Best all-purpose household cleaners according to redditors
We found 897 Reddit comments discussing the best all-purpose household cleaners. We ranked the 325 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 897 Reddit comments discussing the best all-purpose household cleaners. We ranked the 325 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
http://www.amazon.com/Cyber-Clean-25055-Office-Pop-up/dp/B00375JBL4/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8
Only because it looks like you might have stripped the paint and might be sanding and that looks like older paint
use $20 and buy some EPA lead test swabs to check the paint for lead https://www.amazon.com/3M-717834209102DUPE-LeadCheck-Swabs-8-Pack/dp/B008BK15PU
lead is a powerful neurotoxin and if inhaled or absorbed through your skin - you won't finish the last tread before you start feeling the effects of lead (you'll find other things to do than finish the treads)
Use Barkeeper's Friend. Will take it right off and look brand new.
*Edit: Fixed link, sorry!
I used one of these and a 5 gallon bucket to wash clothes for a couple of years. That was for two adults, a toddler, baby, and included cloth diapers. It’s quite an arm workout, but was doable. It was tedious to hand wring everything out before hanging it to dry, but overall saved us so much money in laundry costs. It’d be a really great option for a single person.
http://www.amazon.com/Bar-Keepers-Friend%C2%AE-Cleanser-Polish/dp/B000V72992
Supposedly the 8th miracle of the world.
I can’t tell if you’re joking or not, but barkeepers friend is a cleaning powder product lol
https://www.amazon.com/Bar-Keepers-Friend-Powdered-12-Ounces/dp/B000V72992
I've seen this recommended on the Tesla Facebook discussion. It depends a bit on whether the color is removed or the material is actually scratched - and I can't tell from the photos.
https://www.amazon.com/Solution-Finish-Black-Plastic-Restorer/dp/B006NZRAFE/
If the material underneath is actually scratched away you might need some sort plastic/vinyl repair.
If this is sort of scratch mark made by the material being left behind - like chalk or something leaving a mark behind - then I'd clean it with something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071XB18BF
My wife got some sunscreen on her interior (SR+). We use this to clean the inside of our cars:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071XB18BF/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_PWCnDbQ8CGK4K
I haven’t noticed it since.
Barkeeper's Friend will remove the scratches:
Bar Keepers Friend® Cleanser & Polish: 12 OZ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000V72992/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_96FeAb3K8H79A
find yourself some barkeepers friend
get about a teaspoon of powder with an equal amount of water and make a paste. Work it into the burn marks and leave it overnight. should loosen it up really good.
Alternatively you could use some steel wool and elbow grease, but that might scrape off your nonstick coating.
> You put lemon juice and/or 'Fruit Fresh' (powdered citric acid
...or if you're like me, you buy a 5lb bag of citric acid powder ridiculously cheap and then get Looks of Disapproval from the wife because now we have a 5lb bag of citric acid taking up cabinet space. But it was so cheap!
Try Barkeepers friend!
https://www.amazon.com/Bar-Keepers-Friend®-Cleanser-Polish/dp/B000V72992
Not OP, but Barkeeper's friend is a miracle product for otherwise completely destroyed stainless steel cookware.
Barkeeper's Friend Powder Cleanser, 21 oz-2 pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008EN9XUI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Z3SlzbFBCFYDY
Barkeepers Friend and a scotch pad should clean that right up, along with almost any other surface in your house.
This is lame, but I love doing laundry! First off, use all of the settings on your washer. Take the time to switch the water temperature, spin speed, etc if your washer allows it.
For whitening clothes, I like using some Borax (I put it in the spot for the prewash detergent), and then when they seem to be getting dinging some liquid bluing. That will usually do the trick with tee shirts, towels, sheets, etc.
For hand washing I usually, resolve a little bit of the same Borax in my sink. I used to use woolite, but I always forget to buy it, and the Borax seems to work the same (so one less thing to remember at the store).
There are lots of other things I use daily:
etc.
But the point I guess I'm making is that you can get lots of good, cheap stuff to start with.
This can be dealt with.
Here are a few options to consider. First, Zinc will help with the stink. You can take a Zinc supplement AND use a topical ointment on your feet. If you decide to take a Zinc supplement, don't take it everyday and be mindful of your copper levels. OptiZinc has copper included although you want to supplement even a little more. The ideal zinc-to-copper ratio is 10:1.
This works very well because it contains 40% Zinc. One of the highest you can find. I've used this on my feet with success and I've even used it on my face before to help with complexion issues and it never dried me out. I think using daily on your feet would be fine although I wouldn't recommend putting it on your face every day. You can find this in Walmart in the baby isle (where the Pedialyte is located). Start with a small amount and rub it in. A little goes a long way with this stuff, you don't want your feet feeling greasy all day.
I bought this because I was looking for safer deodorant options. I was amazed at how well it worked on my armpits (much better than traditional deodorants containing aluminum) and the upside for you is, it even specifically mentions being used on feet to treat foot odor. I haven't done that but I imagine it would working swimmingly.
This product is along the same lines as BodyMint, but much cheaper. It is typically used to deal with bad breath that originates from odor created in the gut, but it has also been used to treat general body odor as well. I recommend starting with the top 2 recommendations first but considering this can be tried for only ~$7, it may be worth just adding it to your odor fighting stack.
I was told this is the product that bowling alleys use to disinfect the bowling shoes. I bought a can sometime ago when I was running and wanted to keep my running shoes from getting rank. I can't find it right now but I seem to recall a warning about harmful/caustic chemicals coming into contact with skin so use this one carefully if you decide to try it. You should be disinfecting your shoes anyway since it sounds like your issue could be bacterial or fungal, seeing as it spreads so rapidly to new shoes.
I got these for running and I love them. They are super light and are made from a breathable mesh. The thicker your socks are, the more likely your feet are to get hot and begin sweating. These are a bit expensive but you can think of them as an investment that pays dividends.
These are designed to naturally remove odor. I keep them in my shoes when they're just sitting in my closet. I assume they are working because my shoes don't stink. They are cheap and got good reviews on Amazon. Check 'em out.
In conclusion
I believe if you are washing your feet thoroughly, making sure your socks are clean and your feet have some Zinc ointment rubbed into them (or the crystal deodorant applied) and your shoes are properly disinfected and dry, I think you will see an appreciable reduction in foot funk if not a complete eradication.
Good luck.
Yoo. My dude. Fuck Ajax. Get your hands on Barkeeper. That stuff had my bathroom looking like I first moved in. I'm never going back.
Lodge Cast Iron Skillets are great but you have to make sure you clean them immediately afterwards.
For something more practical (and cheap), take a look at these guys (depending on what size you are looking for. You can sautee something, throw it in the oven, and when they start to get ugly, take some Bar Keepers Friend and go at it. It will look good as new in no time. P.S., please don't pay $5 for BKF, it is at your grocery store for only a dollar or two.
Edit: Here is a test of this one vs. the expensive All Clad version.
Scrub with Barkeepers Friend http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000V72992/ref=redir_mdp_mobile
This is the test I used:
3M LeadCheck Swabs, 8-Pack
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008BK15PU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fynyCbE7MCHC7
Barkeeper's Friend, this stuff is a life saver!
https://www.amazon.com/Barkeepers-Friend-Powder-Cleanser-oz-2/dp/B008EN9XUI/ref=sr_1_2_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1495302948&sr=8-2&keywords=bartenders+friend
We need more of these types of do-it-yourself tips, thank you!
More details with a list of materials and links (Amazon?) please :-).
I might have tried Bar Keepers Friend :-).
https://www.amazon.com/Bar-Keepers-Friend-Powdered-21-Ounces/dp/B008EN9XUI/
You can buy citric acid on Amazon and coat anything* to become a 'sour' verison.
^^^*Don't ^^^put ^^^it ^^^on ^^^or ^^^in ^^^your ^^^penis
https://www.amazon.com/Bar-Keepers-Friend%C2%AE-Cleanser-Polish/dp/B000V72992
barkeepers friend is a handy stainless steel polish
I bought some Cyber Clean last week and hadn't thought to use it on my keyboard yet.
So here's an album depicting its effectiveness.
I went through this with my son around one as well, For 6 months his levels where elevated.
Call your doctor and ask who they would recommend you speak to about lead being in the home. My doctor sent me to my local county health authority. They came out and inspected my house from the floor up. We discovered our issue was an old built in cabinet and had it removed. Other options are avail even though.
They explained that you can buy lead test sticksamazon carries them as well as most hardware stores and can test the house yourself. You will want to start in areas your toddler frequents, and start low aka their level. Document all areas that pop positive for lead.
I went through 2 that I found out were cheap chinese knocks offs. Heres the good you get with pax:
Company behind it is actually reliable and consumer friendly. All this weed/vape shit is still the wild west. Pax stands as a company that has actual customer service and a well designed website that sells replacement parts.
Sleek looking as fuck and well built. Seriously, if someone you don't want knowing you smoke weed sees this they are more likely to think portable battery than vaporizer.
It does its job well and reliably. Not much more to ask for.
With that said if you get one get this pack(or something similar with good reviews) https://www.amazon.com/Jianuo-Adjustable-Sandwich-Pusher-Bottom/dp/B07C7RLWF4/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1541730768&sr=8-8&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=pax+2&dpPl=1&dpID=41fnvMi-VlL&ref=plSrch
Its literally night and day.
Ceramic you say? Get some barkeeper's friend and clean that nasty bowl.
Bar Keepers Friend Works awesome on porcelain and metals for removing rust and discoloration. I use it on any stubborn stains. Best way to clean burnt stainless steel pains and bring them back to new.
Agreed, it's your business. She can hire her own inspection done if she wants.
That being said, maybe not a terrible idea to purchase a lead detection kit to make sure there's no lead - for your own peace of mind if nothing else. Lead chips taste sweet so young children really will eat them.
It's also not unusual especially for first time moms to overworry about their kids. If you think she's a good tenant and want to keep her I'm sure there are some basic reassurances you can provide. If not, I agree with u/NetWareHead that you maybe just don't renew the lease.
Good luck!
I haven't seen this particular product, but the label looks like it's a non-permeable plastic outside. Is the underside "paper" that's "glued" to the container? That would be a tricky combo.
I've been able to use peanut butter (yes, peanut butter) on most labels with sticky glue (the oil soaks in and dissolves the adhesive).
If the outer surface prevents this, there's always the Nuclear Option®.
My wife and I spent a year in rural parts. Without power and water, there isn't the ability to wash clothes. Something like this would be invaluable: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YQCOCAM
Also, without running water look at various camping shower options. Some paracord and laundry pins are good too to dry out clothes in case they lost theirs in the storm (its not uncommon to use a washer but hang dry your clothes)
Edit: oh and tape and mosquito netting. I bet all the mosquito screens on windows are trashed, so the ability to tape up netting over the windows will help
Bar keeper's friend mate
Another endorsement for Barkeeper's Friend right here!
Edit: If you don't have some, get some.
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Subway: Eat Fresh!
I guess people can't buy concentrated all purpose chemicals and spray bottles so they can save an assload of money.
http://www.amazon.com/Simple-Green-11001-All-Purpose-Concentrate/dp/B0017D1GG6
http://www.amazon.com/Proforce-Commercial-Spray-Bottles-Ct/dp/B006SVSH9Q
http://www.amazon.com/Ivesco-One-Ounce-Dispensing-Pump/dp/B0024J2VO8
For a steep $17 you get 256 spray bottles full of all purpose cleaner. $0.0664/spray bottle of cleaner.
A total of $42.71 for everything pushes the total cost to $0.1668/spray bottle of cleaner.
For those wondering, use this instead: https://www.amazon.com/Simple-Green-13406-Aircraft-Precision/dp/B001VXU7OE
It does not corrode like normal simple green.
Unless you know absolutely that the balls have no lead in the plastic, which is all too common, I would get a lead test for every differently colored ball. Because sometimes lead is one color, and not another. One can never be too careful.
Why? Do you rub your fingers on the screen often? :-)
Smitty's Glass Wax might do well but not 100% sure it's safe for bare (matte) flatscreens — I'd guess it is — nor if it might leave things a little shiny.
Works great on glossy touchscreens and sometimes on glasses though I've found it's more of a pain than it's worth to use on optical lenses more than occasionally. Does seem to cut down on fingerprints etc and make fingers glide better for a while.
You can buy lead test kits: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008BK15PU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share - so far all the tableware I've bought from taobao is safe (nothing from this list though).
there's really no way to know without a lead tester or you can just rub it off with nail polish remover and not try to figure out if it's lead.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-717834209102DUPE-LeadCheck-Swabs-8-Pack/dp/B008BK15PU/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1500494688&sr=1-4&keywords=lead+test
to be honest, though it's not going to kill you. i live in america and when i shoot guns i get lead dust in my lungs, much more dangerous than lead paint: http://www.npr.org/sections/health-shots/2017/05/10/527648768/lead-dust-from-firearms-can-pose-a-silent-health-risk
Don't waste your time with a grinding wheel! Ah! There are sooo many better ways that are substantially easier and are much less harsh to the stove and to you. I would highly suggest just getting a large tub (rubbermade stuff) and putting any piece you can remove (top, legs, doors, etc) in it with a few gallons of white vinegar. Plain old vinegar does an amazing job on at removing rust. Literally eats it right off and doesn't hurt the metal. Even just using a mild acid like lemon juice or soda with some tin foil will be easier then a grinding wheel. Look up some rust removal videos on Chrome parts on youtube, same logic.
