(Part 2) Best appliances according to redditors
We found 807 Reddit comments discussing the best appliances. We ranked the 489 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
I started with just a few things and then listed everything I see... sorry for the spam
(these are all things I have, feel free to ask any Q's)
- Mini Fridge - https://www.amazon.com/Danby-DAR026A1BDD-3-Designer-Refrigerator-2-6-Cubic/dp/B00MO6V96W/ref=sr_1_8?s=kitchen&ie=UTF8&qid=1519347546&sr=1-8&keywords=mini+fridge
- Cup - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUBR8UH/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Air Cleaner - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BI4UQK0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Good Chair Mat - https://www.amazon.com/Black-Chair-Mat-Rectanglular-ABS-RC-4655/dp/B00D83MURM/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_229_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CMJS2EM6STF7XCCJZGWZ&dpID=51%252BWDnIRG0L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail
- Big Boy Ergo Chair - https://www.ergoexperts.com/collections/ergonomic-chairs/products/office-master-iu79hd-24-7-intensive-use-heavy-duty-high-back-ergonomic-task-chair
- Camera Mount - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CMLX1O2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Space Heater - https://www.amazon.com/Lasko-Ceramic-Heater-Remote-Control/dp/B00PYDGN18/ref=sr_1_17?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1519348189&sr=1-17&keywords=lasko+space+heater
- LED Lights - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LX9Z3LH/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Foot Rest - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EN9W3UY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Wrist Rest - https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=node%3D510182&field-keywords=lasko+space+heater&rh=n%3A1055398%2Cn%3A3206324011%2Cn%3A9425950011%2Cn%3A510182%2Ck%3Alasko+space+heater
- Underdesk Headphone hanger - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P31BMHG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Trash Can - https://www.amazon.com/Rubbermaid-Commercial-295700GY-Wastebasket-Rectangular/dp/B079WPRXXS/ref=sr_1_26?ie=UTF8&qid=1519348333&sr=8-26&keywords=trash+can
- Cat Bed - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DJRCQBW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Keyboard - https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=2164
- Keycaps - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/PBT-Backlit-Keycaps-109-Keyset-Top-Printed-Cherry-MX-Key-Caps-For-Tenkeyless-87-104-108/32842167507.html?src=google&albslr=220105582&isdl=y&aff_short_key=UneMJZVf&source=%7Bifdyn:dyn%7D%7Bifpla:pla%7D%7Bifdbm:DBM&albch=DID%7D&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=708-803-3821&isdl=y&albcp=653478879&albag=34653160498&slnk=&trgt=75384829977&plac=&crea=en32842167507&netw=g&device=c&mtctp=&gclid=CjwKCAiA8bnUBRA-EiwAc0hZk62T3uqIKPVAUNx-ATVUQIzI8kscvB4UdNBR5dMpZ46l1gp9aoD38BoCNXQQAvD_BwE
- Mouse - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JPOLLTK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Mouse Mat - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0745N6CMD/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Headphones - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007R99S14/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
& https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008POFOHM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Dac/Amp - https://www.jdslabs.com/products/48/objective2-odac-combo-revb/
- Speakers - https://emotiva.com/products/airmotiv-6s
- Subwoofer - http://www.outlawaudio.com/products/m8.html
- Mic - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KCN83VI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Mic Interface - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012MIVUQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Boom Arm - https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1194415-REG/o_c_white_ulp_mb_proboom_ultima_lp_adjustable.html?sts=pi
- Web Cam Alternative - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G9EYN26/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Lens - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JDGB94S/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- PC Cam Interface - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4SM7H6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Lights Boxes - https://www.amazon.com/LimoStudio-Digital-Photography-Fluorescent-AGG883/dp/B0091HO1FS/ref=sr_1_10?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1519348726&sr=1-10&keywords=16%22+x+24%22++soft+box
- Light Box Stands & Clamp - https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1327281-REG/ultimate_support_17637_jamstands_fixed_length_boom.html
& https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0010CYHW4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Light Bulbs - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IB8O2VU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Clear duct
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000DZFTEO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1510440969&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=clear+dryer+tube&dpPl=1&dpID=41AoDi00moL&ref=plSrch
Or ferret tube ($3 more)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002DJL0K/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1510440876&sr=8-1&keywords=clear+tube+ferret&dpPl=1&dpID=51UTXj57prL&ref=plSrch
You should pick up one of these for next time:
https://www.amazon.com/MagVent-MV-180-Magnetic-Dryer-Coupling/dp/B013TINE4S/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_60_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ECXMV1ZJZF2S774E2615
Spend the bucks on an actual compressor refrigerator when you can, or you will end up spending that much on ice.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013TINE4S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The biggest issue with solar and camping is that most campgrounds have tree cover that makes solar useless. Where are you planning to use it? Will you be able to park your vehicle there, or will you have to move the panels and run a wire to your battery?
