these tiles, I would caution against relying on a public library as a resource.
These things take a LONG time to print enough to make an entire dungeon. It's unreasonable to assume that the librarian would be willing to allow you to continuously print that many. (I will easily print almost 24/7 for weeks at a time to complete a set)
That being said, they are very cool tiles... and it's unbelievable that they are offered for free, Devon Jones is the man, for sure!
I would greatly advise looking into purchasing your own printer... my pick for this would be an Ender 3. Check out some videos on YouTube, and join the Facebook user group to get a good idea of how to get started. The printers aren't that much, about $230 USD on Amazon right now... and it will be worth it in the long haul to invest.
As far as your attachment method, the bases can be magnetic... but the magnets do end up costing a lot if you use them in all the tiles... I quit doing this after a few sets.
The OpenLock design is based on an attachment type by printablescenery.com, and most of the files you find on Thingiverse.com will be based on this. It's pretty cheap, as you only use filament to print them, and they hold well.
The "grip liner" as you put it is a decent idea, but I don't think it would hold up to practical use, some of the tiles have seperate floor and wall tiles, which need to be glued together with the base to form the finished project. Also, they would like be a bit "janky".
Hopefully this advice helps. It is a fun world to get into, and though there is a lot to learn it can be rewarding.
I went with this Ender 3
Then I bought the glass bed separately because the bed that came with it was crap.
There's limits to how precise FDM can get. Well, less a limit on the precision and more on resolution. There's a Maker's Muse video that covers this very well. You could probably just put a smaller diameter nozzle on an Ender 3 and do pretty well with some longer print times.
But if you really want to go incredible precision and stay exclusively small scale (and have a well ventilated space) I would recommend the Anycubic Photon. SLA blows the precision of FDM out of the water.
Hey guys, I'm extremely new to 3d printing and after viewing various reviews and comparison videos I think I'm going to get the Ender 3. I am ok with getting a Kit.
I'm from Ireland and saw this one for sale on amazon:
Is this ok to go ahead an purchase? Is there any thing I should be aware of? I saw comgrow was just a creality reseller from another reddit thread and everyone was happy with that aspect.
It's incredibly cool to be able to download a 3d image offline and hold it in your hands in a very short amount of time, very small learning curve! DO IT!
I'd suggest getting this printer. It's cheap and makes great prints!
Looking to buy my own printer for whatever comes my way. I like to 3d print random stuff I make or things i find online from moving parts to figures. Was looking around amazon and saw this [Comgrow Creality Ender 3](Comgrow Creality Ender 3 3D Printer Aluminum DIY with Resume Print 220x220x250mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BR3F9N6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XxgODbQCRC3R1) but also found [this](Comgrow Creality Ender 3 Pro 3D Printer with Removable Build Surface Plate and UL Certified Power Supply 220x220x250mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GYRQVYV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GzgODbTQ6ZNAJ) which looks identical for a higher price. I don't see a difference. My budget would be around 300 to 400ish. I'm looking for one that'll either be enclosed or be easy enough to enclose since I'll be in a college dorm, so I don't want my roomate to be bothered by the smell if left alone. Any wireless features would be neat, but I'm fine with plugging my laptop and leaving it there. The more safety features or safer in general it is, the better.
Here you go ended 3
There actually already are quite a few sales on atm. Online retailers like extending sales the entirety of the weekend to make more profits. $221 w/$15 off coupon Ender 3(partially assembled) that being said there are lots of printers out there that can work pretty well for similar.
I am looking to get into the world of 3D Printing. I was looking at this from Amazon I was also looking at this (I would love some input on this if someone is willing to give it)
This is the one I bought. In stock still as of this posting.
Hey, my birthday is coming up in a couple of weeks and I was trying to think of something to ask for when a 3D printer crossed my mind. I've always thought they were pretty cool and I have a bunch of ideas for stupid little stuff to print out.
The only issue is that I know absolutely nothing about them and what I should be looking for in one or even if it's worth it for me to get one anyway. I don't mind having to put one together myself since it looks like that's the case with a lot of them after a quick Amazon search (very precise, I know).
My budget is under $300 and I'm in the US. I did find this one and it looks like it's pretty deece but want the experts to give me an educated opinion on it. [It's this one right here](https://www.amazon.com/Comgrow-Creality-Printer-Upgrade-Certified/dp/B07GYRQVYV?ref_=Oct_BSellerC_6066127011_1&pf_rd_p=471a90b9-8a34-5dd9-a6f0-17598d2f0fae&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_i=6066127011&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=P83BAX28P3Y3BW4VJ6YZ&pf_rd_r=P83BAX28P3Y3BW4VJ6YZ&pf_rd_p=471a90b9-8a34-5dd9-a6f0-17598d2f0fae)
I just plan on using it to print out cool stuff others post online but may take a crack on designing my own stuff eventually. Nothing too big or fancy. Like I said before, I know what 3D printers are but that's about it, lol. I'm just hoping someone here can point me in the right direction.