Check out this steel tank I cleaned up.
http://imgur.com/a/eb8Wv
Photos almost don't do it justice. The first photo I had already started cleaning it. I just let it soak for a couple hours and used the stainless steel dish scrub and the rust started coming right off. put the tank back in overnight and it came out as you see in the second photo. again, scrubbed it more and hit it with some baking soda to stop the acid reaction. cleaned it with a towel and dried it in the oven. 0 tools used. no grinding and the metal came out gleaming.
for anything that's to big to soak, can also use this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GRSOJSS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
very safe and isn't harsh to work around. a grinding wheel will take you hours and is going to eat away a lot of good metal. it's also going to potentially ad brush marks. even if you paint over it, still might see them.
good luck!
edit: just wanted to mention, in the second photo, the bottom half of the tank was sitting in the vinegar over night. that's how clean it came out without evening touching it with a scrubber.
This is in my Christmas cart, wish me luck.
I have beaten this infestation before!
Get Borax, the laundry booster. It's hard to find these days, but it does exist. Sprinkle it on your carpet and use a push broom to brush it down into the carpet so it disappears. Wait two days before vacuuming. It'll sit down in the very base of your carpet where fleas like to live and you can ignore. Vacuum and live your life normally. Re-apply annually.
Not only does this chemical dehydrate adult fleas, it dehydrates flea eggs. Therefore, you're killing the next generation before it can hatch. You win this fight is by eliminating their ability to breed. As I understand it, DE only works on adult fleas and by then, it's pretty late in the game.
You can do this in your car carpet, but because it doesn't have a thick pad underneath it, it won't be as easy/clean/long lasting. It might be worth it for an initial shock treatment, though.
EDIT: Borax! https://www.amazon.com/Borax-Mule-Team-Detergent-Booster/dp/B000R4LONQ/ref=sr_1_1_s_it?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1466110819&sr=1-1&keywords=Borax
EDIT 2: I was taught this in the mid 1990's when my parents had a professional company come do this treatment. I was home alone and talked to the guy and said, "What is that stuff?" and he told me straight up what it was and how it worked. I've never called the pros again.
I didn't think you'd need to give any reason. It's a type of laundry detergent. We played with it in elementary school to make slime by mixing it with glue.
Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Mule-Borax-Natural-Laundry-Booster/dp/B000R4LONQ
The warped bottom you can't really fix. If you have a gas stove, it probably won't matter much, but it's annoying for sure. The other stuff... you can try some bar keeper's friend, or you can try the boiled salt water again... assuming you actually pay attention to it. What you're doing is basically deglazing the pan. I typically do that every time I cook, makes cleanup a breeze and sometimes is great for an awesome pan sauce.
Use bar keeper's friend. It will clean it up quick and easily with just a bit of scrubbing.
I used a Dremel rotary tool with one of these buffing wheel attachments and some Barkeeper's Friend mixed with a little water to form a paste. I just used a low speed and tried to be patient. The crystal is pretty tough but I did manage to get one really fine scratch (barely noticeable) so be careful.
Soak in [simple green] (http://www.amazon.com/Simple-Green-11001-All-Purpose-Concentrate/dp/B0017D1GG6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410081846&sr=8-1&keywords=simple+green) and it will look brand new.
Cleaning putty
https://www.amazon.ca/Cyber-Clean-25055-Office-Pop-up/dp/B00375JBL4
Just my $0.02 after years of fiddling with electronics and various gadgets. This goes for a lot of cleaning questions and tips here.
DON'T use a toothpick or compressed air unless there is a route/path of egress.
Sure, if you're careful you may be able to brush out some of the dust and grime, but forcibly doing so (using a toothpick or compressed air) is also very likely to push dust and dirt into areas where you really don't want it.
Unless you've disassembled your device and are cleaning it from the inside out, you are pushing junk into the device.
If you have some loose-ish stuff that won't come out by gently tapping the device face-down against your palm, for example, then you can try a soft-bristle brush. Again, though, this introduces a force that can push debris into the device.
You can try something called Cyber Clean , which is a putty that is specifically meant to lift stuff off/out of surfaces and crevices.
For prevention, the best option is probably a case (that wraps around/covers the gap. This will still introduce a little 'nook' between the front panel and the front edge of the case, but this is much easier to clean. Just take off the case and wipe away the 'frame' of grime left behind. Make sure not to wipe it over the gap between the front panel and the phone body, though.
People would melt lead ingots in them and use the melted lead to make fishing weights or bullets, most commonly. It's not terribly common, but it definitely happened and is possible. [This] (https://www.amazon.com/3M-717834209102DUPE-LeadCheck-Swabs-8-Pack/dp/B008BK15PU) is one of the better ways to check if your pan is contaminated- ideally when restoring and it's stripped down to bare iron.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-717834209102DUPE-LeadCheck-Sawabs-8-Pack/dp/B008BK15PU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1543161919&sr=8-3&keywords=lead+test+kit
knowing china, yeah, i bet many parts (hopefully just internal) have lead dust.
Can always buy a test kit and see what it comes up with. For here is what I found on Amazon, comes with 8 tests. Probably not a bad idea to have around if you are into buying vintage cast iron.
3M LeadCheck Swabs, 8-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008BK15PU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_q7FWBbMX65CXD
Bar Keepers Friend Powdered Cleanser 21-Ounces (2-Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008EN9XUI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Da4kDbFFAS8JD
Helps clean the exhaust tips
wrap material ended up being like ~800$
other things i bought:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QXZJP4R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07516WFGN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07J31T262/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LVB8AIG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074QW6ZTS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FQHY64S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LQN5GO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
CarGuys Super Cleaner - Effective All Purpose Cleaner - Best for Leather Vinyl Carpet Upholstery Plastic Rubber and Much More! - 18 oz Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071XB18BF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4m10CbSFZ3KAD
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C7RLWF4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_vND2CbCY3R54F
Best $10 I have spent in a while!
Considering citric acid is in citrus fruits you could likely just use lemon juice. A small enough concentration that it won't affect the taste.
Or you could buy a 5lb bag of citric acid in powder form from Amazon and dilute it yourself. http://www.amazon.com/Spicy-World-Citric-Acid-5-Pound/dp/B000OZFECU
I sprinkle a little Gold Bond Extra strength medicated foot powder inside my lifting shoes when I take them off. Seems to be working.
Warning, keep this powder away from your junk.
I guess this spray could also work?
This is the best stuff IMO. Works on almost any set-in-stain.
https://www.amazon.com/Bar-Keepers-Friend%C2%AE-Cleanser-Polish/dp/B000V72992
Bar Keepers Friend.
I've heard really good things about Bar Keeper's Friend for cleaning stainless steel.
You can pour a layer of vinegar in the bottom of a pan and heat it up. Once it gets hot, turn it off and let it sit for 15 minutes, then scrub like crazy. It removes most spots.
Try this stuff....Barkeeper's Friend. It will get rid of a lot of that deposit stuff. It's an acid/cleaner...you make a paste out of it with a little water, rub it in for a minute or two and then...well let's just say that I've seen it work miracles. Better than any other normal cleaner I've used (and I've tried them all). It's fine for tiles too. Try it before you try anything else.
$0-$5
Bar Keepers Friend - This stuff is magic for cleaning. It gets rid of all kinds of stains on tile or porcelain and makes sinks look awesome.
$5-$10
Magic Erasers - These are obviously sorcery
$10-$20
Power Squid - Helps deal with the situation around my computer and tv.
$20-$50
14-Piece Knife Set - Not a great knife set, but better than a drawer of miscellaneous knives, which is what I have now! Decent reviews, too.
Cyber Clean
It's amazing! Your keyboard is fresh and not at all disgusting ever, I wouldn't want to go without it \^\^
I know it's not a LPT solution... but there's this thing called Cyber Clean
And it is freaking amazing. You should check it out.
Haven't used this myself yet, but I remember someone in a different post mentioned Smitty's Glass Wax as working pretty well. Smittys Glass Wax https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004N1P3GI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qXeeAbEA60958
Bathtub or giant rubbermaid bin, some muscle and this https://www.amazon.ca/Amazing-Washing-Wand-Apartments-Emergencies/dp/B00YQCOCAM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1491484861&sr=8-2&keywords=washing+wand
As for drying you can get a drying rack that folds out or one that hangs on a door.
Edit: this is what i have but I only paid $30 for it https://www.amazon.ca/Greenway-Stainless-Steel-Laundry-Drying/dp/B01MXTQYAX/ref=sr_1_2?s=kitchen&ie=UTF8&qid=1491490271&sr=1-2&keywords=over+door+drying+rack
Use a cleaner that works for multiple fabrics, and not specifically for leather. Example: Car Guys has a multi-purpose cleaner that is highly rated. At $17 I feel it's a little expensive, but might be worth picking up when it goes on sale: https://www.amazon.com/CarGuys-Super-Cleaner-Effective-Upholstery/dp/B071XB18BF/
Same with the "conditioner", I use a multipurpose spray which gives the seats an additional layer, but also makes the seats sound squeaky: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KN0UOEE/
I asked my mobile service tech and he reminded this but I haven't tried it yet: CarGuys Super Cleaner - The Most Effective All Purpose Cleaner Available on The Market! - Best for Leather Vinyl Carpet Upholstery Plastic Rubber and Much More! - 18 oz Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071XB18BF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_N9gaCb5ST6WSK
What spray cleaner do you guys use to clean the alcantara?
I was wondering if this $20 Sonax cleaner was worth it: https://www.amazon.com/Sonax-206141-Upholstery-Alcantara-Cleaner/dp/B00BBWJ16U/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494953995&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=alcnatara+cleaner
or can I get away with a $3 bottle of Tuff Stuff? https://www.amazon.com/Tuff-Stuff-Purpose-Cleaner-Cleaning/dp/B0009PCPNQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1494953867&sr=8-4&keywords=fabric+cleaner
edit: or can I even get away with just vacuuming and using a damp microfiber cloth?
Use citric acid instead. No funky smell or foaming to worry about. $20 for 5 pound may be a bit expensive initially, but you only need a couple tablespoons each time so it'll probably last you a lifetime. It's exactly what's inside these.
I get zero residue on my dishes. The recipe I use calls for citric acid, which really helps to get rid of that residue. I bought a giant bag of it on Amazon for pretty cheap, though honestly I didn't need to buy that much - the recipe I have only calls for 1/2 cup at a time, and each recipe lasts for several months.
It is definitely old-school:
https://www.amazon.com/Borax-Mule-Team-Detergent-Booster/dp/B000R4LONQ
Bar Keepers Friend
I've done the same thing and no long term damaged. Clean with Bar Keepers Friend and it will be good to go for many more years.
http://www.amazon.com/Bar-Keepers-Friend%C2%AE-Cleanser-Polish/dp/B000V72992
A few ways to get rid of this, a melamine sponge (the same thing that Magic erasers are made of), Bar Keepers friend, vinegar, baking soda, or anything that will scrub the hard water deposits from the ceramic.
Oxalic acid to the rescue.
I usually get this and then dilute it for different needs
Simple Green Industrial SMP11001 Clean Building All-Purpose Cleaner Concentrate, 1gal Bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0017D1GG6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5cWtDbTY0YKJG
https://smile.amazon.com/Smittys-Glass-Wax-Blister-Pack/dp/B004N1P3GI
I've used this for a long time. It feels similar to oleophobic but only lasts a month or two with regular use. That being said you get tons of applications out of one bottle and it takes like 2 minutes to do.
https://www.amazon.com.mx/3M-717834209102DUPE-LeadCheck-Swabs-8-Pack/dp/B008BK15PU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485809462&sr=8-1&keywords=LeadCheck
I recently bought this set on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008BK15PU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I don't know if anyone has a better suggestion. It's expensive, but I figured it was important enough to do right.
two pack
I'll throw in Evapo-Rust as a #5. It's non-toxic and isn't nearly as harsh as naval jelly, but it works pure magic at removing rust.
My first six months at site I hand washed. One tub for washing, one for rinsing, then hang to dry. It'd take at least an hour for a week's worth of clothes.
Then I got smart, I came across this website by one of those doomsday preper/apocalypse type guys. He had this idea for washing clothes without electricity and it changed my life. Basically you need just a toliet plunger and large tall bucket, what we call a 5 gallon bucket in the USA. The plunger can be substituted with a number of instruments but I've found if you can get ahold of a plunger, it works best. You cut some holes in the plunger so water can through. Then to do laundry, put a couple handfuls of soap in the bucket, add the plunger, and put all your clothes in around the plunger. Then add water to pretty much the top. I always add about a 2 liters of hot water too as I find that is extra effective. Let soak about an hour. The to wash simply move the plunger up and down for a about 10 minutes. Then rinse in a separate tub and hang to dry. Before each piece of clothing took about 5 minutes. Now all of them take about 10. I'm able to fit a pair of pants, couple shorts, couple shirts, t-shirt, 3 underwear and 2 pair socks all in one load.
My clothes have never been cleaner and it's super easy. Maybe 20 minutes tops per week for all my clothes. This works exactly like an electrical wash machine except you provide the power. The water and clothes and soap all mix together and agitate each other and rub against each other just like they do in your mom's wash machine back in the good old USA. It's brilliant.