The most useful setup, honestly, would be an auxiliary battery in your vehicle with a solar panel you can use to maintain it. That way, if there is no solar at your campsite, you can still charge it with your car. The battery will have to be sized to run the fridge all night long.
A fridge like this will use about 0.55 kWh/day (computed based on this. That means you need a battery rated for 0.55 / (80% inverter efficiency) / (80% cycle depth) = 860 Wh, or 12V/71Ah. That's about the size of an SUV/diesel car battery (I have some BMW 105Ah batteries myself).
The bigger problem is how to replenish this with just solar. A 100W panel will only generate about 500Wh of electricity a day, so you will likely need 150W, and a good sunny place to put them.
Total budget is looking like $200 for panels, $100 for battery, $50 for charge controller, $100 for fridge, so somewhere between $300 and $500 total.
One could set another bucket at a higher level than the FIgJam cooler. Then either use a valve to refill or an aquarium float in the FJ to maintain level. But a FJ cooler will run for4-6hrs. So refilling it is not that big of deal really. (Mine is used for grey water evap so I had a second bucket a valve setup.)
100ah deep cycle batts are the way to go. Don't cheap out and not go deep cycle. (FigJam himself uses a Wal-Mart $80 Deepcycle) Solar panels for other than trickle charge to the batt are labor intensive to keep clean and lose efficiency for the same. So they are good to keep the batt topped off, but not to rely in it running you gear. Unless you are really into solar and know what to expect. It's not all plug and play.
To duct into the tent depends on if you want to cut a hole or not. Some use a dryer duct wall vent. Its glued or screwed the the tent wall. Might have to make a ring to sandwich the material. I would use semi rigid duct as it is stiffer and restricts air flow less then the spring type ducts. Wrap with a towel or foil bubble wrap for some insulation. 5" with one end made to a square fits tightly around the PC fan frame. Problem is 5" is an oddball size for dryer vet fittings that are 4 or 6". Go 6" if you need to chose. less air restriction that way.
If you don't want to cut a hole than you need to stick through the door and seal it up the best you can with a towel or similar.
Be sure to have a vent in the ten to allow air to escape... Swamp are air in - air out cooling.
Here is a link for pumps, fans, media, etc.
If anyone has questions, let me know. I've built a number of them in various forms. Storage bin cooler last year. Trash can version this year. But I use them for grey water evap. A lot less messy then a evap pond or air driven evap.
for those actually interested in buying
This might be something you'd be interested in.
I have the same kind, I got it here!
WE used these on our granite countertops and they have been perfect for 5 years and running: https://www.amazon.com/Granite-Grabbers-Dishwasher-Mounting-Brackets/dp/B002UQ107O
You can cover the Dishwasher in matching stick on fake stainless steel
It looks like this is the light in question. They make a "yellow" light for the same hood, which seems like it would be more to your liking. Check it out. From the picture, it looks like you can just remove the set screws and swap the new lights in with the quick connect cables.
As always, even with low voltage, I recommend turning the power off at the breaker before you touch anything.
You could use that along with some aluminum tape to seal it to the back of the cutter.
I use this blower:
attwood Quiet Blower Water Resistant (White, 4-Inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003EX02DA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3L18BbTB6G1FB
Along with this vent hose:
White Flexible Pvc Vinyl Vent Duct Hose, 4 in. x 20 ft. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G198P5A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4R18BbNJ19ANP
These clamps:
Cambridge Tension Clamps, 2 Pk, Zinc Plated Steel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07737XRRH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SS18Bb12827MZ
And this quick disconnect:
Dryer Dock Dryer Vent 6" for 4" Tubes, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0028BAAWW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4T18BbV6CJ1TW
If you put the blower near the window it will keep negative pressure upstream which helps put less smoke into the room.