Comgrow Creality Ender 3 Pro 3D Printer with Removable Build Surface Plate and UL Certified Power Supply 220x220x250mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GYRQVYV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_T4WxDbRVFW44B
I have this one too
Official Creality Open Source CR-10 3D Printer All Metal Frame 12x12x15.5 Inch Build Volume and Heated Bed Includes Glass Bed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LG2K55Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_w5WxDbQ11Q2XH
ADIMLab Gantry 3D Printer 90% Assembled 310X310X410 3D Printing Size with 24V15A Power Heat Bed Glass Control Box Filament Detector, Nozzle Light, Modifiable to Upgrade to Auto Leveling https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CPQQ57D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_r6WxDbR5B2PCQ
All pretty good units
Well if you ever end up with an extra 260 dollars you should consider getting the Ender 3 Pro.
and if you run into problems the ender 3 subreddit is always there /r/ender3/
I was just bout to post asking if this is good. Buy sounds like I need to check out ender.
Kit: Sure, experienced with electronics and soldering
Uses: looking to print mechanical keyboard parts (cases, keycaps, etc) and anything else I might need to print parts for.
I'm currently looking at a few different printers and most are from Creality. The Ender 3 and Ender 3 pro specifically are what I'm going for. What's the best place to actually buy one though? There's a ton of different sites with different prices and it's pretty overwhelming.
There's the one from eBay supposedly direct from the seller for $237
Amazon from Comgrow (?) for $279
And straight from Creality (I think) for $259
I'm leaning towards buying directly from the seller because I've read some things about the warranty not being fulfilled directly from creality if you buy from another source.
Other ones I'm looking at are the da Vinci 1.0 pro, regular Ender 3, or any other really. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I’m not sure about that one, but I just bought this one : https://www.amazon.com/Comgrow-Creality-Printer-Upgrade-Certified/dp/B07GYRQVYV 2 weeks ago and it has the 1.1.4 board, removable magnetic bed, it may have had thermal runaway protection out of the box, but I flashed the newest marlin firmware to get some other options, so I know I have it now.
Budget: soft limit of $400, hard limit of $600
Assembly is fine
Features needed: just looking for a general purpose printer. I'm a beginner so I'm not too picky. Looking at the Ender 3 Pro or the Prusa Mk3
Is this the right one? If not, where should I get it?
Hello everyone, I am currently in the market for my first 3D printer, and was hoping to get some advice on what printer would best fit my needs. I would like to spend no more than 300 USD max, and I live in Wisconsin in the United States. I am willing to build a printer from a kit, and I have limited electronics experience (though I am very willing to learn and my brother has a lot more experience). With the printer I would like to print a variety of things, such as pieces for props I am making, a lightsaber, probably some miniatures for DnD, and any other stupid things I can think of and design. I don’t really have any extenuating circumstances. Currently I am looking at 3 different printers, all around the same price:
Monoprice Maker Select V2: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018GZBC3Y?tag=thewire06-20&linkCode=xm2&ascsubtag=AwEAAAAAAAAAARPY
Anycubic Photon: https://www.amazon.com/ANYCUBIC-Assembled-Innovation-Off-line-Printing/dp/B07TVW9HGH/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?adgrpid=61744442371&gclid=Cj0KCQiA-4nuBRCnARIsAHwyuPr9qUkHk3c-bjztvPtoPCnQfwmJiur43IW5Sqo_gLb2kfWEBrmndEMaAusvEALw_wcB&hvadid=274732107337&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9018836&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t2&hvqmt=e&hvrand=1205846483522208665&hvtargid=kwd-409136528305&hydadcr=21036_9428322&keywords=anycubic+photon&qid=1573068757&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFZUVVYT0NERzhRTFImZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTEwNDE5NjlRMUFTUlBNR1ZRNksmZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDUzMDYwN1BBOEZWNFRKU01GVyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX3NlYXJjaF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl
Ender 3: https://www.amazon.com/Comgrow-Creality-Printer-Upgrade-Certified/dp/B07GYRQVYV/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?adgrpid=56791742355&gclid=Cj0KCQiA-4nuBRCnARIsAHwyuPpuBebDhMzsbSGWKX2y-Dq2wg37UXSEJqeqqEfB5I6zU-MDqdo4q8QaAiFfEALw_wcB&hvadid=274684426752&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9018836&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t3&hvqmt=e&hvrand=5031503050646445943&hvtargid=kwd-446200976551&hydadcr=14671_9484359&keywords=ender+3+3d+printer&qid=1573068855&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyNlJNRVZTSEVBVkdHJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDY2NTcxMVlVNjFBVExFSTZWUCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUExMDIzODY4V1BDMkY5UUpZR0NMJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfcGhvbmVfc2VhcmNoX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
I am open to other printers, these are just the ones that were on my radar, so feel free to suggest other options.
Thanks for the help and sorry for the long links!
I have changed out the nozzle and checked the filament, but I'm not sure what is wrong still. The print will come out initially, but barely. For reference, I am using the Ender3 Pro. (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GYRQVYV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1)
Printing at 235 degrees for the nozzle, 75 for the bed. Adherence to the bed is fine so far, so I have that ruled out
I'm looking to buy an Ender 3 pro
But have seen it for cheaper on eBay, and am curious if it's safe to go the eBay route?
