(Part 2) Best aquarium filters according to redditors

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We found 1,038 Reddit comments discussing the best aquarium filters. We ranked the 190 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.

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Top Reddit comments about Aquarium Filters:

u/Silver_kitty · 21 pointsr/Aquariums

I flipped through the 23 pages of "Pet supplies" and selected every fish-related item I saw. Times are in EDT.
Prime Day Fish Deals:

API Products:

u/Dd7990 · 15 pointsr/bettafish

Unfortunately, Freedom doesn't seem to have much freedom or space to swim around in that tank... That tank is no way the minimum 5g we recommend here on this subreddit. If I had to guess, that tank can't be more than 1-2 gallons. I hope you'll consider giving him much more freedom to swim in a bigger tank of 5g (18-20 Liters) or larger. A larger tank will also have a more stable nitrogen cycle which is absolutely important to your betta's long-term health. Otherwise, his life will be shortened living in a sub-par habitat and he'll be suffering of Ammonia and Nitrite poisoning.

​

If you're in the USA, Petco is having their Dollar-Per-Gallon sales right now, meaning that for a mere $10 + Tax, you can grab a 10g tank which will be plenty perfect for a betta, or Petco also sells a 5.5g tank for about $14 ($13.99), but seriously the 10g tank for $10+Tax is too good of a deal.

​

The sale is ongoing until Aug. 24, so get it before it's gone.

​

See the sale here, sign up for their rewards program first so you can get the discount (it's free to sign up): https://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/category/dollar-per-gallon-sale

Then I recommend also getting:

  • A breathable lid/hood that fits on the tank (you need to cover the top somehow so that the betta can't accidently jump out, as they are skilled jumpers)
  • Sponge Filter - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RFL4JMM/
  • Air pump (required to run the sponge filter): https://www.amazon.com/Pawfly-MA-60-Aquarium-Gallon-Accessories/dp/B073DWVX5P/
  • High-quality Airline tubing (the free one included with the air pump above is bad quality since it's free, and you can see the reviews saying the free tubes are no good) https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Airline-Aquariums-Terrariums-Hydroponics/dp/B079DFWLX4/
  • AND a 50w heater (50w recommended for 10g, OR a 25w would be for a 5 or 5.5g tank) with a MANUAL TEMPERATURE SETTINGS knob... DO NOT get a preset heater, if it can be avoided (Preset heaters are not accurate).

    You will have to do Fish-In-Cycle (please read):

    https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/wiki/fishincycle

    ​

    Must-Have items for your Fish-In-Cycling process + Additional Info:

    https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116012300-Stability-500ml/dp/B0002APIIW <-- Beneficial Bacteria blend, add 2x-3x the recommended amount of this directly into the filter, filter media, & tank water, especially after a water change. Add the bene-bacteria on a DAILY basis, for up to a week or longer if you like. Don't worry about "overdosing" on Bene-bacteria, the more the better when trying to kickstart a nitrogen cycle.

    https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116043304-Prime-500ml/dp/B00025694O/ <--Best water conditioner, also temporarily binds ammonia into less harmful form.

    https://www.amazon.com/API-FRESHWATER-800-Test-Freshwater-Aquarium/dp/B000255NCI/ <--- ABSOLUTELY MUST HAVE, VERY IMPORTANT, liquid water parameters test kit. Three main things to check daily or every-other-day: Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate. Not cycled will read 0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrite, 0 Nitrate. Cycling in progress will read some ammonia and/or some nitrite, but little or no nitrate. Fully Cycled will read 0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrite, and 5-10 ppm of Nitrate, then when nitrate reaches 15-20 ppm in a cycled tank a water change is necessary to reduce said nitrates.

    ​

    Other stuff:

    Also... try getting NorthFin Betta Bits, they're one of the best pellets with high quality ingredients, little or no fillers, and absolutely no nasty toxic preservatives. My bettas love them so much that they inhale them like it's drugs for a drug addict or something LOL (or exactly like Kirby)! https://www.amazon.com/Northfin-Food-Betta-Pellet-Package/dp/B00M4Q5DQ4/

    Beware of overfeeding, which is equally bad for bettas (they are gluttons and would eat till they burst if given the chance) https://i.imgur.com/4RR2LZ9.jpg. (save this pic for reference, feed betta as much as makes his belly match between 1st and 2nd photo, then let him digest back down to a normal belly before feed again.)

    Filter - any as long as it have adjustable flow (or else you can make a baffle if the flow is too strong, google about that), or many here recommend a basic Sponge-Filter to have a gentle water output that won't be stressful and push the betta all around the tank (the ones with big fins have a hard time with strong currents in their tank)

    Heater - Any heater, following the 5-watt-per-gallon power rating rule, with a manual knob for setting temperature (so for example 5g you want at least 25watt heater), don't go for preset heaters (they're not very accurate). Bettas like 78-80F (25-27C).

    Plants - Bettas like to have a lot (like a jungle) of plants to hide in, swim through, explore, play, and rest on. Some beginner live plants that don't require special setups are Marimo Moss balls + Java moss, other live plants may have special requirements in order to thrive. Silk plants (cloth leaves) are fine too if you don't have a green thumb. I do a mixed hybrid tank; silk plants + lots of marimo moss balls + java moss. Make sure if using silk/fake plants that there's no sharp pokey bits, remove and sand them down if there are. You can get good deals on live plant packages on r/AquaSwap

    Decor - Bettas appreciate cave-like decor that they can hide in. Make sure there's nothing sharp on the inside of the cave, nor sharp edges or sharp parts outside. Avoid also any smallish openings that a betta can get their head stuck in if they get curious. Another nice decor is the ZooMed Floating Betta Log (for 5g or larger tanks), bettas like hanging out in there.

    Cleaning/Tank Maintenance Supplies -

    Seachem Stability, Seachem Prime, API Freshwater Master Test Kit, big bucket (can have 2, one for clean water, and one for the old dirty tank water), and an appropriate gravel vacuum (they come in different sizes so make sure you get one that is the right size for your tank). Algae scraper thing too (the lil magnetic ones are nice) if you don't like algae on the front of the tank...Brand new clear-plastic Turkey Baster (which you will only use for aquarium use) will be good for spot-cleaning (immediate removal of food/poo wastes if you see any sitting around)

    More info on Betta care & needs: https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/wiki/index
u/BnGamesReviews · 11 pointsr/Showerthoughts

The Ninja Turtles were mutated from Red-eared Sliders and in the 7 years I took care of one the smell was usually not from the Turtle but from the tank. In the begining I used pellets, and let me tell you DONT use pellets with aquatic turtles because that shit gets nasty. One of the worst smells ive ever had to deal with. If you maintain it correctly the smell is not that bad.

Feed them dark greens and don't let the leftovers just float around, scoop them out. It also helps to have a pump/filter that would be overkill for the size of the tank you have your turtle in.

Mine was in a 100gal tank and I had this monster pump/filter in it which was so good I onlu needed to clean the whole thing once every few months vs every few weeks. If you are going to keep an aquatic turtle indoors its expensive and takes ALOT of patience to learn the dos and donts. And in the end, they are not great pets, they don't care about you until you bring them food.

Obligatory pic of Chell

u/Ishikama · 9 pointsr/bettafish

Hello! Welcome to the wonderful world of betta keeping! I'm a bit late to the game, since this was posted a bit ago, and you've already recieved advice, but I'd like to offer up some as well.

As everyone has already said, it's a pretty big misconception for nearly all new betta keepers that bettas can be kept in small spaces without a filter or heater. This stems from the belief that bettas live in mud puddles, when it couldn't be further from the truth.

Bettas come from vast rice paddies, that will usually never dip below knee height and stretches for miles on end. In the dry season, the paddies do tend have lower water levels, but certainly not puddles. It's a densely planted ecosystem with moving water, and natural filters, ie. The plants and bacteria.

Since you're new to fish keeping (I assume, but apologies if I am wrong) you may not be aware of something called the "Nitrogen Cycle." While it may be confusing at first, essentially the beneficial bacteria that breaks down your fishes waste into ammonia, then nitrites, and then nitrates. This process is crucial for your fishes health and well being, and is very important in the fish keeping world, but I'll get into the specifics a bit more later in this comment.

While the "recommended" amount of space for a betta is commonly agreed to be 2.5 gallons, which is perfectly fine as a bare minimum, I would honestly not recommend such a small space for a beginner. This is because of the nitrogen cycle. I would go with a 5 gallon tank, or even a 10 gallon, which will be much easier to cycle and keep your fish much safer during the process.

As for the nitrogen cycle itself, the process happens on it's own, but you have to be the one to keep your fish safe during it. Basically, ammonia and nitrites are deadly to your fish, and for the first few weeks, these will be all too common. What your aiming for is the much safer, but still harmful in large quantities, and manageable nitrites at the end of the cycle.

The nitrogen cycle starts with the addition of ammonia into a new tank. This can be done in 2 ways, fish in or fish out. What you'll be doing is a fish in cycle. Beneficial bacteria will begin to grow in your tank to break down waste and convert them into the ammonia, nitrite, and nitrates. The bacteria grow on surfaces, such as decor, gravel, filter, heater, glass, and is NOT present in the water itself. This means that for the next few weeks, you gotta stay on top of your water change game.

50% water changes every other day for 2 weeks. 30% water changes every other day for 2 weeks. 40% water changes about every 3-4 days for a week. 30% water changes about once or twice a week at the end of the cycle. I know it seems like a lot, but your fish will appreciate it.

For more information on the Nitrogen Cycle, you can search it on google, and a helpful video to watch on it is KGTropicals youtube video "everything you need to know about the nitrogen cycle." They break it down so well and have more visual representations, so I definitely recommend it.

Some things to consider getting for your fish as well, and things that will help your cycle a TON. I'll be adding links for visual representation, as well as trying to find you the best prices I can.

  1. A good sized tank. I recommend a 5 or 10 gallon, much easier to start and keep a cycle in a bigger tank, but yes, 2.5 gallons is perfectly fine if you need it space wise. Be aware that even more water changes will be required to keep and maintain your tanks balance though.

    No links for this one since shipping a tank is a PAIN, but 5 and 10 gallon tanks can be bought from places like walmart, or local stores, or petsmart and Petco. I'm not sure if petco is still having their dollar per gallon sale, but a 10 gallon tank would only be $10.

  2. A good water conditioner. I recommend something like Seachem Prime or Neutral Regulator. These will remove any heavy metals, chlorine, and chlorimine from your water, AND detoxify ammonia, and nitrites for 48 hours. This is SO GOOD for keeping your fish happy and healthy during the cycling process.

    https://www.amazon.com/Safe-250-g-8-8-oz/dp/B0002A5WOC/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?keywords=seachem+prime&qid=1572116532&sr=8-8

  3. A good filter. Personally, sponge filters are the way to go. Easy, cheap, reliable. Most local fish stores will have the sponge filter itself, but they can also be ordered on Amazon. The other things needed would be airline tubing, and an airpump. The tubing and air pump can be bought even at big retailers like walmart or meijer and replaced easily sin e they're so readily available.

