Best aquarium pumps & filters according to redditors
We found 4,472 Reddit comments discussing the best aquarium pumps & filters. We ranked the 1,019 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 4,472 Reddit comments discussing the best aquarium pumps & filters. We ranked the 1,019 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Get this:
https://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC
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The tank looks like a 2.5 gal. So here's a list of some inexpensive things you can grab to make him love his new home even more!:
If you get all of these from the links it should run you somewhere around $20.
Bettas really shouldn't be kept in bowls. There is no filtration so they are being poisoned by their poop. There isn't enough water so they cant swim and their waste is more toxic quicker. They are also tropical fish and should have a heater to keep the water around 78F.
I know you are on a budget but I STRONGLY recommend getting a much larger tank. Right now Petco is having a $ per gallon sale so you should pick up a 10 gallon tank (I don't think the 5 gallon qualifies) for $10. Get a good heater (The one thing you shouldn't skimp on...don't want any cooked fish) Also pick up a sponge filter like this and a cheap air pump. If you want some cheap lighting you could do desk lamps with normal light bulbs. This pretty much covers the essentials of what you need to buy. On a side note though if you buy any plants don't buy plastic as they will rip your bettas fins to shreds insted pick up some silk plants.
Also I would recommend reading up on some basic betta care and this quick overview Also read up on the nitrogen cycle and some general information
Side note- you should look into getting your dad a Python aquarium water changer. Hooks up to your faucet and can both empty and fill the tank for you. I got my dad one because he’s got a slipped disk in his back and couldn’t carry his buckets anymore.
I haven't seen anyone give an extensive, quick, and friendly guide so here's a quick one!
You're going to need a 5.5 gallon in order for him to thrive, otherwise you're gonna have a very unhappy fish who might live but will not be doing good. An aquarium is a tiny ecosystem in an enclosed space, so a .5 gallon gets very toxic, very quickly. It'll hurt his gills, it'll hurt his fins, just everything. The ammonia will buildup quickly and reach very dangerous levels, and although 100% water changes will decrease that, an established bacteria colony (made up of harmless ones) needs to be there for the fish to really be healthy!
When you see a happy and healthy betta, you will never want to go back!
Cheap quick solution for now: Five gallon Rubbermaid from Walmart, this filter, paired with this air pump, and this connector tube. It will run you about $20, and can hold for a while!
Long Term: Buy a 5.5 standalone aquarium tank from Petsmart (only $14.99) and a little pack of gravel, and some live plants of your choice! Check our r/aquaswap for some cheap plants from other Reddit users. Just move over the filter and heater, and you have the perfect set up! There are also some cheap lighting solutions that you can buy to help your plants grow!
Everyone gets tricked in the beginning, but making steps towards helping your betta will enhance his life so much! The whole set up, the filter/air pump/tubing and tank from petsmart, will cost you $27.48 since you've already got the heater!
If your heater is too small, I've got the link to a $6 one (which is $10 less than the cheapest at any pet store I've been to) on amazon that works perfectly and is recommended all the time on this sub.
Sprayer - $13.00 link to long go search
Water pump - 8.49 https://www.amazon.com/VicTsing-Submersible-Aquarium-Fountain-Hydroponics/dp/B00EWENKXO/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1519928484&sr=8-4&keywords=water+pump
Collars - 25 for $7.00. ( that’s .28 a piece if you are wondering) they have them cheaper too...
https://www.amazon.com/25-PACK-RED-Sprayers-Machines/dp/B01I2A2LNS/ref=sr_1_12?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1519928528&sr=1-12&keywords=Cloner+collars
5 gal bucket w/ lid $5.00
That’s 33.49 and you can build this exact setup with this shit. If you can scrounge a piece of rubber or hose to connect shit your done. ✌🏻👍🏼
These are CDN$ prices for what I spent on my tank that, granted, is smaller than this and does not have carpeting plants. I’ve spent maybe $40 more on it since just replenishing food, ferts, and buying more livestock. Tank is a little over a year old.
$70 - 10 gal aquarium kit includes led lights, filter, filter media for ~6 months, water conditioner for ~1yr, fish flakes for ~3 months
$40 - caribsea eco complete planted substrate (this is your gravel, for any newbies out there)
$5 - thrifted giant hunk of driftwood
$8 - Java Moss
$5 - Hygrophilia Polysperma (I think, can’t remember the name of what I’ve got)
$10 - a couple other plants I grabbed off a local aquarium buy and sell
$20 - 6 red cherry shrimp to start my initial colony
$3 - nerite snail (keeps the glass clean)
$12 - flourish excel (liquid carbon. Keeps the algae in check)
Totals in at $173 for initial startup cost. Let’s round to $200 because I probably forgot something.
My plants grow like weeds, so even though it started out kinda patchy, it filled out in 4-6 months. I don’t have carpeting plants like this guy but I’d like to experiment. Hoping to snag this co2 kit in the future which runs $40 https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0049RL3H4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uAKUAb2430135
I’m pretty happy with it the way it is and I have minimal maintenance right now so I might just leave it. It’s a nice little piece of art/houseplant/water feature/entertainment
Absolutely. DIY CO2 is ridiculously easy. I’m not that technically inclined so if I can do it anyone can. This may seem like a lot but it’s not as bad as it looks. I used to use the Fluval 88g CO2 system but it was ludicrously expensive to but the proprietary refill canisters. This setup is soooo cheap and completely reliable and produces ample CO2. I’m happy to tell you some pitfalls once you get it set up because it would be hard for you to follow me without having it in front of you.
DIY CO2 Aquarium Plant System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008CUZJF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_o0JPDbTTNQCT0
Fluval 88g-CO2 Bubble Counter - 3.1 Ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GCPM6K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_40JPDb482G6RQ
Fluval Ceramic 88g-CO2 Diffuser - 3.1 Ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GCO35G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-3JPDbJ43F4ZG
Milliard Citric Acid 5 Pound - 100% Pure Food Grade NON-GMO Project VERIFIED (5 Pound) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EYFKNL8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_34JPDb122FQKM
ARM & HAMMER Pure Baking Soda 8 oz (Pack of 6) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00860VYYC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_A5JPDb8FKP7NN
2 x normal 2 liter soda bottles
hiya, don't feel too bad, it's hard to get it right from the start with so much bad information everywhere.
A 2 gallon tank is a massive upgrade, so well done! I wouldn't mess around with the pH too much, unless it's very high. Stable pH is often better than a somewhat low or high pH.
As for filters, in my experience, a small sponge filter (1, 2), powered by a good airpump (like this one) is a good option for smaller tanks on a budget. You can also see if you can attach it to the air-thing aleardy in the tank. Be sure to also get a check valve and a regulator valve. With the regulator valve, you can decrease the amount of bubbles.
Congrats on the new fish! Bettas are my favorite fish, they're active and have a lot of personality, and they're very curious. I know you're starting off, but here's some info I hope will help :)
Bettas do best with a heater, between 75-79F / 23-26C, it helps them prevent illness and it keeps them active. I might consider upgrading him to a small tank you can put a heater and maybe a filter in, he'll be very active and fun to watch. I use this little filter for healing tanks if you're looking for a simple little filter.
Also, if you've heard or read anything along the lines of "bettas can live in vases by eating the plant roots" this is a lie - bettas are obligate carnivores, they only eat plants out of desperation when they're starving, and it can't sustain them. Make sure you have betta pellets, or freeze dried brine shrimp or blood worms :)
Make sure he always has access to the surface - bettas are anabantoids, or labyrinth fish, which means they need to breathe air from the surface. They can actually drown if they can't access the air, I've heard of this happening in vases where the plant blocked surface air access.
https://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-20-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FVG/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1504219125&sr=1-1&keywords=aquaclear+20
NO NO NO NO NO NO NO.
HOLY CRAP.
Okay, I'm going to save you from a dead fish here, alright?
Water contains a few chemicals for treatment to make it safe for us to drink, one of them is chlorine, in that same family...there is also chloramine.
These burn the hell out of fish's gills. Its dangerous.
Get yourself a bottle of seachem prime. Its a dechlorinator. This will make it safe your fish to even exist in the water.
Second, read about fishless cycling
Since it sounds like you're getting the betta soon. You can read about fish in cycling
You can use that handy dandy bottle of seachem prime dechlorinator to also detoxify ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate for about 48 hours per dose. ONLY PRIME DOES THIS, not any other dechlorinators.
You see, filters on fishtanks contain a happy little bacteria colony that takes fish waste (Ammonia) turns it into a harmful nitrite, then turns it into relatively harmless nitrate. It keeps your fish stress free and also, if those toxin levels get to high--it kills them/ or makes them susceptible to disease. You can check the levels with this test kit
Bettas enjoy low flow in their fishtanks because they aren't the strongest of swimmers. I recommend a sponge filter. They also like their tank between 78-80 degrees. So a good heater is a MUST.
The two biggest challenges with all-in-one setups for shrimp is light (not enough) and waterflow (too much.) Shrimp really require live plants to thrive, and those plants need enough light to grow. It's hard to judge from pictures, but that tank's light seems like it MIGHT be adequate for low light plants. Shrimp also require very low waterflow. High waterflow will blow them around (they're tiny and light swimmers compared to fish) and they will easily get sucked onto the intakes of most filters. The tank you linked would need some modifications to be suitable for shrimp: at the very least it will need sponges or pantyhose covering the inlet and outlets, and the flow will need to be turned down to the lowest setting, probably.
So, it might work. But if you're interested in shrimp specifically, you might as well spend a small amount extra and build a custom setup that is tailored to them. You'd need:
I think all of that will run you roughly $75, give or take. Obviously, more expensive than the all-in-one, but it would result in a tank that would be easier for a beginner to succeed with.
You'll also need to get some non-equipment essentials, like subtrate for planting in, a test-kit for monitoring your water, and obviously food, and a petri dish for feeding is highly recommended.
Then you can get into plants and stuff. Whew! Sounds like a lot, I guess. It is, but it's worth it, and shrimp are definitely a good place to jump into aquariums.
It's very kind of you to not just let him die! If you get him spiffed up you may be able to find someone who likes fish to take him in, so you don't end up feeling burdened...
but in the meanwhile, there is some basic stuff you can do. If your measurements are correct, then he's probably in a 2 1/2 or 3 gallon aquarium, which while not the best, will certainly suffice. This means the main things you'll need are a filter and a heater.
It would also be nice if you got him some stuff to hide in, so he doesn't stress. They make aquarium decorations, but a clean, well rinsed ceramic coffee mug or unpainted terra cotta planter will do the trick for cheap.
By the way, can you post the name of the water conditioner that you found in the tube? It will help me be able to figure out if it's a dechlorinator or not, which is the most important thing.
Also, does the tank have a lid? Bettas will jump out of water, especially if the water quality is bad.
Anyway, there is plenty of inexpsensive, decent equipment for a tank that size:
I personally happen to like this filter for a tank that size, and it's very easy to install/maintain.
Here's a nice little heater that's worked very well for me. You'd want to maintain his water between 75 and 80 degrees, so it's always a good idea to have a thermometer to make sure the heater is doing its job properly.
From there, maintenance is pretty easy. Feed him just 3 or so of those little food pebbles a day, and once a week give him some of the bloodworms for variety. The main thing is to not overfeed, because they have very small tummies.
Once a week, change out about 25% of his water, and rinse out your filter pads with old aquarium water if they need it. They make little syphons especially for this, because the suction they create helps you vacuum poo out of the substrate.
A great air pump is $4.19 right now:
https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-77851-Whisper-Pump-10-Gallon/dp/B0009YJ4N6/
Thanks to /u/happuning for pointing that out to me!
You're gonna likely want one of these, there are a few different kinds to choose from beyond this. Hell, you could even make your own. But it will make your life much easier.
http://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1405905674&sr=8-2&keywords=aquarium+water+change
It would certainly be easier to answer "What did you already know" before you started this. Nothing.
This list will inevitably be incomplete but here goes:
And probably another 1000 things.
Hello! Welcome to the wonderful world of betta keeping! I'm a bit late to the game, since this was posted a bit ago, and you've already recieved advice, but I'd like to offer up some as well.
As everyone has already said, it's a pretty big misconception for nearly all new betta keepers that bettas can be kept in small spaces without a filter or heater. This stems from the belief that bettas live in mud puddles, when it couldn't be further from the truth.
Bettas come from vast rice paddies, that will usually never dip below knee height and stretches for miles on end. In the dry season, the paddies do tend have lower water levels, but certainly not puddles. It's a densely planted ecosystem with moving water, and natural filters, ie. The plants and bacteria.
Since you're new to fish keeping (I assume, but apologies if I am wrong) you may not be aware of something called the "Nitrogen Cycle." While it may be confusing at first, essentially the beneficial bacteria that breaks down your fishes waste into ammonia, then nitrites, and then nitrates. This process is crucial for your fishes health and well being, and is very important in the fish keeping world, but I'll get into the specifics a bit more later in this comment.
While the "recommended" amount of space for a betta is commonly agreed to be 2.5 gallons, which is perfectly fine as a bare minimum, I would honestly not recommend such a small space for a beginner. This is because of the nitrogen cycle. I would go with a 5 gallon tank, or even a 10 gallon, which will be much easier to cycle and keep your fish much safer during the process.
As for the nitrogen cycle itself, the process happens on it's own, but you have to be the one to keep your fish safe during it. Basically, ammonia and nitrites are deadly to your fish, and for the first few weeks, these will be all too common. What your aiming for is the much safer, but still harmful in large quantities, and manageable nitrites at the end of the cycle.
The nitrogen cycle starts with the addition of ammonia into a new tank. This can be done in 2 ways, fish in or fish out. What you'll be doing is a fish in cycle. Beneficial bacteria will begin to grow in your tank to break down waste and convert them into the ammonia, nitrite, and nitrates. The bacteria grow on surfaces, such as decor, gravel, filter, heater, glass, and is NOT present in the water itself. This means that for the next few weeks, you gotta stay on top of your water change game.
50% water changes every other day for 2 weeks. 30% water changes every other day for 2 weeks. 40% water changes about every 3-4 days for a week. 30% water changes about once or twice a week at the end of the cycle. I know it seems like a lot, but your fish will appreciate it.
For more information on the Nitrogen Cycle, you can search it on google, and a helpful video to watch on it is KGTropicals youtube video "everything you need to know about the nitrogen cycle." They break it down so well and have more visual representations, so I definitely recommend it.
Some things to consider getting for your fish as well, and things that will help your cycle a TON. I'll be adding links for visual representation, as well as trying to find you the best prices I can.
No links for this one since shipping a tank is a PAIN, but 5 and 10 gallon tanks can be bought from places like walmart, or local stores, or petsmart and Petco. I'm not sure if petco is still having their dollar per gallon sale, but a 10 gallon tank would only be $10.
https://www.amazon.com/Safe-250-g-8-8-oz/dp/B0002A5WOC/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?keywords=seachem+prime&qid=1572116532&sr=8-8
To clean a sponge filter is the easiest thing. While your changing tank water, out some in a clean bucket, take your sponge filter out, put in bucket of removed tank water, squeeze sponge filter, put back in tank. It also holds an awesome amount of the good beneficial bacteria and will not lose it when you clean it, unlike changing cartridges for a hang on back filter. They also aerate the water, bringing more oxygen into it, and don't create a high flow that will tire your betta.
https://www.amazon.com/Lefunpets-Biochemical-Sponge-Breeding-Aquarium/dp/B07VM8DN5Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?keywords=sponge+filter&qid=1572116736&sr=8-7
https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Whisper-Pump-Gallon-Aquariums/dp/B004PB8SMM/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=fish%2Btank%2Bair%2Bpump&qid=1572116792&sr=8-3&th=1&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Penn-Plax-Aquariums-Flexible-Standard/dp/B0002563MW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=airline+tubing&qid=1572116832&sr=8-3
Hang on back filters can be used too though, I just don't find them as reliable.
https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Whisper-Power-Filter-Three-Stage/dp/B001CHXJSK/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?keywords=fish+tank+filter&qid=1572117085&sr=8-16
Be sure to use a hang on back appropriate for your tank size. Bettas can tire easily of water flow is too high, and in some cases you may still need to baffle the filter.
https://youtu.be/Hse7F3pvHqI
https://www.amazon.com/HITOP-Aquarium-Reptiles-Thermometer-50W-Grey/dp/B07MJJJ4QQ/ref=sxin_2_ac_m_pm?ac_md=1-0-VW5kZXIgJDIw-ac_d_pm&keywords=fish+tank+heater&pd_rd_i=B07MJJJ4QQ&pd_rd_r=429ee2a8-3699-45aa-8e2b-e30164b14a2a&pd_rd_w=uFCrj&pd_rd_wg=125c4&pf_rd_p=808372f4-ce06-4458-88ef-16b605aa053a&pf_rd_r=T4YHMVDAP5EAQSAGXKJV&psc=1&qid=1572117367
https://www.amazon.com/Northfin-Betta-Bits-Pellet-Package/dp/B01C1ARV3K/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=northfin+betta+bits&qid=1572117834&sprefix=northfin+&sr=8-2
https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A6577-Tropical-Granules-Medium/dp/B07194GD1F/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=fluval+bug+bites&qid=1572117868&sprefix=fluval+bug&sr=8-4
I use a mix of Aqueon, Northfin, and Fluval for some variety in my bettas diets along with frozen blood worms. They love them. I've heard Hikari betta food is good too.
I don't recommend the generic foods sold at walmart. The pellets are too big, and the formula is low quality. It'll keep your betta alive, but just isn't great for them. Also, flake foods are a no no. It's just too messy, the fish doesn't eat all of it, and just isn't worth it.
Lastly, you want to decide what kind of decor you will go with. If you go artificial, be sure to use soft, silk plants so your bettas fins do not get hurt.
I recommend live plants always though, cause they help a lot in keeping your tank clean, produce oxygen, and will help absorb some of nitrates in the water. All around good stuff. Easy plants to take care of are anubias, java ferns, java moss, water wisteria, and floating plants like water lettuce.
Bettas also need hiding places. This can be anything really. From the decor sold at walmart, natural looking rock caves, or even a terracotta pot. It doesn't really matter, as long as it doesn't have sharp points.
The decor is up to you and what you like.
Ummmmm, I can't think of anything else really. But if you need any help with anything, feel free to reach out! A lot of us are passionate about our quirky little dudes and gals and will be more than happy to help with anything you need advice on. And use the internet to your advantage too! There's TONS of good information and videos out there now, and you can find what you're looking for at the touch of a screen now.
And also also, please do not feel bad about your start at betta keeping. We all start somewhere, and more than likely, we have all made this very same mistake. I know I did. The best thing to do now is to just work on upgrading your little dude and providing the best care you can for him. He'll start to heal up and REALLY shine.
Apologies for extremely long message, but I hope this helps and wish you and your betta the best of luck!! ☺️
right here. Python No Spill Water Changer. attaches to your faucet. pulls the water out of the tank into the sink and then sends water back into the tank to refill what you've removed.
Buy a sponge filter for your tank when/if you get another betta.
I use this one with the tetra brand air pump in my ten gallon and I am very happy with the results.
Here's the album with descriptions.
Parts list:
Total cost: ~$60. Not having to pH, add nutes, add calmag, etc. individually to like 10 individual cans of water: priceless!
Step one:
Purchase
Step two: Put everything together
Step three: Profit!
EDIT: A few extra things that I remembered and also mentioned below. The regulator comes with a bubble counter, but for NOT come with tubing! You will need to buy the tubing, diffuser, and the co2 indicator. Amazon sells everything you need and is free shipping with their Super Saver option.
That is most likely a snowball pleco, which are nice little guys that are pretty hardy, good omnivores, and get to be about 4-6 inches. There are quite a few babies like this currently available in my LFSs, and I have a few that have done quite well in a community tank.
I agree with the other commenters that you are getting an ammonia/nitrite/nitrate spike from the addition of new fish. I recommend Seachem products to help (not affiliated, just long-time freshwater and saltwater tank hobbyist). First, use Seachem Prime as a water conditioner to help - after doing a water change. Your tank will need to do a mini-cycle to recalibrate the bacterial load for the addition of new fish. You will likely need to do frequent water changes until the cycle ends. Test with something like API master test kit to track the rise and fall of ammonia/nitrites/nitrates. Ammonia and nitrite spikes kill fish very quickly, while high nitrates shorten the lifespans of the fish by more slowly harming their organs (regular water changes help keep nitrates down long term). Add a bubbler to the tank to help with the stress by making sure there's not additional stress from low O2. For the fin rot, clean water can cure it. You likely will need to treat the fish as well with something stronger. Seachem makes paraguard, which I use all the time for quarantine and mildly ill fish. You can add an antibiotic like Seachem kanaplex to ParaGuard or treat separately with kanaplex to help with fin rot. Both medications work by being added to the water (rather than feeding to the fish). The best thing about Seachem products is that they affect the pH much less than any other products I have tried. Note the additional oxygen is usually necessary when treating with medications. Seachem Stress Guard can also help transition fish to a new tank. All these products are available on Amazon and usually are at Petco/Petsmart/LFS.
For future fish additions, I recommend 1) adding only 1-2 fish at a time to limit the cycling problem and 2) QUARANTINE your new fish, so you can treat any diseases they may have before adding them to your community tank. Even a small tank with just a bubbler can work as a quarantine for a small fish for a couple weeks, and can be a literal lifesaver for your other fish.
Also - there are a lot of great online communities for different types of fish that you can check out to learn more about these things. For plecos, start with this one. :) Good luck with your new guy!
40 gallons is going to be pushing on what you can accomplish with DIY, so I would avoid going that route, as you wont wind up happy.
As for what you will need, it is really very simple, but not particularly cheap. You need a CO2 tank, a regualtor, bubble counter, diffusor and gas line.
CO2. Go with a 5 or 10 lb tank. If you can find used even better as most places just swap tanks when you fill them, so you get your new shiny aluminum tank, bring it to get filled, they take it and give you a banged up used one back. A 5lb tank should last 3-4 months depending on how many bubbles per second you are pumping
Regulator with Bubble Counter and solenoid, the solenoid is what shuts off flow of CO2 at night, when plugged into a timer. Plants don't utilize CO2 at night, so continuing to pump it into the tank is just wasting gas. Keep it on the same cycle as your lights, or better yet, and hour behind, so it turns on and hour before the lights come on, and off an hour before the lights go off.
Diffuser, you can spend a little or a lot here. I dont really see the need to spend a ton with this part. You do want to see if the unit has a check valve though, and if not, you will need to add one between the bubble counter and diffuser to prevent a back siphoning.
Gas tubing very important you get tubing rated for CO2 gas. Do not use regular air line of the gas will eat right through it
Hey Phantomsgf! I also have a fluval tank and man those filters are strong! I hunted around for ages and I found a really easy, really cheap solution: buy a pre-filter sponge and pop it onto the filter output. Make sure, of course, that the filter motor is at the lowest setting, but even that is too strong for a betta. You really need the sponge.
If you're having trouble with the filter intake, which are the vertical cuts in the plastic, I guess you could put some mesh over it to, again, slow down the flow. I don't have my betta yet so I'm not sure if this will be a problem.
You might also want to get a thermometer and verify your water's temperature. If it's always about 100 degrees inside your house, even at night, then yes, I'd believe that the water is warm enough for your little guy. But it has to be really really really hot to keep a fish tank at 80 degrees.
As for cycling, you're basically going to have to do a lot of water changes really often. My instinct, which is amateur, says to do 50% a day every day. I also learned from experience that you should let water sit for a while to warm up before putting it in the tank or the temperature drops like crazy.
You can check out products like this that claim to add the bacteria to your tank that eat fish waste. Do they work or is it a myth? I don't know. But for tiny tiny tanks like the fluval you have, you will definitely need a water dropper that can measure a tenth of a millimeter to put this stuff in your tank.
Anyway. Those are my tips. And when you do get a heater, you can fit it where the filter output plastic tube is! So cool!
Oh: look at this leaf. So cute.
http://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC
5.5 gallon tank from petco - 12 dollars (or if you can go today 10 gallon for 10 dollars plus tax)
Heater - 12 to 15 dollars (I like this one but there is also this one here)
Filter - 13 dollars to 25 dollars (It may need baffled or This one though it's a bit more expensive but I prefer it just remember a filter is just something to push water through it. Also can look into sponge filters)
Substrate - 0 for bare bottom or 10 dollars for some cheap sand at petco This sand to be exact.
Light - 42 dollars This is what I'd buy but you can find cheaper or just do grow lights in little plug ins
I'd keep at least 30 for plants but you can get some cheaper live plants or maybe find some cuttings for free.
Total is 47 dollars for a proper set up not including plants since I don't know what you can do in your area. With my over priced light for your set up it's 89
Repeating and adding on to what's already been said, neither would do well in that "tank". It's too small for any fish to live comfortably and doesn't allow for many if the things needed for fish to thrive. Because you're asking a question like this you must be new to fish keeping, which isn't a bad thing. As far as the tank goes, I would try and return it if possible. Like /u/_ataraxia said, goldfish need 30-40 gallons, minimum. To better display the reason why, here is a comparason of the goldfish you buy at the store to a full grown adult. Bettas also need larger, 2.5 gallons is the semi-agreed upon minimum for bettas. I put "semi" there because many argue that 5 or 10 gallons should be the minimum.
If you want to get some fish for you daughter and care for them in a humane way I'd invest in a 10 gallon tank. 10s are small enough to be affordable for beginners and allow for more than one fish to be kept in the tank. /u/kamikazeX already mentioned that petco has a $1 per gallon sale on now which you should really take advantage of if you want to commit to this. Personally, I think a 20 gallon long tank would be much better and would only cost about $10-15 more to set up and will make your life easier. Believe it or not bigger is better and the bigger the tank the less maintenance you have to do. For things you should research a small list would be:
As far as what I'd recommend buying to get started is:
There may be similar products for lower prices, but with aquariums you always want to buy nice, not twice. When/if you get a proper tank and it is time to add fish go to trhe store and find the ones you like, write down what they are and leave. Don't buy them, leave. Go home and do your research so you know how to care for what you're getting and that it will do well in your tank. The last time I bought fish I had done a week of research on what I was buying.
Neither of them are good. Honestly, I'd grab one from Amazon if you have time. Pick up an Aquaclear 30 or 50. They're 10x better than these.
Both these filters are some of the lowest on the market.
An airstone doesn't defuse co2 properly, it's very inefficient, I suggest grabbing a DIY co2 regulator, diffuser, and a bubble counter if you wish on amazon, should cost you twenty-five dollars or so, you'll see a huge difference.
DIY CO2 Aquarium Plant System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008CUZJF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bJyuyb1E5K3FV
Fluval Ceramic 88g-CO2 Diffuser - 3.1 Ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GCO35G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ULyuybPW9C6G2
Fluval 88g-CO2 Bubble Counter - 3.1 Ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GCPM6K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DKyuybDD5AXPX
What size tank do you have?
If you are set on the paintball set up, you can't go wrong with the Aquatek mini regulator. It is the regulator I have set up on my 15 gallon and it has been fantastic. Basically, the parts you will need are:
Obviously, CO2 setups aren't cheap, but with the paintball route you can do it relatively inexpensively compared to the full scale regulator route. Good luck! I'd be happy to clear anything else up for you if you have questions.
Edit: Make sure you have a check valve in the system somewhere. This will keep aquarium water from flowing up the line into the regulator. Some of those items I listed (like the GLA diffuser) have them built in, which will solve that problem. However, if you choose products without a check valve built in you will need to add one. Here are some (also more tubing there to choose from).
A lot of it is cheaper if you can find it used! If you're in the wisconsin area pm me and I can even give you some of my old stuff.
Otherwise I can help you try and look around for the cheapest options for stuff. A large plastic tote will work as a tank temporarily. Craft mesh makes a good lid.
This heater is like $10 and pretty good.
This sponge filter is $5.69. You can get airline tubing at the pet store for like $2-3, and here's a cheap airpump for the filter.
Then a tiny bottle of seachem prime in stores is I believe $5-6. It's very concentrated so you wont need a ton.
Add that up with the testing kit, and I think that comes to around $58 for the basic setup if you do everything really cheap. Again, if you search around craigslist, you can probably find a lot of stuff used for cheaper.
Necessities
api liquid test kit
sponge filter
airline tubing for sponge filter
air pump for sponge filter
thermometer
fluval spec v kit. Comes with filter, decent light that can grow some lowlight plants, idk what else but I hear it's pretty good, I would look around on other sites to find it cheaper
dechlorinator if you don't already have it
heater, I happen to live somewhere where the temperature of my tank floats right in the bettas range, but if this isn't the case for you then you'll need a heater
You'll need something for a lid, can't find anything on amazon but you have a few options: going to a petstore and looking for a 5 gallon lid, going to other websites to look, or making a DIY lid, which can be done with greenhouse panels, or even wood if you don't mind cutting.
Substrate is optional, but if you want it you can either get pool filter sand, which you can find at your local Home Depot or lowes (assuming you're in the US), you'll have to rinse it first but it's really cheap, $8 for 50lb which is more than enough.
I would buy the tank in person at a store or on some site like Craigslist where you can find used tanks for cheap
Also, don't forget to cycle your tank, if you don't know what that is I would do some research on it, it's possibly the most important thing in keeping any aquatic creature
Off the top of my head, will continue to edit to add stuff
I bought these that fit on my aquaclears..http://smile.amazon.com/Pre-Filter-Sponge-Pack-Fluval-Aquarium/dp/B004K9A15G/ref=sr_1_3?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1425919054&sr=1-3&keywords=fluval+prefilter. They work well and I always catch my shrimp eating off them.
A tank doesn't have to be a glass box. If you're in a pinch, a large food-safe container, like a Rubbermaid tote would work. As this is a goldfish, I would recommend at least 20 gallons of water right now. As it grows, you will need to upgrade.
Goldfish are a coldwater fish, so you can get away with no heater.
Fill the tote with DECHLORINATED water. There are many different brands and types of chemicals that will make tap water safe for fish. Pick one and follow the instructions on the bottle as they all have different dosages. I recommend Seachem's Prime.
You will need a filter to start your biological filtration and to aerate the water. A basic sponge filter will work, if we are looking for a bare bones setup. This needs to be hooked up to an air pump to work.
The most important part is that your "tank" will not be cycled for the first little while. This means that all the fish poop and food waste will be toxic. This is the biggest threat to your fish. Until the bacteria develop to convert the fish waste into nitrate (which is relatively safe), you will need to do basically daily water changes.
If you can get your hands on a test kit for Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate, you can monitor the progress of the cycle. When you no longer read ANY ammonia or nitrite, you can lower your water changes to once a week or two.
Don't get too disheartened if the fish does not make it. The gills look very inflamed and it is likely very stressed. I would recommend buying some aquarium salt and dosing accordingly to prevent infection.
Buy tank separately, filters, heaters, and lights that come with tanks tend to be low quality so buy separately. I'd say go with 10 gallon for two reasons.
I buy all my supplies on amazon cause i have prime and it's cheaper, i'm a college student so cheapness is everything. This is a good cheap filter and this is a good heater i also recommend a digital thermostat cause it's easier to read the temp rather than squinting your eyes to see the tab thermostats.
What?
You mean pumps? Yes there are pumps that can lift water into your aquarium...
That being said, the Python water changer is a highly popular product for simplifying water changes.. Just run a mix of warm/cold water into the tank when you top up.
Doesn't have to be exactly the same temp, so long as the tank isn't swinging around wildly in temperature.. A few degrees either way is OK...
Well, then you'll love this even more.
Ever tried one of these out? They make water changes way easier
They're selling you a blackbox education package and some weirdo modular farm for $2500. You have no idea what you're getting in either. All I can tell you is this:
A 200 sq ft system (including everything) cannot feed 8 people. 1,100 lbs of vegetables and 400 lbs of tilapia won't feed 8 people, and that's what they claim their system makes. Average people eat 4.5-5 lbs of food in a day on average, meaning 1652-1825 lbs per year per human. A system that produces 1500 lbs won't even feed one person, but they say it right there:
>This one module will feed 8 people FOREVER
That's a lie. Even on their inflated estimates of how much food they produce, that's an outright lie.
Another thing I know: This system does not include fish tanks. Fish tanks are the most expensive part of every build I've ever done, and this system asks that you provide your own. This system does not include filtering tanks, either, which will run you another good bit of change. Potentially most importantly, This system does not include fish. Food-fish are hard to source, and you'll have to source your own.
And to add insult to injury, this system does not include grow medium or PVC. You are paying over a thousand dollars a unit at the the lowest prices (which you can only get at huge volumes, over 50 units) for grow beds, a patented water pump, two air pumps (for no reason, one air pump works just as well), two air stones, tubing, a patented electrical panel, worm castings, mineral dust, and a list of all the other shit you'll have to buy.
Let's price this out:
And the grand total is: $368 for everything they offer, minus the list of other things you'll have to buy.
Hope that list is worth $600+ in your mind.
Seriously though, just go watch all of Bright Agrotech's videos five or seven times apiece to get the science and then read here to figure out what kind of system you want. I just spent fifteen minutes and saved you over a thousand dollars setting up your system. Imagine what you can do in a couple hours.
Okay, you have my attention. Is this hose all I need? https://www.amazon.com/Python-Aquarium-Maintenance-System-50-Feet/dp/B000255NXC?th=1&psc=1
Oh dear. Is this your first big fish tank? Or first fish tank?
I would highly recommend getting a Python Water changer. It is a little pricy but it is worth the cost.
Other things you will probably need with your python for doing water changes/filling the tank.
- Some 5 gallon buckets from home depot (Great for all sorts of things, they just come in handy in the hobby, a must-have) Very cheap
- A Digital thermometer for water to help temperature match to your tank before adding the water.
- A fish saver cover for your python water changer to help you save fish when you're doing a water change.
Yes you can get fancy guppies, and male look prettier, but if you wanted you could get girls, or both but you’ll have lots of babies (that can be a plus). Sponge filters aren’t expensive.
Just find a properly rate air pump for your size, typically they have the rating in the description. You’ll also need a piece of sponge, airline tubing, and an air stone
airline tubing
sponge
You should be able to find airstones for $1-2 at a local fish shop. You’ll also need an air pump rated for your pond size.
Here's the air pump that I bought
Tetra 77851 Whisper Air Pump, 10-Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009YJ4N6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_lSQxybNT7AE1N
And the filter
Bio Fish Aquarium Mini Cylinder Soft Sponge Water Filter, Black by XINYOU https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009V3KUOS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tTQxybTDESDSD
I think I accidentally ordered the filter a size up. Mine takes up a bit of room but it should have the same effect as this one that won't take up as much. I think it's more about the air flow than the size of the sponge.
I also got some check valves to protect the pump in the case of a power outage. They're super cheap, and I got mine at a petco nearby. If you want a little bit more control over the air flow, I got an air control valve there too.
Like these
Plastic Aquarium 2 Way Air Line Tubing Flow Control Valve 3mm Dia 5pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WW6LSWY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_p5Qxyb33GC6V2
Uniclife Aquarium Air pump Accessories Set for Fish Tank, 2 Air Stones, 2 Check Valves, 4 Connectors and 6 Suction Cups https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K4AZKNW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_M7Qxyb9GZRACN
And some airline tubing.
Many of these things were actually cheaper at a petco than on Amazon besides the filter and air pump
Get a [sponge] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LL32RY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_zLL2wbKA1P1B7) like the kind they use for sponge filters or a pre-filter like the one I linked and put it on your filter intake and that'll keep it from being a problem.
[Source] (http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f60/how-to-stop-your-filter-from-sucking-sand-67489.html)
EDIT: I was on mobile and my link was formatted incorrectly lol.
An intake guard is a necessity with shrimp.
The big ones may have a chance to escape, but any shrimplets are sure to get sucked in.
They come in stainless steel mess as well, which look nicer, but the sponge type give shrimp a nice biofilm grazing spot.
Sorry about your shrimp.
Fluval Spec 3
Best tank I've ever used. Built-in 3-stage filter concealed in the back, plus space for a 25w heater in the same compartment the pump is in.
If you get this tank I reccomend two things:
Get a Fluval Pre-filter sponge to place over the pump-output to diffuse the current
Set the pump to the lowest possible flow (It's still pretty strong so that's why you'll need the pre-filter sponge)
I would suggest using Fluval EDGE Pre-Filter Sponge. It slips over the nozzle creating all the turbulence in your tank. I use it on my spec v and have no problems.
I personally wouldn't risk that. I would go with something like this. I've had horrible luck with things like it but they were recommended on here before for situations like this :)
It definitely looks like fin damage, not fin rot. The damage is more thin and narrow than I would expect to see with fin biting. For now I would recommend putting a sponge over the filter intake (something like this). I have also successfully made sponge intake protectors by sewing sponge together with fishing line... but I'm weird like that.
At the very least this will help you rule out damage from the filter.
AquaClear 50 Power Filter - 110 V, UL Listed (Includes AquaClear 50 Carbon, AquaClear 50 Foam & AquaClear 50 BioMax https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000260FUM/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_FxaIwbW79Q96B
People swear by this filter. I'm actually about to purchase it for my 10 gallon as well and you can adjust the filter media and water flow on it too.