Here are two of the eBay sellers I saw:
Selling one of these 3D printers: https://www.amazon.com/FlashForge-Structure-Optimized-Platform-Extruder/dp/B00I8NM6JO/
The bed plate is upgraded to borosilicate glass, and has 3 plates to go with it. Asking for 650.
Solid machine and in excellent condition.
Pretty new to 3d printing but really interested. I basically just want to print stuff that people post and probably dabble in designing my own stuff. I am a technical guy, but I know that the designing of the models is pretty tough. I have sifted through the comments and saw two printers that stood out to me within the range I was thinking of. The CR-10 and the Prusa i3. I don't know which version is good for the CR-10 and I'm looking in the $400 range, but could go up to $800 if you guys think my value would be best there. Here are other printers I was looking at and not sure how everyone feels about those. If anyone can give me some feedback about them it'll help immensely in my decision.
how about a replicator clone then.
It's a hard choice, but I can say that when I was looking at potential units, I did consider the QIDI TECHNOLOGY 3DP-QDA16-01. This is still priced around entry level, so I wouldn't expect it to be a ton better; however, it does have some advantages. One nice thing is that it has a dual extruder setup. Initially, you might think "Why is printing in two colors a big deal?", but the advantage isn't colors but rather material. There's a specific type of filament that is water soluble, which works well for supports. This allows you to remove supports far easier than snipping them and filing down the nubs. It's not always a hard thing, but doing this for delicate parts can be a bit unnerving!
One thing to also consider when it comes to the world of 3D printing is how is the third-party support. That's where rebadges actually work out pretty well as these common designs usually mean more third-party components or even 3D printed parts available. For example, the Monoprice Maker Select V2 that I use is really just a Wanhao Duplicator i3. If I find parts for the Duplicator i3, they're likely going to work with the Select V2 as well. That QIDI unit earlier is the same as the FlashForge 3D Printer Creator Pro, and both of them are actually just rebadges of the Wanhao Duplicator 4! (Wanhao makes quite a lot of 3D printing products.)
One negative thing about that unit is that it's cantilevered. It isn't necessarily a problem, but it does mean that the weight of the carriage plate and hot plate are being carried only on a single side. Being cantilevered is normally only an issue when you start going up in build size, but it's worth noting.
I'd say the most important thing is to make sure the unit does everything that you need. It's not the worst thing if you go with a smaller, cheaper unit just to get your feet wet, and maybe work up to a larger, more capable unit.
First off, there is no perfect printer. There are only tradeoffs and choices. But between the gMax and the S5, we would choose the CR-10 S5. Why? Here are some of my thoughts about each...
gMax 1.5 XT+
Creatily CR-10 S5
The Bottom Line
That's our experience in a nutshell.
I bought an Anet A8 a while back before doing enough research, and have been pretty lucky until recently. My current printer has decided to cook itself, even after the upgrades that are suggested to make the printer safer. I would like to upgrade to a better printer that I can run for extended amounts of time without worry of setting a house fire. I would really like a printer that has a camera so I can monitor my prints while at work, and having dual extrudes would be a plus.
I have been doing a little research before posting but i'm not jazzed about what I have found so far. (although I am concerned about the build volumes) Some printers that I have come across are Mono Price Fully Enclosed Dual Extruder 3D Printer W/ Camera, FlashForge 3D Printer, and of course the Prusa i3 MK3S Kit (however adding the dual extruder is pricey)
I'm not sure if I'm all that sold on the three I listed so far mostly due to the build volume, and price, as well as not having a whole lot of reviews on them other than the Prusa.
When it comes to the camera I thought about mounting my own webcam to the printer, and using that instead to help cut costs. Is this a viable idea?
If anyone has any suggestions they would like to throw out please let me know.
I understand the nook and cranny issue. There would have to be some post processing to smooth the surface out. The issue I have been reading is that the material used for food safe 3d printing cant take much abuse and or quickly biodegrades, has little to no resistance to being cleaned with any sort of chemicals. Again, this is what I know of, I am hoping someone knows of a solution.
I was reading more about PTFE and 3d printing. It seems like you can not 3D print using PTFE besides the 3M material and thats going to be crazy expensive for now.
As far as making parts that dont need to be food safe, ABS seems like the way to go. It looks like getting an enclosed printer is also a good idea. Or getting a printer you can make an enclosure for. So far I have looked at a CR-10, Monoprice Maker Select Plus, and FlashForge 3D Printer Creator Pro though the build area is a bit small on this one.
> It's definitely not as easy as it seems, and there is some post print work, but i love it.
In grad school I got to play with a Makerbot Replicator and a Lulzbot. I'm looking for one of my own, with an emphasis on cheap and big.
Is this the one you have? Very nice. A bit expensive for me, though.
Alright, seeking advice here (duh, right?)...