    To clean a sponge filter is the easiest thing. While your changing tank water, out some in a clean bucket, take your sponge filter out, put in bucket of removed tank water, squeeze sponge filter, put back in tank. It also holds an awesome amount of the good beneficial bacteria and will not lose it when you clean it, unlike changing cartridges for a hang on back filter. They also aerate the water, bringing more oxygen into it, and don't create a high flow that will tire your betta.

    https://www.amazon.com/Lefunpets-Biochemical-Sponge-Breeding-Aquarium/dp/B07VM8DN5Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?keywords=sponge+filter&qid=1572116736&sr=8-7

    https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Whisper-Pump-Gallon-Aquariums/dp/B004PB8SMM/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=fish%2Btank%2Bair%2Bpump&qid=1572116792&sr=8-3&th=1&psc=1

    https://www.amazon.com/Penn-Plax-Aquariums-Flexible-Standard/dp/B0002563MW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=airline+tubing&qid=1572116832&sr=8-3

    Hang on back filters can be used too though, I just don't find them as reliable.

    https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Whisper-Power-Filter-Three-Stage/dp/B001CHXJSK/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?keywords=fish+tank+filter&qid=1572117085&sr=8-16

    Be sure to use a hang on back appropriate for your tank size. Bettas can tire easily of water flow is too high, and in some cases you may still need to baffle the filter.

    https://youtu.be/Hse7F3pvHqI

  4. A good heater. Ideally, you want one you can adjust. Choose a heater for your tank size as well. Too small, won't keep water warm, too bug, could possibly cook your fish. That's never a good thing.

    https://www.amazon.com/HITOP-Aquarium-Reptiles-Thermometer-50W-Grey/dp/B07MJJJ4QQ/ref=sxin_2_ac_m_pm?ac_md=1-0-VW5kZXIgJDIw-ac_d_pm&keywords=fish+tank+heater&pd_rd_i=B07MJJJ4QQ&pd_rd_r=429ee2a8-3699-45aa-8e2b-e30164b14a2a&pd_rd_w=uFCrj&pd_rd_wg=125c4&pf_rd_p=808372f4-ce06-4458-88ef-16b605aa053a&pf_rd_r=T4YHMVDAP5EAQSAGXKJV&psc=1&qid=1572117367

  5. A good food. The recommended I've seen so far is Northfin betta bits, or Fluval bug bites. You can also go the frozen food route, but it's a bit more expensive and involved.

    https://www.amazon.com/Northfin-Betta-Bits-Pellet-Package/dp/B01C1ARV3K/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=northfin+betta+bits&qid=1572117834&sprefix=northfin+&sr=8-2

    https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A6577-Tropical-Granules-Medium/dp/B07194GD1F/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=fluval+bug+bites&qid=1572117868&sprefix=fluval+bug&sr=8-4

    I use a mix of Aqueon, Northfin, and Fluval for some variety in my bettas diets along with frozen blood worms. They love them. I've heard Hikari betta food is good too.

    I don't recommend the generic foods sold at walmart. The pellets are too big, and the formula is low quality. It'll keep your betta alive, but just isn't great for them. Also, flake foods are a no no. It's just too messy, the fish doesn't eat all of it, and just isn't worth it.

    Lastly, you want to decide what kind of decor you will go with. If you go artificial, be sure to use soft, silk plants so your bettas fins do not get hurt.

    I recommend live plants always though, cause they help a lot in keeping your tank clean, produce oxygen, and will help absorb some of nitrates in the water. All around good stuff. Easy plants to take care of are anubias, java ferns, java moss, water wisteria, and floating plants like water lettuce.

    Bettas also need hiding places. This can be anything really. From the decor sold at walmart, natural looking rock caves, or even a terracotta pot. It doesn't really matter, as long as it doesn't have sharp points.

    The decor is up to you and what you like.

    Ummmmm, I can't think of anything else really. But if you need any help with anything, feel free to reach out! A lot of us are passionate about our quirky little dudes and gals and will be more than happy to help with anything you need advice on. And use the internet to your advantage too! There's TONS of good information and videos out there now, and you can find what you're looking for at the touch of a screen now.

    And also also, please do not feel bad about your start at betta keeping. We all start somewhere, and more than likely, we have all made this very same mistake. I know I did. The best thing to do now is to just work on upgrading your little dude and providing the best care you can for him. He'll start to heal up and REALLY shine.

    Apologies for extremely long message, but I hope this helps and wish you and your betta the best of luck!! ☺️
u/engagechad · 7 pointsr/turtle

That is a red eared slider. It is quite possibly the most popular pet turtle species. These turtles are popular because they're prolific and they look like little turtles, unfortunately in a few years that little turtle will have grown exponentially. Most of the time it's a parent who bought the turtle for a kid, kid loses interest, parent doesn't know what to do...

Do not release the turt. It would die in Toronto and even if it did not, environmentally if anyone releases a non indigenous species into the wild, although it sounds harmless enough there are large implications when it comes to OTHER reptile populations. This little turt could mate and create a bunch of other turts that eat up food sources etc...

  1. Keep the turt as best you can
  2. Find a home for the turt via craigslist or a rescue

    1A.

    A 10 gallon tank would be a great starter tank for a RES this size. 10 gallon tanks usually run about $10 at petsmart or petco so there is probably a similar cost up there

    1.B

    You will need two lights to run during the day:
    1 UVB fixture with a bulb

    and 1 heat lamp. Some people splurge and purchase heat lamp bulbs specifically made for reptiles, however I have found that using a household bulb provides the same amount of heat. User a bulb that the fixture can handle.

    1C.

    The turt will need a basking platform. There are super cool options but simple and efficient is the way to go if you're starting.

    1D.

    You will need a filter. Turtles poop a lot more than fish do so when you're shopping for filters always double the GPH needed to account for the extra nitrates.

    1E.

    You will need food. Every food is different and let me tell you from experience that you can spend hours researching what is best to feed your turtle...

    Protein:

    I have learned that omnivorious turtles such as a red eared slider do well if they are started with a protein rich diet and then transition into adulthood with an omnivorous diet.

    I would suggest doing the following: go to the grocery store and buy a small Salmon fillet. It may seem silly, but it will last you a very long time. Keep the Salmon in the freezer and feed the turt a few small strips (a serving size should be thought of as, if the turts head were empty, how much food could you fit in it). Make the strips small enough so that the turtle can swallow it.

    Feeding tip: Salmon or any other form of protein such as bloodworms, krill etc... can be quite messy because of the amount of oil in the meat. Many turtle keepers (me included) prefer to feed turtles outside of the tank in order to keep the living tank clean. get a small rubbermaid tub or something, make sure it's clean of course and fill it up with enough water for the turt to float around. feed the turt in that water, when you're done, discard the water and put the fat n happy turt back in the living tank. This method lowers the frequency of water changes and keeps the tank cleaner. Handling the turtle like this to feed is also helpful to make the turtle okay with being handled.

    Calcium:

    As you will read, reptiles need calcium in order to stay healthy. Snakes need calcium in the form of rat bones, bearded dragons eat crickets but turtles do best when supplemented with a cuttlebone. There are turtle specific cuttlebones but they're more expensive and the only real different is that they do not have the hard backing that the cuttlebones for birds have. All you have to do to remove the backing is toss it in a saucepan, boil it for a minute or so, let it cool and then that backing can peel off. This also softens up the cuttlebone some. It's not easy to get the backing off in one fell swoop, but turtles don't care if the cuttlebone is in one big piece or if it's in little white chunks. Calcium supplementation is vital for young turts just as the protein is. Once a week or so is good for calcium.

    I have rambled. I am passionate about reptiles so I tend to nerd out. Anyway. Please feel free to PM me with questions, I would really love to help in any way.

    Chad
u/halcyonights · 7 pointsr/blackdesertonline

If you have 3k to spend on a game you probably aren't worrying about money. It's a recreational expense, like buying a stupidly expensive kayak or fitting all your aquariums (no, nobody just has one) with $300 canisters. People with extra money do spend on their hobbies, and gaming is a hobby.

u/MooseTheWizard · 6 pointsr/Aquariums

Too small for a bristlenose, and you want 6 neons (this tank is too small for them as well). I don't know much about kuhli loaches, but this is probably a tight fit for them too.

This is also a very, very heavy stocking for a 13.7 gallon aquarium. As this is your first tank, I highly suggest going for a small stock and getting a feel for it - solving problems with a low bioload is much easier, and will give you much needed practice for when things occur down the road.

I would recommend that you get solely a male betta for now. Your decor choice is good, and I applaud you for going with sand over gravel. It's much better, objectively.

If you can find them at your local fish store (LFS), pick up some Malaysian trumpet snails (MTS). They'll aerate the substrate and cycle waste into the sand, as well as eat uneaten food and decaying plant matter.

In terms of filtration, you could probably get away with an air pump and a sponge. If you have a fair chunk of money to dedicate to this aquarium, my filter of choice for tanks under 15 gallons is the ZooMed 501. If that is outside of your budget, an AquaClear 20 would be great. I would have the outflow disperse over your driftwood to avoid churning up your sand. If you need creative ideas, feel free to post here again and we can help you figure something out. The primary advantage of the canister is that it is dead silent, and comes with a spray bar which greatly helps to disperse the flow (bettas do not appreciate lots of flow in their environment).

I would do your damnedest to keep the tank out of sunlight, as this will contribute to rampant algae problems. It should have a dedicated light. You can purchase a clamp light and 6500K CFL bulb from home depot for about $15 total. Very wise investment, and this allows you to grow plants!

You need to keep the tank (for a Betta) at 78-80F. If your ambient temperature is not this, you will require a heater. My personal favourite heater for small aquariums are manufactured by Hydor. Aim for 50W for the set up. Here is a link to one.

There is a very good link regarding cycling in the sidebar. It can be found here.

While I do not know your water's composition, I would still recommend treating it with SeaChem Prime. This helps out with some heavy metals as well. While I am not sure if it will benefit you, it is fairly cheap and you'll get a ton of uses out of it for the cost. Hopefully someone with a similar water source to yours will chime in, as I myself am on municipal supply and must dechlorinate my water.

Earlier when I mentioned lighting, I mentioned plants. These are a great addition to your aquarium and your fish will appreciate them. For beginner plants, I would recommend looking into Anubias and Java Fern. They do not grow in substrate, but rather on decor and can be fastened to your driftwood with zip ties or string. They absorb nutrients from the water column, helping to clean your tank while providing refuge for your fish. I would also recommend a floating plant, as it will dim the lights and provide your betta with cover. Frogbit is great, and very cheap in my experience. It grows very well. None of these plants require you to do ANYTHING extra aside from get that light I mentioned. There are fancier alternatives, but they are not necessary for this set up with the above plants. I highly recommend setting your lights up on a timer and keeping them on for 8 hours a day. If you notice algae, reduce light.

I hope this helps. If you have anymore questions feel free to let me know. Really great of you to come and ask for advice BEFORE purchasing an animal, kudos to you.

Be sure to check out /r/bettafish and /r/plantedtank. Within you'll find lots of guides and extremely knowledgeable people. I would highly recommend reading the majority of links from the side bar in those two subreddits, as well as this one. There's a trove of information at your disposal. Here's a link to /r/Aquariums' wiki.

Finally, here's a care sheet specifically about Bettas!

Hopefully that wasn't too long winded for you. Best of luck in the hobby.

u/capn_untsahts · 5 pointsr/turtle

I'm not sure that you can get a quality canister filter under $60 for that size of tank?

