(Part 2) Best all-purpose household cleaners according to redditors

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We found 897 Reddit comments discussing the best all-purpose household cleaners. We ranked the 325 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.

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Top Reddit comments about All-Purpose Household Cleaners:

u/hiro_san · 128 pointsr/sex

Lestoil is your friend. Will take those stains right out. Will also remove ink, chapstick, and candle wax.

u/Heretic04 · 52 pointsr/mildlyinfuriating

I have to deal with Whiteboards alot and I find [Expo Spray] (https://www.amazon.com/81803-Whiteboard-Liquid-Cleaner-8-ounce/dp/B00006IBO5) will get all the markings off if you let the spray sit long enough, which means taking the board off the wall and laying it flat.

u/ProfessorPaulKrugman · 19 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Oil Eater has never failed me.

u/zapatodefuego · 19 pointsr/chefknives

I copied my comment from another thread where I listed what he used that I could identify below. If you have any questions about technique I would be happy to try and answer them!

---

He's using a couple of things.

First, the white liquid is just some regular kitchen cleaner with a mild abrasive like soft scrub.

Next, the black whetstone looks like a welsh slate which is a type of natural whetstone. Could easily be something else, especially since welsh slates are usually rather high grit, but that was the first that came to mind. It could also be an oilstone, but they don't usually get muddy like the one he used did. Those are the only black whetstones I know of.

After the black stone he uses a rust eraser.

Next, the green block is honing compound. Green compound is usually around 1 micron.

Next, the progression of stones are all Shapton Pros.

Finally, he strops on this overprice Bob Kramer strop block.

---

What he's actually doing:

  1. Scrubbing with cleaner to remove some of the rust

  2. "Muddy" whetstone to remove more of the rust. Muddy stones work out unevenness in the blade.

  3. Rust eraser to remove even more rust and give the start of a consistent finish

  4. Green honing compound which he's using as a metal polish (which it effectively is)

  5. Regular whetstone sharpening with a progression of 2k, 5k, 12k (Shaptons are color coded)

  6. Leather strop
u/SirNarwhal · 11 pointsr/vinyl

You can get a Spin Clean which uses proper fluid (not soap) to clean your records and doesn't submerge the middle of your record and ruin it. It also includes microfiber towels and brushes to dry and also to get out any embedded dirt from grooves.

Or if you're cheap like me, you can just use microfiber cloths and anti-static spray like this and just spritz your microfiber towel/cloth with it like 2-3 times and give your record a quick wipe. Gets rid of any static that built up in the pressing process and taking your record out the first time, which 1) prevents it from picking stuff up and 2) gets any excess vinyl out of the grooves so you won't have any issues.

If you have a TON of money to blow, get a VPI machine, which is basically a bit like a mix of the Spin Clean or just some anti-static spray in that you wet the record with special fluid, spin it around on a special turntable while it's locked in, and then vacuum dry it. If you're lucky, places nearby may even have a machine. I have a shop where if I buy like $20 worth of stuff they clean a record for me for free or if I want, it's $1 a record to get cleaned and the results are amazing.

Hope that helps!

u/rewardiflost · 8 pointsr/NoStupidQuestions

Cleaners like the brands Soft-Scrub (a mild abrasive), or Comet (a strong abrasive)

u/MurdochHaynes · 7 pointsr/AutoDetailing
  1. make sure engine is cool. warm is okay.

  2. spray some all purpose cleaner (APC) like Simple Green. you can get this stuff from Home Depot.

  3. agitate with brush (toothbrush for small crevices)

  4. let the APC sit for 1-2 minutes

  5. wipe off with damp towel or rinse off with water.

  6. you can also apply dressing to keep it shining but i'm not sure what kind to get. something water-based i assume.
u/Vesha · 6 pointsr/Landlord

For some reason, everyone thinks oil spots are impossible to remove or at the very least really difficult. A quick google search will show you a quick and cheap way to remove almost any oil spot without hassle. I know because I'm a Landlord in an HOA that has had to do it several times.

FYI - I also thought they were impossible to remove (without a pressure washer or something) for a long time because that is what everyone kept telling me, but no totally wrong.