After I made the plunger I found out there's actually a whole line of commercial
products you can buy on Amazon to replace the plunger. Look up "magic washing wand" or something like that and read the reviews yourself. I love my little plunger washer. Highly recommended if you can find the materials.
Also side note, I always do my washing inside now whereas before I did it outside. It can get a bit messy, but hcns here would laugh at me if they saw my style (Im a guy). They generally think I have no idea how to do household chores and scrutinize basically everything I do already. But for me at least and my skill set, my clothes are 10 times cleaner than when I was hand washing.
EDIT: link to the commercial version you can buy on Amazon. Fwiw, I still use a toliet plunger and its fine
https://www.amazon.com/EasyGoProducts-Hand-Powered-Clothes-Washing/dp/B00YQCOCAM
I keep my 105lb lab/Pitt mix in my back seat. Sometimes will double him up with my brother’s 100lb Bernie’s Mountain dog.
I use a dog hammock. I’m a clean freak too, so with this, ppf on the door sills, interior sprays and microfibers, and a battery dust buster, the interior stays flawless.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0769YMHSC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071XB18BF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0SM1Cb81N347Z
I've never regretted it for a second. I have two kids (1 and 4) I wasn't sure if the white dash would be broght/ distracting but it's not at all and I love it so much. Also EVERYONE thinks it's awesome. Plus it cleans very very well.
I use chemical guys CarGuys Super Cleaner - Effective All Purpose Cleaner - Best for Leather Vinyl Carpet Upholstery Plastic Rubber and Much More! - 18 oz Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071XB18BF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-yEZDbPHFR6W5
Works like a magic. I just spray on microfiber and whip down a few times a month. KEEP THE WHITE😎
CarGuys Super Cleaner - Effective... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071XB18BF?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
My friend who details cars recommended this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/Tuff-Stuff-Multi-Purpose-Cleaner-ounces/dp/B0009PCPNQ
It works great. You can use it on pretty much any surface in the car. It got cream cheese out of the perforated leatherette seats, and glue that dripped when I got a new windshield installed off of the steering column.
Amazon sells the stuff they use in bowling alleys for shoes or something similar. I used it for a pair of boots that I couldn't pass up. I'd imagine, too, that sandals (if they're open enough) would be a little bit safer at least with regard to athlete's foot than something enclosed.
10-Seconds Shoe Deodorizer and Disinfectant - The Only EPA-Approved Shoe Disinfectant effective against Bacteria, Fungus, Mold, and Mildew https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QCOF1M?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Bar Keeper's Friend--sprinkle some on, and then scrub with a damp sponge. It's magic, I tell you. Magic.
I'm not sure since I haven't compared them in so long. I would play it safe and assume about 1/3 or 1/4th as much to start if you're worried about damaging things. Another awesome one I found that gets rid of hard water stains and caramelized oil on pans is this. (It's about half that price in the store) and no added fragrances or other garbage.
I soak them in hot water and use some powdered Bar Keeper's Friend surface cleaner, it really seems to work better for me than Goo Gone and doesn't carry that cirtusy smell. It also does wonders for dirty stoves, sinks, and counter tops.
As nice as cast iron is, if you ever want to make any kind of pan sauce after you've cooked your protein that might involve wine or vinegar or lemon juice, you'd be out of luck. I'd go with a good, heavy traditional-finish skillet with some sort of clad construction for optimal even heating across the surface. As far as that sticking issue goes, you don't have to use as much oil as long as your skillet is already heated before you put any food in it. In some cases (not all), meat in a traditional finish skillet will stick at first but release from the surface right around the time it's supposed to be flipped or turned, which is perfectly normal anyway.
One of the other perks of a traditional finish skillet is fond -- a.k.a., the stuck-on brown bits left in the pan after you've cooked your food. All those brown (not blackened, that's too far) bits = flavorful awesomeness, and are key in making a good pan sauce to go with whatever you're making. Deglaze the pan with a bit of broth or wine or whatever and scrape up the brown bits with a wooden spoon, throw some butter and herbs in there, baby, you got a sauce goin'. (Plus, this makes cleaning the pan later a lot easier, since you're using what would otherwise be "mess" to your advantage.")
Problem is, good-quality stainless steel skillets are expensive, and the drop-off in price represents a really steep drop-off in quality, which would of course give you worse results in cooking and make you less likely to want to use one anyway. One thing to watch out for is skillets with disk bottoms, where the only place the manufacturers put the highly conductive aluminum core which appears in most stainless steel cookware in a disk on the bottom of the skillet. These are the cheapest options, but the problem is the sides of the pan don't heat up as evenly or as well as the bottom, which results in uneven cooking if you're using the entire surface of the pan. Better to go with a "clad" pan -- one in which the entire skillet is made out of a layer of aluminum sandwiched between stainless steel. Better conduction, more even heating, better performance, better food. Yes, clad skillets are more expensive (~$110 versus ~$50 for a disk bottom), but 1) Cooking.com, etc. run sales on these things all the time, and 2) as long as you take good care care of them (Bar Keeper's Friend works wonders for me), there's no reason why they shouldn't last a lifetime -- definitely worth the investment.
Looks like it could be some hard water staining. I agree with the barkeepers friend. it will bring it back to life. it won't even take much scrubbing to clear that up. You can get it at Walmart or most grocery stores.
You want the powder cleanser. the liquid cleaner is shite! this is what it looks like. it's really cheap like a dollar something per canister.
https://www.amazon.com/Bar-Keepers-Friend-Powdered-12-Ounces/dp/B000V72992/
Bar-keeper's friend and elbow grease.That is sure to clean this up real nice.
https://www.amazon.com/Bar-Keepers-Friend-Powdered-12-Ounces/dp/B000V72992
I came here to say this. All of my pots look brand new! Barkeeper's Friend is a staple in my kitchen.
I have All-Clad. Pick up some Barkeeper's Friend it'll clean up the pans fast!
Also, medium heat for steak is a little low. I have an electric range and end up setting 7 out of 10. Basically, let the pan heat up. Then toss a few drops of water into the pan. If the water dances around on the surface, then it's ready for your oil and within a few seconds of heating up the oil, the steak.
For stainless you need bar keepers friend, takes off anything on stainless steel cookware with minimal elbow grease (burnt egg, milk, w/e just a minute of scrubbing). A magic eraser works wonders as well.
This is the answer. If you've got a lot of minis, just buy a big jug of it. If your minis are plastic, this is really the only answer. Put them into a glass jar filled above their heads with SG and give it a good swishing around every 24hrs. The longer you leave it in, the easier the paint will come off. Most stuff is easily taken care of by 24-48hrs, but if your model has a lot of deep nooks and crannies you might want to consider giving it a week. But as /u/Grammar_Cowboy pointed out, you can always clean them, then throw them back in for another soak too. Of note, the SG doesn't need to be drained after each batch of minis. You can reuse a full container multiple times.
I you want to break the minis down to re-glue, re-pose, or whatever, leave them in the SG for about a week. It'll make the glue very brittle and the pieces can then be carefully snapped off and the dried glue removed with a hobby knife or needle-nose pliers (my weapon of choice).
If the minis are metal, acetone (nail polish remover) works even better. It'll strip the paint and turn the glue into a soft, almost gel-like consistency. Which can then be easily cleaned off. The only downside it acetone will literally dissolve plastic. If your minis are on a base, the base will turn into a soggy, soupy mess.
Windex on leading edges. Dissolves bug guts with ease.
Glass: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/aeroplexall.php
100LL or kerosene on the belly, cuts through petroleum-based grime like none other.
Simple Green Aviation anywhere else: https://www.amazon.com/Simple-Green-13406-Aircraft-Precision/dp/B001VXU7OE
For a super quick waxy shine, I slather kerosene on the paint and wipe dry. Leaves a deep gloss finish that looks nice for a day or two. Good if you want to show the plane or you know people will be taking a look.
Simple Green 13406 Extreme Aircraft and Precision Cleaner
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001VXU7OE/
I would try soaking them in a degreaser solution like Purple Power or something similar that isn't solvent based.
Something solvent-based might react with the balls' polymers.
Have you tried this putty stuff? I have heard it works quite well, but I haven't used it myself.
http://www.amazon.com/Cyber-Clean-25055-Office-Pop-up/dp/B00375JBL4
No major problems here but Cyber Clean works wonders
Probably Cyber Clean or something similar. https://www.amazon.com/Cyber-Clean-25055-Office-Pop-up/dp/B00375JBL4
Use silly putty or something like this. DO NOT USE compressed air anywhere. Not on the mics or speakers, it can blow out their diaphragm.
A Dollar Store tooth brush works well scrubbing out the dash buttons and recesses on the shifter.
Get some microfiber cleaning cloths at BB&B
I like this stuff
https://www.amazon.com/SuperClean-Degreaser-Biodegradable-Phosphate-Industrial/dp/B0039ZBLEC/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_bs_lp_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=8GQ01XSPGK0PB437QQHN
Wheels can be the time consuming part, but the most fun.
My set-up for wheels & tires:
Tuf Shine Tire Brush:
This is better than Mother's Tire Brush, just does the job better. Obsessed Garage talked about it, it's bound to be good.
SuperClean Degreaser:
I like this one because the smell isn't as strong as Meguiar's Wheel Brightener, and I can use it for both wheel and tires at once. Scott from Dallas Paint Correction & Auto Detailing recommend this one and it's hard to look back after using it. Buy a small bottle first before buying a gallon to see if you like it.
Wheel Woolies:
I hesitated to spend $50 on these brushes, but after buying them I had no regrets. You don't get the splash back from other wheel brushes.
Black Wash Mitt:
I used to use this one but I find that using a black microfiber mitt for the face of the wheel and in between the spokes made it a lot faster, and you can get behind the spokes too. But that brush is useful for lug nuts though.
Creeper Seat: This is a nice to have if you're working on a flat surface. Nice to have but not a necessity.
Get something a long these lines.
Barkeepers Friend: Bar Keepers Friend Powdered Cleanser 21-Ounces (2-Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008EN9XUI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pZiADbGKDFJQZ
Try goo gone? It worked for me. Get some on amazon here
Not OP, but have T/A. I use this Chemical Guys spray after washes which gives it a nice sheen and removes spots. The only pain is that the surface is supposed to be cool when applying so can’t really apply on an afternoon wash.
Other than that the matte isn’t too bad, just shows spots real easy between washes. I have a few green spots bleeding through on the top of my bumper from rock chips unfortunately too.
Evaporust works:
https://www.amazon.com/Evapo-Rust-Original-Water-based-Non-Toxic-Biodegradable/dp/B00GRSOJSS
https://www.amazon.com/Evapo-Rust-Super-Remover-Non-Toxic-Removes/dp/B00GRSOJSS
I would suggest washing in a bucket because it's easier to swirl around and scrub the clothes. This should help with the musty smell. You can wash your clothes with a bar of Zote or Fells Naptha which is $1 at Walmart and should last a few months. In the longer term, you might want to invest in a washing board, washing wand or manual washer.
Can you line dry? I think it's one of the best ways to dry clothes and your only costs would be a line and some clothes pins. If you can't line dry, maybe a drying rack would work. In the long term a port
If line drying isn't an option
I often wash my by hand like you describe if there's only a few because I hate to waste so much water using the washing machine. I recently bought a hand wash plunger type thing to prewash my towels in a 6.5 gallon bucket. I like it a lot!
I have this one and really like it so far, I just spray it on microfiber and wipe down
car guys super cleaner
This stuff: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071XB18BF
I can't speak for using it on suede, but Tuff Stuff is my go-to for cleaning carpet stains. You should be able to find it locally, just linking so you know what to look for.
this is what i use on my seats. works pretty well and gets a lot of weird stuff off. i had these weird white marks from the factory and the tuff stuff did the trick. cheaper at walmart or home depot though. might want to try those places before amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Tuff-Stuff-Multi-Purpose-Cleaner-ounces/dp/B0009PCPNQ
this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009PCPNQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GJ3EJS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
worked pretty well for me
http://www.amazon.com/Spicy-World-Citric-Acid-5-Pound/dp/B000OZFECU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397684913&sr=8-1&keywords=citric+acid
$1.97 for 7.5 oz is $4.02/lb.
If you wanted to buy from Amazon you can get 5lbs @ $2.98/lb and not have to worry about finding it in stock.
(not trying to criticize you - just wanted to provide a link that may be helpful to others)
There are shoe disinfectant sprays, if you were okay with buying something. About $10 on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/10-Seconds-Shoe-Deodorizer-Disinfectant-EPA-Approved/dp/B000QCOF1M
try this
You can also try Borax, which is a slightly different form of Boric acid, and may be easier to find. Also, some ants are more attracted to protein than sugar, so try mixing one batch using jelly and a second batch with peanut butter, and see which one the ants go for.
Get borax here https://www.amazon.ca/Mule-Borax-Laundry-Booster-00368-136549/dp/B000R4LONQ/190-1372441-8275909?ie=UTF8&tag=diynatural02-20 and powdered sugar here https://www.amazon.ca/Domino-Powdered-Confectioners-Sugar-16oz/dp/B0019N2EQU?ie=UTF8&tag=diynatural02-20. Its a little bit on the expensive side.
First, clean out the car. Be meticulous.
Next, get a shitton of borax. Spread it EVERYWHERE. That stuff is abrasive and will scrape little holes in an exoskeleton, leaving the roaches to dry out.