I don’t exhaust out a window, but something like this might do the trick for you:
Window Dryer Vent (Adjusts 24 Inch Through 36 Inch) by Vent Works https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M17V4CO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_AW18BbDW0592D
Though there may be cheaper or better DIY options for that part.
I agree with this. Or, if you're lazy, you can buy new drip pans for cheap: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001TH7GZA/ref=mp_s_a_1_1
Have you tried a different dryer vent design? Not advocating the specific product, but something like this.
I had to cut the door shelving a little bit, but I’ve been using this unit for a couple years. All of my standard brewing buckets fit in it with no problem, as well as fermonsters and SSbrewtech Brewbucket. I use an Inkbird temp controller and a 60watt reptile bulb in a cheap surface mount light fixture for heat (I do a lot of kveik ales at 100°F).
Fits two corny kegs side by side as well if you decide to turn it into a kegerator.
Danby DAR026A1BDD-3 Compact Refrigerator, 115 V, 15 A, 1 Door, 2.6 cu.ft, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MO6V96W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uwCADbRYAWQNE
Did you open the valve on the tank? You say the tank is full, but is that based on weight/shaking the tank or from the gauge on the regulator? Remember that the keg will come pressurized, so it'll push beer on it's own for a while until the pressure is used up. I've made the mistake of turning off the gas to the keg but not realizing it because the keg has pressure too.
If the tank gauge on the regulator is 0, then there's no gas coming from the tank.
If the tank gauge isn't 0, but the regulated pressure gauge (measuring the pressure after the regulator) is 0, then the regulator is probably turned completely off and you have a leak after the regulator.
Edit: Looking at pictures of the KC2000 on amazon, it looks like it only has a single output gauge, and no tank gauge.
​
Based on this photo: https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71N%2B3GGevFL._SL1500_.jpg
>Is there any way to build a tallis katan so the tzitzis can be easily removed or transferred between multiple sheets?
They are specifically required to be tied on rather than connected after having been made (obviously another reason Messianic strings are invalid, but that's a different story).
> I've been thinking of starting to wear them, but it seems like one would quickly become fairly dire, even if wool is supposed to suppress smell.
There's really no problem washing them. If you use a cotton garment, the only thing you need to worry about is the strings getting all knotty. In which case you can either hang them to dry after un-knotting them, or buy one of these things that you wrap the strings around during the wash. If you use a wool garment, many dry cleaners will accept it as a scarf.
You're most welcome! I bought the following:
4x100W Panels
Panel Mounting
Solar Panel Connectors
Tool Crimper
Assembly Tool
Panel Connectors
Power Information
CTEK Charger
CTEK SmartPass
200ah AMG Battery
Fuse Block
300W Pure Sine Wave Inverter
LED Strip
Dometic 35 Fridge
I bought all these items with research into my solar needs and following the advice from here in the vandwelling subreddit and also information I gathered from Amazon. I am probably doing a bit of overkill on my solar setup but I thankfully have the money to do it and don't want to mess with adding anything later.
I will have to do research myself on how to combine the four panels into the battery but that will be a few weeks away so I haven't done much in that area. I do plan to buy 10GA wire from Lowes and use the crimping tool and connectors to form my own wiring harness so it will be clean looking. \
EDIT: Adding info.
I use a Digital Temperature Controller with a small chest freezer. Shop around for the freezer, I just used this one 'cause I was on Amazon. Think I got mine at Sam's Club. This is inexpensive to set up and really frugal on electricity. All the cold stays in the compartment when you open it. Also - super insulated compared to a beverage cooler. It's not stainless, but you can get compact chest freezers in black. If you like DIY, you could buy a cheap chest freezer and cover it with [stainless steel laminate] (https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Appliance-BRUSHED-Nickel-Adhesive/dp/B00BAUPS9M/).
They make a terminal block kit that comes with new wires to splice into the harness. And of course you have to buy a new cord. If you are not comfortable splicing wires then you should call someone but it is an easy repair. https://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-279320-Terminal-Block-Dryer/dp/B004XLDCTS
You mean like this?
I have a magnet on my dishwasher which works remarkably well. It's been on there for 5 or 6 years now and actually looks pretty nice.
It looked like this https://www.amazon.com/Appliance-Art-Stainless-Dishwasher-Trimmable/dp/B005DJ7CFE although I don't know if that's the exact one my wife got or not.