My point is that no matter what size tank OP buys, it's going to be too small. Bitching about it seems kind of dumb since it would be impossible for the average person to own a large enough tank.
The only thin OP actually needs would be a filter. Something like this will be enough for these little guys to live long happy lives. That plus regular/appropriate water changes and they'll live 20+ years easy.
It's really easy to criticize someone for their tank size when sitting across the globe and not actually paying the bill. I'm just tired of the hypocrisy. If everyone is actually concerned about the size of this type of fishes living space, they wouldn't put these fish up for sale to begin with, boycott the store that do, and tell everyone not to buy them or return them immediately... but then again, we're talking about a fish. An animal that society has universally agreed on as being less than almost all other living things. Many don't consider them meat.... I'm getting off topic but I'm at a [7] and trying to paint a picture. It's just silly to criticize or make OP feel bad for their tank size when the problem is so much worse.
10 gal is fine. I started my first SW tank a couple months ago and I got a 6 gal. Now, you will have to have to have live rock. Without it, it will be nearly impossible to have a stable tank. I suggest you get around 15 pounds. Get all the live rock you plan to have in you tank at once so your parameters don't get an ammonia spike if you have a fish inside. Aragonite sand should be fine. I would stay FOWLR (fish only with live rock) because corals are much harder. The cycle is also very similar. Set up your tank, add sand, fill with a few inches of water, add rocks and aquascape, fill up with water, add a deli shrimp, and you should be good to go. You will need some salt, a hydrometer, a good reliable heater, some lighting, a power head and test kit. And also a filter.
This is what I would get
http://amzn.com/B000260FUM
I would put the bio rings and carbon aside and replace with this,
http://amzn.com/B0002A5VK2
http://amzn.com/B004PBD4J4
Add the matrix when you start cycling, then add the purigen when you are getting fish. The reviews are speaking for the product. Purigen is simply a godsend
http://amzn.com/B00019JOSO
Go for a refractometer if you can afford it but this works fine for me as long as I tap it an there are no bubbles.
http://amzn.com/B001EUE808
The test kit.
http://amzn.com/B0036S4YZ0
This powerhead should do fine in a 10 gallon.
http://amzn.com/B003M7P9YU
This is one of the best most reliable heaters on the market. Many will fail and bake your tank but not the jagar.
http://amzn.com/B003EE5GUS
These make life a whole lot easier BN testing water or adding things like calcium. You get 10 so they should def last a while.
http://amzn.com/B008SJ1H7A
Get like 5 of these. They are extremely accurate and last around 3 months each. Wrap the wire around the tank and have one on at all times. They also help when doing water changes. You should also pick up an extra heater for water changes, via aqua and aqua top have good ones. These are made in china and sent out to companies like coralife to be package and sold for like 10 dollars, see
http://amzn.com/B0002DI4TO
Now, this is the salt I use for water changes,
http://amzn.com/B0002DJU0G
This should last you a year or two and is way cheaper then continually buying salt. I personally use tap water that has been heavily decholinated with this,
http://amzn.com/B00176CVK8
You should get your tap water tested for copper which can kill invertebrates. A 5 gallon bucket is really useful as is this siphon for water changes,
http://amzn.com/B002LL8BWU
This net is really fine and will catch most tiny debris
http://amzn.com/B008HPOCUE
You will probably find it cheaper in a store. I leave it in front of my powerhead for a hour or two every couple to days to catch debris and waste.
These tweezers help for when you don't want to get your hands wet.
http://amzn.com/B001CWDSYA
But they do start rusting after a lot of
use.
http://amzn.com/B0002E7ITK
This has been the best fish food in my experience but all fish should be fed a varied diet. This is a good staple and should be substituted with brine shrimp, mysis shrimp (frozen) and seaweed.
Not everything here is necessary, I'm just telling you what helped me make the jump to saltwater.
Here are some pics of my tank:
http://imgur.com/p3PP7X7
http://imgur.com/9kUaq1g
http://imgur.com/wtUfCb5
http://imgur.com/yl82GRn
One last thing, in a tank that size, draw a small line where you want you water level to be, when it goes below that due to evaporation, top off water. Test your salinity often in that tank. I use seachem marine buffer to deal with pH issues but chemicals and buffets should be avoided.
Aside from thanking everyone who replied, I want to take the time to update on whats going on.
After I posted, I was leaning into purchasing a Fluval Spec V to house Fishy. 170). I started looking for other options such as buying another tank, buying at a LFS or commissioning a tank.
A reputable tank maker quoted me US$45.00 to make a 15 Gallon tank, with the following dimension 16.25''x16.25''x13.25'' (LxWxH) made with .88 mm glass or aprox 1/3''.
In turn, I would have to buy a filter, a heater and light (as well as substrate and plants). Here is what Im leaning towards, advice would be very much appreciated, as its my first tank in about 10 years:
Heater: Eheim 25 watt.
Filter: Aquaclear HOB Power Filter 20.
Light: Finnex Stingray 16'.
An acquaintance suggested I buy this filter instead:
Aquaclear Power Head + Aquaclear Powerhead Attachment.
Even suggested I fit my tank with two of those instead of the HOB filter.
Being a noob, I dont really know much about those types of filters.
For plants Im thinking something like this:
Fluval Anubias 12'.
Fluval Lizard Tail.
Substrate: Im looking forward to adding real plants in the future.
Soil - ADA Africana.
Sand - something along that color.
I already own an APC UPS, similar to this one or even the same one (i dont really remember).
Again, any tips or suggestions are welcome.
The only noise from a DWC would be the air pump. If you look specifically for a pump that bills itself as silent you can keep the noise reduced to a very quiet hum which should be all but unnoticeable against outdoor background noise. I have a small DWC unit on my desk at work which uses this guy and my cubicle neighbors can't hear it.
Looks great, good work. If you want to speed up growth, buy a small aquarium air pump, and a cheap airstone. They have a lot of combo's on amazon for under $15.
I too started because of Jeb, humorously enough and now I have 5 foot tall plants in my man cave. Grow for the stars.
This video has some great advice. I used it when I got my DIY system set up. I purchased a kit from amazon for around $15. Totally worth it so far. Citric acid and baking soda lasts two weeks (when I'm doing it correctly) and I've had great growth so far. Be sure to also pick up a bubble counter and diffuser. Baking soda is easily found at any store with groceries, I had to order citric acid online because my Cub foods didn't have any. Overall the system is totally worth it for around $25.
The fluval kit doesn't function like the typical co2 setup most people run.
The way it works is you turn the knob on to let the co2 fill up the chamber and then turn it off and let the co2 diffuse into the water throughout the day.
TBH this is really a lot of hassle for a system that you have to turn it on and off manually.
If I were to buy a co2 system all over again I would likely go with these items:
Co2 regulator
Diffuser
Drop checker
Check valve
Tubing
I would consider this to be a good bare bones starting system that would get you started in co2 once you pick up a tank from your local welding supply shop.
Sponge filters are the best for shrimp. It's only $2.81 cents shipped.
Here a amazon link where to buy it:
https://amzn.com/B0056XVF82
Here a youtube link about it:
https://youtu.be/Rc5aICDyorM
But you do need an air pump for it.
The shrimp will glaze off the sponge and it will help encourage breeding.
I would not recommend no filter unless your tank is heavy planted but water movement is beneficial to spread out nutrients/co2 to plants.
A sponge pre-filter on your filter intake should solve your problems, unless its broken beyond belief and can't even hold the sponge filter up.
Finally at work so I can give some links, lol
Here's a cheap sponge filter, I love these for bettas because they have a gentle flow and no mechanical intake for the betta to get sucked into. The bacteria will live in the sponges so make sure to never clean them with tap water or else you'll kill them! You'll also need an air pump and some airline tubing to get the filter going. I've used all of these and it's a pretty simple and cheap setup.
To actually measure the ammonia/nitrite/nitrate levels, you'll need a test kit. I know some people and stores use strips, but they are hilariously inaccurate. You can have levels of 70+ ppm of nitrate (which is usually deadly) and the strips will tell you that you have 0 ppm. The liquid kit also lasts a lot longer! Your tank is cycled when ammonia is at 0 ppm, nitrites are at 0 pmm, and nitrates are at 0-20 ppm.
To make it easier to clean his tank, you can use a siphon. It sucks up the water for you, all you need is a bucket/tub to catch it in. Makes cleaning a lot less hectic!
Just a side note, Betta are actually tropical (and cold-blooded fish), so they need a heater. This is good for a 10 gal, it's what I use :) You can also get a glass or electronic thermometer to make sure the water is staying at the recommended 78-80 F. If you already have a water conditioner this is optional but Seachem Prime is what I use as it binds and neutralizes low levels of ammonia.
Here's the sub caresheet/wiki, and here's a guide to fish-in cycling (which basically just means cycling the tank with a fish already inside). I know this is a lot of info/expenses all at once but if you ever have any questions you're always free to PM me! I'm happy to help to the best of my ability. I'd recommend getting him a 5 gal or bigger ASAP, and with clean warm water his fins will be healing in no time :)
One more piece of advice if you're going to go with a betta fish.
Since you have an airpump and stone, ditch the power filter and get a sponge filter. Bettas don't like a lot of flow and the filter that came with the tank will blow the betta all around the tank. To clean the sponge you just swish it in old tank water and put it back.
You won't need to change it ever, just clean it/rinse it with used (non-chlorinated!) tank water while you're doing tank maintenance every so often. (I clean my betta's sponge filter real good once or twice a month by giving it a few good squeezes in a bucket of used water before I throw it out.)
Basically you'll want a small air pump like this along with a tank-size appropriate sponge filter. I recommend one like this *and some airline tubing to connect them :)
try the azoo mignon hang on the back filter. very small and discreet https://www.amazon.com/AZOO-AZ13097-Mignon-Filter-60/dp/B005VEWCMO
https://www.amazon.com/AZOO-AZ13097-Mignon-Filter-60/dp/B005VEWCMO/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1520309624&sr=1-2&keywords=NANO+TANK+FILTER
THIS IS LITERALLY THE BEST.
You can alter the flow to your liking as well :)
Do you know what kind of cichlids and catfish you have? There aren't many that are appropriate for a 15 gallon tank as they will grow too large.
An aquaclear 30 would work well for the tank and it's not too expensive. You can use play sand as a substrate, but you have to rinse it really well before you put it in the tank. You can get it from home improvement stores or Walmart for cheap. Good plants would be any low light, hardy plants like anubias, water wisteria, java ferns, anacharis, etc. and they can be bought from petsmart, petco, any other local fish stores, or online.
When you're renovating the tank you can keep them in a large bucket with a bubbler.
I’m sorry to say the above comments are right. Common goldfish get over 1 foot in length and are incredibly messy fish. They really belong in a pond, but you could theoretically keep one in 75 gallon (but a 90 gallon is the same footprint with a little more height, offering more water and therefore easier to keep clean). Really, they should have a tank that is at least 6 foot long and 18 inches wide, but a 75 (4 feet and 18 inches wide) would be the bare minimum. Anything narrower and the fish will have trouble turning around as goldfish get over 12-14 inches long if they are healthy. They will stay smaller if their growth is stunted, but this is extremely unhealthy for them and results in a much shorter lifespan. With a 75 or 90 gallon, be prepared to do 30-50% waterchanges every week (which should be pretty easy with a system like the python. You won’t need a heater, but you will need a great filter. I recommend a canister filter, but if that is out of your price range two of these or better yet two of these will work well. Goldfish are plant eaters so you won’t have to worry about plants, so you can get whatever light you like/what’s cheapest. Big tanks are expensive, but you can often find them used along with the stands (which saves a ton of money). You can also get a 75 gallon half off from Petco during the dollar-per-gallon sale, and then build your own stand (tons of plans online). For substrate, I would buy pool filter sand (very cheap and great for goldfish, it can’t get stuck in their mouths like gravel and it looks awesome, it’s easy to keep clean too). There are a lot of ways to cut costs, especially with a goldfish tank that doesn’t need a filter or fancy light. Feel free to ask any questions, and please do some research on the nitrogen cycle (introduction ) it’s the most important thing you can possibly learn as a new fishkeeper! You will need a test kit too, to test your water. Don’t bother with test strips as they are very inaccurate, go ahead and get this. If you want to cycle the tank quickly and without a hassle, this is the only one that really works. Welcome to the wonderful world of fishkeeping! Best of luck with your pet! Goldfish are lots of fun.
Edit: petsmart has a 75 gallon tank with stand, lid, and light for half off today for Black Friday (at $249 a screaming deal for a brand new tank!!) if you are interested.
Here’s a solutions- go to a local hardware store or tractor supply or landscape store and try to find an all purpose tub, storage tote, or practically any large container, somewhere around 30-50 gallons. Most of these tubs are fish safe, and are very cheap. For filtration use a large sponge filter and pump which are a very cheap and a effective alternative to normal filters. I wouldn’t worry about heat at the moment as this is meant to be temporary, and goldfish can handle it briefly. I wouldn’t but any decorations or substrate in the tub, just leave it bare. This setup is actually widely used in the goldfish hobby, so it’s a great choice.
Here’s the supplies list on amazon for your convenience, but keep in mind you could also go and look for these products cheaper elsewhere and don’t have to be the exact ones
Sponge filter-
Bacto-Surge High Density Foam Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GOFPX9I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_D0G6AbC8B1HRS
Pump-
VicTsing 80 GPH (300L/H, 4W) Submersible Water Pump For Pond, Aquarium, Fish Tank Fountain Water Pump Hydroponics with 5.9ft (1.8M) Power Cord https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EWENKXO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_J2G6Ab01249QW
Air tube-
Penn Plax Airline Tubing for Aquariums –Clear and Flexible Resists Kinking, 25 Feet Standard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002563MW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_l3G6AbXFY7BEV
Plastic Tub-
Rubbermaid Commercial FG424300BLA Structural Foam Stock Tank, 50 Gallon Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPBLAU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_U5G6Ab4CHSP90
Cycling biology-
Fluval Biological Enhancer for Aquarium, 8.4-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FPIZ8Y0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_26G6AbAR5QBRK
Aquaclear 50 is what I use on my 20 gallon, and it works well - you can skip the bullshit cartridges that most manufacturers use, I added some floss padding and purigen to polish the water (clarity) and threw out the charcoal filter that came with it. You also might need to cut the sponge that comes with it in half laterally to fit all of this and still have the bio media submerged, but that's easy.
Aquaclear 50 on Amazon
Filter floss on Amazon
Purigen on Amazon
Your LFS will likely have all of these things as well, so it's up to you if you're in a rush or want to save a few $$$ by using Amazon.
And, lastly, this is just what works for me. You might try a different setup - but many other HOB filters don't allow you to customize the filtration all that much, and are just there to sell you cartridges.
HOB filters are the Gilette of the aquarium hobby.
Yeah definitely - I did a fishless cycle for about a month, using only the Fluval overflow filter that comes with the tank. This was great for getting the bio filter stabilized, but the water flow was too strong for a Betta and the mechanical filtration was weak. So I went to my LFS and purchased a KollerCraft TOM Mini Filter, and ran the Fluval system simultaneously with the KollerCraft to ensure the bio filtration transferred to the KC. Since then, I unplugged the Fluval filter and have only run the KC - and it's much more effective filtration. As for lighting, the 7000k LED light that comes with the tank is fantastic, but it's too close to the water line in my opinion. I had nasty algae blooms for a couple weeks, then came across a fellow Redditor who 3D printed the extension for the Spec III. I immediately requested one and received it in the mail a few days later. The combination of the KC Tom Filter and the light extension has resulted in no algae for 6 months. The most important factor is water changes though, so you should be changing 20-30% of the water every few days to keep your water parameters in check. Does this help?
I have this tank! If you think the current is too strong you can get a pre-filter sponge to slip on output nozzle thing (I totally forgot what it's called) to slow it down. I got mine at Petco for like 3 bucks.
https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A1387-EDGE-Pre-Filter-Sponge/dp/B002LL32RY
Beautiful tank!! If you are going to put a betta there I hear that people say the current is to strong so they recommend this sponge so that your betta doesn't have a hard time swimming!
Yah I wouldn't waste money on that filter turtles are messy and you want to have room for a lot of bio media. That filter didn't have its GPH listed but I am going to guess it isn't very much. I usualy aim for my GPH to be about 10X the size of my aquarium, so 40 gallons = 400GHP (but more is better). Check out sunsun canister filters.
http://www.amazon.com/SunSun-HW-304B-External-Canister-Sterilizer/dp/B008986EQO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422547342&sr=8-1&keywords=sun+sun+canister+filter&pebp=1422547397598&peasin=B008986EQO
$70 and you will have 525 GPH and plenty of room for Bio media. I would also suggest going to Walmart or a craft store and buying a big roll of 100% polyester pillow stuffing (no additives or mold resistance). It is the exact same material as you would buy for a filter pad at the pet store but for $5 u can get a giant roll that will last months. Add your choice of bio media and a heater and it will probably be around the $100 mark.
You could also do a community. Go as big as possible. Two canisters, each rated for 75 gallon would be more than enough for a 125. Two of these is decent for a 200. Ahttp://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008986EQO?cache=06ba174150f5f99c861821c037a5d14d&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1408501463&sr=8-2#ref=mp_s_a_1_2 I would do two of those with a 150 gallon if you want an aggressive set up with cichlids, as over filtration is a must for them. You could have lots of fancy goldfish, or 5 or so common/comet. No koi. What's your budget?
Given what you're already adding for fertilizer, your limiting factor is very likely CO2. No point in increasing ferts without increasing carbon, you'll probably just get a bunch of algae that'll take advantage of the excess nutrients your plants aren't using; plants only grow as much as their limiting factor allows.
You can actually set up a DIY CO2 system for relatively cheap. You can get a kit for about 13 bucks, you'll just need to supply sugar, yeast, and some bottles (none of the above being that costly, and you can find them at your local store). Excel can only take you so far.
https://www.amazon.com/DIY-CO2-Aquarium-Plant-System/dp/B008CUZJF6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483941512&sr=8-1&keywords=diy+co2
I don't think you have enough plants to warrant CO2, but a DIY CO2 is pretty easy to setup.
So I got baking soda (got it from local grocers), and got citric acid, locally couldn't find it, so I bought it online: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EYFKNL8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Got this system: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008CUZJF6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fish-Tank-Aquarium-CO2-Diffuser-Check-Valve-U-Shape-Glass-Tube-Suction-Cup-Kit/282701446441?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Cheaply made, very happy with it so far.
After a couple weeks of researching the same thing, I wound up assembling my own rather than getting a kit. I have a 60g with a 5lb tank that I got from a local welding supply store that fits nice in my compact cabinet. Tank cost $60 and $15 to fill/refill. Attached to that is this regulator which I run on a wemo plug to come on only when the lights are on. I use this diffuser (which I think is overkill). All connected by this CO2 proof tubing. Finally, I use this drop checker. Less than $200 invested. It's silent except for the instant that the solenoid switches off/on. I have to trim plants a couple times a month. At two bubbles/sec, I get about 6-8 months between tank refills. Slightly cheaper option may include a paintball tank with adapter.
I have a DIY I built from googling for my 15g. It is a constant pain in the ass to get the mixtures right for given surface agitation and bioload. And then every time you want to make a change, you have to wait a day for the mixture to restart. And if you are using CO2 to lower pH, this causes wild pH swings. And, you can't turn it off at night.
Save yourself pain and buy a real setup:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001DTNWF2?pc_redir=1407847266&robot_redir=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0058XWDFO/ref=pd_aw_sims_5?pi=SL500_SS115&simLd=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0085282UK/ref=pd_aw_sims_2?pi=SY115&simLd=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008UCOFJW/ref=pd_aw_sims_1?pi=SY115&simLd=1
$175 with prime.
EDIT: Jesus I totally forgot about the leaks. Constant leaks in the DIY system. I had several seals give after several weeks of use. So you are never safe. I think I currently have zip ties holding my overflow lines together.
I use this filter - https://www.amazon.com/Camco-TastePURE-Flexible-Protector-40043/dp/B0006IX87S/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Camco+TastePURE+Water+Filter+with+Flexible+Hose+Protector+Greatly+Reduces+Bad+Taste%2C+Odors%2C+Chlorine+and+Sediment+in+Drinking+Water&qid=1559231197&s=gateway&sr=8-1
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Which runs into this RO maker - https://www.amazon.com/Aquatic-Life-Reverse-Osmosis-50-Gallon/dp/B00DOG63OY/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=ro+buddy&qid=1559231240&s=gateway&sr=8-1
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That I then let run into an unused 6.5gal bottling bucket. I still toss a half a tab of campden in on brew day. Then I build up my water profile with salts/acids from there.
The trough was about 60 - https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/rubbermaid-structural-foam-stock-tanks-50-gal-capacity
I used probably one 50lb bag of peat moss from home depot (20 maybe? I don't really remember how much) plus some left over peralite I had. The terracotta pot was also just laying around.
What you can't see but I very quickly figured out I needed was an RO filter with the 100 degree days we're getting. That was another $50 of amazon. Aquatic Life RO Buddie Three Stage Reverse Osmosis, 50-Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DOG63OY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_pLpXqAIkA58Rx
So probably 150ish total.
This unit has been fantastic for me for the past year. After one year of use, it still puts out 0ppm water.
I produce about 3 gallons a day with it (small-ish collection). But obviously it's capable of up to 50 gal/day. Note though that these RO systems put out waste water at a ratio of like 2:1 in my experience (more like 4:1 at the beginning of life), so I have to find something to do with 5-10 gallons of super hard (140ppm) water every day.
If you hate wasting water, consider capturing the waste water in buckets and flush your toilet with it. That's what I do, or occasionally dilute slightly with regular tap water and water your other plants.
Since I currently buy my brewing water at the store, I've been considering buying one of these to produce my own RO water. Obviously it's nowhere near the necessary size for what you'd want in your whole house, but it should be okay for getting brewing water ready. Has anybody used something like this before? (they're commonly used for aquariums and for small hydroponic setups)
You will need a pid temperature controller, water pump, and heating unit, as well as some basic things (a bit of sheathed wire, things to cut and strip it, screwdriver, electrical tape) to wire everything up. The controller and heater can be substituted for cheaper components. You should also get a resistance thermometer (search on ebay, it's like $1) to get higher accuracy than a thermocouple.
pump
controller
heater
I hope this will help.
I'd be curious to know what this sub thinks of this filter. Been contemplating it for my 10g betta tank.
Not the snek, a Python
One of these
Heard good things about this: Python Siphon
Hooks right up to your faucet. This guy gives a pretty nice review about the set up and whatnot.
You may want to invest in a Python hose. It hooks straight up to your faucet. When you're removing water from your tank, it sends the water straight down your sink drain, but when you're adding water it connects to your faucet and goes to your aquarium.
No need for buckets, heaters or spilling water. Pretty easy.
They're a bit pricey but well worth it.
https://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467132484&sr=8-1&keywords=python+aquarium+water+changer
> honestly, I wouldn't put him in there, get him something around 5g and he'll be soooo stoked. even a full gallon would be passable.
Agreed x100. Basing a 55 around a SINGLE FUCKING BETTA is a huge mistake imo. You can do so many cool things with a tank that size, why limit yourself to what gets along with the most basic of basic predatory fishes? You probably would not ever see the betta anyway, they become much less interested in you when they have a big tank + friends + things to look at inside the tank.
Also OP get yourself a python (for water changes) you'll thank me later.
I was intimidated by the line from the sink thing for years, and lugged 5 gallon buckets back and forth every week. I finally paid something like $40 for one of the large tubes that hooks up to your sink, and my life has been much better since -- as have my fish. Honestly, just get one of these (or something like it) right now: https://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC You can save yourself a world of pain down the road -- I really wish I had done it sooner.
Brief exposure to chlorine while things are mixing up isn't going to hurt your fish. With all of the chemicals, I swirl them a few mls at a time in a pint glass full of tank water (I keep a "fish glass" next to the aquarium) then dribble that concentrated solution around the tank while I mix it in. My biggest concern is making sure the fish don't get a facefull of algae eliminator or something that could actually cause pain/damage them.
The water temperature is a little tricker. You can run back and forth between the sink and the tank and do water temperature comparisons before you actually flip the switch and send the water over. After it's flipped, I hold one hand under the "new" water coming out and another at the opposite end of the tank, and make any fine-tune changes I need to then.
First-timer in over his head here. Could use an assist with setup. The ultimate goal is setting up something my (soon-to-be) 2 year old daughter will enjoy watching.
Planning on purchasing:
Tank & Stand: Aqueon 45G tank ensemble - $250
Light: LED - Included with tank
Filter: MarineLand Penguin 200 Power Wheel - $21
Heater: Orlushy Submersible Aquarium Heater 150W - $18
Python: Python No Spill Clean and Fill Aquarium Maintenance System - $40, 24 inch adapter - $10, [hook] (https://smile.amazon.com/Python-Spill-Aquarium-Gravel-24-Inch/dp/B004PBHX4G/ref=pd_bxgy_199_img_2/146-3053739-1242457?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B004PBHX4G&pd_rd_r=42a7c2bc-877d-414d-b0c9-2960fa629e40&pd_rd_w=q7tkK&pd_rd_wg=fjx36&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=ZE4SB0SAMR7BKXT7Z4QW&psc=1&refRID=ZE4SB0SAMR7BKXT7Z4QW) - $20, and this adapter for my non-threaded faucet - $12
Conditioner: [API Water Conditioner] (https://smile.amazon.com/API-CONDITIONER-Aquarium-Conditioner-16-Ounce/dp/B004LO9KSY/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2SD31AR7OVW3V&keywords=water+conditioner+aquarium&qid=1567987105&s=gateway&sprefix=water+condition%2Caps%2C159&sr=8-3) - $7
Bacteria: [API Quick Start] (https://smile.amazon.com/API-CONDITIONER-Aquarium-Conditioner-16-Ounce/dp/B004LO9KSY/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2SD31AR7OVW3V&keywords=water+conditioner+aquarium&qid=1567987105&s=gateway&sprefix=water+condition%2Caps%2C159&sr=8-3) - $4
Test Kits: [API 5-in-1 Test Strips] (https://smile.amazon.com/5-IN-1-AQ-Test-Strips-100CT/dp/B077YS7Y4Y/ref=sr_1_3?crid=VPPBFJ1NJSMG&keywords=api%2Btest%2Bkit&qid=1567987538&s=gateway&sprefix=api%2Btest%2Caps%2C210&sr=8-3&th=1) - $26
That takes me up to $408. That leaves me about $100-150 in the budget my wife gave me to get decorations and the fish themselves. (It was supposed to be $500, but we always go slightly over budget)
Any recommendations on large and colorful fish that could attract and keep a toddler's attention? Preferably peaceful.
Any other recommended tweaks to the build? I haven't purchased anything yet, so I'm willing to completely scrap this and start over if somebody has a better idea of how to use the money.
I can't say much because you didn't specify what your parents are against and what you've done so far to try to convince them.
But from my experience (had to convince my parents too) collect as much information as possible and show it to them in a calm, non confrontational/emotional manner.
Info such as:
How much money do you have? Be prepared to use your own money. Look around on craigslist/letitgo/etc for good tank deals. If you're short on money and can't find any good deals, consider using storage bins or other alternatives.
Keeping it very clean, visually pleasing (eg live plants), and quiet (eg noise from the spray bar and air stones) also helps.
Who's going to keep up with water changes and care? How old are you? Do you plan to move out soon? Since goldfish tanks are huge, water changes can quickly become a drag (unless you have money for a python or a similar setup) .
Alternatively, find someone that will take the goldfish and get a betta or other suitable fish for a 10 gal. Happy fish and your parents still get to "care" for a fish!
https://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC
​
Yes I am being serious. Goldfish are messy fish, they require an active owner.
It’s less than 50 actually
I have five tanks: 38g, 20,20,20,10. It takes me ten to 15 minutes to do 50% changes on three of my EI dosed tanks and 25% on my low techs. 👌🏼 my husband got it for me when my back was hurting from buckets, and it totally saved me.
In theory you could get yourself a few A/B valves like this. The problem is that the only way you can "suck water back in" is if you push it through the canister filter. Obviously the problem there is that you can't treat the water.
Though I'd suggest just getting a python. You just connect it to the faucet, turn the water on and switch it to "drain mode" to remove water from the tank. When you're done, reverse the flow and it'll start putting water into the aquarium instead. After all the new water is in the tank, you treat it and re-engage your filter.
https://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC
I use this and it helps a lot. No buckets
https://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC
Not sure if its available in UK, it is a couple of pounds over your budget but a very good gravel vac otherwise.
My life became a lot easier and my tank became a lot cleaner when I removed the substrate. Your turtle doesn't care about the rocks on the bottom of the tank, and it may try to eat any that are small enough.
That being said - it sounds like you guys are doing 100% water changes, which is overkill (and removes the bacteria that make up a good environment). Most people recommend 20-50% water changes depending on how dirty things are.
If the rocks are river rocks, then I'd just fill up a bucket with the rocks and carry that to strain/wash them. You can use a traditional hose with suction to empty dirty water, or something like this python aquarium cleaner. Basically you hook it up to your sink and can fill up a tank OR drain it using suction. You may not have a sink that has the right threading though - I had 2 apartments where it wouldn't work and now I need an adapter, but its amazing.
You could also get a better filter. Getting an external canister instead of the internal ones that hang on the side (which never stay on...) was a huge plus for me.
There are probably also water vacuums that would help. But I don't know of any.
Easiest thing though is to get rid of the substrate. Stick to doing 30%ish water changes instead of cleaning it completely. Perhaps upgrade your filter (you should probably have a filter rated for a 80+ gallon tank).
I recommend this one make sure you get the large version that has the double sponges. Then you just connect an air pump with some airline tubing
Also I recommend getting a 10g since they are probably cheaper and more stable since you have a larger volume of water. And stable water means a higher survival rate of your shrimp.
For example here:
10 Gallon tank for 14,99 http://www.petsmart.com/fish/supplies/aquariums-and-stands/aquariums/grreat-choice-10-gallon-glass-aquarium-2831264.html
A double sponge filter which is good for twice the aquarium volume (cleaner water double sponge is double bacteria). for 3,99
https://www.amazon.com/XY-2822-Double-Sponge-Filter-Aquarium/dp/B005VAFGKI/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1478978662&sr=8-5&keywords=sponge+filter
An air pump for 5,59
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009YJ4N6/ref=pd_sim_199_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CWY7AKPMJBQJY3AXT7X2
25 feet tubing 3.23
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002563MW/ref=pd_sim_199_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CWY7AKPMJBQJY3AXT7X2
14,49 for a heater
https://www.amazon.com/Submersible-Aquarium-Heater-Freshwater-Saltwater/dp/B017UK0ZUW/ref=sr_1_25?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1478978931&sr=1-25-spons&keywords=10+g+heater&psc=1
That's twice the size for 42,40. You will only need to buy a light and those can be as cheap or expensive as you want but this not required and purely aesthetic again.
I highly suggest getting some type of foam/sponge thing to put over that filter intake. I lost a beloved ADF as a result of my oversight. His foot got stuck in one of the slats and he ended up drowning (they need to go to the surface roughly every 30 minutes to get air if I remember correctly). It was horrible taking his body off the intake :(
I'm only saying this because I don't want you to repeat what I went through.
I personally have 2 in a 2.5 gallon tank, but they are the only things living in it. So a question would be, do you plan on having other things such as fish? If you have fish, then probably 2 for 10 gallons. If not, then I could see 5 in a 10 gallon being fine.
And like u/numb3rb0y suggested, I would focus some more hides as well. Overall though, I like the tank set-up :)
I use this, which is a just a discounted version of this.
Visually it's cumbersome, but it works like a charm. If my tank were facing the other direction (I have it so the return nozzle is at the "front") it would be a lot less noticeable.
Despite the space it takes, I feel like Touch has regained part of the tank that he wasn't really enjoying, because the return current was so strong that he was getting a little blown around in there.
I actually use that filter on one of my 10 gallons as well, provides lots of flow for the tank which is good, and good filtration as well. I would maybe suggest changing out the ceramic rings with ehiem media or seachem matrix media, somehting with a bit more surface area, and you would never need to worry about filtration issues. I also recommend putting one of these http://www.amazon.com/Pre-Filter-Sponge-Pack-Fluval-Aquarium/dp/B004K9A15G/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1343104756&sr=8-3&keywords=fluval+prefilter+sponge on the intake of the filter, this will keep the maintenance to a minimum, because it would clog less and the sponge provides additional surface area for beneficial bacteria, i dont have a single tank with out sponge prefilters.
they also make steel mesh prefilters.
check some out here
and here
I used these, same thing I think, worked perfectely on my Sunsun, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004K9A15G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
like this? - https://www.amazon.com/XY-2831-Sponge-Filter-Aquarium-10-gallon/dp/B0056XVF82
do you think i'll have any luck finding something like that in the retail pet stores or should i just get it off of amazon?
I would suggest a couple of things. I'm a cheapskate at heart, so take what I say with a grain of salt. A 10G tank is a perfect starting volume, but I think you can do it with way less up front cost.
First, I'd hold off on the CO2 kit until your tank gets established and you determine that CO2 is needed. For a 10G tank, you may find that a DIY kit is fine. I personally got a CO2 setup, but only because I found this one on clearance for $5 (http://www.amazon.com/Nutrafin-Natural-System-Activator-Stabilizer/dp/B00026058Y). It's essentially a commercial version of the standard DIY kit, and it bubbles for 2-3 months per charge.
Second, you may want to stay away from the HOB filter. I've got about a half-dozen of them around the house, but I have found that I really like the sponge filters way better, especially if you want to keep your cherry shrimp babies from getting sucked up. They do an excellent job with biological filtration, and if you just squeeze/rinse one of them out each time you do a water change, it will do a decent job at mechanical filtration as well. Can't beat the price either. http://www.amazon.com/Aquarium-Biochemical-Sponge-Filter-Fish/dp/B0056XVF82
I think your fish selection is great, but just wanted to note to you that Glowlight tetras are "moderately difficult to breed", so if you'd like a nice sustainable colony it may be worth checking out some of the livebearers. Nothing like buying 5 fish and then having 30 in a few months... I'm currently raising Endler's guppies. The males really make the tank pop, and they stay small so having 20-30 in the tank isn't too much bioload.
For plants, I think you've got the right idea with starting with some HC and then add more later. I'd also search around a bit and see if there is a local aquarium group. Trading is way better than buying... after going to my local Aquatic Plant Club monthly meeting I always walk away with 5-7 plants that I didn't have before. Your job will then be to grow like crazy to bring more back to the group for the ever-present "new guy" to get started.
For 3D supports, you may want to check out using "egg-crate", or lighting diffuser. It's dirt cheap from Home Depot and will hopefully keep the water/sediment from stagnating underneath your mountains.
Hope this helps, I'd try to spend as little as possible until you identify areas that need improvement.
Can't say for certain if that will be good. It might create too much current. I've had good luck with https://www.amazon.com/XY-2831-Sponge-Filter-Aquarium-10-gallon/dp/B0056XVF82
If you go filterless try using a wood diffuser, they put out finer bubbles than the regular kind, which should cut down on the flow. Also go for the smallest air pump you can find, this will probably make the biggest difference.
I have this bubble filter, and if you put the spout above the water the bubbles pretty much pop on impact with the water.
I don't think it's the size of the bubbles that really matters, I would be more worried about making a choke point, if the bubbles start to build up, you're not going to be moving any water. But i've never tried putting something on the outflow of mine.
I've kept Bettas on a budget before- there are some things that you really do need, and some things you can do ugly and cheap. The trouble is that you're starting with two and have limited space, a bad combination. I'd suggest you really try hard to rehome at least one, but proceeding on the idea that you're absolutely determined to keep both, I'll lay out the least expensive way to get things done in my experience.
To pick up now:
-Dechlorinater/water conditioner: In your grandma's days, there were fewer additives in water than they are now, and not all of them gas off when left to sit out. If you absolutely can't afford even a tiny container of prime, which can really help in small tank situations because it temporarily neutralizes ammonia- then pick up a cheaper water treatment. Most pet stores carry generic ones, or API is $4 and change on amazon. Can't emphasize enough how much better prime would be though. The smallest bottle should last you for a couple months, so don't worry too much about volume.
-If you can do it, Petco's dollar/gallon sale is the best value you're likely to get on a 10G, as mentioned. Failing that, check your local thrift stores. I think a 10G would be ideal for you if you can make it work- it'll be cheapest and the least amount of maintenance, if you use dividers. Here's a way to make mesh dividers for it yourself from things you can pick up at any craft store, for a couple bucks total (you can also make lids out of the same material). I've made these before and as long as you measure them right, they work fine. If you absolutely can't get or fit a 10g, you bare minimum need about 3g per betta in separate containers or you'll be courting ammonia burns and finrot super quickly. Bowls aren't ideal, but if you're doing a temporary setup they may be easier to find. Be creative if you have to- you want something with horizontal swimming space, rather than vertical (avoid anything taller than it is long), but there are all kinds of odd glass vessels at your average salvation army. A ~3.5 gallon spherical bowl is going to be 12" in diameter. Anything with flat sides, measure and calculate the rough volume in cubic inches, then convert to gallons. Whatever you get, clean it thoroughly. If you use bleach, let it sit out in the sun for a few hours before filling it with water.