I'd like to keep the purchase under 1k USD so strongly considering the Prusa MK3S kit, though I noticed the below options. I'd like dual extrusion, but mainly for support materials (dissolvable), but not a requirement. Does anyone have any thoughts on the other two or should I stick to the Prusa at this price point? TIA!
https://www.amazon.com/FlashForge-Structure-Optimized-Platform-Extruder/dp/B00I8NM6JO and subsequently ...
Personally, I love my FlashForge Creator Pro!
To put things in perspective on the money saved.
That app needs a personal settable achievement in terms of what one intends to do with the money saved.
or you can use this: https://www.amazon.com/XTC-3D-High-Performance-Print-Coating/dp/B00PFXK4JY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467164171&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=xtc+3d
or this and then epoxy sealer: https://www.amazon.com/DELUXE-MATERIALS-DLXBD044-Perfect-Plastic/dp/B0076LAVFK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467164177&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=perfect+putty
I was gonna start with my own variation on a sledgefire shell and also do tests with this https://www.amazon.com/Smooth-XTC-3D-Performance-Print-Coating/dp/B00PFXK4JY/ to see if it could produce better results than just sanding alone.
I've had good results with the standard .4 nozzle. As long as it prints clean, I've had more success putting effort into post-processing. This stuff does wonders for painting. I've printed minis on .5 and .6 nozzles with similar results in quality.
It can be, though that looks rougher than any of mine. But there's a product called XTC-3D that automatically smooths the striations of 3d-printed objects by filling them in.
On a modern engine it would run rich due to the O2 sensors in the CAT telling the engine to pump more fuel and if terribly bad, throw faults when the CAT O2 sensors get too far outside of tolerance. Also any leaks could be entirely mitigated by coating the thing in XTC-3D:
Its a self leveling resin used in certain forms of post processing.
Smooth-On XTC-3D High Performance 3D Print Coating - 24oz. Unit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PFXK4JY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ztcRBbQYAWSST
You can use xtc-3d from smooth on to get a super nice smooth finish, that's what I did here
Are you familiar with this stuff for coating?
That looks pretty sick. Just FYI though, you can get rid of those print lines with something like this: 3d print goo
You should try XTC! Its fantastic at filling on 3d prints, 30 minute cure time. Only takes 1 careful coat for fine prints, or 2-3 regular coats for less detailed prints. You can sand it smooth with 400 grit
Forgot about this for smoothing non-ABS prints: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PFXK4JY/
I'm not fantastic at 3d printing yet, but I highly recommend this. It's helped to get rid of the "layers" in a print without losing too much detail. You can get a TON out of a single bottle, so it's worth the price. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PFXK4JY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I've got two of these: https://www.amazon.com/ToyBuilder-Labs-Print-Removal-Tool/dp/B00VB1U886/
These have sharp edges that will damage your bed. Use this one instead:
Look at something like this :https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VB1U886?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
I used to just wreck prints trying to get it off with the stock scraper they send with the printer. It’s a thinner edge so it really seems to pop it off the bed a lot easier. I got that second one I linked a few posts back and I don’t use one of the tools but the longer one I’ll use after using the first tool on big prints outside of that this one really seems to get under prints with out to much effort.
Another solution that I have heard good results with but I not personally use is this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N2JGTWJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xQdWAb79FZS82
It’s on my list to try but my current printer doesn’t really need anything to help with binding or release from the bed. Now I did pick up a bed surface called geckotek : www.geckotek.co it’s supposed to be a bed pad like on the printer already but is supposed to just release prints after the bed cools down. Might run around $20 so it’s not to bad of a loss not sure when I’ll get around to installing it but could be better than the current surface it has now.
For a camera/smart switch look into a octopi setup. It uses a raspberry pi but it acts as a print controller. From what I heard is you can start/stop prints as well as upload prints you sliced and just run it from there. But you are supposed to be able to remote view it with a camera as well. I just never got around to setting one up but I do have everything if I ever need it. I normally run my long prints on the days I know I’m home but I normally don’t have to many issues though I have failures in the middle of the night but with me being close by I can catch it before any chance of damage. I do have my printer on a ups but I think it’s on the end of its life span so I will most likely need to replace it or the batteries later this year.
I just slide this along the edge and it pops up. I don't know why a razor wouldn't work the same, unless you're cutting into the PEI. The tool has blunt edges, but anything rigid and thin should work the same. I only print in PLA, though, so maybe it's different with other materials.
This is what I'm using and it's been fine for the past 6 months; glossy finish. I think what Prusa includes is closer to 7 mil though.
I'm sure there are some differences in heat transfer properties or something with regards to using a thinner sheet; but the only things I've noticed are that the screen printing can distort the surface slightly (visible dimple, but can't feel it) and I need to be more careful with my removal tools so I don't accidentally scratch through it and into the heat bed. I had been using a super sharp putty knife, but switched to this recently (basically a thin metal kitchen spatula, with rounded corners).
you're doing something wrong, i've owned a FFCP for years and only once damaged the bed.
The key is not to try to get under the bed, but to apply a horizontal pressure with a wedge onto the print right where it touches the bed. I use this print removal tool:
What usually causes this?
I've had my printer long enough to use up my first roll of filament and besides a mess up calibrating it (dug a little into the bed on one side), it's pretty clean and flat still. I use This tool to remove my prints.