The borax will be gross and it will get all over the place, but it's the most reliable way to get the job done.
this stuff? http://www.amazon.com/Borax-Laundry-Booster-76-Box/dp/B000R4LONQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381027469&sr=8-1&keywords=borax
I'll add to this reply with saying you should isolate a problolmatic cartridge, open it up, clean the contacts with 99% alcohol and a cotton swab. If the contacts aren't shiny then I take a little Bar Keepers Friend, dab a paper towel with it and scrub over the same area. This picks up any residue preventing a proper connection to the contact pins. In my experience my pins have always been good but the cartridges contacts had a residue on them that was nearly impossible to clean off without Bar Keepers Friend.
Anyways, I'm still looking for a place that sells Bar Keepers Friend. If anyone here knows where to buy one, please let me know :D Cheers.
Bar Keeper's Friend works really well too.
Pick some up some Bar Keepers Friend (https://www.amazon.com/Bar-Keepers-Friend%C2%AE-Cleanser-Polish/dp/B000V72992) and some copper or steel wool.
Get in there good, then season. You'll need to dry it immediately after use.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000V72992/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_UFOiDbH7BM527
Bar Keepers friend. Should work.
Cleaning:
I've gotten cleaning down to two products: Bar Keepers Friend and 7th Generation Powdered Dish Soap. These products are basically magic, if you allow them time to work. BKF works on things that are baked or burned in and for use on metal (except aluminium) and glass. Sprinkle BKF over the area to be cleaned, wet it until it's paste like, then walk away for 30 minutes or so. When you come back, re-wet it if it's not still wet, and use a paper towel to polish off the stain. Usually comes right up with very little elbow grease. Same principle applies to 7thGen. Fill your kettle/carboy/whatever with water and add about a tablespoon of powder per gallon of water. Let it sit overnight. I've yet to find grime that will stand up to it. It's magic works on a combination of what is basically oxyclean free and enzymatic cleaners. Much in the same way enzymes break up starch in malt to make it into sugar, these enzymes break up proteins and junk to release it from whatever is clinging to it. The only gotcha here is the enzymes have a shelf life, so you can't let it sit around forever. If you use it in other household cleaning, you can go through it at a fair pace and always have an opportunity to freshen up your supply.
Sanitation:
StarSan is clearly everyone's favorite sanitizer, but I do worry a bit about it's effectiveness over the long term with organisms building up resistance to it. I currently try to cycle in Saniclean every now and again, which has some of the same ingredient as StarSan, but uses a slightly different chemical to help keep the foam down while still sanitizing. I'd love to find out if someone has found another product as effective as these two that isn't iodine or chlorine based. In the mean time, to help keep things shaken up, I use heat where ever possible to add in an additional layer of sanitation. A pro brewer once told me cycling 180F water through your system for 15 minutes will kill just about anything you have to worry about. Seems solid and I like the fact it isn't an additional chemical.
Sterilization:
I only really use this for canning wort right now, but a pressure cooker is a nice thing to have. I've also been known to use tyndallization on items that might not quite make it through the pressure cooker. If anyone is regularly sterilizing things, I'd be interested in hearing what you're sterilizing, what method you're using (heat, steam, gas, ultrasonic, etc.), and why.
edit : Fixed the linking I think.
Barkeeper's Friend. Works like a charm.
Seriously Barkeeper's Friend is my favorite cleaner. I use it on my glasstop, my stainless steel cookware, my knives...it's amazing!
This is what I have always done. It cleans them well. I have also used Bar Keepers Friend and had great results. I have the cheap Orgreenic pans and have been using them for the last three years or so and they still work great. My only real complaint about them is that I wish they were a bit thicker.
Highly rated pan right here. Remember to use wooden or plastic spatulas if you want to keep it looking pretty. Metal spatulas will scratch the hell out of it, but honestly doesn't affect the performance of the pan. Also, Barkeeper's Friend is the best thing for cleaning it.
Did you try scrubbing it or did you just pour the bleach/cleaners in and let them soak. That pink stuff looks like biofilm. Most of that should come off with some comet or other cleaner and some scrubbing.
If not, drain the toilet by shutting off the water supply and flushing it. Then scrub it with a pumice stone like someone else suggested or Bar keepers friend. http://www.amazon.com/Bar-Keepers-Friend%C2%AE-Cleanser-Polish/dp/B000V72992/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420410568&sr=8-1&keywords=bar+keeper%27s+friend+cleaner
if it's rust then bleach wont work as it just further oxidizes the iron.
Girl you need to get some Barkeeper's Friend pronto. It is amazing stuff and so cheap too.
Also works really well in the kitchen, like for anything covered in cooked-on grease or even for stainless steel cookware that is discolored.
It appears it's only available in the U.S., Canada, and Puerto Rico.
However, if Amazon will ship to you... http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000V72992
Everything else, crock pots, even measuring cups, is optional. Slow cookers, microwaves, electric kettles, and rice cookers are all nice, but there is nothing you can make in them that you can't make in a pot, like humans did for thousands of years. You'll want measuring cups for baking, but for cooking you're adjusting on the fly anyways.
Bar Keepers Friend
I just got a stainless set for Christmas this past year. I was really excited but also terrified, then I did some research. The key to stainless steel cooking is heat the pan first before adding ANYTHING. I believe the adage is hot pan, cold fat.
So, say you want to cook something over medium-high heat.
I can even scramble eggs in my skillets and they slide out like nothing. You'll notice after a little practice that these babies are, when used properly, less prone to stick than something with a non-stick coating, unless of course you burn the shit out of it. :)
Also, for cleaning, let the pan cool before you wash it. My favorite things to use are either no scratch Scotch Brite pads or Scotch Brite Dobies but in most cases I don't really need to scrub. That being said, you're going to encounter situations where you burn things or the fat oxidizes on your pans and for this, hands down, get some Bar Keepers Friend. It's the best thing ever.
You can get it on Amazon cheap:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000V72992/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_T1
I bought some after I burned oil in my stainless steel pan.
Simple Green is your friend.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017D1GG6?ref_=wms_ohs_product&redirect=true&psc=1&pldnSite=1
This ^ will last you a long time. I clean my discs with it to remove the squeak also.
This http://www.amazon.com/Park-CM-5-2-Cyclone-Chain-Scrubber/dp/B007HDNOT2/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1398709921&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=park+tool+chain+cleaner plus simple green = a super chain cleaning.
Also a little car paint detailer keeps it shiny shiny.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IQXAE?ref_=sr_1_cc_2&s=aps&qid=1398709624&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=meguires%20detailer&pldnSite=1
Just spray it into a rag and not directly onto the frame to prevent over spray on the discs/pads.
As others have mentioned, a good lube (Boeshield T9 for example) should be matched to your riding conditions and applied.
http://www.amazon.com/Boeshield-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1398709998&sr=1-1&keywords=boeshield+t-9
This is what I use. But my understanding is that any degreaser concentrate works, but some can eat or deteriorate plastic.
Simple Green 11001CT Clean Building All-Purpose Cleaner Concentrate, 1gal Bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0017D1GG6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_yx3RybSCJ4WEJ
I understand completely. I've had a couple of dragon figures for 15+ years that I'm too intimidated to paint. Don't be too afraid of messing up. There's always the option of a bath in Simple Green if you need to start over. Just let them soak overnight and the paint will come right off without hurting the plastic.
fool proof, get a Vallejo wash and just brush it on real fast. I would buy a can of primer from wal-mart first and go over them real fast prior to doing the wash though, krylon is easily the best spray on primer for minis.
alternatively you can dip it in some wood stain and that works pretty well.
and if you mess up, just submerge the messed up mini in a simple green bath overnight and clean it with a toothbrush, and it is ready for a redo.
edit: if you want more detailed info /r/minipainting may be a good resource for you
it's probably just dirt. get yourself some of this stuff. and a good microfibre cloth and spray it on the cloth and wipe clean it. don't ever spray anything directly on your machine, you can liquid damage it, and don't clean the computer w/ anything other than this stuff. (this is just my professional opinion, i'm sure that there are other cleaning products out there, but i will only use iKlear)
harsh chemicals in commercial cleaning products will damage the finish. you can use iKlear to clean the outside and the screen, but again, spray the cloth, not the machine.
https://www.amazon.com/iKlear-8-oz-Spray-Bottle/dp/B0018CPCT8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538346259&sr=8-3&keywords=iklear
Just did the whole engine bay a few months ago. Use simple green extreme aircraft cleaner. It is the fucking tits and doesn't hurt aluminum like other cleaners. Spray it all over the engine bay, let it sit for about 5-10 minutes (the longer the better). I took it to a non-busy self-serve car wash, took the battery out, covered the distributor cap with a plastic bag and had at it with the pressure rinse. Be careful of spraying directly into electrical connectors, as they are 20-25+ years old, however, they are engineered to be around water.
I use Simple Green Aircraft and Precision Cleaner, which doesn't have some of the corrosion / embrittlement problems of regular Simple Green. Works great. Might be evil to the environment.
I would.use the simple green safe for aluminum version.
https://www.amazon.com/Extreme-Aircraft-Precision-Cleaner-13406/dp/B001VXU7OE
I also use dish soap for a lot of things.
I messed up the paint job on my resin mini with a gob of sealer. I used Purple Power cleaner; soaked it for 24 hours and it didn’t dissolve the mini. Here’s a link: https://www.amazon.com/4320P-Industrial-Strength-Cleaner-Degreaser/dp/B002HU5N4O
For sure. Ospho takes the gloss out of your topside paint and makes it all chalky, which makes the soot from your stacks stick even better. This doesn't take the gloss out, but we only use it on rust streaks, not general cleaning. For general wash-down, check out Purple Power. This stuff is so much better than CitruClean, Simple Green, or Ospho. It wasn't on our approved list of chemicals for the longest time but we would buy it with our own money and bring it to work. Pro-tip: finish your wash down with some of that spray-on/rinse-off wax like they use in the carwash, and you won't have to work nearly so hard next time. My last boat was 130' long and we had a crew of 4. That's a lot of boat to clean.
https://www.amazon.ca/Cyber-Clean-High-tech-Cleaning-Compound/dp/B00375JBL4
http://www.amazon.com/Cyber-Clean-25055-Office-Pop-up/dp/B00375JBL4
Cyber clean is my best friend.
Cyber Clean 25055 Home & Office Pop-up Cup - 5.11 oz. (145g) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00375JBL4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_sIGOCb5Q90FRS
So this is me using "GateWayXs" solution of that putty, while cleaning my keyboard. Didn't even know it happened. I wonder what else I did...
SuperClean has worked wonders for me! I soak my models for 48-72 hours then go at them with a denture brush. Paints easily strip off while the primer remains intact. It can also be useful to dismantle models. After about a week or two of soaking, you can pull apart a model like you're separating lego pieces. So far, I've only used it with GW plastic, but for that, it works great!
I use super clean, works well, let the plastic soak for a day, then brush them under warm running water with a tooth brush.
https://www.amazon.com/SuperClean-Multi-Surface-Degreaser-Biodegradable-Concentrate/dp/B0039ZBLEC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538956711&sr=8-3&keywords=super+clean
If you have issue with *any* stain on glass use Super Clean .. its not specific for glass i believe and i use it on any stubborn grime/dirt/etc..
Source : i have very hard water 280 PPM , contains sulfur ..(btw i dont use it for my aqua.)
I believe it's called Super Clean?
Purple spray bottle.
Here it is: http://www.amazon.com/o/ASIN/B0039ZBLEC?tag=adapas02-20
Shit is ridiculous, cleans anything off anything. My engine bay is spotless, all my caps and every piece of plastic and whatever it cleaned like new. I even used it instead of sandpaper to remove paint from my hood scoop before plastidipping.
Oleophobic coating definitely wore off on my s8+ as well as my note 8. Bought a glass wax (Smittys Glass Wax) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004N1P3GI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_726RAbSGKDHXM which brings back that slick feel again. Upside is it only takes a few drops per application. Downside is the coating seems to only last around 3 days.
Am curious if there is a more permanent solution.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-717834209102DUPE-LeadCheck-Swabs-8-Pack/dp/B008BK15PU
I doubt it but you can test it
I don't know how well I can answer your questions, as I'm new to lead issues and abatement. You've probably educated yourself on a lot of what I'm going to say, but I'm going to throw it all in this comment, anyway.
I live in a 110 year old house that is basically a ball of lead. The plumbing had lead joints, the service line is old and lead, the windows have lead, the doors have lead, the walls have lead, and the city is concerned that our water mains are shedding lead. And now, my child has a very slightly elevated lead level. Prompted by her most recent blood test, we are attempting a sensible lead abatement plan for our home.
First, figure out where the lead is. You can pick up water testing kits as well as swabs for surfaces. Once you know where the lead is, you can assess your risk and choose an abatement plan.
For instance, we have a small amount of lead in our water, which is likely a consequence of the service line. We got a bid for replacing it, and that was about $10k, plus the cost of fixing the yard that would be torn up. We went with a 10 year filter for the whole house, and that was about $900 including tax and installation.
Use the surface swabs on your windows that were installed before 1980, and if you have woodwork that was painted white, check that, too. It became popular to paint dark woodwork white in the 50s/60s to brighten up houses, and people used lead paint. We have solid wood doors and a ton of trim that is absolutely smothered in many coats of paint, and sure enough, it's super leady.
