Best aquarium filters according to redditors

I would replace the under-gravel filter altogether, with either a hang-on filter or a canister. In my experience they are at least 10 times more effective at filtering than a UGF and waaaaay easier to maintain. You need a good filtration unit for goldfish, because they are a bit messy. I would recommend getting a Hagen AquaClear 70 (or bigger, according to the size of your aquarium)

I never know if posts like these are troll posts or not. I'm assuming that by having to confidence to post a picture of your fish, you've at least browsed through other people's posts and seen the proper conditions that a betta fish should be kept in.


I'm really hoping that either this is a troll post, or that you just have no idea that the conditions you've kept your fish in are borderline inhumane. :/ He has horrible fin rot, and is missing the whole top part of his fins. Before you come back with "but he's been with us for FOUR years, he must be okay!" I can keep a dog in a closet for years with food and water and he'd probably live a long time too. Ever heard about that woman who was kidnapped and kept in confinement for 18 years? A being's conditions won't kill them immediately, but the stresses of their environments will cause them to lead miserable lives.


In case you care about him, he needs a few (super, SUPER easy) things.

• A bigger tank. ASAP. At least 2.5 gallons, but 5 is better and only a couple dollars more at petco. 5 gallon tanks are about $15 at Petco.
  
  
• A heater for that bigger tank. Bettas are tropical fish and they NEED warmer temps. 76-80 degrees. A decent heater (I use the Hydor Theo 25 watt heater) will set you back $18.
  
  
• A filter. You can find many of these for a decent price, but for small tanks I prefer the Aqueon Quietflow Internal Power Filter. These are roughly $20.
  
  
  The total cost of getting your friend an ideal setup is about $53. You'll notice a huge difference in the behavior of your betta, and he'll be much happier. I can't stress this enough; he is not happy, and your friend of 4 years deserves better. This post was NOT made in anger, but rather in concern for you and your fish. Please take this advice, and remember to cycle the tank!
  
  

It sounds like Swim Bladder Disorder, which, while alarming to see, is actually not life threatening in most cases. He will most likely heal on his own in time, if you give him a good suitable environment for him.

I recommend Seachem Prime as a water conditioner, it's the board favourite around here and the good thing about it is that it converts ammonia (produced from fish waste and anything else decomposing in the tank, is toxic to fish) into a harmless form for 24 hours. Since you do not have the Nitrogen cycle established in your tank, this property will be very useful in keeping your fish comfortable while the cycle gets started.

If you don't know what it is yet, please read this article about the Nitrogen Cycle and then this guide to Fish-in Cycling. This is not optional information in fishkeeping!

By the way, those fake plants you have--bettas have very delicate fins that are easily torn on the typical plastic aquarium plant; here we have something that's referred to as the "pantyhose test", which is basically what it sounds like--stretch a pair of pantyhose over your fingers, and run it over any tank decorations you have. If the decorations snag the pantyhose, they are rough/sharp enough to tear a betta's fins. For this reason, silk fabric plants are recommended for betta tanks over plastic plants. Make sure any hides you have for him don't have any holes small enough that he'd get stuck (I learned this one the hard way), bettas are curious fish and like to stick their heads in everything.

I posted this list of affordable but good tank supplies for someone else yesterday, so here you go:

Here is a list of affordable supplies:

Aqueon Quietflow Filter, $14. I replaced the filter cartridges inside this unit with ceramic filter media (gives nitrifying good bacteria a place to grow for biological filtration) and Seachem Purigen (absorbs organic waste) along with a good chunk of filter floss (way cheaper than buying filter pads) to make it more effective, but it's not strictly necessary if you're on a budget.

Hydor Theo Submersible Glass Heater, $20. This is my favourite heater, I've set up five tanks so far using this model. It heats up well, holds the temperature steady automatically, and it's adjustable, so if you ever need to turn up the temperature (sometimes needed to treat illness), you're all set.

Seachem Prime, $5

API Master Testing Kit, $19. This is extremely helpful to have when setting up your tank, so you can test the ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels in your water. All three are toxic to fish in high quantities, in order of most to least bad.

If your betta is sulky or a picky eater, you can try tempting him with freeze-dried bloodworms (but feed very little, as they expand when they get wet and are super fattening) or soaking his pellets in garlic juice.

Edit: Also, yeah, do not feed him "generic" fish pellets. Bettas are carnivores and need to be fed as such. I suggest Hikari Bio-Gold betta pellets.

I used this uv sterilizer on my 29 planted and along with a big water change it cleared up very quickly.

These are CDN$ prices for what I spent on my tank that, granted, is smaller than this and does not have carpeting plants. I’ve spent maybe $40 more on it since just replenishing food, ferts, and buying more livestock. Tank is a little over a year old.

$70 - 10 gal aquarium kit includes led lights, filter, filter media for ~6 months, water conditioner for ~1yr, fish flakes for ~3 months

$40 - caribsea eco complete planted substrate (this is your gravel, for any newbies out there)

$5 - thrifted giant hunk of driftwood

$8 - Java Moss
$5 - Hygrophilia Polysperma (I think, can’t remember the name of what I’ve got)
$10 - a couple other plants I grabbed off a local aquarium buy and sell

$20 - 6 red cherry shrimp to start my initial colony
$3 - nerite snail (keeps the glass clean)

$12 - flourish excel (liquid carbon. Keeps the algae in check)

Totals in at $173 for initial startup cost. Let’s round to $200 because I probably forgot something.

My plants grow like weeds, so even though it started out kinda patchy, it filled out in 4-6 months. I don’t have carpeting plants like this guy but I’d like to experiment. Hoping to snag this co2 kit in the future which runs $40 https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0049RL3H4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uAKUAb2430135

I’m pretty happy with it the way it is and I have minimal maintenance right now so I might just leave it. It’s a nice little piece of art/houseplant/water feature/entertainment

https://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-20-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FVG/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1504219125&sr=1-1&keywords=aquaclear+20

The major issues why this doesn't work well are:

1. Most of your growth in a loop isn't in the freely moving water column, it's in the nooks and crannies of blocks and fittings. This is why biocides and kill coils work - the biocidal agents are transported along with the water and reach those nooks. A UV light won't hit those at all.
   
   
2. Even if algae did grow solely in the free-moving water, semi-transparent color additives (let alone the opaque ones) that everyone likes severely reduce the effectiveness of UV lights. You'd likely have to use pure distilled water with no color, and most people like color.
   
   
3. UV light quickly breaks down the plastics and other materials commonly used in loops today - you'd probably need different materials like FEP for anything that might get even incidental light leakage hitting it.
   
   
4. UV bulbs lose effectiveness rapidly with continuous use, and especially one small enough to fit into a loop would have to be replaced fairly often, which:
   

• likely adds more maintenance time and frequency than it saves (thus negating the whole point)
  
• adds cost
  
• is somewhat dangerous if you make it accessible due to the risk of retinal damage - most are sold as opaque sealed units for this reason
  
  

5. Bulbs can add a fair amount of heat and the point of a loop is to reduce heat.
   
   ----
   
   There are actually small, reasonably priced and effective ones if you want to try it. You can order some direct, or you could probably just do something like take the powerhead off one of these and use it inline:
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001KP9B2W
   
   

5.5 gallon tank from petco - 12 dollars (or if you can go today 10 gallon for 10 dollars plus tax)

Heater - 12 to 15 dollars (I like this one but there is also this one here)

Filter - 13 dollars to 25 dollars (It may need baffled or This one though it's a bit more expensive but I prefer it just remember a filter is just something to push water through it. Also can look into sponge filters)

Substrate - 0 for bare bottom or 10 dollars for some cheap sand at petco This sand to be exact.

Light - 42 dollars This is what I'd buy but you can find cheaper or just do grow lights in little plug ins

I'd keep at least 30 for plants but you can get some cheaper live plants or maybe find some cuttings for free.

Total is 47 dollars for a proper set up not including plants since I don't know what you can do in your area. With my over priced light for your set up it's 89

Seconded. I've had great results running a small UV sterilizer for a few days at a time as needed.

Repeating and adding on to what's already been said, neither would do well in that "tank". It's too small for any fish to live comfortably and doesn't allow for many if the things needed for fish to thrive. Because you're asking a question like this you must be new to fish keeping, which isn't a bad thing. As far as the tank goes, I would try and return it if possible. Like /u/_ataraxia said, goldfish need 30-40 gallons, minimum. To better display the reason why, here is a comparason of the goldfish you buy at the store to a full grown adult. Bettas also need larger, 2.5 gallons is the semi-agreed upon minimum for bettas. I put "semi" there because many argue that 5 or 10 gallons should be the minimum.

If you want to get some fish for you daughter and care for them in a humane way I'd invest in a 10 gallon tank. 10s are small enough to be affordable for beginners and allow for more than one fish to be kept in the tank. /u/kamikazeX already mentioned that petco has a $1 per gallon sale on now which you should really take advantage of if you want to commit to this. Personally, I think a 20 gallon long tank would be much better and would only cost about $10-15 more to set up and will make your life easier. Believe it or not bigger is better and the bigger the tank the less maintenance you have to do. For things you should research a small list would be:

• The nitrogen cycle and how to cycle a tank without fish, you may want to add fish right away but that would likely kill them due to ammonia poisoning
  
  
• What fish can fit in your tank
  
  
• Please, please, pleeeaaaaaaaaase research an individual fish before buying it. All too often people buy baby common plecos aka "sucker fish" when they're little, without knowing that they get massive
  
  As far as what I'd recommend buying to get started is:
  
  
• 20 Gallon long or 10 galon (up to you, but the 20 is easier to care for)
  
  
• Aquaclear 50 (if you wanted to go with the 20) or an Aquaclear 30 (for a 10 gallon)
  
  
• Black sand (the colorful gravel may be appealing, but the paint can wear off). I say black because with the darker substrate fish show more natural colors and look better.
  
  
• Fake or real plants and some rocks or caves (personally I think that the more natural the better, and live plants help manage nitrates)
  
  
• Decent lights
  
• Small heater or an appropriate size
  
  There may be similar products for lower prices, but with aquariums you always want to buy nice, not twice. When/if you get a proper tank and it is time to add fish go to trhe store and find the ones you like, write down what they are and leave. Don't buy them, leave. Go home and do your research so you know how to care for what you're getting and that it will do well in your tank. The last time I bought fish I had done a week of research on what I was buying.

Neither of them are good. Honestly, I'd grab one from Amazon if you have time. Pick up an Aquaclear 30 or 50. They're 10x better than these.

Both these filters are some of the lowest on the market.

This one hands down. Customizable with whatever media you want to filter with and you can control the flow.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0032G8TPW?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title&th=1

I wouldn't recommend anything smaller than 10 gallons, personally. I have a really hard time keeping the water parameters where I like them on my 10 gallon.

10 gallons is nice because you aren't limited to just one fish, which is what you would be limited to with anything smaller.

I would recommend a 10 gallon and letting your son pick out the decorations, and put in a few anubias or easy-care plants into the gravel.

As far as your heater goes, I would recommend an adjustable one rather than a single-temp. Additionally, for ease of accurate readings I would buy a digital thermometer.

For filtration, I really like the Marineland hang on the back filters, such as this one.

http://www.amazon.com/Marineland-Penguin-Power-Filter-70-Gallon/dp/B0009IMDQM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1414876612&sr=8-2&keywords=marineland+filter

And for lighting, it all depends on if you decide you want real plants or fake plants - fake plants, any old lighting will work. If you want real plants, I'd recommend the Finnex planted+. I bought a Finnex RayII for my 37gallon and it's too much light, so I'm not getting the growth I'd like since I don't have a CO2 system.

If you must insist on using those $10 pumps for water movement, why not just get one of these? It's slightly bigger, but it has mechanical filtration which is significantly better than just moving the water around.

Note, I own the same pumps in your video and I also own the Elite Mini and it's not much bigger. I can say from experience that it's worth it to have a power filter running.

Unless I am mistaken, they are Marina Power S10s.

They are cheap and awesome. LINK

The top review on Amazon for your filter says this:
> [This filter works great when setup properly. Most people set them up wrong. All filter pads must go on the bottom tray. Coarse, medium and fine filter pads.(none on top) This only comes with 3 Medium pads in each tray. And then your bio media in the middle or top. (Bio media not included) I just fill the top 2 with bio media.]
(http://www.amazon.com/4-Stage-External-Canister-Sterilizer-Aquarium/dp/B00896IILA#customerReviews)

So make sure you are setting it up properly and buy a biological filter right away.

Here's what you'll need:

• 5+ gallon tank with a lid. You can go for one of the nicer-looking (but more expensive ones) or just a plain ol' tank from any pet store. Lids are necessary because bettas are jumpy by nature.
  
  
• Heater. Bettas are tropical fish so you need something that can keep the water at around 78ºF. I'd really reccomend an adjustable one because A) you can do extra fine-tuning and B) you can bump the temperature up if you need to (if the room gets extra cold, or if your betta gets stick, etc). Here's what I use in my 5.5g.
  
  
• Thermometer. Nothing fancy, but you need something so you can know what the temperature is. Get an internal one instead of the ones that stick on the front of the glass (those aren't very accurate). Again, you can find them at any pet store for a couple bucks.
  
  
• Filter. Filters are a must because they house the bacteria that maintain a tank's cycle (preventing your fish from getting poisoned). I would reccomend either reading up on the nitrogen cycle yourself and teaching your friend or giving them a link to a guide, since if they've got the fish in a little container they probably know nothing about it. An air pump + sponge filter is a cheap way to do it but as long as you can get a filter that makes less of a current you're good. Bettas (especially ones with long heavy fins) don't like fast flowing water. I've got this one in my 5.5g. The fact that it's adjustable is super convenient.
  
  
• Substrate. Looks nice, add extra surface area for more bacteria to grow, A+. You can get either gravel or sand. If you want to go cheap, regular pool filter sand or black diamond blasting sand will get you a ton for a few bucks.
  
  
• Decor. Bettas appreciate densely planted/decorated tanks with lots of hiding places. Make sure anything you get isn't rough/sharp enough to snag panty hose, because that means it'll also tear betta fins. That means no coarse decorations, plastic plants, etc. Silk plants are popular, and mugs are an easy way to add a little cave.
  
  
• Gravel vac. When you're doing water changes you need a gravel vacuum to clean down in the gravel. I've found that this one is a great size for my 5.5g. Others I've tried pull out water too fast to get a good cleaning in before you've removed the water you need to. She'll probably need some container to put the water into as well. I just use a plastic 1-gallon pitcher for my 5.5.
  
  
• Test kit. Back to cycling, you need to have a test kit so you can know the pH, concentration of ammonia, concentration of nitrite, and concentration of nitrate in the tank. The API freshwater master test kit is far and away the most popular since it provides all four. Whatever you get, go for the liquid kits rather than the strips because strips aren't very accurate.
  
  
• Betta food, but she probably already has that. Although if she's got flakes it'd be a good idea to move her over to pellets, since flakes make the water a lot dirtier. Also I would reccomend you advise her on how much she should be feeding her betta. They're little piggies and will eat themselves sick if you let them, so people who don't research betta care are prone to overfeeding.
  
  
• Water conditioner. Water conditioner removes chlorine from tap water so fish can live in it. Oftentimes you'll see betta-specific water conditioner at stores, but this is just a scam that preys on folks who don't know better. It's overpriced, comes in tiny bottles, and is watered down. At 1/10 mL per gallon, a single bottle of Prime for instance is way cheaper and will last way longer. I'd reccomend you also get a 1mL syringe for easy dosing. Whenever I want one I pick one up from my school's chemistry stockroom for like 25 cents.

Go for a tiny canister filter and hide it under the tank! All you will see are a small intake and spray bar/outflow tube. This is a good one, SunSun HW-602B 106 GPH 3-Stage External Canister Filter. For a SUPER clean look get a set of glass "lily pipes" for the intake/outflow. Don't be intimidated by a canister filter they really work great and are easy to maintain, I only rinse out my filter material every 3 months on my Fluval 406 on my 40gal.

Before I answer your questions, I want you to know that getting more advanced meaning spending a lot more money and time. A lot us learn by making mistakes, and that's how I started, by making a lot of mistakes.

I don't know what level of planting you want to do. It can be as easy as adding a few amazon swords into your tank right now, or as difficult as buying new light, CO2 equipment, fertilizers, etc.

If you want to save a lot of money from mistakes then here is what you should do:

• Buy a new tank. preferably a big one like a 75G at least since you'll probably want a lot of fish and some of those fish will need a good size tank. I think 75G minimum is the perfect size for beginner as oppose to 55G because of the width. It gives you comfort zone for a lot of fish. Look for it on craiglist first, and be patient. Of course you can get bigger tank if you want
  
  
• You'll need substrates. I personally like Eco-Complete. $22.99 on Amazon. You can also have a layer of sand on top. I use pool filter sand. Something like this
  
  
• You'll need light. 7000k Light is great for plants. LEDs will save you tons of money in the long run. Personally recommend Finnex. They simply have the best LEDs out there. There is a used one on Ebay for very cheap. link I don't know how much I can trust them, I personally would buy a new one if I have the money.
  
  
• You'll need plants. If you live close by Miami, I can give you a few good places to go to. If not your LFS can provide you with these. There is also a seller on Ebay called FishRUs who has some very good plants. You can start with amazon swords, anubias, or whatever plants you want. You'll make mistakes and kill plants, but that's what we humans do. Just make sure you utilize google.
  
  
• You'll need fertilizers. Don't waste your money on Seachem. Read this page Fertilizer can be purchased here
  
  
• You'll need a CO2 system. Aquatek Mini for 87.99 + CO2 tank $26.59. Then go to a local paintball shop and refill your CO2 bottle for $3-4.
  
  
• Water change. You can use Aqueon Water Changer $27.99 you can also buy the 50FT version if you need. You won't regret this buy, trust me.
  
  
• You'll need a filter. Sunsun Canister Pro Kit $97.99 Probably the best canister out there for this price. You can go FX5 if you have the money.
  
  
• Purigen filter media ~$20
  
  
• API Test Kit $22.99
  
  
• There are a wide variety of cichlid. I don't know what you like, but I personally LOVE South America cichlids. These fish are also compatible with your gouramis. You can get a few rams, and 4 angelfish to begin. Discus are beautiful, but don't try it until you feel comfortable with the basics and do enough research. Along with those, you can also get some tetras and corys catfish.

AquaClear 50 Power Filter - 110 V, UL Listed (Includes AquaClear 50 Carbon, AquaClear 50 Foam & AquaClear 50 BioMax https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000260FUM/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_FxaIwbW79Q96B

People swear by this filter. I'm actually about to purchase it for my 10 gallon as well and you can adjust the filter media and water flow on it too.

My point is that no matter what size tank OP buys, it's going to be too small. Bitching about it seems kind of dumb since it would be impossible for the average person to own a large enough tank.

The only thin OP actually needs would be a filter. Something like this will be enough for these little guys to live long happy lives. That plus regular/appropriate water changes and they'll live 20+ years easy.

It's really easy to criticize someone for their tank size when sitting across the globe and not actually paying the bill. I'm just tired of the hypocrisy. If everyone is actually concerned about the size of this type of fishes living space, they wouldn't put these fish up for sale to begin with, boycott the store that do, and tell everyone not to buy them or return them immediately... but then again, we're talking about a fish. An animal that society has universally agreed on as being less than almost all other living things. Many don't consider them meat.... I'm getting off topic but I'm at a [7] and trying to paint a picture. It's just silly to criticize or make OP feel bad for their tank size when the problem is so much worse.

10 gal is fine. I started my first SW tank a couple months ago and I got a 6 gal. Now, you will have to have to have live rock. Without it, it will be nearly impossible to have a stable tank. I suggest you get around 15 pounds. Get all the live rock you plan to have in you tank at once so your parameters don't get an ammonia spike if you have a fish inside. Aragonite sand should be fine. I would stay FOWLR (fish only with live rock) because corals are much harder. The cycle is also very similar. Set up your tank, add sand, fill with a few inches of water, add rocks and aquascape, fill up with water, add a deli shrimp, and you should be good to go. You will need some salt, a hydrometer, a good reliable heater, some lighting, a power head and test kit. And also a filter.
This is what I would get
http://amzn.com/B000260FUM
I would put the bio rings and carbon aside and replace with this,
http://amzn.com/B0002A5VK2
http://amzn.com/B004PBD4J4
Add the matrix when you start cycling, then add the purigen when you are getting fish. The reviews are speaking for the product. Purigen is simply a godsend
http://amzn.com/B00019JOSO
Go for a refractometer if you can afford it but this works fine for me as long as I tap it an there are no bubbles.
http://amzn.com/B001EUE808
The test kit.
http://amzn.com/B0036S4YZ0
This powerhead should do fine in a 10 gallon.
http://amzn.com/B003M7P9YU
This is one of the best most reliable heaters on the market. Many will fail and bake your tank but not the jagar.
http://amzn.com/B003EE5GUS
These make life a whole lot easier BN testing water or adding things like calcium. You get 10 so they should def last a while.
http://amzn.com/B008SJ1H7A
Get like 5 of these. They are extremely accurate and last around 3 months each. Wrap the wire around the tank and have one on at all times. They also help when doing water changes. You should also pick up an extra heater for water changes, via aqua and aqua top have good ones. These are made in china and sent out to companies like coralife to be package and sold for like 10 dollars, see
http://amzn.com/B0002DI4TO

Now, this is the salt I use for water changes,
http://amzn.com/B0002DJU0G
This should last you a year or two and is way cheaper then continually buying salt. I personally use tap water that has been heavily decholinated with this,
http://amzn.com/B00176CVK8
You should get your tap water tested for copper which can kill invertebrates. A 5 gallon bucket is really useful as is this siphon for water changes,
http://amzn.com/B002LL8BWU
This net is really fine and will catch most tiny debris
http://amzn.com/B008HPOCUE
You will probably find it cheaper in a store. I leave it in front of my powerhead for a hour or two every couple to days to catch debris and waste.
These tweezers help for when you don't want to get your hands wet.
http://amzn.com/B001CWDSYA
But they do start rusting after a lot of
use.
http://amzn.com/B0002E7ITK
This has been the best fish food in my experience but all fish should be fed a varied diet. This is a good staple and should be substituted with brine shrimp, mysis shrimp (frozen) and seaweed.
Not everything here is necessary, I'm just telling you what helped me make the jump to saltwater.
Here are some pics of my tank:

http://imgur.com/p3PP7X7
http://imgur.com/9kUaq1g
http://imgur.com/wtUfCb5
http://imgur.com/yl82GRn

One last thing, in a tank that size, draw a small line where you want you water level to be, when it goes below that due to evaporation, top off water. Test your salinity often in that tank. I use seachem marine buffer to deal with pH issues but chemicals and buffets should be avoided.

Equipment: IMO aquaclears are the best HOB filter. Canister filters are a little more expensive and can be a little more difficult than HOBs at first as far as cleaning and setting up. However, they are superior to HOBs in most ways. Eheim and fluval make great canisters, then sunsun have been hit or miss from what I've heard.

I suggest getting two heaters, one on each side of the tank. That way if one fails your fish won't be fried or frozen.

Substrate: pool filter sand is easy and cheap, it can grow plants fine if you use root tabs. You can try the walstad method, which involves putting down a layer of organic potting soil then capping it with sand. It is cheap and very effective for growing plants if done right. The downfall is that it can be messy and its very very hard to rescape. Other options are plant substrates. Eco complete and flourite are two decent substrates for growing plants, moderately priced too. If you have extra money to spend then you can use some type of aquasoil. ADA, Mr. Aqua, ST are all high quality plant substrates, but again pricey.

Lighting: Finnex makes great LEDs for growing plants, a little expensive, but they are very good. For 20" height, the planted+ or original Fugeray should be fine without CO2 and not promote too much algae.

Plants: For plants, you probably won't be able to carpet dwarf baby tears without a strong LED and pressurized CO2. You can do a dwarf hair grass carpet, but it might go slowly without investing in a good light. aquaswap is a great place to buy plants. Butteredscrimp puts out a monthly sale and can help you assemble a plant package. I can vouch for him as being reliable. Just have to give him a price range, some details about your tank such as lighting and size, and some plants you like!

Decorations: Driftwood is a great way to fill space and make your tank feel a little more natural. Spider wood and manzanita are my favorite. Check your LFS to see if they have any pieces you like first. If not, there are several good places you can get driftwood online. Driftwood will release tannins (won't harm fish) into your tank when placed in water and might take a while to sink depending on the piece. I suggest putting it in while your tank is cycling.

You can also go with rocks/stones. They should be scrubbed under hot water before going into the tank. Some rocks can break down and affect your water chemistry. To test if they will you can do the vinegar test. Take the rock and add a few drops of vinegar or a stronger acid. If it fizzles or bubbles then it should not be placed in the tank because it can raise the pH of the water.

Fish: For shrimp amano shrimp are great, they eat hair algae and scavenge leftovers. They won't breed in freshwater though. Red cherry shrimp come in different grades (all very attractive) and are a relatively easy shrimp to keep, they will breed like crazy if provided an adequate environment The babies will be small and can/will be eaten by most fish.

For snails, nerite snails are regarded as some of the best algae eaters, won't reproduce in freshwater, and they are very cool looking. But female snails will leave unattractive, hard to remove, white eggs everywhere. You need a metal blade to scrape them off. u/gastropoid is your go to for snail info.

For a schooling fish you can go big or small. some of my favorite bigger schooling fish include congo tetras and bosemani rainbowfish. There are lots of other good sized rainbowfish if you decide to go that direction. Some popular small schooling fish include harlequin rasboras, neon tetras, cardinal tetras, and rummy nose tetras. Other tetras and rasboras will work too! Some rasboras are tiny though, maxing out at about 1 inch so those are a little less compatible usually. Barbs are another good schooling fish, but they can be nippy and semi-aggressive. Otocinclus are a schooling fish, but they are algae eaters and can be a little sensitive when brought into a new tank.

Fish I would avoid are common plecos, they get massive. And chinese/siamese algae eaters. They are fantastic algae eaters as juveniles, but they become aggressive when they grow up.

final thoughts: if you're going planted, look into EI dosing and root tabs, it will help plants thrive. You said you have experience with freshwater tanks so I assume you know about the nitrogen cycle and fishless cycling. If you don't there is a site under the helpful links tab at the top of the page. Look through the other links there too! great information. Visit plantedtank for more plant info, inspiration, and guides.

Good luck!

Aside from thanking everyone who replied, I want to take the time to update on whats going on.

After I posted, I was leaning into purchasing a Fluval Spec V to house Fishy. 170). I started looking for other options such as buying another tank, buying at a LFS or commissioning a tank.

A reputable tank maker quoted me US$45.00 to make a 15 Gallon tank, with the following dimension 16.25''x16.25''x13.25'' (LxWxH) made with .88 mm glass or aprox 1/3''.

In turn, I would have to buy a filter, a heater and light (as well as substrate and plants). Here is what Im leaning towards, advice would be very much appreciated, as its my first tank in about 10 years:

Heater: Eheim 25 watt.


Filter: Aquaclear HOB Power Filter 20.



Light: Finnex Stingray 16'.

An acquaintance suggested I buy this filter instead:

Aquaclear Power Head + Aquaclear Powerhead Attachment.

Even suggested I fit my tank with two of those instead of the HOB filter.

Being a noob, I dont really know much about those types of filters.

For plants Im thinking something like this:

Fluval Anubias 12'.

Fluval Lizard Tail.

Substrate: Im looking forward to adding real plants in the future.

Soil - ADA Africana.

Sand - something along that color.

I already own an APC UPS, similar to this one or even the same one (i dont really remember).

Again, any tips or suggestions are welcome.

Do you know what kind of cichlids and catfish you have? There aren't many that are appropriate for a 15 gallon tank as they will grow too large.

An aquaclear 30 would work well for the tank and it's not too expensive. You can use play sand as a substrate, but you have to rinse it really well before you put it in the tank. You can get it from home improvement stores or Walmart for cheap. Good plants would be any low light, hardy plants like anubias, water wisteria, java ferns, anacharis, etc. and they can be bought from petsmart, petco, any other local fish stores, or online.

When you're renovating the tank you can keep them in a large bucket with a bubbler.