In case you're wondering I used Simple Green 19128 Crystal Industrial Cleaner/Degreaser to pull huge oil stains out of some driveways with no problem. I know you're on asphalt, but I'm, sure there something that will do that too.

u/SatinUnicorn · 5 pointsr/muacjdiscussion

When my tools get really gunked up (happens more in the winter when I'm adding oil to my foundation) I use LA's Totally Awesome Orange all purpose cleaner. I can only find it at dollar stores, but here's a listing on Amazon.

It has orange oil, which if you have ever known any mechanics, is the bomb at cleaning even the most stubborn crap. But it's still somehow gentle.

u/prdycool · 5 pointsr/simpleliving

Lestoil is pretty great for laundering greasy things!

u/alejandroandraca · 4 pointsr/soylent

Have you tried washing it with Ajax? That stuff gets rid of almost any smell in my experience.

u/Inaspectuss · 4 pointsr/AMA

You can power wash it or try this. Usually, if it's fresh, you can just toss kitty litter on top of it for a few days and then rinse it off.

u/wdmartin · 4 pointsr/DMAcademy

Here is a picture of my oldest Chessex mat.

As you can see, it's still in pretty good condition considering its age: I've had it for about a decade now.

I use wet erase markers on it -- shown in the first picture, alongside a mini I finished painting recently. I have never used dry erase on it.

I try to clean it after each session using warm water and paper towels. However, on occasion when it's had a particularly complicated thing drawn on it and a long break between sessions, I have left it uncleaned for as long as a couple of months.

I have occasionally had difficulty removing marker that was on there for a long time. In those cases, I use Simple Green on it, which I also use for stripping the paint off minis when I screw up a paint job badly enough that I want to start over. The stuff is pretty astringent, but so far as I can see it hasn't damaged the mat at all. I just spritz some on the trouble lines, let it sit for a minute or so, and then scrub it off with more water and paper towels.

Here's a picture of the other side with a hex grid instead of a square grid. You can clearly see a marker line. It's faint, but visible. That's the result of an unfortunate accident when a green fine-tip Sharpie found its way into the cup of wet erase markers. Sharpies, of course, are permanent markers.

Fortunately we noticed the mistake even as it happened, and I immediately dropped everything, grabbed the Simple Green and tried to remove it before it finished drying. I got most of it off, but not all. That mark is there forever. It's visible, but not dark enough to really cause an issue. So it is now an ongoing reminder to not put Sharpies in with the wet erase markers.

u/cieje · 3 pointsr/trees

I bought https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0728K142V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_x8NOBbN9XRR4D. and Simple Green Crystal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ULLGRU?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf.

just fill the cleaner with the simple green up to the max line and put in a dirty piece and run it on a 7.5 minute cycle.

alternatively, you could put a piece in like a ziplock bag with isopropyl alcohol, and submerge the bag into regular water in the cleaner as well. the ultrasonic cleaning will permeate the bag. you can't just fill the tub with alcohol because it may catch on fire.

u/stithros1742 · 3 pointsr/CannabisExtracts

For things that don't readily come off with alcohol and/or water.

These:

Alconox Powder Labware Detergent, 4 lbs Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FGDEP1Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_buPwCbCFF6J2R


100% Orange Oil d-Limonene HIGH PURITY Food Grade, Solvent, Medicinal, Cleaner, Degreaser, Limonene (32 fl oz) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009SSGW48/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_WuPwCb3DKT2R4

And/or an ultrasonic bath are what we use in our lab.

To clarify we do not specifically mix alconox and limonene. Not saying it will be toxic or have a violent reaction if the 2 mix, but typically we try not to mix solvents.

For stubborn stuff the ultrasonic bath works great.

I would avoid using salt as it can scratch the glass and if you are using tap water it's a good idea to rinse with ethanol or isopropyl afterwards to prevent hard water stains and to help it dry thoroughly.


If you can't decide which to try first go with the limonene. If it's still really stuck you'll probably be best to invest in a ultrasonic bath.

u/RelivingToday · 3 pointsr/CampingGear

I know a crusty ole goat who has spent more time in tents than most people spend in a house. He swears by this. https://www.amazon.com/303-Products-30616-Fabric-Repellant/dp/B0000AY69N

u/garrettmikesmith · 3 pointsr/howto

I think you need to jump up a class of cleaners. Goo Gone Pro Power works pretty good. It's noticibly better than the regular stuff. You could also use this, but as others said, spot check.

u/unofficialchemist · 3 pointsr/Frugal

This is too messy and kind of a slow process. If you want something safe, fast acting and durable protection for a few weeks, you need to spray D-limonene. It is just citrus oil and it is the only thing I have found to instantly stop an ant invasion.