-Hides: Cheapest part. In college I had a Betta setup with a half-buried coffee mug and some silk plants from Michaels in it. Grab a couple mugs at the thrift store or throw in your least favorites. You want ceramic not plastic or metal, minimal or no paint if possible. Bury them halfway in the substrate. Craft store silk plants are inexpensive and are fine in a pinch, just boil them first. You want at least some that reach up to the top of the tank, to give them cover at all levels.
-Substrate: Whatever's cheapest is fine. A 5lb bag of imaginarium sand will run you $5 or so at petsmart. If you have a local fish store, they may sell gravel or sand in bulk for cents to the pound, so you could call around and ask. Whatever you use give it a quick rinse before adding it.
-Here's a $10 adjustable amazon heater. If you're doing two 5 gallons, get two 25 watts. A 10 gallon divided, get the 50 watt. A heater goes a long long way to keeping your fish healthy- once you need to start buying medicine your budget is blown. You won't see many non-adjustable ones for much less than this, and they're less reliable since they heat at a constant rate regardless of water temp. Get a cheap glass thermometer with it, they're in any big-box pet store.
To pick up soon:
-Filters and pumps: Sponge filters are the way to go in small betta setups for sure, and they are extremely cheap online. Here's one for $2 for a 10G; here's the one I use in my 7G for $4. Make sure to carefully read the guide on cycling before you put a filter in, because things will get less stable before they get more stable, which is why in your situation I'd be vigilant about water changes (see the caresheet for frequency) and put off the filter til you can afford an API test kit. Because things can spike so so fast, it's really not advisable to run through a fish-in cycle blind in any small tank. You'll pair it with an air pump, this one's $7.
-API master test kit: This is the most expensive thing on the list, which is the only reason it's under later. API also makes test strips, but they're $10 for a pack of 25, wheras the master test kit has far far more uses in it for $20 and is much more accurate. Knowing your water parameters is good any day, but essential once you introduce any kind of filter.
Altogether I think you could get this kind of absolute barebones setup done for around $30 up front and $30 later if you play your cards right, less if you find a home for one fish. It'll still require elbow grease to put together, though.
You could get something like this, or even something half that size, and then a super cheap air pump. Sponge filters are air driven. But yeah, for ten or fifteen bucks you could easily have a good sponge filter set up. They are great for shrimp and most serious shrimp breeders use them.
Good on you for taking the poor guy!
First, the spots don't really look like ich. Ich is more like the fish has salt grains sprinkled on them. The spots on the this guy look like either fungus or bacteria. Also, from the picture, it looks like he has some pretty bad fin rot and he's very pale.
I see an air pump, is it hooked up to anything in the tank? I don't see a filter, but you can use that air pump to set up a sponge filter.
The tank itself looks to be ok, although a very odd shape... I'm thinking it's probably 2.5-3 gallons which is alright for a betta (though 5 gallons is ideal)
Honestly, if there's no filter or bubble stone, I'd do a 100% water change, rinse the gravel really well to get any detritus out (judging by the state of the tank, I'm sure there's a lot...). Until you get a filter, you should do 50-75% changes every day. Look up fish-in cycling as well. I'm sure we have a link in our wiki. Scoop the little guy into a holding cup while you change the water, then slowly acclimate to the cleaner water. With his compromised immune system, too much stress may be a death sentence.
Like I said about the spots, it looks like a fungus or bacterial infection. Bacterial is more common and would fit with the MO of fin rot, so I'd start with that for treating. Any antibacterial would be good, but get him in clean water first.
Can you take a pic of the heater?
As far as buddies go, a single snail or a few shrimp would be fine with him. Nerite snails are one of my favorites. They eat all kinds of algae, lay eggs that don't hatch in freshwater, come in lots of colors, and stay relatively small. DO NOT do a mystery snail, they get huge and produce a lot of waste. Ghost or amano shrimp are good choices. Shrimp are much more sensitive to water quality though, so make sure you get the tank fixed before adding anything.
Finally, definitely get this test kit. You'll need it for cycling and is much more accurate and cost effective than strips.
Get a sponge filter like this: https://www.amazon.com/XINYOU-XY-2835-Aquarium-Cylinder-Sponge/dp/B005LMQCW2/ref=asc_df_B005LMQCW2/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167154348866&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=46583133798037292&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9032191&hvtargid=pla-307225004780&psc=1
Get some gravel and maybe some plants like anacharis. Fill the tank, dechlorinate the water. Let the tank run for a week with nothing in it. Add some food when you start this. Dont fill the tank to the top, leave about an inch or an inch and a half at the top (for the mystery snail). (Read about cycling your tank).
Red cherry shrimp eat mostly biofilm and algae. So if you feed lightly, they'll clean up the tank. Mystery snails eat veggies so a blanched zucchini or spinach is definitely good for them. They need a lot of calcium so spinach and dark greens are recommended.
Change 10-20% of your water volume each week. Vacuum the gravel to remove poop. Dechlorinate before you add the water. If you put anacharis in there, prune them monthly. Throw away bottoms of the plants, as tops are where they actively grow. You can keep them in the gravel or floating. It doesnt matter. Monthly take your sponge filter out, and squeeze it out in the water you took out of your tank before you throw it away. Dont rinse it in tap.
If you want you can add some wood like oak or cholla wood into the tank. Make sure you soak the wood in a bucket for a good long time, maybe weeks, until it sinks and the water stops turning brown. Boiling can help it along faster. Wood will help bacteria grow and give the shrimp more food.
Tank: I would suggest a 10G tank if you want tankmates other than ghost shrimps and snails. Petco $1 per Gallon sale is here until April 12. So a 10G would be $10. A 5G isn't part of the sale so the price of that is around $14. Cheaper to get a 10G!
Once of you an appropriate sized tank, some tetras would work or an ADF would work. What kind of tetras are you thinking of getting? Keep in mind that there are quite a few tetras that won't work with Bettas because they nip the long fins of the Betta.
Filter: I would suggest a sponge filter/air pump. That's what I use in my betta tank. It filters the water but don't create a current so the betta won't get pushed around and stressed.
What you'd need for a sponge filter:
Heater: I haven't used enough heaters to really recommend a brand but adjustable ones would work the best and you can control the temperature better.
I hope this helps!
I have three 2.5 gal tanks and I would not go smaller with shrimp. I have a 1.5 gallon jarrarium but it only has Amphipods and snails. I would NOT put shrimp in anything smaller. It is extremely hard to handle temp variations especially is winter and summer. And I would not do shrimp for your first one.
I would go buy a 2.5 gallon aquarium at Petsmart. Get the glass lid at Drs Foster and Smith online, a VersaTop. And then I would get a little sponge fllter like this and/or a HOB like this, I used both. And a Cobalt Aquatics 5 watt heater. Or an Aqueon 10 watt heater. And be prepared to alternate based on how bad your winters are. But, I would not recommend it if this is your first tank.
Azoo Mignon 60
Here you go.
AZOO Mignon Filter 60 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005VEWCMO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VRM0Cb8F305VV
I got the kit at Petsmart, but it's widely available. [Here you go!] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00324X5L2)
It is currently (over)stocked with 6 serpae tetras, 1 zebra danio, and 1 green cory. In a month or so it's going to be broken down when I transition to a larger tank, and will be restocked with one betta and one peppered cory, much more in line with its capacity.
I'm running the stock lights and in-tank filter, though I'm eyeing the Azoo Mignon 60, as supposedly it will fit this tank and free up some space/look better IMHO. Running an airstone off a Whisper pump, too.
Definitely! The tank is a pretty standard rimless glass, which i bought from my LFS. The other parts I purchased online:
The substrate is pool sand, and the dark green moss is actually a marimo moss ball that i took apart and glued to the rock with superglue :)
Many filters are too strong for Bettas, including my Top Fin filter (it was gonna go in the trash anyway - it's crap). That being said, check out the link below and read the top comment. Many filters can be modified to suit your fish. Sponge filters can have extra sponge added to them to reduce suction.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005VEWCMO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I would suggest the Aqueon, or better yet get an AquaClear. Actually, for a 75 I would suggest getting a SunSun 304B canister. You'll thank me later.
But yeah, for a 75, you're looking at 650+ pounds. More with rocks and substrate. So you're going to need a heavy duty stand that distributes the weight evenly across the floor- i.e. not on 4 legs.
If you dont give a shit about how it looks, just a simple wall of cinder blocks with some joined 2x4s on top would work and be cheap. If you do care, you're gonna want to not skimp on your stand. Order a high quality stand from Petco, Petsmart, or another online retailer.
You can have the best fish tank in the world but if you put it on a wonky stand, you might as well just spill the tank over yourself and get it over with.
Would recommend this one: https://www.amazon.com/Aqua-Clear-Power-Filter-AquaClear/dp/B000260FUM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1536260246&sr=8-2&keywords=aquaclear+filter
It would work good for a 20 gallon tank and it has an adjustable flow switch, so you can mess around with that to find the perfect flow for your axolotl, they are all different and it depends on the size. But it would never hurt to also have a sponge filter in there, but a single sponge filter isn't going to cut it as the only source of cleaning.
I'll just give you my generalize copy/pasta I usually hand out in situations like these so if you wanna read it when you got a chance, then you have it! Also has tips and purchase links for Amazon as well for different axolotl stuffs.
HOW TO CYCLE:
Warnings:
1.If your tank isn't cycled, you are going to chemical burn them with ammonia in the water. And they will suffer. Nitrate ( the final of the chemical process) can also burn the fish/axolotl. This is why we keep this number under 40ppm. If it is higher than 40ppm, change the water 75%.
*NOTE: Most bottles of beneficial bacteria say they cycle a tank in a day. Cycling can take up to a month in some cases but usually just two weeks if you keep on it. This requires constantly monitoring, testing and replacing most of the water in the tank when you get high ammonia/nitrite levels. You need ammonia/nitrite to be 0 and nitrate to be more than 0. Definitely less <40. If all your levels are higher than this, or if nitrate remains 0, your tank isn't cycled.***
Summery;
So basically, cycling builds beneficial bacteria which makes these waste breakdown chemicals go through a cycle of breaking down into a less dangerous form which keeps fish/axolotl from getting sick/dying. ... Most new fish people don't do this. And fish store employees try & tell them just adding something like seachem stability fixes this. It doesn't. An uncycled tank is basically new tank syndrome and it kills animals.
You still are going to need to keep an eye on chemical levels after the cycle..Occasionally different things can cause the cycle to "crash", like changing the filters or a high tempeture, or the filters becoming dry..
Once your tank is cycled, and you have an axolotl, honestly it's not that much work. The cycles the worst part. I feed my adult axolotls once every other day, I change 75% of their water twice a month, and add water to top it off / spot clean occasionally two-three other times a month due to the water I lose due to evaporation.
Stuff you'll need:
Links:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001R1RXUG?aaxitk=NqgMhM9.r7.gAHICKezCoA&amp;pd_rd_i=B001R1RXUG&amp;pf_rd_p=0ef604ef-c787-43e9-9404-52a4ff25a95c&amp;hsa_cr_id=8386596470601&amp;sb-ci-n=asinImage&amp;sb-ci-v=https%3A%2F%2Fimages-na.ssl-images-amazon.com%2Fimages%2FI%2F71pMktGGyRL.jpg&amp;sb-ci-a=B001R1RXUG
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002AQITK/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1549784880&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=tank+thermometer
4.
Air pump + line + stone.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B073DWVX5P/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1549784937&amp;sr=8-11&amp;keywords=air+pump+for+aquarium&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41%2BcSpzfDgL&amp;ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000260FUM/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1549785038&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=hob+filter&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41Rr1kpTVOL&amp;ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01F88BMC8/ref=mp_s_a_1_3_a_it?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1549785094&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=shower+pouf
Prime; https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00025694O/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1549785181&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=seachem+prime&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41Q0rRc8NML&amp;ref=plSrch
Stablity:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002APIIW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1549785210&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=seachem+stability
Pellets:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0787T25J1/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1549785278&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=axolotl+pellets
Repashy:
https://www.chewy.com/repashy-superfoods-meat-pie-gel/dp/166289?utm_source=google-product&amp;utm_medium=cpc&amp;utm_campaign=f&amp;utm_content=Repashy%20Superfoods&amp;utm_term=&amp;gclid=Cj0KCQiAkfriBRD1ARIsAASKsQLQAXpk3WwGiCwRMr6OQmbfUXPIZutYnADrujltXxW1PPSVgYpPduEaAmAaEALw_wcB
Ice cube trays for repashy( frozen is better. It's a jello. It will really trash your tank. So frozen is better):
https://www.amazon.com/niceCube-Mini-Ice-Cube-Trays/dp/B01L7ZFBXW/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1549785496&amp;sr=8-2-spons&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=mini+ice+cube+tray&amp;psc=1
https://www.arcatapet.com/m/item.cfm?cat=22600&amp;source=GA-PLA00522600&amp;fullsite=0
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B011DDJZ9Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1549785739&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=aquarium+vacuum
Feeding tongs: They're actually tweezers for planting a planted fish tank. These can grip worms very well.. The Amazon ones that are silver suck and will make your life hell. Don't waste your money on ones on amazon unless you can find these on Amazon.
https://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/product/fish/feeding-accessories/fluval-straight-forceps
Congrats on the first tank! My most successful tank was a 20 long, and honestly I think about going back very often.
If you're looking for a simple entry-level start to filtration, I would go with a simple hang-on-back filter (or HOB for short as they're called in the reefing community). You could absolutely add a small refugium/sump as mentioned here as well, which would increase your water volume and filtration ability, allowing you to get one or two more fish in the system, however as I'm sure you know it will be a bit more expensive and complicated to set up, with a few extra risks regarding any blockages in pumps.
If you're looking into the HOB option, I would recommend my personal favorite, the AquaClear filter (you can get it here https://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-50-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FUM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1486060633&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=aquaclear+filter). I fill mine with the provided media (I replace the bag of carbon monthly with my own bags that I fill which are a bit cheaper), along with a small filter bag of phoslock to remove some of the phosphates on the top. Overall it's a relatively easy setup, and you can clean the sponge filter every week or two when you do water changes to get rid of any of the detritus that builds up.
Good luck with the tank!
I would highly suggest you stay away from the integrated kit approach and buy components. As someone currently trying to overcome an Eclipse system, the burdens far outweigh the benefit of integrations and ease. There's more than enough on getting adequate components here, and I would be happy to help you out with the decision, as would others.
Seeing as how you (thankfully) seem to like to take your time and do this right, I offer you some suggestions:
Good luck. There's lot to research and plan, as well as to spend on, but getting a good setup is so rewarding and relaxing, that it pays back in spades.
I guess it all depends on what you'll be stocking. There is no such thing as over filtering but at the same time you don't want your filter to be so over sized that its going to be blowing your plants and fish around. I would suggest going with an aquaclear 50. Its rated for tanks from 20-50 gallons. Just a tad more expensive on amazon that the aquaclear 30 you linked above.
https://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-50-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FUM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1506557271&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=aquaclear+filter
Aquaclear filter! You can adjust the flow and it comes with a filter sponge and biomedia so you don't have to get anything else.
Edit: here it is
Honestly I wouldn't bother with a kit. They are usually not that great.
Get a 5 or 10 gallon tank from wherever, walmart, petco, etc. 5-10 gallon tanks don't get much better unless you want to go with a high dollar tank with built in filters etc. You do want a hood. A clear glass hood is best as you can grow plants if you want later. If it fits your budget and you have room, a 20 Long is an amazing assed tank. Petco/Petsmart sells them for $34.
Next, get an Aquaclear 20 . They are perfect for a 5-20 gallon tank and won't be too much for your betta. you can adjust the flow rate so it will work. Aquaclear is the best I've used as it's dead silent and most importantly uses real bio media. You don't need to buy stupid expensive disposable filters. Disposable filters are horrible as you throw away most of your beneficial bacteria when you change cartridges. Aquaclear has a rinsable sponge which should be able to be used for a decade.
You'll need a heater. Get one that matches the size of tank.
I highly recommend doing a planted tank. It adds a lot to the tank and your fish will like the plants. I suggest doing a dirt capped tank. Look at this. Don't worry about "mineralizing" if you hear people talk about this as it's pointless IMO. If you do this method, be sure to get some frogbit or water spangles (check /r/AquaSwap ) to keep water parameters in effect. Frogbit eats extra nutrients, without this algae can be a problem. I capped my dirt with black diamond blasting sand (available at Tractor Supply), but pool filter sand (well rinsed) works great too. A Walstad type tank makes plants thrive, and the soil releases a little bit of tannins which bettas love. The tannins aren't extreme, you'll not notice them as far as water clarity goes.
EDIT: Thought I'd add, the next tank I do will be a HMF (Hamburg Mattenfilter). They are very elegant in their simplicity and not even possible to harm a fish with. You can hide heaters in the filter chamber, a corner HMF basically disappears, plus I'll grow plants in front of it so it will be practically invisible.
Well you said a 10 gallon right? I recommend you get this filter aqua clear 20 get a bottle ofStability and pour it for 8 days reading the directions in your water and on your filter media (the bead looking ones) not the ones in the black bag. Oh and this has two settings high and low keep it on low and make a water bottle baffle If your looking for a good heater that keeps your tank at 80 this is your heater
The Aquaclear 20 is probably the best HOB for that sized tank that I've ever found. I clean it about once a month, but I never change the sponge or bio media, just rinse them out in tank water during water changes. I also have an Aquaclear 70 (same filter but bigger) on a 40 gallon thats ~15 years old and still going strong.
As far as equipment goes, get an AquaClear 20 (or 30) filter, an Aqueon (or other reliable brand, I've used Hydor with good luck) ADJUSTABLE heater. A thermometer. The lights you get depends on what you plan on doing with your tank. You're also going to need a water testing kit, a dechlorinator (most people will recommend Seachem Prime).
Is this going to be your first aquarium?
Bettas can get along with a variety of community fish. Whether an individual betta does is up to the fish--they do have different personalities so while one betta may be mellow and be perfectly fine with tankmates, another may not take too kindly to other fish in his space.
There are a few things you can do to maximize your chances of success in keeping betta with tankmates.
One is to not pick any fish to go in with the betta that are very brightly coloured and/or have long, flowing fins, because the betta is likely to mistake this other fish as another male betta.
The other is to introduce the other fish first; if when putting the betta into his new home, the other fish are already there, he's more likely to just accept their existence, whereas if you try to add new fish to HIS tank once he's already settled in, he'll see them as intruders.
A good bet with bettas are corydoras catfish, in a 10g you could do dwarf or pygmy corydoras which are the smallest species. Since they're bottom-level fish, they won't really intrude much on the betta's space because most bettas are middle to top level fish. One thing to note is that if you get corys you'll also want to do sand substrate, since gravel can damage their barbels.
So here is a list of potential gear, there are a couple of options on some categories:
10 Gallon Standard Tank $10 in-store at Petco (Dollar per Gallon ends the 19th BTW)
AquaClear Hang On Back Filter $28 This is a little pricey, but it's probably the best hang on back filter on the market. It's more powerful than the other ones I've listed. Part of why it's so great is because it's very customizable, you can put your own filter media in if you want (the stuff it comes with is not bad though). Also it's really easy to clean which is a plus.
Aqueon Quietflow Internal Power Filter $14 A lot of people don't like internal filters because it's a bit messier to clean since it's fully submerged; personally I don't mind cleaning it and also because it's totally underwater I find it a lot quieter that most filters which might be a good thing if you're keeping it in your bedroom. I'd suggest not using the little cartridge it comes with and stuffing it with your own biomedia and filter floss, but it's powerful and compact.
Tetra Whisper in Tank Filter $11 This is the only filter here I don't personally own, but I believe a lot of people on /r/bettafish use this one and like it.
Glass Canopy $20 Not necessary, but I think they look nicer than a bulky plastic hood. I do suggest some kind of covering for your tank since bettas are known to jump. It could be something as simple as a big sheet of plastic canvas cut to fit, which is a couple dollars.
So technically the above gear, assuming you buy the most inexpensive filter option, comes to $41 pretax. A little over the $39.99 all in one kit you originally wanted, but you are getting twice the gallonage, and also higher-quality gear--glass tank instead of plastic, and a semi-decent filter. And again, you could go a lot cheaper on the lid if you were so inclined and either save your money or put it towards a more expensive filter.
You'll also need a heater for a betta. I think a lot of fishkeepers have their favourite brands for this kind of thing, Hydor Theo is mine, self-regulating glass heaters are way better than the plastic pad kind without regulators because it turns itself on and off automatically as needed. Also, I would recommend ALWAYS getting a heater that can be adjusted to whatever temperature you need. Treating certain illnesses require you to turn up or down the temperature so that's an invaluable feature IMO. Also the knob on this model (unlike a lot of brands I've tried) is really easy to turn so that's kind of a bonus when your hands are all wet.
Hmm odd that the water fizzed up. Did you rinse out the tank and rinse off the carbon and decorations before putting them in? The fact that you can smell chlorine is probably a good indicator you are best of to switch to a different water conditioner. (I like Seachem Prime.) Betta's like a low flow filter so just keep an eye on the filter or even switch to a sponge filter, or filter with a sponge over the intake, etc. Remeber to test your tap water too! I will link some products I have used or similar to those I have used in the past and had success with. (It may be a good idea to compare prices at your LFS store to Amazon, as I know my local Petsmart/Petco charges a fortune for a lot of aquarium items without much selection.)
API Freshwater Test Kit (Amazon wow $19.99 right now!) or at your LFS -Don't buy the test strips.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000255NCI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
SeaChem Prime ($4-$13 depending on size from Amazon or at your LFS. I swear by Prime.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002568S6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
A thermometer is a good idea to make sure your heater does not create a major issue. I do not use this exact one but figured I would add it to the list with a link ($2)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002AQITK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
Here I will just attach a link for a sponge filter I use in a 10 gallon (~$12). You will need some airline hosing and an air pump (tetra air pump works) if you get it, though I think it may be a little big for a 4 gallon. Also, an aquaclear is by far my favorite HOB filter if you go that route. Hopefully, your filter will workout!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXRDZPO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A316L92SV4DH0Y&amp;psc=1
Tetra Air pump (~$7)
https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-77851-Whisper-Pump-10-Gallon/dp/B0009YJ4N6/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1506349229&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=tetra%2Bair%2Bpump&amp;th=1
Aquaclear 20 (110V ~$25): This may be a little big for your 4 gallon, not sure as I have the Aquaclear 50 on my 30 gallon but I will add it along just in case.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000260FVG/ref=twister_B00MO35VD2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Airline Tubing (a few dollars, great to have)
Household Ammonia without surfactant (to do your fishless cycle) see link http://www.fishkeeping.co.uk/articles_51/fishless-cycling-article.htm
If you decide to go with silk aquarium plants, they have few fun options online. I would also suggest really plants as they will help reduce nitrates in the future. Some good low-tech plants would be anubias, or java fern (and some others). These can be tied to a rock or driftwood as don't need to be placed in the gravel/sand/soil itself. (A small clip-on LED for an aquarium should work
if you go this route.)
https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/wiki/plantsetc
I would provide food options, but r/bettafish has done a great job!
https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/wiki/food
Here are a few they have mentioned:
Ocean Nutrition Atison's Betta Food (~12)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/huc/view.html?ie=UTF8&amp;newItems=C38WET63RPACA8%2C1
New Life Spectrum Betta Formula (~$10)
https://www.amazon.com/New-Life-Spectrum-Formula-Semi-Float/dp/B0038JTL1Y/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1506350883&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=New+Life+Spectrum+Betta+Pellets
Hikari Betta Bio-Gold (~$13)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013EXTU7S/ref=twister_B00ZJZMXIS?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
You should be able to find frozen daphnia, and frozen brine shrimp at Petco/Petsmart, and live brine shrimp at your LFS.
Will add on later! Happy cycling and keep us posted!
I'll just link the post I made in your other thread.
Get rid of the
red-tailed sharkrainbow shark, it gets too big for your 10 gallon, and it might kill your other fish when it gets bigger. Otherwise, your tank is fine after those deaths, and you could probably add another neon tetra and ~3 pygmy corydoras if you can find them IF you upgrade your filter.If I were you, I would replace that filter since it takes up so much space in your tank. Get an AquaClear 20, it will last you forever, and you'll never need to replace the media. Rinse off the biomax in some tank water (water you're removing during a water change OR dechlorinated tap water) and do the same with the including sponge every few weeks.
They're $24.55 on Amazon right now, and you will never need to replace the media. Keep the old filter running for a few days besides the old filter until the new filter has some bacteria growth, and remove the old one.
You do water changes right? In your other thread you said your nitrates were high. When was the last time you did a water change?
edit: Looked at the picture, that is indeed a rainbow shark, still not a good fit for the tank.
Best advice is to take your time and buy what will make you happy. You'll only spend more money in the long run if you compromise now. Luckily, not everything needs bought at once. Tank, filter, and heater are necessary purchases now. Lighting and decor can be figured out more slowly.
I can recommend what I'd get in your position.
If you're going to buy a kit, this is a good one. Personally, I like this heater, but they do sell a cheaper version. So, about $100 for the tank, heater, filter, and light.
If you want to buy the parts separately, you can get a 10 gallon tank for $10-$15 or cheaper checking craigslist. You'll also need some kind of lid to cover the tank. You can buy glass ones or some people get a piece of glass or acrylic cut to cover it. Tank + lid: $25-$30
Aquaclears are my favorite filters for my tanks, but you could use a sponge filter. You'd need an air pump for the sponge one. So, $20-$25 for a filter.
Real plants are nice, but not necessary. You can do fine with fake ones, just make sure the edges aren't sharp. If you do want plants, the Spec V light should be plenty for low light plants. If you want to buy the light separately, this or this would be fine. I've had a Nicrew one on my larger tank before and it's enough for low light plants.
Or you could just get a clamp on lamp from the store and a daylight bulb. That whole set up would be about $10.
Until you get a new set up, I would recommend water changes at least once a day, if not more. I would also strongly recommend buying a water testing kit.
This is the one i use. I like it because I can alter the flow. Just make sure to cover the intake. I just wrapped some filter floss around it with some thread. Although, they do make specialized covers for it.
If it was me, I'd start by doing this:
I hope this helps! I know it can get a little pricey but it's more than worth it to ensure Flameo's healthy and happy.
something like this:
pump
sponge
air tube
Bubbles are great for both playing and helping a little bit with oxygenation in your tank (but not a whole lot). My oranda loves to play in them. You really can't go wrong by adding one I don't think, unless you find down the line your fish likes to eat bubbles.
I use Tetra Whispers. I have a 10g one and the 40g one - what you're seeing in the pictures is the 40g on a split air line, full blast. They're not that noisy - not that much if at all noiser than the filter you use at least. I have one on a non-slip pad and the other on a hand towel and they're quiet. The air stone is just a generic one I got offline, it's circular.
I use this one in my 2.5g. Works well, small size, sucks up no shrimplets.
Any 2-5 gal AIO, where to top could be removed, would work, only you might need to upgrade light and flow, and make custom filtration media.
Reflex 15 and alike have too narrow back chambers, difficult to clean, not much space for custom media, no space for heater, and light holder can't be removed.
They usually cost around $100 or more, heater is not included, and many things should be replaced.
Low cost are glass bowls, if you can find them, how final result looks like see in the links here.
Hardware is limited to air pump, air tubing, heater and lid. If need less noise, smallest water pump. Tom internal filter for me, with rain bar and filter media cage removed, 45 gph.
Maintenance tools to hose, container and NanoMag (or DIY).
I know Indian Almond Leaves and weekly water changes is the cure. But I don’t know where he cut himself. I’m thinking maybe it’s the new filter I just put in there (Koller Products TOM Aquarium Internal Power Filter (45 GPH Flow Rate) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00176GKM8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_I8jKDb4E065GH). I just don’t know HOW he could cut himself on it. 🤔
The only other things I have in the tank are: driftwood (with no sharp edges), hairgrass (spikerush) and Amazon Compacta’s.
I guess I should try sponge filters again... But the one I had before didn’t really clean the tank and they make others, but they’re huge. Or too loud. My tank is 5 gallons, 9.6 in L x 9.8 in W x 15.3 in H and it’s just Semper with an otto.
Any recommendations on small sponge filters that clean well and quiet pumps?
As for Stocking:
-----------------
Edit: The title says "new", but this has been running for about 2 months since I put the driftwood in and started adding crushed food for cycling. I've been tweaking it over those 2 months. I added the plants in about a month ago, and upgraded the light to a CFL from a halogen about 2 weeks ago. The plants have all rooted and are now growing rapidly (rapidly for low light, low tech anyway). The snail population grew from an un-seen egg cluster to about 15 adult snails, and has stabilized around there. I don't feed very much, just a tiny pinch of new-life spectrum small fish pellets that I've crushed up into a powder every couple of days.
You're probably not going to find real quantifiable data like that because there are so many factors including growth media and I'm not sure it scales up and down linearly.
I have:
Imgur (left side)
Imgur (middle)
imgur
These are all stable systems that have lasted about two years a piece
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Issues of any cruelty aside- this is fine as a starter/intro and you'll find that you'll likely want to upgrade as things work out- mostly because small systems are a lot harder to take care of.
The thing with goldfish is that they put out a lot of ammonia (so in a small tank ammonia poisoning might be a thing) and the size of the container tends to cap their growth. But I wouldn't sweat the fish thing too much because a few of them might die due to the tank being new (although goldfish are extremely hearty) sketchy source: http://www.firsttankguide.net/newtanksyndrome.php
It's hard to tell you straight away about how many fish etc because this aquarium system looks fresh and not yet cycled- ie. your aquarium probably doesn't have it's fill of microscopic plant life living in it and in the growth bed material you are using. Be aware you'll likely need to treat the new water you add into the tank. (chlorine remover etc) and that adding new water will have a relatively large effect on your tank due to it being compact. sketchy source: http://nippyfish.net/2009/05/27/cycling-a-small-aquarium/
This means that you'll need to watch the amount of food you feed your fish carefully.
100 grams of fish food will generally support about one square meter of plant life.
sketchy source: http://www.doityourself.com/stry/aquaponics-knowing-the-fish-to-plant-ratio
The great thing about what you are doing (cycling, establishing your grow bed as a bio filter) is that if you start a new tank, you'll be able to use this water and material to start out a larger tank faster (largely what you did by getting some of their gravel).
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Nice tips/ways to scale up or automate things to make your life easier:
ie. http://www.amazon.com/Automatic-Fish-Feeder-AquaChef-Batteries/dp/B004249KFG
or
Note: most of these links are sketchy- just conveying ideas in an easy to read/digestible format.
> http://imgur.com/gQ9Fory
Thank you sooo much! Please let me know. I am actually quite new to aquariums. The tank has been cycled for new fish. The fake plans are approved for betta, I even did the "pantyhose" test with the plants and logs. As for algae, I don't think it is, It's a live plant, and I'll go see. I usually have the light on for at least an hour. As for the bamboo....I am sad it has to go... The filter is located behind the tank, you can see a bit of it over the left side, it's black and it's this filter.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00176GKM8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Please. Educate me. By the way, anything on custom made decors? Perhaps a sealant for toys? I know some paint on toys are super dangerous so I haven't added any.
I got this jar from Amazon. They have larger 2 gallon jars if you're willing to pay $10 more.
As for the filter/heater, I had this small filter and heater. You can attach them to the side of the jar.
However, you don't really need any of those if you're just putting few shrimps and snails. If you pack it with java moss, it should sustain by itself.
First, I would remove the male, leaving only the gravid female. Assuming the eggs are fertile, you'll slowly see them develop over the next few weeks until you can begin to see little crayfish inside each one. I don't think you need to swap out your filter; I prefer covering the intake with a sponge pre-filter (e.g.). I say this because you're going to want to keep your tank clean while minimizing water changes which could lead to you sucking up tiny crayfish.
Once you get to the point where eye spots develop in the eggs (two little black dots), you'll know the eggs are close to hatching. Monitor them closely as you'll want to remove the female shortly after the babies hatch and begin to move around freely. If you don't remove the female, she'll eventually eat the babies.
Once the babies are on their own, it's pretty easy. I feed them like I do adult crayfish, except that I grind the food up a little bit. For example, ground up algae wafers are always welcome. Make sure you provide plenty of hiding places for them to seek shelter when they molt, which they will do very frequently at first.
Good luck and keep us posted!
I'm not 100% sure this will fit, but I've used the fluval edge pre filter sponge on the an Aqueon Quietflow filter for my 10 gallon.
So you have a filter on a 6 gallon tank that's rated for 68 gallons per hour. This is great filtration (I use an eheim that's rates for over 120 gallons that's running on a 5.5 gallon tank here temporarily). However I myself found that i HAD to control the filter flow.
If you live near a PETCO they may have the Fluval sponges on clearance for 70.cents if not less. don't pay more than 2 bucks for one. I found out my Local petco had a a whole bunch of them on clearance for 70 cents so i picked up close to 30. lol
These sponges look nice, and work well. What you do is fit it over the outflow of the filter. if you get a couple you can cut them to your needs and even use one as an internal filter sponge if your filters design will permit it.
Bettas are used to being in still water. you want the water to have a very very gentle flow, it will look almost still. There's a good chance hes fighting the current and cant get up to the top to breathe regularly.
You mentioned your Nitrates at around a 5? i would prep some water (chlorinate it, maybe let it sit over night) and do a 50% water change, do this about twice a week until your filter is balanced and your tank is fully cycled. if you are seeing high nitrate levels you might be on the tail end of that cycle which is good.
As for clamped fins. Once the previous measures have been taken and your beta appears to be regaining health and vigor (give him a week or so) You can do "betta exercise" which is essentially putting a mirror in front of the tank for about 5-10 minutes once or twice a week. don't do it consecutively, so maybe Monday and Friday or something like that. This causes them to flare their fins and fan them out. preventing clamping and helping their muscles that they use for the fins get some strength. Just be sure to watch him and take it away after the 5-10 minute period. if he is in bad shape right now i would just do 5 minutes for a while and see how that works out.
That's about all i can give right now based on the info provided. Make sure the tank is not near a heavy sun window or an air vent.
Hang in there man and good luck. I know what its like to lose pets. Its a major let down and you feel like you failed. I've been there and im sure ill be there again at some point. I lost alot of dwarf shrimp in my early experiences, it will pay off once you figure out the nuances.
Best of luck and feel free to PM me if you need more help.
Fluval Edge PreFilter Sponge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LL32RY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RzHvDbTQG9SRH
He's lovely! His colors are so vibrant. Just a word of warning, you might wanna pick up a prefilter sponge to stick over your filter intake like these.
Bettas are curious little guys and are notorious for tearing their fins on that kind of stuff. Just figured I'd let you know, he's a gorgeous fish!
The tank looks like a fluval spec, right? Get yourself one of these, cut it to size, and stick it over the filter outflow nozzle. It will keep the flow gentle while still allowing your filter to work. You do need the filter on.
I would also suggest increasing the temp. He will get stressed out at lower temperatures, which will lower his immune system. You can also stick an indian almond leaf in there, which releases tannins that are beneficial to healing.
I'm having good luck so far with DYI using yeast and jello for my 10gal. But If you're looking for something a little bigger you could start with this kit. It has an adapter to mini CO2 cartridges that you can buy at in a number of places--like at Dicks Sporting Goods with airsoft and paintball equipment, or at kitchen appliance stores with seltzer makers.
If you want bigger than that try to find somewhere nearby that sells beer brewing kits, as they'll have a range of tank sizes for home-brewed kegs, as well as regulator valves for them.
*just saw your comment about the Fluval minis, so just disregard that.
Overnight CO2 bag.
Aphids breath oxygen (O2) and with suffocate in carbon-dioxide (CO2). Plants however, are the opposite and will not be harmed.
This has never failed for me with other plants.
I may have the fluval version sitting around. If you would pay shipping I don't mind sending it.
Fluval Mini Pressurized 20g-CO2 Kit - 0.7 ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049RL3H4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Qu8RBbVNPRQVD
Before buying a whole new filter setup itself, try one of the sponge covers for a filter intake (I'll add a link in an edit in a second) they're just a couple dollars and they'll help a lot! My guy used to get stuck by the intake force alone. But he doesn't even get drawn to the thing now. I have them on all my filters!
Edit: you can probably find them cheaper but here's what I'm talking about! just put a rubber band right around it to keep it in place.
Petco currently has a $1 per gallon sale up to 29 gallons, I believe. If you wanted a bigger aquarium now'd be a good time to get a bigger aquarium. Your choice of fish is very limited with a 5 gallon. You can either get a betta or some shrimps.
Take your time and do research. No need to rush. It's always better to do your research and go to a pet store knowing what you want rather than impulsively buying anything. Most pet store staff also generally don't know much more than the average person about fish so take anything they say with a grain of salt.
EDIT: You need an airpump, not an air stone for the sponge filter! That's a really big mistake I made.