1. What are the dimensions of the tank? You can tell the volume from that.
   
2. Styrofoam goes under the tank, not in it. It's also completely unnecessary if you have a rim on the tank.
   
3. There's not really an 'unsafe' amount of rock. Water is also extremely heavy and the tank holds that, so any reasonable amount should be just fine as well.
   
4. The best filter for a beginner on a tank that size is hands down an Aqua Clear 50, in my opinion. It will run quietly as long as you keep the water level nice and full.
   
5. Don't buy fish store brand lights if you want plants. Invest a little bit of money in something from Finnex (planted series) that will last forever and are designed from the ground up to grow aquarium plants.
   
6. Night mode is just low-light blue LEDs most of the time. It's essentially simulated moonlight. I personally do not use any lighting at night. The Finnex Planted 24/7 has a built in, automatic night mode.
   
7. Yes, 8-10 hours is pretty normal. Less light means less algae, and yes your lighting needs will depend on hardscape and plant choices.

Aquaclear 50 is what I use on my 20 gallon, and it works well - you can skip the bullshit cartridges that most manufacturers use, I added some floss padding and purigen to polish the water (clarity) and threw out the charcoal filter that came with it. You also might need to cut the sponge that comes with it in half laterally to fit all of this and still have the bio media submerged, but that's easy.

Aquaclear 50 on Amazon

Filter floss on Amazon

Purigen on Amazon

Your LFS will likely have all of these things as well, so it's up to you if you're in a rush or want to save a few $$$ by using Amazon.

And, lastly, this is just what works for me. You might try a different setup - but many other HOB filters don't allow you to customize the filtration all that much, and are just there to sell you cartridges.

HOB filters are the Gilette of the aquarium hobby.

If you're looking to swap with someone here or buy you could add your zipcode since this is the swap reddit. And you can also ask this type of info on the r/Aquariums reddit.... but since i saw your question, I have a few 5 gal and I like the Cobalt Aquatics 25 watt heaters because you can change the temperature as opposed to a preset, but they are a little expensive (to me at least).

Since I was on a tight budget, I bought the Topfin setup and hated it. The filter stopped working after a month, I returned it and they let me exchange it for an Aqueon Quietflow 10. You can sub in small media like Matrix or I really like ChemiBlue Nano but it removes tannins. If you take the hood off, the light goes with it so you can't see in the tank. I'd skip it and get a glass lid. It didn't come with a heater I don't remember. So, I've also used the Aqueon 50 watt presets, but sort of depends on ambient room temp (mine's on an outside wall, so fine for shrimp, not for fish as much). Amazon, Drs Foster and Smith, and Chewy all have cheaper prices than the big box stores unless you catch a sale. Drs F & S also have the glass lids for the tanks (Marine land for TopFin tanks and VersaTop for Aqueon tanks). This cheap little light is perfect for a 5 gal and bright too, and only $10. Aqueon Quietflow 10 is only $16 on Amazon. I used Petco Sand for $5/bag you can mix with your gravel. And used API root tabs. Great cheap driftwood and I did the research reading the bad comments lol. Perfect for nano tanks.

Welcome to Betta keeping! Get ready to be addicted. No tank is too big IMO, you want your guy to have plenty of room. I would go with 8 gallons if you have room for it.

If you go with 8 gallons, this looks good and seems to be well reviewed. The 50-watt version.

Again, if you decide on 8 gallons, I would go with this. It comes with cartridges that don't need to be changed nearly as often as it says on the box. I generally only change my cartridges when they start to get really scummy; they house bacteria that is beneficial to your tank.

Bettas also like caves, hiding places and plants. A floating bunch of anacharis will eat up ammonia and give your fish a place to rest. Java fern also does well in a low-light environment.

You'll need to change the water once a week, and make sure to add water conditioner each time. This is my favorite brand.

Any other questions, feel free to PM me. Happy fish keeping!

If you consider trying a filter again- I have had great success with this filter, while also using a home-made baffle cut out of a water bottle.

So! I read through both of the care sheets that someone recommended and saw that they do not cover specific equipment. I'll give you a list of items for a split 10 gallon setup that I highly recommend to beginners; 10 gallon tank with hood, 10 gallon tank divider, Eheim Jager 50W fully adjustable/submersible heater, the safest on the market, TWO of these Azoo Mignon 150 (5 gallon capacity) fountain-style [filters] (http://www.amazon.com/Azoo-Mignon-Filter-150-Power/dp/B006KY1MF2) (One for each side of the tank as you'll want to run them on their lowest flow strength in order to avoid disturbing the fish, not to mention that the divider does not support good water flow between the two sides). This hardware setup should cost a bit over $100. I know it may sound pricey at first but it will be well worth it for happy, healthy bettas. Here's my male elephant ear, Beau!

Tank I picked up at my local store 'Aquarium Zen', 5 gallon shallow: http://ultumnaturesystems.com/rimless-glass-tanks/

Filter: Azoo Mignon Filter 150 Power Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006KY1MF2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_W17TDb1JA1CJ3

Light: ONF Flat Nano Plus, The Smart Aquarium LED Light, for 2~7gallon Fish Tank, App Controlled, Colorfull LED, Full Spectrum, 15-Watt, 1300 LM, 7000K, One Year Warranty. (Flat Nano+) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WRJ565N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_I27TDbV9HCN9Q

$30 for a 3 stage canister filter, rated for 70g: http://www.amazon.com/SunSun-HW-302-3-Stage-External-Canister/dp/B00892EN22/ref=sr_1_69?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1371902926&sr=1-69&keywords=canister

Sorry your NatGeo ones keep breaking. :( This is the filter I have, SunSun HW-302

I know it's the "cheaper" brand, but mine has been running since September 2013 and I haven't had any problems with it. It still runs quiet, doesn't leak, and simple to assemble. My only complaint was that the instructions that it came with were not for the model I bought, so I had to find a YouTube video to figure it out because it was my first canister filter, haha

I really love my SunSun It's not an expensive brand name, but it works like a dream!

You can get a SunSun for 50$ USD off amazon.com https://www.amazon.com/SunSun-Hw302-264GPH-Canister-Filter/dp/B00MGX7JXA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468735993&sr=8-2&keywords=sunsun probably the cheapest and most cost efficient in the 50$ range I don't know of anymore filters that are cheaper and good for a 20 long.

From gingercide and my experience...

---

Heaters...


Eheim jaeger:
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=23726

tetra 50watt
hydor theo:http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=11368&t=1&ref=4032&subref=AA&cmpid=PPC-G-4032&gclid=CNWGqee2g80CFclkhgodNxQHdg

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=11368&t=1&ref=4032&subref=AA&cmpid=PPC-G-4032&gclid=CNWGqee2g80CFclkhgodNxQHdg

and cobalt neotherms...

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=25673


---

Filters

(cheap-air)
whisper 3.1
http://www.amazon.com/Whisper--Tank-Filter-3i-aquariums/dp/B000HHQ712/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464667444&sr=8-1&keywords=whisper+3i

deepblue sponge filters
http://www.amazon.com/Deep-Blue-Professional-30-Ammonia-Submersible/dp/B005DGI3TG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464667502&sr=8-1&keywords=deep+blue+sponge+filter

(Moderate)

aquaclear
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=3610

hagen/fluval
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=23459

sunsun hw602 or 603:
http://www.amazon.com/TechnToy-HW-603B-3-Stage-External-Canister/dp/B00CC6SCJQ/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1464667614&sr=8-7&keywords=sunsun

---
Tanks:

My personal preference is to fo with a fluval spec tank (spec iii or V) due to the higher quality materials
and use that filter with a spraybar mod that I can explain. Is It's cheap and easy.

http://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/fluval-spec-iii-aquarium-kit-in-black

http://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/fluval-spec-v-aquarium-kit-in-white

These tanks are high quality, as are the filters. You can also hide the heaters.

Marineland has similar tanks in 3 and five gallon versions.

http://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/fish/fish-aquariums-kits/marineland-portrait-glass-led-aquarium-kit

http://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/fish/fish-aquariums-kits/marineland-silhouette-glass-3-gallon-led-aquarium-kit

You might just want to put plastic craft canvas over the intakes to protect the fins. They seem to keep the fish much happier and healthier. Petco is running a special now on shipping and lower price than in-store.

---

Food... We use omega one, but it can redden whites due to the salmon.

from what I've researched this is the order:

• 1.Atison's betta pro
  
• 2.New Life Spectrum Betta Pellets
  
• 3.Omega One Betta Buffet Pellets (can cause white fish to fade to pink/red due to the salmon content)
  
• 4.NutraFin Max Color Enhancing Betta Flake Food (need to watch this as it's flake (betta tend to not like), and has fish meal as a main ingredient
  
  ---
  
  Substrate
  
  I love the black sand, or eco complete if planting, but watch that you give eco six weeks to stabilize, it can affect the water chems.
  
  Fluval has a good substrate as well, just never see it in store.
  
  ---
  
  
  online shopping
  
  Good stores online are dr foster and Smith, petco surprisingly, aquabid, Big Als and I think aquarium arts. For decorations, make sure you carefully check for sharp edges, I file down everything. Let me know if you need or want more details

Years ago one of the first tanks I had was a 5.5 setup with some ghost shrimp and my Betta. For quite a while figured the filter flow problem was just something I had to live with. Then I spent some time online and took another crack at the tank. The problems you are having can be solved!

Since money is an issue, grab an empty water or soda bottle. Rinse it off very well, cut off the ends, and cut a slit down the side. You can wrap this under the "waterfall" of your filter and around the top outside of the tank. This diverts the water out the sides and will make your fish happier. Some tape might need to be added to the top to keep it from popping off randomly, but otherwise its about as cheap a fix as I can come up with for your filter right now. This photo is not mine, but it does give you something to look at which might make more sense than my description!

The only other solution I have is going with a super cheap canister filter from Amazon. This one is only $32 and would work great on your tank.

If you need to clean the tank before getting a gravel vacuum you could always grab a cheap turkey baster and use it to suck up the crud you can see on the surface.

Last suggestions I have without replacing the filter is to pull out whatever charcoal is in your filter and maybe replace that with a pot scrubber. Then grab a bottle of Tetra Safe Start and dump that into your tank. It will look like a cloudy mess, but this is fine and it will clear up soon. This will jump-start your cycle since you are starting fresh.

Oh! This is the last thing. Make sure to grab a bottle of water conditioner before you do anything else. Do this right now if you haven't already. Get your new buddy some treated water and relax! Later you can use an old milk jug or water jug to keep a gallon of pre-treated water around to top off the tank after evaporation as well as for water changes.

SunSun 304

I love these filters they have proven very reliable for me, I would recommend to not let the tubes hang any lower than they need to be because it'll put stress on the locking mechanism. There are two little plastic ledges of sorts that broke off my last 304, with my new one I removed the slack so now there's no stress on it.

I'd be curious to know what this sub thinks of this filter. Been contemplating it for my 10g betta tank.

Would recommend this one: https://www.amazon.com/Aqua-Clear-Power-Filter-AquaClear/dp/B000260FUM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1536260246&sr=8-2&keywords=aquaclear+filter

It would work good for a 20 gallon tank and it has an adjustable flow switch, so you can mess around with that to find the perfect flow for your axolotl, they are all different and it depends on the size. But it would never hurt to also have a sponge filter in there, but a single sponge filter isn't going to cut it as the only source of cleaning.

I'll just give you my generalize copy/pasta I usually hand out in situations like these so if you wanna read it when you got a chance, then you have it! Also has tips and purchase links for Amazon as well for different axolotl stuffs.


HOW TO CYCLE:

1. Set up tank with clean conditioned water. 2. Add recommended amount of beneficial bacteria per label
   
   
2. Add "waste" to the tank, so a little bit of say fish flakes ( they're cheap and you need a waste source since you DO NOT put a fish or axolotl in a uncycled tank. The flakes are gonna break down into ammonia. The goal with cycling is to get benefical bacteria to build up so they can change (eat) the waste & breaks down the ammonia into nitrite then finally break it down further into nitrate. All these chemicals can hurt axolotl.
   
   
3. Test tank a couple days later with a testing kit ( avoid strips, they will lie to you and give false results) if there is ANY ammonia or nitrite present, you arent cycled. If there is no nitrate present either, you arent cycled.
   
   
4. If you find ammonia or nitrite, take 50% of the water out and add clean treated water. Add more seachem stability ( benefical bacteria) ( add these each time you change water. Even if it's cycled)
   
   
5. Add a pinch more flakes & Continue to do this until your tank is cycled. Meaning you have no ammonia, no nitrite and a presence of 40ppm or less of nitrate.
   
   
   
   Warnings:
   1.If your tank isn't cycled, you are going to chemical burn them with ammonia in the water. And they will suffer. Nitrate ( the final of the chemical process) can also burn the fish/axolotl. This is why we keep this number under 40ppm. If it is higher than 40ppm, change the water 75%.
   
   
6. This beneficial bacteria lives in the filter. If you change your filter, you just ruined your cycle. Don't do this. If it gets nasty/clogged & you have to replace the cartirage, leave the old cartirage in with the new one for a few days so the beneficial bacteria can inhabit the new filter. If you can avoid replacing that, just rinse/gently squeeze out the filter in old tank water when you do clean the tank to keep from murdering the bacteria
   
7. Letting the filter dry out will also kill a cycle.
   
8. 
   
   *NOTE: Most bottles of beneficial bacteria say they cycle a tank in a day. Cycling can take up to a month in some cases but usually just two weeks if you keep on it. This requires constantly monitoring, testing and replacing most of the water in the tank when you get high ammonia/nitrite levels. You need ammonia/nitrite to be 0 and nitrate to be more than 0. Definitely less <40. If all your levels are higher than this, or if nitrate remains 0, your tank isn't cycled.***
   
   
   Summery;
   So basically, cycling builds beneficial bacteria which makes these waste breakdown chemicals go through a cycle of breaking down into a less dangerous form which keeps fish/axolotl from getting sick/dying. ... Most new fish people don't do this. And fish store employees try & tell them just adding something like seachem stability fixes this. It doesn't. An uncycled tank is basically new tank syndrome and it kills animals.
   
   You still are going to need to keep an eye on chemical levels after the cycle..Occasionally different things can cause the cycle to "crash", like changing the filters or a high tempeture, or the filters becoming dry..
   
   Once your tank is cycled, and you have an axolotl, honestly it's not that much work. The cycles the worst part. I feed my adult axolotls once every other day, I change 75% of their water twice a month, and add water to top it off / spot clean occasionally two-three other times a month due to the water I lose due to evaporation.
   
   
   Stuff you'll need:
   
9. Air stone+ airline+ air pump ( cheap ones are at Walmart.
   
10. Seachem stability ( beneficial bacteria)
    
11. Seachem prime ( it's a water conditioner I just prefer seachem)
    
12. A tank, 10 gallon minimum for 1 axolotl. But the bigger the better.
    
13. A filter
    
14. Hides for the axolotl
    
15. A syphon / water vacuum ( to suck out the poo/change water easy. I have a long food grade plastic hose I got from Ace hardware. I syphon and let it drain into the yard
    
16. A bucket
    
17. A Tupperware
    
18. A fan. Literally any fan you can put on top the tank and point at it will work. I have a table fan sitting on top my tank and blowing at the water to help keep it cool. A chiller is best, but they are expensive.
    
19. A tank thermometer ( don't get the thermometer strips, they lie
    
20. A master fresh water test kit.
    
21. Worms or repashy or pellets
    
    
    
    Links:
    
22. Test kit https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000255NCI/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1549784772&sr=8-2&keywords=master+freshwater+test+kit&dpPl=1&dpID=51FQhbpfB0L&ref=plSrch
    
    
    
23. Fan suggestion
    
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001R1RXUG?aaxitk=NqgMhM9.r7.gAHICKezCoA&pd_rd_i=B001R1RXUG&pf_rd_p=0ef604ef-c787-43e9-9404-52a4ff25a95c&hsa_cr_id=8386596470601&sb-ci-n=asinImage&sb-ci-v=https%3A%2F%2Fimages-na.ssl-images-amazon.com%2Fimages%2FI%2F71pMktGGyRL.jpg&sb-ci-a=B001R1RXUG
    
    
24. Tank thermometer
    
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002AQITK/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1549784880&sr=8-5&keywords=tank+thermometer
    
    4.
    Air pump + line + stone.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B073DWVX5P/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1549784937&sr=8-11&keywords=air+pump+for+aquarium&dpPl=1&dpID=41%2BcSpzfDgL&ref=plSrch
    
    
25. Filter ( basic the tank you have probably already has one)
    
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000260FUM/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1549785038&sr=8-2&keywords=hob+filter&dpPl=1&dpID=41Rr1kpTVOL&ref=plSrch
    
    
26. Shower poof ( hang these so they slow the flow of water coming out of filter. Axolotls don't like a lot of heavy water flow. Get these at the dollar store and rinse them before going in tank. You don't have to get these online. I'm just showing you)
    
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01F88BMC8/ref=mp_s_a_1_3_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1549785094&sr=8-3&keywords=shower+pouf
    
    
27. Seachem stuff
    Prime; https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00025694O/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549785181&sr=8-1&keywords=seachem+prime&dpPl=1&dpID=41Q0rRc8NML&ref=plSrch
    
    Stablity:
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002APIIW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549785210&sr=8-1&keywords=seachem+stability
    
    
28. Food
    Pellets:
    
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0787T25J1/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549785278&sr=8-1&keywords=axolotl+pellets
    
    Repashy:
    https://www.chewy.com/repashy-superfoods-meat-pie-gel/dp/166289?utm_source=google-product&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=f&utm_content=Repashy%20Superfoods&utm_term=&gclid=Cj0KCQiAkfriBRD1ARIsAASKsQLQAXpk3WwGiCwRMr6OQmbfUXPIZutYnADrujltXxW1PPSVgYpPduEaAmAaEALw_wcB
    
    Ice cube trays for repashy( frozen is better. It's a jello. It will really trash your tank. So frozen is better):
    
    https://www.amazon.com/niceCube-Mini-Ice-Cube-Trays/dp/B01L7ZFBXW/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1549785496&sr=8-2-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=mini+ice+cube+tray&psc=1
    
    
    
29. Hides. Here's a good example..I soemthing similar. Just go to the reptile section at your pet store. Get one that's not rough but smooth. Plastics a good option. Just rinse it well before you put it in tank
    https://www.arcatapet.com/m/item.cfm?cat=22600&source=GA-PLA00522600&fullsite=0
    
    
30. Water vacuum. This is what I have + I have a big long hose for big water changes. I use this to spot clean poo and "vacuum' it into a 10 gallon bucket
    
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B011DDJZ9Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549785739&sr=8-1&keywords=aquarium+vacuum
    
    Feeding tongs: They're actually tweezers for planting a planted fish tank. These can grip worms very well.. The Amazon ones that are silver suck and will make your life hell. Don't waste your money on ones on amazon unless you can find these on Amazon.
    
    https://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/product/fish/feeding-accessories/fluval-straight-forceps

Congrats on the first tank! My most successful tank was a 20 long, and honestly I think about going back very often.

If you're looking for a simple entry-level start to filtration, I would go with a simple hang-on-back filter (or HOB for short as they're called in the reefing community). You could absolutely add a small refugium/sump as mentioned here as well, which would increase your water volume and filtration ability, allowing you to get one or two more fish in the system, however as I'm sure you know it will be a bit more expensive and complicated to set up, with a few extra risks regarding any blockages in pumps.

If you're looking into the HOB option, I would recommend my personal favorite, the AquaClear filter (you can get it here https://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-50-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FUM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486060633&sr=8-1&keywords=aquaclear+filter). I fill mine with the provided media (I replace the bag of carbon monthly with my own bags that I fill which are a bit cheaper), along with a small filter bag of phoslock to remove some of the phosphates on the top. Overall it's a relatively easy setup, and you can clean the sponge filter every week or two when you do water changes to get rid of any of the detritus that builds up.

Good luck with the tank!

I would highly suggest you stay away from the integrated kit approach and buy components. As someone currently trying to overcome an Eclipse system, the burdens far outweigh the benefit of integrations and ease. There's more than enough on getting adequate components here, and I would be happy to help you out with the decision, as would others.

Seeing as how you (thankfully) seem to like to take your time and do this right, I offer you some suggestions:

• Whatever tank you want. They're not going to have the greatest selection at Petsmart, but if you find something you like, get it. There's other places online that will ship the tank, but this is probably your best bet to get locally. Though the LFS isn't stocked very well, they might have a number of respectable tanks. Make this decision count-- you will be stuck with it for a long long time, and the ability for your tank to grow with your tools/abilities is crucial.
  
  
• Just pony up the money and get an Eheim Classic. For a 20G, you'll probably want to get this one. If you're getting anything larger than a desktop tank (and, BTW, that's a pretty good one), you'll need a real filter. This may seem excessive, but the dainty POS filters that come in kits ALWAYS wind up biting you in the ass. There are people here that are still using the same Eheim Classic that they purchased 15 years ago. It's a standard for a reason-- it's effective and reliable. Pay for it once and you'll never have to buy another unless you really move up in size. If you really don't want to go that expensive, the best bet is to stick with an Aquaclear filter. For the price, these things do a bang-up job!
  
  
• Just don't skimp on a heater. This will do you well, and it's not too expensive. You don't want your fish either roasting to death or accidentally freezing in the middle of winter. Hagen is a good brand to go to here.
  
  
• LED lights these days are great, and have hit a point where the ROI is seen far earlier than previously, and I'm talking about a year. When you get fluorescent tube fixtures, you use more power and have to replace the lights at least every year, and some replace them every 6mo. It depends on how much light you need, but again, I feel you need to recognize that you will grow with this tank, and buying a lighting system now that is cheaper but unable to grow plants will wind up costing you way more in the long run than just getting an LED fixture for 60% more that will last you years and require very little money after the initial purchase. For a first-time tank, I'd suggest a Marineland Singlebright if you really never envision yourself growing plants (which is half the fun in a tank these days), or a Marineland Doublebright if you'd like to grow plants and want an easy, cheaper option now. Know that those two fixtures are the lower end of the LED lighting bars, and you would do well with something like an Ecoxotic Stunner, where you can start with a fixture or two and then add on to the circuit later when you want more light for more plants. Also note the size of all of these fixtures have to be in line with the size of your tank-- there's no universal size.
  
  
• Note, also, that if your LFS sucks in the stock department, and Petco irks you as much as a lot of people here, there's many places where you can order fish and plants online. I haven't heard any horror stories with the big guys, so maybe check them out. Unfortunately, my LFS's are great, so I've never had to resort to these means. I've heard good things about aquabid, and really, you should join plantedtank.net and see what you can find either locally or on the buy/sell/trade forum. Also, joining a local aquatic org can open you up to a ton of CHEAP possibilities.
  
  Good luck. There's lot to research and plan, as well as to spend on, but getting a good setup is so rewarding and relaxing, that it pays back in spades.

I guess it all depends on what you'll be stocking. There is no such thing as over filtering but at the same time you don't want your filter to be so over sized that its going to be blowing your plants and fish around. I would suggest going with an aquaclear 50. Its rated for tanks from 20-50 gallons. Just a tad more expensive on amazon that the aquaclear 30 you linked above.

https://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-50-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FUM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1506557271&sr=8-3&keywords=aquaclear+filter

I have the predecessor to this filter on a 55 gallon with African clawed frogs and a goldfish it works really well. Since you have a slightly larger tank it might be a good idea to add either another canister or an aquaclear HOB. Personally I would add an aquaclear 70 or 110

Aquaclear filter! You can adjust the flow and it comes with a filter sponge and biomedia so you don't have to get anything else.

Edit: here it is

Honestly I wouldn't bother with a kit. They are usually not that great.

Get a 5 or 10 gallon tank from wherever, walmart, petco, etc. 5-10 gallon tanks don't get much better unless you want to go with a high dollar tank with built in filters etc. You do want a hood. A clear glass hood is best as you can grow plants if you want later. If it fits your budget and you have room, a 20 Long is an amazing assed tank. Petco/Petsmart sells them for $34.

Next, get an Aquaclear 20 . They are perfect for a 5-20 gallon tank and won't be too much for your betta. you can adjust the flow rate so it will work. Aquaclear is the best I've used as it's dead silent and most importantly uses real bio media. You don't need to buy stupid expensive disposable filters. Disposable filters are horrible as you throw away most of your beneficial bacteria when you change cartridges. Aquaclear has a rinsable sponge which should be able to be used for a decade.

You'll need a heater. Get one that matches the size of tank.

I highly recommend doing a planted tank. It adds a lot to the tank and your fish will like the plants. I suggest doing a dirt capped tank. Look at this. Don't worry about "mineralizing" if you hear people talk about this as it's pointless IMO. If you do this method, be sure to get some frogbit or water spangles (check /r/AquaSwap ) to keep water parameters in effect. Frogbit eats extra nutrients, without this algae can be a problem. I capped my dirt with black diamond blasting sand (available at Tractor Supply), but pool filter sand (well rinsed) works great too. A Walstad type tank makes plants thrive, and the soil releases a little bit of tannins which bettas love. The tannins aren't extreme, you'll not notice them as far as water clarity goes.

EDIT: Thought I'd add, the next tank I do will be a HMF (Hamburg Mattenfilter). They are very elegant in their simplicity and not even possible to harm a fish with. You can hide heaters in the filter chamber, a corner HMF basically disappears, plus I'll grow plants in front of it so it will be practically invisible.

Well, the first thing we'll need to know is how much space do you have? Are you looking to fill an empty space on your night stand or are you looking to have a separate aquarium stand?

Next, we need to look at what your intent is. Are you looking to keep a few shrimp or are you trying to breed them? The breeding will happen whether you want it to or not, and without fish in there to eat all your baby shrimp you'll have a large population fairly quickly.

Once we've determined these things we can look at a few other things that might affect some minor aspects of your setup but for the sake of time we'll assume you're starting with a 10 gallon (which is a bit on the small side for a low maintenance aquarium) with an [Aquaclear 20] (http://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-20-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FVG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457001271&sr=8-1&keywords=aquaclear+20) and you're doing a shrimp-only, planted tank.

We'll begin with plants: Live plants are better for shrimp and generally look better! [Here] (http://www.theshrimpfarm.com/articles/freshwater-aquarium-plants.php) are some good plants for shrimp tanks. Most of these can easily be found at any pet store.

Substrate is highly dependent on what you personally prefer. Some, like me, prefer [mineralized topsoil] (http://visual.ly/how-mineralized-soil-substrate) with a sand or gravel top layer. This is so that you don't have to dose your rooted plants with fertilizer but they'll keep their bright colors and good growth rate. Others simply put down the sand or gravel of their choice and put root tablets into the substrate so that the rooted plants get their nutrients. The disadvantage of this is that you have to replace the tablets every so often and still sometimes end up needing to fertilize.

For conditioner, the only thing you will likely need is [dechlorinator] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D5WIP4S/ref=twister_B00TQZ76JS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1). This simply takes the chlorine out of tap water so that it won't hurt your shrimp.

The [API Freshwater Master test kit] (http://www.guppysaquariumproducts.com.au/monitoring-control/test-kits/freshwater-master-test-kit.html) is the most widely used kit on Reddit from what I've seen.

You shouldn't need to add any minerals, but your water hardness should be slightly acidic for the best results in terms of color and health.

You can find these links in the sidebar as well, but [this] (http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/Tropical_Fish-A_Beginners_Guide.pdf) is a beginner's guide to tropical fish keeping, [Aqadvisor] (http://aqadvisor.com/) is a website that can calculate how fully stocked your tank is based on the size of your tank and filtering capabilities, and [here] (http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_Lighting.html) is a guide to understanding lighting.

Finally, [this] (http://aquariuminfo.org/rcs.html) is a helpful guide on red cherry shrimp overall. You NEED to wait for your tank to be [fully cycled] (http://www.fishkeeping.co.uk/articles_51/fishless-cycling-article.htm) to add shrimp, but not to add any plants which means you can go ahead and plant any plants you want while it's cycling and they can get established while you wait. If you go with the tank size and filter I used as the example, you will easily be able to house 50+ shrimp according to Aqadvisor. For your plants, I recommend going low-tech, which means using plants that don't require a lot of lighting and not using any CO2.