[ Here is an Amazon Link ] ( http://www.amazon.com/Blubonic-Industries%C2%AE-d-Limonene-Limonene-Terpenes/dp/B009SSGW48/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1427708497&sr=8-4&keywords=d-limonene )

u/vschwoebs · 3 pointsr/BehindTheClosetDoor

Hi all! My Mercari blew up last night! Made 4 sales and just got an offer on a pair of shoes I plan to accept. If you are comfortable listing old electronics, I highly suggest doing so on Mercari. I listed 2 old iPhones (unlocked and factory reset, not in the best condition) and they both sold very quickly, and for great prices.

Agree with u/flvampy about Converse! It's one of my favorite brands and always seem to resell fast. I love finding them but some of my local Goodwills now mark them up to $15+ if they're in good condition. The scuffed up ones are usually cheaper, and I found this awesome cleaning product that I now use on pretty much all shoes. So if you don't mind using a lil elbow grease, Converse clean up pretty well.

Planning to relist an ASOS dress and Vans sneakers during the noon party, and will be sending out a lot of OTLs this afternoon. #PAYDAY

Happy weekend!!

u/ahenkel · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I've used this https://www.amazon.com/Endust-Electronics-Anti-Static-Cleaning-097000/dp/B00005T3Z7 before.

I just spritz a little on a lint free cloth and wipe down the surfaces.

I shouldn't have to tell you not to spray it on components should i?

u/MjrGrangerDanger · 2 pointsr/RBNLifeSkills

Honestly your landlord should take care of all of it. I'd voice your concerns about the wood pieces being mold contaminated. They are potentially part of the cabinet though. The upper one is a countertop support if I understand correctly. It's easy enough for your landlord to have sealed if needed, though it may be a good idea to have the countertop treated and sealed as long as everything is dry.

I went back and skimmed your other posts regarding this as well. If you are still having mold issues in the apartment I'd let your landlord know. You can try washing everything with a bleach solution first. I noticed your reference to cleaning with bleach, vinegar and other chemicals. Just remember not to mix bleach with pretty much anything but water, dish detergent included. Laundry detergent that says in the instructions you can mix with Bleach is the only thing I would reccomend.

Ammonia, acids (vinegar is acetic acid, usually 4-6% solution out of the bottle, but you can get up to 40% easily and inexpensively), oxidizing agents like baking soda (sodium bicarbonate), hydrogen peroxide, Oxyclean (sodium percarbonate), or denture cleaning tablets which are great for household cleaning.

Using bleach in laundry - Oxyclean will neutralize bleach, so if you bleach laundry you can run the load through with oxyclean after to neutralize the bleach and this will keep the fabric from turning yellow. The small amount of bleach left reacting with oxyclean in your washer does not release enough chlorine gas to make you sick. However washing surfaces with strong enough solutions of something that reacts with Bleach before or after a strong bleach solution can result in a poison gas being released.

If you can still smell it on the surface don't use another chemical.

Please understand I don't think you are stupid, I know bleach is dangerous. My husband is a physicist, I'm a laboratory trained scientist as well. We have two bleach products only in the house. Clorox bleach crystals for laundry because I don't need to worry about spills, and Clorox cleanup I buy in concentrate and dilute to refill the retail bottles. I only use bleach products if I have to, otherwise I use steam, vinegar, D-Limonene a citrus based degreaser, and Dr Bronners Castille Soap. 4 years and just about out of Dr Bronners, LOL.

u/dstutz · 2 pointsr/woodworking

There's also Rust-Free...

u/PatriotRDX · 2 pointsr/Warhammer

OP, if you want to start again. Get some Simple Green (original one only, not any special varieties) to strip them. It might be harder to find where you live in stores, but Amazon and Staples usually carries it.

After that, check out this video on painting Ultramarines. They give a paint list at the beginning, any colors you don't have from the AoS kit you'll need to either get individually or in the Ultramarines paint kit.

Also prime them black (spray primer). You can try to check out what other people use to prime that won't clog detail, or you can get the Citadel stuff.