These are what I ordered for my 20 gallon aquarium, the size of the air pump is what matters so get a 10 gallon air pump for your 5 gallon aquarium unless you decide to upgrade. I'm also on a budget so these seem to be the best items for those on a budget
Sponge filter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0051XIN78/ref=psdcmw_2975472011_t2_B005VAFGKI
Air pump:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009YJ4N6/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I35X82DPLWBEQ2&amp;colid=74EPT83Y85GU&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1
Air tubing:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002563MW/ref=pd_aw_fbt_199_img_2?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=C7MX7DQQ39GFPW8XDMM3
I bought a 8 gal long from a local store last week, it cost me 30 bucks, 5 gal long was 25. I'm (Canadian) in Korea atm. That being said, you can get a 5 gal for 20~30 bucks shipped to you. Petsmart has a 10gal for 15 bucks That being said, mine came with a lid, I don't know if yours will, but you can make a cheap wire mesh/plexi lid for ~5 bucks at home depot, I'm not a fan of glass lids since I'm a clutz.
Heaters will also run you about 20~30 dollars for a good one, but you can get them cheap for about 10 bucks or so. Adjustable ones are great because they shut off if it gets too hot in the summer.
Lights: don't think too much on it. You don't have to get one that fits perfectly, and you don't need a professional aquarium lamp from the get go. You can pick a reptile lamp for under 10 bucks if you get them on sale. Unless you're going for a planted tank you don't need to spend 60+ bucks on lights and you don't need Co2. Hell, a desk lamp suffices.
Filter: bettas love slow water, I'd get a sponge filter like drysider said. pump is about 10 bucks, filter is 10~30 bucks depending on brand. air pump example Sponge filter example
You could try this pump out, looks great!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00511P8CS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=A39G1UAOFK1OOE&amp;psc=1
Be sure to also pick up the air pump;
https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Whisper-Easy-Aquariums-Non-UL/dp/B0009YJ4N6/ref=pd_bxgy_199_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B0009YJ4N6&amp;pd_rd_r=QYZDEBFVK4HDGMKK5HE2&amp;pd_rd_w=wYWS0&amp;pd_rd_wg=hoOdK&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=QYZDEBFVK4HDGMKK5HE2&amp;dpID=51PhS3RJRSL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=detail
and tubing
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L4BV1E2/ref=twister_B01L4BV1VK?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
They are weak but here they are.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0009YJ4N6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Lots of great comments here, I'm just going to add my experience. I dunno if they're the best practices, but it works for me for now.
I mix 5 gal at a time and that lasts about a week, maybe 10 days depending on how much runoff and when in the grow it is. I just add more water when it's low or empty and only wash it at the end of the grow, and it hasn't been bad at all (2 grows finished like this). I have a black reservoir with a 4" airstone disc and this quiet pump. I water 2x per day with a little runoff to waste after the 4th or 5th nodes come in. Sometimes it'll go a few days with no runoff if I get careless though. In the reservoir there are some bubbles or foam on top, but its over the airstone and doesn't get more than about 2" thick.
I use gen hydro flora series, armor si, gen hydro cal mag, liquid kool bloom (relatively new for me), epsom salt sometimes, recharge, and mammoth P (been out for a few weeks though). I pH the water to 5.2-5.9 and over a few days it will rise to around 6.0-6.8 or maybe up to 7 a couple times. Before I was using recharge I saw a similar rise, maybe not quite as much but I don't remember exactly. With recharge, once pH rises over time it takes a lot of pH down to lower it, much more than a fresh batch pre recharge, so I don't like to try to lower it after the fact. I wonder what reactions are happening to use up the acid and how that's affecting the nutrient availability. I may be way overthinking things though, haha
With the recharge even when the water was up to 7 the plants haven't looked bad, I was really surprised the first time I found it that high. I think the recharge helps increase the acceptable pH range, partly because it is causing the change. I could be wrong though, just guessing, and it may do less than I think. I dunno if it's good to keep recharge bubbling that long, I emailed the company but they didn't respond. I've had great results and it's really easy, so I'm gonna keep going!
You're looking at my basic setup as is, but here's my whole setup, as I said in another thread
>I use a Tetra Whisper 10-Gallon air pump, with one check valve to prevent back flow, going into a 4-way gang valve, hooked up to three mini cyclinder sponge filters. The 4th output on the gang valve is closed.
I have 3 large bowls, so you obviously wouldn't need a 4 way gang valve, but it wouldn't hurt you. Just keep 3 closed and use the 4th to adjust the amount of air you want coming through. You could also run 2 smaller filters in opposite corners if you want. I'm probably going to run smaller filters down the road, because the one's I bought are quite large, and look giant because they're magnified by the shape of my bowls. The one you linked to is a little smaller than mine, so I wish I'd purchased those. Haha.
As far as algae, it's not a problem I've ever had. I've only been running filters for less than 2 months though, so I wouldn't attribute my lack of algae to my filter setup.
whats the difference between this two tetra pumps?
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000GZ1EX6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0009YJ4N6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&amp;psc=1
and to clean the sponge filter?
This is a pretty nice small internal filter. Unless you want to go with a hob style oooor maybe you are into the sponge filter world
I looking at this, that, and the other one, but honestly if I swing by Petco tomorrow and they have a nice rimless I might just pick that up. I already have a filter and heater on the way because I just measured the water temp and it's 70! Just make it to Tuesday, little fella.
OP, I'd avoid the Marineland because it has a built in filter. I'd get the Tetra and a nano filter like this one.
I have that filter on my 2 gallon tank, and it's pretty spiffy. I just keep a few cherry shrimp in my little tank.
5 gallons would be enough for a single betta, dario dario, badis badis, or similar solitary fish. A couple of guppies would be fine, but DO NOT mix male and females unless you enjoy being overrun with fry. There are 'micro' fish, too, that you could stock three or four of, but I'm not familiar with any of them.
Second that this filter just isn't worth it. I couldn't stand the thing!
I absolutely love this filter, I've had three of them. It is an internal filter for small tanks that doesn't require an air pump. It's super quiet and because of the arm attachment it produces very little current especially if you aim it at the wall. Would very highly recommend it.
I have a Tom's Mini Internal in both of my betta tanks. They are sponge filters, but I cut out like 1.5cm of the bottom so I could jam a couple ceramic rings in there too. Works like a charm, just need to keep an eye on it for cleaning because it is so small. I just point the small spray bar at the tank wall and thumbs up! You can completely submerge it if it's only a betta in the tank.
Is this the one?
I used it for maybe 7 months to keep one small male in. For the most part I liked it. The LED light worked fine, but I only had one anubias plant growing in there. With a betta there is no use for the bubble thing that comes with it (though I do use it on a larger tank to move still surface water). The filter that comes with it is a joke, so I used this filter. I preferred the spray bar attachment that comes with the filer, though you do have to angle it very precisely to get it work with the lid on. I'm sure you could use the waterfall attachment more easily if you baffled it. I did go through three heaters while using this tank, but that isn't the tanks fault.
My biggest complaint was how quickly the water evaporated, but that is to be expected with such a small tank. I did 1 gallon (approximately) water change every 3-4 days and added water to the tank daily to make up for evaporation. To make water changes easy I used a half gallon pitcher and the cup my betta came in to scoop water from the tank.
I live in a small condo with my boyfriend and understand what you mean about space. That 3 gallon tank got moved all over the place, it literally spent time every room that wasn't the bathroom. It is easy to move if need be and can be stashed in some really creative places. I've actually dropped it (empty) a few times and it has held up surprisingly well with no damage.
All that being said, I wouldn't buy it again. I use it now as a hospital tank. Unfortunately, I don't have any experience with the fluval chi for comparison. But if give the choice between the two I would go with a five gallon.
I wrote all this on my phone, I hope I've not made too many mistakes.
TOM Aquarium Mini Internal Filter 45gph adjustable flow is the one I use in my 2.5 gallon. Keeps the water clear and not too much for the betta. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00176GKM8/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_mSLEub1DK6ZFR
Also, just a note that filter is currently on recall by PetSmart. You can return the filter to a PetSmart and get ~$16 back no questions, and then buy yourself a better filter elsewhere if you want: http://phx.corporate-ir.net/phoenix.zhtml?c=196265&amp;p=factset72
I've had my eye on this filter: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00176GKM8/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=206IQ9CF332Y&amp;coliid=I34IFQSAA7VMHS
In reference to this comment, I recommend the TOM mini filter. For $16 it has 45GPH filtration and an extension for the water current to be broken up so it doesn't stress the betta. You can also take the carbon it comes with and fill it with another biological media if you'd wish. There's no refill cartridges, so you can control all the elements with whatever filtration you prefer
I haven't used this specific tank for shrimps, but I do have one for bettas AND have other shrimp tanks. If you're super serious and have about $70 to spend, it can be converted into the easiest shrimp tank ever!
Ditch the cover; the best setup for shrimp involves live plants, and the lighting under there unfortunately won't support it. For that size tank, a Finnex Ultra Slim would be ideal. It'll grow literally any aquatic plant you could possibly buy like weeds. For filtration I'd recommend a Tom mini; it's gentle, can't suck up any babies, and dead quiet.
I know it seems pricey at first but as a hobbyist you probably already know that the setup cost is always the most important. It'll be almost foolproof, trust me. I can PM you examples of my tanks if you want.
Links:
http://www.amazon.com/Aquarium-Internal-Filter-45gph-adjustable/dp/B00176GKM8/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1383202386&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=tom+mini+filter
http://www.amazon.com/Finnex-Fugeray-R-Ultra-Aquarium-Fixture/dp/B00BP6QGIS/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1383202399&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=finnex+fugeray
TOM mini 45gph
It was a little strong at first but after 1 month i think the bacteria inside the filter and the plants kind of help to slow down the flow
I have this filter in a small shrimp tank (some have said it works great w/o the filter as a small powerhead) and this sponge filter in another shrimp tank.
If you are talking about the Biomax rings they are not meant to collect waste. They are a highly porous and tortuous material with a huge effective surface area for beneficial bacteria to grow on. That's the bacteria that will break down ammonia and nitrites. This is called biological filtration. Water has to flow through it for it to be effective.
Sponge and fibre will physically block debris but will not provide the same amount of surface area for bacteria to attach to. This is mechanical filtration.
Activated carbon is charged and adsorbs microscopic debris and other charge specific molecules until it is saturated at which point it will have to be discarded. Not very effective. This is called chemical filtration.
I personally stock my filters with bio-media only and attach a pre-filter sponge like this to the intake for mechanical filtration.
Your best bet would to be use something like this sponge filter as it not only will prevent inadvertent fish chumming, but will also act as a second media for beneficial bacteria to grow.
If that is either too much of an eyesore or it inhibits your flow too much, use a mesh screen like this to prevent Khuli sushi.
Also, sorry for your loss, Khulis are sweeties! Try Zebra Botia (Loaches) as well, they're great for small tanks and click extremely loudly when excited!
i have anacharis in mine. fyi, you may also want to baffle the filter's output. it depends on the bettas fins though. my flow was pretty low but Felix kept swimming in it and got a little split in his tail. so i got a sponge like this i cut the excess off (so it doesn't stick out so much) and rubber banded it to the outflow.
You should be fine removing the Whisper. Another suggestion would be to put a foam prefilter over the intake. I believe this one will fit: http://www.amazon.com/Hagen-A1387-Fluval-Pre-Filter-Sponge/dp/B002LL32RY
Buy a small filter sponge. These ones are easy to mod. In some areas they've been repackaged with the Fluval branding. You should be able to get them or something similar at any LFS. Cut a small hole and secure it over the filter out take, or get one that already comes that way. Should help reduce flow and maybe give him some respite. It will also provide a little bio filtration.
Definitely should check parameters too. His scales and eye look pretty unhappy. It's hard to tell but he may be harboring a bacterial infection. If you test high in nutrients that could corroborate that hypothesis. Water changes never hurt. 10% every day will only help secure ideal conditions, and isn't that demanding in a 5g. Might even want to do a little aquarium salt to help boost gills and slime coat.
And I would get those plastic plants out of there. Bettas like to lounge on stuff, and if hes trying to lounge on those and the flow is knocking him around, that could be part of the problem. Silk or live plants will be much more gentle.
I got mine at Petsmart. If it's the same one I got (and it looks like it is) it's this.
I believe this sponge would fit perfectly over the outflow -
Fluval EDGE Pre-Filter Sponge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LL32RY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RCXJDbQ0RYS2X
I use it in two of my tanks with outlets like this and it works perfectly to diffuse the flow!
Its available at most petco/petsmarts too
I just bought one at my LFS yesterday, (this is the one I got, you could probably go generic and be fine. I'm sure you could go to almost any store that sells and find some.
Fluval EDGE Pre-Filter Sponge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LL32RY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gaKPybNKN3XM0
Or in bulk
Generic Pre-Filter Sponge / Foam Set For Fluval Edge Aquarium (Pack Of 12) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J5Z44OE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_AaKPyb5NGTFHQ
Stick one of these bad boys over the output nozzle.
Sorry, that's just a huge pet peeve of mine because it is a strategy typically used by big box stores like Petco and Petsmart to intentionally evade local invasive species laws. (E.g. the Petco where I live sells Procambarus alleni as "blue lobsters" because they are trying to get around the fact that the entire family Cambaridae is illegal to own in Washington state… something I found out AFTER I got my as-it-turns-out-illegal-to-own crayfish.) Lobsters are the family Nephropidae, which are only marine.
I think you should buy at least a 10 gallon (20 gallon long is MUCH better) + an Aquaclear 20 or 30 (depending on what size tank you get) + a pre filter sponge like this: http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A1387-EDGE-Pre-Filter-Sponge/dp/B002LL32RY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1413430808&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=prefilter+sponge
That's what I do on my RCS tank and my baby RCS are much smaller than your crayfish and they have no problems, plus that filtration is adequate.
I know it seems big given your cray's current size, but as an adult they will get much bigger. My bud was 10 inches (counting claws) when he died.
And then, again, the API Freshwater Master Test kit… and please do look up information about the nitrogen cycle! /r/aquariums has good info in their sidebar.
that would work, but this is probably better: https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A1387-EDGE-Pre-Filter-Sponge/dp/B002LL32RY
It's what I use.
https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A1387-EDGE-Pre-Filter-Sponge/dp/B002LL32RY
I use this kind of thing. This particular sponge I know fits the filters built in to MiniBow 5 tanks, the Tetra Whisper 3i and the Aquaclear 20
you can buy prefilter sponges for 5 bucks on amazon. they're round and black so they don't stick out as much as nylon socks. theyre cheaper if you buy them in bulk
I agree that you should also give back the neons. Too small of a tank. Look into getting a snail or shrimp to go with your Betta instead.
I have (this)[http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A1387-EDGE-Pre-Filter-Sponge/dp/B002LL32RY] over where the water comes out on a tank similar to yours. If you can get it to stay on the outflow, the water will be diffused calmly with no current into the tank without having to turn off the pump.
Good luck.
Over filtering is better than under. You'll need to baffle the flow, especially for a betta. A sponge cap on the outflow works well and diy fixes can be easily found online.
A lot of us use the fluval pre filter sponge Just stick it on the end of the outflow, tying it on if necessary.
buy this
I bought one of these and it worked really well.
http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A1387-EDGE-Pre-Filter-Sponge/dp/B002LL32RY
This one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002LL32RY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Personally I'd probably use something like this https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Mini-Pressurized-20g-CO2-Kit/dp/B0049RL3H4/ref=pd_sim_328_5?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=3T1NNC29PZG80HSTHAYK
A passive co2 kit could be used. It slowly dissolves into the water. Water movement is needed under the container to ensure that its spreading. Fill the container and leave it alone until it needs to be refilled again. It does take up some tank space since it's attached inside the aquarium.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049RL3H4/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_zl6YCbGAXZPN3
No that's not going to work - the CO2 in the water is going to bubble up and out of your tank in a hurry, much faster than any benefit you'd possibly get from it. This is a relatively inexpensive system that I've had on my 20 gal tank for the better part of a year and it has given me great results. Most people will tell you not to waste your money on these little co2 cartridges, but I've found it a pretty cost effective way to run co2 on a small tank. The little cartridges last a surprisingly long time.
I don't have it yet, but I'm planning on using this. Someone in the review section suggested buying these instead of the refills Fluval sells. Even though there aren't a ton of positive reviews I trust Fluval enough as a brand to feel comfortable buying the kit.
I should add that I'm upgrading my lighting before I get the CO2 system as I feel it'll help my plants more than CO2 will right now.
C02 Kit
Bubble Counter
Diffuser
You also need funnels to get everything into the soda bottles, a few check valves to prevent backflow. The reaction uses baking soda and citric acid, I got both from the market so thy are food grade.
What size tank is that? In my experience you have to seriously overdose iron to keep even a reddish color, I use seachem iron added to the minor elements while estimative index dosing. With that light if your tank is less =&amp;amp;lt; 18" tall, you will need some carbon added. You may be able to get away will excel for a bit but long term going with an "estimative index" fert and co2 injection will be cheaper and easier.
Also, swords are heavy root feeders so you definitely need to get some root tabs for them the grow and flourish.
This is my current co2 setup that's easy to put together and only cost a few dollars every few months to fill for my 29g:
Empire Paintball 24oz CO2 Tank - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007XKFQCM
AQUATEK CO2 Regulator Mini - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008TJCPSY
Fluval Ceramic 88g-CO2 Diffuser - 3.1 Ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GCO35G (Note you can choose a different diffuser if you want)
AQUATEK CO2-Proof Tubing 16 Feet - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008UCOFJW
Fluval CO2 Indicator Kit - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0052M9886
From what I have heard running your CO2 line directly into a HOB filter will cause cavitation of the impeller and eventually break the filter. I have no clue how long it takes to break a filter this way. For my CO2 setup I am using a ceramic diffuser this one under the intake to my filter. I have not had a filter die on me yet or give any indication of failing but I really haven't had it running that long.
I use disposable pressurized co2 canisters right now with one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Nano-CO2-Diffuser-Reactor-Aquarium/dp/B0058XWDFO/
this is what you're using, right?
http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Ceramic-88g-CO2-Diffuser-Ounces/dp/B004GCO35G
& I already have the fluval bubble counter!
We have a lot of folks on here using the aquatek regulators and they are ok. Those come with a solenoid, so like krattalak stated, you only have tubing(which is cheap on amazon), drop checker, and ceramic diffuser(also pretty cheap). I highly recommend a check valve and use a brass fitting instead of the cheap ceramic ones that tend to warp and compress.
How high do you have the pressure up to?? The only time mine ever did that is when I got impatient and turned the pressure up a bit too high. I'm not an expert, but it might be time to invest in a regulator.
I use this diffuser with this regulator in both my tanks (a 55g and a 75g). I use the included bubble counter for my 75g and it works great. I've bought way more expensive diffusers and none worked as good as the one I referenced here so don't be tempted to spend more than you need to. I really do suggest a regulator, though. I think you might be having pressure issues.
ive never had a problem with neons getting sucked in the filter, but if youre worried you could put a sponge over it like this.
I have one in my tank for when random cory babies survive. it also helps big chunks of debris like broken plants from being sucked into the filter and clogging it!
Not sure what type of filter you have but maybe try a sponge filter? It helps prevent the babies from being sucked up: http://www.amazon.com/Pre-Filter-Sponge-Pack-Fluval-Aquarium/dp/B004K9A15G
Most local fish stores will have pre-cut intake sponges that will fit any standard HOB filter. Like an aquaclear 20 or whatever. I actually bought filter sponge from my local store, cut it into a strip about 4 inches long, folded it in half and sewed the edges (leaving the opposite end of the fold un-sewn). Simply slide onto the intake.
or buy something like this
I have the same one! My dude also hates it. I got it in a Aqueon basic 10 kit.
I made a baffle out of a plastic bottle and put it over the outflow. It made the flow not fully reach the front of the tank, but it didn't seem like enough to really slow it down.
After that, I also bought one of these fluval sponge things and put it on the outside of the intake tube. I also put this aquarium filter fiber on the inside of the intake tube and inside where the filter cartridge is. If you put too much stuff in the intake tube, the filter will be really loud and suck up some of the fiber. I had to really pack it in. The intake flow is SO STRONG that it will suck up gravel (I had the genius idea of putting gravel on top of the fiber to stop the fiber from getting sucked up- did not work)
After all this, the filter is weaker and slower, but still pretty strong. I wish I would have just bought something else in the first place, but its so far working out. I'm just sad that every bubble nest my little dude tries to make is being instantly destroyed. He's still trying though!
Sorry! [Here is an example] (http://www.amazon.com/Pre-Filter-Sponge-Pack-Fluval-Aquarium/dp/B004K9A15G) but I picked up some cheap one at the pet store that didn't really fit and just used some sewing thread to tighten it up so it would fit my filter properly. I think it was $3 for a 2 pack maybe?
You would clean it like your normal bio filter--when you're doing a water change, rinse it out in the discarded tank water bucket to get rid of excess gunk. Don't rinse it in tap water or wash it or else you'll kill your beneficial bacteria.
I have some dwarf lettuce floating plants in my 5 gallon and they just sway gently but aren't pushed all over the place. The only downside to this is that you may get a biofilm on the surface of your water which is harmless but kind of gross looking (oil slick). You can add a little air stone if you like--that should be enough to agitate the top of the water and not bother your fish.
If you need a quick-quick fix, just get some filter floss and rubber band it securely around the intake--that works in the same way but I hate having rubber bands in the tank so I see it as a temporary fix. Hope this helps!
There is really no impact. In fact is catches a lot of the debris. You just have to rinse it out once in a while.
http://www.amazon.com/Pre-Filter-Sponge-Pack-Fluval-Aquarium/dp/B004K9A15G
You really don't need carbon cartridges unless removing medicines from the water, as the other commenter mentioned. Carbon Cartridges need replacing monthly because the carbon inside is spent after that amount of time, and if left in it would start to leech out nasties back into the water. It's really a money-grab tactic by the pet store to get you to keep buying more carbon cartridges (plus you throw your whole nitrogen cycle away every time you change to a new cartridge).
You could cut out the filter floss (the cottony sheet part) from the old spent cartridge and stick them in along with the following materials to do this mod for a HoB filter:
Visual example: https://i.imgur.com/QYNiVEV.mp4
With these materials (long lasting, don't need monthly replacement, just replace when completely falling apart):
But I personally REALLY HIGHLY recommend sponge filters, they are VERY gentle on bettas, while often HoB filters produce a bit too strong of an outflow current... If you want to consider a sponge filter, here's my favorite sponge filter setup which I use in my own 5.5g tanks (they're rated for up to 20g and are nice compact sponge filters, so do not take away much space from your tank).
https://www.amazon.com/Powkoo-Double-Biochemical-Aquarium-Gallons/dp/B01M3VALFU/ My bettas (and I) LOVE LOVE LOVE THIS!!!
AND from Petsmart - I HIGHLY recommend the TopFin Quartz BioBalls ceramic filter media, the rounded pearl shape makes them fit a lot more into a small space such as the dual-media chambers in the sponge filter I highly recommended above. It looks like this in store: https://i.imgur.com/Xz50k5F.jpg (I think it's not yet listed on their website because the stuff is still a new release).
https://www.amazon.com/U-picks-Aquarium-Gallon-Quietest-Accessories/dp/B07RRNDMXJ/ Nice air pump with all accessories to set it up - quiet mini air pump, check valve, and airline tubing.
See it all in action: https://i.imgur.com/KAyjMaj.mp4 (not my tank but my friends when she was fishless cycling hers, and the sponge filter is nicely visible. Mine is hidden behind bunch of silk plants :< lol)
Definitely. Which means good water parameters. They're highly sensitive to ammonia so be on top of testing your water and water changes.
I also learned the hard way that my filter allows little frog legs and bodies to be sucked in. For example, if you have the standard HOB filter, the tube may cause problems so cover it with prefilters.
Pre-Filter Sponge 3 Pack for... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004K9A15G?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share. I used this with my hob filter for the past 5 years with no problems.
I bought the pre filters off Amazon, they come in a 3 pack. I was going to offer to mail you a spare but judging by your comment history it looks like you're in Australia? I'm in the states and will only mail to US address...they're cheap though!
Put foam over the intake, aka http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004K9A15G/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Or a very fine mesh pantyhose etc..
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004K9A15G/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8
You can probably find them pretty easily. I ordered this pack on amazon which comes with three since I had more than one tank, but I'm sure anything similar to that will work fine. It's just basically a little cylinder shapes sponge sleeve that you stick over the end that sucks up the water.
Just went through my box of fish goods. Probably the best things (which I coincidentally got off Amazon) are random airline accessories. One-way valves, random connectors, suction cups, and a pack of check valves have all proven useful. It's great having extra pieces for whenever you need one. I built a drip acclimation line that I saw for sale somewhere with these parts, I have two DIY sponge + K1 filters that I needed one-way valves for to regulate the airflow, etc. Just so many uses :)
Some other good purchases:
Seachem Purigen
Bubble Counter - for DIY CO2 or DIY in-tank brine shrimp hatchery
Yeast - for DIY CO2
Metal Faucet Adapter - for gravel vacuum that attaches to your sink
Pre-filter Sponge Pack
Well, at a certain size people start recommending a sump/refugium. A sump of 20 gallons is a so much more capacity for filtration than a HOB could ever be. But they are more difficult to setup.
If I were going to use a HOB for a tank that large, I might just use two of these
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000260FUW/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_m8Ovxb3MWMDGV
"But why?" you might ask. Two reasons. First it meets the capacity requirements in excess of 40 gallons and better circulates the tank. Second it provides redundancy in case one filter goes down. Another filter you might look at is sponge filters for power outages. Can be used on a battery operated pump and simple to use
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051XIN78/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_YaPvxbRNYX7J2
You might go the route of canister filter.
This actually doesn't meet the requirements of circulating your total volume ten times in an hour, so be aware of that. A 100 gallon tank might use two of these. Again redundancy is a beautiful thing.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015JMQRNC/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_QdPvxbAH4274M
this is what i'm using in all my tanks. if that's too big, this is a good alternative.
NEVER buy this. the connection for the air tube is too big and is nearly impossible to get a tube on.
you can put a intake filter sponge on it, or you can also put a entire sponge filter like this on the intake instead. they sell adapters to do this
https://www.amazon.com/XY-380-Aquarium-Biochemical-Sponge-Filter/dp/B0051XIN78/
Would something like this work?
https://www.amazon.com/XY-380-Aquarium-Biochemical-Sponge-Filter/dp/B0051XIN78/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1522978299&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=sponge+filter+fish+tank
I use these sponge filters. For a good level of filtration, about one per 20 gallons will do the job. But if you want to over filter, 4 is a good number for a 55 gallon.
I stack the filters two to three high (into filter "towers") depending on the height of the tank, so they use up less floor space. But what's really going to make a difference is the strength behind your air pumps. If you're using two separate pumps, I'd recommend they each be rated for a 50 gallon tank for a total rating of 100 gallons. Personally, I love the Tetra Whisper100 air pumps and use one Whisper100 per 4 sponge filters (or per two filter "towers").
Use a sponge filter element, like this https://www.amazon.com/XY-380-Aquarium-Biochemical-Sponge-Filter/dp/B0051XIN78 on the filter intake, then bag up the biomedia in delicates washing bags https://www.amazon.com/DOZZZ-Delicate-Stocking-Underwear-Lingerie/dp/B016MB0KW8/ref=pd_day0_201_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B016MB0KW8&amp;pd_rd_r=K5X2TZZ1PAC07536K45J&amp;pd_rd_w=vinoL&amp;pd_rd_wg=XkJlb&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=K5X2TZZ1PAC07536K45J
May as well leave the bioplate there if it doesn't get in the way of the bio media.
Yeah we bought a heater yesterday. If we were to purchase a filter like this would we be able to just hook up our current airstone pump to it and have it work? Or would we need to purchase something different? Thanks for your help!
Might be worth mentioning sponge filters. Tetra Whisper air pumps on Amazon run about 7 bucks and the sponge filter itself will run you all of 3 bucks and you don't have to worry about replacing cartridges or anything so that's really nice and easy for beginners!
I would recommend Seachem Stability, too! Great way to help a tank get cycled faster which is a great thing when you're fish-in cycling.
I have this one in my 10g. Should be easy for you to run a splitter and have one on each side of the tank.
Do you own the established tank or are you getting it from a buddy? If it's yours, just run the old filter in the new tank for a couple of days (just make sure you don't have chlorine in the water) and then pop it back in the old tank. As other commenters have mentioned, it's valuable to always have one or more of these running so you can jump start a new tank at a moment's notice:
XY-2831 Air Pump Sponge Filter for Aquarium, Tank Size 10-gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0056XVF82/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_w25.ybB5CGHHZ
Thanks! This is the one I have: XY-2831 Air Pump Sponge Filter for Aquarium, Tank Size 10-Gallon (1-Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0056XVF82/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pBX1CbWXB0562
That’s really unfortunate:( I hope he recovers. If you’re in the market for a new filter now, I definitely recommend a sponge filter, something like this. They’re probably the lowest-risk filter types and are often used for breeding delicate fish fry. I’ve seen plenty of people get away with using normal filter gear with bettas, but horror stories like yours have convinced me it’s the safest option for my boys.
Best of luck to you and your Betta. Don’t feel too bad - it’s not your fault that crazy shit like this happens sometimes. I hope he pulls through.
i was tired yesterday and hadn't read the post fully (betta issues of my own) and had thought you meant you needed a filter that wasn't a submersible (i have a filter of sorts on my 10, along with a 20) id recomend something like http://www.amazon.com/XY-2831-Sponge-Filter-Aquarium-10-gallon/dp/B0056XVF82
i have one of those on my 10, and i just rinse out the crap every time it needs it, works wonders
you can still run the bubbler but you may need to branch the tubing to do so (tubing is normally pretty cheap)
I have this one, and a whisper 10 air pump. Standard air tubing and a check valve that I tbh haven't installed yet. My tank is ~5 gallons and the sponge filter doesn't put out too much flow for the animals--a betta would be very happy. There are corner ones that are more discreet than the stick on one. But for the stick on one debris doesn't get trapped and decay in the area around the little weight.
I would reccommend this baby to add to your filtering capabilities. All you need is an air pump and tubing to drive this and it's inexpenseive (though a bit big) for a nice filter. Currently have three of these running (two as secondary filters one as primary) and they've been handling it well. This will stir up the water as well as filter it.
To me (knida new, I keep shrimp) that sounds like a lot of fish in a 10 gallon... Also, I've heard tetras can nip at the betta. Have you experienced this?
Sponge filters are great for biological filtration! I'm cycling with a small corner sponge on my 10gal with pond snails. Unfortunately, sponge filters are crap for actually pulling old food/poop/dead plant matter. You'll have to stay on top of vacuuming the bottom of the tank during water changes. It gets very, very messy.
As for the actual sponges, see if you can find the two-sponge varieties such as this one here. That way, you can clean one sponge at a time and not worry too much about crashing your cycle. I would also recommend getting a larger pump than recommended for the size of the tank - I use a Whisper 020 (rated for 20 gallons) and it still doesn't have much pulling power, so detritus as mentioned above. But the bubbles vented from the top of the sponge filter disturb the surface quite a bit. I had to replace the mesh topper with a glass lid to keep the lights dry, or keep the water level at 75% filled. Boo.
Another thing to consider is the noise of an air pump. HOB filters hum and make waterfall-y noises, canisters are almost completely silent, and the air pumps hum and buzz no matter what you do. Some things to think about. Good luck! :)
The first link is the just a little larger than the second, They both use an air pump. And I forgot to say I use saltyshrimp gh and kh as the remineralizer. Most tap water is fine for ghost or red cherry shrimp though.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005VAFGKI/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1505891587&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=sponge%2Bfilter&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41UvHBkfssL&amp;ref=plSrch&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0056XVF82/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1505891637&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=sponge+filter&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41dqWo%2BtSBL&amp;ref=plSrch
I use a sponge filter (this one). It's super cheap, and you just hook it up to a regular air pump. Plus there's literally NO WAY that a betta can hurt himself or his fins on it (thank god), it makes little to no current, and it's a great little home for beneficial bacteria in cycling tanks.
After reading up, max size 6 the Siamese is 6"! and 2" for the Otos... Probably going to get an Oto in there after the Siamese gets bigger. Although it seems like the Siamese does a better job of cleaning up, they are super active compared to the Otos I have at home.
Does that Aqueon take up much room in your Jar? I was looking at some other filters Sponge Filter and Lee's Triple Flow. Do you have any knowledge on these ones? I'm really hesitant to take up any more space in this jar.
I have 4 bettas side by side, each in their own 5.5gal tanks Currently using this (in each tank):
https://www.amazon.com/XINYOU-XY-2835-Aquarium-Cylinder-Sponge/dp/B005LMQCW2/ref=pd_rhf_gw_p_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=642J70SPWZJKV2CTNH2X
all 4 filters are powered by this:
https://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-68286-Quiet-Flow-Pump/dp/B0157AM406/ref=sr_1_5?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487877928&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=aqueon+air+pump
The only time I notice noise is if anything is resting on it (power cords, tubing, etc) there is some vibrating. Just move it and I don't even notice the noise.
I have not been able to find sponge filters in pet stores. I have used this one
sponge filter
There are lots of different ones on amazon, just choose a seller from the u.s.
As far as cycling, at this point it will be better to do an in-fish cycle. The reason being the toxic ammonia will be more diluted in 2.5 gallons then 1 gallon. Unless you can do daily water changes on the 1 gallon.
Also look for a bottle of prime or other ammonia binder. You could try and introduce it to your grandmother as something that will help the fish, and to put it in the tank with daily feedings. If it is necessary, make something up. Like it makes him shiny or whatever. (Not that lying is good.)
XINYOU XY-2835 Fish Aquarium Mini Cylinder Soft Sponge Water Filter, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005LMQCW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dTQazbBJ4V3H7
It's working so well especially for that price!
Well when you get your larger tank, try a sponge filter. It's perfect for bettas because it produces very little current. Also oxygenates the water for you.
Don't compare your stock levels to fish store stock levels. They have to overstock to make a profit. If they used typical aquarium stocking levels it would take far too many tanks to hold all the fish they sell. Stores just over filter the tank, water change frequently, and try to sell off the fish before the overcrowding stress gets to them.
I purchased the same tank and found the filter to be difficult to work with. I would recommend a small sponge filter in the corner to filter and oxygenate the tank sufficiently. Something like this.
this is the smallest sponge filter i found on amazon
Jardin Fish Aquarium Mini Cylinder Soft Sponge Water Filter, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005LMQCW2/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_NQWXub0Y5P1N9
I have something similar to that link. I plan using it with a battery powered air pump. Some people use sponge filters as their only filter.
You could swap your filter cartridges as you plan. There should be plenty of good bacteria in your gravel.
aquarium cycling is the buildup of bacteria that convert ammonia and nitrite (poisonous) into non toxic nitrate. The bacteria mainly live in your filter media that you do not have because you don't have a filter. The nitrogen cycle is the single most important part about fish keeping. Daily water changes can be stressful. Do you keep him in the tank while changing the water or cup him? Sponge filters are good filter because they have an adjustable flow, but any filter appropriately sized for your tank can be baffled (slowing rate of water output). Whatever filter you get remove any carbon and replace it with biomedia such as seachem matrix or ceramic rings. How many gallons is your tank? Bettas need at least 2.5 gallons but the bigger the better because it will help keep your parameters stable. Also test strips are not that accurate so I would highly suggest getting the liquid test kit. Here are the links for everything I recommend. I hope your guy starts healing soon! Fin rot's best treatment is clean warm water. Maybe lay off the medicines for now because they can be harsh on their organs.
http://fins.actwin.com/mirror/begin-cycling.html
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f12/fish-in-cycling-step-over-into-the-dark-side-176446.html
http://www.amazon.com/Jardin-Aquarium-Cylinder-Sponge-Filter/dp/B005LMQCW2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1425449975&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=sponge+filter
http://www.amazon.com/Matrix-500-mL-7-1-oz/dp/B004PBD4J4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1425449994&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=biomedia
http://www.amazon.com/API-Freshwater-Master-Test-Kit/dp/B000255NCI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1425450046&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=api+liquid+test+kit
Here is the mobile version of your link
I use this one
It's been really reliable so far. You can find different makes and models of similarly styled ones, but this specific brand is the only one I can vouch for.
Sounds good, thanks for the advice! Yeah, my betta has been a total stud through the Ick infection, the drastic increase in temperature and now the ammonia. I removed just the carbon and left the other filter media- it was a big sac of carbon. It is an Azoo Mignon Palm filter. I will keep up with water changes until the beneficial bacteria build up and reduce feeding in the mean time.
I've used this HOB filter with a nano tank.
Here's a great filter and here's a great heater for that tank. I would try changing 0.5 - 1 gallon of water once a week once your tank is cycled. Keep an eye on the test results and adjust your water change routine based on what keeps your levels low enough. Make sure you add water treatment (Prime) to that tap water before you add it to the tank.
This Azoo Mignon 60 is a great little filter: https://www.amazon.ca/Azoo-AZ13097-AZOO-Mignon-Filter/dp/B005VEWCMO I'm using it on my 10L vase. It's a HOB so takes up less tank space than internal or air filters. It has adjustable flow so you can turn it down if you find there's too much current.