With windows, the act of opening and closing the windows can cause friction on the paint, which produces inhalable dust. If your family isn't experiencing significantly elevated lead levels, you have the option to simply wipe down the windows with a damp cloth to remove the dust. If you are more concerned, have the budget, or just want new windows, you can replace them. Check to see if your local municipality has a lead abatement grant for windows. In my city, they offer a $350/window grant to replace windows that test positive for lead (along with a few other qualifiers), and that really puts a dent in that cost.
With other painted surfaces, you're likely to be fine with encapsulation, which is a fancy way of saying painting over it. Lead is only really dangerous if you inhale the dust or eat the chips, so if you paint over it, it can't create dust. This will likely mean that you'll need to do a little scraping, which will obviously create dust, so you need to use a quality mask, and then clean like mad when you are done. Wet mop, dry dusting/sweeping is not good enough.
I'm in the process of restoring the woodwork because I prefer a stained finish, and for all the trim that isn't especially decorative or historically significant, I'm just replacing it. For our lovely doors, I sent them out to be dip stripped because it just wasn't worth the risk of my daughter sucking in all the dust while I removed the paint.
Because I have a young child, I'm not fucking around with lead, but the majority of people with lead paint in their homes are going to be just fine if they don't sand lead paint, carefully wipe up the dust with a wet cloth in areas that have lead paint (like windows), and prime/paint over the lead paint.
Get yourself some lead test strips. and also get an actual respirator. Dust masks don't do shit to protect against lead.
Lead can fuck you up, protect yourself.
Yes
There are lead test kits you can get pretty cheap on Amazon. You'll get results within a minute
http://www.amazon.com/3M-717834209102DUPE-LeadCheck-Swabs-8-Pack/dp/B008BK15PU
You can test the paint you're worried about with a kit at home. It's not very accurate, but will definitely tell you if there is lead in those paint chips.
If there is lead in there, get your blood tested. If you don't have symptoms of chronic lead poisoning, there's probably not much to worry about. But it's always nice to know for sure.
You can also use one of these to test for lead
http://www.amazon.com/3M-717834209102DUPE-LeadCheck-Swabs-8-Pack/dp/B008BK15PU
Also available at your local hardware store for a little more.
These are the test strips, they're mostly used for lead paint and sold at most hardware stores too. The blood lead test is a simple blood draw, just tell your primary care doctor that you may have had some chronic lead exposure recently and want to be sure you didn't get too much in you. You're probably fine, but it's best to get checked so in case you were significantly exposed via your clothes/toiletries/etc it can be treated.
get some Bon Ami powder cleaner or Bar Keepers Friend. Use with lots of water and see if that will take it off. It MUST be one of those two. DO NOT USE COMET OR ANY OTHER POWDERED CLEANER IT WILL SCRATCH YOUR GLASS. You can find it at Walmart or Target or any major retailer.
Goo Gone adhesive remover or rubbing alcohol over 90%
Yeah it works pretty well. Soak the label and the whole thing and all the sticky will come off easily. Like nair for overly sticky stickers
Edit: this should be a link?
Goo Gone Original - 2 Ounce - Surface Safe Adhesive Remover Safely Removes Stickers Labels Decals Residue Tape Chewing Gum Grease Tar https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009M14C4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VNtvCbT3PJTX0
I bought a new 50th Anniversary Camaro, which has a Matte section on the hood. I've been searching and reading the wiki, and just want to verify or get better recommendations than what I think I've found.
I first need to wash the car with a matte wash, so I don't get any glossifiers or waxes on the matte section. I found Chemical Guys CWS_995_16 Meticulous Matte Auto Wash, but wasn't sure if there were other recommendations.
After that, I should use a matte sealant like Chemical Guys WAC_203_16 Blue JetSeal Matte Sealant and Paint Protectant.
Then for touch-ups use Chemical Guys SPI_995_16 Meticulous Matte Detailer and Spray Sealant.
With that done, I should tape off the matte section, and care for the rest of the car with regular wax, clay, and sealant as covered in various threads and the wiki here. For the tape, I see some recommend 3M 233+ painter's tape, while others say CarPro Masking Tape. Is there a significant difference between them?
Does that sound correct?
303 Aerospace should work great it's a cleaner and protectant, but you might also like Nextzett which I posted above.
For matte paint/PPF I would recommend Chemical Guys Meticulous Matte Quick Detailer: https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-SPI_995_16-Meticulous-Detailer/dp/B00FQHY64S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1535948037&sr=8-1&keywords=quick+detailer+for+matte
For towels, I like:
Plush for cleaning: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BQYCKE8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Miscellaneous Disposable (not for dirty surfaces since they are low plush): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00937YLE2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Waffle weave for drying: https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-MIC_781_01-Waffle-Microfiber/dp/B00BQYCIVI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1535948166&sr=8-3&keywords=microfiber+drying
Lint free for glass: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WC5KQGE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Looking great ! what cleaner do you use for your wipe down? I have been using this one http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-SPI99516-Meticulous-Detailer/dp/B00FQHY64S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453325921&sr=8-1&keywords=chemical+guys+matte in between washes, mostly for bird poop.
Do yourself a favor and pick up some Chemical Guys matte wash and detailer. I have a 2015 Gunner with the matte green finish and that stuff works wonders. Don't need a lot of the wash either to get the job done. Also, don't go cheap on some good quality microfiber clothes, with the matte finish, don't have a whole lot of protective coating so can easily be scratched.
Yep, its not a great lubricant but its perfect for getting rust off tools. If that doesn't work, Evapo Rust will do the trick. I use it for restoring old tools, but its probably overkill for something like this. WD-40 should work fine.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Evapo-Rust-C700-Rust-Remover-946/dp/B00GRSOJSS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1517864682&sr=8-2&keywords=evaporust
Put some in a spray bottle and hose the area, soak a rag and put it against the rust. Take a piece of painters tape to hold the rag in place. Let it sit overnight. Wash with soapy water and dry. Repeat as required. Any parts you can pull off and dunk overnight will remove a lot more. This will remove the surface rust but will not undo any pitting. As to the chain don't try to remove the rust. Leave it obvious or replace the chain that is a safety issue.
Evapo-Rust
They sell it at Harbor Freight as well.
Check out some Youtube videos as well.
I've heard nothing but great things about it.
Let us know how you make out bud.
There's a lot of stuff out there you can use. But given that you're indoors and can't easily remove the bar to take it outside, there are fewer options, but still some. My personal recommendation is Evapo Rust:
https://www.amazon.com/Evapo-Rust-ER004-Super-Safe-Remover/dp/B00GRSOJSS
It's a lot safer and less toxic than other common chemicals used to remove rust, which is important because you're using it indoors.
You may want these other tools in case abrasive action is needed:
You might not need all of them, but just see how it goes.
Edit: Make sure you soak the rusted areas of the rod as much as you can. If it's light rust, most should disappear in 30 minutes, but if it's heavy it's supposed to sit overnight (preferably soaking in the stuff, but that might not be possible unless you can remove the bar). Wipe off with water, and use a wire brush to clean up anything left on.
Additionally, protect the shower from future rust by applying a thin layer of mineral oil to it periodically.
Edit 2: I found some information on the internet that suggested you can even use vinegar to remove rust. Use what you want. I think Evapo Rust is superior. Some people say vinegar can kind of turn metal kind of a gray matte and not shiny. To keep the rod soaked, you can saturate paper towels, wrap them around the shower rod, and then wrap aluminum foil around it and leave it there for however long (preferably overnight).
If you decide to replace it, maybe go with something low maintenance like plastic or something corrosion-resistant like galvanized steel.
Dowels and chopsticks with sandpaper wrapped around them, and a Dremel with a variety of stones. It's gonna be a labor of love.
Proluxe is good, but it's really just a deck stain. And the semitransparent is a water based acrylic... you're not gonna like the finish it gives you on that beautiful old hardwood. It'll look like plastic. I'd personally go with an Old Masters penetrating stain (you can go with a wiping stain if you wanna tone down the grain a little... wiping stain will give you a little more of the semitransparent look) followed by a spar finish (3 coats, applied with sponge brushes, light sand with 220 between coats - juuuuust kiss it with the sandpaper). It'll give the door a richer and longer lasting finish than a simple coat of deck stain, and the spar is UV protectant.
I'd use Evaporust or Metal Rescue on any of the ironwork that can be removed and allowed to soak (with both products, you strain the soak and pour it back into the jug - it's reusable several times). After the rust removal soak, clean with acetone and use a self-etching primer. For anything you can't remove and soak, use Rust Reformer after wire brushing instead of a simple primer for tough surfaces - it converts surface rust to magnetite to stabilize it. Then proceed with your black color coat. After the black, spray with a couple coats of satin clear. All the paints I linked are available at any auto parts store and Walmart, and I believe Home Depot carries Metal Rescue.
That's a gorgeous door. Take pictures and post a project gallery!
Edit: added that Proluxe semitransparent is water based.
Yep...as soon as I saw it I thought of this doohickey I considered buying at one point.
​
CarGuys Super Cleaner - Effective All Purpose Cleaner - Best for Leather Vinyl Carpet Upholstery Plastic Rubber and Much More! - 18 oz Kit https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B071XB18BF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_s-GvCbG820P3M
I've never used the RainX foam, so I have no way to compare.
For the interiors, I use Car Guys Super Cleaner. Works great. I have been avoiding touching the sound bar fabric out of fear of damaging it, so I'm afraid I haven't got any advice on how to clean it.
Car Guys All Purpose Cleaner and the micro fiber towel it comes with!
I wear black jeans and sometimes I see greyish marks on the seats and this cleaner makes everything go away. Make sure you spray the microfiber cloth then wipe down. You probably could spray the seats directly but I always just use the cloth.
I had the beige cloth in my 2015 and had to clean them a lot. Water left spots on those seats! My favorite product I found is this cleaner from The Car Guys.
I bought it mostly for the dash, but came to find it worked great on the seats as well. Some set in stains came out super easy. Has a really light smell too, so doesn’t leave your car smelling of cleaner.
Same. Except I got mine from amazon. I wonder if I can use the original screen with this one laid over it ?
Jianuo Adjustable Sandwich Pusher and 3D Bottom Screen for pax2 & pax 3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C7RLWF4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_FUD3BbM9GRE13
Blue Funnel and tamper: https://www.amazon.com/Quintessentialz-Funnel-Custom-Tamp-Tool/dp/B074PBBFFM/ref=sr_1_3?gclid=Cj0KCQjww47nBRDlARIsAEJ34bkKrQqyPjC4wXgPgvF20m4A7dwH7EtaiK0CzGelnaQ3Fh_oNxhUS8AaAllXEALw_wcB&hvadid=261954288188&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9021407&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=8235567249276677294&hvtargid=kwd-431825393667&hydadcr=24663_9649017&keywords=pax+3+funnel&qid=1558467524&s=gateway&sr=8-3
And I no longer used the half pack lid. I use a sandwich pusher:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C7RLWF4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Seriously-this works amazingly-
Tuff Stuff Multi Purpose Foam Cleaner for Deep Cleaning - 22 oz. (1.37 lbs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009PCPNQ/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_8DuZtb0NSFYV3SN8
Try TuffStuff cleaner, good for upholstery!
Goo Gone. I also really like Tough Stuff. It's cleaned crap that Goo Gone didn't.
Tuff Stuff Multi Purpose Foam Cleaner for Deep Cleaning - 22 oz. (1.37 lbs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009PCPNQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kyQExb7DNPAA4
Griot's Garage would be my go to general interior cleaner. Virtually no odor, no residue and cleans phenomenally.
Chemical Guys make a decent product as well. I wouldn't say it's an as effective cleaner as Griot's but does offer UV protection. CG's cleaner does have a fruity smell (fades after a few hours) and is colored as well.
Haven't had to use it in the BRZ (thankfully) but in past cars and friends, for the suuuuper filthy or large stains, Tuff Stuff's Foam Cleaner is a go to.
Other than that, compressed air for the nooks and crannies.
when you clean fabric seats you certainly dont want to soak the seat when the shampoo dries alot of times the dirt will float back up to the surface
i would reccomend tuff stuff its foam so you coat the seat, let it sit for like 30 seconds and scrub with a towel. you may need several applications to get the seat clean...tuff stuff is also the only thing ive found to actually clean suede and not ruin the material
This took some really old stains out of my Jeep before I sold it
Last week I was doing a food delivery and this curry sauce leaked all over my passenger seat. Was a ton of it.
When I got home I soaked it all up with paper towels.
Then I took some laundry detergent and water and rubbed it in the stain with a towel. After just used a wet towel to get the detergent off.
My fabric still smells... What can I do? I just bought this car a month ago.
Is this permanent? If not is there a product I can buy to get the smell out?
I found this but not sure if I should waste my money on it : https://www.amazon.com/Tuff-Stuff-Purpose-Cleaner-Cleaning/dp/B0009PCPNQ/ref=sr_1_7?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1497076610&sr=1-7&keywords=interior+cleaner
Nothing fancy, just a good brush and couple fabric cleaners. You might have to experiment a bit if you're doing it yourself.