Well you said a 10 gallon right? I recommend you get this filter aqua clear 20 get a bottle ofStability and pour it for 8 days reading the directions in your water and on your filter media (the bead looking ones) not the ones in the black bag. Oh and this has two settings high and low keep it on low and make a water bottle baffle If your looking for a good heater that keeps your tank at 80 this is your heater

The Aquaclear 20 is probably the best HOB for that sized tank that I've ever found. I clean it about once a month, but I never change the sponge or bio media, just rinse them out in tank water during water changes. I also have an Aquaclear 70 (same filter but bigger) on a 40 gallon thats ~15 years old and still going strong.

As far as equipment goes, get an AquaClear 20 (or 30) filter, an Aqueon (or other reliable brand, I've used Hydor with good luck) ADJUSTABLE heater. A thermometer. The lights you get depends on what you plan on doing with your tank. You're also going to need a water testing kit, a dechlorinator (most people will recommend Seachem Prime).

Is this going to be your first aquarium?

It depends on you personal preferences;

• sponge filters (like this one powered by an airpump.
  
  
• HOB filters like this one
  
  
• or and internal filters with a spray bar (I use this one, with a different sponge).
  
  I really like sponge filters and internal filters since they fit in nearly every tank. Sponge filters are cheap and really gentle, but they do make a bit of noise. Internal filters have more flow, but are (in my experience) very silent. You can easily baffle them by placing some sponge over the spray bar.

Hmm odd that the water fizzed up. Did you rinse out the tank and rinse off the carbon and decorations before putting them in? The fact that you can smell chlorine is probably a good indicator you are best of to switch to a different water conditioner. (I like Seachem Prime.) Betta's like a low flow filter so just keep an eye on the filter or even switch to a sponge filter, or filter with a sponge over the intake, etc. Remeber to test your tap water too! I will link some products I have used or similar to those I have used in the past and had success with. (It may be a good idea to compare prices at your LFS store to Amazon, as I know my local Petsmart/Petco charges a fortune for a lot of aquarium items without much selection.)

API Freshwater Test Kit (Amazon wow $19.99 right now!) or at your LFS -Don't buy the test strips.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000255NCI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

SeaChem Prime ($4-$13 depending on size from Amazon or at your LFS. I swear by Prime.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002568S6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

A thermometer is a good idea to make sure your heater does not create a major issue. I do not use this exact one but figured I would add it to the list with a link ($2)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002AQITK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Here I will just attach a link for a sponge filter I use in a 10 gallon (~$12). You will need some airline hosing and an air pump (tetra air pump works) if you get it, though I think it may be a little big for a 4 gallon. Also, an aquaclear is by far my favorite HOB filter if you go that route. Hopefully, your filter will workout!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXRDZPO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A316L92SV4DH0Y&psc=1
Tetra Air pump (~$7)
https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-77851-Whisper-Pump-10-Gallon/dp/B0009YJ4N6/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1506349229&sr=1-1&keywords=tetra%2Bair%2Bpump&th=1
Aquaclear 20 (110V ~$25): This may be a little big for your 4 gallon, not sure as I have the Aquaclear 50 on my 30 gallon but I will add it along just in case.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000260FVG/ref=twister_B00MO35VD2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Airline Tubing (a few dollars, great to have)

Household Ammonia without surfactant (to do your fishless cycle) see link http://www.fishkeeping.co.uk/articles_51/fishless-cycling-article.htm

If you decide to go with silk aquarium plants, they have few fun options online. I would also suggest really plants as they will help reduce nitrates in the future. Some good low-tech plants would be anubias, or java fern (and some others). These can be tied to a rock or driftwood as don't need to be placed in the gravel/sand/soil itself. (A small clip-on LED for an aquarium should work
if you go this route.)
https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/wiki/plantsetc

I would provide food options, but r/bettafish has done a great job!
https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/wiki/food

Here are a few they have mentioned:

Ocean Nutrition Atison's Betta Food (~12)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/huc/view.html?ie=UTF8&newItems=C38WET63RPACA8%2C1

New Life Spectrum Betta Formula (~$10)
https://www.amazon.com/New-Life-Spectrum-Formula-Semi-Float/dp/B0038JTL1Y/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1506350883&sr=1-1&keywords=New+Life+Spectrum+Betta+Pellets

Hikari Betta Bio-Gold (~$13)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013EXTU7S/ref=twister_B00ZJZMXIS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

You should be able to find frozen daphnia, and frozen brine shrimp at Petco/Petsmart, and live brine shrimp at your LFS.

Will add on later! Happy cycling and keep us posted!

I'll just link the post I made in your other thread.

Get rid of the red-tailed shark rainbow shark, it gets too big for your 10 gallon, and it might kill your other fish when it gets bigger. Otherwise, your tank is fine after those deaths, and you could probably add another neon tetra and ~3 pygmy corydoras if you can find them IF you upgrade your filter.

If I were you, I would replace that filter since it takes up so much space in your tank. Get an AquaClear 20, it will last you forever, and you'll never need to replace the media. Rinse off the biomax in some tank water (water you're removing during a water change OR dechlorinated tap water) and do the same with the including sponge every few weeks.

They're $24.55 on Amazon right now, and you will never need to replace the media. Keep the old filter running for a few days besides the old filter until the new filter has some bacteria growth, and remove the old one.

You do water changes right? In your other thread you said your nitrates were high. When was the last time you did a water change?

edit: Looked at the picture, that is indeed a rainbow shark, still not a good fit for the tank.

Best advice is to take your time and buy what will make you happy. You'll only spend more money in the long run if you compromise now. Luckily, not everything needs bought at once. Tank, filter, and heater are necessary purchases now. Lighting and decor can be figured out more slowly.

I can recommend what I'd get in your position.

If you're going to buy a kit, this is a good one. Personally, I like this heater, but they do sell a cheaper version. So, about $100 for the tank, heater, filter, and light.

If you want to buy the parts separately, you can get a 10 gallon tank for $10-$15 or cheaper checking craigslist. You'll also need some kind of lid to cover the tank. You can buy glass ones or some people get a piece of glass or acrylic cut to cover it. Tank + lid: $25-$30

Aquaclears are my favorite filters for my tanks, but you could use a sponge filter. You'd need an air pump for the sponge one. So, $20-$25 for a filter.

Real plants are nice, but not necessary. You can do fine with fake ones, just make sure the edges aren't sharp. If you do want plants, the Spec V light should be plenty for low light plants. If you want to buy the light separately, this or this would be fine. I've had a Nicrew one on my larger tank before and it's enough for low light plants.

Or you could just get a clamp on lamp from the store and a daylight bulb. That whole set up would be about $10.

Until you get a new set up, I would recommend water changes at least once a day, if not more. I would also strongly recommend buying a water testing kit.

This is the one i use. I like it because I can alter the flow. Just make sure to cover the intake. I just wrapped some filter floss around it with some thread. Although, they do make specialized covers for it.

A walmart tank should be fine. The key thing to do (if the store will let you) is to ask if you can fill it with water first to make sure there are no leaks. For a betta, you really don't need a Fluval or anything. Those are for once you get addicted to the hobby. :) Bettas do need space, but they don't necessarily need anything super fancy.

And especially with bettas, the fish you purchase at the store may not be in the healthiest of conditions when you get them. Did you pick him out of a bunch of bettas sitting in one-cup containers? That's how most stores deal with bettas because they're capable of surviving that way. But it means that you'll often end up with a fish that's already sickly when you got him.

The thing to bear in mind when you're starting the aquarium hobby is that it really is a lifetime of learning. Aquariums can have a steep learning curve that's made more difficult because you're dealing with living creatures. Try not to get frustrated or downhearted - it really is something we've all gone through as we're learning how to care for them.

You're taking the right steps in asking questions (bear in mind that it's difficult to diagnose without seeing the fish closeup so we're not able to easily diagnose your fish; all we can really do is recommend ways to fix your tank setup). And it just sucks that the treatment involves spending money. As far as filters go, I've had success with the Tetra Whisper. It worked fine for me - I ended up upgrading, but that was only because I wanted a bigger tank.

Let's go over a bit of everything.

5 gallon tank is awesome, 10 gallon tank is a tiny bit more awesome, but not necessary at all.

Heater that can keep the tank around 76-78

Filter : https://www.amazon.com/Whisper-Tank-Filter-10i-BioScrubber/dp/B0002DHYF4
I figured I would link the filter I use, and it works perfectly for my bettas

Live plants are awesome, silk plants acceptable.

I usually recommend live plants, such as swords, they help with nitrites and bettas love swimming and hiding in plants, the more jungle the happier the betta in my experience.

For food, I recommend Betta Pellets / Blood Worms as a treat meal every once and a while.

Lighting can vary based on if you go with live plants or not.

For your substrate / gravel almost anything is ok. I have had bettas with Sand, Gravel, and now I am using Seachem Fluorite so my plants go from meh to holy hell that's a jungle.

For water changes I treat my water with a bit of prime and stress coat, I also dose my tank with Seachem Fluorish to feed my plants and have them be healthy and happy.

And a quality of life thing, as I have multiple tanks, a Python Cleaning system for water changes has turned my awkward filling and carrying of buckets into a simple hook up to a sink and off I go.

If you have any questions, just comment here, or head over to /r/bettafish there is plenty of information in the sidebar alone.

We actually used to have problems with the nitrate level a few months ago but we got a better filter and haven't had a problem since. Between that and consistent water changes around every week we haven't had a single problem with water levels. This is the filter we use Marineland Penguin Power Filter, 50 to 70-Gallon, 350 GPH https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009IMDQM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jqNfAbA43PT8Z

This Beauty, I had done ALOT of research to find a solid little filter that i could keep the water circulated in and just keep larger debris out of the water. I would read up on some of the modifications needed to throttle the flow (basically add more sponges to the baskets or bio media) I love it. for this jar its perfect. I'm Actually thinking about ordering a couple more to have on hand in case i want to have couple jars going at once. EDIT: Forgot to mention went with this one because its fully submersible and doesn't rely on an Air pump. I can keep the lid closed on my jar.

I use this DIY diffuser, I have found that it is extremely efficient, more so than my old ceramic diffuser. It also only costs about 16 dollars.This forum post describes the process of making one. You can find the filter on amazon here

It's a 115V Whisper 3i filter. The air pump connects to the bottom of the intake, so the bubbles push the water up through the filter chamber.

Edit: found the link. http://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Whisper-In-Tank-Filter-3-Gallon/dp/B000HHQ712

The tetra whisper filters for small tanks are powered by an air pump. You could run one of those.

You could also do a sponge filter or something like this

You could also look into a USB powered pump and use it to rig up some sort of filtration system.

Well it seems like you're in a situation that is (unfortunately) one of the most common: The formal term is I'm-doing-everything-right-and-none-of-the-symptoms-are-very-diagnostic-wtf-is-going-on.

TL;DR - Get a UV filter, run it for a week before the new fish arrive, once you start to see babies wait two weeks and then remove the UV filter.


Long answer:

The cory death isn't too helpful (in terms of providing information) simply because about 10% of fish from the pet store seem to die no matter what anyone does. In fact, your survival rates are pretty good a year after the purchase date. You tank set-up looks about as good as it could possibly be, so I can't imagine the environment is unusually stressful either. I forgot to ask how big the tank was, but I'm going to guess its 20-30 gallons based on the filter you're running. This should be fine for guppies and their tankmates.

Although there's no clear diagnostic information about what happened, I've found that almost anything disease related is mitigated with a UV filter. My suggestion is to try using one of these to soften the process of adaptation to your tanks. I use these, but since you have an external filter, you might prefer to use an in-line UV filter like this one. I've found that the first one works good enough for up to 30 gallons (although even 30 gallons is pushing it a little), but I haven't tried the second one and have no idea how well it works. I just randomly found it on Amazon and only link it as an example. You'd be wise to do some homework about whatever model you decide to get because they aren't cheap. (Protip: Remember to use fakespot before you buy anything on Amazon! Aquarium stuff is especially prone to lies and general fuckery from manufacturers).

The PROS:

• First, they don't cause any harm to plants, critters, or your biological filter.
  
  
• Second, they reduce the viral/bacterial/parasitic load on the tank as a whole. This is huge, because it lowers the threshold of immune system strength needed for critters to overcome pathogens. In other words, it gives weaker fish a better chance of adapting to the new pathogens by reducing their overall exposure to them in the water column. Furthermore, this increases the probability that your new guppies have a chance to spit out some babies. Babies are important because native-born fish have the highest chance of adapting to the unique ecology of your tanks. Its important to point out that UV filters don't (usually) totally eliminate pathogens, so all of the critters in the tank are still being exposed to the same pathogens, but the levels are low enough that their immune systems have a chance to mount a defense against those pathogens without the same risk of those pathogens taking hold.
  
  The CONS:
  
  
• Because they don't eliminate all of anything, they aren't good solutions when you need complete eradication. So, if you had ich in your tank (which must be completely eradicated), a UV filter will only work for as long as you use it. The moment you stop using it, ich will come back with a vengeance and kill everything if you don't intervene. So, they're best when you're fighting bacterial or viral diseases that are more opportunistic (i.e., they only threaten weak critters) versus pathogens that are invariably fatal, like ich.
  
  
• The other downside is that the bulbs burn out quickly (like, 3 to 12 months), so they can be expensive to maintain if you use them all the time. (NOTE: Some people choose to run them 100% of the time, but its definitely not necessary if your main concern is just getting your critters through the adaptation stage. If you're someone who keeps expensive/delicate/exotic critters like stingrays or arowana, perhaps its cheaper to run them constantly. That said, that's a whole different kind of fishkeeping that I don't know anything about. For peasants like myself, UV filters get the most value as training wheels for immune systems.)
  
  Here's what I did when I was in a similar situation. Perhaps you can have the same luck I did: A while back I ordered some endlers, introduced them to my community tank, and they all promptly died. My assumption was that the pathogens in my tanks kicked their asses, partly because they were ordered from a completely different area in the US. I decided to try again, but this time I was obviously very concerned about how well they would adapt to the pathogens endemic to my current tanks. So I started running a UV filter about a week before I planned to add them to my community tanks (A week seemed like enough time to drive the pathogen load down). I added the endlers to the tanks and kept the UV filters running until about two weeks after I saw the first endler babies born in each tank, so about a month after adding the endlers. Then, I removed the filters and crossed my fingers. Fortunately, the spike in pathogen load that surely came after removing the UV filters didn't seem to affect the endlers at all. As far as I'm able to tell, the UV filters gave them a chance to form a robust immune response. That was about a year ago and today my biggest problem is the booming population, but that's another post ;).
  
  EDIT; I should add that I would try a UV filter first partly because you'll need to start considering more drastic stuff at some point (e.g., chemicals) and since there's no easy way to know exactly what's killing the guppies, you'll probably need to use trial-and-error. As many of us learned long ago, the trial-and-error approach to treating disease in the aquarium is almost always a complete shit-show. Its expensive and in many cases you just end up harming the healthy inhabitants without actually solving your problem.

I struggled with green water after a tea tree treatment for cotton mouth. I had that damn green water for more than 6 weeks to the point where I couldn’t even see the fish anymore.

I bought a UV water sterilizer and it took a little more than a week but it made my water crystal clear again.

Before and after

https://imgur.com/a/qePCiq2


This is the one I bought

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001KP9B2W/ref=sxts_sxwds-bia_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525277655&sr=1

They are separate things, at my knowledge:

Low profile filter:

• Marina Slim S10 hang on the back filter. Pros: smallest clearance between wall and tank, self priming after power outage, DIY custom filter media is shown on YouTube. Cons: could vibrate (needs adjusting its position or adding rubber pads), hand to clean bottom of the filter.
  
  
• Canister filter, low flow kind. Pros: only input and output tubes are visible, if they are glass "lily pipes", even better. Cons: more expensive, cheaper kinds have to be next to the tank, not below it; some are hard to open for a cleaning and close and prime (start water running) after closing. Read reviews for each brand.
  
  
• Matten filter looks like thick sponge insert in the tank, at the short end or in the corner. Pros: low maintenance. Cons: more expensive than common filters, could be not suitable for your setup, not readily available, and not a filter, strictly speaking, see the link above.
  
  Small:
  
  
• Azoo Mignon 150 or 360, the same is sold under other names: Deep Blue Biomax nano filter, Aquarium Masters mini filter. Pros: small. Cons: small, not much place for filter media, not self priming, hard to clean intake tube.
  
  Low cost:
  
  
• T-shaped sponge filter, fed by air pump. Pros: good as mechanical and bimedia, fish and shrimp are safe. Cons: air pump is louder than water pumps, you have to squeeze it well in old tank water during cleaning.
  
  
• Double corner filter, hidden behind plant or decoration. Pros: more space for any media. Cons: air pump, and the filter is noticeable.
  
  Other:
  
  
• Aqua Clear HOBs are polular.
  
  
• Tidal HOBs are self priming.
  
  Sand as a substrate:
  
  Not play sand (too dirty and too fine), not too fine, not too thick layer, should be inert.
  

Do you have a walmart by you? They sell empty 10 gallon tanks for 14.99 regularly priced. You could order from the website to store, too.
https://www.walmart.com/browse/pets/10-gallon-aquariums/5440_202074_8218041

I like these cheap filters I got off of Amazon that have an adjustable flow. They're 13.99 each.
https://www.amazon.com/Marina-A285-S10-Power-Filter/dp/B0032G8TPW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522288540&sr=8-1&keywords=marina+s10+filter

Then you'd only need one more heater, and if you keep the water level low enough in the 10 gallons you shouldn't have any issue with jumping until you can get hoods and lights, and even if you kept the water level really low it'd be way better than what they have now.

Bleu has been happily living on my desk in my home office for about 2 weeks, the tank has been setup for about a month. He's currently the only inhabitant and I will likely be adding a few striped khuli loaches or some shrimp in the near future I haven't decied which direction to go yet. I also am trying to track down some floating plants but haven't had any luck at my LFS or Petsmart, I might check Petco in a larger city this weekend that's about an hour away or some LFS in that area.



Equipment:

10 Gallon tank from Petco $1/gallon sale

Aqueon 06105 Pro Heaters Submersible Aquarium Heater, 50-Watt

Marina Stainless Steel Thermometer

Perfecto Manufacturing APF33200 Glass Canopy Aquarium, 20-Inch

Marineland Single Bright LED Lighting System 18-24-Inch

Quantity 2 Marina S10 Power Filter

Penn Plax Hide-Away Stackable Stone Aquarium Ornament

Natural sand substrate

1 Java Fern

1 Wisteria (I think...)

I'm going to move the Java Fern today I read last night you aren't supposed to bury the Rhizome so I need to get it attached to a rock or piece of drift wood. I think a decent size piece of drift wood would help the barren look as well on the right until I can get some additional plants. The tank itself has been doing great the filters are very low current which is perfect for Bleu. I've been using the API freshwater master test kit to keep an eye on things and doing about a 25% water change every two weeks.

• edit: I'm using some filter floss and ceramic in one of the S10 filters with some filter sponge and the original filters in the other plus some filter floss in the output

I did this and I was scared to death I was going to ruin the tank, but the project went well and I'm really happy with the results.

Pic of tank now: https://imgur.com/DBmerHY - Filter and Light I used.

I'm having good luck so far with DYI using yeast and jello for my 10gal. But If you're looking for something a little bigger you could start with this kit. It has an adapter to mini CO2 cartridges that you can buy at in a number of places--like at Dicks Sporting Goods with airsoft and paintball equipment, or at kitchen appliance stores with seltzer makers.

If you want bigger than that try to find somewhere nearby that sells beer brewing kits, as they'll have a range of tank sizes for home-brewed kegs, as well as regulator valves for them.

*just saw your comment about the Fluval minis, so just disregard that.

Overnight CO2 bag.

Aphids breath oxygen (O2) and with suffocate in carbon-dioxide (CO2). Plants however, are the opposite and will not be harmed.

• Put your plants and one of these in a small container like a bin you can seal or even a fish tank.
  
• Make sure it's airtight bar one small hole at the top.
  
• Open the valve on the CO2 so it slowly fills the container. The release speed should almost be able to blow out a lighter but not quite. CO2 is heaver than O2 so the oxygen will be pushed out the top and the carbon-dioxide will fill the container from the bottom up so point the airflow sideways.
  
• When the CO2 canister is empty, plug vent hole and go to bed.
  
• Pack up in the morning as everything but the plants should be dead.
  
  This has never failed for me with other plants.

I may have the fluval version sitting around. If you would pay shipping I don't mind sending it.

Fluval Mini Pressurized 20g-CO2 Kit - 0.7 ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049RL3H4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Qu8RBbVNPRQVD

This filter is slightly nicer and cheaper at $16. It's great for bettas because it has an adjustable flow and it's rated for up to 30 gallons. You can also adjust the length of the intake which makes it suitable for smaller tanks. Lots of room on the inside for bio-media too.

Yea, I recently through a sunsun 302 on my 20 long, because why not they are only $40. link for OP This seller has 20 and if you buy a couple he may give to a deal on shipping.

Sunsun HW-302 Theyre amazing

This should do nicely:

https://www.amazon.com/SunSun-HW-302-3-Stage-External-Canister/dp/B00892EN22

If you don't want to go the canister filter method (which I highly recommend) I would go with an aquaclear. They're much better than these, and you can put whatever media you want in there so it's much more versatile than these. I had the penguin 350 and it's ok, but an aquaclear 110 would be your best bet. It's more expensive than these but far far far far better.

http://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-110-Aquarium-Power-Filter/dp/B000260FV6

However, like I said, canister is the way to go. I use one of these on my tank and it's amazing. I used to use ehiems, but these are much cheaper and work just as well http://www.amazon.com/SunSun-HW-302-3-Stage-External-Canister/dp/B00892EN22/ref=sr_1_3?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1426534978&sr=1-3&keywords=sunsun+canister+filter

Highly recommend the SunSun HW-302. Mine has run dry for hours multiple times because of power outages, etc., and it still runs great. I bought a second one because I thought my first one finally died but then it came back to life.

From Amazon

I would suggest the Aqueon, or better yet get an AquaClear. Actually, for a 75 I would suggest getting a SunSun 304B canister. You'll thank me later.

But yeah, for a 75, you're looking at 650+ pounds. More with rocks and substrate. So you're going to need a heavy duty stand that distributes the weight evenly across the floor- i.e. not on 4 legs.

If you dont give a shit about how it looks, just a simple wall of cinder blocks with some joined 2x4s on top would work and be cheap. If you do care, you're gonna want to not skimp on your stand. Order a high quality stand from Petco, Petsmart, or another online retailer.

You can have the best fish tank in the world but if you put it on a wonky stand, you might as well just spill the tank over yourself and get it over with.

Yah I wouldn't waste money on that filter turtles are messy and you want to have room for a lot of bio media. That filter didn't have its GPH listed but I am going to guess it isn't very much. I usualy aim for my GPH to be about 10X the size of my aquarium, so 40 gallons = 400GHP (but more is better). Check out sunsun canister filters.

http://www.amazon.com/SunSun-HW-304B-External-Canister-Sterilizer/dp/B008986EQO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422547342&sr=8-1&keywords=sun+sun+canister+filter&pebp=1422547397598&peasin=B008986EQO

$70 and you will have 525 GPH and plenty of room for Bio media. I would also suggest going to Walmart or a craft store and buying a big roll of 100% polyester pillow stuffing (no additives or mold resistance). It is the exact same material as you would buy for a filter pad at the pet store but for $5 u can get a giant roll that will last months. Add your choice of bio media and a heater and it will probably be around the $100 mark.

You could also do a community. Go as big as possible. Two canisters, each rated for 75 gallon would be more than enough for a 125. Two of these is decent for a 200. Ahttp://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008986EQO?cache=06ba174150f5f99c861821c037a5d14d&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1408501463&sr=8-2#ref=mp_s_a_1_2 I would do two of those with a 150 gallon if you want an aggressive set up with cichlids, as over filtration is a must for them. You could have lots of fancy goldfish, or 5 or so common/comet. No koi. What's your budget?

I would recommend this ,Its a bit more than $10 but honestly its cheap in terms of nice filters. I would recommend taking out the cartridge and adding your own biomedia. Its very cheap at pet stores, like $2-3 and then get a little bag to put it in which will be 99¢ or less.

An [Aquaclear] (http://www.amazon.ca/AquaClear-20-Power-Filter-Includes/dp/B000260FVG) is always a great choice, and although it's pricey it'll last a long time. Make sure to set the water output to low as bettas don't like strong current.

Images:
http://imgur.com/a/21kes

Tank paramaters:
10 gal, (approx 10x12x20)
Light
Photoperiod: 7am-7pm currently
Filtration
sand substrate
no CO2, no ferts
Stock: 1 Betta, a handful of MTS,
2 anubius (one bloomed!), java ferns (doing great, sprouting babies all the time), and water sprite, that was also doing great until this green stuff started growing on it.

 

Now that you have the info, what is growing in my tank? Tank has been stable since the beginning of Feb. though nitrates have always been low. I had diatoms for a while, but they have been gone about two months now. My sponge filter went out and I replaced it with the one listed above in the beginning of June. Then this crap showed up.
What are my options? I am just now getting around to finding out other stocking options. I wouldn't mind more flora or fauna, but I really don't want to have to dose ferts (if this is possible,) and I don't want to deal with CO2.
If it is cyano, is it possible to get rid of it without antibiotics?
Thanks in advance!

 
edits: formatting is not my friend.

Setup

Item| Description
---|---
Tank | 55 Gallon
Filter|[Marineland Penguin 350] (http://www.amazon.com/Marineland-Penguin-Power-Filter-70-Gallon/dp/B0009IMDQM/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1406908824&sr=1-1&keywords=bio-wheel+350&dpPl=1)
Filter | Marineland Penguin 150 filled with Biomax
Heater| Aqueon 200w heater
Substrate | Tahitian Moon Sand
Substrate| CaribSea Eco Complete
Lighting|Marineland Single Bright

I wish I went with a better lighting system as it's very weak, I can only grow low light, easy going plants. Currently looking for something better. I also want to upgrade to a [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Cascade%C2%AE-Canister-Filter-Gallon-Aquariums/dp/B0002DJ9NY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406911455&sr=8-1&keywords=pennplax+canister+filter&dpPl=1). canister filter.

I have in there some platties, had 4 red and 4 yellow but some died and some spawned, I don't know how much platties I have. I also have 2 green cory catfish, and 2 zebra danios (I know I'm supposed to have more, but when I first started out I had about 6 of each with some guppies. Had a bad ich attack and lost everyone except the two corys and two danios)



http://imgur.com/a/Pbs4X

I use these. If you got two, you could have a ton of fish and still maitina great water quality. http://www.amazon.com/Marineland-Penguin-Power-Filter-70-Gallon/dp/B0009IMDQM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418408571&sr=8-1&keywords=350+penguin

What type of filter do you have currently? Look up a water bottle baffle mod if its a hang-on-back type filter. Put a sponge over the outlet if its something like this or put a prefilter sponge over the intake if its a Hang on back style too. All of these help reduce filter flow.

There's a $40 off amazon. You might find the same cheaper on eBay but shipping will take longer from Hong Kong. Zoo Med Nano 10 External Canister Filter, up to 10 Gallons https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DGHRU2

I personally use this $12 for my mini aquariums.
Elite Underwater Mini Filter, UL Listed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009YD7D4

But I have shrimp and fish livestock. Love that model, been using it for over 10 years.

Your tank is looking great! I honestly just got rid of the filter/light on my chi this morning; replaced it with this light and this filter. It's already much better!

So I just use the pump and the tubing from this filter because it sucked up my last betta and I still had the parts for it. But you can use this pump or anything that is the right size for your tank :)

I like this 3 gallon filter and I use it in my 5 gallon tank - the most annoying part about it is it doesn’t have suction cups, uses a clip, so you’d have to glue on your own suction cups to get it to stay. It’s also a little loud so if your tank is in a bedroom this wouldn’t be great

Whisper In-Tank Filter 3i for 1 - 3 gallon aquariums (25846) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HHQ712/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_eR53AbWDK8AVT

http://www.amazon.com/Tetra-25846-Whisper-BioScrubber-3-Gallon/dp/B000HHQ712
This is what I use in my split 10 gallon on both sides. It doesn't bother the fish.