Or is replacing your bed a common thing? I'm still getting used to everything.
I use these when leveling a heated bed so that it's trammed when hot and stable. Once the bed is trammed, I dial the screws down consistently to set the final elevation.
Disclaimer: we're the seller.
Here is the mobile version of your link
Sorry I can't answer all of your questions, but here's a few suggestions. Number one, a better part cooling fan. Just buy a cheap blower fan like this one, and print a radial cooling fan like this one. This should help a bit with your bottom screw holes being messy. For bigger prints this is a necessity. When it comes to getting prints off of the beds, I use a glass bed with a gluestick for adherence, and to remove prints I use this thing. Incredibly, incredibly useful. It's thin enough to get under prints without denting them, and the long design lets you move it underneath prints to free the whole this. The end is also sharp enough to scrape glue off of the printbed. Works a lot better than the scraper included with the printer.
I use a thin metal spatula for removing prints from the bed. It often tears the masking tape, but that's OK - That encourages me to put down fresh tape, and fresh tape makes for better prints.
I use this on my PEI sheet and it seems to work pretty well:
I usually pull things off when the bed is 40-50C.
Metal, most likely no as I don't have any experience with it. (plus the price)
Wood, maybe. I have a good bit of woodworking knowledge, but not at this small of a scale. If I were to do it in wood, it may be just wood 3D printer filament
> How do you find printing in Wood?
> I've only done pure PLA so far. I want to try a PLA infused wood next.
You need wood filament. Apparently Hatchbox Wood PLA is not possible to find right now, why? I do not know.
Amazon link which is currently out of stock. I honestly do not have any knowledge and/or recommendation for another brand of wood filament so hopefully someone can chime in.
It's all one type of filament. You can have give it various looks with different types of stain.
A filament with some percentage of wood added to create different finishes as compared to other filaments.
HATCHBOX 1.75mm Wood 3D Printer Filament - 1kg Spool (2.2 lbs) - Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.05mm
Basic Cura guide for simple problems-https://ultimaker.com/download/170/Cura_User-Manual_v1.0.pdf
Sli3r manuel (I know you are using cura but the advanced settings are adusting the same things and some of the different settings can get confusing this can explain each setting)-http://manual.slic3r.org/
Your machine has a max temp of 230C and I print my wood filament (http://www.amazon.com/HATCHBOX-1-75mm-3D-Printer-Filament/dp/B01092XXD4) at about 205-210C so you are good.
As for all the speeds you have to experiment to see what is right for your printer but I would start slow and work up. I agree 60mm/s is a good starting point. Use the suggested temps for the filamnet as a baseline and work from there. I believe the Maker Select is almost identical to the Wanhao Duplicator i3 so these articles might help you also-http://3dprinterbrain.info/pmwiki.php/DupI3/SlicerSettings
After you start printing use this to tune and troubleshoot, it is very good-https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/
Above everything, you are going to fail some prints and you are probably going to troubleshoot, but when you have a problem just come back and we help you troubleshoot.
Thanks I'll try bumping up the temp a bit.
The color is a bit weird because of the lighting, but it's just this common filament: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01092XXD4/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_kFv4Db1J16DN1
This is the wood filament I use when I print. I like this filament more than any other material. It prints so well. I've had cleaner prints with this stuff than any other material.
Easy solution- Wood Filament
Thanks for the interest everyone.
I used Hatchbox 3D Wood filament, printed with PLA settings, bed 60, extruder 210. The only problem I have is it's super stringy as the extruder moves from finish to start locations.
I'm going to finish this with sandpaper, this filament sands very nicely. Once it's sanded I'm going to assemble the boat pieces with wood glue, sand again then use wood stain to finish.
Think I'm going to print at least 5 of these and experiment with different wood stains and some colors. I don't have any serious plans to use them in water but I've heard this filament does float.
If I use some spray lacquer it might help but I'm guessing introducing the print to water probably wouldn't be the best for it's longevity.
If you look at the reviews in the below link you'll see some finished prints.
Link to filament - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01092XXD4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
It's [Hatchbox.] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01092XXD4?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00) I'll try colorFab once this one runs out.
I’ve done some basic configuring on a pi before, but not an Arduino.
Is something like this a good place to start?
OSOYOO 3D Printer Kit with RAMPS 1.4 Controller + Mega 2560 board + 5pcs A4988 Stepper Motor Driver with Heatsink + LCD 12864 Graphic Smart Display Controller with Adapter For Arduino RepRap https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0111ZSS2O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_VXi2AbTGH6C67
No problem, stuff happens. Anyway, if you want the bed to be totally static, it's rare you see that outside of delta designs. Typically the bed moves on the Z axis with CoreXY machines, just because I'm pretty sure moving the whole gantry would be a pretty strenuous process for the motor. The only kind of cartesian machine I can think of right now where all of the movement is done on the axes is a design by Printrbot meant to make an effectively infinitely extendable monstrous printer, called the Big E, so perhaps you could look to that for inspiration?