I bought one of these tiny HOB filters. It has a variable flow knob and comes with an foam intake filter. Super small, 3.2 x 3.8 x 6 inches. It's so tiny it almost looks like a filter Xmas tree ornament.
You have tons of people already going at you with the "just go for the 5 gallon" so I won't bother with that (2.5 gallon is still perfectly acceptable. I have a 1.5 gallon with a happy betta). Anyways, for filter you have a few options. I've used all of these filters as well.
Finnex Pure-5 Power Filter: https://www.amazon.com/Finnex-Pure-5-Power-Aquarium-Filter/dp/B004NP66M4
One of the very best filters for small set ups. A definite feature you'll love is the adjustable flow it has. Make sure to baffle it up if necessary. I personally use this one the most in my tanks.
AZOO Mignon Filter 60: https://www.amazon.com/AZOO-AZ13097-Mignon-Filter-60/dp/B005VEWCMO
An amazing filter that is very quiet and very powerful. Comes with a pre filter as well so your betta's fin will be super safe. Baffle it up though since it is quite powerful but it's also adjustable.
Fluval Nano Filter: https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A455-Nano-Aquarium-Filter/dp/B004BZKDZC
This one is for when you do get a 5 gallon or bigger. This one is an amazing filter if you are willing to do some DIY on it. One of the major problems is the impeller is sometimes loose in some units and you'll have to wrap some teflon tape on it. If this bothers you, I'd skip this one but this is seriously a great filter.
Another option for filters is a sponge filter which is always cheap and readily available/easily made.
For heaters, you have a few options as well but I'll just list the ones I usually use. NOTE: I personally buy new heaters every year because the possibility of overheating still exists.
Tetra HT-50: https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-26447-Submersible-Aquarium-50-Watt/dp/B000OQO69Q
Don't let the 50 watt scare you because this one is probably one of the best and trusted non-adjustable heater. It is non-adjustable though so it will keep it at around 24-26°C.
Hydor Original Theo: https://www.amazon.com/Hydor-Submersible-Glass-Aquarium-Heater/dp/B0006JLPG8
One of the most trusted adjustable heaters. Useful for when you need to raise the temperature of your water. I haven't really used this one as much as the Tetra one but it does the job for me.
XiLong Heater: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Water-Heater-Fish-Tank-Adjustable-25-50-100-200-300-Pretty-Aquarium-Submersible-/261412637763
This one may seem like a sketchy buy but I honestly prefer it over the Hydor Original Theo. I use this for my 5 gallon and it keeps the temperature very very stable. Cheap as hell too.
I have a 5 gallon I’m selling with a light, heater, and HOB filter for $60 so definitely put your zip code! But before I upgraded my tank I had a simple sponge filter with air pump from amazon, a Nicrew light, and driftwood from a local store that cost me $10... in total my first set up was... air pump , sponge filter , Nicrew light (that was $14 when I got it...) and the tank $10, lid $10, driftwood $10= about $8”:) or you can do this HOB heater
Oh and for plants in this sub, there’s tons of people that sell good, tons of plants, good priced! I got TONS OF PLANTS for $20-$30 from bquad. But he isn’t the only one
im also looking for a 3gal filter, this was recommended many times when i asked around http://www.amazon.com/AZOO-AZ13097-Mignon-Filter-60/dp/B005VEWCMO
this finnex one is tempting http://www.amazon.com/Finnex-Pure-5-Power-Aquarium-Filter/dp/B004NP66M4
If you want the best tank you could get an Ultum 25C. For lights you could use a Chihiros A-series. I use a 25 cm single color on my 5 gallon Fluval Chi and it does a pretty good job lighting things. Red plants turn red. Other plants grow quick. I think you'd be able to grow monte carlo, Marisilea minuta, or S. repens with very few issues. For substrate you could use Miracle Grow Organic Potting Mix capped with gravel. It's cheap and grows plants really well. The Azoo Mignon 60 would work well for the filter. I use it on a 2.5 gallon, but it would work decently on a 5 gallon. With this setup you're looking at $120 before buying plants. This is more than a Spec V. I'd take this over a Spec V though.
Thanks! Here's the filter i use: http://www.amazon.com/AZOO-AZ13097-Mignon-Filter-60/dp/B005VEWCMO
When i first got it, it made a terrible rattling noise at first but after resetting some of the pieces it's been great and is really quiet now. It's also blends in well. I would recommend it!
I got an AZOO Mignon. It works okay. Definitely better than the crap thing it came with. I Velcro'd the light to the back of the tank because it was wicking water out of the tank.
I had one in my 5-gallon tank at one point, but my betta HATED it. It worked well enough and was super quiet, but he despised it. It's surprisingly powerful for its size, for a 3-gallon you'd have to baffle the output and/or shove some sponge in the bottom to make sure his fins don't get sucked into in input. It takes up a surprising amount of space in the tank, too, and my guy used to swim behind it (there's a small space between the filter and suction cup) and get stuck.
Personally, I think it's more trouble than it's worth. I replaced mine with the Azoo Palm Filter and my betta's been much happier.
You could do this filter. I haven't used it myself, but many people use it on the smaller tanks. It should be perfect for a 3 gallon.
This is azoo filter. It's very good for small tanks and creates little to no current. I don't want my shrimpies to be pushed around. :)
Thanks! I planted dwarf hairgrass, pearlweed, anubias petite nana, Echinodorus Aflame, and some random moss that started growing. I have pretty thick layer of substrate (about 50mm / 2in) that is a mix of Fluval Stratum and some ADA amazonia. The tank set-up is a UNS 4.6 gallon, azoo mignon 60 HOB filter, asta 20 LED, and a paintball tank CO2 setup. I plan to add a small canister filter, but the HOB is doing alright for now.
There are several assorted shrimp in the tank, but Stuart seems to ignore them so far.
links
Light: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07236CXBQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Tank:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXFINHJ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
CO2 Regulator and parts:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XW16L4P/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009G68LTG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004M49QDC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078KPCLMY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0100UO72G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Filter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005VEWCMO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
That's good to hear, so they're the same as the SunSun models?
I found this:
http://www.amazon.com/SunSun-HW-304B-External-Canister-Sterilizer/dp/B008986EQO/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
It appears to have a higher flow rate than the Penn Plax Cascade's in
my price range. Seems like a good deal
You are going to need to up your filtration if you plan to get more fish (it would make sense with more space) I would reccomend 2 of these! http://www.amazon.com/SunSun-HW-304B-External-Canister-Sterilizer/dp/B008986EQO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1394340840&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=sunsun
That is what i have on my 125 and they are awesome for a fairly good price.
I use a UV sterilizer in my tank for a few hours a week. I especially turn it on after cleaning the sides of my tank. My water is crystal clear now and I don’t have to put any chemicals in my water. I actually did go the chemical route at first but it did t help me much. My brother had left the lights on in my tank for 13 days straight when I was out of the country and both brown and green algae plagued my tank for over a year. UV is the way to go for sure. This filter has a built in light and it’s top tier (they come in many sizes, this was just the first one that came up on my search).
https://www.amazon.com/HW-304B-5-Stage-External-Canister-Sterilizer/dp/B008986EQO
For filters I'd go with two Fluval FX6's or two SunSun HW-304B's. Either of those will give you at least 8x overturn per hour. Or you could drill it and do a sump system.
The cheapest substrate would be sand from a local hardware store. My favorite so far is a pure white sand in 50 lb. white paper bags from Menards. Other people prefer black blasting sand, play sand, or pool sand. All work equally as well. As cichlids require hard water, you could use aragonite sand to help buffer the water, but a tank that size needs around 200 lbs. of sand and would get expensive quickly. There's also contractor's sand that is actually small pebbles. You can always go with the chunky gravel sold in pet stores. Or, if you're planting your tank, you could go with a dirted tank topped with sand or small gravel.
Throw in some cichlid stones, driftwood, or rocks to spruce up the decor a bit. Good luck!
I use a Sun Sun Canister filter. It is a cheap Chinese brand that works wonderfully. The instructions are not helpful at all, however, and in very broken English. I had to go on YouTube to figure out how to put it together, but once I saw it done it wasn’t difficult at all.
I would suggest this filter. I have them running on all my tanks and it does a really great job, also you dont have to worry about being underfiltered. There is also an identical filter manufactured by pingkay which is sligjtly smaller but comes with all the media. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008986EQO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1416425983&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SY200_QL40
something like this works great. Just google DIY CO2 mixes, get 2 2L pop bottles, and make the mixture. If you get a good one it can last like 2-3 weeks which is pretty much the same as these ones, tho they are a bit of a pain to set up.
Here's what i got.
http://www.amazon.com/DIY-CO2-Aquarium-Plant-System/dp/B008CUZJF6?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00
Also check this video out from Joey, explains everything you need to know.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1JzvfHO31Ug
I bought the fluval mini kit and wasn't happy with it at all. DIY CO2 kits work way better for not a lot more initial cost. Something like this may be better suited to your needs: https://www.amazon.com/DIY-CO2-Aquarium-Plant-System/dp/B008CUZJF6
https://www.amazon.com/DIY-CO2-Aquarium-Plant-System/dp/B008CUZJF6/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=diy+co2+aquarium&amp;qid=1551222345&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-5
You could grab this diy co2 system
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008CUZJF6/ref=asc_df_B008CUZJF65081095/?tag=hyprod-20&amp;creative=395033&amp;creativeASIN=B008CUZJF6&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=167116240456&amp;hvpos=1o3&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=5207187190723081390&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvdev=m&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9061078&amp;hvtargid=pla-305618839130
(Apologies, I don't know how to shorten urls)
And run it with citric acid and baking soda (works better than yeast and doesn't have that yeasty odor)
And also look into EI fert dosing.
You could also grab a few floater plants (not duckweed) to compete with the algae for nutrients, and just remember to scoop out extra ones as they grow. I keep ~5 floaters in my 5 gallon and toss extras in the trash on water change day.
Edit: this will keep you way under $100 even after you buy the kit, an atomizer, ferts and a pH drop checker and should help you combat the algae growth until you can purchase a regulator for pressurized co2.
Yup thats exactly what happeneds.
I learned about it from this video here by Aquarium Co Op
https://youtu.be/VfAJ3ITS3Nw
I bought a DIY Co2 kit from amazon that uses vinegar and baking soda.
https://www.amazon.ca/ZJchao-DIY-Aquarium-Plant-System/dp/B008CUZJF6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=diy+co2&qid=1571041282&sr=8-3
Hope that helps :)
The prices are different from when I ordered them but here's my exact setup!
Here's the co2 system
This is the bubble counter I have
Here's the diffuser I got but there's cheaper options as well
The nice thing about a small tank is I only need about 3-4 bubbles per second so my diy co2 setup can last almost three weeks which marks the time I do a gravel vac and dose with flourish. I keep the co2 running 24/7 and turn on a bubbler 15 mins before I turn the lights off, and turn the bubbler off 15 minutes before I turn the lights on.
This is what I used for my diy co2 setup:
I bought this (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008CUZJF6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) and followed the direction in this link (http://www.co2supermarket.co.uk/diy-co2-kit-setup-instructions-guide-6.html)
I've been using a cheap diy co2 system. This one. It's ok, you just need to buy citric acid (also on Amazon) and baking soda and maintain it about once a week + or -.
I've been running the 24/7 on my 55 for a couple months now. If you don't plan to do CO2, it will be far too much light (at least in 24/7 mode). I was battling hair algae for the first couple weeks until I started CO2. If you raise it up a bit, you may be OK.
I don't see much of a problem going with a slightly Shorter light. You may have slightly less growth on the sides, but I doubt it will be noticeable beyond what full length would give you.
Edit: my CO2 I currently run: DIY generator with bubble counter/diffuser. You need citric acid (canning area of grocery store) every couple of weeks with some baking soda. My indicator shows I can get plenty at about 1 bubble per second. I will likely upgrade to a pressurized system later, just wanted to test drive CO2 before investing too much money.
Yes of course. I'm using this kit that's 15 bucks on Amazon.
Basic concept is you have baking soda in one bottle and citric acid in another. Once you seal up the system you push some acid into the other bottle and keep doing that until you build up some pressurized CO2. After you open the valve and it starts flowing into your tank, the pressure behind the acid will slowly push more of it as needed into the reaction chamber. This allows for you to turn the system off which is not something you can't do with the yeast/sugar method.
I like this method so far, but it does have drawbacks. Some people struggle to build up enough pressure for ceramic diffusers to function correctly. With those coke bottles I can get up to 2 bar without really fearing that they'll pop, but I wasn't sure if even that would be enough. Instead, I chose to route it into a small pump on the right side there and I get great diffusion. The problem with the first time I did that was I didn't have a bubble counter so I was just using the end of the hose to count. Once I had it at a bubble a second, I attached it to the pump, but the lower pressure in there just slurped up all the CO2 before I noticed. Basically used 2 weeks of reactants in an hour lol. I have a bubble counter, check valve, drop checker, and longer tubing coming on Wednesday. (sorry for this wall of text, I just got started and couldn't stop)
swords can get bigger, but you can also keep them trimmed. I personally like to take up as much volume as I can with plants.
The DIY kit I bought came with detailed instructions and was quite reasonable to set up.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008CUZJF6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
most expensive stuff was actually the stupid aquasoil.. no one locally was carrying the fluval stratum anymore, so i got stuck dropping 20 bucks per 4 lb bag. I refuse to use eco complete ever again. Most expensive stuff will be the light and the regulator, going LED and larger tank is more expensive at first, but you save money in the long run
not convinced at these being accurate at all https://www.amazon.com/Aquarium-Dioxide-Monitor-Solution-Indicator/dp/B01C9DGXV0/ref=sr_1_6?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473971368&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=co2+drop+checker
not going to go into the various other crap i bought so totaling it all up ... (preparing to wince)
---
About $575 after tax/shipping/lube.
with the stuff i got that is now in a bin for being crap... tack on about another 150-200 bucks (aquatek regulator/ paintball sytem)
You'd need:
A diffuser and bubble counter (this has both in one and is one I use. Work VERY well in my 10g.
Tubing
A check valve. I do not recommend skimping out here There's also this bubble counter/check valve combo.
And a drop checker
The drop checker is essential for noobs like us. Purists will say you don't need it but I don't want to risk gassing my fish.
Also, I think the regular you linked has a bubble counter and check valve! I just read it's description
Ask away of you have more questions! I have two tank with co2. On my 10g, both my light and regulator are plugged into the same timer and it works fine.
I use the adaptor for the paintball setup, I used to play paintball so had a tank, what I forgot was how easy o-rings get damaged and after a weekend of setup needed new ones to run the adaptor, messing and checking for leaks meant putting the tank on and off. Got a 100 pack of o-rings and been using that adaptor and the rather cheap wyn co2 regulator off Amazon of the same colorway.
At the price of the linked kit, I probably saved a little, piece parting only took a little time, assurance of a more expensive regulator may be a comfort, I knew how they should work and researched mechanism to know I could mess with the one I got if I had a problem.
Rhinox Glass Drop Checker
Aquario Neo CO2 Diffuser S
Adapter
[CO2 Regulator] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D4MBF4Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_w1RTVFzwfDilY)
[Indicator Solution ] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072MJBNLX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_MHSRWpefnxKji)
Tubing 16 Feet
[100 o-rings]
(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009HI6F3W?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share)
I was recommended this Beamswork light on here awhile ago and it has been great for me for the last year or so. If you are looking for a budget light this one has been great for me so far.
As far as co2 goes it is super easy to do honestly. It only cost me about $100 to set mine up and it is great knowing I can put almost any plant in and it has a chance. I am currently starting a carpet in my tank since I've had the co2 setup for awhile. Here is my setup:
But here is a copy pasted comment explaining my setup and links to all the parts I used that I gave to someone else:
Ok. I'll try to type out my whole setup.
The biggest parts of the setup are the tank and regulator. I use an Empire/Tippman co2 tank with a Double Sun Hydroponics Regulator.
Now, aquarium regulators aren't made with paintball tanks in mind, but most sporting goods stores won't refill tanks above 24oz due to safety reasons. So instead of buying a 5lb tank that no one can refill, I just use a simple Aquatek Paintball co2 adapter to attach the regulator to the tank I have. So for that part of the setup you just attach the adapter to the regulator and then after you fill your Co2 tank attach the tank to the adapter, done (make sure the regulator is plugged in and everything is tightened if you have already filled the co2 tank). Do not attach the adapter to the Co2 tank first, the adapter opens the tank so you'll just empty your Co2 into the air. So attach everything to the Co2 tank last lol.
I also use teflon tape on the tank threads and adapter threads just to help prevent any loss of co2 through the adapter. It probably wouldn't leak without it but I would rather be sure so I just wrapped up both pieces before the install.
Now that you have your regulator/tank setup we just need to get the co2 into the aquarium. I attach Aquatek co2 tubing to the bubble counter that comes attached to the regulator and attach it to a Rhinox check valve, this prevents any water from getting to the regulator, then run co2 tubing from the check valve to a Rhinox co2 diffuser, this condenses the co2 into tiny bubbles so it absorbs into the water.
Boom, almost done. We have co2, we are getting it into the tank, but now how do we know how much? We need a NilocG co2 drop checker and some Drop Checker Solution to put in it. This will come with a card that says the proper colors. I would suggest starting with low co2, check the next day, if the drop checker is still blue, increase the co2 a tiny bit and check again the next day, repeat until it turns green, yellow is bad and you might gas your fish so don't increase co2 too much at a time to protect the fish.
Regulator, bubble counter, dual gauge, needle valve built in one. - $57.99 - I've read the more expensive the better, but this one has worked great for me.
Inline Diffuser - $39.99 - I use this to attach to my tubing on the canister filter. Much cheaper if you go with a regular diffuser that goes inside the aquarium.
C02 Tubing - $9.99.
I bought a 5 gallon filled C02 tank from a local welding store for about $60.
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Hello I was having the same issues as you in which my water had a low tds (around 40) and high phosphates so I decided to get an ro unit without the di and I am pretty satisfied. [I went with the ro buddie that gets sold on Amazon for about 55 bucks and it's quite cheaper today.] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DOG63OY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zAfmzb2AQ0QVQ) I personally prefer this one because I only need ro water every 2 weeks for water changes on my 10 and 20 gallon shrimp tanks so in total only need about 3-4 gallons every 2 weeks. My ro water comes out at a tds of 3 ppm with the ro buddie but if you want it to come out at zero, you can also purchase the di part as well.
Get her going then! LOL
There are cheaper RO units out there but they aren't as efficient or cheap to maintain as the more expensive units. But a cheap RO unit is still better than tap.
$60 RO Buddy
You won't regret the sump, its worth every penny. Allows for stability and places to hide all your equipment. I've ran sumps on all my reefs. Here are some motivation pics and vids.
Old 125 vid
125
Sump
Something like this would probably work.
https://smile.amazon.com/VicTsing-Submersible-Aquarium-Fountain-Hydroponics/dp/B00EWENKXO/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1535763850&amp;sr=8-2-fkmr0&amp;keywords=small+water+pump+for+fountain+cordless
apartment brewer checking in! A friend of mine turned me on to the method she uses for her immersion chiller (and I've seen around the internet a bunch) and it works great. 20+ft of copper coil, two vinyl tubes to attach, a submersible pump (kinda like this) and a bucket. attach one vinyl tube to pump and coil, other end goes from coil to sink. Fill a bucket, put pump in bucket and go to town. After 5 or so minutes the water coming out of the tube into the sink has cooled to where you can put it back in the bucket (adding a few frozen water bottles to the bucket) and reuse the water.
no need for garden hose or crazy business!
VicTsing 80 GPH (300L/H) Submersible Water Pump For Pond, Aquarium, Fish Tank Fountain Water Pump Hydroponics with 5.9ft (1.8M) Power Cord https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EWENKXO/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_ydEkyb7Z76REJ
Seriously. $9
I use five gallon buckets, and I bought a small water pump on Amazon, pumps the water in slowly disturbing nothing. I generally just let the hose pour water down the side of the glass.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EWENKXO/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504375762&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=water+pump
AquaClear perfect size for you tank.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hagen-A600-AquaClear-Filter-Listed/dp/B00020SVDG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=aquaclear+20&amp;qid=1566824496&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=aquaclear+&amp;sr=8-1
How did you cycle it? And what are your ammonia readings currently?
Not to mention they'll eat a lot of plants! A 20 long is a perfect sized tank for any beginner imo (planted, saltwater, or basic setup) cause there's a lot of room to work with and not hard to find a light that penetrates deep enough if you've got something to grow.
Just not for goldfish! They are very messy, eat a lot and poop a lot and overall are messy babies bumping into things. Cute, tho!
Some tips:
And my best advice of all..RESEARCH! The world of fish keeping can be a little daunting at first, since there's so much to know before you can even take the first steps. But stick to it! It's not as difficult as it seems and honestly? You're gonna be fine as long as you keep up with water changes and practice patience.
I absolutely hate tetra filters. They are junk. My top fin filter actually worked pretty well but it just didn’t last very long. It sounds like yours is really good though. You can’t go wrong with adjustable flow either. If you ever need another or get a bigger tank you should check this aqua clear filter out. I got it after my top fin quit working and I love it. It’s adjustable too and they have them for all different size tanks.
aquaclear 30
sponge filter
https://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-30-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B00020SVDG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1539614035&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=aquaclear+30&amp;psc=1
That’s a link to what I got. I bought mine in store at petco though and it may have said fluval aquaclear on it, I don’t know if they work together or something.
I apologize if my post came off snarky, but bettas are a very misunderstood breed. They belong in a min. 5 gallon tank. I've seen others raise in something as small as a 3 gallon tank, but it was not worth the maintenance they had to keep up on. Bettas do best in 78-80 degree water, so a heater and thermometer is mandatory. You want a filtration system, but you want to be careful with the current as something too strong will stress them out. Bettas are not the best swimmers because of the weight of their fins, so most bettas will began to bite them off to lessen the load. As others have suggested, you want to test the water, either by bringing samples to your lfs, are buying a kit, which I prefer. You will also want to cycle your tank to avoid ammonia spikes. I've added links to some helpful things including illnesses so you may be able to diagnose with a little research.
Betta illnesses
Nitrogen cycle
Betta fish care
Great filter with adjustable flow
Heater 100w
Edit : api test kit
Great for establishing a new tank
Dechlorinate, detoxify
You probably want to do 20% to 25% daily water changes. At this point you're not worried about killing the beneficial bacteria, but removing the harmful waste your fish are producing (pee and poop).
Not sure what your set up is but I bought one of these a few months ago. Totally worth it.
If you have the money to spend I would recommend the Python. It hooks up to your sink so it's just a matter of pulling some levers.
Other wise, ten gallon storage containers + armless rolling chairs work well for me. Dechlorinate in the ten gallon then use one gallon containers to pour the water into the tank. And a siphon is a must!
In addition to what the previous poster said about cycling the tank before you get your axolotl(s), I recommend a canister filter for a 20g tank.
I use this one: Penn Plax Cascade 500 GPH Canister Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DJIQW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_z1TDybRH4D83H
It comes with a spray bar to help with aeration without disturbing your axolotl(s). I used a small hanging filter at first but it did not do the trick. Every time I chemically tested the water it was far from the correct conditions. The information for replacement filter media is either included or easy to find.
I also can't recommend this enough:
25 Foot - Python No Spill Clean and Fill Aquarium Maintenance System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_P3TDyb818ZDDW
It attaches to a sink faucet (you will need a tool to remove the aerator on the faucet) and will both drain and fill your aquarium and save you a ton of time. It disturbs the water way less than lugging containers back and forth. My axolotls don't care about it at all, sometimes they would stay right in front of the tube as it was pouring water. They make different lengths, so measure the distance between your tank and sink before you purchase it. You'll want a little slack, of course.
Get a bottle of dechlorinator for when you do water changes. A digital aquarium thermometer is crucial for making sure the tank stays below 68°F. Having a separate container and a net is helpful in case you need to take the axolotl(s) out for salt baths, tank maintenance, or fridging.
Live plants are good for the tank's ecosystem but having some additional fake plants gives the tank a nice look. Make sure your live plants are either the floating kind or you have them secured because axolotls snuffle and bobble around and have a tendency to pull up your plants. If you feed them frozen bloodworms (as adults) it's helpful to have a clear turkey baster so that you can suck up the worms and feed them easily and make sure that the baster is always clean. Make sure you have something to clean up their poo, like a designated spoon or something.
I had sand for a while but it's a little hard to keep clean, so I removed all my sand recently and my axolotls seem to like it better. I replaced all their decor recently (because they're spoiled, lol) and one of mine really likes all of the new hides and the other really likes all of the new places to climb. They really like laying on top of their plants for some reason? So get sturdy plants I guess.
If your local temperature is hot and humid, you'll probably want to invest in (or build) some kind of chiller because evaporative cooling with fans won't work in high humidity. If it's hot but mostly dry, you might be able to get away with fans and an insulator (like this guy did: https://youtu.be/zp6QhXArIEY). I built one slightly better by using two layers of foam core instead of cardboard, and cut the sides of the four panels so they sort of puzzle-pieced together, making it easier to check on them.
I apologize for the lots of scattered info but I hope it helps!
Siphoning tube just goes into a bucket and you have to carry, where a python has a valve you can switch so it drains into and out of your sink: https://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC
Currently I use this: https://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC , you plug it to your tap (mine is plugged in the bathtub, it doesn't fit properly, so I use duct tape, but it works!)
You don't need to let tap water sit for outdoor vegetable gardens.
Two alternatives:
python no electronics it uses a Venturi pump, it basically uses water flow to get suction
Have you considered a python water changing system? I love mine, it's saved my back for sure. Plus you can get the tubing from any hardware store too!
The obvious answer, but if you want to save a few bucks or dont have a sink close by this one works with a bucket...
Get one of these: 25 Foot - Python No Spill Clean and Fill Aquarium Maintenance System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gZxtybDR5SQEG
You need to treat the water as it goes in, though. Once the tank is established and you do smaller water changes, I usually put the chemicals in as I'm filling from the tap. But I know the parameters of our tap water and know exactly what will need to go in as far as pH balancing etc.
The main thing is really just to monitor everything closely. Check the water from your tap before you move the tank. The nice thing about the python is that it aerates the water so that there isn't as much chlorine before it hits the tank. But you still need to add a water conditioner (I like Seachem Prime).
For the first adding of water, you want to preserve as much of the microscopic flora and fauna as possible. In my original comment I didn't add this, but don't scrub the tank or remove the sand if you can because colonies of beneficial bacteria live there. And then slowly add water of the proper temperature and acclimate your fish as slowly as possible.
I use a syphon hose. Right here on amazon
I would like to add that I live in Spokane,WA. And use tap water every time.
After every water change I treat my water with Stress Coat
I own 1 Oscar, 1 Red Jewel Cichlid, 1 Convict and 1 Pleco in my 75g.
As far as moving the fish, nothing changes when you go bigger. The steps listed above are perfect. My best advice is, if the fish store can hold the fish for you until you set up your tank at home, do that. Other than that you're just at a race against time from the moment the fish go into the bags. You benefit from being close to your LFS, so don't worry! And post pics when its done!
As far as your dechlorinator goes, check out Seachem Safe in place of Seachem Prime. It is essentially the powdered form of Prime so it is more concentrated and lasts forever. That 250g container treats something insane like 50,000 gallons of water where the 500mL bottle of prime treats 5,000. And this is by no means essential but the Python water changer is an amazing tool and has made water changes so much easier and less stressful. As far as substrate if you go with sand I would use pool filter sand, you can get a 50lb bag at Lowe's or Home Depot for about $6. I use it in all of my tanks with no issue. I have read that the play sand can be quite a bit messier and take longer to settle, though I have no personal experience with it. Good luck!
25 Foot - Python No Spill Clean and Fill Aquarium Maintenance System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_n7NRCb42QKKM8
Ah okay, that sounds tough! Have you considered getting a Python Water Changer? I bought one, & it changed my life lol.
And depending on what vendor you purchase your shrimps from, they can come w/ a whole host of ailments, unfortunately. This is especially w/ any neocaridinia shrimp, that may have a species-specific fungus. 🙁
Additionally, you may want to transfer some of the gravel from your previous tank into the 10gal. Siphoning the water isn’t enough to transfer the cycled bacteria over, as the bacteria live on surfaces, such as the substrate & filter media. During tank setups or temporary tanks, you can speed up the cycling process by seeding the tank w/ filter material from an already established tank. To keep the bacteria alive during any water changes or tank moves, have the media submerged in the same tank water it was housed in, & don’t let it get too hot or cold.
The one I was referring to comes with a little valve in the line and an adapter to connect it to your sink. I'll find a link when I'm at a pc.
edit: Here's the link
Little fish could go up it, but just be careful. It doesn't create a huge suction or anything.
As far as plants, both Java fern and pretty much any species of Anubias would be easy to care for and help out your tank. Anubias is a slow grower which means it won't use up a ton of nutrients (nitrate, etc) but Java fern should pull a little more out. There are also floating plants you can look into that work well. Honestly for this stuff /r/plantedtank is a great resource
I don't think the filter is the problem.
I was in the same boat as you to a T. Turns out my turtle was a girl so I wasn't expecting as big a turtle when I adopted her from a friend.
First, get the turtle tank away from the windows. The algae will practically be non existent. Also, if you have rocks from outside, they tend to create algae as well, so forget them unless you want to make a massive project out of it (still probably not worth it).
Second, buy one of these.
It will make cleaning a turtle tank a breeze. I swear by it. It is much longer than one from any pet store and you will never need a bucket again. If you do have this (assuming you have rocks/pebbles at the bottom) make sure you hold it straight down to make a vortex (like a soft tornado). It will suck up everything but the rocks.
Bonus: with this tube, just reverse it and it puts water back into the tank from your sink. Freaking fantastic.
Back when I was younger I hated when that happened. Now I just use a python http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000255NXC/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Check out the python water changing system! Get a hose length that will reach from your tank to your room. I recommend also purchasing the green hook that makes refilling easier, as well as a longer siphon attachment (my personal opinion. Not necessary.) It has made my life a million times easier. What I do when I refill is attach the hook, and run my temperature matched water back into my tank. About halfway through being refilled I will dose the full amount of my tank with dechlorinator. No more buckets!
Python water changer
Watch some videos of this system on YouTube so you can get an idea of all of its parts and to see how it works!
Here's what I have so far and my quick write up.
My dad started the tomato plant that I am using in soil. He had too many for his garden, so I used that instead of starting one from seed in rockwool. My next plant will be started from seed.
I picked up a 5 gal bucket and Lid from Home Depot. <$5.
I cut a hole in the Lid to fit the 3" Net Cups. I put one right in the center. I quickly found out the cup it too small to support the plant so I had to use a support stick. I just bought this 6" net cup bucket lid.
The plant is supported in Expanded Clay balls. I chose this material as apposed to 'Hydroton, Coco coir, Viagrow stones, pearlite...' because from my very little research I found the clay to be the most environmentally friendly and easiest to use, disclaimer: I could be very wrong here.
The nutrient solution used General Hydroponics Maxi Grow. Simple to use, add X scoops per X gal of water. I am about to switch to Maxi Bloom. She is flowering and starting to produce fruit. I do now know when the best time to switch solutions. I am learning by experiment here.
To keep the nutrient solution oxygenated, I used this Air pump,two of of these air stones, and tubing. Any items will do, I used this products because I know an employee of Penn Plax and got them for cost $. Any pump will work, I got a two outlet pump for future expansion.
You should also be sure to have the correct pH for your particular plant. Here is a chart and a great site. I used this pH Test Kit and pH adjust.
It's that simple. Right now the plant is outside and gets about 8 hours of sun. I plan on keeping it outside as long as possible, then will bring it in and have to choose a light source for it.
tl;dr What I used for my first DWC tomato plant experiment. Step 1: Click all links above. Step2: Buy. Step 3: Tomatoes
Edit: Also, Watch this video
OK, so here's one problem - you are not going to get accurate results with test strips. But, I don't know what your finance situation is, so maybe you need to use them for now and anything is certainly better than nothing. If you have a few bucks to spend, get a test kit like this one, which will test much of what you want to know about except water hardness, but this one does that.
Your nitrates aren't bad. Before we talk about things to try, I have to say the following: if you change more than one thing at a time you will never know what's working and what isn't. Try one change at a time, give each change two or three days to make a difference, keep a written record with dates (and time, if you're obsessive like me), and don't just write down what you change. Try to include things you observe, and try to take cell phone pics so you can accurately measure change. Be patient, observe the tank daily, be patient, and try to be patient.
An 8 hour split may be too much with the Nicrew, but it really isn't way overboard. I do a 7 hour split but I have no experience with Nicrews, I have two Finnex Planteds and a BeamsWork, and I don't know when you changed to the Nicrew and your 8 hour regimen. You could try a blackout for a few days, and then back to your current regimen.
If your light is sitting atop your tank you can try raising it a bit. A 10 gallon is what? 12 inches tall? You can jerry rig something to raise the light, or you can get something like this, or you can hang the light from the ceiling with fishing line. If you have aquascaping tweezers you can pull algae out manually, or you can use a toothbrush; not to brush the leaves, but to grab the algae in the bristles and pull it out. I've tried all of these things in different tanks, with good results. I've also used Seachem Excel, but only once or twice a week, not daily as the directions say. It definitely helps, but it isn't a cure and it only kills the algae, like the Algaefix you are already using. If you use Excel, wash your hands afterward. There are some scary and, to my mind not very scholarly, articles on the web about the chemical used in Excel, which Seachem claims is a different isomer than what it actually uses. But wash your hands afterward anyway - it's a simple precaution. Keep this in mind: if you use either one, it will make it harder to tell if the other things you are doing are having any effect. So, maybe bite the bullet for a couple weeks to try the other things, and if you start making headway you can use just a bit of the Algaefix or Excel to help push things along.
You should also consider how heavily planted your tank is. More plant load is better to out-compete the algae. If you have a lot of plants, you also want to provide them with nutrients or the light is next to useless. A good way to increase the plant load inexpensively and relatively fast is floaters. Check the AquaSwap forum here on reddit - /r/AquaSwap/, but keep in mind that you cannot be certain that you will not get snails with the plants, even if the seller claims the plants are dipped before shipping. Snails are not a bad thing, and would probably be helpful for you. Another inexpensive way to beat algae! And, if they get out of hand you just stick a stainless steel fork in a hunk of cucumber, put it in the tank for about two hours, grab a zip-loc baggie and hold it in the tank, grab the fork, put the cucumber and snails in the bag, pull the fork out of the cucumber, and close the bag. Into the garbage with it. It will be covered with snails.
Getting back to the floaters, they will suck up nitrates, provide shade for your anubias, and you'll be pulling handfuls out of the tank in no time (into the garbage! don't take a chance of letting them into the wild by throwing them in your yard). You can keep the floaters corralled with clear air line tubing and suction cups. Make sure the diameter matches, like these do. Cut a length of hose, heat near one end while holding the end so you can pull it until it comes off, leaving a pointy end that you can now stick into the other end of your length of hose, creating a circle. I use the silicon repair stuff to "glue" it together. This guy shows you a better way to do it, in his second video in the series at 2:45. But if you want to get motivated for your algae war, watch the entire series. You will never be the same. And after that, go learn here.
There are a lot more things you can do, but maybe start with these and keep reading about this stuff whenever you get a chance. Good Luck, and let us know how you make out.
Cool. Maybe getting a sponge filter is good since it's good to learn other filtering options. It seems like sponge filters need some air pump and airline (please correct me if I am mistaken).
Would the following, airline and pump, be the only additional things I need?
https://www.amazon.com/Penn-Plax-Aquariums-Flexible-Standard/dp/B0002563MW/ref=pd_bxgy_199_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=0V8RYSC7JNHZTRN6D913
https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-77851-Whisper-Pump-10-Gallon/dp/B0009YJ4N6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511318178&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=air+pump+fish
I plan to grow larger variant tomatoes such as beefsteak and want to make sure this kind of layout and these components will be good enough for that purpose.
Here is the list of components I'm planning to use:
&#x200B;
The remaining plumbing components I need I'll pick up from my local Home Depot.
It’s 1/4inch airline tubing, you can buy some on amazon for super cheap!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002563MW?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Fair warning, incoming essay haha
27 gallons is perfectly fine. The first thing you will want to read up on is the nitrogen cycle and fishless cycling. The best way to cycle your tank is to ask a local fish or pet store if they can give you some used filter media to jump start your cycle. If not, buy an API test kit and follow the steps in those guides then your tank will cycle in about a month.
For filters you have two main options Hang off the back (HOB) or canister. HOB are easy to maintain and clean which seems great as a beginner. They need to be cleaned every couple-few weeks. Aquaclear are great HOBs. For your size tank I would get an aquaclear 50 or two of the 20/30s (one for each side).
I prefer canister filters. They give you more options for customization, can hold more media, and don't need to be cleaned as often as HOB. Buuuut they typically come at a steeper price. The most popular brands are eheim, fluval, and sunsun. I have eheims and love them. Reviews for sunsuns can be hit or miss, but they definitely have good value for their price. When picking a filter you generally want a turnover rate of 8-10 times your tank size. So 27 gallon tank, youd want about 216 - 270 gallons per hour (gph), keep this in mind when picking a canister.