I find a simple, small stream of bubbles is ok as long as it's off in the corner and they have room to get away from it. I have a pretty weak pump on my airstone/decoration thing (2.5 gallon tank) and although I COULD keep it on all day and my betta would be fine, I feel stressed for him so I only turn it on sometimes haha! In my other 2.5 gallon I have a small filter without any filter cartridge in it just to move the water around a bit. That actually works better in my opinion...fish seems less bothered by it than the bubbles...but it IS uglier. I'd say do the airstone and just see how he reacts. :)

Here's the filter I have in my 2.5 gallon. The air pump that comes with this filter is the exact one I use for the airstone in my other 2.5 gallon tank as well. http://www.amazon.com/Tetra-25846-Whisper-BioScrubber-3-Gallon/dp/B000HHQ712

Honestly, those internal filters are a PITA, and take up a lot of space in an already small tank.

Look at HOB filters. I prefer canister filters, but for a ten, Go with something like this.

I still have a bucket of gravel that was in with them but it's also got a ton of feces and gunk mixed in it. I was just going to throw it away because I got some sand to replace it but I guess I could rinse it off? I have their bigger rocks sitting in some bleach water with the air pumps because they are covered in algae.


https://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-06080-QuietFlow-Filter-100GPH/dp/B000SP65N8/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1487887023&sr=1-4&keywords=AQUArium+filter this is the filter

10 Gallon Tank w/ Endlers Livebearers

1x 10 gallon tank empty tank without hood $10

2x Super Bright clip on LEDs from ebay $14

3x 5lbs gravel bags $10

1x 25 watt heater $10

1x Aqueon Filter $12

Dual Sponge Filter and Air Pump $15

Endlers The worlds best fish!

Endlers are prolific, colorful, rare, and have a better persoanlity than chicilids (I have both)

Well I already have the tank and it is 10 gallons. Im pretty anal lol but I dont want to go to overboard on the spending, I just want something that will do everything that its supposed to well, nothing flashy or crazy expensive. What Im most frustrated about finding is the hood that holds a light for the tank. I found this filter which got good reviews http://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-06080-QuietFlow-Filter-100GPH/dp/B000SP65N8/ref=pd_ybh_1 but im not sure how i can put a top on the tank with that on the side =/

I'm really close to having my first setup cycled based on those same tanks (although in 70 gallon for the fish and 50 for the gb). I'm really happy with them. A couple things to know about them:

• The drain plug at the bottom of the 70+ gallon tanks (the 50 doesn't have a drain) might need some tightening to fully prevent any leaks. Mine took quite a bit. I gave up on it and accepted the leak, then it seated itself and stopped. Weird.
  
• They flex and deform more than you'd think. So make sure your grow bed is well supported if it's raised.
  
  I used Grow Stones as my medium. More expensive but for a small system I figured it was worth it. Since they're made of recycled bottles they fit nicely with the resource minimization goals that most AP practitioners have. They're nice and light and very porous but need extensive rinsing/soaking to get the calcium carbonate off them, which will throw off your pH.
  
  In my limited experience so far, here's what I've learned and/or would have done differently:
  
  
• Avoid anything that will alter your pH. Test your grow medium to know what will happen.
  
• Avoid anything that will leach chemicals in to the system. Recycled HDPE, as much as you'd like to use it, is of unknown origin and might leach. I figured it was safer not to use the recycled stuff.
  
• Avoid metals. According to various aquarium forums, they will eventually harm your fish, even stainless steel.
  
• Do a fishless cycle. Don't listen to what your aquarium store tells you.
  
• When you add fish, quarantine them for 2 weeks so you can treat any diseases they come with (and many of them will) with whatever toxic slurry works best. Then when they're nice and healthy, add to your system for real. Be prepared for a bunch of water changes, but you can set up a quarantine tank for about $40 with a rubbermaid bin, a heater, air stone, and one of these for good measure: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000SP65N8/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  Hope that helps. If I'm wrong on any of this I'd love to know about it!

Here's one on Amazon just under $50 with free shipping.

http://www.amazon.com/Green-Killing-Machine-Internal-Sterilizer/dp/B001KP9B2W

When treating your fish make sure there isn't any carbon in the filter otherwise the medicine won't work. Also, I would recommend getting a UV sterilizer for the algae bloom. I'm attaching an Amazon link below. This is the one I have and it made a drastic difference.

AA Aquarium Green Killing Machine 9 Watt | Internal UV Sterilizer System with Power Head | Kills Algae, Bacteria, and Waterborne Pathogens | Easy, Submersible Installation

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001KP9B2W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VOFnDbY0ZE2D9

I'll try.uv 9watt

Plants yes, fish no. Plants will remove excess nutrients, and fish will add them back in. That's not to say you shouldn't add more fish though. 99% of new tanks go through all kinds of nasty blooms and phases before they mature.

It can be green, brown, red, purple, etc. It can be fuzzy, bubbly, flat, or hairy/fuzzy. Here are some examples:

http://i.imgur.com/DzvhFUA.jpg

http://www.furzmulde.de/Jan/960L/images/cyano1.JPG

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y55/steelhealr/cyano3.jpg

It is not actually harmful to your fish or anything, it is just unsightly and will cover every single surface in your tank, including plants, which will kill them.

It could also be diatoms, which look like this:

http://i708.photobucket.com/albums/ww82/bonomo53/DSC01359.jpg

They are completely harmless and feed off silicates. They show up, eat silicates, then disappear once there's no more food. There is no other way to get rid of them other than to just wait it out. They are mostly seen on substrate since that is where the most silicates will be, but can be on any surface.

The best way to kill your cyano right now, and prevent it in the future:

Suck it out/pick it out. As much as you can.

Get a UV sterilizer. If you are using a canister filter you can use something like this: http://www.amazon.com/AquaTop--Line-UV-Sterilizer-5W/dp/B005HK1OTO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1426166293&sr=8-2&keywords=In-Line+UV+Sterilizer

Or if you want it separate something like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001KP9B2W/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_3?pf_rd_p=1944687622&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B005HJYXNO&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0KRW38CX9XZE4BRR2PTH

They sterilize water with a high powered UV light. It is not required, it just makes it a heck of a lot easier to kill & prevent.

The next step is to blackout your tank. No lights. Cover it up if you have to, to prevent light from coming in. At least 24 hours, more if you can. It needs light to survive.

Last step, water changes. Keep up on them. You will need more frequent and larger changes at first to really remove the excess nutrients. This is a basic for any aquarium, cyano or no, but is the ONLY way to make sure the cyano dies and doesn't return. No excess nutrients, no bacteria.

Once it is under control you can add more plants and decorations. Add plants first before you add fish. If you are new to plecos, please make sure you feed him bottom feeder/algae eater food, they cannot survive on existing tank algae, in addition to this they make a lot of poop, and therefore a lot of excess nutrients, so make sure you've got the filtration to handle what kind of fish you want in your tank. They also get huge, so be ready for that!

I would say CO2 is more of a lifestyle than a cure. Its a big commitment in my mind but then I haven't tried it.

UV is easy to set up and you should see results in a week. if not just return it for a full refund within 30 days.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001KP9B2W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01

I use the Marina S10 in mine that came with a kit, and it works really well. It's super quiet and has adjustable flow, so with it turned all the way down there's very little current and surface agitation.

Just wanted to point out that while it's true that a 10g setup would cost roughly the same as a 5g, but sometimes space is a factor.

With that in mind, you can expect to spend roughly $40-60 depending on where and how you're shopping. Currently PetSmart has 5.5g and 10g tanks that come with an LED hood for $30, and PetCo has the $1 per gallon sale (10g minimum) if you're looking for a convenient route.

You should decide if you'd like live plants or not. That will determine many factors for your tank, such as what kind of substrate and lighting. Having a planted aquarium doesn't mean it'll be high maintenance or high cost, and going planted is almost always the better choice over artificial. That being said, a betta can live just fine in a tank with fake decorations.

Tank: $10-30 At my LFS, a 5.5g rimless is about $11. At a place like Petco/Petsmart, you're probably looking at $15-25. You should probably check out your local Craigslist while you're at it, too.

Substrate: $5-20 There's a lot of variety here.
Sand. Gravel. Rocks. Out of these three, I prefer sand. Some plants can still grow in it, it looks nice and is easier to keep clean since fish poop doesn't migrate to the bottom of the tank as much as with gravel/rocks.

If you're tight on a budget but would like lots of plants, check out the Walstad Method, which uses potting soil (organic) capped with sand, uses natural lighting and low/no maintenance plants. This method would probably set your back about $10-15 in substrate and plants.
If you've got a little extra money and want plants, you can buy soil made for aquariums (found in actual fish stores, not Petco/Petsmart), CaribSea (~$20 for 10lbs), etc.
Mix aquatic soil and sand or rocks if you'd like a compromise. For my heavily planted 5g, I used 2 liters of Mr. Aqua soil (~$20) and black sand ($3) to give you an idea.

Filter: $10-15 Sponge filters are dirt cheap and fool-proof, but require an air pump and some tubing. Some people prefer a hang-on-the-back filter; I use this one ($12) and stuff the insides with a sponge and ceramic media (I don't buy the refill cartridges). HOBs like this are advantageous because you can customize the filter media.

Heater: $10-15 Hydor 25w, $15 will do just fine for a 5g. There are cheaper ones, but keep in mind that many cheap heaters aren't adjustable and/or don't have light indicators or built in thermostats. If that's okay with you, then by all means.

Light: $0+ If you're not doing plants, no light is necessary. If you're doing the Walstad method or just have low light plants, you just need natural light or a lamp. If you're growing plants (other than moss/anubia/java), you can use a desk lamp but you'll want to look into getting some daylight (like 6500k) compact fluorescent ($5?) or LEDs. There are special lights that sit or clip on your tank made for growing plants, but they're more expensive at around $40+.


Thermometer: $1-3 Anything more than that's probably a waste.

Decoration/Plants: $5+ Just make sure no decorations have rough or sharp edges. It would be nice to give him a hiding spot, some people just use a small clay pot for plants. If you're going planted, you should check out anubias and java moss/ferns, as they don't require substrate or much lighting to thrive, and can be found anywhere.

Check out /r/AquaSwap and you'll find people selling plants, and you'll often find kind members who will just give you trimmings you can propogate yourself for free if you cover shipping ($5-7, usually), all you need to do is ask. It probably wouldn't be hard to find someone who could sell you equipment and accessories (new or established sponge filters, regular filters, heaters, etc) for a decent price.

Why not use a separate filter and put the lights on the timer?

http://www.amazon.com/Hagen-A285-Marina-Power-Filter/dp/B0032G8TPW/ref=sr_1_10?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1341333987&sr=1-10&keywords=aquarium+filter

Smaller than i thought. Hard to find hob filters for such a small tank. You can try Penn Plax cascade 20, though i saw its out of stock on amazon.


Also, i think this would be fine as well.

If it ends up being to much of a flow when pouring back into tank, you can just baffle it with a sponge.

I currently use this for one of my betta tanks. I bought it used and it's been running for over a year. The flow rate is adjustable which is perfect for any betta tanks.

Oh yes definitely ditch that horrendous filter/light brick thing that comes with it, what a piece of junk! I replaced it with a hang on marina filter from amazon and its been amazing. I put a bag of purigen in place of one of the carbon cartridges and that seems to work pretty well too. The light is an aquatic nature solar duo-boy 26 watt version

Personally I'd probably use something like this https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Mini-Pressurized-20g-CO2-Kit/dp/B0049RL3H4/ref=pd_sim_328_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=3T1NNC29PZG80HSTHAYK

A passive co2 kit could be used. It slowly dissolves into the water. Water movement is needed under the container to ensure that its spreading. Fill the container and leave it alone until it needs to be refilled again. It does take up some tank space since it's attached inside the aquarium.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049RL3H4/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_zl6YCbGAXZPN3

No that's not going to work - the CO2 in the water is going to bubble up and out of your tank in a hurry, much faster than any benefit you'd possibly get from it. This is a relatively inexpensive system that I've had on my 20 gal tank for the better part of a year and it has given me great results. Most people will tell you not to waste your money on these little co2 cartridges, but I've found it a pretty cost effective way to run co2 on a small tank. The little cartridges last a surprisingly long time.

I don't have it yet, but I'm planning on using this. Someone in the review section suggested buying these instead of the refills Fluval sells. Even though there aren't a ton of positive reviews I trust Fluval enough as a brand to feel comfortable buying the kit.

I should add that I'm upgrading my lighting before I get the CO2 system as I feel it'll help my plants more than CO2 will right now.

This is a pretty nice small internal filter. Unless you want to go with a hob style oooor maybe you are into the sponge filter world

This is my current filter btw. I wouldn't be surprised at all if it was overselling its flow rate too.

Thank you!!!

I have something like this set up for the tank. For a Pea Puffer 10g is recommended cause they are is so much waste they produce and they are very sensitive to water params (I keep mine usually around 7.5ph.)

A Colbalt Neo Therm Heater in the back right I covered with long grass kept at 78 (these guys like their water warm).

AZOO nano filter, but comparable to whisper filters you can get at Petco

I found a perfectly fit piece of wood from my LFS I have a pothos plant sitting on and growing (those are the roots you see)

Monte carlo and pretty much any sort of pennywort (hydrocotyle) I can get my hands on (I am obsessed).

I also have a small variety of floating plants, water lettuce, duckweed and my personal favorite frogbit.

Here's the build for my easiest to maintain tank. It was also extremely cheap to setup. I spent more on Bucephalandra than the tank, light, and filter put together.

Tank-Mr. Aqua 7.5 gallon Cube

Light-Chihiros C-series

Filter-Azoo Mignon 150

Substrate-Pool filter sand

Ferts-1/2 EI dose each week after 50% water change

CO2-None. CO2 makes tanks more difficult to maintain because plants grow really fast. This is coming from someone who keeps 3 high tech tanks.

I can grow plants in here very easily. I'm carpeting Helanthium tenellum and testing Lilaeopsis chinesis 'Maryland', Hydrocotyle tripartita 'Japan', there are a bunch of healthy crypts, lots of Bucephalandra, some Bolbitis, Ludwigia repens, corkscrew val, Myriophyllum aquaticum 'red stem', and Alternanthera reineckii 'Roseafolia'.

The SunSun Filters seem to be the best bang for your buck but I never had them. I have had a fluval 405 for years and I love it but the next one will be a sunsun its half the price.

Sunsun 302

I actually will support SunSun- good quality for cheap. This one is great for your tank, I just ordered one too

http://www.amazon.com/SunSun-HW-302-3-Stage-External-Canister/dp/B00892EN22/ref=sr_1_3?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1426904661&sr=1-3&keywords=sunsun+canister+filter

This is what I have on my 40g Turtle tank. Get some Seachem Matrix or look for the sunsun media kits and fill the top 2 baskets with it. Get some plastic pot scrubbers for the bottom tray to put under the stock filter pads, and find some sort of coarse pad to go in between the scrubbies and the pad.

Also, get some thread seal tape for the intake tubes if your water level isn't to the top of the tank, or you'll have problems with priming.

You should easily be able to stay under $100 and get a solid filter going.

Here are the few pictures he has. We just moved into our own place a few months ago, and we've been so busy with house work., it's a little overrun with algae.

Here is what he wrote up about it:

My 29 gallon Amazon biotype.

Flora:

Echinodorus bleheri, Broad leaf Amazon Sword

Echinodorus 'Kleiner Bar', Kleiner Bar Amazon Sword

Sagittaria subulata, Dwarf Sagittaria

Limnobium laevigatum, Amazon Frogbit

Fauna:

3 Microgeophagus altispinosus, Bolivian Ram

8 Paracheirodon spp., Neon Tetra, Green Neon Tetra

4 Corydoras panda, Panda Cory

Equipment:

Marineland C360 knockoff: SunSun HW-302

Inline heater

108w T5HO fluorescent growlight fixture (2 6400k bulbs)

High tech CO^2 system: 20oz CO^2 tank with inline diffuser.

Substrate: black diamond pool filter sand​

I'm two weeks in to my switch from a HOB to a Sunsun canister and I have no clue how I survived without the Sunsun. I love it. It's virtually silent, moved much more water, better flow... I adore it. Very easy to put together(Aside from the pipes, I had to stare at them for a couple minutes and try to find my center of peace). Make sure that you trim your hoses appropriately, though. It makes priming seriously easy.

This is the one I got. Pretty basic, but a great price for what you get! I have it in my 20 tall.

With those plants yes you do need c02. And very high lighting. That light probabaly won't be enough. I'd guess you'd need two of those. Personally if you're trying to save money I would just go buy a 48 inch t5-t12 4 bulb shop light and hang it above the tank. For the c02 if you want to save money you could buy a paintball c02 tank, a small adaptor, and then a regulator/solenoid for that. And then you will want to buy and diffuser/atomizer/reactor. Personally I would go with an inline reactor you'll save a ton of c02 and there for more money. All of these things I just mentioned can be bought on amazon.

Lighting: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GWAJGW0/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_Xvk-wb1EQ4JXR

(Bulbs for lighting: www.amazon.com/dp/B005OLL5IG/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_yyk-wbCP0NEWE)

C02: (tank) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007XKFQCM/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_Bzk-wbCKB2M5G

(Adaptor) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004M49QDC/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_DAk-wbPXGA6R8

(Regulator) http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hydroponics-Extoic-Injection-System-Regulator-Grow-Room-Flow-Meter-Control-CO2/221446697164?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D35626%26meid%3D2b21bf0137344d8aa2d826341e206413%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D321217917654

(sorry for the long link)

(Reactor) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DGJDXQ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_2Ck-wbWCH2VM5

^you do need a canister filter for that so if you don't have one of those here's a cheap one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00896IILA/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_VGk-wbNBS50GK


Realistically this is just the beginning of things you'll need to get a tank like that. But that is a cheap and good start. If you have any questions feel free to ask. It can be daunting but it's worth it!

If you want a canister, I would suggest this or this. We have two of the 535 gph canisters and they have been awesome. They are almost identical to Marineland filters (we buy Marineland filter pads and bioballs to fill them) but these will save you money.

As for lights, I really like CurrentUSA (we buy them from petmountain.com) but don't have any experience with LED. Your tank is pretty tall so you may need to go for something with more output than that though, so it may be worth forking over the big bucks for a good brand like Coralife just to get the additional intensity their better lenses/bulbs provide.

That's good to hear, so they're the same as the SunSun models?
I found this:
http://www.amazon.com/SunSun-HW-304B-External-Canister-Sterilizer/dp/B008986EQO/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

It appears to have a higher flow rate than the Penn Plax Cascade's in
my price range. Seems like a good deal

You are going to need to up your filtration if you plan to get more fish (it would make sense with more space) I would reccomend 2 of these! http://www.amazon.com/SunSun-HW-304B-External-Canister-Sterilizer/dp/B008986EQO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394340840&sr=8-1&keywords=sunsun
That is what i have on my 125 and they are awesome for a fairly good price.

I use a UV sterilizer in my tank for a few hours a week. I especially turn it on after cleaning the sides of my tank. My water is crystal clear now and I don’t have to put any chemicals in my water. I actually did go the chemical route at first but it did t help me much. My brother had left the lights on in my tank for 13 days straight when I was out of the country and both brown and green algae plagued my tank for over a year. UV is the way to go for sure. This filter has a built in light and it’s top tier (they come in many sizes, this was just the first one that came up on my search).
https://www.amazon.com/HW-304B-5-Stage-External-Canister-Sterilizer/dp/B008986EQO

For filters I'd go with two Fluval FX6's or two SunSun HW-304B's. Either of those will give you at least 8x overturn per hour. Or you could drill it and do a sump system.

The cheapest substrate would be sand from a local hardware store. My favorite so far is a pure white sand in 50 lb. white paper bags from Menards. Other people prefer black blasting sand, play sand, or pool sand. All work equally as well. As cichlids require hard water, you could use aragonite sand to help buffer the water, but a tank that size needs around 200 lbs. of sand and would get expensive quickly. There's also contractor's sand that is actually small pebbles. You can always go with the chunky gravel sold in pet stores. Or, if you're planting your tank, you could go with a dirted tank topped with sand or small gravel.

Throw in some cichlid stones, driftwood, or rocks to spruce up the decor a bit. Good luck!

I use a Sun Sun Canister filter. It is a cheap Chinese brand that works wonderfully. The instructions are not helpful at all, however, and in very broken English. I had to go on YouTube to figure out how to put it together, but once I saw it done it wasn’t difficult at all.

I would suggest this filter. I have them running on all my tanks and it does a really great job, also you dont have to worry about being underfiltered. There is also an identical filter manufactured by pingkay which is sligjtly smaller but comes with all the media. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008986EQO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1416425983&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

How long have you had her? Sometimes it takes new fish a while to figure out the whole feeding thing. Just gently tap on the glass to get her attention and make sure she sees you putting the food in.

For a filter, I really like my Aqueon internal filter. Just get rid of the cartridge and replace with the media of your choice and there you go. Adjustable spray makes it nice, I stick it in a corner and set it a little against the wall and it makes a fun circle current for mine to play in that isn't super strong.

https://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-10-Gallon-QuietFlow-Internal-Filter/dp/B00AWV4R8I

I got a 3.5 gallon tank for my daughter's Betta. I have been dealing with fin rot, but it looks like he's getting better. I am trying to find a better filter than the one I have now. I'm using the one that came with the top fin aquascene tank. I don't think he like it because it disturbs the water too much. I was looking into the quietflow at10. I think this will work great for my tank. The one question I had about it is the filter.
First off they are expensive and it has carbon filled in it. I have seen people say you can fill it with your own media to create your own filter. I have seen sponges and ceramic rings? I just wondering what I should look for and how to go about it. I accidentally killed my cycle anyways so don't worry about that. That happened before I even knew what a cycle was. I want to start fresh and have something I know my fish will like and will help create and sustain my cycle.

Here is the desktop version of your link

I have a few of these and the water temp on the other side of the tank is usually around 75-76 F. The trick with these presets is to get a little water flow going across it to evenly heat the water. In 2 of the tanks with these heaters I have an Aqueon Quietflow Internal Filter
[https://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-Quietflow-Internal-Filter-Gallon/dp/B00AWV4R8I](this one) and I have the outflow pointed right at the heater.

I like the Aqueon Pro heaters or Ehiem Jager heaters better honestly. They cost a bit more, but the quality is better and they're adjustable. Once they're calibrated they sit right at the set temperature. I have the Aqueon Pros in my 55g show tank and two of my split 10s, and the Ehiem Jager in the 10g my Sammy gets to himself.

TBH I'm not sure if there's any filter that's not crap that would only cost $10 (not counting sponge filters because they need a pump which costs more than the sponge itself).

Whatever you get, I'd reccomend something with a low and/or adjustable flow when it comes to bettas. This is what I have in my 5.5g.

I have seen canisters used before and the reason people get scared of them is because they think that they should not clean the filter pads because it will kill the biological filtration in the pads. However, you need to remember that the pads are there to clean out your tank by grabbing large debris and filtering it out of the system in consecutively fine filter media until the water is "polished". These pads need to be cleaned completely every time you clean the filter which is the same number of times you should clean the filter socks that a sump would use other wise a filter sock can cause the same issue. I try to clean my canister about once a week, I have all the biological filtration on the top trays and all of the pads on the bottom so that the water that goes through my bio filtration is as clean as possible making it so I never have to clean that part of the filter. I then run my pads through my washing machine on a rinse cycle, after I run several rinse cycles to eliminate any left over detergent, I have an efficient front loader for this so this might not work for all washing machines. The pads come out as clean as the day that I put them in the canister, I think the spinning does this more than the rinsing. I also dump all the left over waste water in the canister, which is about 2-3 gallons, then I clean out the canister and fill up the rest of my 5 gallon bucket from the tank for my 5 gallon water change. Since the bio filter media is left wet during this time all of the bacteria stays alive and is ready when I hook the filter back up. I will say that this can be more work than a filter sock on a sump which is why most people do sumps but a canister properly set up with a maintenance schedule can work.


Here is the filter I have, I was able to fit all the filter pads it came with in the bottom 2 trays and all the bio filter media it came with in the third tray. I then put a liter of SeaChem Matrix in the fourth tray but I could have fit more, you could also use MarinePure instead. I did throw the carbon that it comes with out, not very good, and replaced it with better carbon. The intake side also has a floating surface skimmer which for me helps keep the surface of my aquarium crystal clear. I found this option cheaper and over all I like it but like most I may switch to a sump at a later time but I will keep the canister because it can always be used with a sump as media reactor with a built in pump.


Edit: A word

The SunSun canister filters on Amazon are affordable, powerful, and quiet; best canister filter you can get for the money IMO. I have the 302 since it was the cheapest, but there are other models, some with UV sterilizers.

Here is the mobile version of your link

We all start out somewhere and good on you for learning and taking steps to improve it! :)

I think /u/SweetMamaKaty covered most of your bases when it comes to tank size and everything but you may want to check out Solid Gold on youtube for other guides and maybe it will spark a question you haven't thought of.

Two things when you're setting up your new tank though: avoid gravel and think about getting a canister filter. So first, gravel is kind of sucky for a few reasons that I'm sure you've noticed like their poo and food settling down in there and being awkward to clean and secondly, because they can try to eat it and choke. I'm still not sure how common the second issue is but a nice sand bottom of bare bottom is so much easier to clean. Secondly, canister filters are amazing. I personally bought a SunSun and love it. Its a bit pricier than a hang on the back filter but I felt it was worth it when I upgraded and the Sunsun is a good budget canister filter.

Its also a bit harder to guess goldfish's age simply because they could be a bit stunted and what not. If you've had them for almost a year, they're probably not the size they're supposed to be (really no judgement. its a common mistake and I don't think anyone here will fault you for it). But they look like two commons to me but I deal with mostly fancies and not too up and up on the single tails. They're really cute and lucky to have someone who cares enough to do their research :)

Don't know if you got equipment yet but I started with a 55 hex. I only switched to rectangular 55 because the other half found a great deal for us.
I use a fluvial e series heater they are much cheaper on amazon then what the retail stores sell them at. I believe 200 watt is what I use for 55 gallons. I use this filter it is completely silent http://www.amazon.com/SunSun-Hw302-264GPH-Canister-Filter/dp/B00MGX7JXA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1457790868&sr=8-2&keywords=sunsun+canister+filter I just used the stuff that came with it. I switch out the carbon once a month and one filter pad once a month. I also get rid of gunk if there is any in there.
Chromies school and stay towards the top of the tank, trying to have levels in my hex is why I have those fish. They are fun to watch.

I think this filter is a great value. I've had mine for about 18mo and not a complaint yet

https://www.amazon.com/SunSun-Hw304B-525GPH-Canister-Filter/dp/B00MH37484/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1491931749&sr=8-2&keywords=sun+aquarium+filters

I would suggest this filer. I've had mine for over a year with no issues. it's an easy filter to set up and keeps my 75gallon very clear even with 4 turtles in it

First and foremostly!!! You need this FISHLESS CYCLE GUIDE :) - The Nitrogen Cycle and the Fishless Cycle - getting your aquarium ready for fish - INJAF

>For light: I’m not too worried about this. I think I’m just going to buy whatever has good review on amazon?

Any light could do, even a table lamp with a good LED bulb w/ 4100K to 6500K (Kelvin scale) light color range, with 1-2 watts of lighting power per gallon.

​

>For heaters: I’m trying to decide between the Aqueon Pro Adjustable Heater, 100W ($32ish) and the Aqueon Pro Adjustable Heater, 50W ($17ish). Does anyone know which one is better for my 10 gallon?

10g tank only needs a 50w adjustable heater, UNLESS you live in an extremely cold climate where a 50w is not enough to keep the tank at the necessary 78-80F. Usually though, 5w of power per gallon is sufficient for heating power.

​

>For filters: I’m wanting to go with the sponge filters because I know they hold good bacteria and they’re more inexpensive, but I was also eyeing this aqueon quietflow (Aqueon Quietflow Internal Power Filter, 10 Gallon, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWV4R8I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xPbNDbXVQYK33). I mainly would prefer the sponge filter because it’s so much cheaper and I know the flow won’t be too strong for a betta, but my problem is that I don’t understand what to buy. If anyone could dumb sponge filters down for me or recommend a bit of a filter shopping list, I would really appreciate it.