It is super cheap, but any way you do it, you're going to need a lot of acid. You could probably just make a smaller amount and just use a ladle or something to make sure all surfaces stay wet
Yeah, the only difference is that I used the Fluval diffuser. The glass diffuser is a lot more fragile - I dropped mine and it shattered. The Fluval one is a clunky piece of plastic, but holds up well. I've been re-evaluating my setup and will be replacing my DIY system with something more robust. Before I get into why, let me go share some advice with they DIY system...
 
First off, I'd also get a check valve. This will prevent siphoned water to back up into your CO2 setup. There are bubble counter/check valve combinations, even a diffuser/counter/check valve combo.
I haven't purchased these, so I can't comment on the quality. I will say - I purchase most if not all my supplies from Amazon with great success. I always buy the least expensive equipment. Most of it I can tell comes from China, but the quality is still pretty good - it gets the job done.
 
Second, the DIY setup is good, but does not last. The DIY kit you can get on Amazon is awesome - fits right on any standard soda bottle and has a nice needle valve and pressure gauge. My problem is durability, the setup I used to create the tank I have in the picture has recently broken down. The pressure gauge ripped off (because the tubing wore down) and although I tried to reattach and seal it, there was a slow leak that I wasn't willing to try and repatch. This is the second DIY kit I've broken, they both broke at the tubing piece that connects the gauge and the bottle cap. The main reason why it breaks down is because I shake the shit out of those bottles to stir up the Baking Soda and/or Citric Acid. I never really paid attention to the pressure gauge flopping to and fro, but now I realize that after enough "fros", the tubing worn down until it tore off. So if you stick with the DIY setup, try to either not shake it like a polaroid picture - or hold the pressure gauge steady.
 
The DIY system is cool because it makes you look like Walter White and also provides a "cheap" way of getting CO2 into your tank. All you have to buy after you have your setup is Baking Soda and Citric Acid. Baking Soda, I get at Costco for cheap and is so big it will last forever. Citric Acid - I haven't really looked in depth at purchasing local - but Amazon sells these 5lb bags for $15. I think it's the best deal on Amazon. I've only bought two bags total (I tried it in my 75 gallon tank - STUPIDEST IDEA EVER - but that was when I was really new to the hobby). I'd say for a 5-10 gallon tank, 1 5lb bag of Citric Acid should last you for maybeee a year - depends on your bubbles per second obviously.
 
One major con I have for the DIY system besides durability is that it's all manual. Sure - you can figure out how to rig up a solenoid of some sort and what not to get it on a timer- but seems like more trouble than it's worth for a DIY system. I let my CO2 run 24/7 which isn't ideal - but as the picture above clearly shows - it works. The other downside of it being manual is that baking soda surprisingly doesn't mix all the way with water. So when you introduce it to the citric acid solution (which mixes well with water) - the entire reaction may not occur until you shake it and baking soda then reaches the citric acid. Having to periodically check my CO2 system isn't terribly difficult, especially if you chose the DIY setup to save money - but sometimes if too much citric acid is transferred into the Baking Soda side - a fuckton of CO2 is created and now either is pumping into my tank or my soda bottles look like they're ready to explode. I will say - this has happened to me very rarely. I've seen my soda bottles build a lot of pressure before - but never bursted. So it's not the end of the world, just an unexpected inconvenience.
 
The other major con I have is refilling. Sure refilling doesn't take that long, empty the neutral baking soda/citric acid solution and add a the the right amounts of the new solutions in. But after doing it so many times - I'm kinda tired of it. I sometimes have extra soda bottles at the ready with the solutions and unscrew the old ones and pop in the new ones. Good plan, but still takes time and effort.
 
If you're careful not to shake the tubing of the pressure gauge, content with either having CO2 run 24/7 or manually turn it on and off AND are willing to periodically refill soda bottles, then I'd say give the DIY system a shot.
 
I chose the DIY setup when I first started the hobby and wasn't sure how dedicated I would be. Also - I didn't have a great paying job that would warrant me paying more for a convenient/foolproof CO2 setup.
 
Which brings me to what I plan on doing now. Now that I'm more interested in the hobby, I've decided to step my game up. For starters, I have a 75 gallon tank rigged up to a 20 lb CO2 tank that I have to refill every 3-4 months. I live by a small hydroponics shop that refills my CO2 tank for $20. I don't know if $20 is cheap, but the store is close, convenient and gets the job done. I also attached a $40 solenoid to it so I could connect it to a timer. This setup has been AWESOME. Very simple, and 100% reliable. I just take my empty 20 lb tank to the store and get it filled and plug it back into the solenoid.
 
Because my 20lb CO2 tank setup has been so successful in my 75 gallon, I've decided to do something similar for my 5 gallon. While a 20lb CO2 tank is complete overkill - there are pretty good alternatives out there. I've looked at using the Fluval 20G CO2 kit and using Threaded CO2 Bike Tire Cartridges. The diffuser that comes with the Fluval system is huge and I would never use it. So basically I'm paying $30 for a regulator that can't even easily attach to a solenoid. Also those 16g bike tire cartridges seem small and wasteful. So your costs are $30 for the setup and ~$30 for the CO2 cartridges - which who knows how long those last. The main benefit to this setup is that it's super small. This seems like a good setup for sure and was very close to going for it, but I've decided to go with something else.
 
I'm buying a 24 oz Paintball CO2 tank ($25) , a CGA 320 Adapter (CGA 320 is the size of the standard CO2 tank threading) ($10), and a regular solenoid ($40). The prices seem reasonable except for that CGA 320 adapter piece. $10 for a piece of metal. Unfortunately, I couldn't find the same piece at Home Depot or Lowe's and I'm also lazy. So I'd rather pay the $10 then figure out how to jerry-rig my own. The adapter allows the threading of a Paintball tank to connect with the threading of a standard CO2 solenoid. Considering the Fluval setup is $60, I'd say this $75 paintball setup is worth it - especially since it now has a solenoid! The main difference is CO2 refill. Dick's Sporting Goods (also local for me) refills 24oz paintball CO2 tanks for $5 and every 5th fill is free. I think 24 oz will last me a long time anyway. In any case - I think the main obstacle whether it is using a 20lb CO2 tank or using a 24oz Paintball tank is where you're going to get that CO2 filled. You can search for a local Airgas or like a place that sells/refills Fire Extinguishers. Bars use CO2 as well for beer - but you don't need food grade CO2, that's just overpaying.
 
I know I went a little overboard, but this is all information that I've recently researched and figured I'd share it. I can't comment on the performance on the paintball tank setup just yet, but I assume it will work fine.
 
TL;DR DIY systems are cheap and good, but not 100% reliable/consistent and must be manually turned on/off/. You may or may not marry a woman named Skyler White during the process. Major costs are $15 for DIY rig, $15 for a 5lb bag of Citric Acid. I'd recommend using a 24oz Paintball CO2 tank because they can attach to a solenoid and are reliable and consistent. Major costs are $25 for a 24oz Paintball Tank, $10 for a CGA 320 Adapter, a $40 solenoid. $5 fill ups at Dick's Sporting Goods.
I really need some citric acid to finally start making bath bombs, but I'm afraid that it's too expensive (around $20) so I also need these storage containers for making yummy lip balms.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000OZFECU/
Just saw this pop up on Slickdeals. Citric acid, which a lot of people have been recommending around here for hard water to help build a better lather. I can't comment on its effectiveness since I've never bothered to try it, but figured I'd throw it up on here in case anyone is interested, since it's apparently .30 cheaper than last time it went frontpage: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OZFECU/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QCOF1M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FvHhAbQ94A6EV
Can someone recommend a disinfectant that would be effective, yet "safe" to use in shoe insoles & linings? Something more powerful than just vinegar and water, but without harmful solvents? Common products, such as Lysol and this shoe disinfectant contain alcohol.
Yeah. I'm currently using the Lysol deodorizer/disinfectant spray.
Normally I use 10-seconds shoe spray. [Amazon]
On the rare occasion that I thrift shoes, I hit them with some of this.
I have something like this but I won't buy shoes if they're really nasty :P
cheap diy indicators and treatments;
simple double sided tape along bed legs.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002O16SHW
use this powder as directed
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0085HRWI8
it may be fleas not bb.
fleas leave fewer indicators behind.
for fleas wash everything around bed with borax.
https://www.amazon.com//dp/B000R4LONQ
including floors walls in:outsides of furniture.
What you want is a compound with boric acid in it.
It's a desiccant meaning that when ingested, it will cause the ants to dry up from the inside-out.
Borax is a name for a commercial version of it: https://www.amazon.com/Borax-Mule-Team-Detergent-Booster/dp/B000R4LONQ
However, you can also find it in most ant-traps like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hyv4r0gRtVo
Most roach powders also have boric acid as the main ingredient.
It works really well, but to get them to eat it, you need to mix it with sugar/honey. What I like to do is to take small amount of flour, dissolve small amount of sugar/honey in water, and a tiny amount of boric acid and mix it into a dough. You make small balls of the stuff and leave it around where you see ants.
They eat the boric acid and bring it back to the colony and the entire colony dies by desiccation.
Ugh. For ants I do two things.
I put it in tubs poked with hole large enough for the ants to get in but way too small for the bees to get in.
After a week or so, no more ants.
Sometimes ants don't want sugar though, so you have to use a protein bait instead.
Washing soda and borax.
You can probably find 'em cheaper, those are just the first search results.
Bar keepers friend is what i use to remove surface rust on old wheels and components. it'll do wonders and is pretty cheap.
If the vinegar does not work for you, use a product with oxalic acid.
I use https://www.amazon.com/Bar-Keepers-Friend%C2%AE-Cleanser-Polish/dp/B000V72992?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0
It's Barkeeper's Friend, and don't you forget it. :P
This guy?. How do you use it as a powder? I'm assuming just mix it with water to make a paste?
Unless that's anodized aluminum, you can clean it up to look nearly brand-new with some barkeeper's friend. Don't get it from Amazon, though. You can get it cheap from your local supermarket, in the cleaning products aisle. This stuff is pretty much mandatory in restaurant kitchens. It's surprising how many people don't know about it for home use, so their pots and pans get pretty tarnished over the years, especially stainless steel and copper.
I say "nearly" brand-new because there's naturally going to be some scratches and dings. But that's what gives these things character :)
Second this
I soak my parts in this stuff and scrub after a few hours.
http://www.amazon.com/Bar-Keepers-Friend®-Cleanser-Polish/dp/B000V72992
For clean up, Try using bar keeper.
Are you adding the protein when the pan is too cold?
Another option is to deglaze the pan with wine or chicken broth and make a pan sauce.
I only use my all clad when I intend to make pan sauce. Otherwise, I use a non stick pan.
A little elbow grease and Bar's Keeper can clean anything.
http://www.amazon.com/Bar-Keepers-Friend%C2%AE-Cleanser-Polish/dp/B000V72992/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411255518&sr=8-1&keywords=bars+keep
Darn. It sounded cool. I'm not sure what area you're in, but I use Bar Keepers Friend on just about everything I can, and it works great. I don't have any cool copper stuff I can test it on, but it might be worth a shot.
Try this:
https://www.amazon.com/Bar-Keepers-Friend%C2%AE-Cleanser-Polish/dp/B000V72992/
RUST!?
Do you have a water softener? That may help alleviate the problem.
To clean the porcelain bowl, try Bar keepers friend... this stuff is friggen magic (works wonders on stainless steel too). https://www.amazon.com/Bar-Keepers-Friend%C2%AE-Cleanser-Polish/dp/B000V72992
IMO for cleaning copper I would use Bar Keepers Friend You can get it locally at walmart or your local grocery store usually. Don't have to let anything soak or screw with ammonia which fucking reeks. Put on some rubber gloves (or use a plastic bowl) and pour some powder in there. Pour some water in there to get yourself a nice paste/liquid mixture and then just cover the copper with it. I do this in my hand because its much easier to work over the mod (heh) with. It cleans almost instantly. Threads may need to be cleaned with a toothbrush. Otherwise rinse it off with water and let it dry and you're ready to roll.
Please excuse the Sayid nails
Before and After
There is a product called Barkeeper's Friend. It's very cheap and it is a miracle worker for stainless. Will make it shine like brand new with very minimal effort. This is what you are looking for, but honestly you can get it at most grocery stores or even Home Improvement stores for about $1-2.
As far as cooking with it, just make sure you have enough fat/oil/butter/etc. to keep things from sticking. I like using avocado oil because it has a really high smoke point and a very mild flavor. I can get it pretty hot without smoking and doesn't alter the flavor of whatever I'm cooking. But the great thing about stainless is that no matter how bad you burn things or screw them up, barkeeper's friend will make that sucker shine like new pretty easily.
We had it tested but I cant remember off the top of my head what was in it. Yes the hot water smelled like sulphur and it would leave rust colored streaks where it was left to dry. I ended up having to buy this in order to clean it.
Bar Keepers Friend
Use this Bar Keepers Friend® Cleanser & Polish: 12 OZ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000V72992/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_95A9wbH8GGD0X
To polish
Bar Keepers Friend
Works so good.
Nothing cleans stainless steel like a scrub pad and some Bar Keepers Friend
Couple this with boiling and scraping method (to take off the big chunks) and your stainless steel will have a mirror coat finish. Even takes of decade old burn marks without any furious scrubbing.
Useful add-on item from my wishlist might even be useful for you.