Dishwashers are easier because you only ever see the front of them and there is no profile to worry about.
Picture isn't working well.
Are you talking about this?
https://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-279320-Terminal-Block-Dryer/dp/B004XLDCTS
OK, forget about the keezer needing to be under the counter. Mount the tower throught the lid as you normally would, except as far forward as possible. Complete the keezer as you would if it was going to be a stand alone unit.
Roll the keezer under the counter until the uprights of the tower come into contact with the counter top. Determine how much farther back you want the keezer to roll and cut slots in the counter top to accommodate the tower uprights as you roll it the rest of the way in. Round the back of the slots so they fit to the shape of the tower uprights.
As you roll the keezer as far under the counter top , the uprights on the ends of the tower will go all the way into the slots. The keezer will be where you want it now. Sitting or mounting this type of drip tray between the tower and the edge of the counter will hide the open parts of the slots: https://www.amazon.com/YaeBrew-Length-Rectangular-Stainless-Surface/dp/B07PXKJF7C/ref=sr_1_17?keywords=drip+tray+for+beverage+dispenser&qid=1569252720&sr=8-17
When you need to access the keezer to change kegs, etc., just remove the drip tray and roll the keezer out. If you can't find a drip tray long enough use 2 shorter ones.
I use these under my keezer so can be rolled out: https://smile.amazon.com/SoftTouch-4260795N-Waxman-Expandable-Appliance/dp/B004670WB0/ref=sr_1_1?crid=39I3MCSQYDQ0D&keywords=rollers+for+refrigerator&qid=1569253660&sprefix=rollers+for+refr%2Caps%2C394&sr=8-1
They only increase the height by about 1 1/4".
This, the hot pot pot is more or less only used for hot pot purpose. It doesn't need to be anything fancy. If you're going to spend $30+ on a hot pot pot, you might as well get the rosewill combo link Extra induction stove for $20.
Your dishwasher should have caps just inside the door on the side that pop off to reveal holes. You can screw in to the cabinets on either side here and not need to screw in the top at all.
EDIT ignore, it helps if I read the whole post.
I had luck with these adhesive mounting things from Amazon. Let me find the link.
Granite Grabbers Dishwasher Mounting Brackets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UQ107O/
My dad knows the seller, the seller almost never used it. I'll probably still get it checked out though.
I like the idea of a chest freezer. The top loading is obviously a plus. However, I did find this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N142GLI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3HNFJPL3ZEWY1&psc=1
What do you think?
Also, after insulation is installed, can I use wood or plastic paneling for the interior?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MEOVWRK/
Could you run it inside the wall, up and out the roof with something like this?
If I were you, I'd consider removing the exterior siding and window from that wall, since it's now an indoor wall, and switching it to drywall. Do exterior siding and windows on the outside of your home. This will also help make your add-on look less like an add-on.
If you pull the siding off, you can try to re-run the duct inside the wall while the wall is open.
Well... cannibalizing is really the way to go. Cheaper on craigslist, but you get everything you need in one of these, you just have to configure it to fit your own box if you need something different.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00YEMSMYQ
05 Mercedes Sprinter Camper Van/132k miles, SOLAR, 158 wb $25000 (East Sacramento)
Imgur Mirror Link
>2005 Mercedes / Dodge Sprinter Camper Van
>Clean Title
>132k miles
>Highly Desired 158 wheelbase with 5 cylinder T1N engine, runs great and gets
>25-27 mpg!
>No DEF fluid needed (pre 2007)
>Come join the amazing Van Life world with this ready to go Camper Van! We
>spent months meticulously setting up this van to be simple and functional
>while still providing luxuries such as a sink, comfortable bed and
>refrigeration.
>We used this van for countless climbing trips, mountain biking and ski trips.
>Large diesel tank and great gas mileage. Very comfortable for long trips.
>AM/FM/CD/Bluetooth stereo with upgraded speakers. Kept up on maintenance,
>fresh oil change and brand new smog certificate all completed at Kniesel's
>Auto Service. Rebuilt AC unit last year.
>We really love this Van (named Pedro) however it is the point in our life
>where we need to buy a home and settle down- this Van still has a lot of
>adventuring left in its life, it just needs a new home!
>Converted into camper van with the following items!