Here's my favorite sponge filter setup which I use in my own 5.5g tanks (they're rated for up to 20g and are nice compact sponge filters, so do not take away much space from your tank).

https://www.amazon.com/Powkoo-Double-Biochemical-Aquarium-Gallons/dp/B01M3VALFU/ Me and my bettas LOVE LOVE LOVE THIS!!!

AND from Petsmart - I HIGHLY recommend the TopFin Quartz BioBalls ceramic filter media, the rounded pearl shape makes them fit a lot more into a small space such as the dual-media chambers in the sponge filter I highly recommended above. It looks like this in store: https://i.imgur.com/Xz50k5F.jpg (I think it's not yet listed on their website because the stuff is still a new release).

https://www.amazon.com/U-picks-Aquarium-Gallon-Quietest-Accessories/dp/B07RRNDMXJ/ Nice air pump with all accessories to set it up - quiet mini air pump, check valve, and airline tubing.

See it all in action: https://i.imgur.com/KAyjMaj.mp4 (not my tank but my friends when she was fishless cycling hers, and the sponge filter is nicely visible. Mine is hidden behind bunch of silk plants :< lol)

​

>Substrate: I’ve decided I want a low tech planted tank from the getgo. I would like some kind of carpet, I know this will be hard to achieve without CO2, but I’m ready to try it. I also want one of those sword plants I see around this sun. I want my plants to be able to root, but I also kind of want sand because it is my understanding that it will be easier to clean? Can I do something like soil with a layer of fluorite and another layer sand on top? Am I unnecessarily adding a bunch of layers here?

I donno much about planted tank substrates, I just use regular gravel (but I don't have a fully planted tank - hopefully someone w/ more info on that can weigh in).

>I want to start cycling as soon as possible, but I can’t until I get this together and I just want to do this right the first time around. Any advice would be appreciated.

The Nitrogen Cycle and the Fishless Cycle - getting your aquarium ready for fish - INJAF

API Freshwater Master Test Kit MUST MUST MUST HAVE ... and then Seachem Prime and Seachem Stability...

​

>One more thing, I really like the look of the bonsai wood with Marimo balls unfurled on them to imitate little trees. Does anyone know if this is safe for bettas? I worry that the fins could get torn up or something.

I'd use Java Moss instead... looks more tree-like than Marimo moss balls on those driftwoods... should be ok if you are very careful to fill up any prickly sharp parts so that betta won't have any way to get hurt on them.

In my 5.5 gallon I use an Aqueon Quietflow Internal Power Filter labeled for 10 gallon tanks, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWV4R8I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PHzVCbH2SBR7A

I removed their plastic bio comb thing and filled that space with ceramic rings. I also crammed some filter sponge between their cartridge and the intake as sort of a intake guard. I've been using the same cartridge for over a year and I just clean it when I clean the tank. Obviously the activated carbon is long since spent, but I roll with it since I keep my tank clean in other ways.

The output is adjustable but fairly strong even at lower settings, so I would not recommend for a betta tank.

I do like it, but at least for me the lack of ball valves definitely deter me from cleaning it as much as I should and and to buy them separate is expensive enough where I should have just got an Eheim. It’s so easy to just close the valves and carry canister to the sink.
I do have this filter on a ten gallon( tiny sun sun canister ) which doesn’t have ball valves but is a more manageable size and would probably be perfect for a ten gall betta tank ... Sunsun Tech'n'Toy HW-603B 106 GPH 3-Stage External Canister Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CC6SCJQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MVIpDb130RAQR I believe it comes with Lots of sponges so u just need to get your own ceramic rings. It’s not as overpowered, but it works well and has a nice spray bar. I love canisters because they are very QUIET !

3/12/15 Update!

http://imgur.com/a82EFp5

I got a brand new filter, the aqueon quietflow internal filter

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWV4R8I/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&qid=1426184823&sr=1&keywords=aqueon+quietflow+10

Put it in my tank, did a 50% water change, and waited about half an hour and my tank is absolutely crystal clear! I'm so happy I decided to take your advice and get a filter. I'm sure there will be tough days ahead, but for now I'm celebrating a small victory.

The shrimp are being mischievous as usual, and my betta is currently exploring his new/old tank. (I moved some stuff around).

My only real complaint right now is the plants don't really hide the stuff as much as I had hoped, but I can always move the stuff around later on.

Oh, I also added a tiny bit (Half a cap) of Bacteria.

Anything else I should do in the meantime?

Thanks for any and all help!

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hagen-A600-AquaClear-Filter-Listed/dp/B00020SVDG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=aquaclear+20&qid=1566824496&s=gateway&sprefix=aquaclear+&sr=8-1

How did you cycle it? And what are your ammonia readings currently?

Not to mention they'll eat a lot of plants! A 20 long is a perfect sized tank for any beginner imo (planted, saltwater, or basic setup) cause there's a lot of room to work with and not hard to find a light that penetrates deep enough if you've got something to grow.

Just not for goldfish! They are very messy, eat a lot and poop a lot and overall are messy babies bumping into things. Cute, tho!

Some tips:

• Check craiglist
  
• Better yet, see if there is an aquarium club/meetup in your area. Clubs will often swap supplies and tanks as people upgrade.
  
• Learn how to do a water change
  
• Learn about the aquarium cycle
  
• Get a filter that can do your tank's size and more (if you've got a 20gal get a filter rated for 30-40gal) Personally I really enjoy AquaClear filters, they move a lot of water for their size and you can even play with the filter media a bit to exactly how you want it. And on top of that it's very quiet!
  
  And my best advice of all..RESEARCH! The world of fish keeping can be a little daunting at first, since there's so much to know before you can even take the first steps. But stick to it! It's not as difficult as it seems and honestly? You're gonna be fine as long as you keep up with water changes and practice patience.
  

I absolutely hate tetra filters. They are junk. My top fin filter actually worked pretty well but it just didn’t last very long. It sounds like yours is really good though. You can’t go wrong with adjustable flow either. If you ever need another or get a bigger tank you should check this aqua clear filter out. I got it after my top fin quit working and I love it. It’s adjustable too and they have them for all different size tanks.

aquaclear 30

sponge filter

https://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-30-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B00020SVDG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1539614035&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=aquaclear+30&psc=1

That’s a link to what I got. I bought mine in store at petco though and it may have said fluval aquaclear on it, I don’t know if they work together or something.

Filters serve three main purposes: 1) The sponge filters out debris, 2) The carbon filters out chemical components like chlorine, flouride and metals, 3) Hosting nitrifying bacteria; these bateria are essential for neutralizing the ammonia that your fish's waste produces.

Here's the problem with these disposable cartridge filters: They say they need to be replaced because activated carbon only lasts for so long and eventually needs to be replaced. But if you throw the whole filter out, you're tossing away your colony of nitrifying bacteria, the ones that are taking care of the toxic ammonia in your tank.

These cartridges aren't great and are just made to make you spend more money. If you throw it out, you toss your bacteria, but if you don't, your carbon is useless - they don't have a great solution. What I recommend is an actual three stage filter - this means it has a separate sponge, bag of carbon, and bag of bio media, so that you can change the carbon and rinse the sponge without having to crash your bacteria cycle. I normally recommend AquaClear but that's pretty big for 3.5 gallons, maybe you can find something similar in an appropriate size that has all three types of filter media.

I apologize if my post came off snarky, but bettas are a very misunderstood breed. They belong in a min. 5 gallon tank. I've seen others raise in something as small as a 3 gallon tank, but it was not worth the maintenance they had to keep up on. Bettas do best in 78-80 degree water, so a heater and thermometer is mandatory. You want a filtration system, but you want to be careful with the current as something too strong will stress them out. Bettas are not the best swimmers because of the weight of their fins, so most bettas will began to bite them off to lessen the load. As others have suggested, you want to test the water, either by bringing samples to your lfs, are buying a kit, which I prefer. You will also want to cycle your tank to avoid ammonia spikes. I've added links to some helpful things including illnesses so you may be able to diagnose with a little research.

Betta illnesses

Nitrogen cycle

Betta fish care

Great filter with adjustable flow

Heater 100w



Edit : api test kit

Great for establishing a new tank

Dechlorinate, detoxify

Yep it's going onto a bureau. For the filter I was thinking of the AquaClear 50 More water stability is also always nice

http://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-50-Power-Filter-Includes/dp/B000260FUM
thats the filter equivalent of your p200. or you could go up to a 70. but the main thing is the bio media in the back. swap out the carbon for even more and you have a super strong bio filter going on.

this canister is pretty cool too. http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A207-206-External-Filter/dp/B005QRDDM4/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1406263645&sr=1-1&keywords=fluval+206

Lighting: It depends on how deep the tank is. In my 55g, 29g, and standard 20g, crypts and small swords have a really hard time with standard T5 fluorescent lighting. With double-bright LEDs, they do OK.

Anubias and java ferns are my heroes. They don't grow very fast, but they just don't need a lot of fussing over, either.

Java moss won't grow where it doesn't get light -- but it doesn't have to be strong light.

If I had my preference, every tank I own would have the proportions of a 20g long. There's a lot of volume for water and fish, but it's nice and shallow so it's easy to light and for plants to thrive. My 20g long has the crappiest lights and the most prolific growth of plants.

HOB filters: If you look at the way Aquaclear filters are put together, there are three distinct components. There's a coarse foam insert for mechanical filtration. There are pumice beads with lots of surface area for bacterial cultures to grow (bacterial filtration). Finally, there's a carbon packet that's meant to provide chemical filtration. They're all really important in an aquarium, but I rely on my plants to do the chemical filtration bit.

Now, don't get me wrong -- I've run tanks with Penguin & Aqueon & Biobag filters with the carbon already in there and it didn't kill my plants. But with my heavily planted tanks (where I've upgraded to Aquaclear filters), I have been able to completely omit the carbon component to no ill effect for my plants or my fish.

If nothing else, it reduces my operational costs. All I do is rinse out the foam insert from time to time and/or run the pumice beads under the tap to wash off the schmutz. They don't wear out (at least not in the time I've had mine running), and they shouldn't be scrubbed or sanitized, because the invisicritters that would make us sick are the things that keep the tank healthy.

The biggest thing that I've discovered to help my low-tech, low-light planted tanks look great is to take advantage of vertical planting, meaning that I get big (tall) pieces of driftwood and anchor plants all over them. That way, I end up with greenery going gangbusters at various levels without having to rely on some kind of stem plant (although Hygrophilia difformis/water wisteria is a good one) to grow upwards all the way from the bottom of the tank.

I really like these filters
http://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-50-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FUM

for a 30 gallon tank you'd want one capable of up to 50 gallons or so.

Theyre great because of the three separate cartridges- Also, ignore the packaging, you can reuse the sponge and the ceramic rings indefinitely unless a terrible awful disease breaks out. So this filter saves you money too!!

Edit: Puffers are usually too big/aggressive/brackish to include in a tank like this. Unless you had mollies/platys which have a high salt tolerance. Cories have zero salt tolerance tough.

Some of my favorite community fish are Galaxy Rasbora or Celestial Pearl Danio (same fish) I also like Badis. Theyre anabantids(sp) like the Betta.

I'd also highly recommend live plants. they really make you look good. Aquariumplants.com has total and trace substrate pellet fertilizer which Is pretty good at keeping them well fed.

My Ammonia and Nitrites spiked. After some help from you all my fish couldn't be happier. I got a second filter The AC50. I am leaving the old filter running in the tank for 6+ weeks to help grow good bacteria. I currently dont have another tank so I will leave both filter running, that and with 25% water changes every other day for a week plus Prime and Stability the fish should be quite happy.

• Slow water changes rate down to weekly.
  
• Next plan is to get some plants and a better lighting.
  
• Maybe start my plants in a second 10g tank, then move a few over to my big tank.
  
• My SO isnt too happy about my plan to spend more money on my fish tank but I enjoy it. so will see :D
  
  
  Thank you guys so much for all your help.

Check out the Aquaclear 50.

I dunno if you'd call it "budget" but it's the best for the money really. Also, I take the carbon out and put in more bio material.

I definitely wish I got an aquaclear judging by the reviews. I got a top fin 20 on sale a long while ago for my 10 gallon, and for even less than half the cost I wouldn't get it again. Filtration isn't bad, but it is really loud. Somehow even louder with the cover on it. I ended up replacing it with a much larger penguin biowheel filter with some aquaclear sponges in place of the biowheels which is doing quite well.

By the way, if you are in the US amazon has the AC20 for a little bit cheaper.

I marked things with a [w] if they're on my WL!

1. Something that is grey. China Glaze Polish Ecollection Recycle [w]
   
   
2. Something reminiscent of rain. Hehe, a watering can [w]
   
   
3. Something food related that is unusual. Miracle Noodles - they're these weird low-carb noodles [w]
   
   
4. Something on your list that is for someone other than yourself. Tell me who it's for and why. (Yes, pets count!) LARPing Book for my friend Dennis. His is missing several pages, which is very frustrating to him. He's endlessly dear to me. [w]
   
   
5. A book I should read! I am an avid reader, so take your best shot and tell me why I need to read it! Other People's Love Letters - doesn't that just sound romantic? :D [w]
   
   
6. An item that is less than a dollar, including shipping... that is not jewelry, nail polish, and or hair related! Mickey Mouse Cookies!
   
   
7. Something related to cats. I love cats! (keep this SFW, you know who you are...) SmartCat [w]
   
   
8. Something that is not useful, but so beautiful you must have it. Triple heart necklace <3 [w]
   
   
9. A movie everyone should watch at least once in their life. Why? Love Me If You Dare. Everyone should have more French film in their lives. It's a beautiful, artistic, funny, romantic movie. The main characters are hot.
   
   
10. Something that would be useful when the zombies attack. Explain. Cast Iron is heavy! [w]
    
    
11. Something that would have a profound impact on your life and help you to achieve your current goals. For exercise, way easier on my knees than the treadmill [w]
    
    
12. One of those pesky Add-On items. Awesome fabric softener - and I really want it, too! [w]
    
    
13. The most expensive thing on your list. Your dream item. Why? A Roomba. I have pets. I need to vacuum more often. I'm lazy. Also he would be my robot butler friend. I'd name him Alfred or Jeeves or Pennyworth. My cats would be afraid of him. [w]
    
    
14. Something bigger than a bread box. A mattress is quite a bit bigger! [w]
    
    
15. Something smaller than a golf ball. Pearl earrings [w]
    
    
16. Something that smells wonderful. Lilac and Lilies! [w]
    
    
17. A (SFW) toy. Cat toy! [w]
    
    
18. Something that would be helpful for going back to school. Chromebook! It's actually for when my husband starts college. [w]
    
    
19. Something related to your current obsession, whatever that may be. Filter for my new fishtank! [w]
    
    
20. Something that is just so amazing and awe-inspiring that I simply must see it. Explain why it is so grand. Electric bike so, my comment on this is: “Theoretically I would like to bike. Realistically I'd like to bike, except up hills. Oh, here we are!”. Right?! Also what they sell electric bikes on Amazon? Damn! [w]
    
    Bonus:
    
    Oregon Chai!

1- I’m aware of the window issue, but my house is full of windows (no complaints there!) and there wasn’t a better spot. That window is north facing and we rarely open the blinds.
2- except for the somewhat impulse bought setup I’m over planning.
3- substrate is sand and river stones.
4- I’m probably going with no background anyways, just out of laziness. I like the light strip idea.
5- definitely going with real plants
6- obviously. :) I have a dumbo plakat
7- I’m 100% getting corys. Do the different types have different personalities or just coloration? I’m leaning towards panda. I’m probably getting Harlequin Rasboras. I’m considering a snail because of the window/algae situation. I’m going to stock it really slowly though.
8- it came with a light.
9- already bought this filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000260FUM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kbSaBb411RKF2
10-13- already done
14- probably going with a floating log (or two)
15- I might use the small tank I’m moving my betta out of for shrimp.
16- will do. In the small tank I have I use a turkey baster as a “vacuum”, that’s not going to work anymore. Haha.

I’ll definitely post updates :)

Well, at a certain size people start recommending a sump/refugium. A sump of 20 gallons is a so much more capacity for filtration than a HOB could ever be. But they are more difficult to setup.

If I were going to use a HOB for a tank that large, I might just use two of these
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000260FUW/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_m8Ovxb3MWMDGV

"But why?" you might ask. Two reasons. First it meets the capacity requirements in excess of 40 gallons and better circulates the tank. Second it provides redundancy in case one filter goes down. Another filter you might look at is sponge filters for power outages. Can be used on a battery operated pump and simple to use
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051XIN78/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_YaPvxbRNYX7J2

You might go the route of canister filter.
This actually doesn't meet the requirements of circulating your total volume ten times in an hour, so be aware of that. A 100 gallon tank might use two of these. Again redundancy is a beautiful thing.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015JMQRNC/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_QdPvxbAH4274M

If you're excluding live/dry rock 500$ is enough to get you an okay start into the hobby. Lighting will probably be your most expensive piece of hardware and there are some really good deals on Ebay right now for cheap LED's Like the D120's and Aquamana on Amazon is also a good LED for a cheap price.

If you want to go HoB filter with maybe a fuge mod this is a popular build and is only 41$

I don't know much about skimmers but they can be pricey, but if you don't overstock the tank I'm not sure if a skimmer will be absolutely necessary.

There are also things to take into account like thermometer and power heads, though you can find good ones online for reasonable prices there are a large amount options and it kinda depends on doing your own research and going with something, those things could run for a total of around 100$.

You can go get them at Petsmart or percolate but I always check Amazon first. I'd go with double the filtration for a 30 gallon, so that'd be a filter for around 60 gallons. Let's see.

This is for a 70 gallon and it comes with all the inserts you need. I have the Aquaclear 50 and I love it. The only issue in had was the lid rattled so I took it off and covered it with Saran Wrap. Quiet as the wind now.

http://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-70-Power-Filter-Includes/dp/B000260FUW/ref=pd_sim_petsupplies_5

I didn't use that power 10 for more than a few minutes because I saw how much he struggled with it. I purchased an Aquaclear 20 and the video is showing it on its lowest setting. He was fine on the left side of the tank, but I still wanted it a little calmer for him. I moved the tall plant from the left side to where the water pours in and that seems to have solved any issue that he had. Also, filling the tank up closer to the rim improved it even further. I will post another video once I get home tonight.

AquaClear20. For a small filter, there's a good amount of room for growing plants out of it.

AquaClear 20 Power Filter - 110 V, UL Listed (Includes AquaClear 20 Carbon, AquaClear 20 Foam & AquaClear 20 BioMax) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000260FVG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_czfaAbPX4DE5X

http://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-20-Power-Filter-Includes/dp/B000260FVG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1401931978&sr=8-1&keywords=aquaclear+20

A little pricy but very good reviews, very customizable as to what kind of media you want though and easy to clean.

Pretty sure aquaclear was either always owned by hagen, or was purchased by them in the last 2 years or so. That was around the time the Aquaclear brand started to be replaced with the Fluval brand. All the power filters are identical to the old aquaclear ones, they just say fluval on the top now. All the sponges, carbon, zeolite, etc packs are all compatible with the old aquaclear filter.

compare:

aquaclear 20 vs fluval 30

Otherwise, yeah, if they don't carry any of that in store anymore, you can either go to petco, who still carries them, or make your own. They should still sell cut-to-fit sponge and as long as you have a filter sock and access to loose media, you can always make your own replacement cartridges for much less money.

But I think u/BetterButterflies is onto something. This is one of the easiest filters to customize and use your own media in. Less profitable overall to the retailer, since they aren't selling, say Tetra or Aqueon's proprietary filters every month.

My betta is in an aqueon 5 gallon tank with an Aquaclear 20 filter and an Eheim Jager 25W heater. Water parameters at perfect 0/0/<5.

I also have a Finnex Planted+ clip-on light, but unless you're growing live plants, it might be too much light.

Otocinclus Catfish are small algae eating armored catfish that get about 2 inches long. They are shy, peaceful fish that eat algae. You can compare them to a dwarf pleco pretty much.
There is no need to QT plants and I'm not sure what you mean by which way the stems will grow out from. The only thing I can think of is that you're asking which way you should plant the seeds? Plants always grow towards the light, so you should have no problems there. I would recommend starting with plants that are already grown though. This way, even if you have low lighting, they'll be a decent size and you won't have to wait ages for them to grow.

I see you have new questions! Here we go:

• Aqueon Versa top lids will fit pretty much any tank. If you get a standard 10g you can order this and it will work fine for you. As for lighting, I use this. It grows my plants ridiculously fast and also has blue lights for nighttime use. It as adjustable "feet" so it's guaranteed to fit your aquarium.
  
• I would suggest a Aquaclear 20 or Marineland Filter for your tank. Aquaclear is pretty much the best thing ever. If you're worried about flow, there is a slide option on the top that will reduce the amount of water coming out. You can set it to whatever you like.
  
• Tannins are a compound found in plants, this will not hurt your fish at all. However, if not removed, the tannins will color your water yellow. I haven't seen pre-soaked driftwood in petsmart/petco. You can try ordering it online and simply boiling it or soaking for a few weeks to get the tannins out.
  
• I make bullet points by clicking the bullets option above the comment box, this may be a feature of reddit RES though. You can make bullets simply by typing * and putting a space behind it.

You could be over feeding that’s a big cause of it so the best way to feed them that I find is to give them as much as they will eat in ten minutes. And this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hagen-A595-AquaClear-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FVG is the best filter I can find for a 20 gallon

>What plants?

This is a good place to start. There are lots of good beginner plants that are hard to kill and don't need a lot of light or special requirements. Annubia, java fern and java moss are the sort of 'go to' beginner plants. Bettas also like shade, so maybe look into some floaters like amazon frogbit or salvinia (not sure I spelled that right). I also enjoy water sprite and cabomba (again not sure of spelling) for stuff to grow taller in the background.

>What substrate?

If you keep things simple, you won't need a special substrate. A lot of the beginner plants take in nutrients from the water column, so they don't need any special soils or substrate to grow. In fact, many of them don't need to be rooted down at all, you can just glue them to rocks to keep them in place.

>How should I plant them?

Taller plants toward the back. Do research on plants you intend to get, some do feed from the substrate primarily and might need root tabs for healthy growth.

>How long in advance to plant, how to cycle a tank?

So, plant them when you start up your tank. No need to cycle, just toss them in dechlorinated water.

As far as how to cycle, this is a decent guide for a fishless cycle. You're going to need a way to test your water through this, the best bet is an API master test kit. The best prices are online if you've got time to wait for shipping. A little pricier than the test strips, but they're more accurate and last way longer, so it makes up for the price.

>What filter?

Personally I use sponge filters, they're super gentle and have a stupid amount of room for your bacteria to grow. They're super cheap, I got 2 for less than 10 dollars (plus shipping), but they do need an air pump to run them. You'll also want some check valves and a way to restrict the air flow - they make little inlets that have flow valves to control the air for cheap.

Alternatively, I've heard great things about the aqua clear 20 filter. It's got an adjustable flow so you can slow it down to suit your tank, and does a better job than sponge filters for water clarity. Also pretty cheap, and you won't need to buy the air pump.

>What to do with empty tank?

Make it a shrimp tank!

This one?

Do you wash the charcoal when you renew it? And do you have anything in your filter other than charcoal? I recommend a sponge so the waste can be absorbed. Squeeze that thing out into the sink once a week and you should be golden.

Ps: this is the absolute best filter I’ve ever owned. it kicks ass.

I hear GREAT things about this filter.

https://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-20-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FVG/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1504219125&sr=1-1&keywords=aquaclear+20

For the light this one looks pretty good for a clip on Lominie Asta 20 Freshwater.

For the filter I will always recommend aquaclear for HOB, the aquaclear 20 would be a good fit.

I set my tank up about a month ago. I'm still new, but I've learned a lot so far.

1. I started with basic guppies. I've heard that rasboras, mollies, platies, corydoras, and danios are also very easy to take care of. Here's a list of "beginner" fish.
   
   
2. I started with 37G. It's a bit big. Water changes are frequent things, and the bigger your tank, the more you have to do. That said, the smaller your tank, the more your water condition can fluctuate/spike. I'd recommend a 20G long - the depth of my tank is the most annoying for me.
   
   
3. Yep. I'm doing fish-in cycling, and it's a pain.
   
   
4. Yep. Get one that will run through your entire tank's volume multiple times an hour. You want a filter rated for more than your tank - if you do 20G, and get a 20G-rated filter, you're just baaarely doing enough filtration. Aquaclear has very good reviews.
   
   
5. Probably a couple hundred bucks. Don't forget, you'll probably need a heater, too!

Try this one. It says it is for a 60 to 110 but use the selection box like I did in the link.

Does your dad have an API freshwater master test kit? If so,what are the parameters. If not, get one and test the water. Your dad is using distilled water?! Then he also needs to add certain minerals to the water itself. I'd like to know why he's using distilled water.

AquaClear 30 Power Filter - 110 V, UL Listed (Includes AquaClear 30 Carbon, AquaClear 30 Foam & AquaClear 30 BioMax) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00020SVDG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4EPbzbM44XXWZ

It's not the best quality, so you will probably have to replace parts of it over time, but it's a good starter kit.

If you want to get some slightly higher quality gear for a comparable price, I recommend:

• get a standard 20 gallon tank at the dollar per gallon sale ($20)
  
• filter: Aquaclear 30 ($30)
  
• heater: Hydor 50W($20)
  
• lights: Nicrew LED 20-27"($30)
  
  Boom, that's $100 and you get pretty much everything that's included in the kit but it will last longer. I don't think the light will let you grow much more than low-light plants, but it probably won't be worse than the light that comes with the kit.

Link to volcano.

Link to filter

I'm getting a second filter in a day or two. I knew I should have gone with the 50 in the first place, but oh well.

I got the one below, but I only have a 10 gallon tank. They have larger versions for different tank sizes. I noticed that if you keep the cover off of the top of the filter it makes it even more quiet than it already was to start with. If I weren't in a bind and could have waited for it to ship I would have ordered on Amazon. That is a great price. I paid $40 for that filter in petsmart


https://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-50-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B00020SVDG?th=1&psc=1

I have the Fluval power filter 30, and I have the flow set to medium. Here's a link:
https://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-30-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B00020SVDG

Thank you so much for your input!

AquaClear 30
I can also add a Tetra Whisper PF10(gallon) if you think that would help.(?)

According to AqAdvisor, your stocking level would be at 102% with 6 Neon Tetras, 6 Harlequin Rasbora and 1 Platy (not 2): See Here

Also-- you'll need a better filter as this filter is not enough. I would recommend an Aquaclear 30.

I have a 20 gallon that I use two Aqua Clears with. They are simple and inexpensive.


http://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-30-Power-Filter-Includes/dp/B00020SVDG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381960009&sr=8-1&keywords=aquaclear+30

I had a biowheel but the wheel kept stopping. I think a canister is kinda overkill for such a small tank. Plus, it's expensive. I love the aquaclear's ability to mix and match media. I used the sponge along with some Purigen and ceramic stones for bacteria. The only problem I had was my plants kept fouling the intake tube when bits got caught in there but I simply had to take out the tube and clean it.

I say you get that and if it you like the hobby, then you can invest in a canister.

Are you wanting a canister for the efficiency or because it more aesthetically pleasing?

Just my personal opinion, I wouldn't get a canister for a tank that small. I'd probably get an Aquaclear... maybe something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-30-Power-Filter-Includes/dp/B00020SVDG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1348770268&sr=8-1&keywords=aquaclear+filter+30

The Aquaclear filters are a great HOB filter that is reliable and very generous with the amount of filtration space it provides. There's also the Azoo Mignon Filter which is equally as good and has space in the back for a small heater if you can fit it.

Cherry and blue dream are the same species and will interbreed.

I would recommend picking one or the other.

When they interbreed, you won't get purple, instead you'll get some poorly colored blues, some poorly colored reds and a lot of "plain" which are basically mostly clear with some light brown.

Also neocardinas like lower temperatures, if you're looking to build a colony you should avoid tropical fish since they prefer warmer temps. If you're keeping shrimp a heater isn't really necessary.

I agree to wait for the $1 per gallon sale, it really is difficult to beat.

Over the last few years I've had 6 20g's going at the same time with slightly different set-ups from sponge filters to HOB to canister. I experimented with all methods, hi-tech, low-tech, waldstadt.

The most important thing you can do is think about what your end goal is. You'll make mistakes at first, everyone does. But if you plan ahead you can minimize how costly they will be.