EDIT: Soak 'em in a plastic container filled with the Simple Green for 24 hours. Then just use a toothbrush to get it all off. Should come off fairly easily (you might have to work a bit in the grooves).

EDIT 2: If you really enjoy painting, you might want to check out /r/minipainting's buyers guide. And also check out a lot of tutorials on YouTube. YouTube is your friend. Warhammer TV I linked above has lots of painting videos, but there are tons of other channels like miniwargaming, their spin-off channels, Tabletop Minions, etc.

u/TemptedTemplar · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Take the shells off and scrub them with some of this stuff..

Shit works for everything.

u/Ellexoxoxo33 · 2 pointsr/DIY
u/vmlinux · 2 pointsr/personalfinance

http://www.amazon.com/Savogran-10622-Trisodium-Phosphate-4-5lbs/dp/B000AXE7CY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457463596&sr=8-1&keywords=tsp

Cheaper at your box store probably unless you are in an ocean facing state that has outlawed it for algae reasons.

Also you should always clean walls with TSP before painting. Generally speaking I've had better luck with TSP cleaned walls and paint than uncleaned walls with primer and then paint, and it's a whole lot easier.

u/The_Kadeshi · 2 pointsr/bicycling

> Bio Chainbrite

btw this stuff is insanely expensive. Even on amazon it's $13 for 16 oz., or over $100/gallon. Simple Green Degreaser is just as effective and $17 for a gallon. And it doesn't contain petroleum distillates.

u/cleanforever · 2 pointsr/homemaking

Clean with soap and water, use soft scrub and a toothbrush to remove it. If it doesn't come out it might have gone too deep in which case it would have to be replaced, or you can cover it with something.

Soft Scrub: https://smile.amazon.com/Soft-Scrub-Purpose-Kitchen-Cleanser/dp/B000RPXSDY?th=1 should be able to find it easily at your local grocery store though

u/kswiss996 · 2 pointsr/bikesgonewild
u/Red_Swingline_ · 2 pointsr/EDC

Use 1Step cleaner instead of scrubbing.

u/answerguru · 2 pointsr/shutupandtakemymoney

>My experience is that if you leave anything on the whiteboard over a week, when you erase it there'll still be an obvious ghost left there if you only dry erase it. And if you use it often enough there'll be annoying light lines that build up over time.

That's what dry erase board cleaner is for. Never a trace left after using it...

>And there's still the smudge problem with the markers and the markers tend to be quite thick.

They make fine tip markers.

u/Idiot_Savant_Tinker · 2 pointsr/news

Go buy some trisodium phosphate. Add a little bit of that (Like 1/4 teaspoon, doesn't take much) to your dishwasher detergent. Works wonders.

u/robbybelmont · 2 pointsr/cassetteculture

Rubber Renew

please note this is nasty stuff so make sure to use in a well-ventilated area

u/stein411 · 2 pointsr/keto

I use a product called Lestoil, I've only had one shirt that it couldn't get clean, and that was mostly because I wasn't willing to put that much work into that old of a shirt. It's not cheap, but like I said I've never had it fail me.

Lestoil

u/JohnSpaceFish · 2 pointsr/vinyl

LA's Totally Awesome cleaner does a good job of removing sticker residue. https://www.amazon.com/LAS-PURPOSE-CONCENTRATED-TOTALLY-AWESOME/dp/B0017KT3IM $7 at Amazon, $1 dollar at every dollar store in America. Goo-Be-Gone works well too, but can etch some plastics pretty quickly, so be careful and rinse well if you choose to go that route.

u/Thea70 · 2 pointsr/Guitar

Wax won't clean anything. I dint knew of Dunlop sells it or not,a Google search will find out. It's a cleaner that reacts with very very few compounds. It is a product you'll have to get at the grocery store or some hardware stores , have it. (Link)[http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000CFLYJ]. It's like 12 bucks at the store but lasts forever. I'm still on my first bottle with 16 guitars.

u/xj2379 · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

I use Simple Green degreaser for most cleaning. It's concentrated so a gallon jug will last years. I use Gunk Tar & Bug Remover for stuck on spots. I finish with some Mothers Spray Wax to keep dirt from sticking after the bike is clean.