Looks like this: https://www.amazon.com/Bar-Keepers-Friend®-Cleanser-Polish/dp/B000V72992/ref=sr_1_4_s_it?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1520100723&sr=1-4&keywords=BAr+keepers+friend
Add just a little bit of water to make a paste. Works for a bunch of different things- also awesome on stainless steel cookware too if you get food stuck or burnt on.
I use these for quick wipes: https://www.amazon.com/Weiman-Stainless-Steel-Wipes-Count/dp/B00Q8VI480/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1520100859&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=stainless+steel+wipes&psc=1
Maybe there's a similar brand in the U.K.?
I would think barkeepers friend and a sponge would work very well
https://www.amazon.com/Bar-Keepers-Friend%C2%AE-Cleanser-Polish/dp/B000V72992
You can get it at Target or on Amazon or I bet you could find it at Wal Mart. It works incredibly well on copper pans.
Usually I just clean it normally with a sponge like any other dish. If something gets burned on I'll soak it or boil some water in it. Maybe once every year or so I soak it in Barkeepers Friend paste(http://www.amazon.com/Bar-Keepers-Friend%C2%AE-Cleanser-Polish/dp/B000V72992) and then scrub with a sponge and it gets any stuff that was burned on the bottom or tough stains off. That brings the shine back and makes it look brand new. All in all very easy to keep clean. No seasoning to fuss with or teflon coatings to be careful with.
This stuff is cheap, and removes rust very well, without leaving scratches:
http://www.amazon.com/Bar-Keepers-Friend®-Cleanser-Polish/dp/B000V72992
Don't buy it online, though - it's like $2 in the grocery store!
you can try this also:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000V72992
"Get a container such as a cup. Put some BFK and mix it with warm/hot water until it gets pasty, then brush it on to the mesh and lightly scrub. Dont let it sit too long. Finally wash it off.
From what Ive noticed in pictures, BFK seems to dull the shininess of the nylon mesh in XIs.
Also, there has been cases where black/blue spots appearing on the mesh. Im not quite sure what causes it, but it might be from the black liner from inside the shoe bleeding through the mesh. Thats the main reason why I havent personally tried it. "
http://niketalk.com/t/14110/the-official-cure-for-yellowing
keeping your shiny bits shiny has 0 to do with taking care of the car. You can have the shiniest car ever, but if your oil is low or hasn't been changed in 15k miles... congrats?
But. Post a pic. What you consider unusually dirty isn't what i consider unusually dirty, how many miles etc.
VW GTI people love barkeepers friend(amazon.com). I've also heard really good things about some elbow grease and a houshold cleaner like comet or simple green.
/r/AutoDetailing is where you're going to get the best answers to something like this.
As far as it being a sign of a failing hpfp, idk. I'm not sure how they fail, only that they do. I'd imagine if it was failing it would provide less fuel, not more therefore causing lean conditions vs overly rich. And the cars o2 sensors would measure this fuel ratio and adjust to keep everything in the set parameters.
Mine were chrome, and still are. I also had my hpfp replaced, but never noticed it on my exhaust tips. cause ya know, they're amazingly filthy.
but keep the chrome. blacked out is boring, and exhaust tips should be chrome not black regardless.
You could try Bar Keepers Friend. I've used it on my SS before and it works.
I purchased this Cooks Standard set 4 years ago for $225 and I've been loving it. No need to worry about using metal or scrubbing hard. I do occasionally use Bar Keepers Friend to polish up the pans for a brand-new look.
If you don't want this brand/set specifically, for sure get at least tri-ply like already mentioned. I think metal pans (vs non-stick coating) are better for all around cooking. Sure, you need to use more oil/butter in your cooking, but moderate amounts of fat are important in a diet. Its highly processed, added sugars, and excess salt you need to worry about.
For when I needed a non-stick, like for eggs, I picked up this T-fal and the non-stick is fantastic, even after a few years of careful use.
I also have a Lodge cast iron dutch oven set which is great for when I use it, but I find it difficult to use effectively. Perhaps I'm just not using the proper techniques, so I don't get much use of it... but I do love to use it when I get around to it. Learning proper care for cast iron is essential - read up before you use (and possibly ruin!)
I use Zep Heavy Duty Oven and Grill Cleaner from HD or Amazon, works quite well. Bar Keepers Friend also works fine. Preheated cookware cleans up even faster.
Being that the paint is dry, something abrasive is probably your best bet, vs. a solvent. I always use Bar Keepers Friend on my white ceramic sink to make it absolutely shine. It will likely remove your paint. It can be had at most grocery or general stores. http://amzn.com/B000V72992
Simple Green 11001 Clean Building All-Purpose Cleaner Concentrate, 1gal Bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0017D1GG6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ucz0AbWFNN8Y4
I wash my hands a lot and my keyboards still get a little grimy after a while; usually just use a microfiber cloth and some diluted Simple Green to clean them up (far faster than taking all the keys off)
Simple Green
You can buy this stuff at home depot for cheaper than amazon generally as well. Re-usable as well and way cheaper than the gimmicky stuff advertised specifically for bongs. Same shit. Just let it sit overnight then rinse with hot water after. Glass will seriously look brand new.
Are you talking this? How long does it take, and what do you have to do?
The way we do it for all of our Retina displays is to use a Toddy cloth (read a review here), which has a microfiber side for cleaning and a silk side for polishing (this is key for a mirror finish!) and iKlear cleaner fluid, which is what I've heard AppleCare technicians use themselves.
Using the iKlear fluid on the microfiber side first, then polishing with the silk side, gives a display completely free to streak marks or swirls. Now you'll never be able to stand a dirty display!
Been using this product for years and can vouch for is ability to make your Mac screen (and iPad, iPhone, and Apple Watch) look heavenly. It's also used by the tech department where I teach to maintain the hundreds of computers and tablets in use by students and faculty. 1, 8oz bottle last a long, long time.
iKlear 8 oz Spray Bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018CPCT8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_HOHxCb4C2XQ21
For those in the UK:
iKlear 8oz Cleaning Solution for Apple Devices, HDTVs, Plasma & LCD Screens in Spray Bottle
I have been using iKlear Apple polish for years. It's great for all my electronics (iPhones, macs, etc), though I don't use it on the display of my MacBook Pro or iMac. For the computer displays, I use a lint free cloth and water. It works great on the iPhone display, but once it's on the display of my MacBook or iMac, it seems to leave smudge marks, which must be removed with water and a cloth. I'm guessing it has to do with the coating on the computer displays, which is not present on the phone's display. I also use it to clean my glasses!
I usually use Klear Screen or iKlear. Works great on screens and the body of the laptop, even works on pencil/pen/dirt/ect.
SimpleGreen eats aluminum, so it's not a good idea to use on bikes. There is an "aircraft" version that is safe on aluminum: https://www.amazon.com/Simple-Green-13406-Aircraft-Precision/dp/B001VXU7OE
I'd just use dish soap and an actual degreaser, that being said.
Plastic bag over the the alternator. Then I gave the whole engine a quick rinse with a hose. Then I soaked the whole thing in this and let it sit for a few minutes. Then I scrubbed everything with a few different brushes and rinsed it off. Dried everything with compressed air and dressed it up with this
There's no paint job I've not been able to get back down to the metal or plastic with Purple Power. At most I'll have to brush it a couple of minutes with an old toothbrush.
https://www.amazon.com/4320P-Industrial-Strength-Cleaner-Degreaser/dp/B002HU5N4O
You can find this at automotive stores like Auto Zone or O'Reilly's.
Hi - nothing ruined I bet - we've all been there. There is a product known as Purple Power, as well as some other brand names depending on your location, that you can soak your model in to remove the primer. Be very careful - it's a degreaser and it's safe for basic styrene but will take a toll on your skin. ;) Soak the painted model for several hours - most if not all of the paint will be removed and you can start again. You may not need to remove all the existing primer, just enough to get a good smooth new coat on. There may be other products or methods out there, I bet you get a lot of helpful replies - you might try google as well. Good luck!! Post up when you've finished the model! :)
https://www.amazon.com/4320P-Industrial-Strength-Cleaner-Degreaser/dp/B002HU5N4O
​
There may be other products or methods out there - you might try google.
Just making sure as I'm looking to buy it now, is this the stuff you're talking about? https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B002HU5N4O/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467397544&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=purple+power&dpPl=1&dpID=513n07SB5AL&ref=plSrch
Also how would I dilute it, just with water? If so, how much should I dilute it? Sorry about the questions I'm very new to this stuff
I use this electronic goop stuff https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00375JBL4
Cyber-clean cleaning thing
I doubt that.
(...but, yes, I do realize fully I'm much more of the exception than the rule.)
As a more expensive alternative to chewing gum: Cyber Clean Putty?
Relevant user review here.
http://www.amazon.com/Cyber-Clean-25055-Office-Pop-up/dp/B00375JBL4
Maybe??
lipgloss is a oily crappy substance.
https://www.amazon.com/Cyber-Clean-25055-Office-Pop-up/dp/B00375JBL4
good for mixing boards too (lots of knobs)
https://www.amazon.com/Cyber-Clean-25055-Office-Pop-up/dp/B00375JBL4/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1485918676&sr=8-5&keywords=keyboard+putty
The way i do it, i turn my keyboard upside down (keys facing the desk) and i shake it (left to right, up down) which brings a lot of dirt out. I don't think there is any other way without ruining warranty. This might work as well
I remember trying a product called [Cyber Putty] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00375JBL4) a while back and I found that that worked really well. Sometimes there was remaining putty on the keyboard but nothing you couldn't get rid of with another roll of the putty. It was always difficult to get in between the keys but this pretty much did the job. The best part was that it was reusable...up to a certain point.
I haven't tried it but this putty seems pretty cool:
Putty
IMHO antistatic cleaning putty (like this https://www.amazon.com/Cyber-Clean-25055-Office-Pop-up/dp/B00375JBL4 ) is by far the best thing to clean controllers, especially when they're greasy from chipsfingers or have little dust or other particles in the tiny slits you can't regularly clean.
The putty costs like 10 bucks and usually lasts around a year before it dries out (depending on how often you clean I guess).
You can try something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00375JBL4/
I don't guarantee that it doesn't damage your MacBook though.
This stuff. You may need to do a little rubbing with a paper towel, but it does work well.
I bring it to a "do it yourself" car wash. Make sure the vehicle hasn't been running very long and give it 5-10 minutes with the hood open to cool the engine down. I then use a cheap and widely available product called "Super Clean", it comes in a purple bottle. This stuff is the absolute best degreaser on the planet, it is an exceptional product. Anyways, you very liberally spray down your entire engine bay, avoiding the sensitive areas (alternator, plugs/coils, distributor) and let it sit for a few minutes.
Then go put a few quarters into the pressure washing machine, and turn it to the high pressure water rinse. Start very carefully rinsing off the engine bay. DO NOT directly shoot the water into the engine. Stand back quite a ways (5-6ft) and think of it more as a high pressure mist; which will indirectly, yet strongly, rinse the degreaser off. Trust me you do not want to shoot high pressure water into your spark plugs/coils and start to get cylinder misfires and other annoying shit to fix. It is really an easy process, you just need to take your time and be very careful.
After this is done, bring the vehicle back home to the garage and let the engine bay get completely dry. This process can be sped up by using an air compressor and blowing all the water off, or you can just let it sit half a day with the hood open. Once dry, take Armor All and wipe down everything: plastic, hoses, caps, tanks, and covers. Now your engine bay is free of dirt and grease, and has a nice shine to everything making it look brand new. Potential buyers absolutely love to see this and it will significantly help you in selling the vehicle.
Yeah it’s purple. Used to be called Castrol super clean, now it’s just Super Clean.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/SuperClean-101786-Cleaner-Degreaser-Trigger/dp/B0039ZBLEC
this one?
https://www.amazon.com/SuperClean-101786-Cleaner-Degreaser-Trigger/dp/B0039ZBLEC
I need a point of reference as this shit doesn't ship to where I live...
https://www.amazon.com/SuperClean-Multi-Surface-Degreaser-Biodegradable-Concentrate/dp/B0039ZBLEC
Keep that glass feeling like new! But seriously, this stuff is the shiznit. It makes all my glass surfaces feel like I just took off the first screen protector.
Edit: My phone has been totally naked (save for a case to protect it from drunk me on the weekend) since I got it in March. One impossible to notice scratch. Overjoyed with the quality.
It doesn't look or feel as nice because the factory-applied oleophobic (oil repelling) coating wears off over time. I just tried this stuff and so far I love it. It cleaned the screen and restored the slickness that makes new phones so nice.
I just got some Smitty's Glass Wax. So far, it's helped keep fingerprint smudging down.
I am lucky enough to supervise a lab that has the instrumentation to check a sample for lead. The downside is that I did have to work with heavy metals (with proper protective equipment) while pregnant. If you do not have access to an environmental lab, try THIS.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-717834209102DUPE-LeadCheck-Swabs-8-Pack/dp/B008BK15PU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1511894741&sr=8-3&keywords=lead+test+kit
>lead in the sliding tracks of the old double hung wooden sash windows (which we are leaving closed for now).
Old windows like that are the worst for lead dust production.
Wet mopping followed by tack cloth is one of the ideal ways to ensure you're cleaning up the site as best as possible.
The "trick" we're taught in the cert class regarding swab testing:
But a lead test kit like this. Instead of dabbing the end of the tester on the scores in the paint you've made (you do know that in order to test for lead paint you have to score down to the base material, because testing the top layer of paint alone doesn't give accurate results), you squeeze out the testing liquid onto q-tips and then swab the q-tips onto the surface you desire to test.