If I were to recommend a set-up to a beginner.

• $20 aquarium PetCo $1 per gallon sale
  
  
• $35 AquaClear HOB filter
  https://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-20-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FUM
  
• $8 SunSun powerhead
  https://www.amazon.com/SunSun-Submersible-Aquarium-Hydroponic-Powerhead/dp/B00OUJ60RY
  
• $90 LED + full spectrum. As far as lighting goes, I've never been let down by Current USA, but I've never tried this model.
  https://www.amazon.com/Current-USA-Satellite-Freshwater-Aquarium/dp/B00C7OTE0O
  
• $40 Substrate I recommend aquasoil
  https://www.amazon.com/Aqua-Soil-Amazonia-Liter-Normal/dp/B00519832W
  
• $80-$150 for hardscaping. I would recommend Seiryu, Manten, or Ohko stones. You'll want 20-30 lbs and the cost ranges from $3 per lb to $6 per lb.
  
• $10-$25 for plants. For starting off I'd recommend something easy and fast growing like hygro pinnatifida, cabomba caroliniana, dwarf hairgrass, and rotala indica.
  
• $10 initial livestock. Get everything set-up and planted. Then buy 5 white cloud minnows to cycle your tank for the first month. These guys love the same parameters as your soon to be purchased shrimp.
  
• $5 second livestock purchase, get 2 otolincus catfish. By this point your tank should be cycled and some algae may be growing, otos will clean that up in no time.
  
• Now you buy your shrimp. You can get decent quality fire red cherry shrimp for ~$3-4 each, or blue dreams for $5-7 each. You'll want to start off with 10. Be good with your 20% water changes every week and soon they will be molting afterwards. Soon you'll get babies, after your first batch is born, buy another 10 to improve the gene pool a bit.

So I'm planning on getting a 55 gallon planted tank and was looking around for HOB filters. Would getting two of this be overkill? My hope is to keep the tank as clean as possible at all time with little water changes per week.

Alright...time to start typing out this monster.

Ive been reading guides and stuff, but i have a terrible memory when reading things, and theres some stuff i want to double check, etc.

Im looking to set up my old 29 gal tank from when i was a kid (its been empty for 10+ years). My goal is to do a planted tank with primarily tetras and shrimp...maybe a pleco and perhaps another type of schooling fish.

I probably wont be able to start cycling for ~2 weeks or so, though by the time i buy stuff on amazon, etc thats probably a decent timetable.

This light was suggested to me by another user. Should be sufficient for growing plants in a low tech system, right?

Ive seen various numbers for how 'oversized' a filter should be. Right now im kinda looking at these two (1) (2). Any comments on brand? It looks like i can get either one in bigger/smaller sizes. 400gph seems like it might be a bit overkill...but is 250 too low?

Ive read that often the agitation in the surface water by the filter is enough to provide sufficient gasses to the plants/fish...do you think that ill be true in a low tech tank? Would an aerator help? I dont think i'll mind having bubbles coming up in the background if it will, but am i overthinking this?



I wish i had saved more links on substrate and sand and all. Any recommendations for substrate for plants? Would probably like black stuff. I think this is the one i had read about being good?

Thinking about doing a bit of gravel in the tank, but i'd also like to do some sand. Maybe something like 2/3 sand (maybe a couple different types?) and then the rest gravel? Thoughts/concerns?

I thought i had read somewhere that people often use blasting sand (rinsed well)....anyone have comments on that? I could probably get some for cheap from work, though im not sure i want dark sand...


Best place to get a larger piece of driftwood? Ive looked around online a bit and have seen a ton of different sites and whatever, but was wondering if anyone had a suggestion for where to go. Im probably going to want one big piece, and then i can get smaller pieces from wherever.


I assume when im doing water changes and stuff im going to want to bypass our water softener? Our water is supposed to be pretty hard, do i want to maybe mix softened with unsoftened? (ive seen a lot of stuff about adding minerals to pure RO water, but havent seen much on softeners)




Im sure ill think of more, but this should at least be a good start...

Edit: Best place to get rocks and stuff? I'd like a couple for a natural look, im just not sure where to get them. I could get some red granite around here, but im not sure how that'd work, and it seems like it'd be really heavy...?

I run a dual setup in my 40 gallon long tank; a canister alongside a HOB. I love this setup and recommend it to anyone for larger tanks. It gives you the large size of the canister filter for a good amount of bio media, but you also have the HOB to add any small little things you need to for the tank. For example, in my HOB, I run filter floss, foam, and purigen. While in my canister I run bio balls, foam, and PhosGuard. Oh and I should mention that the HOB I use is an AquaClear 50, and the canister is an Eheim Classic 2215.
Specs on those:
Eheim:
164 GPH
Total Filter volume of 1.1 Gallons
Rated for tanks up to 92 US Gallons
AquaClear
200 GPH max (depends on how much filter media is inside)
Rated for tanks up to 50 gallons

I just recently purchased a 125 gallon tank and am slowly building up all the stuff to get it set up. I am looking at filters now and was looking for advice. I plan on planting it pretty heavily and stocking it with some big fish like black knife ghost fish, some catfish, and arrowana (knowing i will upgrade the size of the tank) I was looking at possibly doing an aquaclear. The 110 seems like its slightly too small for my tank which brings me to my question. would it be better to use 2 aquaclear 70 or 3 aquaclear 50 to make up for the size? are there some nice canister that would look and function better than multiple aquaclears? Thanks.

I have this filter on it right now. I could probably get away without it though. I just have it for looks. I like the water flow, and it clears up the water quickly after a trimming session.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000260FUW/?tag=fishlore-20

https://www.amazon.com/Marineland-Penguin-Power-Filter-50-Gallon/dp/B0009IMDQM/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1519069282&sr=1-4&keywords=filter&th=1

I was looking at these two so far, but the 2nd one seems off since its half price the others...

Check out the Aquaclear 70 (AC70). In terms of media, I personally use chemipure elite and purigen. I've also seen alot of people mod the AC70 to be refugium.

https://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-70-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FUW

Thank you for the great reply! :) I know already I will feel sorry for the baby fish and the eggs, but nature and its course etc :)

So if one keeps the fry and grows them up... What do you do then? Can someone sell to a store if they're pretty? Not like I'm interested in breeding, just curious.

As for the filter, I was thinking of this one.
What do you think?

https://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-70-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FUW/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=fluval%2Baquaclear&qid=1550971911&s=gateway&sr=8-2&th=1&psc=1


Is this the one you’re talking about?

I did some research on this and found many people have problems with sound and the filter draining and breaking. Have you experienced these issues?

Awesome thank you for the help.

Im thinking of switching out my filter and purchasing this one:

http://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-70-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FUW/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1457978000&sr=1-1&keywords=aquaclear

It appears as though this one makes it easier to install the 3 different types of filters rather than the current filter I own.

Can I go ahead and make the switch or is there something I should know? Thanks!

I recently got an Aquaclear model, seems to work well and can accept alternative media.

This one is rated 40-70 Gal; https://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-70-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FUW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1506616335&sr=8-3&keywords=aquaclear

My suggestion is an aquaclear filter. I have four and love them. I'd suggest going with the 50 or the 70. If you need to baffle the filter you can use a bit of sponge or a water bottle to slow the current. You can also look into prefilter sponges to keep is tail out of the filter.

If you do a group of 5 loaches and a betta that would put you at roughly 50% stocked, perhaps lower. You can input everything into aquadvisor to get a better idea of water change schedule and all that good stuff.

Were you monitoring the ammonia levels while you did it?

Im not sure why your levels are so wonky either, like others said it doesnt sound over stocked..i have a tank with 2 adult axies and my levels have never gotten that high!

Im not sure how your filter looks, but you should try the HOBs that are 3 parts that can be changed/rinsed independently. One of those parts you can even change to be absorbing excess ammonia (what i do for my axies)

Ammonia piece: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003025AVO/ref=sxl1?qid=1465797788&sr=1&refinements=p_89%3AFluval&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65

The type of filter it fits in: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000260FUW/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1465797869&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=Fluval+HOB&dpPl=1&dpID=41Rr1kpTVOL&ref=plSrch

I live in New Zealand if I buy this and this will they work in my electrical wall sockets?

Thanks! I forgot to mention how much I love serpae tetra as well and hope to include them.

Any suggestions for a hood? This Marineland LED has some questionable reviews but I'm having trouble finding suitable alternatives.

Looks like the Aquaclear HOB would be a little large for the hole in that particular hood (6.5" pre-cut hole and the filter says 7") but I'm not afraid to cut it to make it larger. I suppose if I get a submersible heater there's no other equipment that would require additional holes hole to be cut into the hood, right?

Any heater preferences?:

Fluval

Aqueon

Eheim

here is one. I have prime so I try and use amazon as much as I can. The set-up is pretty easy and I just take out that carbon filter as I don't have to treat the fish. Make sure you pour some water in the filter before you start it up.

To get the flow really low, I turn the filter flow adjustment clockwise (it's shown on the cover) and then lift it up a little bit so the suction is a bit less. You'll see how it works when you get the filter.

Make sure you cycle! (Though I'm sure you already knew that).

I have this on my 10 gallon planted beta tank and like it a lot. if you want a hang on back this is supposed to be the best

I have the first two filters. I would not recommend either. The sponge filter is not big enough to fit an air stone inside, which is a must, and the tetra filter just was too loud and had bubbles continuously flowing out the top. I would look into these two:
http://www.amazon.com/Finnex-PX-360-Compact-Canister-Aquarium/dp/B002VFF8U4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463179411&sr=8-1&keywords=finnex+px-360

http://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-20-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FVG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463179477&sr=8-1&keywords=aquaclear+20

Aquaclear 20

Replace the carbon with Purigen and you're good to go.

I'm sure I'll get something better. I've heard lots of positive about this one

http://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-20-Power-Filter-Includes/dp/B000260FVG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406499945&sr=8-1&keywords=aquaclear+20

This filter will filter up to 100 gph, which covers the minimum requirement of 10x the tank capacity (if you turn it all the way up and make sure it is never clogged) and is cheap. I use Aquaclear filters in both of my tanks and love them. Do not use the carbon insert unless you need to remove medication from the water. Instead get another little sack of biomedia to put in there for the beneficial bacteria to live in.

That said, please get your fish a larger tank with proper filtration as soon as possible.

https://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-20-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FVG/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Media is the stuffthat is inside the filter, most filters have cartridges that need to be replaced, but replacing them will kill your cycle and harm your fish, maybe even kill them. Try to get this https://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-20-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FVG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1517896693&sr=8-1&keywords=aquaclear+mini


When you need to clean it just squeeze out the spong in tank water and replace it.

Had the same tank a few years ago and the filter it comes with is realy shit...
I have choosen this one and was realy happy with it! Good power and easy to clean or to stock with other materials.
AquaClear 20 Power Filter https://www.amazon.de/dp/B000260FVG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_z3gEzb9DD6XDR
My dad also has one of these for his tank, also happy with it.

Edit: and this one is nearly noisless i found.

It probably is a translation error from the manufacturer. If you have ever read their manuals, it can get pretty funny with the translations. I would recommend looking for something that has a 20 gph rate max for a tank that small. Perhaps a HOB would be better. My smallest tank of all time was a 5 and I ran this on it. http://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-20-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FVG/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1458025569&sr=1-1&keywords=aquaclear+20 . Hope this might give you an idea!

Hey this isn't. ...THE bamabass is it ?

Question though I just started a 10g it's been running for about a week initially I put the start zyme in it, yesterday I upgraded to a new filter and today my buddy gave me a 16oz bottle of his trap water ( cant remember the correct terminology for it ) all dark brown good nutrients... he says I can start adding afew fish pretty much the next day since my filter has the good good in it now lol is that true or should I wait

New filter
AquaClear 20 Power Filter - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000260FVG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YO55Bb855P1A0

Aqua Clear - Fish Tank Filter - 5 to 20 Gallons - 110v https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000260FVG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dJ6YCbM4JBRTJ

Thanks for all the information. I will look for an external canister. You're right about it being a hang-on-back filter, for the record it's this one: https://www.amazon.ca/AquaClear-20-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FVG

A tetra whisper pump is near silent, taking out the worries about sound. High gas exchange is very, very important in an aquarium, it vents toxic gasses and adds oxygen into the tank. Not having a good method of airation is going to harm the fish/decrease their lifespan. Ideally you should only take 25% out between vaccuming and water changes combined, usually doing both at the same time once a week to not disturb the bacteria in the gravel too badly. Unfortunately bio wheels are a gimmick with only margianally better performance than normal cartridge based filters, and are also more of a new fishkeeper trap than anything, why you don't see experienced fishkeepers use them.

Imo an aquaclear a size up from your tank size (eg 10 gal tank get an aq 20) is the best option for a beginner, and has the best price to performance ratio https://www.amazon.com/Aqua-Clear-Power-Filter-AquaClear/dp/B000260FVG?keywords=aquaclear%2Bfilter&qid=1535933485&sr=8-3&ref=mp_s_a_1_3&th=1&psc=1 , unless you want to go into sponge filters, which are perfectly fine if properly sized (size up) and the bio load for the tank is low.

And for this filter, would I also need an air pump? I know I sound incompetent but I promise I'm not!!! Just trying to cover all my bases!

​

https://www.amazon.com/Aqua-Clear-Power-Filter-AquaClear/dp/B000260FVG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1536260246&sr=8-2&keywords=aquaclear%2Bfilter&th=1

Sand is pretty easy tbh. You shouldn’t have to worry about it blowing around, a betta tank shouldn’t have that strong of a flow. Sponge filter is the easiest option. If you want a HOB filter, put foam around the intake for a [mechanical prefilter and betta fin guard](LTWHOME Pre-Filter Sponge/Foam Set For Fluval Edge Aquarium (Pack Of 12) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J5Z44OE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_aIsNBbGW56V4D)
Just get a HOB rated at 10g or less and that has adjustable flow so you can turn it down. [Aquaclear](Aqua Clear 20 Power Filter - 110 V, UL Listed (Includes AquaClear 20 Carbon, AquaClear 20 Foam & AquaClear 20 BioMax) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000260FVG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RKsNBbY81XP7A) and [Azoo Mignon 150 or 360](Azoo Mignon Filter 360 Aquarium Power Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LLJ8OFW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BOsNBbVM2B6ZN)

First you want an aquarium. I suggest a 20 gal (long if possible). Craigslist.com can be a good resource. I managed to find a good deal on a pair of 30 gal tanks. I paid $40 for the pair so hopefully you can find a 20 gallon for close to $20. It takes some patience waiting for a deal like that to pop up. You likely will end up spending closer to $40 for a 20 gallon.

You don't need a heater right away but you can pick up a 100watt heater for $10 on Amazon.

Next you'll want filter. I suggest a "Hang On Back" filter. This one is about $23.

So my estimate puts you near $75. Put the rest of your budget towards lights, water test kits, substrate, plants, and fish.

I'm using the
Tetra Whisper PF10 Filter and it's absolutely silent.

I was recommended this AquaClear one also! In hindsight, the clear would have looked a lot better.

Oh, by all means if you can afford it then it is the right choice. I would buy it too haha.

About the filter, I think you should get an aquaclear 20 instead of the whisper http://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-20-Power-Filter-Includes/dp/B000260FVG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417926609&sr=8-1&keywords=aquaclear+20

As you can see, it has a higher flow rate and a lot more mechanical as well as biological filtration. You don't have to buy and replace filter cartridges.

link

AquaClears are some of the nicest HOB filters. They don't use filter pads, but are set up more like a canister filter. Adjustable flow, so you can slow it down if it's too much.

Edit: Just my preference. I tried one of those internal filters, but I didn't like having it take up space in my already small tank.

Setting up a saltwater aquarium is going to depend primarily on your budget and your space. These things will dictate what sort of filtration methodology you have to use. Filtration is the most important part of your aquarium! It comes in many different flavours, but the big three are biological, mechanical, and chemical. Your 'filtration method' is determined by how heavily you lean on each of these aspects. There are a bunch of different schools of thought and I would recommend reading up on as many of them as possible. Here is an excellent short article to get you started.

New tanks need to establish beneficial bacterial communities in order to process the waste being produced by your fish. In the jargon, this is called 'cycling', in reference to the nitrogen cycle. You can find more information on that in the sidebar (to the right) here on /r/Aquariums. Establishing this bacterial community ('cycling the tank') is crucial before you add any animals to the tank in order to avoid harm. It takes some time (up to several weeks or more) so be warned that patience is a virtue when it comes to aquariums.

To oversimplify it, starting a saltwater tank is as simple as putting sand and live rock in saltwater and letting it cycle. But why it's that simple is extremely complicated. I would suggest reading more on aquarium filtration and go from there, then throw some more questions at us. For homework! Look at the components sold in a standard commercial hang-on filter and figure out what each one is doing.

I'm going to look into getting a prefilter sponge for the one i have and maybe order this filter as i found it highly recommended an a few other sites. Figure he could live with the kit one for a few days. Think I may get at least 1 live plant as well, being a 5 gallon I dont have much room to work with, so it shouldnt be too hard to manage, Thanks!

I think you did okay, but I personally just rinse a tank with diluted bleach, thoroughly rinse then air dry the tank upside down in a dry place for over 24 hours. This ensures all the bleach has fully evaporated before I use it. If it had calcium build up, I'd use vinegar, baking soda and pillow stuffing to scrub it off (harder stains I usually get a paint scraper to get off and get the smaller stains with my homemade cleaner).

Aquaclear filter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000260FVG/ref=twister_B00MO35VD2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I love these filters. They're beginner friendly, decent price and adjustable flow-- my betta loves his. I recommend just using pillow stuffing (ensure it's not the kind that is fire proof since that has harmful chemicals). Give it monthly, harsh shakes in old filter water to get junk out and put it back in the filter to keep nitrates down in your filter (of course along with weekly water changes). I picked up the pillow stuffing trick from a guy in the hobby for over 40 years. I've been using pillow stuffing for a few months and it's been going great so far :D

I was hoping Ny bc I would've taken him from you and put him in my hospital tank.

A vase is not a tank and a filter is recommended bc a tank needs to be cycled.Cycling is when it can sustain the nitrogen cycle using bacteria that lives inside your tank and your filter. Having a suitable tank, gravel and filter allows the tank to provide a stable environment for your fish.

The setup I recommend is
a 5.5 gallon tank from your local petstore. Petsmart or petco usually has them. If you can get a bigger one then I would suggest that.

The filter i recommend is either an aqua clear hang on back filter like this http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000260FVG/ref=twister_B00MO35VD2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
or a Im pretty fond of these filters also, http://www.amazon.com/Penn-Cascade-Internal-Filter-Aquariums/dp/B0002DJLEQ/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1450977072&sr=8-7&keywords=penn+plax
Get a filter that is rated for a tank 1-2 times the size of the tank you would purchase.

I can't recommend a low cost heater but I do recommend you get one and also a thermometer.

Pick up a bag of gravel and maybe a little decorative house also for your fish to hang around and swim in. Providing a stimulating environment for your fish will combat him being "lazy."

I also suggest you read up on the nitrogen cycle and pick up a test kit so the next time you have an issue with your fish, you can tell anyone what the ammonia, nitrate or nitrite levels are in the tank. You can find out what those are from reading about the nitrogen cycle. I suggest this http://www.amazon.com/API-Freshwater-Master-Test-Kit/dp/B000255NCI/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1450977370&sr=1-1&keywords=aquarium+test+kit

Read more about properly taking care of you betta and you will see less of these problems and have happier fish. Feel free to ask any questions

The cheapest way to do things is much more reliant on Amazon than Petsmart or Petco.

Substrate: Pool Filter Sand from a pool supply store. You can get 20-40lbs of this for under $10 compared to roughly $1 for 1lb that pet store gravel/sand costs. It's also prewashed, which is nice. You can go with a special planted substrate, but for the most part you can get the same benefits by just dosing ferts or using root tabs. The one exception is if you are willing to spend more to get a clay based substrate like ADA Aquasoil or Fluval Stratum, which are much more expensive (the cheap alternative to that is to use the Walstad method of using dirt on the bottom and capping it with sand). A sand layer should be about 3" max. More than that and you could start developing anaerobic pockets.

Filtration: Air Pump Sponge Filters. I'd recommend getting two of these and placing one on each side but you can get by with one. I recommend the Walmart Aqua Culture 60 Gallon Air Pump to run them. It only costs $11 and surprisingly this Wal-Mart brand pump is the quietest air pump I've ever used -- much quieter than anything else I've tried. However you can go with any air pump you can find at Petco or Petsmart but they will cost more. You can rinse sponge filters out with old aquarium water when you do a water change, which saves you money in the long run vs. buying cartridges for a hang-on-back box style filter. However if you want to go with a box filter, I'd recommend AquaClear. They may be available at Petco or Petsmart, but likely at a higher price than amazon.

Heater: Aquatop Heaters from Amazon. For a 10G you only need the 50W, but for only $1.50 more you might as well get the 200W version so that if you ever upgrade you don't have to buy another. Since this line of heater has adjustable temperature and will turn off when the water is heated, it doesn't matter if you overbuy on heating. You can get other brands at Petco or Petsmart, but you'll probably be paying more for less.

Lighting: If you are going low tech, you should probably just buy a tank that comes with a hood and light (but avoid the full kit that comes filter/heater/etc. because you can get all of that cheaper separately). Hoods with matching lighting are really hard to get after the fact. If you go high tech, this sort of lighting is inadequate so you'd want to go a different route.

wow that looks so clean! you might have just changed my mind lol
do you have any filters or lights in mind to go with it? amazon recommends https://www.amazon.com/Finnex-FugeRay-Aquarium-Moonlights-Cliplight/dp/B00LIL7YPE/ref=pd_bxgy_121_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00LIL7YPE&pd_rd_r=2KZ9F8JF4YE057DP8TPJ&pd_rd_w=eCyLL&pd_rd_wg=se06G&psc=1&refRID=2KZ9F8JF4YE057DP8TPJ and https://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-20-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FVG/ref=pd_bxgy_121_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000260FVG&pd_rd_r=2KZ9F8JF4YE057DP8TPJ&pd_rd_w=eCyLL&pd_rd_wg=se06G&psc=1&refRID=2KZ9F8JF4YE057DP8TPJ

check out the aqua clear 20.

great small filter, quiet as ever, only 20$ and the cost to replace the media every once in a while is super cheap. usually i just rinse mine off in tank water.

As some others have said, that plant is Anubias. That hairy stuff is algae and the brown crud looks like diatoms which is common in new tanks. The "suckerfish" (on the underside of that leaf) you have looks to be some sort of plecostomas which don't eat really anything but certain types of green algae. They aren't algae scrubbers like the old school of thought suggests. I would suggest getting some nerite snails. They cannot breed in fresh water so you won't have explosion of them.

Also, as others have said, get a timer and start keeping your lights on a schedule. Start at 8 hours on and the rest off. You can set it to be whenever you like if you want to enjoy it so you could start it at Noon and push it to 8 pm or however you like. That will help the plants "out compete" the algae.

Finally, get a filter. I have an Aquaclear filter with a pre-filter sponge to keep shrimp out of it. This will also help disturb the surface to keep surface bacteria managed and increase gas exchange at the surface ensuring you have enough oxygen.

https://www.amazon.com/Aqua-Clear-Fish-Filter-Gallons/dp/B000260FVG/ref=sr_1_13?keywords=10+gal+filter&qid=1574022869&sr=8-13

this is mine works great, little on the pricier side, can get them as cheap as 10 bucks on amazon. any 10 gallon filter really. walstad is an awesome concept, just tricky getting to a stable spot

I don't know the type of filter, it came in this kit. Any reccomendations would be appreciated. Kairus00 recommended this

I'll have to let my girlfriend know I was right in regards to the plant. She'll looove that. ;)

And yes, Walmart is as bad as you hear, I do try to avoid it. Be happy you don't have them, they're a black hole on many levels.

Poor guy, I feel bad. At least I didn't kill him before I found out what I was doing wrong.

I've got one of these and it's really quiet. There is a faint hum but it's right next to my bed and I sleep no problem.

I've had a Sunsun (this one) on one of my tanks for almost two years now and have never had any issues with it.

> Fluval Fx4

Wow! That was a steal at $150. And the tank leak sucks...

I'll probably get this one It seems to have pretty good reviews and is at a great price point

I got this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWV4R8I
I adjusted the flow down to about 25% of full power but I think I'll bring it up a little bit.

My external SunSun canister was $80 and has UV. I have an additional Marineland internal canister with a 1 micron “polishing” filter.

Sunsun Hw304B 525GPH Pro Canister Filter Kit with 9-watt UV Sterilizer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MH37484/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cY4kDbQB4DE2B

Marineland Magnum Polishing Internal Canister Filter (ML90770) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C8PH0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zY4kDbVHPNC4J

Would this work for 125g? I see that it's for a 150g. The tank is not stocked yet and I am good with weekly water changes. Do you have any other recommendations?

I've been researching canisters all morning and I think if I go ahead and purchase this one it should work for my tank and it's in my price range right now. Does this look to be ok, the reviews seem good?

I'll probably hold off on purchasing the stand still though, I'd like to get one of the one with storage under that looks like it will run my about $200.

I use the SunSun brand and have never had anything bad to say about them. They work really well. I use lava rock and pillow stuffing as media along with my carbon.

Here is a link for the 525GPH sunsun.

SUNSUN 304B

I use this one for two different 55gallon aquariums and it works great.

I bought this the other day (10 gal):

https://www.aqueon.com/products/aquarium-starter-kits/ascent-frameless-led-kits

I really love the way it looks. The light is fine for low/medium plants and the filter is fine too although the flow is non-adjustable. I actually swapped it out for this little guy with adjustable flow since I'll have a Betta in here and they don't really like current.

The tank looks really cool in person - way better than the typical aquarium w/ black plastic lid and HOB filter.

I wondered the same when I was setting up my 125. Due to my limited budget, I went with one canister. SunSun HW304B from Amazon. It's been great with plenty of flow throughout the tank.

I have this one on my 5 gallon. The pump is pretty weak and doesn't run anywhere close to the gph it's advertised as, but that's good for a 5 gallon. And it's dirt cheap and comes with decent media. I'm happy with it.

I have the 60: https://www.amazon.com/AZOO-AZ13097-Mignon-Filter-60/dp/B005VEWCMO

The 150 is also good.

The only reason I went with the 60 is because it's very small, and there is little bioload in the tank it's on.

Sunsun makes smaller rated canisters but they are still bigger than a HOB. This is a small one https://www.amazon.com/TechnToy-HW-603B-3-Stage-External-Canister/dp/B00CC6SCJQ or https://www.amazon.com/SunSun-Hw302-264GPH-Canister-Filter/dp/B00MGX7JXA/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1469731069&sr=1-1&keywords=sunsun+canister+filter

Also like snowmunkey said, aquaclear HOB are also an excellent choice.

This one? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CC6SCJQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_MLYjzbTJ3RE5Y

If not, can you link me the correct one?

What's the best solution for protecting the shrimp from getting stuck in the filter?

Tech'n'Toy SunSun HW-603B 106 GPH 3-Stage External Canister Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CC6SCJQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_V0d0Cb8JN7CTV

That does make sense maybe they were talking as a regular pump for I don’t know how big of a tank.

It would be this one?
Tech'n'Toy SunSun HW-603B 106 GPH 3-Stage External Canister Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CC6SCJQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3qy8CbXXXB22H

I’m running the sun sun 603B

Tech'n'Toy SunSun HW-603B 106 GPH... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CC6SCJQ?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

It seems to work pretty well, i don’t have any fish in yet since i did a complete rescape and it’s still cycling

SunSun Canister filters off Amazon are your friend!!!

Check out this link- https://www.amazon.com/TechnToy-HW-603B-3-Stage-External-Canister/dp/B00CC6SCJQ

That filter will give you way more than enough circulation. Highly recommend it!

Actually, I've had the opposite experience... My filters are so quiet I get nervous. Now I keep duckweed just so I can see the surface agitation.

ETA: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AWV4R8I/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1539876184&sr=8-7&keywords=aqueon+quietflow+10

If the links are misbehaving, I use Aqueon Quietflow canister filters.