If you plan on tropical fish you will definitely need a heater. Aqueon pro and eheim make good heaters. If you go canister, you can get an inline heater which are nice because you don't have to look at it or try to hide it in your aquarium.
For planted tanks you need a substrate. The cheapest option is to use pool filter sand along with some root tabs. Look into the walstad method if you wanna keep it low tech and cheap. The only problem with this method is that if you ever want to move plants or hardscape around it can be a bit messy. The more expensive route is to buy some aquasoil. There are a few types, but the most well known is ADA aquasoil. These substrates are packed with nutrients that last at least a couple years usually. In between is to use a porous substrate like Fluorite or eco-complete. These come with a little nutrients, but will need fertilizers to continue its benefit.
Fertilizers area great way to keep your plants happy and healthy, but for many plants are not really necessary. If you decide to use them you can buy them in liquid or dry form. I suggest buying dry because it is much cheaper, but you will have to figure out how much you need to dose. Luckily there are calculators out there that can do it for us!
Lighting you have many options. My favorite are finnex LEDs. They are middle of the ground pricing wise and do their job very well in my experience. Here is a good guide for lighting. When researching a light you want to use you should do so by finding its PAR value at the level of your substrate. Low is about 0-30 PAR, medium 30-50, and high 50+ PAR. Low you don't need pressurized CO2 to avoid algae, medium it is recommended, but you can get away with a densely planted aquarium and use of seachem excel, and high you need pressurized CO2.
I like to use hardscape in my aquariums. Things like rock and drift wood give a natural appearance to aquariums, provide shelter for livestock and take up space. If you get into aquascpaing, hardscape plays a major role.
Plant selection will depend on your lighting, fertilizer, and CO2. Here is a list of good low light/low tech plants. If you want more demanding plants do your research and ask questions if you have them!
Fish selection depends on you and what you like. See a fish you're interested in? Do NOT automatically trust a sales man at a petshop or fish store. Do your own research on the fish before buying and ask questions about people's experience with the fish and its compatibility with your tank. In a 27 gallon you can fit 1, maybe 2, groups of most smaller schooling fish and then some bottom feeders.
A general stocking plan would be 10-12 of a schooling fish like neon tetra (or something of that size), 10 salt and pepper cories, 6 otocinclus, and some red cherry shrimp.
The most important advice I can give you is to do your research. Doing your research will save you time and money. People are generally friendly and helpful on this subreddit so don't be afraid to ask more questions.
Yep it's going onto a bureau. For the filter I was thinking of the AquaClear 50 More water stability is also always nice
Lighting: It depends on how deep the tank is. In my 55g, 29g, and standard 20g, crypts and small swords have a really hard time with standard T5 fluorescent lighting. With double-bright LEDs, they do OK.
Anubias and java ferns are my heroes. They don't grow very fast, but they just don't need a lot of fussing over, either.
Java moss won't grow where it doesn't get light -- but it doesn't have to be strong light.
If I had my preference, every tank I own would have the proportions of a 20g long. There's a lot of volume for water and fish, but it's nice and shallow so it's easy to light and for plants to thrive. My 20g long has the crappiest lights and the most prolific growth of plants.
HOB filters: If you look at the way Aquaclear filters are put together, there are three distinct components. There's a coarse foam insert for mechanical filtration. There are pumice beads with lots of surface area for bacterial cultures to grow (bacterial filtration). Finally, there's a carbon packet that's meant to provide chemical filtration. They're all really important in an aquarium, but I rely on my plants to do the chemical filtration bit.
Now, don't get me wrong -- I've run tanks with Penguin & Aqueon & Biobag filters with the carbon already in there and it didn't kill my plants. But with my heavily planted tanks (where I've upgraded to Aquaclear filters), I have been able to completely omit the carbon component to no ill effect for my plants or my fish.
If nothing else, it reduces my operational costs. All I do is rinse out the foam insert from time to time and/or run the pumice beads under the tap to wash off the schmutz. They don't wear out (at least not in the time I've had mine running), and they shouldn't be scrubbed or sanitized, because the invisicritters that would make us sick are the things that keep the tank healthy.
The biggest thing that I've discovered to help my low-tech, low-light planted tanks look great is to take advantage of vertical planting, meaning that I get big (tall) pieces of driftwood and anchor plants all over them. That way, I end up with greenery going gangbusters at various levels without having to rely on some kind of stem plant (although Hygrophilia difformis/water wisteria is a good one) to grow upwards all the way from the bottom of the tank.
I really like these filters
http://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-50-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FUM
for a 30 gallon tank you'd want one capable of up to 50 gallons or so.
Theyre great because of the three separate cartridges- Also, ignore the packaging, you can reuse the sponge and the ceramic rings indefinitely unless a terrible awful disease breaks out. So this filter saves you money too!!
Edit: Puffers are usually too big/aggressive/brackish to include in a tank like this. Unless you had mollies/platys which have a high salt tolerance. Cories have zero salt tolerance tough.
Some of my favorite community fish are Galaxy Rasbora or Celestial Pearl Danio (same fish) I also like Badis. Theyre anabantids(sp) like the Betta.
I'd also highly recommend live plants. they really make you look good. Aquariumplants.com has total and trace substrate pellet fertilizer which Is pretty good at keeping them well fed.
My Ammonia and Nitrites spiked. After some help from you all my fish couldn't be happier. I got a second filter The AC50. I am leaving the old filter running in the tank for 6+ weeks to help grow good bacteria. I currently dont have another tank so I will leave both filter running, that and with 25% water changes every other day for a week plus Prime and Stability the fish should be quite happy.
Thank you guys so much for all your help.
Check out the Aquaclear 50.
I dunno if you'd call it "budget" but it's the best for the money really. Also, I take the carbon out and put in more bio material.
I definitely wish I got an aquaclear judging by the reviews. I got a top fin 20 on sale a long while ago for my 10 gallon, and for even less than half the cost I wouldn't get it again. Filtration isn't bad, but it is really loud. Somehow even louder with the cover on it. I ended up replacing it with a much larger penguin biowheel filter with some aquaclear sponges in place of the biowheels which is doing quite well.
By the way, if you are in the US amazon has the AC20 for a little bit cheaper.
I marked things with a [w] if they're on my WL!
Bonus:
Oregon Chai!
Over filtration is always better. I recommend Aqua Clear 50 rated for 20-50g.
Aqueon quietflow 50 would also be a solid choice.
1- I’m aware of the window issue, but my house is full of windows (no complaints there!) and there wasn’t a better spot. That window is north facing and we rarely open the blinds.
2- except for the somewhat impulse bought setup I’m over planning.
3- substrate is sand and river stones.
4- I’m probably going with no background anyways, just out of laziness. I like the light strip idea.
5- definitely going with real plants
6- obviously. :) I have a dumbo plakat
7- I’m 100% getting corys. Do the different types have different personalities or just coloration? I’m leaning towards panda. I’m probably getting Harlequin Rasboras. I’m considering a snail because of the window/algae situation. I’m going to stock it really slowly though.
8- it came with a light.
9- already bought this filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000260FUM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kbSaBb411RKF2
10-13- already done
14- probably going with a floating log (or two)
15- I might use the small tank I’m moving my betta out of for shrimp.
16- will do. In the small tank I have I use a turkey baster as a “vacuum”, that’s not going to work anymore. Haha.
I’ll definitely post updates :)
I didn't use that power 10 for more than a few minutes because I saw how much he struggled with it. I purchased an Aquaclear 20 and the video is showing it on its lowest setting. He was fine on the left side of the tank, but I still wanted it a little calmer for him. I moved the tall plant from the left side to where the water pours in and that seems to have solved any issue that he had. Also, filling the tank up closer to the rim improved it even further. I will post another video once I get home tonight.
AquaClear 20 Power Filter - 110 V, UL Listed (Includes AquaClear 20 Carbon, AquaClear 20 Foam & AquaClear 20 BioMax) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000260FVG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_czfaAbPX4DE5X
http://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-20-Power-Filter-Includes/dp/B000260FVG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1401931978&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=aquaclear+20
A little pricy but very good reviews, very customizable as to what kind of media you want though and easy to clean.
My betta is in an aqueon 5 gallon tank with an Aquaclear 20 filter and an Eheim Jager 25W heater. Water parameters at perfect 0/0/<5.
I also have a Finnex Planted+ clip-on light, but unless you're growing live plants, it might be too much light.
Otocinclus Catfish are small algae eating armored catfish that get about 2 inches long. They are shy, peaceful fish that eat algae. You can compare them to a dwarf pleco pretty much.
There is no need to QT plants and I'm not sure what you mean by which way the stems will grow out from. The only thing I can think of is that you're asking which way you should plant the seeds? Plants always grow towards the light, so you should have no problems there. I would recommend starting with plants that are already grown though. This way, even if you have low lighting, they'll be a decent size and you won't have to wait ages for them to grow.
I see you have new questions! Here we go:
You could be over feeding that’s a big cause of it so the best way to feed them that I find is to give them as much as they will eat in ten minutes. And this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hagen-A595-AquaClear-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FVG is the best filter I can find for a 20 gallon
>What plants?
This is a good place to start. There are lots of good beginner plants that are hard to kill and don't need a lot of light or special requirements. Annubia, java fern and java moss are the sort of 'go to' beginner plants. Bettas also like shade, so maybe look into some floaters like amazon frogbit or salvinia (not sure I spelled that right). I also enjoy water sprite and cabomba (again not sure of spelling) for stuff to grow taller in the background.
>What substrate?
If you keep things simple, you won't need a special substrate. A lot of the beginner plants take in nutrients from the water column, so they don't need any special soils or substrate to grow. In fact, many of them don't need to be rooted down at all, you can just glue them to rocks to keep them in place.
>How should I plant them?
Taller plants toward the back. Do research on plants you intend to get, some do feed from the substrate primarily and might need root tabs for healthy growth.
>How long in advance to plant, how to cycle a tank?
So, plant them when you start up your tank. No need to cycle, just toss them in dechlorinated water.
As far as how to cycle, this is a decent guide for a fishless cycle. You're going to need a way to test your water through this, the best bet is an API master test kit. The best prices are online if you've got time to wait for shipping. A little pricier than the test strips, but they're more accurate and last way longer, so it makes up for the price.
>What filter?
Personally I use sponge filters, they're super gentle and have a stupid amount of room for your bacteria to grow. They're super cheap, I got 2 for less than 10 dollars (plus shipping), but they do need an air pump to run them. You'll also want some check valves and a way to restrict the air flow - they make little inlets that have flow valves to control the air for cheap.
Alternatively, I've heard great things about the aqua clear 20 filter. It's got an adjustable flow so you can slow it down to suit your tank, and does a better job than sponge filters for water clarity. Also pretty cheap, and you won't need to buy the air pump.
>What to do with empty tank?
Make it a shrimp tank!
This one?
Do you wash the charcoal when you renew it? And do you have anything in your filter other than charcoal? I recommend a sponge so the waste can be absorbed. Squeeze that thing out into the sink once a week and you should be golden.
Ps: this is the absolute best filter I’ve ever owned. it kicks ass.
I hear GREAT things about this filter.
https://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-20-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FVG/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504219125&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=aquaclear+20
An [Aquaclear] (http://www.amazon.ca/AquaClear-20-Power-Filter-Includes/dp/B000260FVG) is always a great choice, and although it's pricey it'll last a long time. Make sure to set the water output to low as bettas don't like strong current.
So I just use the pump and the tubing from this filter because it sucked up my last betta and I still had the parts for it. But you can use this pump or anything that is the right size for your tank :)
Which pump did u get? I use this Tetra Whisper Easy to Use Air Pump for Aquariums (Non-UL) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009YJ4N6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jaYlDbMBEJQNF , with a 3d printed nozzle and works great
Yes. You are basically running a reservoir. Throw in hydroguard and keep it cold. Below 70.
Also you will need to recirculate the water to keep it mixed.
Tetra 77851 Whisper Air Pump, 10-Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009YJ4N6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_HjdiAb6WPFQNR
You will need airstone along with the air pump listed above.
Lastly. Keep it covered and in the dark.
The only real way of keeping it is to get a cheap air pump (http://www.amazon.com/Tetra-77851-Whisper-Pump-10-Gallon/dp/B0009YJ4N6/ref=zg_bs_2975471011_1) an constantly have it running in the bucket.
something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Whisper-Easy-Aquariums-Non-UL/dp/B0009YJ4N6/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1524452550&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=tetra+whisper+air+pump+10
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B078T77JB7/?coliid=IV1JJN2CH6QW1&colid=4MYRMX8WEPBZ&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
I use filters like this one, I also have had the best luck with tetra whisper pumps
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0009YJ4N6/?coliid=ICFT4QKY74HXV&colid=4MYRMX8WEPBZ&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
and I highly recommned using a check valve for safety
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07H33NN41/?coliid=I2XGE2HSSA63EQ&colid=4MYRMX8WEPBZ&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Keep it until it's falling apart - same as the sponge. It should take a long time, perhaps years. Just clean them periodically. The only things you need to replace regularly are the optional filter components: carbon every 3-4 weeks and loose filter floss as needed.
I've been running the Aquaclear 30 on a tank for 16 months and the sponges and ceramic are still in great shape. I keep two sponges at the bottom and two bags of ceramic on top. No carbon. I've replaced the prefilter once.
Doubling up on the media is beneficial in a couple ways. First, it's extra room for bacteria to grow. Second, once it's seeded you can take some if you need it for a new, hospital, or QT tank.
For instance: Last month I set up a small QT tank and instantly cycled it by taking some of the Aquaclear 30's media. I used this $5 filter with this $7 air pump plus some airline and the tank was up and running. I replaced what I took from the 30 with fresh media and the next time I need another tank I'll repeat the process. 😀
Cherry and blue dream are the same species and will interbreed.
I would recommend picking one or the other.
When they interbreed, you won't get purple, instead you'll get some poorly colored blues, some poorly colored reds and a lot of "plain" which are basically mostly clear with some light brown.
Also neocardinas like lower temperatures, if you're looking to build a colony you should avoid tropical fish since they prefer warmer temps. If you're keeping shrimp a heater isn't really necessary.
I agree to wait for the $1 per gallon sale, it really is difficult to beat.
Over the last few years I've had 6 20g's going at the same time with slightly different set-ups from sponge filters to HOB to canister. I experimented with all methods, hi-tech, low-tech, waldstadt.
The most important thing you can do is think about what your end goal is. You'll make mistakes at first, everyone does. But if you plan ahead you can minimize how costly they will be.
If I were to recommend a set-up to a beginner.
https://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-20-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FUM
https://www.amazon.com/SunSun-Submersible-Aquarium-Hydroponic-Powerhead/dp/B00OUJ60RY
https://www.amazon.com/Current-USA-Satellite-Freshwater-Aquarium/dp/B00C7OTE0O
https://www.amazon.com/Aqua-Soil-Amazonia-Liter-Normal/dp/B00519832W
So I'm planning on getting a 55 gallon planted tank and was looking around for HOB filters. Would getting two of this be overkill? My hope is to keep the tank as clean as possible at all time with little water changes per week.
Alright...time to start typing out this monster.
Ive been reading guides and stuff, but i have a terrible memory when reading things, and theres some stuff i want to double check, etc.
Im looking to set up my old 29 gal tank from when i was a kid (its been empty for 10+ years). My goal is to do a planted tank with primarily tetras and shrimp...maybe a pleco and perhaps another type of schooling fish.
I probably wont be able to start cycling for ~2 weeks or so, though by the time i buy stuff on amazon, etc thats probably a decent timetable.
This light was suggested to me by another user. Should be sufficient for growing plants in a low tech system, right?
Ive seen various numbers for how 'oversized' a filter should be. Right now im kinda looking at these two (1) (2). Any comments on brand? It looks like i can get either one in bigger/smaller sizes. 400gph seems like it might be a bit overkill...but is 250 too low?
Ive read that often the agitation in the surface water by the filter is enough to provide sufficient gasses to the plants/fish...do you think that ill be true in a low tech tank? Would an aerator help? I dont think i'll mind having bubbles coming up in the background if it will, but am i overthinking this?
I wish i had saved more links on substrate and sand and all. Any recommendations for substrate for plants? Would probably like black stuff. I think this is the one i had read about being good?
Thinking about doing a bit of gravel in the tank, but i'd also like to do some sand. Maybe something like 2/3 sand (maybe a couple different types?) and then the rest gravel? Thoughts/concerns?
I thought i had read somewhere that people often use blasting sand (rinsed well)....anyone have comments on that? I could probably get some for cheap from work, though im not sure i want dark sand...
Best place to get a larger piece of driftwood? Ive looked around online a bit and have seen a ton of different sites and whatever, but was wondering if anyone had a suggestion for where to go. Im probably going to want one big piece, and then i can get smaller pieces from wherever.
I assume when im doing water changes and stuff im going to want to bypass our water softener? Our water is supposed to be pretty hard, do i want to maybe mix softened with unsoftened? (ive seen a lot of stuff about adding minerals to pure RO water, but havent seen much on softeners)
Im sure ill think of more, but this should at least be a good start...
Edit: Best place to get rocks and stuff? I'd like a couple for a natural look, im just not sure where to get them. I could get some red granite around here, but im not sure how that'd work, and it seems like it'd be really heavy...?
I run a dual setup in my 40 gallon long tank; a canister alongside a HOB. I love this setup and recommend it to anyone for larger tanks. It gives you the large size of the canister filter for a good amount of bio media, but you also have the HOB to add any small little things you need to for the tank. For example, in my HOB, I run filter floss, foam, and purigen. While in my canister I run bio balls, foam, and PhosGuard. Oh and I should mention that the HOB I use is an AquaClear 50, and the canister is an Eheim Classic 2215.
Specs on those:
Eheim:
164 GPH
Total Filter volume of 1.1 Gallons
Rated for tanks up to 92 US Gallons
AquaClear
200 GPH max (depends on how much filter media is inside)
Rated for tanks up to 50 gallons
I just recently purchased a 125 gallon tank and am slowly building up all the stuff to get it set up. I am looking at filters now and was looking for advice. I plan on planting it pretty heavily and stocking it with some big fish like black knife ghost fish, some catfish, and arrowana (knowing i will upgrade the size of the tank) I was looking at possibly doing an aquaclear. The 110 seems like its slightly too small for my tank which brings me to my question. would it be better to use 2 aquaclear 70 or 3 aquaclear 50 to make up for the size? are there some nice canister that would look and function better than multiple aquaclears? Thanks.
Sure! We love multis and I love telling people about them :) We live in Missouri so we have hard water, I don't have a test kit for the water hardness but it's high. Our water comes out of the tap at a ph of 8 so basically our water was MADE for africans!!
Their tank is kept around 78 degrees, no fancy lights, just a basic 20L with hood and light from Petsmart. The substrate is CaribSea for African Cichlids in black. Look for it on special at your local big box store. I think we got our 20lb bag for $4 or something. We use an african cichlid mix for their water here is a good article with a mix like we use. We also use Rift Lake Vital for the trace elements they need. We do 50% water changes on the tank weekly (and you have to make the mix for each water change of course).
We feed them Omega One Flakes, a few shrimp pellets, sometimes color bits to mix it up. They are very clean fish and keep their territories clean. Usually there will be two or three places in the tank where the waste seems to congregate, either they are putting waste bits of snail shells, food etc. there or it is naturally being swept their by the filter, an Aquaclear 50.
The fish are kind of hard to find so ask around. Usually people who have them have a colony going for years. My independent LFS has had them a couple of times (and asked $15.99 each!!). We bought them at the auction for about $3 each if I recall and the other six were given to us by the same guy.
I'd recommend the 50, at least. If you're keeping guppies still, the current won't wear them out. All of them are adjustable flow, so you can just turn it down if need be.
https://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-50-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FUM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1479866479&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=aquaclear+50
Of course, bigger is always better, in case you upgrade to a bigger tank in the future.
I have this filter on it right now. I could probably get away without it though. I just have it for looks. I like the water flow, and it clears up the water quickly after a trimming session.
Thanks! I forgot to mention how much I love serpae tetra as well and hope to include them.
Any suggestions for a hood? This Marineland LED has some questionable reviews but I'm having trouble finding suitable alternatives.
Looks like the Aquaclear HOB would be a little large for the hole in that particular hood (6.5" pre-cut hole and the filter says 7") but I'm not afraid to cut it to make it larger. I suppose if I get a submersible heater there's no other equipment that would require additional holes hole to be cut into the hood, right?
Any heater preferences?:
Fluval
Aqueon
Eheim
I have this on my 10 gallon planted beta tank and like it a lot. if you want a hang on back this is supposed to be the best
I have the first two filters. I would not recommend either. The sponge filter is not big enough to fit an air stone inside, which is a must, and the tetra filter just was too loud and had bubbles continuously flowing out the top. I would look into these two:
http://www.amazon.com/Finnex-PX-360-Compact-Canister-Aquarium/dp/B002VFF8U4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463179411&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=finnex+px-360
http://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-20-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FVG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463179477&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=aquaclear+20
Aquaclear 20
Replace the carbon with Purigen and you're good to go.
I'm sure I'll get something better. I've heard lots of positive about this one
http://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-20-Power-Filter-Includes/dp/B000260FVG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1406499945&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=aquaclear+20
This filter will filter up to 100 gph, which covers the minimum requirement of 10x the tank capacity (if you turn it all the way up and make sure it is never clogged) and is cheap. I use Aquaclear filters in both of my tanks and love them. Do not use the carbon insert unless you need to remove medication from the water. Instead get another little sack of biomedia to put in there for the beneficial bacteria to live in.
That said, please get your fish a larger tank with proper filtration as soon as possible.
https://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-20-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FVG/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
Media is the stuffthat is inside the filter, most filters have cartridges that need to be replaced, but replacing them will kill your cycle and harm your fish, maybe even kill them. Try to get this https://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-20-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FVG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1517896693&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=aquaclear+mini
When you need to clean it just squeeze out the spong in tank water and replace it.
Had the same tank a few years ago and the filter it comes with is realy shit...
I have choosen this one and was realy happy with it! Good power and easy to clean or to stock with other materials.
AquaClear 20 Power Filter https://www.amazon.de/dp/B000260FVG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_z3gEzb9DD6XDR
My dad also has one of these for his tank, also happy with it.
Edit: and this one is nearly noisless i found.
It probably is a translation error from the manufacturer. If you have ever read their manuals, it can get pretty funny with the translations. I would recommend looking for something that has a 20 gph rate max for a tank that small. Perhaps a HOB would be better. My smallest tank of all time was a 5 and I ran this on it. http://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-20-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FVG/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458025569&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=aquaclear+20 . Hope this might give you an idea!
Hey this isn't. ...THE bamabass is it ?
Question though I just started a 10g it's been running for about a week initially I put the start zyme in it, yesterday I upgraded to a new filter and today my buddy gave me a 16oz bottle of his trap water ( cant remember the correct terminology for it ) all dark brown good nutrients... he says I can start adding afew fish pretty much the next day since my filter has the good good in it now lol is that true or should I wait
New filter
AquaClear 20 Power Filter - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000260FVG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YO55Bb855P1A0
Aqua Clear - Fish Tank Filter - 5 to 20 Gallons - 110v https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000260FVG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dJ6YCbM4JBRTJ
Thanks for all the information. I will look for an external canister. You're right about it being a hang-on-back filter, for the record it's this one: https://www.amazon.ca/AquaClear-20-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FVG
A tetra whisper pump is near silent, taking out the worries about sound. High gas exchange is very, very important in an aquarium, it vents toxic gasses and adds oxygen into the tank. Not having a good method of airation is going to harm the fish/decrease their lifespan. Ideally you should only take 25% out between vaccuming and water changes combined, usually doing both at the same time once a week to not disturb the bacteria in the gravel too badly. Unfortunately bio wheels are a gimmick with only margianally better performance than normal cartridge based filters, and are also more of a new fishkeeper trap than anything, why you don't see experienced fishkeepers use them.
Imo an aquaclear a size up from your tank size (eg 10 gal tank get an aq 20) is the best option for a beginner, and has the best price to performance ratio https://www.amazon.com/Aqua-Clear-Power-Filter-AquaClear/dp/B000260FVG?keywords=aquaclear%2Bfilter&amp;qid=1535933485&amp;sr=8-3&amp;ref=mp_s_a_1_3&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1 , unless you want to go into sponge filters, which are perfectly fine if properly sized (size up) and the bio load for the tank is low.
And for this filter, would I also need an air pump? I know I sound incompetent but I promise I'm not!!! Just trying to cover all my bases!
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https://www.amazon.com/Aqua-Clear-Power-Filter-AquaClear/dp/B000260FVG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1536260246&sr=8-2&keywords=aquaclear%2Bfilter&th=1
Sand is pretty easy tbh. You shouldn’t have to worry about it blowing around, a betta tank shouldn’t have that strong of a flow. Sponge filter is the easiest option. If you want a HOB filter, put foam around the intake for a [mechanical prefilter and betta fin guard](LTWHOME Pre-Filter Sponge/Foam Set For Fluval Edge Aquarium (Pack Of 12) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J5Z44OE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_aIsNBbGW56V4D)
Just get a HOB rated at 10g or less and that has adjustable flow so you can turn it down. [Aquaclear](Aqua Clear 20 Power Filter - 110 V, UL Listed (Includes AquaClear 20 Carbon, AquaClear 20 Foam & AquaClear 20 BioMax) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000260FVG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RKsNBbY81XP7A) and [Azoo Mignon 150 or 360](Azoo Mignon Filter 360 Aquarium Power Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LLJ8OFW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BOsNBbVM2B6ZN)
First you want an aquarium. I suggest a 20 gal (long if possible). Craigslist.com can be a good resource. I managed to find a good deal on a pair of 30 gal tanks. I paid $40 for the pair so hopefully you can find a 20 gallon for close to $20. It takes some patience waiting for a deal like that to pop up. You likely will end up spending closer to $40 for a 20 gallon.
You don't need a heater right away but you can pick up a 100watt heater for $10 on Amazon.
Next you'll want filter. I suggest a "Hang On Back" filter. This one is about $23.
So my estimate puts you near $75. Put the rest of your budget towards lights, water test kits, substrate, plants, and fish.
I'm using the
Tetra Whisper PF10 Filter and it's absolutely silent.
I was recommended this AquaClear one also! In hindsight, the clear would have looked a lot better.
Oh, by all means if you can afford it then it is the right choice. I would buy it too haha.
About the filter, I think you should get an aquaclear 20 instead of the whisper http://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-20-Power-Filter-Includes/dp/B000260FVG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1417926609&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=aquaclear+20
As you can see, it has a higher flow rate and a lot more mechanical as well as biological filtration. You don't have to buy and replace filter cartridges.
link
AquaClears are some of the nicest HOB filters. They don't use filter pads, but are set up more like a canister filter. Adjustable flow, so you can slow it down if it's too much.
Edit: Just my preference. I tried one of those internal filters, but I didn't like having it take up space in my already small tank.
Setting up a saltwater aquarium is going to depend primarily on your budget and your space. These things will dictate what sort of filtration methodology you have to use. Filtration is the most important part of your aquarium! It comes in many different flavours, but the big three are biological, mechanical, and chemical. Your 'filtration method' is determined by how heavily you lean on each of these aspects. There are a bunch of different schools of thought and I would recommend reading up on as many of them as possible. Here is an excellent short article to get you started.
New tanks need to establish beneficial bacterial communities in order to process the waste being produced by your fish. In the jargon, this is called 'cycling', in reference to the nitrogen cycle. You can find more information on that in the sidebar (to the right) here on /r/Aquariums. Establishing this bacterial community ('cycling the tank') is crucial before you add any animals to the tank in order to avoid harm. It takes some time (up to several weeks or more) so be warned that patience is a virtue when it comes to aquariums.
To oversimplify it, starting a saltwater tank is as simple as putting sand and live rock in saltwater and letting it cycle. But why it's that simple is extremely complicated. I would suggest reading more on aquarium filtration and go from there, then throw some more questions at us. For homework! Look at the components sold in a standard commercial hang-on filter and figure out what each one is doing.
I'm going to look into getting a prefilter sponge for the one i have and maybe order this filter as i found it highly recommended an a few other sites. Figure he could live with the kit one for a few days. Think I may get at least 1 live plant as well, being a 5 gallon I dont have much room to work with, so it shouldnt be too hard to manage, Thanks!
I think you did okay, but I personally just rinse a tank with diluted bleach, thoroughly rinse then air dry the tank upside down in a dry place for over 24 hours. This ensures all the bleach has fully evaporated before I use it. If it had calcium build up, I'd use vinegar, baking soda and pillow stuffing to scrub it off (harder stains I usually get a paint scraper to get off and get the smaller stains with my homemade cleaner).
Aquaclear filter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000260FVG/ref=twister_B00MO35VD2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I love these filters. They're beginner friendly, decent price and adjustable flow-- my betta loves his. I recommend just using pillow stuffing (ensure it's not the kind that is fire proof since that has harmful chemicals). Give it monthly, harsh shakes in old filter water to get junk out and put it back in the filter to keep nitrates down in your filter (of course along with weekly water changes). I picked up the pillow stuffing trick from a guy in the hobby for over 40 years. I've been using pillow stuffing for a few months and it's been going great so far :D
I was hoping Ny bc I would've taken him from you and put him in my hospital tank.
A vase is not a tank and a filter is recommended bc a tank needs to be cycled.Cycling is when it can sustain the nitrogen cycle using bacteria that lives inside your tank and your filter. Having a suitable tank, gravel and filter allows the tank to provide a stable environment for your fish.
The setup I recommend is
a 5.5 gallon tank from your local petstore. Petsmart or petco usually has them. If you can get a bigger one then I would suggest that.
The filter i recommend is either an aqua clear hang on back filter like this http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000260FVG/ref=twister_B00MO35VD2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
or a Im pretty fond of these filters also, http://www.amazon.com/Penn-Cascade-Internal-Filter-Aquariums/dp/B0002DJLEQ/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1450977072&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=penn+plax
Get a filter that is rated for a tank 1-2 times the size of the tank you would purchase.
I can't recommend a low cost heater but I do recommend you get one and also a thermometer.
Pick up a bag of gravel and maybe a little decorative house also for your fish to hang around and swim in. Providing a stimulating environment for your fish will combat him being "lazy."
I also suggest you read up on the nitrogen cycle and pick up a test kit so the next time you have an issue with your fish, you can tell anyone what the ammonia, nitrate or nitrite levels are in the tank. You can find out what those are from reading about the nitrogen cycle. I suggest this http://www.amazon.com/API-Freshwater-Master-Test-Kit/dp/B000255NCI/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1450977370&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=aquarium+test+kit
Read more about properly taking care of you betta and you will see less of these problems and have happier fish. Feel free to ask any questions
The cheapest way to do things is much more reliant on Amazon than Petsmart or Petco.
Substrate: Pool Filter Sand from a pool supply store. You can get 20-40lbs of this for under $10 compared to roughly $1 for 1lb that pet store gravel/sand costs. It's also prewashed, which is nice. You can go with a special planted substrate, but for the most part you can get the same benefits by just dosing ferts or using root tabs. The one exception is if you are willing to spend more to get a clay based substrate like ADA Aquasoil or Fluval Stratum, which are much more expensive (the cheap alternative to that is to use the Walstad method of using dirt on the bottom and capping it with sand). A sand layer should be about 3" max. More than that and you could start developing anaerobic pockets.
Filtration: Air Pump Sponge Filters. I'd recommend getting two of these and placing one on each side but you can get by with one. I recommend the Walmart Aqua Culture 60 Gallon Air Pump to run them. It only costs $11 and surprisingly this Wal-Mart brand pump is the quietest air pump I've ever used -- much quieter than anything else I've tried. However you can go with any air pump you can find at Petco or Petsmart but they will cost more. You can rinse sponge filters out with old aquarium water when you do a water change, which saves you money in the long run vs. buying cartridges for a hang-on-back box style filter. However if you want to go with a box filter, I'd recommend AquaClear. They may be available at Petco or Petsmart, but likely at a higher price than amazon.
Heater: Aquatop Heaters from Amazon. For a 10G you only need the 50W, but for only $1.50 more you might as well get the 200W version so that if you ever upgrade you don't have to buy another. Since this line of heater has adjustable temperature and will turn off when the water is heated, it doesn't matter if you overbuy on heating. You can get other brands at Petco or Petsmart, but you'll probably be paying more for less.
Lighting: If you are going low tech, you should probably just buy a tank that comes with a hood and light (but avoid the full kit that comes filter/heater/etc. because you can get all of that cheaper separately). Hoods with matching lighting are really hard to get after the fact. If you go high tech, this sort of lighting is inadequate so you'd want to go a different route.
wow that looks so clean! you might have just changed my mind lol
do you have any filters or lights in mind to go with it? amazon recommends https://www.amazon.com/Finnex-FugeRay-Aquarium-Moonlights-Cliplight/dp/B00LIL7YPE/ref=pd_bxgy_121_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B00LIL7YPE&amp;pd_rd_r=2KZ9F8JF4YE057DP8TPJ&amp;pd_rd_w=eCyLL&amp;pd_rd_wg=se06G&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=2KZ9F8JF4YE057DP8TPJ and https://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-20-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FVG/ref=pd_bxgy_121_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B000260FVG&amp;pd_rd_r=2KZ9F8JF4YE057DP8TPJ&amp;pd_rd_w=eCyLL&amp;pd_rd_wg=se06G&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=2KZ9F8JF4YE057DP8TPJ
As some others have said, that plant is Anubias. That hairy stuff is algae and the brown crud looks like diatoms which is common in new tanks. The "suckerfish" (on the underside of that leaf) you have looks to be some sort of plecostomas which don't eat really anything but certain types of green algae. They aren't algae scrubbers like the old school of thought suggests. I would suggest getting some nerite snails. They cannot breed in fresh water so you won't have explosion of them.
Also, as others have said, get a timer and start keeping your lights on a schedule. Start at 8 hours on and the rest off. You can set it to be whenever you like if you want to enjoy it so you could start it at Noon and push it to 8 pm or however you like. That will help the plants "out compete" the algae.
Finally, get a filter. I have an Aquaclear filter with a pre-filter sponge to keep shrimp out of it. This will also help disturb the surface to keep surface bacteria managed and increase gas exchange at the surface ensuring you have enough oxygen.
https://www.amazon.com/Aqua-Clear-Fish-Filter-Gallons/dp/B000260FVG/ref=sr_1_13?keywords=10+gal+filter&amp;qid=1574022869&amp;sr=8-13
this is mine works great, little on the pricier side, can get them as cheap as 10 bucks on amazon. any 10 gallon filter really. walstad is an awesome concept, just tricky getting to a stable spot
I don't know the type of filter, it came in this kit. Any reccomendations would be appreciated. Kairus00 recommended this
I'll have to let my girlfriend know I was right in regards to the plant. She'll looove that. ;)
And yes, Walmart is as bad as you hear, I do try to avoid it. Be happy you don't have them, they're a black hole on many levels.
Poor guy, I feel bad. At least I didn't kill him before I found out what I was doing wrong.
I recommend upgrading your filter. Those whisper filters are pretty crappy IMO mostly due to the cartridge system they use. Pretty much everyone loves aquaclear filters and I'm a fan of my C2.
Unless your Ph is crazy high (8+) I wouldn't mess with it. A stable Ph is more important than a "proper" Ph in most cases.
Good Luck!
It's this one
I would just get something small like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000260FVG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1465773660&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=aquaclear+20&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41Rr1kpTVOL&amp;ref=plSrch
Aquarium light
Aquarium heater
Aquarium filter
Aquarium lid
Water Conditioner
Water test kit
And then you can get the aquarium (10g) at Petco
I strongly recommend live plants: Java ferns, anubius, Marimo Moss Balls, bacopa, cryptocoryne, Valisnaria, hygrophila, easy low light plants. Malaysian, Spider (not sharp), Mopani, and manzanita are all good types of drift wood for a betta aquariums
TL;DR: For a betta you need to upgrade your setup to have a filter, and a minimum 5 gallon tank but preferably 10 gallon. I highly recommend you buy [this filter] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000260FVG/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1500346286&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=fluval%2Bfilter&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1).
1 gallon is not okay for any fish. Maybe plants. You need to read up about the nitrogen cycle, and why cycling an aquarium is necessary in order to keep water quality good. The water will build up good bacteria to counter the bad bacteria. But if you're doing 100% water changes, you are physically preventing your tank from cycling and building up any good bacteria. You really need a bigger tank (at least 5 gal but preferably 10), and you need a filter! The constant movement of the water is the filters main function, and that's what allows for good bacteria to build up. I'm sure your water parameters weren't 0/0/0 before the water change. Maybe that's what it reads after the water change, but next time check your parameters before the water change because I guarantee you that you have ammonia building up.
It's a myth that betta's are completely fine without a filter or a normal size tank. They will live a much longer life if you take better care of them. The myth comes from the fact that Betta's have an organ that other fish don't, which allows them to breathe oxygen by coming up to the surface and not having to depend on their gills alone for oxygen. This allows them to be able to tolerate worse quality water, but that doesn't mean you should subject them to worse quality water throughout the course of their life! Please improve your setup. At the absolute minimum: never do 100% water changes, 80% should be the absolute max used only for emergencies, buy a filter and you should be able to get by with 50% water changes until your tank is cycled, at which point you should aim to get down to 10-20% water changes once a week, and then down to 10-20% to once every other week.