I keep away from solvents as much as I can because, like you said, it has potential to strip the paint/coating.

u/Voit237 · 2 pointsr/cycling

Not the all-purpose, the degreaser.

u/spankybranch · 1 pointr/FiestaST

I use all 303 products on my interior bits :

UV Protector:
https://www.amazon.com/303-30218-Automotive-Conditioner-Protectant/dp/B0185PU34O/

Leather Cleaner:
https://www.amazon.com/303-30382-Automotive-Protectant-finished/dp/B0185PU38A/

Seat Cloth:
https://www.amazon.com/303-30616-Fabric-Trigger-Sprayer/dp/B0000AY69N/

Even with this my driver side left leg-bolster is showing quite a bit of wear in 7k miles/10 months. All the leather in the car has a nice matte-finish but that bolster is very shiny and the texture has almost worn completely away from getting in/out of the car, pretty disappointed.

u/aplombed · 1 pointr/typewriters

Thank you. I am in California unfortunately for that, but I think I'll try to order this and see if it arrives. I'm not sure if the Skyriter has feed rollers, but I'll have to take off the platen to tell because I can't see them.

u/hamietao · 1 pointr/rosin

Its mold a type of mold. Get it our before it sticks your glass. If it stuck on your glass, this stuff will get ut out after 24-48 hours

One Step - 8 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0064O7VYY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_i5nlDbAC4HVCW

u/7U5K3N_at_work · 1 pointr/CCW

ah sorry i was making a poor joke. Glad you were correct about it being environmentally friendly. If you feel the need to drink something else that is environmentally friendly... try Simple Green. I hear you can drink it with out killing yourself.

u/PantsIsDown · 1 pointr/Dungeons_and_Dragons

Oh gosh I forgot if you get the mat and the markers you need Expo cleaner.

u/TheStebes · 1 pointr/metalworking

I've had amazing success with Boeshield rust remover.

The Boeshield T-9 lubricant is also great to prevent rust in the first place.

u/NSFWies · 1 pointr/CannabisExtracts

i have made 16 batches of THC ecig stuff using alcohol, PG and PEG-400. i was going to wait longer to see how long it holds, but i'll share my initial results (because every batch ive made has had some problems down the line. i wanted to wait and see if this one stayed homogenized. the commercial opens i bought months ago are easily 6 months old, and still perfect):

when i heated it to let the shatter and PG mix faster, they always came apart weeks later. my best batch took 5 weeks to de-homogenize. my latest batch, room temperature. just setting 1g of shatter into 1g of PG and letting it sit. it's been 4 days now and it's looking very good. still some solid white chunks, plant waxes im sure. i used a very low quality shatter, i doubt it had been winterized.

i really wish i could find a place i could get PEG-400 that didnt taste bad. i got some from texlabsupply and it has a heavy plastic taste to it, can't use.

now, if you really want to step up your game, you'll try to replicate tetra labs gold oil. they add d-lemonine to it after they mix it up, 5% by volume. i think most THC ecigs are 1 part shatter to 1 part solvent (PG or PEG). so i was going to mix up a "pre-mix" for THC ecig use which was 10% d-lemonine. that way i can just squirt out 1ml into a bho container, and let it sit.

http://www.amazon.com/Blubonic-Industries-d-Limonene-Solvent-Dlimonene/dp/B009SSGW48/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1410549287&sr=8-5&keywords=d+limonene

i might go with a smaller quantity. if i used all of it up, it would denote i bought and consumed over 1 kilo of shatter. that would be a long fucking time.

edit: for the commercially bought thc ecig pens, indica ones always had a berry flavor to them. does anyone know what that might be? because i think d-limonene is some of the good flavors in some strains. if i could buy some and mix it in to add to the flavor? i thought i might be able to do this with just essential oils, but that does not sound like the case.

u/LocalAmazonBot · 1 pointr/vinyl

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Amazon Smile Link: this


|Country|Link|Charity Links|
|:-----------|:------------|:------------|
|USA|smile.amazon.com|EFF|
|UK|www.amazon.co.uk|Macmillan|
|Spain|www.amazon.es||
|France|www.amazon.fr||
|Germany|www.amazon.de||
|Canada|www.amazon.ca||
|Italy|www.amazon.it||




To help add charity links, please have a look at this thread.