I have an Eheim Classic and it's awesome. Extremely quiet, works great, easy to use, and has been working great for 4 years now. I've been using the 92 gallon version with a 40 gallon tank for a RES (you really want to double up the rating for turtles). I know it's almost double your budget but I'd highly recommend it. Maybe you could get away with the 66 gallon version if your turtle is smaller though.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002AQXV8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/Kaleb_epic · 5 pointsr/bettafish

Well I can tell you right now the current did not kill the first one. Those guys do well in current. The fact the other one came from petsmart makes me think it was likely already sick. Every betta I got from there was sick and needed treatment and not every betta is savable.

Is it one of these you have? https://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-06082-QuietFlow-Filter-200GPH/dp/B000SP340U?th=1

u/Akaizhar · 5 pointsr/nanotank

I use this on my 10 liter and it works well.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005DGHRU2

u/OteeseDreeftwood · 5 pointsr/turtle

SunSun is the best value for money, but the Fluval FX5 or FX6 is probably the best turtle filter on the market. Keep an eye on Craigslist and you may find a used one for a much more reasonable price than new. The best trick (and the trick I used) is to find someone selling a tank with everything included, and then convince them to just sell you the filter.

u/Oucid · 4 pointsr/bettafish

Do:

Research and complete the fishless nitrogen cycle so do this before buying the fish.
Cycling takes 2-6 weeks to complete, youll need an API master test kit and a source of ammonia to get started. Heres some links that will help you!

Fishless cycling: https://www.fishkeeping.co.uk/articles_51/fishless-cycling-article.htm

I also made a diagram to help people understand because the explanation can be confusing: https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/comments/c8evu4/nitrogen_cycle_art_by_me/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app

Supplies you’ll need to get started: Seachem Prime Fresh and Saltwater Conditioner - Chemical Remover and Detoxifier 100 ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255PFI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JEpvDbA2GYR49

API Freshwater Master Test Kit 800-Test Freshwater Aquarium Water master Test Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cEpvDb8R85Q1K

For the ammonia source you can use fish food or pure ammonia, nothing with added stuff like cleaners though.

Do:

Buy a 5 gallon tank! 10 gallon would be best but in my opinion 5 should be minimum, with 3 being the absolute minimum but if you havent bought the tank/can upgrade i dont know why you wouldnt want more space for the fish! Plus its easier to maintain the cycle and heat anyway. Petsmart has a 5.5 gallon kit with a lid filter and thermometer, they also have a 10 gallon kit that comes with lid filter thermometer and heater. Or you can buy a plain $10 10 gallon tank from Petco because they are having a sale rn dollar per gallon on 10 gallons, 20 gallons and I think the cut off is before 40 gallons (then its just half priced) but then youll need to buy a lid and filter separate

Do:

Buy an adjustable heater! Betta fish are tropical and like temps of 78-80°F, anything cooler will shorten their lifespan and raise their chance of illness. Preset heaters arent always reliable, one with an adjustable knob is best especially if you ever have to treat a disease and change the temp yourself for it.

Do:

Have a filter running at all times. If you get one of the kit tanks, here is what I did to modify the filter to make it better (link) Youll have to baffle the outflow, especially if you want a betta with long fine. You can do this best/safest with a sponge ive found. Also will want a prefilter sponge on the intake so the fins dont get sucked up. The best filters for bettas are ones with low flow and have a lot of room for bacteria to grow, if it comes with a cartridge you can remove it and replace it with foam/bio media/floss to make it more effective. Carbon is useless after a few weeks, its best for sucking meds out of the water if needed. Sponge filters are also great filters and just require an air pump, airline tubing and some valves. Relatively easy to set up and has the perfect amount of flow for bettas. One like this will work great (link)

Do:

Get some live plants! Bettas love exploring and swimming/sleeping in little jungles.

Here are my two tanks with live plants only (and driftwood which is also a great decor when aquarium safe) The second one is looking a little sparse but will be filled in later on, its relatively new; My tanks/example (link)

Do:

Have a good maintenance routine, 15-25% water changes weekly should be enough in a tank with an established cycle. Using a gravel vacuum can make it way easier too, i love mine. What I use (link) Scrubbing the glass for algae if needed is also a part of my routine. Make sure you condition the new water with a conditioner like Seachem Prime to remove chlorine.

_____
DONT:

Rinse the gravel or filter media in tap water! You shouldnt need to remove the gravel to clean it, especially if you use a gravel vacuum and feed properly. Rinsing these things will kill the beneficial bacteria and throw off your cycle! If the filter needs cleaned you can take the inserts out and squeeze or swish in old tank water to get gunk off. It shouldnt need to be replaced for a long time, if you do however make sure to run it with the new media (so foam/bio media etc) in the tank or filter to seed it with bacteria so you dont throw off the cycle that way.

DONT;

Overfeed! This happens a lot in the betta world, even one extra pellet can make your fish a little constipated. Overfeeding can lead to bloating/constipation and those can lead to worse problems, 2-3 high quality pellets like Northfin Betta bits or Fluval Bug bites betta formula (Ive seen this in petco but had to order the Northfin off amazon) two times a day should be enough. You can substitute a few feedings a week with frozen food, they have small stomachs so feed the equivalent of 2-3 pellets with the frozen food as well. Personally i fast one day a week, its a good practice to help your fish digest its food and I recommend it! I dont feed on Sundays for example. So 3 pellets in the morning and 3 at night, feed one at a time - this will help you know if the fish is eating okay and it will help create less waste.

DONT:

Rush into buying the fish right away, the cycling process is super important to the fish’s heath and your sanity lol. Bad water quality can make a fish sick so easily, this is also why an API master test kit is basically required


Hopefully that helped, its all I can think of right now lol

u/OrionFish · 4 pointsr/Aquariums

I’m sorry to say the above comments are right. Common goldfish get over 1 foot in length and are incredibly messy fish. They really belong in a pond, but you could theoretically keep one in 75 gallon (but a 90 gallon is the same footprint with a little more height, offering more water and therefore easier to keep clean). Really, they should have a tank that is at least 6 foot long and 18 inches wide, but a 75 (4 feet and 18 inches wide) would be the bare minimum. Anything narrower and the fish will have trouble turning around as goldfish get over 12-14 inches long if they are healthy. They will stay smaller if their growth is stunted, but this is extremely unhealthy for them and results in a much shorter lifespan. With a 75 or 90 gallon, be prepared to do 30-50% waterchanges every week (which should be pretty easy with a system like the python. You won’t need a heater, but you will need a great filter. I recommend a canister filter, but if that is out of your price range two of these or better yet two of these will work well. Goldfish are plant eaters so you won’t have to worry about plants, so you can get whatever light you like/what’s cheapest. Big tanks are expensive, but you can often find them used along with the stands (which saves a ton of money). You can also get a 75 gallon half off from Petco during the dollar-per-gallon sale, and then build your own stand (tons of plans online). For substrate, I would buy pool filter sand (very cheap and great for goldfish, it can’t get stuck in their mouths like gravel and it looks awesome, it’s easy to keep clean too). There are a lot of ways to cut costs, especially with a goldfish tank that doesn’t need a filter or fancy light. Feel free to ask any questions, and please do some research on the nitrogen cycle (introduction ) it’s the most important thing you can possibly learn as a new fishkeeper! You will need a test kit too, to test your water. Don’t bother with test strips as they are very inaccurate, go ahead and get this. If you want to cycle the tank quickly and without a hassle, this is the only one that really works. Welcome to the wonderful world of fishkeeping! Best of luck with your pet! Goldfish are lots of fun.


Edit: petsmart has a 75 gallon tank with stand, lid, and light for half off today for Black Friday (at $249 a screaming deal for a brand new tank!!) if you are interested.

u/Xyloiid · 4 pointsr/Aquariums

No no no, don't add a pleco. They are bad for goldfish as they find their slime coat quite tasty. Plus, goldies are cold water and basically every other fish type is warm water. With the shrimp and crayfish you are just going to be throwing your money away, they will die pretty quickly in a goldfish tank. It's a common misconception that fish like Cory's or Pleco's eat poop, but Cory's eat what the other fish miss that floats to the bottom and Pleco's eat algae and plants. You WILL get an algae bloom eventually, don't go buy a pleco, just work on scrubbing it off and taking care with water changes because pleco's are hard to take care of properly and don't belong with goldfish.

Add your second filter right now, and if you can, get some cycled filter media out of your current one to put into the new one, to help get the bacteria growing properly. That EX70 is definitely not big enough. You are going to need to be cycling 300+ gallons an hour, so you are probably going to need to get a third one or just invest in something in the 110 size or larger. Seriously, goldfish are a mess in small tanks. You might get something like the Quick Vac to help get the poop out in between water changes. I love my cleaner, it really helps (I do have a pleco, he's such a poop machine, I have to clean out his home a few times a week.)

u/TheShadyMilkman206 · 4 pointsr/bettafish

It is up to you what you want to do but a tank this size definitely at least needs a filter. To put things in perspective for you, on my 20 gallon tall I run this Ehiem 2215 Canister Filter. My tank also houses 8 female bettas and a ton of other life but this should illustrate how much variance can be in a tank this size. Even if you don't want to get a savage filter like the one I run you at least need to get either a massive sponge filter or a hang on back filter like this one

I know some advice on here would lead you to believe that no current is the best current in a Betta tank but in a tank this size, as long as they have places they can swim out of the current then a current is not only no problem, but is beneficial as you need sufficient water circulation.

Depending on what you decide to decorate with, you will also need a light.

Here is my 20 gallon tall: https://i.imgur.com/Qd2Vha0.jpg

u/GhostGunPDW · 4 pointsr/Aquariums

Tank: Looks like they have a newer version of my tank: https://www.innovative-marine.com/product-page/nuvo-fusion-peninsula-14-gallon

Skimmer: https://www.amazon.com/Aquatic-Life-Internal-Protein-30-Gallon/dp/B0028BPRMA

Heater (50W): https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/cobalt-neo-therm-submersible-heater.html a note on this, I've used the cheaper Aqueon/Tetra heaters and I found that they fluctuated. Tank would feel like warm bathwater and then cool down significantly, rinse & repeat- that's why I'd recommend spending a little extra for a good heater- those fluctuations will piss corals off.

Lighting: anything works for fish, but if you wanna go into corals in the future, you'll need a dedicated reef light. A good, cheaper option is AI Prime: https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/prime-16-hd-led-reef-light-white-body-aqua-illumination.html. I personally use a Kessil 160E, it's in the middle of the pack, sort of.

Flow: Wavemakers are cool, but unnecessary until you get corals. I'd get something cheap, like a Jabaeo. If you want high-end, Ecotech MP10. The stock return pump that comes with the tank is fine, but if you want to upgrade it, Sicce makes one.

Filtration: Have a bag of biomedia (brand is irrelevant, but I use MarinePure), and buy a packet of ChemiPure Blue nano: https://www.amazon.com/Boyd-Chemi-Pure-Blue-Nano-Aquarium/dp/B00VXIA3XM. Chemipure is basically super gucci carbon; carbon is good to have on hand for a reef, as it absorbs coral toxins and keeps everything happy.