>Front passenger swivel seat
>Solar System:
>2 Renogy 100 W Solar Panels
>Renogy MPPT 20 Amp Charge Controller (MPPT is %30 more efficient, equivalent
>of a 3rd panel!
>155 Amp Hour AGM Gel Deep Cycle Battery
>-The solar powers the fridge, vent fan, lighting and charges your phone/runs your laptop etc with no problem in California! In the Northwest you may want to add a second battery or third panel which would be very easy to do for under $500. However in CA we have had no problem with power.
>Inverter:
>Tripp Lite APS750 Inverter / Charger 750W 12V DC to 120V AC 20A 5-15R 2 Outlet
>&gt This inverter will allow you to run AC power and it also functions as a
>Converter so you can charge your battery by simply plugging in to a regular
>power outlet! (You shouldn't have to charge from an outlet unless you are
>completely in the shade for several days)
>*I was an aircraft electrician and completed all the electrical work myself. All components are properly fuzed and grounded safely. I will include an easy to follow diagram of the system
>Refrigerator:
>Dometic CFX-35US Portable Electric Cooler Refrigerator/Freezer - 34 Quarts
>https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T36NUYA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp psc=1
>&gt High efficiency refrigerator that runs completely off solar.
>Fantastic Fan Ventilation
>Custom built butcher block counter tops with fresh water faucet
>Custom built cabinets and drawers
>Custom built Bookshelf
>Laminate flooring with rubber flooring in the rear for storage
>Custom built bed with mattress
>CO Monitor
>Fire extinguisher
>Tire Chains
>tags: freightliner promaster 2500 1500 158 170 140 diesel RV campervan camper
 
2005 mercedes-benz sprinter cargo van|
:-
condition:good|
cylinders:5 cylinders|
drive:fwd|
fuel:diesel|
odometer:132500|
paint color:white|
title status:clean|
transmission:automatic|
type:van|
---
^| ^I'm ^a ^bot ^| ^For ^bug ^reports, ^suggestions, ^or ^if ^you ^want ^me ^in ^your ^sub ^message ^/u/Vendigroth ^|
Sounds like you already tried a short metal connector but said it wouldn't fit. I'm surprised that you couldn't get the ruffled side in enough give you something to grip. Sometimes you need to get some pliers and manipulate the edges to get it to cram in.
But anyway, Maybe try something like this. https://www.amazon.com/Dryer-Dock-Vent-Tubes-White/dp/B0028BAAWW
Even if the white plastic part doesn't fit in your hole you could saw that part off with a coping saw or something so it sits flush against the hole and attach it stud/drywall around the hole.
This model doesn't appear to have that option. I wouldn't recommend doing it if there is no knock out on the side. http://www.maytag.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/OCManualsLiteratureSearchResultView?catalogId=10562&langId=-1&storeId=10212
You can get the low clearance kit like this to go from rear to side https://www.amazon.com/Inlet-Aluminum-Dryer-Vent-Duct/dp/B001AH3K72/ref=pd_sim_sbs_201_6?ie=UTF8&dpID=312n068d4NL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=0Z4JM6K38G5N4DHBBAAF
new dishwashers come with metal clips and mount to the sides of the adjacent cabinets. for old top mounting ones use granite grabbers.
Somebody on this sub recommended these things but I'm worried they won't roll on carpet. The laundry room is tile (or was it laminate?) but the room outside is carpet.
(reposting this comment with the right link format)
We probably could've. We had a rotating beer tap and the coffee tap in one of these.
It wouldn't have been anything more than pulling the hose off and running water through it, but people are lazy.
Can you afford a minifridge? You can get a 4.4 cu. ft one on Amazon for about $183, or 2.6 cu. ft. one for $146. Unless you buy in bulk, the 4.4 might be good enough for your basic items. I've had the 1.7 cu. ft. since 2012 and it's still going strong. It gets cold enough to freeze drinks. I can fit 1 gallon of milk in it and some other things. But, I keep it in my room mainly for drinks. If you're using it in a dorm and plan to keep food and such, then I'd suggest 4.4.
https://www.amazon.com/Danby-DAR026A1BDD-3-Designer-Refrigerator-2-6-Cubic/dp/B00MO6V96W/
Hey!
So, I know this isn't 'conventional' water/liquid cooling, but I am not sure what's the right place to ask.