I have this aquaclear filter. When I get RCS, should I use this trick? Or is there not much of a danger of them getting in such a small filter?
While we're talking about aquaclear fiters, (sorry to hijack a bit)
How often do I need to replace the filter media? The official instructions say basically once a month or so, that seems a bit often to me.
You'll need the sponge some airline tubing and an air pump.
Then just hook it up. Different sponge being used by same concept
Remember, you will have to do regular water changes as maintenance (I do 20% every other week). The cheapest and most economical way in the long run is:
I recommend against purchasing from the fish store, or taking it from the ocean.
Have fun! You're starting a really nice hobby :)
I use this cheap six-layer sponge filter and a Tetra Whisper air pump. There are several styles of sponge filter so it's really your preference. Round, corner, or with suction cups to stick on the side are all about the same and would be fine in a five gallon. I like the Tetra pumps because they're a good combination of cheap, quiet, and reliable. I've had the one I linked running 24/7 for over three years with no problem. You'll probably want to get a valve for the air line so you can adjust the air flow and a check valve if you put the pump lower than the aquarium.
For my setup, I’ve used The Tetra Whisper Air Pump (link at botton). You put a check valve (see 2nd link) on the end of the tube attached to the pump. On the other side of the tube you put the air stone (also in 2nd link). Th air stone goes in the water and “bubbles”, thats why we call it a “bubbler”. It has dual benefits in that it is the most effective way to humidify your tank and the movement in the water keeps it fresh for longer.
https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Whisper-Easy-Aquariums-Non-UL/dp/B0009YJ4N6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=bubbler+pump&amp;qid=1565723778&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3
https://www.amazon.com/Pawfly-Standard-Aquarium-Accessories-Connectors/dp/B07FZY71K6/ref=pd_aw_fbt_199_img_3/137-2577294-4867509?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B07FZY71K6&amp;pd_rd_r=1974bd54-ba73-425a-96f4-b27b02ebbe2f&amp;pd_rd_w=7mVYj&amp;pd_rd_wg=b8F1Q&amp;pf_rd_p=3ecc74bd-d08f-44bd-96f3-d0c2b89f563a&amp;pf_rd_r=VNHBEDMXVJNSW6SHZ0M4&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=VNHBEDMXVJNSW6SHZ0M4
I use this filter
And this pump for all of my tanks from 10gallon to a 3 gallon bowl
You already saw my other comment, but I'll add one more thing here: You might want to consider a small "sponge filter" for a 6.6 gallon tank instead of the hang-over-back filter. Most hang-over-back filters are for 10 gallons or more, so if you can't find a smaller one, just get these materials for a sponge filter:
The nice thing about sponge filters is you rarely need to clean them. I've run them for over a year without cleaning them and never had an issue. Super convenient.
so something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Tetra-77851-Whisper-Pump-10-Gallon/dp/B0009YJ4N6/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1404519448&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=air+pump
might be everything i need?
To piggyback off of Betta fish, besides the tank you can get your filter, heater, and light for pretty cheap.
Here's what I have:
filter
Air pump
light
heater
Altogether it might not be the cheapest items, but they work fantastic for me and my Betta and shrimp tank. Plus it costs less to get good filters and supplies first than it is to buy a beginner set and upgrade everything over time like I did.
this is what it all looks like in my tank.
Will this one work or should I be looking at the one rated for 20-40 gallon aquariums?
I've used these before and they aren't loud.
https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Whisper-Easy-Aquariums-Non-UL/dp/B0009YJ4N6/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1538613259&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=aquarium+pump
I have smaller aquaclears that I love, they have the advantage of being easy to clean (no cracking open a pressurized canister) so I find I do it more. I have this sunsun that I run on my winter goldfish tank that I like and you could probably get away with just one on a lower bioload community tank. Again the disadvantage of any canister is taking it apart to clean but honestly it's not that hard, especially if you aren't running it on a super high bioload fish like me so it needs to be cleaned once a week.
Weelllll...the best setup is the biggest you can afford. The bare minimum for 2 fancies would be a 40 gallon breeder, but the more space you can give them the better. If you live in the US you can get a pretty awesome discount on aquariums up to 75 gallons (varies by store) fairly often when they do "Dollar Per Gallon" sales. Petco does the most frequent DPGs but Petsmart and Pet Supplies Plus also do them. Petsmart sometimes just has heavily discounted sets also. Anyway, $40 is the least it will cost if you buy a new tank, but maybe you can find a great deal for a secondhand tank on a resale site if you prefer that route.
Filter...maybe go with a SunSun as they're quite cheap for their quality. I use this one and while the UV sterilizer is generally unnecessary I guess it might be helpful in an ich outbreak or something. It's actually slightly below the 10xph flow rate for my 55g so I supplement it with a HOB filter that I keep spare media in in case it's ever needed. For media in the canister I have sponges of varying coarseness, generic ceramic rings (for nitrifying bacteria), and Seachem Matrix (for nitrate-consuming bacteria).
The best water tester is the API Freshwater Master Test Kit. It may seem expensive at first glance, but it's actually cheaper over time - AND more accurate than strips. For water changes, since I don't have a faucet that can support a Python auto-changer, I use a pump stuck to the bottom of the bucket to push water up through spare tubing. Saves me the trouble of lifting heavy buckets or trying to gradually scoop the water out.
The best foods are New Life Spectrum, Repashy, Saki-Hikari, and if you need a cheaper option Omega One. You should also supply plenty of leafy greens; the fiber is very good for their digestive tract.
> Well, if the husband doesn't want to be Aquarium Robert Smith, just wait.
Cure reference, nice.
> The cheapest way would be to purchase a good HOB filter like an Aquaclear 70 or a fluval C5, though you can get a SunSun canister through amazon at just barely a little more. You're definitely going to want both filters on as you're cycling.
Is this one appropriate? Then to confirm, you are saying run both the 220 that we already have and the SunSun?
> Speaking of which, you've mentioned you're cycling your tank currently--what method are you using to cycle it and do you have a testing kit for your water parameters?
The tank has been filled & there are some cherry shrimp in there right now (We'll find them another home before the cichlids hit the tank.) My husband was in charge of the cycling process, but I can tell you he did some minimal reading & then winged it LOL. He put a used filter from our other tank in there for a week or so in a mesh bag, along with a decent amount of gravel from an active tank. We have since removed all of that so we could put in the sand to prepare for the cichlids. Other than that, cycling has mostly just been waiting (2-3 weeks so far). We tested for ph & ammonia. Ammonia is 0 and I don't remember what the ph was offhand (but it was within range of the cichlids I was considering at the time). We'll need to test that again anyway since we pulled the gravel & put in the sand this past weekend. I also ordered a water hardness test that hasn't arrived yet after reading that cichlids seem to like hard water.
so if i get this
http://www.amazon.com/SunSun-HW-304B-External-Canister-Sterilizer/dp/B008986EQO
ill be set?
I had a Used XP-L,, in my experience.. the best bang for your buck filter is this one..
http://www.amazon.com/SunSun-China-HW-304B-External-Canister-Sterilizer/dp/B008986EQO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449086307&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=sunsun
i one one running close to 3 years and still going strong.
I'm probably going to go with this.
I've been in the turtle game for about a year now, recently I've upgraded my 55 gallon canister filter to 150 gallon one called Sunsun HW-304B and wow has it been an improvement. Turtles need 3x the filter so if you have 55 gallon tank you're going to need one rated for 150-200 gallons which canister filters are preferred since they can last a long time without cleaning and provide better suction.
If you do go the canister filter route I would get this media kit that has everything you need to started.
As far as chemicals go I would stick with TetraFauna Aquasafe and API Sludge Destroyer, use only a little bit since that will make your water cloudy if you use too much.
To pick up food waste and whatever else get this long pole fishnet instead of those short ones that they sell at pet stores so you can get in there really deep without shoving your arm in.
Turtles also need 2 types of light UVB and heat, I found that this combo lamp works fine.
I have the three stage version of This on my 55 gallon tank. They are super cheap and get the job done quietly. The 4 stage should be plenty for 75 gal.
This is true. The only reason I ask is because the Sun Sun canisters come with a UV sterilizer in them. I guess a bucket, motor and UV light is hard to screw up. Was thinking about getting the 5 stage for my 55. the 304B
That would be the Sun sun hb-304b. Its about $100 and works really well. I have one on my other tank too.
Filter http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008986EQO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421121421&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SY200_QL40&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31fg9kdaJ9L&amp;ref=plSrch
1st level http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B50UPE0
Put this on top of the other floss http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002HBLUE
2nd level http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002Z7VAK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421121104&amp;sr=8-1
3rd level http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000R31KH2
With http://www.amazon.comgp/aw/d/B0006JLVUI inside of http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002X6F7AW put on top of the other media
4th level 2 packs of these http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NRVLIU
Here is my layout, if I were to redo it I would have made the last 3 eheim pro. For the media I would have used the floss it came with at the bottom just rip it vertically, then foam, then the fine floss.
Overall I rate it 4.5 out of 5, sometimes it is hard to prime.
Filter
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008986EQO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421121421&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SY200_QL40&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31fg9kdaJ9L&amp;ref=plSrch
1st level
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B50UPE0
Put this on top of the other floss
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002HBLUE
2nd level
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002Z7VAK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421121104&amp;sr=8-1
3rd level
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000R31KH2
With http://www.amazon.comgp/aw/d/B0006JLVUI inside of http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002X6F7AW put on top of the other media
4th level
2 packs of these http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NRVLIU
If you're still interested in trying CO2 at a lower cost, I used this.
https://www.amazon.com/DIY-CO2-Aquarium-Plant-System/dp/B008CUZJF6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484320229&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=diy+co2
You can find tons of Youtube Videos on how to set it up. You will need the above, two 2 liter bottles, a diffuser, and bubble counter. You probably also want a check valve to prevent siphoning.
You will also need to remember to turn the CO2 off each night, or to turn an air bubbler on. If too much CO2 builds up, it will kill your fish by morning.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1JzvfHO31Ug - This video explains it all!
Something like this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008CUZJF6/ref=asc_df_B008CUZJF65366434/?tag=hyprod-20&amp;creative=395033&amp;creativeASIN=B008CUZJF6&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=167116240456&amp;hvpos=1o1&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=800364960242656855&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvdev=m&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9010285&amp;hvtargid=pla-305618839130
Joey the king of diy had a YouTube video on these setups. I am about two weeks into running one. Buy baking soda for about 50 cents a pound at Walmart and I got a 10 pound bag of citric acid on Amazon for about $25.
Not OP, but I followed the guide laid out here a while back : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1JzvfHO31Ug&amp;t=76s
and the kit is available on Amazon : https://www.amazon.com/DIY-CO2-Aquarium-Plant-System/dp/B008CUZJF6
Personally, I found this to be too unreliable for me (But I was running a much larger tank). I'd imagine this would work well for smaller tanks though.
theres a super good diy set up thats super cheap. Baking soda +water then in other bottle citric acid and 3 parts water with hoses and valves built in. Let me know what you think of my list and let me know if im missing anything if you dont mind
Diffuser System
glass co2 checker
drops co2
bubble counter
The glass spiral diffuser
This is what I've got going on.
I bought this cap/hose system
This diffuser
You don't absolutely need a bubble counter but you could buy one if you want to be more precise. Also, the cap/hose thing allows for an easy and simple set up.
i used a system like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008CUZJF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_PLoOyb8PKEMAW
then something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002APX5U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_aOoOyb1YCZFSN
inline before the bubble counter to get finer control of the gas. its not made for co2 but it worked ok. I had this setup on a 3 gallon so i really had to dial it back. you might be ok with the 1 valve on a 12 gal.
Thank you very much! Should I pair that with this little kit?
https://www.amazon.com/DIY-CO2-Aquarium-Plant-System/dp/B008CUZJF6/ref=sr_1_17?keywords=diy+co2&qid=1557886690&s=gateway&sr=8-17
Reviews seem iffy, but it'd be a good way to gain experience with CO2 systems for not a lot of money.
Sorry it took me so long to respond. I've had a rough/busy week. Here is a link to the setup I purchased, minus the 2 litre bottles and chemicals. https://www.amazon.ca/ZJchao-DIY-Aquarium-Plant-System/dp/B008CUZJF6
It also contains a metal ball on the Citric Acid side with a magnet to pull it out of the liquid and stop the reaction. All of this is attached to airline tubing and then into a 3 in 1 glass diffuser with a ceramic plate.
My aquarium is a 30g community tank. Cardinal and Rummynose Tetras, Harlequin Rasboras, an EBR and a GBR. Also lots of live plants.
this video pretty much explains it I bought everything I needed from Amazon & big Al's
[diy system](ZJchao DIY CO2 Aquarium Plant System https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B008CUZJF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4JwzybTHT4HK9)
Citric acid I bought from Amazon and baking soda was from grocery store
[3 in 1 diffuser, bubble counter, check valve. I live in Canada I bought it from Big Al's](Tropica CO2 Diffuser (3-in-1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017EHHWKC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SMwzybE3D2YMT)
[co2 drop checker](Fluval CO2 Indicator Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0052M9886/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_sQwzyb6Z9EGKE)
I've read about ppl saying to be careful not to tip over the bottles so I just cut 2 holes in a box to make sure the bottles didn't fall
I've been considering setting up a DIY Co2 system. Would something like this be a good place to start? http://www.amazon.com/DIY-CO2-Aquarium-Plant-System/dp/B008CUZJF6/ref=pd_sim_199_2?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=511Ek4woPxL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=0BC8SD6AFR3HPD5WDBZA
Couple of ways. There is the yeast/sugar and baking soda/citric acid. I find the baking soda way to be more reliable. You will need 2 2l liter bottles and i would buy the diy co2 kit that is super awesome. Also diffuser and bubble counter. I run my tank with 2-3 bubs.
DIY CO2 Aquarium Plant System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008CUZJF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.OxgybV71V35P heres a link!
Why not try DIY CO2. I bought one of these for a low tech tank and it works very well. The gauge doesnt work but it doesnt need to. For some reason the instructions show a tube going down into the liquid of the main reactor but that doesnt make sense and you should just pull it off. Mine is still producing CO2 3-4 weeks after i initially set it up.
I use this one. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B008CUZJF6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Wow. Some people!
If you go down the DIY route I recommend Citric acid & bicarb instead of yeast. Much, much more reliable and tunable.
I use this:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B008CUZJF6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
With an upgraded needle valve (a must):
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00PBDQJK6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
looks like "melt"
I advice a simple DIY CO2... seeing what my plants did after struggling for ages is wonderful.
just need a few cheap amazon parts to order and sugar, bit of baking soda yeast and a cpl old lemonade bottles.
You'd be golden and hitting your head why you didn't do this before.
Oh sorry!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008CUZJF6/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza
I actually ordered everything individually from Amazon. I’m sure you could probably find everything locally as well but it was easier for a newbie like me to get it all from the same place.
Aluminum CO2 Paintball Tank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0008G2WAW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_J3vBDbY97P8E0 - $22 ( + $5 to fill with CO2)
Aquarium CO2 Regulator with... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F7P8TL3?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share - $53
AQUATEK CO2 Paintball Tank CGA... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004M49QDC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share - $12
aFe Power Magnum FORCE 54-11473... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N36MAO4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share - $18
AQUATEK CO2-Proof Tubing 16 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008UCOFJW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_z6vBDbMW07193 - $8
Century 24 Hour Plug-in... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVFF59S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share - $9
Aquarium Carbon Dioxide CO2... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C9DGXV0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share - $11
Total: $148
Again, total newbie and this is the bare minimum of quality and price I was comfortable with. I plan on upgrading to a bigger tank and a better regulator in a few months. Do your own research too.
http://i.imgur.com/kujrMR6.jpg
2.5 gallon
Fauna: 4x White Cloud Minnow
Flora: Hemianthus Callitrichoides
Cryptocoryne Parva
Marimo Moss
Unknown plant in the back. Trying to find something to fill in the back.
Driftwood: Manzanita
Equipment: Beamswork 12" LED
Deep Blue Biomaxx Nano Filter
Rhinox Glass Drop Checker
Rhinox 1000 Glass Diffuser
Empire Paintball 24oz. CO2 tank
AquaTek Mini CO2 Regulator
AquaTek CO2 Tubing
DIY Teabag + Activated Carbon filter
Plug Timer
Dosing: 0.5 mL/day Flourish Excel
0.5mL/week Flourish Comprehensive
CO2: 8 hours, Light: 8 hours, offset 30 minutes.
Here is the desktop version of your link
I use this: http://www.amazon.com/AQUATEK-CO2-Proof-Tubing-16-Feet/dp/B008UCOFJW
It's pretty good- I've done research and can't figure out which tubing is the best otherwise (like what can be picked up from a hardware store)
I would go with this.
It is specifically designed to transport co2 and won't grow brittle or fail over time like many other tubing will, including silicone which is the kind you are buying. Silicone also has fairly high co2 permeability, which makes it at least a wasteful choice in terms of tubing.
Awesome! Does this tubing look better?
Thanks for your feedback!
I also bought these but not sure if required: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008UCOFJW/ https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005C76W4Y/
Well the DIY setup is definitely not dangerous. It's just pressurized gas in a 2 liter soda bottle. Worst case scenario, it explodes and makes a really loud sound, and gets vinegar all over your room.
And yes, those are almost the only three products you'll need. You will also need a basic electric timer for like six bucks, and some rubber tubing for the CO2.
Edit: Link to some tubing
I got these three things.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008TJCPSY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1414104173&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SY200_QL40
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004MFGRLA/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1414104269&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SY200_QL40
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008UCOFJW/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr1_1?qid=1414104332&amp;sr=8-1-fkmr1&amp;pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
I am quite happy with the following (I use on a 10 gallon and a 3 gallon at the same time using a T-fitting and two diffusers and two indicators):
Diffuser @$16.99 ea https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXFUGE5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This diffuser is good for hanging on the side of your tank. There are many others to choose from.
7 day timer @$14.65 (Three prong plug for regulator solenoid): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006LYHEHG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
You DO NOT want to let it run overnight because they say it will suffocate your fish.
CO2 indicator @#17.89 (need one for each tank) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Z9KWTHS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
CO2 proof tubing @#9.99 (regular tubing may leak CO2!) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008UCOFJW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Regulator with bubble counter and solenoid @$69.99 (Yes, this one works great at that price) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N42JPDV/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Adaptor fitting to get regulator attached to a paintball tank @$9.90 (I had to modify this part, so pay attention): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I2UMZ2Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Paintball tank @$21.49 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007XKFQCM/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Dicks Sporting Goods will refill for $5 using your tank.
The issue with the adaptor is that the one I got had a bleed-off relief hole too far down in the threads such that the hole was exposed even when the tank was fully screwed in because the thread depth on the tank was shallow (fewer turns total) compared to the adaptor, Had to plug and re-drill the hole.
You should at least look at these components as part of your evaluation.
https://www.amazon.com/Aquatic-Life-Reverse-Osmosis-50-Gallon/dp/B00DOG63OY
It's gone up a little since I purchased. Little creative home depot, I used garden hose splitter and tapped off my washer. The discharge ran into sump pit. I bought the extra float valve kit and let it fill a 5 gal bucket at a time that has a drain nozzle I drilled into the bottom. Works pretty well.
One of the first results when using Amazon is this.
Personally I use and can recommend the Dennerle RO system, but I don‘t think they‘re available outside germany.
Just FYI, you can pick up an RO Buddy three stage and a DI canister for the grand total of around $85 on Amazon.
Steer clear of tap water, even with the conditioner. As I previously posted elsewhere in this thread, tap water carries with it stuff that we don't care about, but our tanks do, like free silicates or cyano.
I got RO Buddie on Amazon. I hook it up in the shower and use 5 gallon water bottles I found at Walmart. It's really amazing how clean the water is! As I have mostly bettas and tetras I remineralize by mixing with my tap water.
https://www.amazon.com/Aquatic-Life-Reverse-Osmosis-50-Gallon/dp/B00DOG63OY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1519119901&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ro+buddie
You will want this. Tap water you say? That is the likely culprit. So you will need this, and this. After this your troubles should be gone.
There's actually this which I'm really thinking of!
Your link didn't come through for some reason, but this looks reasonable (~$100):
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G8GNWRY
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EDIT: actually this one is cheaper and will probably work fine (has decent reviews): https://www.amazon.com/Aquatic-Life-Reverse-Osmosis-50-Gallon/dp/B00DOG63OY
I'm using an RO Buddie purchased from Amazon for $52 > https://www.amazon.com/Aquatic-Life-Reverse-Osmosis-50-Gallon/dp/B00DOG63OY/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=RO+Buddie&amp;qid=1558694883&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-1
This works well for my needs.
I use it for my plants, have been getting ~4g every 3-4 days for a year and a half.
Aquatic Life RO Buddie Three Stage Reverse Osmosis, 50-Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DOG63OY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_R-YWBbBYBWAKF
It’s like this one but 4 stages. It says 50 gallons but it’ll definitely function properly longer than that.
I got mine for about $160 I believe. Mine included the PH+ mineralization stage. This one in link doesn’t have that but I guess price might of went up. Either way there’s one I see for $50. Get that one... at end of the day it’s gonna be much more cleaner than any other home filter and you probably won’t need the mineral stage
Reviews look good:
Aquatic Life RO Buddie Three Stage Reverse Osmosis, 50-Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DOG63OY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LWjvCbAV91QC1
APEC Top Tier Alkaline Mineral pH+ 75 GPD 6-Stage Ultra Safe Reverse Osmosis Drinking Water Filter System (ESSENCE ROES-PH75) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NWZ1RCK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fXjvCbJNVNDBP
I'm looking at these two RO systems. Should I pay extra for the four stage model at the cost of half the GPD?
4 stage 50 gpd includes deionization filter
3 stage 100 gpd
https://www.amazon.com/Aquatic-Life-Reverse-Osmosis-50-Gallon/dp/B00DOG63OY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1500572872&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=RO+buddie
I personally use this. After a year of use (I average 2-3 gallons a day, including the water I drink), I measure 5-6 ppm on my TDS meter, so well within range still.
I had issues for years with my tap water being around 500ppm from the tap, always caused weird deficiencies and growth. I bought one of these on Amazon for $50
Aquatic Life RO Buddie Three Stage Reverse Osmosis, 50-Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DOG63OY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JwCUCb7AP4JMR
Works great, been pulling the ppm down to 10 now for over a year on the original filters, takes about 4 hours to produce 5 gallons. I have mine draining into my laundry drain with the hose ran to a nearby shower to fill buckets up with.
Ah, it's actually a little more than $50.
https://www.amazon.com/Aquatic-Life-Reverse-Osmosis-50-Gallon/dp/B00DOG63OY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480457897&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ro+buddie
This is a common one saltwater people like to buy. That's the cheapest one I know of that people recommend a lot. (I don't have this one.)
Keep in mind that you can drink RO water as well, and many people buy RO water systems not for fish but for drinking.
Don't use water conditioner. There is lots of other nasty stuff in your tap water other than chlorine. This is the ro unit I have. Get an auto shutoff and the di add-on.
http://www.amazon.com/Aquatic-Life-Reverse-Osmosis-50-Gallon/dp/B00DOG63OY
If you buy one off craigslist you will probably need a new ro membrane (they must be stored properly when not being used over a month) and pre filters which will run up the cost.
Yea, I ran into the same thing. Tons of different prices everywhere depending on what you want to get. I highly recommend this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DOG63OY/ref=twister_B00DV4370M?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1. Great deal for the price and a lot of us over on the subreddit use it with great success. If you're looking for more help, you should come join us over on the Discord channel at https://discord.gg/kAdFSu5. There are tons of us over there and we're more than happy to help with anything we can.
Here's the cheapest RO unit I could find. Reviews all seem to be positive too.
Whoops, looks like it was $8, not $6.
VicTsing 80 GPH (300L/H) Submersible Water Pump For Pond, Aquarium, Fish Tank Fountain Water Pump Hydroponics with 4.9ft (1.5m) Power Cord
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EWENKXO/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_CfhtxbP9RFST9
It is a little workhorse. I've clogged it up twice (once because I didn't think to cover the intake with foam in my pond, the second time because I had moved it to my cat fountain and my kid dumped dog food in the water) and both times I just unplugged it, rinsed it thoroughly under a cold faucet, and it ran fine.
I'd like to put a small pump like this one into a standard small plastic basin like that.
The basin will be filled by rain water.
When there is enough water in the basin, I'd like the pump to start and transfer the water in a tank.
I didn't find so far any cheap way of controlling the pump. And any pump with the sensor included is way too big and too expensive.
Would you have any suggestion?
I made one using a tiny pump from amazon. Just spliced it and added the float switch. Ran it for a year with no issues.
VicTsing 80 GPH (300L/H, 4W) Submersible Water Pump For Pond, Aquarium, Fish Tank Fountain Water Pump Hydroponics with 5.9ft (1.8M) Power Cord https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EWENKXO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_M5A1BbD308WAX
I found heating things up can be done relatively cheaply, but cooling down can be more expensive. For heating above ambient I have used an Ice Cube cooler with an aquarium heater. You can get by using the temperature controller on the heater, but eventually you'll want to invest in a proper thermostat like the Inkbird. Put the carboy in the cooler, put in water and set the heater. As long as ambient temperature is lower than your target temperature this will keep it nice and steady. The additional water will be enough thermal mass to prevent any rapid temperature changes. I also eventually bought a cheap aquarium pump to keep the water circulating so there aren't hot spots.
If you want to reduce the flow I recommend buying this pump:
https://www.amazon.ca/VicTsing-Submersible-Aquarium-Fountain-Hydroponics/dp/B00EWENKXO
With this pump you can reduce the flow to whatever you want, and it works pretty well too, doesnt take up any space and is actually smaller than the one you get with the aquarium. The tube fits perfectly and connects perfectly to the pump the only issue is that it hangs slightly because the tubing isnt long enough.
Using sponges to reduce the flow can create more bacteria surfaces which is good but... It takes up a bunch of space and is a pain to deal with if it ever floats off. You also cant adjust the flow perfectly like you can with the pump.
There are people who recommend poking holes in the hose, in my opinion this is the worst thing you can do. It messes with the circulation and ruins the hose, you'll end up having to pay for a new hose if you ever get new fish that like the flow. So in my opinion getting a cheap pump like this is way better than using sponges or poking holes.
I got this one: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00EWENKXO/ref=pe_386430_126088100_TE_item
I figure between this and the pump it should be enough.
I'm not that sure where to find guides. There are a lot of premade kits available, check amazon or home depot or similar stores. You can purchase the individual parts or just purchase a kit.
Here is a typical water pump, this one is the smallest and cheapest I can find on Amazon, or close to, as it takes very little flow to supply the drippers. Don't let them run dry though, reservoir should always have water in it.
I currently use this bad boy to split from 1/2 inch hose from a water pump to the thinner spaghetti hose, I think it's 1/4 inch, that leads to the drippers. The trick to using this manifold is finding a fitting to go from 1/2 inch hose from the pump to the required thread for the manifold, which is garden hose size. I use a totally standard 1/2 inch threaded fitting that is stocked at all my local hardware stores. You can adjust flow on the manifold but I prefer not to, just leave it and let the drippers modulate flow.
Instead of a manifold, you could also find some way to go right to spaghetti tubing from the pump, and just run one master line to all the plants, and use a tee for each dripper.
You could also run the 1/2 inch supply line as your master line and puncture a hole in it with this or this and just use a little fitting like this to run the spaghetti hose to each dripper/plant, but I feel like these connections are prone to leaking. It is a very popular way of setting up drip systems though. With less than very many plants I would go with a manifold or spaghetti hose with tees.
I like this style of dripper because it sends a consistent amount of water to the plants and I adjust volume by setting an electronic timer (24 hr/7 day timer) to run the right amount of minutes per day, the amount of times I want. Math is nice.
So basically parts list can fluctuate pretty heavily depending on how you want to do it.
I may actually improve on the design a bit and add a small circulating water pump like this, though I may have to think about this design a bit since I'm not sure that the pump will like the warmer water it would be dealing with..
It sounds like your talking about the budget glass vacuum distillation units found on ebay/amazon. If so, these may work for your needs but more info is needed. If you intend to distill/recover the ethanol and make a concentrate like shatter or wax then a budget glass distillation kit like this may be what your looking for. It would also need a heating mantle of the appropriate size($60-120), a small water pump like this, some krytox ptfe glass joint grease(gpl 205 works well), and a vacuum pump. Something like this for $50 would work but would require an oil change nearly every other run due to ethanol contamination, a ethanol compatible diaphram pump would be preferable but much more costly. A used savant gp-110 is what i use and can be found on ebay for about $150(do not re-use ethanol that passes through a used pump). For long runs I add a small desktop fan in front of it to keep it cool.
Vacuum distillation is necessary for Shatter/Wax consistancy because without the vacuum, open air distillation will decarb the THC-A to THC and leave you with a sappy product. If you intend to make THC distillate, a shortpath setup will allow you to just distill the ethanol fraction and make distillate from your remaining product. It will also require pretty much the same accessories as the vacuum reflux distllation kit I listed. The only big difference from a short path vs reflux kit (which I prefer for ethanol recovery) is the added reflux portion which will help you maintain your ethanol's proof a bit better. Also the vacuum pump for a distillate shortpath setup needs to pull a lower vacuum rating than either of the pumps I mentioned, and will typically be one of the priciest components in this setup.
What size of pump is needed? I'm thinking this might do the job. Will probably need to suck the air to start it but after that it might work.
LIST POST:
|/u/Dent7777|Shady Angel Investor|Total|Strictly Necessary Costs
:--|:--|:--|:--|:--
|318.366|212.244|530.61|385.44
|Item|Price|Link|
possible to replace or modify|32G Wheeled Trash Can|20|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071CZ4BWD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1|
fabric bags also work|Air-Pruning Pot|13.98|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BFISHS2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1|
|Mylar Blankets|6.69|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GLCYR5S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1|
NSN|Velcro tape|16.49|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B007OXK330/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1|
|Plant Ties|7.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071CZ4BWD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1|
|Happy Frog Soil|11.95|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01508YKY8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1|
|FoxFarm Trio|33.95|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D93NIFY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1|
|Fem Blue Dream Seed|23.68|https://www.seedsupreme.com/blue-dream-feminized-seeds-20604.html|
|2 Free Fem Seeds|0| |
|pH control & testing kit|18.5|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BNKWZY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1|
not strictly necessary (NSN)|Submersible pump|7.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EWENKXO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1|
NSN|2Liter bladder|12.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B075RWCXWZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1|
NSN|Clear Tubing|7.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W6W10TK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1|
NSN|tubing switch|7.95|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L45TLPK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1|
NSN|Funnel|10.96|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OKXZL8O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1|
|Humidity & Temp Sensor|12.82|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013BKDO8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1|
NSN|Rechargeable AAs|13.8|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JHKSN76/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1|
|Inline Fan|17.95|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CQBFOTS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1|
|Carbon filter|33.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CJ5D4AG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1|
|Ducting hose|10.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B076S6KHB4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1|
|ArcMyn Vent|14.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0793HH4GD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1|
|Axial Fan|11.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B009OWRMZ6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1|
NSN|Fan Speed controller|17.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B6VV6GL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1|
|HGL 100w|149|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C59J8L2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1|
NSN|Smart Power Strip|32.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C1ZSCYV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1|
may keep for lights, might get rid of it.|Light Timer|12.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MVF16JG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1|
True. And in total nerd fashion, I dropped one of these in the bath too. Not sure it made any real difference, but it made me feel like I had a "real" immersion circulatior. ;)
Wired this pump to this controller as per the wiring diagram it came with. Very straight forward.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B01IBK9I12/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498065211&amp;sr=8-7&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=inkbird&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=414FQKzu0QL&amp;ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00EWENKXO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498065289&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=Aquarium+pump&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41%2Bn%2BaJtwfL&amp;ref=plSrch
I'm using this and this in a turkey roaster. Unless you really need the WiFi component, that controller seems a little high.
So, I ended up buying [this] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EWENKXO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) on amazon. Used it on Sunday brewing a saison. While it worked as I planned. It did not push enough water though and ended up taking about an hour to chill my 6 gals of wort. So I didn't save any time... yet. The one I purchases was 80 GPH, I see that OSU_CSM had a 200 GPH one. Do you think that is sufficient to go through 25' of a CFC? Should I look for a bigger one? I'm not ready to give up on the CFC yet!
I've seen a lot of people talk about the whisper pumps (good and a few bad). I think the one I use for the filter on my QT tank's a whisper and it's fine - This one's a bestseller on Amazon with plenty of good reviews to constitute 9 bucks.
I think it's a safe bet, and holy crap do people hate the Q5.
http://www.amazon.com/Tetra-77851-Whisper-Pump-10-Gallon/dp/B0009YJ4N6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449708568&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=whisper+pump
Something like this, maybe a little bit bigger depending on the size of your stock tank. They keep up the dissolved oxygen in the water for the fish to breathe. I do have to say that products like these don't work as good as a solid population of grasses and such things, but to keep your fish alive for a few hours it'd do the trick.
I'm stoned so I decided to price out a DIY recirculating drip [single unit] for you with links!
$31.86 for a DIY recirculating drip bucket
If you don't have an Air Pump you're looking at $38.86.
I'm setting up a 10 gallon walstad tank and just added plants + water last night. I'm running this sponge filter with the whisper 10 gallon air compressor. Do you guys think this is going to be enough flow to keep my water clean?
The tank will hold 1 sparkling gourami, 4 venezuelan pygmy cory, and 8 chili rasbora, which like slower moving water.
I'm guessing I need another sponge filter or a stronger air compressor, but this is my first time using either so I honestly have no clue.
Air pump Air line Filter
Sponge filters really are the best when it comes to shrimp tanks. I would only do a betta if you added a fish, but you also run the risk of the betta eating the shrimp. Ghost shrimp or neocaridina would be great.
Aquarium salts can help with fin rot. Macaryn Two is also a good choice. Be careful with aquarium salts though. Don't dose every time you do a water change like normal medication.
Also, I second the sponge filters. You can get one for a 10g one (which I'd recommend because the more filtration, the better) for like $5 on amazon. Plus you'd need an air pump which are also relatively cheap.
-Sponge Filter
-Air Pump
Sponge filter!! I use these off Amazon in my 10G’s and my 5.5G and they’re great! Plus: you’ll have an extra sponge you can use if you need to set up a new cycled tank ASAP (like for a new buddy or a quarantine tank). Highly recommend! :D
Edit: you will need an air pump with it though. I use the standard Tetra Whisper also off Amazon. :)
I don't know if you can find this exact one in Australia, but I have one of these in each of my 2.5g and they are fantastic. Barely any surface agitation
I use this internal filter on my 4 gallon shrimp tank. It's dead quiet and won't suck up tiny shrimp.
I have a small internal filter, can I replace the sponge with a bag of purigen to remove the tannins from my driftwood?
This is the filter I always recommend:
https://www.amazon.com/KollerCraft-Aquarium-Mini-Internal-Filter/dp/B00176GKM8
I use this on my 3-gallon shrimp tank and a 5-gallon betta tank I just finished for my future FIL.
I use this one. It comes with two different heads and an adjustable flow. I wouldn't recommend it to anything under 4-5 gallons because otherwise the current is too strong (in my two gallon jar my fish was blown around and never seemed to get a rest). Cartridges are hard to find but most people recommend to never replace it because of the good bacteria in it but I do replace the carbon in it 1 time a month.
I'll preface by saying that I know nothingn about salamanders. A hang on filter will pour from the top and probably look cluttered, so I'd try other options first. You could make some sort of waterfall, but it might get really messy if the salamander is always wet and muddy. Not sure, but if you find a way to make it look nice, it might work the best.
A cheaper option would be a sponge filter, which unless you DIY, you'd need to buy the airpump, tubing, and sponge filter online, this would unfortunately have a lot less flow. Here is another alternative and probably what I would do, internal filter. You might prefer a smaller variety, but I chose this one just for reference. What about floating plants btw? Salvinia especially might be a nice plant, but I'm not sure if it will be safe/left alone. If you'd instead like plants under the surface, there's marimo balls, java fern, and anubias. These are all low-light and impossible to "deroot" plants.
I just bought this filter for our ten gallon and it's perfect size and our little guy loves hanging out under it. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00176GKM8/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_rnlzub08GN49W
I got this one
http://www.amazon.com/Aquarium-Internal-Filter-45gph-adjustable/dp/B00176GKM8
My betta likes to swim in the current sometimes, but he sleeps on the other side. Although I could be wrong and he secretly doesn't like it. But I catch him every so often on the filter side.
Well, it's smaller but it looks like the exact same design: http://www.amazon.com/KollerCraft-Aquarium-Mini-Internal-Filter/dp/B00176GKM8
I have one of these in my 2.5 shrimp tank. It's been going for about two years. It comes with a little carbon box cartridge, if you carefully pry it open and dump the carbon you could put a few bits of small ceramic media in it. I stuff a few more ceramic bits between that and the sponge in mine. Decent mini filter and cheap.