Sand: Sand is personal preference. They have live sand and dry sand; I prefer dry sand, as it's cleaner. Live sand will make your tank look like milk for the first three days. This is the sand I chose: https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/aragonite-fiji-pink-dry-sand-40lbs-caribsea.html

Live rock: This stuff is hard to come by now. A lot of reef stores will have a vat of "live rock," but it'll mostly be white and pretty devoid of life. Back in the day, they'd ship rock straight from the ocean and it'd be covered in sponges, algaes, tunicates, all kinds of cool stuff- I loved this stuff for the little critters. However, you could also get pests from it, but that was a sacrifice I was willing to make. SO, I'd recommend that route if you can. It's kinda expensive, but this dude in Tampa can hook you up: https://tbsaltwater.com/. Just tell him the tank size and what you want.

If you don't wanna understandably go through all that hassle, get the LFS live rock and some bottled bacteria (I like Fritz TurboStart). Now, since that rock is mostly "white" and therefor uncolonized, it'll go through ugly phases, covered in icky types of algae. That'll last for a few months; eventually it'll all turn brown/green/purple and look natural though. If you get the real live rock from Florida, it already has that so you kinda skip the ugliness.

Either route you take, you could probably add fish after a week of setting up the tank, assuming it's cycled.

I'd recommend checking out BulkReefSupply on Youtube. They have a series, BRS 52 Weeks of Reefing, that's excellent for noobs. You'll learn a lot!

u/squirtmudbottom · 3 pointsr/Aquariums

I think this is a very common problem with cherry shrimp and small fry of all sorts. I have had this problem and while I'm not sure if the shrimp could just live in the filter, I'd strongly recommend you get a prefilter like this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255OZ4/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_awdm_nRFPub0M2BVCH
It made all the difference for my cherry shrimp and guppy community tank - allowing the population of both to boom!

u/angard2012 · 3 pointsr/Goldfish

I have the predecessor to this filter on a 55 gallon with African clawed frogs and a goldfish it works really well. Since you have a slightly larger tank it might be a good idea to add either another canister or an aquaclear HOB. Personally I would add an aquaclear 70 or 110

u/PixelVector · 3 pointsr/Aquariums

If you go H.O.B. I'd go for an aquaclear 110.

u/altum · 3 pointsr/Aquariums

If you don't want to go the canister filter method (which I highly recommend) I would go with an aquaclear. They're much better than these, and you can put whatever media you want in there so it's much more versatile than these. I had the penguin 350 and it's ok, but an aquaclear 110 would be your best bet. It's more expensive than these but far far far far better.

http://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-110-Aquarium-Power-Filter/dp/B000260FV6

However, like I said, canister is the way to go. I use one of these on my tank and it's amazing. I used to use ehiems, but these are much cheaper and work just as well http://www.amazon.com/SunSun-HW-302-3-Stage-External-Canister/dp/B00892EN22/ref=sr_1_3?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1426534978&sr=1-3&keywords=sunsun+canister+filter

u/CubbieBlue66 · 3 pointsr/Aquariums

First-timer in over his head here. Could use an assist with setup. The ultimate goal is setting up something my (soon-to-be) 2 year old daughter will enjoy watching.

Planning on purchasing:

Tank & Stand: Aqueon 45G tank ensemble - $250

Light: LED - Included with tank

Filter: MarineLand Penguin 200 Power Wheel - $21

Heater: Orlushy Submersible Aquarium Heater 150W - $18

Python: Python No Spill Clean and Fill Aquarium Maintenance System - $40, 24 inch adapter - $10, [hook] (https://smile.amazon.com/Python-Spill-Aquarium-Gravel-24-Inch/dp/B004PBHX4G/ref=pd_bxgy_199_img_2/146-3053739-1242457?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B004PBHX4G&pd_rd_r=42a7c2bc-877d-414d-b0c9-2960fa629e40&pd_rd_w=q7tkK&pd_rd_wg=fjx36&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=ZE4SB0SAMR7BKXT7Z4QW&psc=1&refRID=ZE4SB0SAMR7BKXT7Z4QW) - $20, and this adapter for my non-threaded faucet - $12

Conditioner: [API Water Conditioner] (https://smile.amazon.com/API-CONDITIONER-Aquarium-Conditioner-16-Ounce/dp/B004LO9KSY/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2SD31AR7OVW3V&keywords=water+conditioner+aquarium&qid=1567987105&s=gateway&sprefix=water+condition%2Caps%2C159&sr=8-3) - $7

Bacteria: [API Quick Start] (https://smile.amazon.com/API-CONDITIONER-Aquarium-Conditioner-16-Ounce/dp/B004LO9KSY/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2SD31AR7OVW3V&keywords=water+conditioner+aquarium&qid=1567987105&s=gateway&sprefix=water+condition%2Caps%2C159&sr=8-3) - $4

Test Kits: [API 5-in-1 Test Strips] (https://smile.amazon.com/5-IN-1-AQ-Test-Strips-100CT/dp/B077YS7Y4Y/ref=sr_1_3?crid=VPPBFJ1NJSMG&keywords=api%2Btest%2Bkit&qid=1567987538&s=gateway&sprefix=api%2Btest%2Caps%2C210&sr=8-3&th=1) - $26

That takes me up to $408. That leaves me about $100-150 in the budget my wife gave me to get decorations and the fish themselves. (It was supposed to be $500, but we always go slightly over budget)

Any recommendations on large and colorful fish that could attract and keep a toddler's attention? Preferably peaceful.

Any other recommended tweaks to the build? I haven't purchased anything yet, so I'm willing to completely scrap this and start over if somebody has a better idea of how to use the money.

u/HierEncore · 3 pointsr/fishtank

move the fish to a cup with clean water (bottled water ideal, or if its tap water, let it sit an hour or two to adjust to the room temperature)

then, empty that fish tank using a small bucket or cups of water.. whatever u have to do. then when its light enough to carry, dump the rest of the water outside or in the toilet and wash the tank real good in the tub. u can use bleach if u want, but make sure u rinse it for a full 5 minutes with water to make sure its clean. Any leftover cleaners can kill the fish.

look on amazon or at walmart for a cheap power filter. they are easy to use and work great. example: https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Whisper-Power-Filter-Three-Stage/dp/B001CHXJSK/

you hang it right on the edge of your tank. it'll replace the built-in filter, and it will work fine with what you have. you'll never have dirty water again and since u only have 1 fish, you'll only have to change the filter floss a couple times a year. make sure you dont overfeed the fish. only feed enough, so that everything is eaten within 5 minutes. if there is food left over after 5 minutes, you are feeding too much

good luck

u/audiobiography · 3 pointsr/Aquariums

For small display tanks, my favorite is to use a small canister filter.

I personally have a Zoomed 511 but there are starting to be more and more options on the market:


  • Finnex PX-360

  • Zoomed 501 or 511 (also sold as Turtle Clean)

  • TOM Aquarium Rapids Mini Canister

    Even the smaller Eheim Classics (I think the 2211 or the 2213) would work.

    For your water, make sure you use something to make it aquarium safe before adding it into your tank. My favorite is Seachem Prime, and the general consensus is that it's the best there is.

    Your little RCS should breed as long as you give them stable water conditions. The babies are also extremely small. One day you'll look over and notice that you have tons of shrimp out of nowhere. It's also a possibility that you have all males or all females (it happens!).

    As far as water changes, with that low of a bioload a good schedule would be to change something like 2 gallons once every two weeks.

u/trash_dragon · 3 pointsr/Aquariums

Just going to mention the fx6 is only $1.33 more on amazon at the moment.

u/[deleted] · 3 pointsr/bettafish


This one was recommended to me by my dear friend: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RFL4JMM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2JjjDb67EZ03K

It has 2 chambers so more spaces for BB. It says 10-40 gal but it has an adjustable outflow head, so you can easily put it below or over the surface of the water. It also suctions to the side of the tank.

Also, you'll need: air pump, airline tubing (some air pumps come with tubing but don't use it, it doesn't work well. Buy it separately), check valve, bleed valve, T connector.

u/racinglagoon · 3 pointsr/bettafish

I'd recommend a sponge filter! It has almost no pull to it so there's no danger of your bettas fins getting caught. it's gentle flow so the surface of the water will be very still which your betta will appreciate https://www.amazon.com/Hygger-Aquarium-Sponges-Submersible-Salt-Water/dp/B07RFL4JMM/ref=gp_aw_ybh_a_7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=AS5QC39E93N2YH1KEVTG&th=1

u/Chahk · 3 pointsr/Aquariums

Equipment:

  • Aqueon 13 gallon widescreen tank with hood
  • Random cheapo LED light bar
  • Hygger double sponge filter with media compartments (small)
  • 50W heater
  • Cobalt Aquatics MJ-400 DIY'd onto the sponge filter
  • USB air pump with air stone

    Plants:

  • 3 pieces of Cholla wood
  • Nice piece of driftwood found in my LFS
  • 2x Anubias
  • 1x Java fern
  • Lots of christmas moss and java moss glued to the wood and rocks.
  • Some other plant I forgot the name of (in the back). "Green" something-or-other.

    Inhabitants:

  • 5 Glofish Tetras of various colors, 1 Black Skirt Tetra, 1 White Skirt Tetra
  • Hillstream Loach. A fish store sold it to me as a "dwarf Pleco." Needless to say, I have since found a different store to call LFS.
  • 4x Amano shrimps. Used to be 5, but one crawled out of the tank last month.
  • 2x Cherry shrimps. Red one has hiding for a few days. Either molting, or giving me more fry. Tetras ate the last batch, so I re-scaped to give the little shimpies more of a chance.
  • Mexican Dwarf Crayfish.

    I plan to move this set-up to a 20-long tank some time soon to give these guys more room.
u/d8ne4m6 · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

This and similar kinds are good, different sellers sell them and check size, is it too small or too big for your tank. I had a couple of 10 gal rated, without biomedia section, in 5 gal tank.

Another possibility is Matten filter.

Anything air pump powered is louder, but with slowest possible and adjustable flow, if use double air valve.

u/bettab00000 · 2 pointsr/bettafish

Can you get Aqueon where you're at? Or even Aquaclear? Aqueon is an internal filter. You can get one with an adjustable outflow. Aquaclear is a hang on back, the small size goes up to 20 gal and works well according to reviews and vids I watch.

Otherwise, maybe a sponge filter is in order: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RKT6QPV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4-QwDbRVZZQXV

(all materials available on Amazon for ~$45): sponge filter, air pump, airline tubing (buy this separately, don't use the one that sometimes comes with the air pump kit as it's not reliable), check valve, bleed valve, T connector. Diagram: https://m.imgur.com/gallery/6GUliCb

You can find smaller sponge filters on Amazon that will fit your tank. The one I linked it quite tall for a 5 gal but extra filtration is always good.

As for the cartridge, it's charcoal which isn't needed to run 24/7. It's used to pull out pollutants or meds. But if you don't replace it, it leaches it back into the water. It's a waste of money. So we recommend bio media like sponge, filter floss, bio rings, etc. You rinse them out in tank water during wcs not tap.

u/kuhlifan · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

This one looks like it's made for larger filters

Filter-Max III Prefilter - for Aquariums over 40 Gallons

u/butterbal1 · 2 pointsr/aquaponics

Mount a sponge of some kind to catch the water before it splashes.