I've recently gotten "re-interested" in mineral oil cooling. Back in the gap, Pudget Systems was trying to refine the idea of mineral oil cooling. I've tried to gain insight from their writing but some of it is vague.
My first question pertains to oil "climbing" out of the enclosure via cables:
>The custom motherboard tray also allows us to install a power socket, and a control valve for the air hose. These connection points serve a distinct purpose! By not running any cables directly into the oil, we prevent wicking.
I can't really see what's going on in their pictures. It almost looks like the motherboard I/O is just barely sticking out the top of the mineral oil. Their power cable solution looks similar to what I was thinking: Using some sort of plug/cable like this secured to the case with a rubber gasket to help seal the oil in.
Would "plug extensions" of this sort combined with a gasket form a good enough seal to prevent mineral oil leaking/climbing/wicking? Do you think I can find similar extensions and gaskets for Ethernet, USB, and other kinds of cables?
Will wireless peripherials/receivers work if submerged in mineral oil?
Are there any special considerations I should make when selecting pumps, tubes, radiators, or reservoirs for a mineral oil system?
How do you think the cost of mineral oil vs traditional liquid cooling compares?
I've already got a new 4-prong cord but I need to replace the tab on the right there first. Would a butt splice electrical taped on be alright?
Edit: Bought everything I need, thanks everyone for the input.
I've heard about dryer tubes from others so I ordered this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000DZFTEO/ and it was half the price of a Marshall's thru-way. Unfortunately, it was also half the distance of the thru-way and the plastic was very thin. I recently had to throw it out because it was torn in places and the wire at the end was poking through and scratching them. Meanwhile, the stupid Marshalls tube has lasted years so I think it's worth the extra $.
Cereal boxes you say? Ok, I'm inspired. Sometimes I tape together beer boxes to make little forts for them to play it, but I'm thinking if I cut up the cereal boxes and roll them, tape then into a tube shape, they'd love it! I could even attach them to the beer box....
Am I a crazy ferret lady? Yes.
I put a little 1.1 cu freezer on my registry at Amazon. We don't have room for making up some freezer meals, and we definitely don't have room for breast milk, so this seemed like a good plan. If nothing else, we would then be able to buy the big packages of meat and break it up into meal portions.
About eight years ago, I mailed four heavy spanner wrenches that all fit perfectly into a single SMALL flat rate box. Went from Florida to Washington State for like $5 or $6 at the time.
I have a Dometic CF-35 that draws 4 Amps when running (48W) but it only runs 1/4 or less of the time, so that would come close to your requirement.
https://www.amazon.com/Dometic-CFX-35US-Portable-Electric-Refrigerator/dp/B00T36NUYA/
But, it's pretty large.
The CF-18 is somewhat smaller outside: https://www.amazon.com/Dometic-CF-018-D65-B-Portable-Refrigerator-Personal/dp/B0136TQ65Y/
The CF-10 is smaller, still: https://www.amazon.com/Dometic-CF-018-D65-B-Portable-Refrigerator-Personal/dp/B005X97OHA/
https://www.amazon.com/Stanco-Universal-Electric-Chrome-Reflector/dp/B001TH7GZA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1485565528&sr=8-4&keywords=stove+burner
If you can get an induction heater, and a toaster oven you would be able to cook almost anything in your dorm.
My parents bought something similar for my grandparents, they frequently forget to close the stove. So they use induction stove with auto shutoff (when it reaches a certain temperature).
https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Induction-Electric-Stainless-RHAI-13001/dp/B00GTZMHOW
No wifi, but similar purpose. I'm sure you can find one with wifi and auto shut off.
If you prefer yellow to white, you can try this.
I just searched amazon for the model number. If that clip works you should be good even without solder.
Edit: read the reviews carefully, lots of comments saying it goes too far the other way.
> I know nothing of electrical.
Leave them the way they are then.
Electrical stuff isn't overwhelmingly difficult, and with only 12V, you're not likely to hurt yourself, but it's easy to end up with no light at all if you do the wrong thing. Also the light appears to (maybe) be potted in #2, which means that even if you understand the electrical part, there may be other considerations for harsh environments that might not occur to you.
Is there a connector on the wire? Would this yellow light be a suitable replacement? I wouldn't consider unplugging one light and plugging in another "electrical work".