As for your electronics, I'd say start with a basic RAMPS board. I bought this recently, and it seems solid. I can't vouch for its quality yet as I've yet to actually use it. Given the sheer size of a machine you want to build, I'd think you might want to look into NEMA23s, though, and those require a beefier board, so I'm not sure where you'd begin to look for something like that. I think your best bet right now is to make a new post, to get some visibility.
I have an Anet A8 with Ramps 1.4 and a BLtouch sensor. I used the Anet A8 Config file and adjusted a few things to enable my BLtouch. This video helped me a lot to understand what each line of code is doing, so I wasn't just assuming everything was right. I do believe I have different stepper drivers though, if I'm not mistaken my drivers are the A4988's that came with this Ramps kit on Amazon.
Edit: Sorry I'm not much help I got mine to work by following countless videos and wikis. Some specific for Anet, some specific for the BLtouch, and some for general Marlin firmware. Then I compared all the above to fit my setup as well as going over my config file many times for reasureence. If this post doesn't make headway try r/aneta8
Sorry.. I fell asleep for a bit..
In the left pane at the top is "connection" where you set the port and baud rate. From other responses it seems the manufacturer screwed you on that though as it only does .gcode files. That is crazy.. I never heard of that as gcode is kind of an industry standard for CNC and 3D printers.
The ramps board is not too bad for most printers I've seen, but you would have to open up your printer controller and look at the plugs to gauge how hard it would be. Go on Amazon and search for "Ramps 3D mega". I got a kit with the RAMPS board, Arduino Mega 2560, 5 a4988 stepper controllers, 5 heatsinks, and a serial cable for $25. For $35 you can get one that includes a display and rotary encoder.something like this and then you just have to flash the firmware of your choice on there.
Yeah, it was a printer i got for a good deal from china. My old board melted and shorted out so I had to get this new one.
Is there a way to enable eeprom on this board? I'm not having much luck finding any article online on how to enable it.
Also, is this everything I would need to convert it to the arduino with ramps? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0111ZSS2O/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_ZNj3wbQV2DV9T
Any thoughts on if this would be okay to use? https://www.amazon.com/OSOYOO-Printer-Controller-Stepper-Heatsink/dp/B0111ZSS2O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491874832&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ramps+kit
I don't want to get something that might go all sparky sparky poof poof
Oh yeah most definitely. Here is a link to the RAMPS kit that I bought and Here is a link to the E3D clone I bought. For this clone to work I printed an insert for the heatsink.
so i put marlin firmware on it that was from a Facebook group for my printer and it screen was fuzzie no text at all on it i have this
I just built my i2 I've had laying around and ordered some cheap electronics kit off amazon, This one. I'm using a 12v 30 power supply off amazon as well. I configure marlin and after messing with the endstops finally I get the motors to move. next onto the thermistors. both the bed and the extruder are working and reading 25c at room temp as long as the 12v power supply is turned off. as soon as I turn it on the extruder goes to 0c and the bed remains at 25c. I tested the thermistor and im getting ~99-98k ohms at around 25c room temp. I also went into marlin and changed the temp pins for the extruder from t0 to t2 in the ramps_pin.h script. same result.
Do I have a bad ramps/Mega? or has anyone seen this problem before? am I missing somthing in the firmware that might fix this or should I buy a less cheap ramps and mega?
Well you can ask if they will take the melzi board and replace. You can go to wanhao site and under replacement they sell melzi board plug and play for $108 but you will have the bad melty connectors again.
Doing this you can even update to the bltouch and have auto bed leveling.
Picked up one for just shy of $300 USD before the holidays.
It's up to $443 now. Works really well with some tuning and managing prints is a breeze with a Raspberry Pi that has OctoPrint installed on it.
Will pint a benchy tonight with stock settings and post for you to checkout.
$330 on amazon.
Monoprice just came out with new version at $399. I haven't looked too much into differences.
So is this one V2
I was recommended these printers by a friend, do you know of any issues with it. We do have experience building a CNC machine before.
Its actually available on Amazon. I just bought one. Monoprice 113860 Maker Select Entry Level Heated Build Plate 3D Printer, Includes 2 GB Micro SD Card and Sample PLA Filament https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018GZBC3Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_OJPCxbDHF81X8
Somebody may have bought them up to resale them on amazon.
Thanks for the advice guys. I still haven't decided if I will go for it, but I thought it might be worth summarizing a bit of research I did in case others come across this post.
Here is a useful table (that I hope is accurate) to give you a list of chemical resistances by plastic type.
After consulting a few more chemical resistance charts through many a google search, I found that PVDF would do the job, but it seems like it may be tough to keep consistent temperature for a good print, and I would need a heated build plate. I found a relatively inexpensive (~$340) printer from Monoprice that should be able to print at the temperature I need and though seems to be pushing it, the build plate seems like it can get hot enough to print PVDF.
I've found from sellers like this one and this one that print temperature should be around 210C with a bed temperature around 120C (both costing ~$200).
I haven't decided if I will go ahead and buy it to try out. It might be nice to have the 3D printer for other things even if this doesn't work. I will look into how easily I could just fashion the basket from a block as suggested as well.