This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting). The thread for feature requests can be found here.

u/JimmyDThing · 1 pointr/pics

Goo Gone is your friend.

u/CMO_Ratchet · 1 pointr/AskReddit

Awesome All purpose cleaner Used to be called just tire cleaner. You can pick it up from most dollar stores and it'll clean rust off rust. We used it to clean an old RV and if you leave it on too long it'll strip the paint right off. This stuff cleans EVERYTHING.

u/joeyfettuccine · 1 pointr/audiorepair

Consumer grade R2R machines like that usually haven't even been turned on for at least a couple decades, so pretty much all of them need work these days. Assuming the electronics are OK, you should be able to get it functional enough to use as a tape echo in a couple hours.

Get a bottle of rubbing or denatured alcohol. Remove the front panel (might have to remove a few transport pieces first). Check the grease on the moving parts (bearings, levers etc.). It's probably sticky and gross after all these years and should be cleaned off. Don't replace it with WD-40, use some kind of machine oil or lithium grease. Check the rubber parts - idler wheels, belts, pinch rollers. If they are real hard and cracked (or turned to goo), you're shit outta luck unless you got spares or want to spend a bunch of money. If they are just dirty (they probably are), clean them up with isopropyl alcohol or preferably rubber renue. A lot of folks say that alcohol will damage the rubber parts but in my experience that's bullshit.

Clean any switch contacts and pots with contact cleaner. At the very least wiggle all the controls a few times to make sure everything works.

Have fun!

u/rivade · 1 pointr/DnD

A bit off topic, but seeing someone who uses erases/rewrites stuff on their character sheet makes me cringe now after I swapped to the below setup.

Brother, buy yourself some cardstock and some sheet protectors and either wet-erase markers with some spray OR dry-erase markers.

Write everything really nice and neat, only write on the sheet when it's a more permanent use, and everything that can change during a session is written on the sheet protector with the marker. I prefer the wet-erase because I can pack up the character sheet between sessions and nothing gets erased, but that's really personal preference.

u/WeddingShit · 1 pointr/femalefashionadvice

Lestoil!


Gets out grease stains better than anything I've ever tried. I always get nervous because the product itself feels oily, so I think I'm just making things worse, but once you throw it in the washer or sink, the spots come out like magic. Great for food stains like salad dressing or bacon splatters!

Obligatory shout out to my mom for introducing me to this wonder product.

u/PillPod · 1 pointr/woodworking

If it's something like a cast iron table, you could use this: Boeshield Rust Free.

If it's something like a hand plane or anything small, I would submerge it in white vinegar for a day or two. It does a great job of getting rid of rust. Just brush off the residue with a wire brush. But make sure to dry it after or else the rust will come back.

u/capnarrr · 1 pointr/cade

Try to go easy on the cleaning chemicals when possible. Simple green should work fine on most of the exterior. Magic erasers can be good for stubborn or stained control panels, side art or general trouble spots, but be warned they do tend to take some of the paint off especially on old art. Novus 2 is a fantastic polisher for just about anything plastic, can work on rusted metal too if you want to tumble some parts. Goo gone (NOT goof off!) is great for removing old adhesives if you need to replace a CP or side art and take off some old glue underneath. Any glass cleaner is fine for the monitor (CRT!) screens, use simple green or a light cleaner on the plexiglass bezels or around art on the underside of a glass marquee. If you have some stained or smelly particle board inside your cabinet, white vinegar and a scrubbing brush can take out some of the smell and discoloration.

Those are the main tools I use, I'm sure each collector has their own set of favorites.

u/redwoodser · 1 pointr/DIY

This product is very effective, with a wet towel of it, and may be combined with bleach, if needed. Rubber gloves and a white towel, if the wall is white. Open the windows.

https://www.amazon.com/Savogran-10622-Trisodium-Phosphate-4-5lbs/dp/B000AXE7CY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474478520&sr=8-1&keywords=TSP+All+Purpose+Heavy+Duty+Cleaner

u/SoFlaKicks · 1 pointr/AJ1s
u/UFC_blackbelt · 1 pointr/Autobody

https://www.amazon.com/D-Limonene-Extract-Extracted-Degreaser-Deodorizer/dp/B073RQ3CBC?th=1


I'm not being fruity and organic here....it has more solvent power than mineral spirits.