It is possible to get up to about 8 q-tips sufficiently wet with the test liquid to perform tests, which means you can perform about 8 tests per tube of test fluid.
If in doubt about the results, retest a spot directly with a full tube.
Regarding your vac, just to be clear...did it come with a certificate stating what RRP tests it passed?
The way HD's description reads doesn't clearly indicate that. Want to make sure you're not being mislead by the vendor.
You should be able to find something like this in your vac literature:
>Certified to meet EPA RRP standards: IEST-RP-CC001.5 insuring a minimum filtration efficiency of 99.97% at 0.3 micron
The write up for the Rigid vac just says it "Meets the EPA's definition of a HEPA vacuum under the RRP rule for lead paint renovations".
It doesn't state that it is certified for use. I would follow up on that if I was in your position.
Buy a test kit
This is the test kit. It's the 3M LeadCheck Instant Lead Test Swabs. I believe they're in one of the paint aisles.
You can also order them from Amazon.
Lead tests are cheap and easy to get - https://www.amazon.com/3M-717834209102DUPE-LeadCheck-Swabs-8-Pack/dp/B008BK15PU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1496777788&sr=8-2&keywords=lead+test
You can get lead check test strips from places like Amazon and some hardware stores. I don't know how accurate or precise they are. I think I've also seen kits that are more water quality tests that you can send off for analysis available in hardware stores.
You may want to test for lead in
Paint
and Tap Water
Get some of these
Splurge on a $25 LeadCheck kit. It will tell you in about a minute if there is any lead there.
If you're buying a set from the late 1800s, it's most likely a 95%Silver/5%Copper alloy, but who knows?
Pure silver was really big in the late 19th century, when the Comstock Lode was discovered, and suddenly there was so much pure silver that it was cheap enough to make dishware out of. Some shady merchants sold fake silver also, so it's worthwhile to spend a few bucks on a test.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-717834209102DUPE-LeadCheck-Swabs-8-Pack/dp/B008BK15PU/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=27P4O5BC3N1XW&keywords=lead+test+kit&qid=1554428106&s=gateway&sprefix=lead+&sr=8-3
Would these lead strips work to test my kratom? I must admit, this is concerning.
This is the one I use:
amazon.com/gp/product/B008EN9XUI
That'll work. Or Barkeeper's Friend.
goo gone maybe? https://www.amazon.com/Goo-Gone-Original-Adhesive-Stickers/dp/B009M14C4S/ref=asc_df_B009M14C4S/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=242071853242&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3464479488354272015&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9006783&hvtargid=pla-406530958981&psc=1
Goo Gone. That will remove almost anything.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009M14C4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8s9WCb0WD1XM1
I use this matte cleaner by Chemical Guys on the matte finish on my Patrol. Works well.
Oh my.
Dry washing the car is definitely going to lead to scratches.
Not washing your car is going to lead to paint failure faster than if he protects his paint.
Rust is a valid concern, a lot of antique cars aren't washed with the 2 bucket method for fear of water puddling and creating rust in a spot that the owner won't catch till it's too late. If he feels that strong, consider rinseless washing.
Slinging polish around with a PC means that you put too much polish on the pad. It's tiresome holding on to a machine that is essentially sanding down a minor amount of clearcoat, but the shine is worth it.
Swirls will happen, even with proper use of the two bucket method. But they can be minimized greatly with proper washing techniques.
Is the stripe vinyl? Something like CG Meticulous Matte Detailer & Spray Sealant can be used to clean it and seal it.
I have the matte silver variety. I did a lot of research concerning keeping it clean.
This stuff right here is amazing: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FQHY64S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And for the love of god, don't wax it or use anything that will get into the pores of the paint. Place I bought mine from has two used streetys with glossy washed out matte paint jobs because their previous owners tried to polish them.
Seems to be available on Amazon: https://www.amazon.de/EVAPO-RUST%C2%AE-C700-Rostentferner-946-ml/dp/B00GRSOJSS
From the picture, it seems completely serviceable. Get a bit of evaporust solution and it should take care of all of the rust problem.
http://www.amazon.com/Evapo-Rust-ER004-Super-Safe-Remover/dp/B00GRSOJSS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1450302322&sr=8-2&keywords=evaporust
Soak your Spyderfly in this shit: https://www.amazon.com/Evapo-Rust-Super-Remover-Non-Toxic-Removes/dp/B00GRSOJSS.
I did the same thing and the rust was removed, and the VG-10 finish was left in perfect condition.
Evaporust is incredible stuff.
Actually...yes, assuming you have your own bathroom and/or very understanding roommates :
Use a detergent that has both water softener (to counteract the hard water) and enzymes in it.
The easiest one to find is probably Tide.
But of course, there's a catch.
The catch is that you'll need to soak them for several hours, and because you don't have your own washer, you'll need to soak them at home and wash them by hand. And you'll probably need a second set of sheets if you don't already have one.
If you want to make a small investment that will keep you out of the laundromat and let you wash all your laundry at home (not just sheets) you might consider something like the "wonder washer" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002C8HR9A and a folding drying rack.
If you want to go the cheaper route, some folks use a 5 gallon bucket (from Home Depot or similar) to wash by hand, but I find a big plastic storage tub works better. Use a small amount of detergent (about 1/3 of what you'd use for a normal sized load). If you're using powdered detergent, dissolve it with hot water, then use whatever temperature water you want. Put your sheets in and add enough water to cover the sheets by a few inches. I use a 15 gallon storage tub and usually fill it 2/3 of the way.
Take a clean laundry only plunger (I use this one and love it https://www.amazon.com/EasyGoProducts-Hand-Powered-Clothes-Washing/dp/B00YQCOCAM ) or your hands or clean legs and feet and squish the sheets around in the water for about 5 minutes or so. Then let the sheets sit. The longer they sit, the better the enzymes will work. If you can soak them either overnight or while you're away at work, that would be awesome, but even just two or three hours will make a big difference. When the soak is done, use the plunger (arms/legs/whatever) to squish them around again for about 15 minutes. It's ok to take a break if you get tired, but you want to agitate them for about 15 minutes total. Then empty the water out, and start the first "rinse cycle". Put clean water in the tub and squish the sheets around to rinse. Empty the water and rinse the sheets again.
Then wring them out using your hands and hang them to dry.
TL;DR Wash at home and soak your sheets in a detergent that has water softeners and enzymes.
I don't know of any drill option. But here is another solution. I've never used one and don't own one. But it's worth a shot. https://www.amazon.com/EasyGoProducts-Hand-Powered-Clothes-Washing/dp/B00YQCOCAM/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=hand+washing+machine&qid=1569200809&sr=8-5
You can get plunger + 5 gal bucket washing machine substitutes to clean those reusable diapers. You could reasonably hang them in the tub or out the window.
Added bonus of having this in your backup is that you've prepped for washing your own unmentionables, and you won't have to deal with any mystery rashes that baby might develop in reaction to all that extra shit going on with disposable diapers that you haven't experimented with previously.
This thing has 5 stars on Amazon. I use it whenever I want to wash something gently or I only have one white or dark thing I want to wash and don't want to pay a whole $3.50 on an extra load of laundry at the laundromat.
Comfortors are another thing notorious for disintegrating in the laundry. Check reviews online before you wash one for the first time.
I got some car guys super cleaner
https://www.amazon.com/CarGuys-Super-Cleaner-Effective-Upholstery/dp/B071XB18BF
Works well. Recently found some blue jean stain transferred on the driver seat and it wiped off easily with some dog wipes I had in the car (probably the same as baby wipes, but 10x more expensive, haha).
Enjoy the X! I almost went there, and I think eventually I’ll have one too :)
Here’s the product I used, this thing has replaced almost all my other cleaning products
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071XB18BF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jbMhDbYA7VC7N
I use this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071XB18BF/ref=twister_B074NBKCH1?_encoding=UTF8&th=1
On all surfaces and a nonammonia glass cleaner on the interior class.
So this may not be the perfect solution, but this worked-
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Results- not perfect, but much much much better
End result- PHOTO
I've been loving this:
CarGuys Super Cleaner - Effective All Purpose Cleaner - Best for Leather Vinyl Carpet Upholstery Plastic Rubber and Much More! - 18 oz Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071XB18BF/
I don't have dogs but I've been super pleased with this and have seen several people speak highly of it.
This works fine for me
tho either way if you do decide on getting one i recommenf either getting these or this b/c the filters they come with are not that good. personally i got the plate one and that works just fine. tho the capsules are nice just for convenience.
Yes, I exclusively use the sandwich pusher. Provides enhanced vape and what feels like an even heat distribution -bud gets used up well and increases the amount of draws. I average ~25 per with it.
HEre's the link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C7RLWF4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Also suggest the carrying case. Yoda travels well with minimal oder. Link for that, too: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KQOAJKK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
the Case is a bit pricey but it has a top compartment that can hold ~5 grams bud and it's a solid construction, meaning it will last me quite a while so it's worth the extra bucks.
For years, I have utilized Klear Screen Spray and a Micro Chamois Cloth. I use this combination for both screens (TV, phone, laptop, tablet) and laptop/tablet keyboards.
I am in the Facilities Maintenance department and I fully support and back this post and all recommendations. It's true and accurate on every level. Mainly on keeping the equipment clean and our kitchen staff often forgets UNDER and BACK of the equipment which includes the floor drains, so keep them clean and clear. The kitchens I work with are about 18 months old and all the equipment new for several kitchens but into operation or about 10+ years into use for several other kitchens, so this has been a challenge for the organization I work for and the team that I am on.
I done near freaked out when seeing a new dishy squeegee a bunch of scraps at the Hobart into the floor drain. You want fruit flies? Because that's how you get fruit flies. And clogs. Use a enzyme treatment on a regular basis if you have floor drains to keep them clean and clear of clogs.
This also avoids any rank odor to emit from the drains and/or the respective grease trap(s).
http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=bioclean+drain+cleaner&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=7971424659&hvpos=1t1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15174809577464155145&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_6ejvbxtwdb_b
Also, a product called "Purple Power" which can be bought at Amazon or Walmart is what our staff and even our hood/panels/exhaust/fan steam cleaning vendor uses.
I introduced it to the kitchen staff only after supervising a hood cleaning and grime/grease covered hoods went with one swipe to being sparkly shiny stainless steel. Notable difference. It's concentrated so you can water it down and dilute for daily use, but more concentrated when doing a full major cleaning. If it's thick gunk, let it rest for 5 to 10 minutes to let it penetrate at full concentration. Then simply wipe off with a cloth towel.
Periodic power washing also helps if you have a dishy trained to do so if you can't hire a full time kitchen maintenance person.
http://www.amazon.com/4320P-Industrial-Strength-Cleaner-Degreaser/dp/B002HU5N4O
I can't tell you how many times the Sous will call me about "Shit's Broke" when most of the time it's because shit isn't kept clean. If you don't have any manuals for your larger equipment, especially Hobarts and other dishwashing machines, get one and follow the manual as to daily operations and cleaning. It takes time, but in the long term the extra time and payroll will keep shit operating when you need it to, especially during weekend rushes, and save a ton in the long run when your equipment is down and the out the ass money it costs to replace parts and the labor when calling in a vendor. Especially when it's an emergency call and the tech is charging time and a half for the OT.
Edit: If you can hire a dedicated person, make sure they know how to repair Walk in coolers and other refrigeration needs. Shooting in some fre-on doesn't always repair a fucked up compressor. Considering how vital it is to keep product at the right temperatures, this is a required skill.
Edit 2: words
Edit 3: Wanted to note that the under and behind can be done once a month or every two weeks contingent on volume and schedule. Doesn't have to be every night. Just don' let that grimey grease shit build up. If you do let it build up, it costs more in time and money (worse than that, down time during peak rush) than keeping shit clean via preventative maintenance.
This stuff looks like it will do the trick. I haven't used it, but it's worth a shot.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00375JBL4/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1527548557&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=electronics+cleaning+putty&dpPl=1&dpID=41ihUlKj7hL&ref=plSrch
My wife is short and I installed the "mini-apes" on her bobber to help with the stock seating position (which is uncomfortable as all hell, IMHO) - she has no issues reaching the mini-apes and it puts her upright.
As far as your Matte paint, I've got a '19 Chief DH as well as her Bobber. I've had great luck using this to "wash" them and then spraying [this product] (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FQHY64S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) on to "seal" the finish.
I've been messing around with a bunch of products / sealers / washes...etc... this combo seems to give the best results.
Do not get the half pack lid! What is way better is a pusher. You can adjust it to any amount of weed. Also it being flat is way better than the curvature of the stock lids. I think the curvature packs the weed so it doesn't allow any airflow.
I've been accused of being a shill on here hired by pax or an amazon seller to push these products. In response to that I say, keep using your shitty half pack lids you imbeciles while I get like 50% more efficiency with my mods of the vented lid and pusher combo! Puff it bitches! But yeah the bottom metal block that replaces the screen makes for a good thermal mass that vapes better.
https://www.amazon.com/Jianuo-Adjustable-Sandwich-Pusher-Bottom/dp/B07C7RLWF4
Scrub with bar keeper’s friend, mild dish soap, and a toothbrush.
Simple green?