Monoprice printers have 10% off at checkout
Monoprice filament has 30% off at check out
Budget: $300 Max ( $220 - $250 Preferred )
I would be willing to build it from a kit - It's no problem. I don't have much experience with electronic maintenance, but I'm good w/ making stuff and my dad has experience.
I plan to print things out for fun, maybe mini figures. I would like to print things out that are larger though.
No circumstances. I just prefer fast-ish shipping if possible. Also must be a cyber-monday sale. I found some deals that fit my budget and look nice and I don't know whether or not they're good or worth. I'll link them in the post. If you could find a better one or give me opinions as to which one is the best to buy that'd be appreciated.
Trying to narrow down. I've got about $300 to work with. Presently like -
What are the tradeoffs? I'm unable to find significantly differentiating features / etc between the two. Thanks!
First gen Prusa i3 that much better thant he monoprice select (amazon.com) at the same price?
This is what I mainly use, If it’s not a CR-10 just for large build area.
The only thing that’s really an issue with either of them is the board they (and most other cheaper printers) use can’t supply enough current to the hotbed so it will start to cook the connector off the board and then start a fire. It’s super easily solved with adding a mosfet between the board and the hotbed.
If you end up getting your own look into OctoPrint. It will allow you to control the printer from a webpage, but more importantly it acts as a host for a video stream to your printer so you don’t need to run back and forth to babysit. Plus once you have the webcam hooked up you can get some sweet karma off the timelapses
This is the one I have. Monoprice 13860 Maker Select 3d Printer V2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018GZBC3Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Y1r4ybMNJVRCR
How about a nice Stratasys? Oops for $300 better go with a select mini V2:
Or maker select, which is slightly over budget, but based on the i3 platform and probably something that you can grow with.
Both are great printers and will give optimal quality for the price.
Hi all, I have a question about the Monoprice Maker Select v2. I've seen discussion here of it being a potential fire hazard and the board burning out because of the power draw to the heated bed (if I'm understanding everything correctly). Someone mentioned there being a 2.1, which supposedly addresses some of those issues. I haven't been able to find a 2.1 elsewhere, just the WanHao Duplicator 2.1. Is that what people are referring to? Or are newer v2 units being sold now 2.1? Do the v2 models being sold on Amazon have the power issue still?
A copy of a wanhao duplicator i3 v2.1
Monoprice maker select v 2.
I have an around ~$350 US budget, and I found a Monoprice Maker Select V2 and a Prusa i3 V2. Which should I choose, or is there anything better for the price out there?
Maker Select v2
PSA: You can buy a pretty good 3d Printer for $300. This is the one I have. It is worth owning ...
Monoprice Maker Select is just a rebrand if you want to go that option on amazon.
Man this conversation has me back fired up to get one. I got on amazon and the prices have dropped so much it's really affordable now. This one has decent reviews if used right and the price point has it in the realm I could do it now but I'll probably be wiser and wait till my next bonus still. I wish I would have looked a week ago I've nearly spent that much on new mods and vape gear this month. I'm excited to see them in the price range to it's so much more in reach now. Last time I looked they were still closer to $1K
How would you rank this in terms of budget choices
Pretty much everyone or /r/3Dprinting will recommend a Wanhao/monoprice duplicator i3 for tight budgets or beginners, such as this one!
Is the Monoprice Maker Select a good budget/home printer for a budget of $400 USD? If not, what should I buy under $400?
It's arriving tomorrow. The one I ordered was sold by Amazon, so it qualified for Prime 2-day shipping. See Amazon's list of sellers.
For clarity, is this the printer you're talking about?
Just getting this today (I also missed the monoprice promo cutoff). But good news, Amazon has it for $272 + free shipping w/prime.
edit: just saw same comment below. The same good news twice is still good news...?
I just got that from my orders sheet, looks like they are doing something with their management at the moment.
Thats the 1 star reviews, only 14 of them (and one is just calling out what they think are fake reviews) - 84 5* reviews.
I posted this on here in another thread, but the one I bought this week came with a 4GB card (and a slot that has the card stick out for easy access) & a larger spool holder along with metal thumbwheels for the base adjustment - so they are improving in-versions, making a couple of the criticisms unwarranted.
It seems lots of people will recommend other printers, but almost all of them are twice the cost or more - so I guess it boils down to how much you want to invest. Personally I think its better to learn on a cheaper unit by printing
For the Canadians looking for a deal, Amazon.ca has the Monoprice Maker Select for a good price at $398 CAD with free shipping. Ships from Amazon's Toronto warehouse so you won't have to worry about duty.
At that price range, I've been extremely happy with my QIDI Tech printer. (http://www.amazon.com/TECHNOLOGY-3DP-QDA16-01-Extruder-Structure-Filaments/dp/B01D8M32LU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463690261&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=qidi+tech) My friends who have 3d printers are all very impressed by the quality that it prints straight out of the box.
I'll also recommend, the biggest quality upgrade I've experienced is when I paid $140 to get Simplify3D. All objects instantly came out with better quality than when I used the free Makerbot slicer.