What about something like this? https://www.amazon.com/SoftTouch-4260795N-Waxman-Expandable-Appliance/dp/B004670WB0 I bought it to put under my cat's litter box so I could easily slide it out from under a shelf. The only downside is that is doesnt turn easily.
I struggled with this for a year after buying a house with an improperly attached dishwasher under a granite countertop. I tried the stick on Granite Grabbers (https://www.amazon.com/Granite-Grabbers-Dishwasher-Mounting-Brackets/dp/B002UQ107O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487032272&sr=8-1&keywords=dishwasher+attachment) but our counter surface on the bottom side was too rough and they never stuck. I ended up buying this mounting bracket (https://www.amazon.com/E-Z-Dishwasher-Bracket-by-EZ/dp/B01N0GWLK7/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1487032307&sr=8-2&keywords=dishwasher+mounting) and screwing in some additional wooden braces on both sides
I'm looking at this refrigerator, which draws 43 W.
And this solar panel produces 100 W.
If the solar panels can produce more power than the refrigerator requires, wouldn't it be possible to power the device irrespective of the voltage/amperage, since I can convert the voltage/amperage with converters and all?
Not to sure what could be causing it. Probaby won't get to far trying to figure out what it is unless you tear it apart and you know what you are looking for.
Haier is an option it is inexpensive as fuck.
I'm not a big fan of Haier or Danby or Avanti but those are the ones that will be around your Price Range. Frigidaire makes a 1.7 that is going for 250~ right now.
Are you referring to a spanner wrench as well?
Would you recommend this one?
https://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Whirlpool-Washing-Machine-Spanner-Wrench/TB123A/1021707?modelNumber=WTW5510VQ0&ss=a11b5i321d705910&mr=1
Or this one
https://www.amazon.com/Supco-TB123A-Spanner-Wrench/dp/B00A8O0E72/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1493733223&sr=8-3&keywords=spanner+wrench
The dryer is likely fine.
Don't be surprised if your washer has some leaks. Our home actually has two washer/dryer hookups, we have a washer/dryer in both, but one pair is very seldom used. If the washer sits for more than a month or so unused, the bottom seal dries out and it drips/splatters water. I replaced the seal a few times; we finally decided to just stop using it altogether. The most expensive part of the repair was buying a special wrench to remove the tub nut. You'll probably need one too - research and make sure you get the right one for your model.
I would hook it up in your driveway first, plug it in with an extension cord and run it through a cycle to look for leaks. Just use a cheap hose splitter with a garden hose and hookup both hot and cold sides to your garden hose.
Get him a kegerator. It's an experience and a material object.
http://www.amazon.com/EdgeStar-Full-Size-Kegerator-Cooler/dp/B0170NWHDM/ref=pd_sbs_265_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=310qx%2BK9WLL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0XQ40JWFYM38P16BYCTW
https://smile.amazon.com/Dometic-CFX-50US-Portable-Electric-Refrigerator/dp/B01ENA4ZE4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522194318&sr=8-1&keywords=Dometic+CFX-50US&dpID=51zix8%252BNzHL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
Ferrets do well in groups, and a friend is recommended if possible. We had a deaf girl, and she was the most adorable of the bunch, never had many health problems, and any she had could more likely be attributed to being the runt of the litter.
Is your vet a general vet or an exotic vet? Some veterinarians don't have much experience with ferrets.
What kind of temperature is she usually in, how old is she, and does she drag herself when walking? Energy levels could be a contributor.
Ferrets each like different things, and there are many things to try, but if she likes the tunnel, I suggest looking at clear plastic dryer tubing, Like this one
Yep! Here it is: https://www.amazon.com/Appliance-Instant-Stainless-Magnet-Dishwasher/dp/B005DJ7CFE
But the covers over my burners are also made of metal and the nice ones are either covered in ceramic, or are simply metal. I don't see how this changes anything. For example http://www.amazon.com/Stanco-Universal-Electric-Chrome-Reflector/dp/B001TH7GZA
Spend 10 bucks please, that catch pan is disgusting
https://www.amazon.com/Stanco-Universal-Electric-Chrome-Reflector/dp/B001TH7GZA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485557597&sr=8-1&keywords=oven+burner+drip+pans
I need it for connecting two boxes that have these https://www.amazon.com/Panel-Power-Inlet-Sockets-Connectors/dp/B00843KZP0#Ask on them