I bought a gallon to have around for nasty crap.

u/naval_person · 1 pointr/wicked_edge

I find that hard water + lather creates layers and layers of scum on the DE razor. Takes about a week to be ugly, 2 weeks to be disgusting. The solution, for me, is an ultrasonic cleaner. Bought the cheapest 2 Liter capacity model Amazon sold, have been extremely pleased with the results. Removes scum, hard water deposits, and even blobs-of-glue. You know, DE blades are wrapped in paper and (inexplicably!) glued to the inner wrapper. Some of the glue sticks to the blade, then some of the blade-glue sticks to the razor. Ultrasonic removes it. I use a few spritzs of Simple Green plus a spurt of dishwashing liquid, in the (hot) water.

u/Pelvis_Snapper · 1 pointr/houston

I have used tsp
And a ozone generator in my rentals if they have smoked.
I usually only need to run the ozone machine.

u/adamweishaupt76 · 1 pointr/audioengineering

Mineral oil might work, it depends on the rubber. There's a good chance that you could damage or ruin them too, just be aware of that going in.

Here are some other products that might work:https://smile.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-408A-125ML-Rubber-Liquid/dp/B008O9X3KS/

https://smile.amazon.com/303-Rubber-Protectant-Conditioner-Weather/dp/B00T44D1R2/


Edit: I was assuming they were older speakers and the reason the rubber was stiff was from drying out/hardening over time. If these are new speakers (i.e. the rubber is less than a decade or two old) you really shouldn't be trying to soften them up.

u/Plz_PM_Steam_Keys · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Need this for my computer cleaning needs

Thank you for your service.

u/TabascoButthole · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Hence why I still don't use a foam cannon or foam gun. If I have a bunch of caked on crud, I have a pump bug spray thing I use to spray Simple Green/soap mixture onto the area (usually wheel wells, tires, wheels).

u/BrandonRushing · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

I strictly use Sodium Percarbonate for cleaning brew equipment. I was using OxyClean but felt it was getting too expensive. You can buy 10LBS of Percarbonate on Amazon for $25 shipped free with Prime. I use 1-3 TBSP per 6.5G carboy, depending on how stuck the dried krausen is. Some people buy bulk tri-sodium phosphate (TSP) and mix it with percarbonate to make a "DIY" PBW. I haven't seen the need for this addition yet, though.

Sodium Percarbonate

Trisodium Phosphate

u/mikehawklol · 1 pointr/loseit

Just an update for anyone else scouring the web for this answer...

My Dr recommended washing my clothes with Simple Green. I'm also going to try this cool hippy Peppermint soap my wife just bought from Costco - seems magical.

Peppermint Soap

Simple Green

u/LogeySmalls · 1 pointr/ZombieSurvivalTactics

You don’t have to but I do. Sanitizing the containers minimizes the risk of germs or bad yeasts (which will change the flavor of the wine, usually for the worst). I use this sanitizer

u/RobinOfReddit · 1 pointr/motorcycles

Thanks! This is Simple Green

u/CT5Holy · 1 pointr/mead

TLDR: The "Full kit" looks like it has the basics. As others have said, you might want a food-grade plastic bucket for primary fermentation, and you'll need bottles/containers to store the end product in.

If it were a "complete" kit I'd probably put one together which included One step sanitizer to sanitize equipment,a plastic fermentation bucket, and an auto-syphon to make racking (i.e., transferring the liquid from container to container) easier.

If it's something you're interested in pursuing further, there's plenty more you could consider picking up. A bottle filler for the auto syphon, a filtration kit to help clarify wine/mead, fining products, you might want to look into picking up more things like yeast energizer and yeast nutrient (which it sounds like this kit comes with some) and sulfate/sorbate (to stabilize the mead before back-sweetening) etc.

There are lots of recipes and lots of help available, so read up and feel free to ask questions and have a lot of fun experimenting and trying new things :)

u/politirob · 1 pointr/howto

Ajax Powder Cleanser with Bleach, 14 oz (396 g) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005UVD9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1LxWDbMHJ0SG1

Use this, wear gloves, follow directions, basically sprinkle it on, toss on some water, give the tub a quick one time scrub (this one time scrub isn’t meant to clean anything, it’s just to lather up the powder and distribute it throughout the tub.)

let this lather sit in the tub for half an hour or so, then come back and use one of these on the tub with your power drill:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D9M667G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8OxWDbYEPS81H
(note this item isn’t available at Lowe’s or Home Depot so order it now and get the shipping process started)

If you don’t have a power drill, you can also use those green scrub scour pads, but man you arm and especially your wrist will be exhausted and you risk hurting or injuring it (ESPECIALLY YOUR WRIST) again wear gloves because this is a dirty job lol.