Something like (this)[https://www.amazon.com/Filter-Max-III-Prefilter-Aquariums-Gallons/dp/B000255OZ4/] could easily be mounted (assuming an air port) or just a standard filter sponge.

u/IdLikeToBuyAVal · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

I don't care for Marinelands and would suggest Aquaclears instead. All five of our tanks (plus our quarantine) have Aquaclears and all have been going strong for at least 3 years (a couple are going on five years). Our 125 gallon was purchased from Craigslist and came with Marineland Penguins like those above. IMO, the little biowheel isn't really big enough to make a difference, they're noisier than our Aquaclears and our Aquaclear 110 seemed to move a lot more water than the Penguin. Just my experience but I'd skip it and go for this (check out the gallon per hour rating to find the appropriate size for your tank).

u/cosalich · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

I would be inclined to go with the Classic (92 gallon version) over the Ecco. It's a simpler design with more room for filter media, and is better reviewed. On a personal note, I've owned mine for 18 months now and have had zero problems.

u/UrufuX · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

Cool! Thanks for the quick response :) yep was planning to upgrade. Currently looking at the 40 gallon of

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002AQXTA/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1449072880&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX110_SY165&keywords=canister+filter&dpPl=1&dpID=515qT1uNwXL&ref=plSrch&th=0

Does anyone use this filter? The reviews look good.

Edit: fixed link added some text.

u/Joooop · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

Here are some pictures from setting up the hardscape, as well as a close up of the plants

And here's some info!


Tank - mr aqua 12g long The back of the tank has been painted with plastidip.

Filter - Eheim 2215

Heater - Hydor 200w inline heater

Light - Current USA Satellite LED+. Have it dimmed to ~60% RGB/White on a memory setting.

Light stand - This off amazon which I had to bend a bit since it's narrower than the Satellite.

Pipes - Chinese lily pipes off ebay. Going to be replacing them with these stainless steel ones


----------------

Sand - Carib sea sand

Gravel substrate - Seachem Flourite

Rocks - Seiryu Stone I bought a few packs and have a good amount extra, just to use interesting pieces. Took a chisel to one rock to get smaller parts to work with.

Wood - 4 Pieces of small / medium spiderwood from my LFS. My LFS had a good selection and they let me configure some pieces to see how they'd work together.

-----------------

Plants:

  • Anubias Nana Petite
  • Cryptocoryne Parva
  • Cryptocoryne Wendtii Green
  • Java Fern Sp. Narrow
  • Anubias Nana Thick Leaf
  • Cryptocoryne Wendtii Red
  • Staurogyne Repens

    -----------------
    No fauna yet but I plan on moving my RCS over, and getting some micro crabs and possibly another type of shrimp!
u/monopticon · 2 pointsr/turtle

Supplies:

UVA/UVB Bulb and a basking light for warmth. [This combo bulb runs around $45.] (https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-PowerSun-Mercury-Vapor/dp/B0002AQDJK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1493336319&sr=8-2&keywords=zoomed+uva+uvb) Replace every 6-10 months.

A lamp to put it in. This one runs around $25.

Depending on your set-up, you may need a stand. Remember that the bulb is not effective if placed over glass. This stand runs around $25.


Depending on what kind of turtle you get your habitat can range in size (and cost). Some small breed turtles will get by in a 40g-55g habitat. If you get an aquarium it's important to get a sturdy stand that is level. An aquarium that is not level will run the risk of stressing the seams and "bowing". Leading to a leak or break.

Approximate cost of a habitat for a fully grown 5" turtle:
Could run you $155.00 pre-tax during $1/gallon sale with this stand and aquarium.
Or you could spend closer to $70 on a huge 110g stock tank that might be uglier, but you have way more room and could adopt a RES in need of a home. Or you could just have a super over sized habitat for a small turtle. Here's 50g one with different dimensions for a similar price.

Don't forget your canister filter! This one cost me $109.99 last year and has been an absolute dream. Your filter should be rated for twice the aquarium size. I have a 40g with a common musk adult. The canister is rated for a little over 90 so it works well for me. You can shop around.

You can price watch most items on amazon using camelcamelcamel.com to get the best deals for the most part.

You will also want a basking dock. These can vary in price largely because you can make your own for low cost or buy them for anywhere from $20-$60. I made my own using aquarium decorations so it wasn't free but I liked how it worked out.

So let's say all brand new items:
Stand and aquarium at Petco while on sale: $155.
Filter: $110
Bulb + lamp + stand: $95
Dock: $20

We're up to $380 (minus any taxes), minus purchasing a turtle, minus any food or other decorations you may want to purchase.

Stock tank instead of stand? Around $295 instead of $380.

My turtle is a common musk. Georgie is 19 years old this year. I would not be surprised if I have children in high school while Georgie is still alive. Captive kept turtles can live up to 4 decades and potentially longer.

So some big things to remember are: You're going to care for this turtle longer than you should care for your own children. You're going to be responsible for weekly/bi-monthly aquarium maintenance. You're going to still be spending money through out the year to care for your turtle. You will need space. If you're 17 and thinking of going off to college next year don't expect to be able to take your turtle with you and don't expect your parents to care for it properly.

A turtle should be considered a life long commitment. It is very difficult to rehome turtles properly and ensure their care with their new owner.

Good luck and check out Austin's Turtle Page for some turtle species if you live in America. That way you can get an idea for size and types of turtles and what kind of habitats they prefer.

Read-up and good luck!

u/floodingthestreets · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

Eheim 2215 is a great canister filter for your budget.

Are you actually finding sand in the impeller housing? If not, you may not even have the same impeller problem if you replace your current filter with another one of the same model.

u/Ralierwe · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

Sicce Whale 1 or 2 canister filters are good and can be kept out of the way, but pay attention to their hooks over the tank's rim, they are rather oversized.

Anything larger than this and what can be kept not at the tank level, but below it, is good. This is in the filter specifications.

It doesn't matter what you will keep, the content of the canister filter is more or less the same: mechanical filter media, follower by chemical, followed by biomedia. It could be customized too.

u/Imakedo · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

When you can purchase a 15 gallon from a box store or LFS for $15-20, the $200 circle tank seems gimmicky. Not only that but in an apartment it's going to require more surface area to place.

I found this post regarding round tanks regarding biOrb. In short other than visual distortion the study found there to be little difference. The typical issue people take with round tanks is that in the context it's usually referring to fish bowls under 1 gallon.

You do what what's right for your situation but I say save you money and picked a standard 15 gallon tank -$20, 100 watt heater -$20, Aerator -$10-15, Bio-wheel filter -$14, and finally lighting -$40.

Total cost comes out to $109 or $69 without the lighting.

You could also check craigslist for secondhand tanks. (I've never purchased a tank from a store) I got my 29 gallon and 36 gallon tanks with extra supplies for $20 each or $40 total so you can find good deals sometimes.

Most fish will prefer a longer tank than a tall one so if you're thinking tetras I'd strongly avoid the second tank you picked.

Lastly, because you mentioned it's a new aquarium, please look into nitrate cycling. It's a process that can cause new fish lots of stress if not done properly.

u/Wildcard35 · 2 pointsr/PlantedTank

Lights: One cheap, one expensive. I have the nicrew, it does fine for my 10g (in my post history)

NICREW DeluxeLED Aquarium Light, Full Spectrum LED Light for Planted Tanks, 20 to 24-inch, 18-Watt, 1200 LM, 7500K https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LJKNWS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xqXQAb6EVJ4YC

Finnex Planted+ 24/7 Fully Automated Aquarium LED, Controller, 20 Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U0HMWHW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_dsXQAbP4XB4J


Filter: One cheap option, one more expensive. You could probably downgrade the first filter for less gph (under 100) is probably better.

Marineland Penguin 200, Power Filter, 30 to 50-Gallon, 200 GPH https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009IODZG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_XsXQAb35KHD23

Finnex PX-360 Compact Canister Aquarium Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002VFF8U4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_UuXQAbQFZ3NTZ


Heater: Get two of these so you can heat up water for your water changes.

Aqueon Adjustable Submersible Aquarium Heater, 50W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000YAJJZS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ZvXQAbGD1J83W

u/702Cichlid · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

Under 100 bucks will be a little tricky, I think I can get close but having to buy a lighting fixture/hood will end up pushing it over.

  • 20 gallong Long aquarium (30 x 12 footprint) $32.99 @ petsmart(you might be able to find this cheaper with a glass top at a LFS where dollar per gallon on these smaller tanks is a little more common.

    Second Option 29 gallon - has the same dimensions and usually just a little more expensive--however, you might be able to find an all-in-one kit with a hood, heater, and HOB filter for about 100 bucks...if so, that's the way to go for sure.

  • Marineland LED full hood 30"x12" $35.99 @ Amazon with free shipping.

    2nd Option - Nothing cheaper right now.

  • Filter: Aqueon 50 $23.10 @ Amazon This gets even cheaper if you make your own filter media instead of using their cartridges. Aqueon are decent little filters, and for that price and GPH you'll have a tough time beating it.

    2nd option: Penguin 200 $25.49 with free shipping @ Amazon The penguin has more media options and more media volume even not counting the biowheel. But it is a much noisier filter. My true preference would be an Aquaclear 50, but they're just not on sale right now and we're on a budget.

  • Heater: Aquatop 100W for $14.99 @ Amazon . Aquatop is a bargain brand so this is a bargain product. But it's cheap and comes with free shipping.

    2nd Option - eheim jager 75W heater $24.27 @ Amazon eheim's last and are very reliable. I have a pair that are over 6 years old and still work great. Spending the extra money here would be worth it if you ever want to perhaps use the tank for something else down the road.

  • Thermometer - Going as cheap as possible here, and I always like the accuracy of an analog thermometer. $3.92 with free shipping at Amazon

    2nd Option - nothing cheaper that's anywhere near as close in the reliability/accuracy department.

    So, that puts my 1st option total @ $110.99 with shipping but without any applicable sales tax for a new set up. Now you can really find something on craigslist.org for cheaper often times, so it might be worth it to look around there--but a lot of that stuff i found is on sale currently so if you wait too long it would be gone.

    Now for the fish.

  • I would go with a pair of convict cichlids. They will breed every 2-3 weeks and if there's nothing else in the tank they can put out 100+ fry. Now with this set up they're never going to get very big without a grow out tank, but they will never eat their babies and they're pretty cool fish in their own right. They are also hearty so if you take care of the tank they'll live for several years breeding like bunnies.

    2nd option - Guppy tank with 2-3 males and 12-14 females. They will match the convicts for numbers and like the convicts they are very low in Thiaminase (which is super important for predator fish). They are relatively hardy but I find them to be super boring. They will also eat the heck out of their own babies. But on the plus side they're a bit dummer and slower swimmers than the convicts and with several harems you'll have a nicer sizing pattern on the fry that do survive.

    Which ever way you go make sure to put a sponge or some panty hose over your filter intake to keep from fry getting sucked up. Also, always gut load with a good quality food right before feeding. Something like New Life Spectrum Cichlid Formula for the convicts. This will make sure the Largemouth and Oscar are getting the optimum nutrition from the live food.