• GLA Atomic CO2 Bubble Counter - with Integrated Check Valve
  
• GLA Atomic CO2 Diffuser - Inline - 12/16mm
  
• TRANSPARENT GREEN CO2 RESISTANT TUBING
  
• SunSun HW-603B External Canister Filter
  
• Co2 Omnibus Regulator
  
• Hydra Aquatic CO2 Paintball Adapter
  
• Finnex Electronic Controller Aquarium Titanium Tube with Heater Guard
  
• NICREW LED Aquarium Light
  
  
  
  Here's a list of all the equipment for the tank. The paintball tank I bought from my local military surplus/paintball shop. Refills are $6. It's a pretty simple setup. I chose the inline diffuser to reduce clutter inside the tank. Plus, the co2 is absorbed into the water by the time it hits the tank. Here's a current (as of today) pic of 1 months growth http://i.imgur.com/KvyECwm.jpg

This is what i use for my 10 gallon, i have sponge/ceramics and purigen in the order and the tanks has been pretty spotless. http://www.amazon.com/SunSun-HW-603-Multi-Stage-Canister-Filter/dp/B00CC6SCJQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411240045&sr=8-1&keywords=sunsun+603

This is the one I use:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AWV4R8I/ref=sxts_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499894440&sr=1&th=1&psc=1

This is the sponge I put over the return:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01CDFU9SW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1499894519&sr=8-3&keywords=fluval+sponge

You could always go for something like this. I am running this alongside my 2 2215s. Works just fine. No leaks. If you are on a budget but need an ok canister I would recommend the sunsuns.

Yeah I returned the filter today, ended up getting this one instead. So far its a lot better; low flow, dead quiet, and my betta has been right up against it without any problems so I think it should be fine.

Here's the exact one I have on my 20 gallon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MGX7JXA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have an aquarium chiller connected to it as well.

Ok thank you so something like this filter would do the job? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MGX7JXA/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687742&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00892EN22&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=088S0GBKCWZBZKASD7T0

This canister filter is discontinued. For this reason I cannot find a price on it. To be honest i would buy a new canister filter for the 15 dollars extra. People here recommend sunsun usually. This one comes with its own media http://www.amazon.com/SunSun-Hw302-264GPH-Canister-Filter/product-reviews/B00MGX7JXA/ref=cm_cr_dp_qt_hist_one?ie=UTF8&filterByStar=one_star&showViewpoints=0
but watch a video on how to set it up. Directions are bad

I recommend upgrading your filter. Those whisper filters are pretty crappy IMO mostly due to the cartridge system they use. Pretty much everyone loves aquaclear filters and I'm a fan of my C2.

Unless your Ph is crazy high (8+) I wouldn't mess with it. A stable Ph is more important than a "proper" Ph in most cases.

Good Luck!

It's this one

I would just get something small like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000260FVG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1465773660&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=aquaclear+20&dpPl=1&dpID=41Rr1kpTVOL&ref=plSrch

Aquarium light
Aquarium heater
Aquarium filter
Aquarium lid
Water Conditioner
Water test kit
And then you can get the aquarium (10g) at Petco
I strongly recommend live plants: Java ferns, anubius, Marimo Moss Balls, bacopa, cryptocoryne, Valisnaria, hygrophila, easy low light plants. Malaysian, Spider (not sharp), Mopani, and manzanita are all good types of drift wood for a betta aquariums

TL;DR: For a betta you need to upgrade your setup to have a filter, and a minimum 5 gallon tank but preferably 10 gallon. I highly recommend you buy [this filter] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000260FVG/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1500346286&sr=8-5&keywords=fluval%2Bfilter&th=1&psc=1).

1 gallon is not okay for any fish. Maybe plants. You need to read up about the nitrogen cycle, and why cycling an aquarium is necessary in order to keep water quality good. The water will build up good bacteria to counter the bad bacteria. But if you're doing 100% water changes, you are physically preventing your tank from cycling and building up any good bacteria. You really need a bigger tank (at least 5 gal but preferably 10), and you need a filter! The constant movement of the water is the filters main function, and that's what allows for good bacteria to build up. I'm sure your water parameters weren't 0/0/0 before the water change. Maybe that's what it reads after the water change, but next time check your parameters before the water change because I guarantee you that you have ammonia building up.

It's a myth that betta's are completely fine without a filter or a normal size tank. They will live a much longer life if you take better care of them. The myth comes from the fact that Betta's have an organ that other fish don't, which allows them to breathe oxygen by coming up to the surface and not having to depend on their gills alone for oxygen. This allows them to be able to tolerate worse quality water, but that doesn't mean you should subject them to worse quality water throughout the course of their life! Please improve your setup. At the absolute minimum: never do 100% water changes, 80% should be the absolute max used only for emergencies, buy a filter and you should be able to get by with 50% water changes until your tank is cycled, at which point you should aim to get down to 10-20% water changes once a week, and then down to 10-20% to once every other week.

That's just the tank, though - the filter, light, and heater are what's gonna eat up your budget.

Here's the heater I have for my 5-gallons, both going strong for two years now.

This is the filter I plan on getting for my 10-gallon although I am not sure how rough that current will be on a betta yet.

And this is the light I will get, but this is a really nice light for a low-tech (no injected co2), low-light planted tank. There are plenty of good, cheaper lights out there.

I have this aquaclear filter. When I get RCS, should I use this trick? Or is there not much of a danger of them getting in such a small filter?

While we're talking about aquaclear fiters, (sorry to hijack a bit)

How often do I need to replace the filter media? The official instructions say basically once a month or so, that seems a bit often to me.

Thanks for replying, I am not so sure how or where to put another filter to slow the flow down. https://www.amazon.com/Whisper-Tank-Filter-10i-BioScrubber/dp/B0002DHYF4 that is my filter, I have it about a half inch above surface level and it makes a tiny waterfall. Should I raise it or lower it? I really don't want to stress or hurt the frogs, especially the little guy. Big dude doesn't seem to care much he just avoids those pockets of water current

Oh so cute. Well all you need is a 5-10 gallon tank. There is a sale going on now with either petsmart or petco where you can get $1 per gallon. After that you need a filter. If you get a 5 or 10 gallon tank you can get a nice hang of the back filter for cheap. I got this one for my betta when I was holding him in a 2.5 gallon before putting him in a bigger tank. It needs an air pump to work though I got a cheapo and it works great and is almost unnoticeable.. Spend a little more on a heater though because I got a cheap betta heater and it broke somehow and the heater itself started melting and I thougth it was going to explode. The one I use now is hyador.

I also got him that leaf hammock for him to sleep on. For food I bought frozen blood worms of the hikari brand. This will last a long long time it comes with a bunch of frozen cubes each cube has like a hundred worms. So I cut up the cube and keep a portion in a medicine cup. I add tank water to the medicine cup and the portion melts and i use a pippete to feed the worms. And you feed it to him 1 - 3 times a week. The rest I got pellets. The brand was omega something in a blue container. I drop those pellets in a small medicine cup squirt with water let em soak for a minute then drop them in his tank.

Also !! You need a water conditioner I use seachem prime. It makes tap water safe for your fish, normally it has chlorine and other chemicals to make it safe for humans but those chemicals will hurt fish. Prime helps make it safe for fish to breathe and prime has a slime coat bonus.

I think an estimate on how much you will spend for him is around 60-70$ and he will last a while with clean water, good food, and good maintenance.

To make feeding and dosing prime easier. Get a cheap plastic pipette and glass dropper. I tend to spill things when measuring by the cap so the glass dropper is easier to dose prime. The plastic pipette is used to soak and feed the pellets and blood worms.

It would. Bit for so etching much larger. That's a 45 gallon tank filter. One like this http://www.amazon.com/Tetra-25846-Whisper-BioScrubber-3-Gallon/dp/B000HHQ712/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404539713&sr=8-1&keywords=3+gallon+fish+tank+filter

or this

http://www.amazon.com/Tetra-25816-Whisper-BioScrubber-10-Gallon/dp/B0002DHYF4/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1404539774&sr=8-8&keywords=tetra+whisper+filter

would do the trick. The second is for a 3 to 5 gallon, the first is up to 3 gallon. You can get decent fish tank kits that come with a light and filter for around 20 to 30$ at pet smart, but that doesn't include a heater.


Something like this is a decent setup, and as it's a 5 gallon, it could actually be divided to house both fish. All you would really need at that point is a heater, and water dechlorinator.

http://www.amazon.com/Tetra-29003-Crescent-Aquarium-5-Gallon/dp/B00324X5L2/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404540227&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=tetra+3+gallon+crescent

This was the other filter I was debating on, I'd love to hear your thoughts.

https://www.amazon.com/Whisper-Tank-Filter-10i-BioScrubber/dp/B0002DHYF4/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=tetra+whisper+10i&qid=1568807571&s=gateway&sr=8-3

If you want to make it all much easier, just get the ten gallon tank and then get him to squeeze his filter sponge into your filter. If you do that and wait a few weeks you should be ready to rock. You could even add the fish right away if you can commit to testing the water every day. You only need two things for testing the water.

5-in-1 strips

And ammonia strips

And one thing to fix it.

Basically, the squeeze from your friends tank will give you the bacteria you need. Putting a fish in will give those bacteria something to eat (fish poop breaking down) until the bacteria colony is fully established. pH isn't a real issue with bettas as long as it stays roughly the same.

You just have to use both test strips every day, if anything spikes (nitrites will spike right before you are done) then change the water 30% and replace it with new water treated with that dechlorinator. A couple weeks in, all of the sudden you won't be getting any ammonia, you will have no nitrites, and you will have just a little nitrate meaning you are done. From then on just test and replace a gallon of water per week (always using dechlorinator).

The heater is the easiest thing! Most are set up to automatically sit at 78 degrees which is perfect for a betta. They like still water so if you can, grab an internal filter like the Whisper 10i. It moves the water less.

I'm fairly new at this, so if anything up there is inaccurate someone please chime in!

http://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Whisper-In-Tank-BioScrubber-10-Gallon/dp/B0002DHYF4/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1374196011&sr=1-4&keywords=10+gallon+filter

Here ya go.

40 bucks for the filter/heater/Hood.


Also make sure you get some water conditioner.

Oh and if you are doing plants you should get some fluorescent bulbs.

Right now the ammonia is down to 1 ppm- maybe a little over 1 but not as high as 2. That's a great sign.

Maybe I do need a second filter. I'm using this one:

MarineLand Penguin Power Filter, 50 to 70-Gallon, 350 GPH https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009IMDQM/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_PizLBb1DFEXS2

I use this one for my one res. Works pretty well in a 20 gal.

Marineland Penguin Power Filter, 50 to 70-Gallon, 350 GPH https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009IMDQM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BK.PybG26P2C1

I'll keep an eye on my parameters (as always), but I also have a Penguin 350 that I got with my tank that hasn't been used yet.


Though, I have been thinking of upgrading to a canister.

K man, I got the Marineland penguin 350. I'm about as frugal as they come. I got 5 cories, a bristlenose pleco, 8 cherry barbs, 8 cardinal tetras, 8 Rummy nose tetras, and an apisto, and it's been great.

Marineland Penguin Power Filter, 50 to 70-Gallon, 350 GPH https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009IMDQM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_g3k6Cb1M3QRTZ

Just gotta make sure your water is filled up pretty high. Then it's quiet.

not sure where you're getting your prices. I got two decently reviewed powerheads for $14, a skimmer for $100, $40 for 10lbs of live rock and another $60 for 20lbs of non-live rock.
And then i got your basic run of the mill filter for $30

Got pretty much all of this on amazon. I'm sure the local fish shops would charge up the a$$ for this stuff... Do you think I need any other filtering other than what i'm linking to below?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IMDQM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Coralife-05271-Super-Skimmer-65-Gallon/dp/B000BJNL6A/ref=sr_1_22?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1480323303&sr=1-22&keywords=saltwater+sump

I have a Penguin 350 filling in on a 55 gallon tank with a Red-ear slider in it, since my canister bit the dust about a week ago. It's pretty old, but it's a workhorse. It really moves a considerable amount of water, and keeps the turtle tank pretty clean which is impressive because even one turtle generates substantially more waste than a whole aquarium of fish.

I was actually considering buying another Penguin 350 filter just to have on hand since Amazon dropped the price down this week...

Several questions about my 55(ish) gallon freshwater tank:

1. I have a marineland filter ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IMDQM). Right now, it is just using the intake it came with. I am considering getting an under-gravel filter (I was thinking this one? https://www.amazon.com/Undergravel-Filteration-Bottom-Circular-Aquarium/dp/B00ZUIRGOU ) Would it be possible to connect that setup to my current filter? How would I do that?
   
2. So when I replace the filter, I would probably completely overhaul the tank. I currently only have 2 5 gallon buckets; I was thinking that I'd fill those from the existing water and put the fish (I have about 20 guppies, tetras, and other small community fish) into one of the buckets. Would it be safe to have those fish in that bucket for 2-3 days while I let the temperature adjust with the new water? And would adding the 10 gallons of old water to 45 gallons of new (RO filtered) water with some bacteria starter and conditioner be OK?
   
3. I plan to wash the gravel and decorations, clean the tank, rearrange the plants, put in the under-gravel filter, and better position the air stone (a 12 inch bar). Is there anything else I should consider doing at this time?
   
   Note: my biggest problems right now are filthy gravel and a high alkaline and PH that I can't lower.

>cheap filter (no actual "filter" as that will undermine any treatment)


Sorry, not understanding that portion. And what do you mean the 'filter floss'? I have the filter pad in my sump followed by some live rock followed by my heavy duty filter that picks up any other type of debris. Are you just using a 'hang over the edge' type of filter? http://www.amazon.com/Marineland-Penguin-Power-Filter-70-Gallon/dp/B0009IMDQM/ref=sr_1_6?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1420570358&sr=1-6&keywords=aquarium+filter+media

I have one of these in my 2.5gal RCS tank, and it's UH MAAAY ZIIIING. Quiet, and if you take a pre filter sponge, cut it one one side, and wedge it under the outflow there will be almost no surface agitation, like this.

I also have this one and it's great too, but it's REALLY powerful despite it's size. You can put a sponge on the outflow to disperse it too though.

You can't get replacement products for that tank.. I had emailed the company about that a while back.

You could get one of these http://www.amazon.com/Hagen-Elite-Underwater-Filter-Listed/dp/B0009YD7D4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1371078787&sr=8-2&keywords=underwater+filter+for+aquarium

http://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-17772-Mini-Desktop-Aquarium/dp/B002FN3MEG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1371078873&sr=8-3&keywords=mini+bow+aquarium

Amazon has new ones on sale!

Do you have any cycled filter media ready for it?

Thank you for all the great info! I had a feeling the filter was garbage, my girlfriend and I actually bought a Elite Mini filter that is a sponge design (https://www.amazon.ca/Elite-Underwater-Mini-Filter-Listed/dp/B0009YD7D4) but we got really concerned that the flow is too high even on the lowest setting for our little Charles.

Do you have any opinions on it? How much flow is too much? We do not have any plants yet to disrupt the flow a bit in front of it and help him out/keep him calm

Neon tetras also like warm water 26C OR 75F so do bettas if you plan on getting one. you may need a heater. A betta or some shrimp and snails are the only thing that can live okay in a 2.5 gallon. Some people don't even like putting bettas in anything under 5gal, If you keep up on water changes and had a filter and a heater it would be okay in my opinion.

One of these filters would probably work okay:

http://www.amazon.com/Hagen-Elite-Underwater-Filter-Listed/dp/B0009YD7D4/ref=sr_1_25?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1411943533&sr=1-25&keywords=filter

http://www.amazon.com/JEBO-501-Hang--Aquarium-Filter/dp/B00ESWVCR6/ref=sr_1_11?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1411943600&sr=1-11&keywords=marina+filter

Thank you, and Gladly! They seem to both do the job well enough! :) no complaints yet.

Filter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009YD7D4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Heater: https://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-AQE06194-Heater-Aquarium-10-watt/dp/B009ETLY30/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1467064775&sr=8-3&keywords=aqueon+heater

I have the same Marina HOB. The air pump method was really noisy with super low flow for me. I ended up buying an Elite Mini Underwater Pump. It works like a charm, adjustable flow and is much quieter. Only $9.00 on Amazon and I found them at several of my local big box pet stores.

EDIT: I should clarify that I got the medium size HOB refugium/breeder box.

Try this for flow instead of air stone. https://www.amazon.com/Elite-Underwater-Mini-Filter-Listed/dp/B0009YD7D4

Give this little thing a go. I use it for my Shrimp Bowl and it's grand! The only suggestion I have is to put and elbow or some other kind of nozzle, like this, to direct the outflow up to ensure you little buddy doesn't get pushed around.

I'm going to make a price list off of memory....

All in $$$

API master test kit: 18 (confirmed)

10G tank: 15 (confirmed)

Lid: ~10 (Memory, it has a plastic strip in the back. Designed so you can cut off parts of it to make room for cords and/or filters, basically customizable to your hearts desire.

Filter: Whisper 3i, acceptable if you have a single betta in your tank: <10 (Comes with a small air pump. You will need something bigger if you want to maximize the potential bioload of your 10g. Refill cartriges will check out to be ~$1.50 apiece, and each lasts one month.)

: Side note: I like to use sponge filter for my Betta, in his planted tank. They provide adequate filtration, and a slow enough flow that the betta is not disturbed. I currently use this guy, as the double filter design allows me to clean half of it per water change, preventing a complete filter cycle reset. As a bonus, you don't have to buy cartridges for it; just swish the foam around in old tank water. Costs $5. Downside: Being a no-name filter, there's no "proper" way to calculate maximum bioload. You'll need to spend time monitoring parameters if you ever want to push the limits. Also, I use it in a PLANTED tank. Plants tend to cost a bunch of money, ~$5 for 2 depending on where you get them. But I find them worth it.

On that note: Plants: $20 (Optional.)

Seachem prime (Water conditioner): ~$5. The bottle has lasted me more than 6 months between 2 tanks, so it'll likely last you a full year.

Food: ~$2 per month. Varies depending on what you buy and how much you use. Expect an initial cost of ~$10.

Edit: Added: Substrate. Sure, you could get a bag of rocks for lotsa $$$ from petsmart or whatever. But, a tip I got from this subreddit, Black Diamond Blasting Sand. Apparently $10. And it's more than you'll need, so if you upgrade to a larger tank, you won't need to spend $$$ getting more substrate (in theory...) Just make sure to rinse it off somehow, before adding it to your tank.

Edit: Added: Lighting. Just use an old lamp. It is advised to change the bulb out with an aquarium-specific bulb, but it won't kill you to run with a household CFL bulb. You may need to fight algae though... use an old credit card or gift card as a cheap scraper, and consider adding 1 or 2 snails, such as nerite snails or mystery snails. Cheap at your LFS, or from your local breeder.

Total: Pretty sure there's an error... but, $65 $75. Assuming you spring for the $5 no-name filter (and not buying the whisper) and skimp out completely on plants. Of course, this is a very specific cost for a very specific tank setup of 1 fish.

Edit: Oh, I totally forgot substrate. Lemme check here.... Um.. gimme a sec.

Edit: Done! Though it should be noted, as you gain more experience, you tend to gain more items. For example, I bought a table just to set my aquarium on. $20 at my local thrift store. I should really have it set on a matt of some sort, so that it doesn't bend, and end up costing me a new aquarium. Another $10. I realized test tubes are fragile. A spare pack of 25 and a plastic test tube stand, $35. Various medications, small droppers to accurately adminsiter seachem prime, cheap disposable gloves for chemicals, lights, lamps, bulbs... it does add up. Bear in mind that $75 is a minimal setup, and it will likely end up costing you more. (Especially if you have to buy a stand... better hope you have a sturdy table & matt, or are able to build one yourself with exact tolerances!)

Edit: Oh my gosh. I forgot a heater. A necessity in ANY tropical aquarium. That's going to run you around $15-20 for a good one, you want one with an adjustable thermostat. They're more dependable, and of course, adjustable. Gonna need a thermometer with that too, though I've personally had trouble finding a reliable one. Some say my tank is 76 degrees, other say it's 80+. Personally, I use the fish's behavior as a sign. Make sure the fish is not gasping for air near the surface, and if they do, turn it down at least 2 degrees, closer to 4.

Tetra 3i

Whisper In-Tank Filter 3i for 1 - 3 gallon aquariums (25846) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HHQ712/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_T3VRybYRPEM1B

Depends what kind of hood you have on your 2.5 gallon. If I can't hang one on the outside I have used this http://www.amazon.com/Tetra-25846-Whisper-BioScrubber-3-Gallon/dp/B000HHQ712/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450762898&sr=8-1&keywords=2+gallon+filter

I have the first tank you posted, it works great! And also, you should consider putting some dwarf frogs in there (maximum two) but probably not any fish. You would need a bigger tank to add some fish!

here's a good tank heater:
http://www.amazon.com/Hydor-7-5w-Heater-Bettas-Bowls/dp/B006JVQ67K

you're also going to need a filter, even if the people at petco say you don't.

http://www.amazon.com/Tetra-25846-Whisper-BioScrubber-3-Gallon/dp/B000HHQ712/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1426271069&sr=1-1&keywords=1-3+gallon+filter

I got rid of the under gravel "filter" that came with the tank and installed this one instead, leaving out that stupid plastic tube that came with the tank.

With all of these resources you should have a super healthy happy betta!

I think I might get this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000HHQ712/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER and put pantyhose over the hole

If you choose to continue using the cartridges but have the ceramic rings in there as well, then you shouldn't need to worry about swapping in a new cartridge when the old one is falling apart because there will be enough beneficial bacteria on the ceramic rings that you won't ruin the cycle.

If you don't plan to keep the ceramic rings then the best option is a small secondary filter, one driven by an air pump is a great option like [this one] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000634IYU/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1498418773&sr=8-3&keywords=small+world+filter) or [this one] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000HHQ712/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498418909&sr=8-1&keywords=tetra+whisper+internal+power+filter+3i). This way you can alternate which filter you are cleaning.

And yes, always clean your filter media (whether it's a cartridge, sponge/foam, filter fiber, polishing pad, or the ceramic rings) in aquarium water. Best way to do that is remove some water for a water change and before you dump it rinse out the filter media in that container.

I'm using this thing.

It seems like the bubbles going up the clear shaft end up popping at the top of the filter. But it didn't used to be like that until I did a water change.

Another way is a way I figured out recently: Get a HOB filter. They look like this, and are usually pretty cheap for how well they work. Get some aquarium sponge, not kitchen sponge, and cut it in a circle. Then make two incisions in an X shape in the middle and slide it up the intake rod. That'll baffle your filter, and it's cheap. Here is how I did mine.

Im going to guess no, that doesn't mean 40gal, because they don't have a 40gal option I can find and why would they include 0?

Amazon has a comparison chart with dimensions, perhaps that will get you in the right direction.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000SP65N8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BnGxDbHK4ESVA

it's this one: https://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-QuietFlow-Aquarium-Power-Filters/dp/B000SP65N8

I have a 10 gallon tank that is about to be fishless (moving the only inhabitant to a different tank, a small Panda Garra that was in a transitional period to change its diet) and I want to try Shrimp.

• I seem to have a decent grasp on whats required except in regards to filtration. I currently own an Aqueon Quiet Flow 10 and a Topfin Internal Filter 10. If I added a sponge around the intake of the Aqueon, would that work for a shrimp tank or would that be too strong? The Topfin looks nice, but it also takes up space in the tank.
  
  
• I use the tank as a "hospital tank" for plants. I've got some clippings of Anubias, Amazon Sword, Hygrophila, and some Vallisneria. I could easily add some moss to the tank as I heard shrimp like moss.
  
  
• Substrated would probably be EcoComplete as that is what is in the tank right now.
  
  Would this work for some Cherry or Ghost Shrimp?

Alright that makes a bit more sense, I have an Aqueon Quiet Flow 10 found here http://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-06080-QuietFlow-Filter-100GPH/dp/B000SP65N8
I replaced the blue biological insert at the end with a peice of filter sponge to diffuse the current into the tank and create more biological filtratiion

Well, it does is a hard challenge for a beginner, but doing a properly carpeted nano-Aquascape (~20l <=> ~5g <=> ~2.0 × 10^-2 m^3) with DIY CO2 and a small sponge filter is doable in <150$

A quick, small suggestion:

Tank, ~13l <=> 3.4g, 40$

Soil, 20$

Light, 40$

stones, 25$

Filter, 10$,


1 pot Monte carlo or some other easy carpet plant at your lfs: 8€

We‘re left with 7$ for ~4 RCS, I guess.

I assumed you construct you DIY CO2 from an old bottle with sugar and yeast, so 0$ effetivly.

For cycling and food some free samples of fish food does the job. When food rots it emits ammonia, that could be used for cycling.

So here we go, every thing ready for a nice iwagumi-aquascape. If you do well, it might looks like this (That Tank has HC as carpet, but Monte carlo looks similar)!

Well, if you‘re willing to put up a dozens of hours on studying to to properly keep a planted tank.

edit: Wrong link for tank, this was the one I mistakenly linked to. Still a nice, small tank, tho. Also some additions for clearance.

Hello! I love bettas! They are awesome fish to upkeep! They also have the most interesting personalities! (I swear the one I have in my bedroom stares at me sometimes when he's extra hungry)

1. Bettas like pretty normal temperatures (76-82ºF/24-27ºC), but with a 10G you will need a heater. When you go look at filters you will see that the size you get depends on your tank, so you will get a 10 gallon filter. I suggest an Aqueon, you can't go wrong with that.
   
2. Try something this heater, it has a thermostat so you have more control. You can find a cheap thermometer at the pet store that will suction to the side. I have my bettas in a 5 gallon and they do rather well.
   
3. Do you want live plants? That's a whole other level of tank. It's fun and challenging sometimes. Java Ferns, anubias, marimo balls and java moss.
   
4. Bettas love themselves and playing, I'd avoid mirrors though that could stress them out from trying to protect their territory from themselves. You can get a betta hammock for it to nap in, a snail for it to flare up at every once and a while, I even put ghost shrimp in the tank for mine, and when one dies he plays with it and eats it (circle of life)
   
5. I've gotten all mine at Petco.
   
6. The substrate depends on if you want to plant your tank.
   
7. Yes yes yes yes yes yes!
   
8. Here's this easy guide if you want to read it

So just to make sure I am getting this. You are saying that fishless cycling should be keeping the tank at 2-4 ppm (what is ppm?) ammonia for 24 hours. So basically I'll add 2-4 ppm(s) of 10% ammonia (which I find by doing the shake test, if it bubbles it's good if it doesn't bubble it's not, correct?) and after 24 hours if the tank doesn't read 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites, and 0 nitrates I should put another 2-4 ppm(s) in? Also, I purchased [this] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000SP65N8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) filter and I now see that it has carbon in it. Should I send it back and get a new one? If yes what do you suggest? Also, when buying pebbles from a bag, should I soak those like people soak drift wood to clean them or are they good to go right into the tank? Sorry for all the questions I just keep thinking of them :P.

Scrub the algae from glass,

Do a 50% water change,

and slap this bad boy on:


AA Aquarium Green Killing Machine 9 Watt | Internal UV Sterilizer System with Power Head | Kills Algae, Bacteria, and Waterborne Pathogens | Easy, Submersible Installation https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001KP9B2W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cZTADbPAPNRC8


It will turn ur water crystal clear in 4 days. Thank me later

http://www.amazon.com/Green-Killing-Machine-Internal-Sterilizer/dp/B001KP9B2W

If a black out and water changes didn't help, this is a sure fire way to solve it

Here's a UV Sterilizer on Amazon for $40. I don't know anything about this particular product. Shop around, check out reviews and keep your tank size AND future proofing in mind if you decide to go this route.

I have never even heard of Hygrozyme. I have one of these on the way.

http://www.amazon.com/Green-Killing-Machine-Internal-Sterilizer/dp/B001KP9B2W

UV Sterilizer, Now I know I am going to hear a bunch of "your killing beneficial bacteria" people.

AA Aquarium Green Killing Machine 9W | UV Sterilizer, Internal Tank Cleaning System with Power Head | Algae, Bacteria, Yeast Water Filter | Easy, Submersible Installation https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001KP9B2W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9BhaBb0RGP9XA

EDIT: was replying to two threads and got them mixed. For a filter for a 5 gallon tank you'll want a Finnex
Or Marina S10

Ha! I actually already ordered that exact light a few days ago. I've been debating what filter to get, I was thinking something like this.