Anyway rinse as you go, I use a little container of water to help rinse the rest of the tub and other hard to reach places.

You might have to repeat this process a couple more times to get it perfectly clean. There’s also a chance that once you get it all clean that the tub itself has harder discoloration or stains, at that point you might consider just replacing the tub. They can be relatively cheap, even under $300 or so.

source: I just really like cleaning tubs lol

u/gatorboy240 · 1 pointr/glassheads

If Iso doesn't work i usually go:

http://www.amazon.com/LAS-PURPOSE-CONCENTRATED-TOTALLY-AWESOME/dp/B0017KT3IM
(this can be found @ the dollar tree)

Then (If need be):

http://www.amazon.com/Pro-Acetone-Remover-Fluid-Ounce/dp/B0006PS3KI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449774484&sr=8-1&keywords=acetone
Haven't used this brand, just acetone in general.



Lastly for hardwater/bloom:

http://www.amazon.com/Calcium-Lime-and-Rust-Remover/dp/B00009EFEX
(Publix/Walmart or any other basic market)

u/reeeks · 1 pointr/trees

All you need to clean any piece.

http://www.amazon.com/Simple-Green-13005-All-Purpose-Cleaner/dp/B0000AXNO5/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_img_b

Let your piece soak for a couple hours, rinse with hot water, and it should be squeaky clean.

u/nixfiction · 1 pointr/woodworking

I have used Boeshield rust free to clean rust from cast iron. I'm not trying to be a jerk, but the rust I cleaned wasn't anything close to this. It really started to burn my throat the last time I used it without a mask. Eye protection might be a good idea too.

https://www.amazon.com/Boeshield-RF0008-Rust-Free/dp/B0000DD0F3/ref=pd_bxgy_468_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0000DD0F3&pd_rd_r=1CM4MPBNMV3X4A3VENHQ&pd_rd_w=CiXLJ&pd_rd_wg=Nor9S&psc=1&refRID=1CM4MPBNMV3X4A3VENHQ

I have also used their T9 to protect all my cast iron tops.

u/qqpugla · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

This is awesome

as is this

and finally this

:-D

u/ErichUberSonic · 1 pointr/bikewrench

I have been slowly buying tools this year, based on what I need for basics. So far, this chain cleaner has got a lot of use. I also bought a gallon of simple green degreaser. This is concentrate so it should equal roughly 20 gallons as long as i dilute it. Also gets bar tape super white.

What you do is clean the chain, clean the cassette/crank with degreaser and brush, then lube the chain. The less grime in the chain, the longer the drive train will last.

I also bought a cassette sprocket and chain whip and will occationally (once every 1000 miles or so) take it off and give it a nice soaking and try to get it as clean as possible.

u/Theroach3 · 1 pointr/everymanshouldknow

Soap is a lipophile and works decently for most oils, but if you have a significant amount of it or a stubborn stain, I have used Lestoil. It works for a lot of different stains and is great for things that have set in. Use the hottest temperature water that the garmet can take in the wash cycle. Good Luck with it!

u/KorbanDidIt · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

When I had my awful Hyundai elantra I had hazy headlights and the thing that cleared them up(temporarily) was soft scrub, I imagine that'll remove any residue from the tint.

Like this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000RPXSDY?pc_redir=T1

u/FrijolRefrito · 1 pointr/longboarding

Has anyone waterproof their boards? How did you do it?

I have this spray I've used for hats, do you think that would work on my Trip or mini Penny Killer? Otherwise I'm considering a moonshine board lol. I live in a rainy area so wet conditions are just gonna be a reality of skating here

u/Cephiroth · 1 pointr/dmtguide

I'm using mimosa, but once you're beyond the lye step it shouldn't matter, should it?

Is this what one would be looking for?

u/fatherbowie · 0 pointsr/bikewrench

D-Limonene citrus solvent to clean and Dumonde Tech original to lubricate, although I’m thinking about trying wax of some sort. But the citrus solvent is definitely a fantastic cleaner.

u/CozyThurifer · -1 pointsr/Sneakers