    Now that it's all said, you can actually breed your own earthworms for about 10 bucks in materials plus compost [Here's how to do that](
    http://www.herper.com/earthworms/earthworms-culture.html) and your fish will appreciate the live food variety.
    Hope this helped!
u/TheOvarianBarbarian · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

Hey thanks for helping. I currently have the Tetra PF10 filter. Would upgrading to a larger one help with the algae problem? Would a stronger one effect the Betta fish?

u/blooomseer · 2 pointsr/bettafish

Here’s an inexpensive filter I use and a heater . You’re gonna need a API master test kit. It’s recommended that you cycle your tank. You can do a fishless cycle in which you’ll need ammonia to start the cycle. Or you can do fish-in cycling and add him after you put the water in.
Bettas love plants! Silk or real plants are the way to go, you should avoid plastic because it will rip their fins. if you get real plans i suggest java fern because it’s super hardy

u/MegaMeatSlapper85 · 2 pointsr/ReefTank

So, I have a standard 20 long. For circulation I run a Polario 10ml. It's a little overkill, and a 7ml would probably be more ideal, but I love the circulation throughout the tank and that its current reverses every 20 seconds to simulate the natural ebb and flow of the ocean. My corals have responded well to the increased and random flow, and the fish dno't mind it either. In addition, the one time I had need of their customer service, they were excellent and prompt. I recommend them to everyone looking for a new circulation pump

I custom built my sump from acrylic because I had a limited space for it, but it holds about 9 gallons total. I keep 7 lbs of live rock rubble in my first chamber, along with an Aquaticlife 115 protein skimmer. The skimmer isn't too bad. I wish it would produce less liquid and more solid skimmate, but it does create a pretty good amount of dark water over a few days, so I've been happy with it. I have a chaeto chamber next which also houses a Deep Blue UV Sterilizer. It's definitely helped slow down how fast algae grows on the tank walls. I bought it to see if it would help slow down the bryposis I've had the gross displeasure of dealing with. I would buy it again.

I put a 6 inch DSB in the next chamber, but I'm not convinced it ever set up properly. It's still a work in progress. Finally, I have a Marineland NJ1100 return pump, and some random heater stick I found lying around. The pump isn't bad, but I might choose something a little more powerful should I ever need to replace it. All in all I'm pretty happy with the setup.

Edit: I also use the Kent 2-Part Nano Reef supplement. I definitely notice a large difference in growth rates and vibrancy when I slack off for a while.

Edit Edit: Oh, and I have assorted corals including Blastos, Montis, Zoas, Some Ricordea, Digitata, Trumpets, plus others I just don't know the names of. There's also a Mini-Maxi Carpet Anemone, Black Blenny, Scooter Blenny, Red-Lined Cardinal, and a Yasha Goby/Tiger Pistol pair. I do a 10% to 20% water change each week to help replenish trace minerals. It would all be phenomenal if it weren't for the bryopsis. But, that's on it's way out too.

u/waleedwale1 · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

Which filter? I suggest either a Fluval c4, or an aquaclear 50/70. Also, try to get some purigen. It reduce nitrates and your water will stay crystal clear and it is regenerable. You never need to buy activated carbon unless removing medication. I would try to get of the common gold fish. The other two would do just fine with those filters. If not, then up water changes.
http://amzn.com/B0002A5VK2
http://amzn.com/B000260FUW
http://amzn.com/B003SJXTIU
http://amzn.com/B000260FUM

u/Kairus00 · 2 pointsr/Aquariums
  1. Put him in a bucket with the old filter running if possible, and complete the move as fast as possible (no breaks).

  2. Yes, use the existing substrate and filter. I'd probably use as much of the existing water as well, small benefit to using it.

  3. That's fine.

  4. I'd nix the under gravel filter and get one or two of these. Great price on amazon. Easy to set up and maintain.

  5. Nope, nothing special. Just get the gourami settled first.
u/SilikonBurn · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

Presently, this filled with ammonia stones and two 8", incredibly lazy plecos.

u/okdotdotdot · 2 pointsr/Jarrariums

There's a $40 off amazon. You might find the same cheaper on eBay but shipping will take longer from Hong Kong. Zoo Med Nano 10 External Canister Filter, up to 10 Gallons https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DGHRU2

I personally use this $12 for my mini aquariums.
Elite Underwater Mini Filter, UL Listed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009YD7D4

But I have shrimp and fish livestock. Love that model, been using it for over 10 years.




u/blackpony · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

whats your budget? with cichlids you usually want to over stock them so they dont single out one another. so you need more filtering than normal. depending on where this was going i would get a 55 and build it in to a sump. for a 180 gal you want 7-10 water changes an hour so so 1260-1800 GPH total filtering.

i have one of these on my 55 you could get 2 of them and use your current filter as well and be doing it decently. you could also look at getting a FX6 they are really highly rated.

u/Kr_Treefrog2 · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

For filters I'd go with two Fluval FX6's or two SunSun HW-304B's. Either of those will give you at least 8x overturn per hour. Or you could drill it and do a sump system.

The cheapest substrate would be sand from a local hardware store. My favorite so far is a pure white sand in 50 lb. white paper bags from Menards. Other people prefer black blasting sand, play sand, or pool sand. All work equally as well. As cichlids require hard water, you could use aragonite sand to help buffer the water, but a tank that size needs around 200 lbs. of sand and would get expensive quickly. There's also contractor's sand that is actually small pebbles. You can always go with the chunky gravel sold in pet stores. Or, if you're planting your tank, you could go with a dirted tank topped with sand or small gravel.

Throw in some cichlid stones, driftwood, or rocks to spruce up the decor a bit. Good luck!

u/nyquill81 · 2 pointsr/turtle

I have a sunsun canister filter and it is almost completely silent. The one I linked is rated for 100 gallons of water, so really would only be good for about a 50 gallon tank, which is probably too small for your turtle. Get one rated for double the volume of water. And if cost is an issue, consider a stock tank instead of an aquarium. They’re not as pretty but they are perfectly adequate turtle homes, and a 100 gallon one runs about $75 at most local farm supply stores.

u/OneBlueAstronaut · 2 pointsr/PlantedTank

if it looks like there's an oil slick on the surface of the tank.

I use a surface skimmer as the inflow for my canister filter.

There are also stand alone surface skimmers, and for some people, running an airstone is enough to break up the surface slick.

The biofilm isn't a big issue unless you're running Co2, because when you run CO2 you want to maximize gaseous exchange to avoid gassing your fish when your water becomes oversaturated with Co2. Otherwise the biofilm will make floating plants a little easier to kill and looks a bit ugly but is basically harmless otherwise. Some fish and shrimp like to eat it.

u/csimon1 · 2 pointsr/bettafish

I just find sponges a lot easier for small setups. I really like these corner ones as they aren’t as obtrusive as the round or cube ones.

u/nickyidkwhat456 · 2 pointsr/bettafish

sponge filter air pump

So a sponge filter will help filter the tanks and aerate the surface and since Bettas really don’t like flow this filter won’t really bother them much. You would need this air pump with it and this is the quietest inexpensive one I know but you could go cheaper if you don’t mind the noise. This is the most inexpensive set up I know of and if you’re ever able to get a bigger tank this will fit in it fine.

u/Ganrokh · 1 pointr/Aquariums

Does anyone have any experience with using this pre-filter intake with a Fluval FX4?

u/CyberCoyote67 · 1 pointr/Aquariums

Its a Filter Max 3, it fits nicely on the ac110, I had to use rubber gaskets and other tricks to get them to fit the smaller filters and powerheads I have. https://www.amazon.com/Filter-Max-III-Prefilter-Aquariums-Gallons/dp/B000255OZ4

u/XombieJuice · 1 pointr/Aquariums

Okay, so Amazon has this Aquaclear 110. From reading the description, do I really need to replace all 3 media that often? (Carbon every month, foam filter every 2 months, biomax every 3 months) Or like /u/CFHQYH says and I can get away with just rinsing them?

And is there a specific sponge that fits over the intake?

u/SadOscar · 1 pointr/Aquariums

AquaClear 110 Hang on back filter issue: Water outlet pressure continually decreases

I've noticed a recent issue with my Fluval HOB filter I've had running for a little over a year. The water outlet pressure is good for a couple days then slows down to a trickle. I have a prefilter that I clean every time I notice it slow down but the frequency I have to clean it is abnormal. I've taken the filter apart, made sure the impeller is clean (it was slick with algae), and double checked the well cover is set properly - the flow rate is still decreasing. This is a sanity check - help.

LINK for filter

LINK for help forum I read

Thank you

u/imtheninja · 1 pointr/PlantedTank

[I was looking at this filter, I just dont know what pump to pair it with] (EHEIM Classic Canister Filter 2213, Classic 250 - PetOverstock https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002AQXTA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NBazDbY6HX186)

u/vagrantsoul · 1 pointr/aquarium

hob - aquaclear 20 is really quiet

----

hybrid: KollerCraft TOM Rapids Mini Canister Filter

link:

http://www.amazon.com/KollerCraft-Rapids-Mini-Canister-Filter/dp/B000YJ0M1E/ref=sr_1_50?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1463721894&sr=1-50&keywords=sunsun+canister+filter

-----

Canister: Eheim: http://www.amazon.com/EHEIM-Classic-External-Canister-Filter/dp/B0002AQXTA/ref=sr_1_14?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1463722046&sr=1-14&keywords=canister+filter


or if you need to save a few bucks:
SUNSUN HW-602B

suggest putting foam around the pump portion of this one, as it is known to vibrate a little...

u/steel_builder · 1 pointr/Aquariums

Thinking about buying a canister filter for my 20G tanks. I have aspirations for upgrading to a 55 gallon in some point in the future so I'd like to have something that could handle both. This Ehiem filter is for sale on Amazon for $79.99 and is rated for 66gallons. Wouldn't have any issues with over filtering? Or would the filter media just last forever?


http://www.amazon.com/EHEIM-Classic-External-Canister-Filter/dp/B0002AQXTA?psc=1&SubscriptionId=AKIAJ7T5BOVUVRD2EFYQ&tag=camelbrowser-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B0002AQXTA&th=0

u/bumbux · 1 pointr/Aquariums

What does your price range look like? I'd second the aquaclear 50 if you don't want to spend that much money. If you have the cash, get a cannister filter like this one http://www.amazon.com/EHEIM-Classic-External-Canister-Filter/dp/B0002AQXTA/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1427524285&sr=8-6&keywords=cannister+filter

u/dabom101 · 1 pointr/PlantedTank
u/oldmanfris · 1 pointr/PlantedTank

definately get a new filter, what's working on the 20 won't support the 75 once you get more life in there.

Based on a recommendation here, i picked up an Eheim for my 40g. my HOB filter was rated above my tank size, but the canister just blows it away. immediate impact on water clarity.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002AQXTA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


u/arbitrarysquid · 1 pointr/Aquariums

I have this Eheim rated for 92 gallons on my 55 gallon tank and I love it.