This is a great starter:
Amazon does sell it themselves.
Some context. Hoping someone has some ideas or experience. Thanks for reading!
QIDI Tech I on Amazon (less common printer, I’d link to prusa if I were advertising 😉)
I am not printing anywhere on this graph. This is just a manual test of setting various temperatures to see what was going on, without extruding any material.
I first noticed the problem during a print. Some filament was scorched, but the nozzle kept jamming (I soon discovered that it was likely because then it was too cold).
Was printing with ABS, only on the right extruder (T0). I thought maybe just T0 was broken, but this test made the situation look a little more interesting. I am guessing that the ghost signal on T1 has to due with an electrical problem. But it could be any part of the feedback loop (heaters, sensors, or controllers--maybe even a fan?).
UPDATE: Note that the third number is heated bed temperature, which does not ripple. To me, that might exclude something like the power supply?
Is the QIDI Tech printer decent? Reviews and images in the reviews seem to indicate it is.
I have the Qidi Tech version of this printer and love it (https://www.amazon.com/TECHNOLOGY-3DP-QDA16-01-Extruder-Structure-Filaments/dp/B01D8M32LU/ref=sr_1_1/137-3764290-4585929?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1494515935&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=qidi+tech). Well worth the money spent and a very solid printer, I did an extrusion upgrade to it as well as changing to a PEI platform and I can print flex material / ABS with zero issues.
Edit: this printer to he exact
QIDI TECHNOLOGY 3DP-QDA16-01 Dual Extruder Desktop 3D Printer QIDI TECH I, Fully Metal Frame Structure, Acrylic Covers, with2 Free Filaments, Works with ABS and PLA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D8M32LU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TRZ.AbDATWTYK
Well, starting to look at this one as well since it's enclosed:
But the X-ONE could have an enclosure added with some work. Definitely have gotten a good impression of Qidi
I got this full setup from Amazon and I have been very happy with it. When I performed the swap I noticed that the heatsink facing side of my cooling block had a REALLY shitty surface on it. I think I was getting poor conduction to the heatsink and experiencing heat creep after a couple hours. The face on the slotted block is beautiful. No more heat creep.
OK good info! I can get loads of 3mm hardware easily so no worries there.
I found this hot end and cooling block in the related items: Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend with SLOTTED Cooling Block for Wanhao i3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E1HANLS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_d.w0xb2R481VR is this good for the price? I'll look online but are there specific enclosure designs that work best?
Also found a laptop cooling fan that is supposed to fit, and borosilicate glass for the bed.
I'm going to start slow with PLA and see where my adventures take me but I might get a reel of ABS too, hopefully I can make RC car parts and stuff like that the some point.
Go ahead and grab the Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend with Slotted Cooling block. Like $50 on Amazon with Prime. An all-metal is necessary for printing PETG/ABS/anything above 230 really.
Also, the 3DPrinting nerd fairly recently uploaded a full tutorial on installing this thing if you're uncomfortable with the (well) written instruction.
Another user mentioned that they swapped in an E3D, but that is a) probably a bit overkill, and b) a huge hassle.
The nozzle on that printer is a MK10 nozzle. There's a bunch on Amazon.
Unless you've been really abusive, it could just use a nice clean. I use a brass brush on mine. Just pre heat the hot end and scrub away. It'll be fairly clean when you're done.
But if you want to change the nozzle, you may want to go ahead and upgrade to an all metal setup with the Micro Swiss hot end. This comes with a new nozzle and some other stuff.
I personally have the Micro Swiss kit with their plated nozzle. After scrubbing it, it always looks good as new.
Im thinking of getting these, will they be compatible?
Would this be better for number 3?
Edit: also which hairspray do you use?
that exists by the way.
Just tried it on amazon.ca
Did not work.
I cant speak to the quality of the printer, but I will never buy a 3rd party product from Walmart ever again nor their warranty. They will not back up the warranty and will want you to deal directly with the manufacture on any issues. This manufacturer is in China and it will take days to get a response. They will also not allow you to return it to the store since its 3rd party.
You can pick up a Ender 3 for a great price and get amazing prints out of it when you dial it in.
> or own a 5 or 6 figure 3D printer in your basement.
Where the fuck did you get that number, I can find a 3D printer for less then probably even 4 figures easily brand new. I found one shipped on Amazon right now for 3 figures
I have a MP Mini V2 and its a decent machine, just has a smaller build plate.
I also have a Anycubic I3 Mega that has been a great machine.
I’ve used a couple of the other monoprice printers, but that’s it. These have been great out-of-the-box printers for me, but they are limited by your knowledge and willingness to spend time to dial them in for anything other than PLA. I struggled trying to get my I3 running PETG, but ultimately didn’t have the patience so I’m back on PLA. Going to give it another shot soon since I know it can do it.
Glass will make the bed flat but not level. You still have to do that part. It will be much easier to level and require less frequent adjustments though. There are pre-cut pieces of borosilicate for the mini
something like this? seems inexpensive enough to give it a try. extr
Lots cheaper 200-300 do that and more.
Beats almost 50 for a little amount plastic...