I have this filter https://www.amazon.com/Marina-A285-S10-Power-Filter/dp/B0032G8TPW

I have one plant in there, I can't remember what it is I think it's an Amazon sword or something, I remember getting the recommend kind for my type of tank. I have no idea how many I need or what to do for them though.

This is the sponge filter I currently have - SPonge

This is what I was looking to get (not at all sure) - FIlter

I forgot the exact name of the catfish but I believe they are Panda Catfish - or look very similar. This is 1 https://imgur.com/OkgmIJj the other one look exactly the same but about half again as big.

​

I hve 2 air pumps. 1 came with the 3 gallon tank set up I got on Amazon - see Here (just realized its a 3 gallon not a 5)

And then I purchased an air pump - Pump

And maybe I got the name wrong for the glofish, the pet store I could swore said neon tetra on the tank but I have those and definitely not that - https://imgur.com/8xNmjPi .EDIT- You can see them better in the OP picture if you click on it. Reason I ask is because my Betta was going after them the first day and they seemed SUPER chill. I haven't seen them try to nip at anything so far. Although its been 3 days. Also the catfish was in the tank w them so I figured they would get a long.

​

OK so the guy in the petstore told me i can have up to 20 fish in the 10 gallon. It's a private store not petco or petsmart/petland etc. Is that not the case then? I don't want to crowd my tank I was just planning on getting 2 more colors of the "Glofish" and that was probably going to be it.

​

Thanks!!

I've got a Marina Slim filter with 3 cartridges you are supposed to replace . I usually replace one every week. Should I just be rinsing it? It's not cheap.

It's about 25 clams on amazon. I added the ceramic diffuser for another 5.

Fluval charges quite a bit for the cartridges, but it takes a standard small co2 cartridge. They can be had for about a dollar a piece from other sellers on amazon.

He means this kit which uses these refill cartridges. There are other cartridges that you can get that will fit, they are bit smaller (16g), but a lot cheaper.

I had it, but never used it as when I put it in 2.5 gallon tank the chambers were huge and hit the substrate. Returned it and I'm doing DIY CO2. I halved everything from the recipe I use and used a large Gatorade bottle instead of a 2L.

probably referring to this, from personal experience I can tell you it's not worth it, the canister lasts maybe 3 weeks and the "diffuser" is very large and needs to be manually filled and closed. I've read some people have been able to adapt the system to co2 cylinder but that doesn't seem worth it to me either.

He is talking about this. Instead of using their overpriced proprietary cartridges you can use the 16 gram threaded cartridges meant for bicycle tire inflaters like these.

Thanks, I'll do a bit more research on CO2 before I pull the trigger. I'll probably end up buying this since it's pretty cheap and seems good for a beginner.

I have a pleco, and he does wonders. I already use rodi water. Currently I use this https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Mini-Pressurized-20g-CO2-Kit/dp/B0049RL3H4 but with a normal diffuser.. Looking to switch to an automatic gla regulated 5lb tank. How is gla's ferts different from flourish?

I have no complaints with mine! It's a small fluval co2 diffuser, I do take it out probably once a month to wipe it down but I haven't had any problems with it getting dirty. Here's the link to it on amazon:
Fluval Mini Pressurized 20g-CO2 Kit - 0.7 ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049RL3H4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ovVRybR1KD1TP

It’s the tiny little cheap Fluval system that uses disposable CO2 canisters. The refills they sell are a huge ripoff but you can use cycling pump refill cartridges and the threads are perfect. If bought in bulk, only 1 - 2.50$ per refill, lasts ~2 weeks.

https://www.amazon.ca/Fluval-Mini-Pressurized-20g-CO2-Kit/dp/B0049RL3H4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540362864&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=fluval+co2&dpPl=1&dpID=41GHMk-SUuL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/RedRock-Unthreaded-Gram-CO2-Cartridges/dp/B01IC4B34M/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1540363079&sr=8-2-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=threaded+co2+cartridges+16g&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Mini-Pressurized-20g-CO2-Kit/dp/B0049RL3H4 . Do you mean this kit?. also what adapter do you use?

Yeah, the only difference is that I used the Fluval diffuser. The glass diffuser is a lot more fragile - I dropped mine and it shattered. The Fluval one is a clunky piece of plastic, but holds up well. I've been re-evaluating my setup and will be replacing my DIY system with something more robust. Before I get into why, let me go share some advice with they DIY system...

 

First off, I'd also get a check valve. This will prevent siphoned water to back up into your CO2 setup. There are bubble counter/check valve combinations, even a diffuser/counter/check valve combo.

I haven't purchased these, so I can't comment on the quality. I will say - I purchase most if not all my supplies from Amazon with great success. I always buy the least expensive equipment. Most of it I can tell comes from China, but the quality is still pretty good - it gets the job done.

 

Second, the DIY setup is good, but does not last. The DIY kit you can get on Amazon is awesome - fits right on any standard soda bottle and has a nice needle valve and pressure gauge. My problem is durability, the setup I used to create the tank I have in the picture has recently broken down. The pressure gauge ripped off (because the tubing wore down) and although I tried to reattach and seal it, there was a slow leak that I wasn't willing to try and repatch. This is the second DIY kit I've broken, they both broke at the tubing piece that connects the gauge and the bottle cap. The main reason why it breaks down is because I shake the shit out of those bottles to stir up the Baking Soda and/or Citric Acid. I never really paid attention to the pressure gauge flopping to and fro, but now I realize that after enough "fros", the tubing worn down until it tore off. So if you stick with the DIY setup, try to either not shake it like a polaroid picture - or hold the pressure gauge steady.

 

The DIY system is cool because it makes you look like Walter White and also provides a "cheap" way of getting CO2 into your tank. All you have to buy after you have your setup is Baking Soda and Citric Acid. Baking Soda, I get at Costco for cheap and is so big it will last forever. Citric Acid - I haven't really looked in depth at purchasing local - but Amazon sells these 5lb bags for $15. I think it's the best deal on Amazon. I've only bought two bags total (I tried it in my 75 gallon tank - STUPIDEST IDEA EVER - but that was when I was really new to the hobby). I'd say for a 5-10 gallon tank, 1 5lb bag of Citric Acid should last you for maybeee a year - depends on your bubbles per second obviously.

 

One major con I have for the DIY system besides durability is that it's all manual. Sure - you can figure out how to rig up a solenoid of some sort and what not to get it on a timer- but seems like more trouble than it's worth for a DIY system. I let my CO2 run 24/7 which isn't ideal - but as the picture above clearly shows - it works. The other downside of it being manual is that baking soda surprisingly doesn't mix all the way with water. So when you introduce it to the citric acid solution (which mixes well with water) - the entire reaction may not occur until you shake it and baking soda then reaches the citric acid. Having to periodically check my CO2 system isn't terribly difficult, especially if you chose the DIY setup to save money - but sometimes if too much citric acid is transferred into the Baking Soda side - a fuckton of CO2 is created and now either is pumping into my tank or my soda bottles look like they're ready to explode. I will say - this has happened to me very rarely. I've seen my soda bottles build a lot of pressure before - but never bursted. So it's not the end of the world, just an unexpected inconvenience.

 

The other major con I have is refilling. Sure refilling doesn't take that long, empty the neutral baking soda/citric acid solution and add a the the right amounts of the new solutions in. But after doing it so many times - I'm kinda tired of it. I sometimes have extra soda bottles at the ready with the solutions and unscrew the old ones and pop in the new ones. Good plan, but still takes time and effort.

 

If you're careful not to shake the tubing of the pressure gauge, content with either having CO2 run 24/7 or manually turn it on and off AND are willing to periodically refill soda bottles, then I'd say give the DIY system a shot.

 

I chose the DIY setup when I first started the hobby and wasn't sure how dedicated I would be. Also - I didn't have a great paying job that would warrant me paying more for a convenient/foolproof CO2 setup.

 

Which brings me to what I plan on doing now. Now that I'm more interested in the hobby, I've decided to step my game up. For starters, I have a 75 gallon tank rigged up to a 20 lb CO2 tank that I have to refill every 3-4 months. I live by a small hydroponics shop that refills my CO2 tank for $20. I don't know if $20 is cheap, but the store is close, convenient and gets the job done. I also attached a $40 solenoid to it so I could connect it to a timer. This setup has been AWESOME. Very simple, and 100% reliable. I just take my empty 20 lb tank to the store and get it filled and plug it back into the solenoid.

 

Because my 20lb CO2 tank setup has been so successful in my 75 gallon, I've decided to do something similar for my 5 gallon. While a 20lb CO2 tank is complete overkill - there are pretty good alternatives out there. I've looked at using the Fluval 20G CO2 kit and using Threaded CO2 Bike Tire Cartridges. The diffuser that comes with the Fluval system is huge and I would never use it. So basically I'm paying $30 for a regulator that can't even easily attach to a solenoid. Also those 16g bike tire cartridges seem small and wasteful. So your costs are $30 for the setup and ~$30 for the CO2 cartridges - which who knows how long those last. The main benefit to this setup is that it's super small. This seems like a good setup for sure and was very close to going for it, but I've decided to go with something else.

 

I'm buying a 24 oz Paintball CO2 tank ($25) , a CGA 320 Adapter (CGA 320 is the size of the standard CO2 tank threading) ($10), and a regular solenoid ($40). The prices seem reasonable except for that CGA 320 adapter piece. $10 for a piece of metal. Unfortunately, I couldn't find the same piece at Home Depot or Lowe's and I'm also lazy. So I'd rather pay the $10 then figure out how to jerry-rig my own. The adapter allows the threading of a Paintball tank to connect with the threading of a standard CO2 solenoid. Considering the Fluval setup is $60, I'd say this $75 paintball setup is worth it - especially since it now has a solenoid! The main difference is CO2 refill. Dick's Sporting Goods (also local for me) refills 24oz paintball CO2 tanks for $5 and every 5th fill is free. I think 24 oz will last me a long time anyway. In any case - I think the main obstacle whether it is using a 20lb CO2 tank or using a 24oz Paintball tank is where you're going to get that CO2 filled. You can search for a local Airgas or like a place that sells/refills Fire Extinguishers. Bars use CO2 as well for beer - but you don't need food grade CO2, that's just overpaying.


 

I know I went a little overboard, but this is all information that I've recently researched and figured I'd share it. I can't comment on the performance on the paintball tank setup just yet, but I assume it will work fine.

 

TL;DR DIY systems are cheap and good, but not 100% reliable/consistent and must be manually turned on/off/. You may or may not marry a woman named Skyler White during the process. Major costs are $15 for DIY rig, $15 for a 5lb bag of Citric Acid. I'd recommend using a 24oz Paintball CO2 tank because they can attach to a solenoid and are reliable and consistent. Major costs are $25 for a 24oz Paintball Tank, $10 for a CGA 320 Adapter, a $40 solenoid. $5 fill ups at Dick's Sporting Goods.

What type of DIY system do you have? I have a citric acid/ baking soda setup and it has enough pressure to go through the diffuser.

You could use something like the low end fluval co2 systems.
https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Mini-Pressurized-20g-CO2-Kit/dp/B0049RL3H4/ref=pd_sim_199_5?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0049RL3H4&pd_rd_r=1BP0WCT9V6RAB7XF1WRP&pd_rd_w=Mk6rY&pd_rd_wg=wctUM&psc=1&refRID=1BP0WCT9V6RAB7XF1WRP

here’s the product I’m out to dinner but I’ll PM you later a picture if you’d like, it’s a pretty small footprint out side of the tank, the included diffuser is a tad large for my 5 gal but I don’t think it detracts too much.

I would recommend you set up a DIY CO2 system first to see if the results are what you're aiming for. It will cost about 1/5th the price of a prebuilt system. In my case I didn't want to deal with wasted CO2 cartridges that just end up in landfills anyways; so I got myself Seachem Flourish Excel which is a liquid CO2 dose. Dose every day manually but its only 1mL per 10 gallons every day or every other day depending on your plants requirements.

Amazon has it cheaper: http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Mini-Pressurized-20g-CO2-Kit/dp/B0049RL3H4

Also since we don't know how big your tank is and how many plants you have its hard to say if that's enough CO2.

https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Mini-Pressurized-20g-CO2-Kit/dp/B0049RL3H4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=fluval+20g&qid=1554097357&s=gateway&sr=8-1

It seems like replacing the co2 cannisters would get really expensive though. I'll probably try DIY for a little while but could see myself breaking down and getting a legit kit. Any suggestions? I saw this cheap fluval one but the replacement canisters get expensive.

Edit- word

It could be too many plants not enough co2. I'd give it a shot as it should give your plants a boost to health either way. I highly recommend the fluval 20g co2 passive defuser! It's great for 5-10 gallons.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0049RL3H4?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

This filter has been extremely reliable. I have used both this one and the smaller one in my tanks and they've been great.

If you don't feel like switching to a sponge filter, this is the one I'm using: https://www.amazon.com/Azoo-Mignon-Filter-150-Power/dp/B006KY1MF2?ref_=bl_dp_s_web_5554483011 . It's pretty quiet, and the flow can be tuned down to just a trickle. It comes with an intake sponge too.

https://www.amazon.com/AZOO-Mignon-Filter-150-Power/dp/B006KY1MF2


This one? I hear bad reviews... I ordered one of these https://www.amazon.com/Deep-Blue-Professional-ADB88700-Aquarium/dp/B00BUFTI6Q

but I wanna order this one too to compare and see... any reviews on other one?

It would be pretty strong but AquaClears are adjustable so the flow can be reduced somewhat. I've modded one before for a salt tank (actually it was an AquaClear 70 on a 5.5 lol but I swapped the impeller with a 20 and shaved off the notch that keeps the intake tube from being moved all the way to the right to slow flow down; this kept flow manageable so it didn't blow everything away). AquaClears are a bit pricier than other filters but I really like them because it's easy to mod them and you can change the filter media according to what you need in there. InTank makes really nice media baskets that go in them to replace the stock basket.

A better choice might be the Azoo Mignon 150, I get it from Amazon (there is a smaller size but in my opinion it's really a bit too small to go much good; this at least has a little room for filter media). It's pretty perfect for a freshwater 5 gallon.

I haven’t used it personally, but I’m assuming it will could help.

Also I found this HOB filter: https://www.amazon.com/Azoo-Mignon-Filter-150-Power/dp/B006KY1MF2

I have always used Fluval canister filters, and they work great for me. You should be able to get a nicely over powered one for even less than that. Here's one on amazon. I have two of them, one on a 70 gallon and one on a 55. One is about a year old and the other is about three years old. No broken parts, but the smaller one did start to drip a bit. It just needed a $10 replacement seal and it was as good as new. Honestly, it was my fault for never lubricating it to keep it from drying out. Other than that they work well. I have duckweed in my tanks and it hasn't let any get as far as the impeller, which would be disastrous.

Also, Sunsun is kind of an off brand but very economical. They come with a low powered UV sterilizer built into the canister which is pretty cool. It does have an on/off switch just for the UV, so you can leave it off until you need it to clear up algae or something. They don't come with any media, just some thin foam inserts that aren't good for much, but overall it is a great value. There is also a lot of room in these for custom media, which is nice. The fluvals have baskets as well, but only for half of the canister and the other half you are limited to using foam strips. The Sunsun is nothing but large baskets filling the canister with a hole down the middle for flow and the UV light. Here's a Sunsun on amazon.

I've noticed prices on canister filters go up and down quite a bit on amazon. I was shopping for one a few weeks ago and saw that the largest Sunsun was about $150. I waited a couple days and it went down to $100 and I snagged it. It just got here and the thing is absolutely massive. Lots of room to play with. I haven't started using it yet, so I can't tell you much about the quality and effectiveness, but all of the accessories (pipes, spray bars, etc.) aren't the best quality, but certainly not cheap feeling.

If you want to really have some fun you could easily build your own canister filter. Just get a wet/dry fountain pump and the proper adapters to connect it to some PVC tubing and some flexible tubing to go up to the aquarium. Get some 6" PVC to use as the canister and some large media socks to fill up and drop in. You can get some bulk foam to use for mechanical filtration and wedge those in there as well. Be sure to add stages of mechanical filtration, getting more and more fine as the water progresses. You can get a power head to pull the water back into the aquarium for about the same as the Sunsun or less. This would probably be the best quality of all the options since you could, if you wanted, have a few feet of of the 6" PVC, holding more biological media than any other canister. Also, with this you could customize the amount of flow, which would be nice for the betta.

No worries! Sunsun is a brand of canister filter, I have a 302 on this tank

http://www.amazon.com/SunSun-HW-302-3-Stage-External-Canister/dp/B00892EN22/ref=sr_1_15?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1417406372&sr=1-15&keywords=filter

Just found this. Well within my price range and a canister. Go for it?

Ahh okay, be careful with used tanks. Inspect the seals and make sure they're all intact and not coming off. Ideally, the guy would fill it to show that it still holds water too.

A drop checker is an indicator of how much CO2 is in the tank. Here's an explanation of how they work:

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/26-planted-tank-faq/136571-~explanation-how-drop-checker-works~.html

I'm not sure how well this one would work on a 20g long (the output might be too strong), but it's certainly a cheaper option:

https://www.amazon.com/SunSun-HW-302-3-Stage-External-Canister/dp/B00892EN22

That Fluval filter is really good. I have the Fluval 406 and it has done extremely well. I know they're expensive but I also have the Sun-Sun HW302 without the Antibacterial UV light inside it on my hatchling tank, and it runs just as great. Here's a link to the sun sun I have.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00892EN22/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1453762040&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=sunsun+hw+302&dpPl=1&dpID=41YYhADjDJL&ref=plSrch

And as for gravel, I've never used it personally. The turtles don't care if they have rocks or sand or even just glass on the bottom. It's more aesthetically pleasing to the human owners though, the turtles won't care one way, or another.

Im gonna say its a filter like:

http://www.amazon.com/4-Stage-External-Canister-Sterilizer-Aquarium/dp/B00896IILA

I have one and it has the same intake and output rack...

I just got this bad boy the other day http://www.amazon.com/4-Stage-External-Canister-Sterilizer-Aquarium/dp/B00896IILA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415644309&sr=8-1&keywords=sunsun+303b

Its super quiet and pumps out a lot of water, has an (underpowered) uv light, a skimmer and you cant beat $37 for a canister filter.

what about this one?

http://www.amazon.com/4-Stage-External-Canister-Sterilizer-Aquarium/dp/B00896IILA

and since ive never used a canister filter before what else do i need to buy?

Believe it or not, the green water is helping keep your fish alive. Many pond keepers intentionally cultivate green water to reduce ammonia. I also see your setup relies heavily on an undergravel filter. That's really oldschool. One of these bad boys will do your tank a world of difference.

I actually use the 304b on my decently heavily planted 75 and it's doing great. I love the 5 trays for media and how it's completely silent. The only problem I've noticed is that water flow all that great in the corner opposite to the spray bar.

I am running a Sun Sun HW-304B in a 55 gal and its been going strong for over a year, friend of mine has 3 of the same filter with no issues and he got his first 2 years before me. I don't know if it will last as long as an Eheim but it keeps my tank clean through overstocking and light maintenance schedules when i get busy. At the price i dont know if you can really do better unless you spend at least twice as much.

I have smaller aquaclears that I love, they have the advantage of being easy to clean (no cracking open a pressurized canister) so I find I do it more. I have this sunsun that I run on my winter goldfish tank that I like and you could probably get away with just one on a lower bioload community tank. Again the disadvantage of any canister is taking it apart to clean but honestly it's not that hard, especially if you aren't running it on a super high bioload fish like me so it needs to be cleaned once a week.

Weelllll...the best setup is the biggest you can afford. The bare minimum for 2 fancies would be a 40 gallon breeder, but the more space you can give them the better. If you live in the US you can get a pretty awesome discount on aquariums up to 75 gallons (varies by store) fairly often when they do "Dollar Per Gallon" sales. Petco does the most frequent DPGs but Petsmart and Pet Supplies Plus also do them. Petsmart sometimes just has heavily discounted sets also. Anyway, $40 is the least it will cost if you buy a new tank, but maybe you can find a great deal for a secondhand tank on a resale site if you prefer that route.

Filter...maybe go with a SunSun as they're quite cheap for their quality. I use this one and while the UV sterilizer is generally unnecessary I guess it might be helpful in an ich outbreak or something. It's actually slightly below the 10xph flow rate for my 55g so I supplement it with a HOB filter that I keep spare media in in case it's ever needed. For media in the canister I have sponges of varying coarseness, generic ceramic rings (for nitrifying bacteria), and Seachem Matrix (for nitrate-consuming bacteria).

The best water tester is the API Freshwater Master Test Kit. It may seem expensive at first glance, but it's actually cheaper over time - AND more accurate than strips. For water changes, since I don't have a faucet that can support a Python auto-changer, I use a pump stuck to the bottom of the bucket to push water up through spare tubing. Saves me the trouble of lifting heavy buckets or trying to gradually scoop the water out.

The best foods are New Life Spectrum, Repashy, Saki-Hikari, and if you need a cheaper option Omega One. You should also supply plenty of leafy greens; the fiber is very good for their digestive tract.

wondering this too.

or a brand new SunSun 304B for 78 bucks. sure, you might be able to DIY a can for a bit less than 78 bucks. but how much less really AND have the piece of mind of no leaks and a proven design?

> Well, if the husband doesn't want to be Aquarium Robert Smith, just wait.

Cure reference, nice.

> The cheapest way would be to purchase a good HOB filter like an Aquaclear 70 or a fluval C5, though you can get a SunSun canister through amazon at just barely a little more. You're definitely going to want both filters on as you're cycling.

Is this one appropriate? Then to confirm, you are saying run both the 220 that we already have and the SunSun?

> Speaking of which, you've mentioned you're cycling your tank currently--what method are you using to cycle it and do you have a testing kit for your water parameters?

The tank has been filled & there are some cherry shrimp in there right now (We'll find them another home before the cichlids hit the tank.) My husband was in charge of the cycling process, but I can tell you he did some minimal reading & then winged it LOL. He put a used filter from our other tank in there for a week or so in a mesh bag, along with a decent amount of gravel from an active tank. We have since removed all of that so we could put in the sand to prepare for the cichlids. Other than that, cycling has mostly just been waiting (2-3 weeks so far). We tested for ph & ammonia. Ammonia is 0 and I don't remember what the ph was offhand (but it was within range of the cichlids I was considering at the time). We'll need to test that again anyway since we pulled the gravel & put in the sand this past weekend. I also ordered a water hardness test that hasn't arrived yet after reading that cichlids seem to like hard water.

I had a Used XP-L,, in my experience.. the best bang for your buck filter is this one..

http://www.amazon.com/SunSun-China-HW-304B-External-Canister-Sterilizer/dp/B008986EQO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449086307&sr=8-1&keywords=sunsun

i one one running close to 3 years and still going strong.

I'm probably going to go with this.

I've been in the turtle game for about a year now, recently I've upgraded my 55 gallon canister filter to 150 gallon one called Sunsun HW-304B and wow has it been an improvement. Turtles need 3x the filter so if you have 55 gallon tank you're going to need one rated for 150-200 gallons which canister filters are preferred since they can last a long time without cleaning and provide better suction.

If you do go the canister filter route I would get this media kit that has everything you need to started.

As far as chemicals go I would stick with TetraFauna Aquasafe and API Sludge Destroyer, use only a little bit since that will make your water cloudy if you use too much.

To pick up food waste and whatever else get this long pole fishnet instead of those short ones that they sell at pet stores so you can get in there really deep without shoving your arm in.

Turtles also need 2 types of light UVB and heat, I found that this combo lamp works fine.

This is true. The only reason I ask is because the Sun Sun canisters come with a UV sterilizer in them. I guess a bucket, motor and UV light is hard to screw up. Was thinking about getting the 5 stage for my 55. the 304B

That would be the Sun sun hb-304b. Its about $100 and works really well. I have one on my other tank too.

Filter http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008986EQO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421121421&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=31fg9kdaJ9L&ref=plSrch

1st level http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B50UPE0

Put this on top of the other floss http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002HBLUE

2nd level http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002Z7VAK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421121104&sr=8-1

3rd level http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000R31KH2

With http://www.amazon.comgp/aw/d/B0006JLVUI inside of http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002X6F7AW put on top of the other media

4th level 2 packs of these http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NRVLIU

Here is my layout, if I were to redo it I would have made the last 3 eheim pro. For the media I would have used the floss it came with at the bottom just rip it vertically, then foam, then the fine floss.

Overall I rate it 4.5 out of 5, sometimes it is hard to prime.

Filter
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008986EQO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421121421&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=31fg9kdaJ9L&ref=plSrch

1st level
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B50UPE0

Put this on top of the other floss
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002HBLUE

2nd level
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002Z7VAK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421121104&sr=8-1

3rd level
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000R31KH2

With http://www.amazon.comgp/aw/d/B0006JLVUI inside of http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002X6F7AW put on top of the other media

4th level
2 packs of these http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NRVLIU

We ran our 5.5 gal beautifully with one of these but you need an air pump to run it

Aquaneat Air Driven Bio Corner Filter Sponge Fry Shrimp Nano Fish Tank Aquarium 20 Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078WP442W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ZHnhDbKSFVG4D

This is a GREAT option though and id do this if i did it over again. But one thing is i would remove the filter things inside and replace with a piece of filter foam or just poly floss and some ceramic rings or similar media inside. Floss or foam against the intake grates and the rings behind it. I love these cause theyre super strong little guys and are completely silent

Aqueon Quietflow Internal Power Filter, 10 Gallon, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWV4R8I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mKnhDbT1RMMTG

This is a great response thank you! I saved an eheim 50w heater that looks really nice and is very adjustable. I'll have to look more into filters obviously I don't want something that'll push him around so a sponge filter sounds nice.

I saw this filter but need to find some opinions on it for Bettas:
https://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-10-Gallon-QuietFlow-Internal-Filter/dp/B00AWV4R8I/ref=sr_1_5?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1477313479&sr=1-5&keywords=aqueon+quietflow

I am new with all this, but i do recommend this filter for your temp 10g http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000260FVG/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i03 it's cheap to maintain also. It keeps my tank clean and runs quiet.

It's a 2.5 gallon tank, divided in half up to about 6 inches by some craft foam, sealed with silicone caulk (it's give or take a gallon of water).
It uses one of those tetra whisper filters powered by an air bubbler.

the ground is made up of about 3 inches of gravel for drainage, under 3 or 4ish inches of coco coir dirt, and that's covered up by some sort of a moss (it was given to me when I received an enclosure for one of my tarantulas, the previous owner was keeping toads, I figure it's frog safe moss). They've got a little rock in there to hang out on, and that plastic cup is a small tupperware thing I use because dubia nymphs and dwarf white isopods cannot climb out (The frogs have been eating heavily out of it, so they've figured it out, I was worried they wouldn't explore it). The dirt has been inoculated with dwarf white isopods mostly to keep the enclosure free of frog poo, but also for the smaller guys to scavenge (though I don't count on that as a primary food source)

In the top right corner I have a little sump pit of sorts, constructed out of the same foam, hot glued but not sealed, so water will drain into it, so I can run a drain hose in the event my divider ever leaks.

What do we think? I was thinking of putting a cheap fish in the water as a sort of miners canary to let me know if the water quality goes south

If you feel like keeping the sponge out and providing more overall area, you can get a hob. The Azoo Mignon's will fit this easy, used to have one on my 2.5.

link- https://www.amazon.com/AZOO-Mignon-Filter-150-Power/dp/B006KY1MF2/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1535951500&sr=8-2-fkmr1&keywords=azoo+mignon+g

FYI I have a canister filter that looks exactly like that but branded as sunsun. Looks like the sunsun brand is cheaper

I would suggest two Sun Sun canister filters. More capacity than the hang on the back filters, require less maintenance, and are much quieter.
You'll likely get away with opening them to service/clean once per four to six months.
Throw a sack of Seachem Purigen in each canister filter, and a bag of carbon.... you'll be golden.



https://www.amazon.com/SunSun-Hw304B-525GPH-Canister-Filter/dp/B00MH37484

I personally use Fluval canister filters, but they are essentially the same thing.

Poolsand/playsand is fine if you like that look. Just make sure to rinse it a bit.