I had several Fluvals and I like the Eheim better.

u/Drthump · 1 pointr/BuildMyTank

I run a dual setup in my 40 gallon long tank; a canister alongside a HOB. I love this setup and recommend it to anyone for larger tanks. It gives you the large size of the canister filter for a good amount of bio media, but you also have the HOB to add any small little things you need to for the tank. For example, in my HOB, I run filter floss, foam, and purigen. While in my canister I run bio balls, foam, and PhosGuard. Oh and I should mention that the HOB I use is an AquaClear 50, and the canister is an Eheim Classic 2215.
Specs on those:
Eheim:
164 GPH
Total Filter volume of 1.1 Gallons
Rated for tanks up to 92 US Gallons
AquaClear
200 GPH max (depends on how much filter media is inside)
Rated for tanks up to 50 gallons

u/Lifegear · 1 pointr/Aquariums

Ive heard about some people squeezing a Zoo Med Canister Filter in the back of the Fluval Edge. It doesnt seem to really fit though, it will give a small curve to the back casing.


I did a lot of research on how to improve the filtration system of the Fluval Edge 12G without any mods or without changing it's original look, the conclusion is...keep it stock! Upgrading the media filters is pretty much the only thing you can do.

u/MuppetPirate · 1 pointr/nanotank

This is a great filter and small enough that it would probably hook easily over the lip even though the tank is round, unless you're planning to use something really tall and narrow.

If you're looking for an external filter, I've heard great things about [this nano canister filter] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DIRPU) thought I haven't actually used it myself. Might be too much power, but I think it's the smallest canister on the market.

You might also consider going air pump powered, there are some nice small air powered filters like [this one] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000634IYU). You could also consider [this mini undergravel filter] (https://www.bigalspets.com/lee-s-round-under-gravel-bowl-filter-large.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&adpos=1o2&scid=scplp53073&sc_intid=53073&gclid=CjwKEAjwvr3KBRD_i_Lz6cihrDASJADUkGCaTTOFNe6J9_Z6EqRUbX8hjIOqi6ntn6gkZNujK11ziRoCKP_w_wcB) (and just ditch the fake plant) but I know most folks tend to stay away from UGFs in planted tanks.

u/Pablorce · 1 pointr/Aquariums

i might suggest this http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Turtle-Canister-Filter/dp/B0002DIRPU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1333263231&sr=8-1

It says it's for turtles but it's doing a fine job in my 4.4 gallon cube. not a heavy flow as you would think it would but and its nice and silent. i had to cut down the spray bar a bit to fit it how i wanted.

u/junkpile1 · 1 pointr/PlantedTank

This is a good deal if you go with the free shipping.

http://www.amazon.com/pet-supplies/dp/B0002DIRPU

u/devbag · 1 pointr/poecilia

Happy cakeday! I've upgraded my filter to one that can handle up to 30 gallons (https://www.amazon.com/Marineland-Penguin-Power-Filter-70-Gallon/dp/B0009IODZG/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=fish%2Btank%2Bfilter&qid=1564378467&s=gateway&sr=8-3&th=1). So hoping I'm good on that front.

u/Bamka · 1 pointr/Aquariums

It's been established for about 6 months, I added the fish pretty gradually. The only ones I added within a day or so of each other were the cats, because I got one albino and he looked lonely, and I got a couple different batches of tetras because I wanted them to school.

I use this guy for filtration. I have a bubble curtain rod thing in the back for air circulation. The tank is at about 75 degrees right now.

u/Jeeeepy · 1 pointr/Aquariums

Hi everyone,

I got some questions for my first fishtank.

I got a 29gal aquarium and I want to start it. I plan to buy this filter (Marineland, Penguin 200 (30 to 50G) and this heater (Pawfly 200W). I'm buying this kit and this stress coat from API. I have a cleaning kit and some decos. Should I buy something else?

I would like to stock my aquarium with a Betta as the centerpiece. I've read online that some other species can live with him, what y'all think?

Thanks!

u/ShittyComicGuy · 1 pointr/PlantedTank

So this is what i have gathered so far if you don't mind double checking for me.



Light



Tank



Filter (the 280)



On a sidenote i realize that the filter is a little big and the light may be overkill for this tank but i also don't plan on giving up at this and plan on moving up to a bigger tank down the road.

u/FullLegalUsername · 1 pointr/Goldfish

Do you have a recommendation? I need to buy one. That and a hood. I was looking at this even if I have only one fish.

edit: screwed up the link. It's late.

u/deeretech129 · 1 pointr/Aquariums

I haven't given that much thought. I would like to spend under 200 bucks if I can (on the stand only). I live in a very rural area so I'm limited to amazon or building something myself. I assumed 50 bucks for a filter and I wasn't sure what the lighting would run, though.


Probably one of these two.

*https://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-06079-QuietFlow-Filter-400-GPH/dp/B004GX47TW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475069578&sr=8-1&keywords=75+gallon+filter

https://www.amazon.com/Marineland-Emperor-Bio-wheel-Power-Filter/dp/B000HHOI8G/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1475069578&sr=8-3&keywords=75+gallon+filter

u/dmacintyres · 1 pointr/Aquariums

The dimensions of most filters can be [found] (http://www.amazon.com/Emperor-Series-Bio-wheel-Power-Filter/dp/B000HHOI8G) on their Amazon page for future reference!

u/RetroZhurk · 1 pointr/Cichlid

Thank you so much for this info! I actually looked into the aqua clear 50's and also 70's. Another user, MoistDiapers mentioned that I could use 2 or just 1 powerful filter, so I was thinking about using just one, the Marineland emperor 400, what do you think about that?

EDIT: This is the filter I read many good reviews about, along with the 50's that you recommended.

u/AndAnAlbatross · 1 pointr/turtle

He has a 55 gallon long with a fairly high waterlevel 3/4 tank filled. The filtration has been giving me some trouble lately -- it's an emperor 400 w/ biowheel (the impeller started giving me trouble last wednesday, only moving a fraction of the water it was before, but that doesn't fit the timeline of the issue). Foam basking dock, water temp is fluctuating between 76 - 79 in the day to night cycle.

I use the big rubbermaid basket in the picture as a feeding tub, filled with aquarium water.

His diet before I got him was 1-2 shrimp and about a tablespoon of turtlefood 5 times a week. That seemed like a lot to me.

I'm cutting that way back to a teaspoon of turtlefood every 4 days with treats once a week. I leave dried cranberries in his main tank for 2 days at a time, but that's part of his diet inspection. And I plan on doing a once a week calcium supplement, since this guy seems to be packing on 5-15% more new grown than what the literature says I should be expecting.

I'm considering switching him to goldfish since I'm so worried about his shell growth, but realistically I won't be able to tolerate that for more than a few months. Messy eaters.

The aquarium lights are special but I don't know their spec. Nor do I know the spec of the heating lamp. I know the previous owner was well aware of the lighting requirements, I'll try to get that info as soon as possible.

u/ta2smitty · 1 pointr/Aquariums

I'm running 2 Emperor 400's on mine with zero problems.
http://www.amazon.com/Emperor-Series-Bio-wheel-Power-Filter/dp/B000HHOI8G

u/Frostieprivates · 1 pointr/bettafish

I’m not 100% certain on this but I believe it’s this one https://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-06081-QuietFlow-Filter-125GPH/dp/B000SP340U. I got an Aqueon 13 gal Kit and the filter looks exactly like the one linked.

u/-Monarch · 1 pointr/Aquariums

this is the filter I have .. it uses carbon .. how should I do filter changes to preserve the bacteria?

EDIT: If I understand correctly the part of the filter that "houses" the bacteria isn't actually replaced when you change the cartridge?

u/VottaKorn · 1 pointr/turtle

If you just buy a bigger filter - see below link for $15ish - it will keep the tank clean so you only have to lightly clean it once every 10 days or so.
https://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-06081-QuietFlow-Filter-125GPH/dp/B000SP340U

u/fuzzysqurl · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

You can get an idea of how much is actually tank based on the gravel at the bottom and where the hang on back filter is (the black tube is the intake. That would generally be about a finger width from the back).

That particular filter is also only rated for 5-10 gallons, so if by chance the tank was larger the filtration would be inadequate.

So let's guess how large the tank actually is:
A square tank that is 15.8 x 15.2 x 17.6 inch, which are the dimensions of the iMac G3, would only be 18 gallons. However, the shape is more trapezoidal than square and the tank is inside of the case.

For the sake of simplicity lets say the Front is 17'' and it is 15'' tall/15'' deep. The back of the tank looks to be approximately half of the front of the tank so I'll say 9''. The trapezoidal prism would then be 2925 cubic inches, which translates to just over 12 gallons. And this is definitely overestimating because the tank is a good 3 inches shorter than the case of the iMac plus the water level isn't completely full. I'd guess if you were to actually measure you'd be lucky to break 7 gallons of liquid.


EDIT: I replied to this out of my inbox and didn't see someone else in the comments calculated their estimate at about 5.5 gallons.

u/ZazzieTheBeast · 1 pointr/PlantedTank

I'm using the
Tetra Whisper PF10 Filter and it's absolutely silent.

I was recommended this AquaClear one also! In hindsight, the clear would have looked a lot better.

u/how_fedorable · 1 pointr/bettafish

hiya, please remove the affiliate tag from your amazon link (it's the tag= bit), or post a clean link (like this: https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-26316-Whisper-Filter-5-10-Gallon/dp/B001CHXJSK).

u/donut_warfare · 1 pointr/bettafish
u/davidoffbeat · 1 pointr/ReefTank

Intenal, but I have this in my 20g and it works well. Lot of people complain about micro bubbles but they mostly went away after a few days.

u/thefishestate · 1 pointr/ReefTank

I would have thought this one but it doesn't look exactly right.

u/redditpineapple81 · 1 pointr/Aquariums

If you're willing to go above, I've heard great things about this Fluval C4 HOB. It's only $20 more too.

I'm a huge fan of Fluval. At least in my experiences, I've never been let down. I'm actually running a 306 canister for my 55 gallon right now and it's working wonders. Those canisters can be upwards of $300 dollars though, so if it were up to me I'd go with any Fluval HOB that has an equal or higher capacity than your tanks size, though preferable higher. It's always better to go above and beyond with filters. They're the instrument that dictates whether your fish are in clean water or not, which can mean life or death.

They way you described your water, I'd replace the filter as soon as possible. It sounds really old and worn out.

Good luck!

u/NeedsMoreMagic · 1 pointr/Aquariums

Refugiums are kind of like Wet/Dry filters, but you're right in there being more than just those! (The one I linked is one that a friend's been using.)

The The Fluval C4 has a small wet/dry area. Pretty good filter, too!

u/aso217 · 1 pointr/Aquariums

I have two filters in my 65 gallon tank, fully stocked (according to aqadvisor)

  1. Aqueon Quiet Flow 75 (HOB filter) Includes all the stuff you see here: https://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-06079-QuietFlow-Filter-400-GPH/dp/B004GX47TW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485760076&sr=8-1&keywords=aqueon+quietflow+75

  2. Aqueon 30-gallon Quiet Flow Internal Filter. Includes: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0092QJTD2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    What is the best filter media to place in these two filters? Is the stuff that came prepackaged with these filters sufficient for my tank's eventual full bioload from approx. 24 total comprised of mollies, swordtails, platys, and corys? Can I shove additional media into the back of the HOB, and if so, what should/can it be?

    Thanks for any input.

    (The tank was a present from my girlfriend, totally unexpected, and I started buying stuff without doing any research. I originally thought the 75g rating was excessive for my needs, but I wanted to err on the side of overfiltration... I bought the internal filter a few days ago to bridge the gap)
u/pink_mango · 1 pointr/Aquariums

This is my favourite HOB filter. I have one in my 27g tank. I've had pretty much every kind of HOB filter and this is the best IMO. There is lots of room for to shove extra filter media in there. It also has this sort of "bridge" thing as it's pouring into the water so it makes it a little quieter.

You could do a dwarf puffer tank for a 20g. You could have 3 or 4. They are really small and full of personality. But you wouldn't be able to have any other fish/inverts in there. They are meat eaters and will try to eat anything they can.

I would probably do a community tank. That way you can have a range of fish. You could get a group of cories going (they like to be kept in groups, 6 is good) and get some tetras (again, groups 6+. My fav are cardinal tetras), guppies (careful to only get males unless you want babies every month), rasboras are really pretty too.

I'm thinking loaches (at least the ones I know of, there could be small ones) will be too large for a 20g tank.

Shrimp are great too. Just obviously make sure you don't have fish in there that will eat them. I think all of the fish I mentioned will leave them alone.

I am always a fan of a planted tank. There are many easy plants that you can get. This site has tons of plants and tells you a little about them, you can even search by easy, low-light plants.

As far as the hood, personally I don't care for hoods. I think it's a little bit of a dated look. I like the flat glass tops like these and they are also very easy to take off when doing maintenance. But that is your own personally opinion of what you want to have up there.

As far as maintenance is concerned, I do weekly water changes. One week I'll just change out some water (usually 25-30%). Next week I'll do some gravel vacuuming. 3rd week I'll finish the gravel vac. It's not a good idea to clean all of the gravel at once, there is a lot of beneficial bacteria in the gravel and if you clean it all at once you risk sending your tank into a mini cycle as the bacteria replenishes itself.

One last thing. With filters, I never keep the carbon cartridge in the filter. I have clean water up here so there is no need for it. I always keep one on hand just in case (they are great for taking medications out of your tank, but I never use medications; there's usually a better, natural way to fix diseases). The instruction box will tell you to change it out every month. This is a huge waste of money and every time you throw out that much filter media you will most likely send your tank into a mini cycle. What I do in all of my tanks (I have 4) is take the carbon out and jam the filters full of filter floss. It comes in big rolls that costs a couple dollars, and will last you forever. Once it's in there you don't ever need to take it out, until it is literally falling apart. If you find that water isn't really getting through because it's too gunky, take it out and rinse it in either tank water that you have taken out during cleaning, or in treated new water (prime is the best dechlorinator). Don't rinse it in regular untreated water or you will kill all of the good bacteria.


Hopefully all of this is helpful. I have a tendency to go a little over board and give way too much info. But it's good to know lots of info :) Good luck!

u/necropaw · 1 pointr/Aquariums

Alright...time to start typing out this monster.

Ive been reading guides and stuff, but i have a terrible memory when reading things, and theres some stuff i want to double check, etc.

Im looking to set up my old 29 gal tank from when i was a kid (its been empty for 10+ years). My goal is to do a planted tank with primarily tetras and shrimp...maybe a pleco and perhaps another type of schooling fish.

I probably wont be able to start cycling for ~2 weeks or so, though by the time i buy stuff on amazon, etc thats probably a decent timetable.

This light was suggested to me by another user. Should be sufficient for growing plants in a low tech system, right?

Ive seen various numbers for how 'oversized' a filter should be. Right now im kinda looking at these two (1) (2). Any comments on brand? It looks like i can get either one in bigger/smaller sizes. 400gph seems like it might be a bit overkill...but is 250 too low?

Ive read that often the agitation in the surface water by the filter is enough to provide sufficient gasses to the plants/fish...do you think that ill be true in a low tech tank? Would an aerator help? I dont think i'll mind having bubbles coming up in the background if it will, but am i overthinking this?



I wish i had saved more links on substrate and sand and all. Any recommendations for substrate for plants? Would probably like black stuff. I think this is the one i had read about being good?

Thinking about doing a bit of gravel in the tank, but i'd also like to do some sand. Maybe something like 2/3 sand (maybe a couple different types?) and then the rest gravel? Thoughts/concerns?

I thought i had read somewhere that people often use blasting sand (rinsed well)....anyone have comments on that? I could probably get some for cheap from work, though im not sure i want dark sand...


Best place to get a larger piece of driftwood? Ive looked around online a bit and have seen a ton of different sites and whatever, but was wondering if anyone had a suggestion for where to go. Im probably going to want one big piece, and then i can get smaller pieces from wherever.


I assume when im doing water changes and stuff im going to want to bypass our water softener? Our water is supposed to be pretty hard, do i want to maybe mix softened with unsoftened? (ive seen a lot of stuff about adding minerals to pure RO water, but havent seen much on softeners)




Im sure ill think of more, but this should at least be a good start...

Edit: Best place to get rocks and stuff? I'd like a couple for a natural look, im just not sure where to get them. I could get some red granite around here, but im not sure how that'd work, and it seems like it'd be really heavy...?

u/diabetic_debate · 1 pointr/PlantedTank

I would say look at a small canister filter like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DGHRU2

On my 5g betta tank, I found HOB filters took too much clutter and restricted the types of lights you could use. For example, you can't use the Finnex line as one side of the tank is blocked by the filter.

With a canister, you can run clear plastic tubing in and out of the tank and keep everything tidy.

u/hello_I_am_a_puffin · 1 pointr/PlantedTank

I just got this heater for my 7gallon cube. It’s only been a few days, but it’s so small and looks great in the tank! There’s also a 50w version. If you get it though, don’t make the mistake I did - there’s a sticker on the thermostat of the heater indicating its voltage. I didn’t realise it was a sticker and put it in my tank, and well, the sticker started to dissolve and there were little strands of adhesive floating all up in that water. Luckily there’s nothing else in there at the moment. But I was kicking myself as I did a rather annoying clean out.

I’ll be doing a Walstad, so I won’t have a filter to worry about, but you could think about strategically hiding a small sponge filter in with some plants or decor, using a corner mattenfilter, or using a nano canister filter (with or without lily pipes). I see this canister mentioned a lot, but I haven’t used it myself. I think SunSun also makes a nano canister which I see mentioned a lot too.

As far as internal filters are concerned, it sounds like they can be hit or miss. Unless you find one that you really like the look of, I’d try to find a canister filter first. :)



Edits: it’s late. I can’t type.

u/Meshuggahn · 1 pointr/PlantedTank

I will second the Penn Plax recommendation. Great balance between cost, performance, and reliability. If you really want a cheap canister though grab a sunsun. They work well enough, but are lesser quality which may cost more in the long run.

Cascade 500

Sunsun

u/kkuehni · 1 pointr/Aquariums

Canister Filter this 1 is under $60. I have one from the same company on my 20L tank. Have had no problems with it.

u/slimey_frog · 1 pointr/Aquariums

Ive been reading up, what one do you recommend? im currently eyeing one of these but dont know if thats not enough/too much for my tank.

u/labrat84 · 1 pointr/Aquariums

Personally i had a Aquaclear 70 on my 29 gallon and replaced it with a SunSun HW-303B canister filter and would never go back to a HOB. it is definitely overkill, but i had horrible green water and needed a filter with UV. It is amazingly quiet and keeps the water crystal clear with Purigen and Seachem Matrix in addition to the media it came with. I think it was around $90 shipped from Amazon for the pro-kit

u/Laserdollarz · 1 pointr/Aquariums

I have a new canister filter being delivered early next week. I'm going to have to re-organize and clean everything up soon... But it was only $36 on friday and I'm hella excited for it.

u/florencethefish · 1 pointr/Aquariums

Anyone try the AZOO Surface Aquarium Skimmer? I'm trying to reduce biofilm in my fluval spec v. I only have one male betta and have tried to mod the intake and skim the top with a net. Even if I point the outflow at the top, film still develops. I also feel bad because I have a lazy boi who gets blown off his leaf hammock if I leave it like that.

u/Mmelkhatib · 1 pointr/PlantedTank

Hi All! First time poster here and I am loving this subreddit!

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I am 7 weeks into my 10 gallon planted and my MC carpet has started to take off- albeit quite unevenly and patchy in some areas. Part of this is likely due to some ammonia die off and melting when I flooded the tank (no dry start here).

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I don't know if I should let it grow out more before trimming it,

or start trimming it now to encourage horizontal spread.

Could the sand cap be a problem?

Could it be flow? I am using an corner nano filter (Dennerle Nano Filter which came with this set). Thought about replacing it with an Eheim Cannister 2211 or...

look into keeping the existing corner filter and adding a nano, standalone surface skimmer which may help with adding more circulation.

​

My setup:

10 Gallon Hi-Tech Dirted tank with pool filter sand cap and clay tabs

Thrive dosing 3x a week.

CO2 8 hours about 1-1.5 bps

Light: 9 hours (4 hours on- 2hr siesta, 5 hours evening).

Light Fixtures: Asta Light and Finnex Planted + clip on (about 1.5w/gallon).

NO3 is about 10ppm

Bioload is 6x Dwarf Cardinal Minnows, 4 Sparkling Grouamis and 4 Nerite Snails

Filter: Denerrle Nano Filter (came with the scapers set- I love it).

Here's a FTS if anyone's interested

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNdo5JN_yrYwJqbfpz2dqcT4D604xpM2tv9QNztfHGSMU0bPTwbhEs3MN97fSsvbA?key=WkVWMngxWm9sdHFMd1NPRGhrVDdnUGtwNHIxcWxB

​

Feedback is appreciated!

​

edit: grammatical corrections

edit: adding info about filtration

u/gratua · 1 pointr/Jarrariums

hrm. well, I have something very similar to this and the listed dimensions put it at half the size of this other one. is there a reason for the complication in this style you linked?

I'm starting to lean towards just buying a small natural sponge and just shoving a hose into it myself.

u/shareteaa · 1 pointr/bettafish

For the 5-10 gallon sponge filter, just to be sure: you are saying that the airline tubing, air pump, and check value does not come with the sponge filter? I purchased this one
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M4I99Q9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Wkg8Cb3XSBEBC

and it came with only the parts shown in the images. Is it a good sponge filter? What else would I need for it?

u/Shackdad · 1 pointr/bettafish

What do you think of this sponge filter(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RFL4JMM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7MdsDb3VSQ8XH). It already comes with the filter media. I think I'm going to go with the Tetra Whisper 20 air pump (I like the ability to a second tank in the future without having to buy another pump.

u/POSDSM · 1 pointr/axolotl

Hygger Aquarium Double Sponge Filter, Comes with 2 Spare Sponges, 1 Bag of Bio Ceramic Media Balls, Quiet Submersible Foam Filter for Fresh Water and Salt-Water Fish Tank (M) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RKT6QPV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pqYuDb1YNDK5D

u/MrMarzar · 0 pointsr/Aquariums

I use this:

https://www.amazon.com/SunSun-Hw303B-370GPH-Canister-Filter/dp/B00MH2NRIQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1486763002&sr=1-1&keywords=303b

on my 55 gallon. It's worked out pretty nicely. I got a kit that came with the penguin 350 and it was pretty loud for the living room. The canister filters are VERY quiet.