I have this filter for my betta in the same tank as yours. I use the small spray opening and point it at the wall of the tank to divert the flow. You can also change the strength of the flow or use the spray bar. It did not bother my betta at all and collected quite a bit of bacteria.
You need a gravel vacuum to suck the poop, old food, and other waste out of the gravel.
When people say you should change your water, they are essentially saying "vacuum the gravel until 25% of the water is gone, then add new water". Since you don't have a filter you should change the water more frequently, preferably every 3 or so days. While I cannot make a diagnosis because I never saw the fish, the smell makes it sound like the water was toxic, but if it's to the point of killing a fish the fish will generally have ammonia burns, ulcers, frayed fins, swollen gills, etc
Time how much he eats in roughly 2 minutes, and then feed him that instead of a strict 4 pellet rule. Scoop out any left over food so it doesn't fall to the bottom and rot.
Many people advise against having a filter in a tank with a betta, because the current can stress them out, but a small filter with floating plants to absorb the current as it comes out of the filter will do wonders for your tanks health. this would be perfect for your tank.
Planted tanks will also help out a ton, because the plants will thrive in fish-poop-filled tanks and you'll only have to suck poop off the top of the gravel. If you don't want a planted tank but do want a filter, floating plastic plants will work but remember to leave room for the betta to feed, because they always feed at the surface.
Another mistake many novice fish keepers make is not offering hiding space. They think "I want to see this fish all the time" and don't realize that if a fish cant hide when it's stressed scared, or just plain tired, it can take it's toll on your betas health. Make sure that there is sufficient room for your fish to completely conceal itself if it so chooses
Check out /r/Aquariums /r/PlantedTank and /r/bettafish
If you plan on a small tank, I recommend this filter. Really good and totally silent. I have a 2.5 gallon tank right by my bed and I can't sleep with lots of noise, so it was perfect.
I found this one completely silent:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00176GKM8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
No I have the fluval one that came with it, the pump isn't loud for me personally but it's in my kitchen so the noise doesn't bug me.
The filter output is really strong yeah, but I bought some of these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002LL32RY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2QgvDbJYGTT0K and it's baffled the flow of the two nozzles perfectly when I aim them upwards and a little bit above the water line. There's still a little bit of flow, but my betta can swim around very happily now with no issues :) Hope this helped you!
Yeah, but this is probably the only way to reduce the amount of the stuff especially since you're not sure what it is. You should take a closer look anyway and figure out if it look organic or more like dust.
It all depends on what the sponge looks like. It needs to be a shape that will make a good seal around your intake. You can use a zip tie or a clamp of some sort if you need to. And you will know it needs to be unclogged when you return flow rate goes down. I'm sure if you google DIY pre filter you'll find a lot of stuff. Filter floss is very flexible and probably easier to work with than a sponge. If I had to do it again I would probably try filter floss and a clamp to seal it.
You can also get a fluval pre filter from petco/petsmart for like $4. Probably the easiest solution if it fits around your intake.
Our aquaclear is great. If you don't have the funds for a canister filter, and if you plan on keeping/breeding small fish/animals like shrimp you can fit a Fluval Edge prefilter sponge on the intake so you won't have to worry about 'accidents'. http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A1387-EDGE-Pre-Filter-Sponge/dp/B002LL32RY
If you're going full-planted, you may consider taking out the activated carbon from the filter and substituting it for filter fiber or similar media, as I've read in some places the activated carbon will get rid of beneficial bacteria.
You'd be surprised how many places shrimp can get into.
Put one of these over the intake
I'd love a more focal stone in the middle, or some more plants to add to the tank. Also, the sponge on the filter is a bit of an eyesore compared to the rest of the tank, I'd consider getting a Fluval Edge pre-filter sponge to clean that up a bit.
Otherwise, I *love* your CPDs.
Replace java moss for xmas moss. Xmas moss is fairly easy to find/cheap nowadays and looks way better than java. Java looks like crazy hair xD And buy a intake sponge. https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A1387-EDGE-Pre-Filter-Sponge/dp/B002LL32RY (petco has it for 2.99) Something like this. Your shrimp will appreciate it, not being sucked up and the biofilm that grows on the sponge.
So biomax stuff is your biological media stick some in the filter this is normally where they’d be I do have some scattered through the gravel. Just more surface for bacteria but your main source would be the filter. Never water change and clean filter on same day.
Nitro cycle
Is 0ppm ammonia, 0ppm nitrite and between 5/10ppm nitrate. If no ammonia and nitrite in tank, this is sign of established cycled tank. If present not established. You can buy bacteria in a bottle these days which helps.
I’ve also got a betta and in the beginning worried about flow myself. Fluval makes a pretty good sponge for this type of thing. It worked a treat. :)
Fluval Edge Prefilter Sponge https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002LL32RY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I used these prefilters on my Spec tanks, and actually had to turn the pump to a higher setting. They slide on perfectly and no modifications were necessary.
Yes the koi was a great find, luckily my LFS hand picks there bettas from breeders. Most are show quality and very unique, hence me owning four aquariums!
This one does the job just fine!
I found a site a while ago with lots of tips about using the Spec V for bettas. He recommended, and I use, a Fluval EDGE Prefilter Sponge and stick it over the outflow nozzle. The current is still strong so you get the filtration power, but it's not so strong that your boi gets blown away
http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A1387-EDGE-Pre-Filter-Sponge/dp/B002LL32RY
Something akin to these http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A1387-EDGE-Pre-Filter-Sponge/dp/B002LL32RY
They just slide over the filter inlet
On my Spec III, I used this cut in half. Worked wonderfully
You may be looking more for something like this, which is not pretty but would cover the intake and maybe baffle the outflow (if it's too hard for him):
https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A1387-EDGE-Pre-Filter-Sponge/dp/B002LL32RY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481504354&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=aquaclear+prefilter+sponge
Fluval Edge PreFilter Sponge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LL32RY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_l8bQCbCNNCWZM
Buy one of those if you have the fluval spec. works really well and looks nice.
my water doesn’t move but i think that’s just the cost of keeping it mostly still. i just make sure to do water changes.
pre filter
I just got this. Perfect, although a tad expensive for some foam. But prevents my shrimps from getting sucked up. They actually sit on it and eat the detritus and food off it.
I bought my tank about a month ago and have been letting it run, as per the advice I received here. It is now finally ready to house a fish. I don't want to hurt or stress out my fish at all so I waited til everything was set. Plus my tank decor only just arrived due to the original package getting lost by UPS.
I may buy a betta this weekend if I see "the right one" but I am ok with waiting!
Here is a list of things I got, based on the general reddit consensus. I wished someone had included a list like this so here you go
Fluval 5 gallon (includes filter/light)
Hydor heater (hides right in the side part of the Fluval tank)
Thermometer
Sponge thingy to make the filter stream not too strong for bettas (I zip tied it on)
I linked an item that might work to dampen the return flow. Most filters will work for a Betta but you might need to modify it accordingly for their needs. Heck, you could also make this yourself using zip ties and a sponge.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002LL32RY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Good on you for having done your research! It breaks my heart to hear a pet store employee recommending going without.
And thanks! I actually have some insomnia going so I went out and picked up three small ghost shrimp. When I introduced them to my tank, Dirk swam right up, looked at them for a few seconds, and swam away. I'm hoping I have a friendly betta.
It's about 25 clams on amazon. I added the ceramic diffuser for another 5.
Fluval charges quite a bit for the cartridges, but it takes a standard small co2 cartridge. They can be had for about a dollar a piece from other sellers on amazon.
He means this kit which uses these refill cartridges. There are other cartridges that you can get that will fit, they are bit smaller (16g), but a lot cheaper.
I had it, but never used it as when I put it in 2.5 gallon tank the chambers were huge and hit the substrate. Returned it and I'm doing DIY CO2. I halved everything from the recipe I use and used a large Gatorade bottle instead of a 2L.
probably referring to this, from personal experience I can tell you it's not worth it, the canister lasts maybe 3 weeks and the "diffuser" is very large and needs to be manually filled and closed. I've read some people have been able to adapt the system to co2 cylinder but that doesn't seem worth it to me either.
He is talking about this. Instead of using their overpriced proprietary cartridges you can use the 16 gram threaded cartridges meant for bicycle tire inflaters like these.
Thanks, I'll do a bit more research on CO2 before I pull the trigger. I'll probably end up buying this since it's pretty cheap and seems good for a beginner.
I have a pleco, and he does wonders. I already use rodi water. Currently I use this https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Mini-Pressurized-20g-CO2-Kit/dp/B0049RL3H4 but with a normal diffuser.. Looking to switch to an automatic gla regulated 5lb tank. How is gla's ferts different from flourish?
I have no complaints with mine! It's a small fluval co2 diffuser, I do take it out probably once a month to wipe it down but I haven't had any problems with it getting dirty. Here's the link to it on amazon:
Fluval Mini Pressurized 20g-CO2 Kit - 0.7 ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049RL3H4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ovVRybR1KD1TP
It’s the tiny little cheap Fluval system that uses disposable CO2 canisters. The refills they sell are a huge ripoff but you can use cycling pump refill cartridges and the threads are perfect. If bought in bulk, only 1 - 2.50$ per refill, lasts ~2 weeks.
https://www.amazon.ca/Fluval-Mini-Pressurized-20g-CO2-Kit/dp/B0049RL3H4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1540362864&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=fluval+co2&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41GHMk-SUuL&amp;ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/RedRock-Unthreaded-Gram-CO2-Cartridges/dp/B01IC4B34M/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1540363079&amp;sr=8-2-spons&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=threaded+co2+cartridges+16g&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Mini-Pressurized-20g-CO2-Kit/dp/B0049RL3H4 . Do you mean this kit?. also what adapter do you use?
Yeah, the only difference is that I used the Fluval diffuser. The glass diffuser is a lot more fragile - I dropped mine and it shattered. The Fluval one is a clunky piece of plastic, but holds up well. I've been re-evaluating my setup and will be replacing my DIY system with something more robust. Before I get into why, let me go share some advice with they DIY system...
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First off, I'd also get a check valve. This will prevent siphoned water to back up into your CO2 setup. There are bubble counter/check valve combinations, even a diffuser/counter/check valve combo.
I haven't purchased these, so I can't comment on the quality. I will say - I purchase most if not all my supplies from Amazon with great success. I always buy the least expensive equipment. Most of it I can tell comes from China, but the quality is still pretty good - it gets the job done.
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Second, the DIY setup is good, but does not last. The DIY kit you can get on Amazon is awesome - fits right on any standard soda bottle and has a nice needle valve and pressure gauge. My problem is durability, the setup I used to create the tank I have in the picture has recently broken down. The pressure gauge ripped off (because the tubing wore down) and although I tried to reattach and seal it, there was a slow leak that I wasn't willing to try and repatch. This is the second DIY kit I've broken, they both broke at the tubing piece that connects the gauge and the bottle cap. The main reason why it breaks down is because I shake the shit out of those bottles to stir up the Baking Soda and/or Citric Acid. I never really paid attention to the pressure gauge flopping to and fro, but now I realize that after enough "fros", the tubing worn down until it tore off. So if you stick with the DIY setup, try to either not shake it like a polaroid picture - or hold the pressure gauge steady.
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The DIY system is cool because it makes you look like Walter White and also provides a "cheap" way of getting CO2 into your tank. All you have to buy after you have your setup is Baking Soda and Citric Acid. Baking Soda, I get at Costco for cheap and is so big it will last forever. Citric Acid - I haven't really looked in depth at purchasing local - but Amazon sells these 5lb bags for $15. I think it's the best deal on Amazon. I've only bought two bags total (I tried it in my 75 gallon tank - STUPIDEST IDEA EVER - but that was when I was really new to the hobby). I'd say for a 5-10 gallon tank, 1 5lb bag of Citric Acid should last you for maybeee a year - depends on your bubbles per second obviously.
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One major con I have for the DIY system besides durability is that it's all manual. Sure - you can figure out how to rig up a solenoid of some sort and what not to get it on a timer- but seems like more trouble than it's worth for a DIY system. I let my CO2 run 24/7 which isn't ideal - but as the picture above clearly shows - it works. The other downside of it being manual is that baking soda surprisingly doesn't mix all the way with water. So when you introduce it to the citric acid solution (which mixes well with water) - the entire reaction may not occur until you shake it and baking soda then reaches the citric acid. Having to periodically check my CO2 system isn't terribly difficult, especially if you chose the DIY setup to save money - but sometimes if too much citric acid is transferred into the Baking Soda side - a fuckton of CO2 is created and now either is pumping into my tank or my soda bottles look like they're ready to explode. I will say - this has happened to me very rarely. I've seen my soda bottles build a lot of pressure before - but never bursted. So it's not the end of the world, just an unexpected inconvenience.
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The other major con I have is refilling. Sure refilling doesn't take that long, empty the neutral baking soda/citric acid solution and add a the the right amounts of the new solutions in. But after doing it so many times - I'm kinda tired of it. I sometimes have extra soda bottles at the ready with the solutions and unscrew the old ones and pop in the new ones. Good plan, but still takes time and effort.
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If you're careful not to shake the tubing of the pressure gauge, content with either having CO2 run 24/7 or manually turn it on and off AND are willing to periodically refill soda bottles, then I'd say give the DIY system a shot.
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I chose the DIY setup when I first started the hobby and wasn't sure how dedicated I would be. Also - I didn't have a great paying job that would warrant me paying more for a convenient/foolproof CO2 setup.
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Which brings me to what I plan on doing now. Now that I'm more interested in the hobby, I've decided to step my game up. For starters, I have a 75 gallon tank rigged up to a 20 lb CO2 tank that I have to refill every 3-4 months. I live by a small hydroponics shop that refills my CO2 tank for $20. I don't know if $20 is cheap, but the store is close, convenient and gets the job done. I also attached a $40 solenoid to it so I could connect it to a timer. This setup has been AWESOME. Very simple, and 100% reliable. I just take my empty 20 lb tank to the store and get it filled and plug it back into the solenoid.
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Because my 20lb CO2 tank setup has been so successful in my 75 gallon, I've decided to do something similar for my 5 gallon. While a 20lb CO2 tank is complete overkill - there are pretty good alternatives out there. I've looked at using the Fluval 20G CO2 kit and using Threaded CO2 Bike Tire Cartridges. The diffuser that comes with the Fluval system is huge and I would never use it. So basically I'm paying $30 for a regulator that can't even easily attach to a solenoid. Also those 16g bike tire cartridges seem small and wasteful. So your costs are $30 for the setup and ~$30 for the CO2 cartridges - which who knows how long those last. The main benefit to this setup is that it's super small. This seems like a good setup for sure and was very close to going for it, but I've decided to go with something else.
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I'm buying a 24 oz Paintball CO2 tank ($25) , a CGA 320 Adapter (CGA 320 is the size of the standard CO2 tank threading) ($10), and a regular solenoid ($40). The prices seem reasonable except for that CGA 320 adapter piece. $10 for a piece of metal. Unfortunately, I couldn't find the same piece at Home Depot or Lowe's and I'm also lazy. So I'd rather pay the $10 then figure out how to jerry-rig my own. The adapter allows the threading of a Paintball tank to connect with the threading of a standard CO2 solenoid. Considering the Fluval setup is $60, I'd say this $75 paintball setup is worth it - especially since it now has a solenoid! The main difference is CO2 refill. Dick's Sporting Goods (also local for me) refills 24oz paintball CO2 tanks for $5 and every 5th fill is free. I think 24 oz will last me a long time anyway. In any case - I think the main obstacle whether it is using a 20lb CO2 tank or using a 24oz Paintball tank is where you're going to get that CO2 filled. You can search for a local Airgas or like a place that sells/refills Fire Extinguishers. Bars use CO2 as well for beer - but you don't need food grade CO2, that's just overpaying.
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I know I went a little overboard, but this is all information that I've recently researched and figured I'd share it. I can't comment on the performance on the paintball tank setup just yet, but I assume it will work fine.
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TL;DR DIY systems are cheap and good, but not 100% reliable/consistent and must be manually turned on/off/. You may or may not marry a woman named Skyler White during the process. Major costs are $15 for DIY rig, $15 for a 5lb bag of Citric Acid. I'd recommend using a 24oz Paintball CO2 tank because they can attach to a solenoid and are reliable and consistent. Major costs are $25 for a 24oz Paintball Tank, $10 for a CGA 320 Adapter, a $40 solenoid. $5 fill ups at Dick's Sporting Goods.
here’s the product I’m out to dinner but I’ll PM you later a picture if you’d like, it’s a pretty small footprint out side of the tank, the included diffuser is a tad large for my 5 gal but I don’t think it detracts too much.
I would recommend you set up a DIY CO2 system first to see if the results are what you're aiming for. It will cost about 1/5th the price of a prebuilt system. In my case I didn't want to deal with wasted CO2 cartridges that just end up in landfills anyways; so I got myself Seachem Flourish Excel which is a liquid CO2 dose. Dose every day manually but its only 1mL per 10 gallons every day or every other day depending on your plants requirements.
Amazon has it cheaper: http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Mini-Pressurized-20g-CO2-Kit/dp/B0049RL3H4
Also since we don't know how big your tank is and how many plants you have its hard to say if that's enough CO2.
https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Mini-Pressurized-20g-CO2-Kit/dp/B0049RL3H4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=fluval+20g&amp;qid=1554097357&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-1
It seems like replacing the co2 cannisters would get really expensive though. I'll probably try DIY for a little while but could see myself breaking down and getting a legit kit. Any suggestions? I saw this cheap fluval one but the replacement canisters get expensive.
Edit- word
It could be too many plants not enough co2. I'd give it a shot as it should give your plants a boost to health either way. I highly recommend the fluval 20g co2 passive defuser! It's great for 5-10 gallons.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0049RL3H4?psc=1&amp;ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image
I'm using a fluval diffuser (Fluval Ceramic 88g-CO2 Diffuser - 3.1 Ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GCO35G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9IeDybVE2XBQ4) and I use 3 BPS. I am switching to inline reactor and attaching it to my fluval 206 - just waiting for the sleeves to come in the mail. Thought I might like the look of the bubbles but it turns it I hate them lol.
I'm using that setup in a 5 gallon Fluval Spec right now. Ditch the diffuser it comes with, its huge. Get the this [one] (https://smile.amazon.com/Fluval-Ceramic-88g-CO2-Diffuser-Ounces/dp/B004GCO35G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1486225190&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Fluval+diffuser)
You can also get threaded mini co2 canisters much cheaper than the fluval brand. $23 for a 15 pack. Each one lasts me about a month on 6 hours a day/ 1 bubble per second. link
Its a bit cumbersome, the valve takes some time to get used to. The slightest twist will either be too much or nothing at all. Its not automatic so you basically have to touch it twice a day, once to turn it on and once again to off. IF you have any questions let me know
http://www.amazon.com/AQUATEK-OF-CALIFORNIA-Regulator-Mini/dp/B008TJCPSY/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1414044611&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=aquatek
I was looking at this, how long does a 20oz tank last you op?
P.s I've used this diffuser and the bubbles are smaller
http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Ceramic-Diffuser-Aquarium-3-1-Ounces/dp/B004GCO35G/ref=sr_1_11?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1414044741&amp;sr=1-11&amp;keywords=aquatek
Very cool write-up, thanks!
Your diffuser is very clever, but even for a DIY system, I personally recommend to buy a diffuser. I tried about half a dozen different DIY diffusers, and eventually decided to just give in and buy one. I am currently using the Fluval Ceramic one, and will never go back:
http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Ceramic-88g-CO2-Diffuser-Ounces/dp/B004GCO35G
$20 got me the diffuser, plus 3 replacement ceramic disks. Mine has been running for a month, and makes a ton of tiny micro-bubbles. I placed it at the bottom of my tank under my powerhead, and my plants absolutely love it.
The only drawback to this diffuser is your Co2 system needs a LOT of pressure for it to start working. If you use it, make sure you are using thick bottles and well sealed air lines.
I've never used a ladder, but I think that a ceramic diffuser would be better. I've used a fluval diffuser and it seems to work, plus its cheap. There are plenty of more expensive ones out there, but I haven't used them.
All co2 diffusers work by increasing the time and the surface area over which the co2 comes in contact with the water. The ladder diffusers have a few large bubbles that spend a couple seconds in contact, while the ceramic diffusers create hundreds of tiny bubbles that spend a few seconds floating, much more surface area. You can also position the diffuser beneath the return from your filter; it will blow the bubbles around in the tank increasing the time the bubbles have to dissolve.
Thanks!
Here's a link for the diffuser I'll be switching to maybe you'll like it too
https://www.amazon.ca/Fluval-Ceramic-88g-CO2-Diffuser-Ounces/dp/B004GCO35G/ref=asc_df_B004GCO35G/?tag=googlemobshop-20&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=234376523249&amp;hvpos=1o1&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=14328734804121458538&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvdev=m&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9000020&amp;hvtargid=pla-293946777986&amp;psc=1#immersive-view_1535844498454
I've ran the CO2 tubing directly into the intake of my HOB filter and it did "ok". I eventually got a fluval ceramic diffuser and it's been terrific. I still keep it below the inlet of the filter but the bubbles are much smaller. I also tried using bamboo chopsticks as a diffuser and that worked pretty well but occasionally it got clogged but very inexpensive and easily hidden.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004GCO35G?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00
It's made for nano tanks so i figured I'd give it a shot and I absolutely love it.
fluval diffuser
Get some of these: https://www.amazon.com/Pre-Filter-Sponge-Pack-Fluval-Aquarium/dp/B004K9A15G/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1519365577&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=aquaclear+sponges
and go with the 20-30 rated. It's always better to over-filtrate, but with small inverts you need to pre-filter.
The filter current can be too strong for Bettas to swim against. Even in my larger tanks they struggle, and will often try to spend their time as far away from the filter outflow. People 'baffle', or slow down the outflow, in a variety of different ways. Personally I put a filter intake sponge, like this to avoid having any delicate fins sucked into the intake, and then also use a cut, clean water bottle over the flow like this
But your number one goal right now should be not the PH, but rather the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. Get a liquid test kit, and Prime by Seachem. Those are the two most important things you will ever purchase for the health of your fish. You can return the air stone. Bettas do not need it, and often the increased flow can stress them out.
Using Prime by Seachem as a water conditioner is the best thing you can do for fish in cycling. Widely available at LFS and even Petco. It binds up to 1ppm of Ammonia into a less toxic form, to safeguard against ammonia poisoning between water changes. I will never, ever, ever be without it ever again.
Seconding sponges! My Eheim's spray bar is a bit too forceful as well, and I have covered it with these Fluval cylinder sponges. I used a knife to poke a hole in the bottom of the sponge so I could easily slide it onto the bar. Of course, any shape of sponge can be cut and molded and tied where necessary. I just went for the fool proof option (alas, I am only a fool).
I cut off the bottom part of the 2nd intake tube that came with it (the pointy part), and used it to extend the tube. With an intake sponge https://www.amazon.com/Pre-Filter-Sponge-Pack-Fluval-Aquarium/dp/B004K9A15G/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1500078885&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=aquaclear+intake+sponges, it is about 1cm off of my substrate.
Be mindful of sand getting into your filter and messing up the impeller magnet. Had it happen to me before when I had sand.
One thing you could do is buy this and put it over the intake:
http://www.amazon.com/Pre-Filter-Sponge-Pack-Fluval-Aquarium/dp/B004K9A15G
Petsmart sells them for like $2.
Hrm, something is missing.
Here's the link at least: http://www.amazon.com/Pre-Filter-Sponge-Pack-Fluval-Aquarium/dp/B004K9A15G
get pre-filter sponges next time, they work great and all you have to do is rinse it off. amazon link
I run an aquaclear 50 on my 10gal and an aquaclear 30 on my 5gal. You could easily add another 20 and run them together or go with a single bigger one. Bigger ones will have a stronger flow output (though it is adjustable with aquaclears) so keep that in mind if you have fish that struggle with current (like bettas).
Edit: a sponge filter would be good too. But you'll get more bang for your buck with a second hob. You can add a sponge to the intake of the hobs for added filtration.
Here you go:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004K9A15G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I think there is a larger pack too. And it doesn't just fit fluval. Mine is an Aqueon.
You definitely need a sponge for your filter intake, I got these here https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004K9A15G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I also use these prefilter sponges in addition to the sponge inside my filter. I pull them off and rinse them ever couple of weeks.
What you need to prevent the is a prefilter media
Just do it all slowly if you are having trouble affording it. I know how it is to be able to afford even a fish. Just do everything a little at a time. Good Luck!
ok, something like this could work
http://www.amazon.com/XY-2831-Sponge-Filter-Aquarium-10-gallon/dp/B0056XVF82/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463855420&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=sponge+filter
or this
http://www.amazon.com/XY-380-Aquarium-Biochemical-Sponge-Filter/dp/B0051XIN78/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463855420&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=sponge+filter
Could work, keep in mind these are just examples and there are several brands out there that are similar in price and might have better shipping
Marina Battery-Operated Air Pump https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TLWXOS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_cbMdzbCJMNTEY
XY-380 Aquarium Fish Tank Biochemical Sponge Filter, 4-1/2-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051XIN78/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XbMdzbCW64ACY
5 Gallon White Bucket & Lid - Durable 90 Mil All Purpose Pail - Food Grade - BPA Free Plastic - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A1LUFEY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FcMdzbJ3S2MBT
I'm sure you can find the bucket cheaper in store.
Usually the sponges have a gallon rating you can go by (on the box, varies by model). This Sponge Filter is similar to the one you describe, and supposedly lists 100 gallons as the max load. People in the comments recommend it only be used in tanks 50 gallons or smaller to be on the safe side. This being said, I ran a 60 gallon sponge in my 40 gallon tank without any issues for several months before upgrading a canister filter.
I'm no expert (feel free to correct me! :P), but from the size of your tank those sponges look more than ample. They're not blocked off, and the pumps are moving air in a steady stream. If you're worried about suction, you can usually feel it when you touch the sponge. If you see slight accumulation of particulate matter on them, it's safe to assume they're working.
Okay this is easy then.
Don't use tap water for anything at all.
We are going to do what is called a water restart. You are going to empty the water (save 5 gallons of water in a bucket and put the little guy you have left in the bucket).
You will have to purchase this product (http://www.hanaquatics.com/salty-shrimp-shrimp-mineral-gh-kh/)
If you get 200g it will last you a lifetime.
Once all the water is drained you will fill the RO/DI water into buckets and add the salty shrimp to RO/DI water until the TDS is between 200-250. Add this water to your tank. Now your tank should be between 200-250 TDS.
Wait 24 hours with the filter running etc.
Take a small bucket of water and drip acclimate your shrimp (see: https://youtu.be/ZSnJjTEjWyU).
This is going to take a few hours. Every 30-45 mins make sure to take some water out of the bucket. Eventually the water in your bucket and the water in the tank will be within 20 TDS of each other. When the water in the bucket is close to the water in the tank you will be set to transfer the new shrimp into his home.
A few pointers about your tank:
The sponge filter will grow mincroorganisms that the shrimp love to eat. It will allow your shrimp to graze and be healthy at all times.
I know this is a large wall of text but once you get the hang of it Neocardina are quite forgiving.
NOTE: The salty Shrimp gh/kh is very concentrated so a little will go a long way.
You want the “power filter” it mounts on the edge of your tank rather than all the way inside and with one of those you don’t actually need a sponge filter. I was just saying you could use the one you posted with a sponge filter (like this https://www.amazon.com/XY-380-Aquarium-Biochemical-Sponge-Filter/dp/B0051XIN78) and then just plug the tube on it into the intake of the power head.
I switched to this corner filter and put Seachem matrix at the bottom instead of the ceramic rings for extra filtration since I have a snail and they're poop machines. This sponge filter is also a good option if you only have a betta since it takes up less space i n the tank. A lot of others on this sub have used it and seen good results from what I've read.
Additionally, I should add: He lives in a 10 gallon tank which is heated (80°F) and filtered sponge filter augmented with Whisper 3i which he's had since I got him over a year ago from when he was in a smaller tank.
He typically gets 25% weekly water changes although over a month ago I was gone for about a week and a half so there was a bit of a lapse.
Are these the same thing as that second one? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0056XVF82/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_U4xKxbATT321Q
thanks! , I currently have 2 filters running, the sponge filter is here: Sponge Filter Link, and my other filter is a Marineland Penguin Biowheel 75, my light is the Marineland Advanced LED Strip Light, anywhere from $60 to $100 for 18", depends on where you look
O wow! That is amazing! I hope mine looks half as good as yours lol. In response to the cuttlebone and catappa leaf in the filter, I didn't realize you could add things inside the sponge filters. I'll post a link to the kind of sponge filter I decided on. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0056XVF82/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I2JDO6NECWVBL2&amp;colid=OAA927L82TRN
But would you think a sponge filter like this would be good for a betta tank?
3 gal is on smaller side for betta alone, without cories. If your room temperature is less than 78F/25C, heater for betta will be needed, any 25-50W heater should be enough. If you can get adjustable heater and it will keep temperature at 80F (not all of them do), even better.
With fish, having something for water flow and mechanical filtration is better than not having it, place outflow near heater for an even temperature distribution in the tank.
Fish will poop, cleaning has to be done, water changes too. Waiving tubing above substrate should not disturb plants and helps with collecting waste.
Sponge filter is good enough, especially T-shaped, it will bubble too. For running it you will need air pump and check valve to prevent siphoning water out if there will be power outage and air pump is below water level.
If internal water filter, it should have not too high flow, 10x tank volume per hour, not more, IMO. Hang on the back power filter like Azoo Mignon 550 or Deep Blue BioMaxx Nano will work too, flow is adjustable.
See r/nanotank for aquascaping ideas, it takes time and some resources, but the result is well worth it.
Something like this? http://www.amazon.com/Aquarium-Biochemical-Sponge-Filter-Fish/dp/B0056XVF82#
It should be good but maybe you should get this: http://www.amazon.com/Aquarium-Biochemical-Sponge-Filter-Fish/dp/B0056XVF82/ref=pd_sbs_petsupplies_2?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=1V3G7JQJWAZ8VRNGXMPG
Would one like this work?
This one https://www.amazon.com/XY-2831-Sponge-Filter-Aquarium-10-gallon/dp/B0056XVF82
I have gotten that exact same heater to work for me, so you are out of luck there
How do I know if something like this is good enough? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0056XVF82/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CeJjzbYQ2M13S
My only suggestion is use a very simple air powered sponge filter, they are just a couple bucks, your aquarium will be crystal clear and very happy.
those are the best biological filters for the buck and micro setups work awesome with them, here is an example from amazon
http://www.amazon.com/Aquarium-Biochemical-Sponge-Filter-Fish/dp/B0056XVF82
I use this sponge filter. I have been using it for months and my adult and baby shrimp love grazing and chilling out on it.
Try to get the sponge filter like this https://www.amazon.com/XY-2831-Sponge-Filter-Aquarium-10-gallon/dp/B0056XVF82
It creates better flow for your aquarium.
XY-2831 Air Pump Sponge Filter for Aquarium, Tank Size 10-gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0056XVF82/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2lwRAb15PF8MM
Just to make sure I have this right is this a double sponge filter? It isn't listed as such but my common sense says it is.
XY-2831 Air Pump Sponge Filter for Aquarium, Tank Size 10-gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0056XVF82/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_PAIxwbQ1EP6QD
A gentle filter, I find, is pretty much vital in any tank, whether it's 1.5 gallons or 20. Without one, you'll have to do water changes of much higher volume and far more often, and not only is it annoying for you, it can be more stressful for your betta to constantly have to be acclimated to new water. You can use a power filter and baffle it with something so it's not so harsh, but I recommend a sponge filter, they are gentler, quieter, easier, and a hell of a lot cheaper. I have a 4.5 gallon tank (Such a strange size, no?) and I use this with a tetra whisper air pump. I'm rather fond of the filter I have now, as it suctions to the tank wall and leaves more space for him to explore, and it's easier to clean the gravel. As for tankmates, it depends on the personality of your betta and what he works best with. Mystery snails are popular as they help keep the tank clean. Tetras and shrimp are also popular. You can only experiment. My guy works awesome with the snail in his tank, but others have had their snail mysteriously murdered. Experiment with it, see how he does.
Non-mobile:
^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?
In my divided tank, I have this filter with one of the intakes on each side. Then I angle the outflow into the divider to lessen the current and get water agitation on both sides. I never have the bio-film issue you see with some divided tanks, and both sides get adequate filtration. I have a 50w heater on one side, and monitor the temperature on the opposite side of the tank to ensure consistent temperature.
Since I have shrimp in the tank also, I just swapped out the whole filter/fountain/light assembly and removed its holder from the glass. For lighting, I went with http://www.thatpetplace.com/fluval-nano-performance-led-lamp-aqualife-plant (cost a pretty penny in the store, but I have no complaints about the plant growth).
For filter I went with http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0056XVF82/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 hooked up to a generic 10gal air pump.
Originally I used a tandem of the stock light and an IKEA desk light next to the tank. Had some issues with the initial glow fish and aggression, so moved them to a larger tank and now have Neon Tetras in the tank with RCS. Imgur link: http://imgur.com/a/7XBLh
Sorry I'm really bad at this, my first aquarium was a kit haha. This was one of the suggestions I got: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0056XVF82/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A7SIQ2Y2T11UM
You said that the sponges themselves are filters so I'm assuming this is an in-water filter right?
Sponge filter works great for me. I was probably a bit too careful, but Axies don't tolerate a lot of water flow. I don't think a canister filter would be too bad, but I just wanted to be on the safe side. I actually have a double filter, so i can clean one at a time, every other week.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0056XVF82/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481733155&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=dual+sponge+filter&amp;pi=SY200_QL40
I have this one, but the 20 gallon version.
Ikea RANARP lamp with a 14 watt daylight compact fluorescent bulb
Substrate is pool filter sand and river pebbles.
Plants include several crypts, ludwigia repens and peruenis, susswassertang, java moss, bacopa, purple cabomba, riccia flutens, duckweed, frogbit, dwarf water lettuce, and an oriental sword.
Filter is a cheap sponge filter that I modified by drilling several pieces of driftwood out. I hollowed out the bottom piece to hide the sponge intake and then ran tubing up the long piece for the outflow.
Dosing with metricide (excel substitute), and NilocG macro and micro fertilizer.
It is pushing it for a Betta as they should be in something at least 5 gallons or so. This one does not have a heater as I was trying to hide all equipment so it would not be great for a betta. I will probably just stock it with a small snail or some of the red cherry shrimp culls from my other tanks.
I used this.
SEACHICKEN usually kept his distance from it but I guess he kinda just went to investigate. It's been in there for a few weeks.
You're not hopeless, you're new :P
A sponge filter is just a filter made of a sponge and some tubing, powered by an air pump. It's a bit more complex than that, but simple enough you can make your own with a bit of practice.
https://www.amazon.com/XINYOU-XY-2835-Aquarium-Cylinder-Sponge/dp/B005LMQCW2
But seriously, the air line goes into the plastic tubing at the top where it sort of... plugs in, I guess. And bam. A subtle, efficient filter that doesn't blow your betta around, and for stupid cheap. I've got three running in a ten gallon right now in case I want to set up another tank and the betta that's keeping them cycled doesn't really give a shit.
And yeah, ammonia is really easy to eliminate. Prime takes care of literally everything else you generally worry about except for heavy chemicals and soap, but that shit will kill your fish outright. Don't worry about it, you've got this!
Less than a month old? You never properly cycled it, and your animals died because of this. The white film is a biofilm, likely bacterial, but possibly fungal. We all see some degree of it during the cycling process, as there's no beneficial bacteria to outcompete whatever microbes you have growing. Since you already have an air pump, buy literally any sponge filter, swap it for the stone, and run it 24/7. This one is $3 and free shipping. Do not buy any more animals until your tank is cycled. If you haven't seen an ammonia spike in a month, you're probably messing up your tests. You're done cycling when you can add 3-4ppm ammonia source and quickly (in a day) see ammonia and nitrite at zero and a little nitrate.
Will this one be okay?
I would Suggest a tiny filter just because you said possible QT. It'll allow it to cycle over a period of time, but still be totally hidden behind plants.
Anubias and Java fern are easy and hardy plants, I use both of them in my Betta tanks along with Moneywort and Wisteria. I would recommend a sponge filter such as this.
All you need is an air stone for these. Arguably the best filters for their size due to the surface area they provide. They come in all sorts of shapes and sizes, and are cheap.
Edit: forgot the link lol
Sponge filters kinda suck at being discrete but the one I have running in my 5.5 and doesn't look that bad is [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Jardin-Aquarium-Cylinder-Sponge-Filter/dp/B005LMQCW2). Also its pretty small
Why not try a tiny sponge filter? You can pick them up on Amazon for really cheap, and they'll never crap out on you. Just don't listen to the cleaning instructions, they usually tell you to rinse and squeeze them in the sink which kills your cycle. Instead put it in a bucket of your tank water and squeeze it a few times inside the water then put it back in the tank.
https://www.amazon.ca/Uxcell-a11041900ux0060-Aquarium-Cylinder-Biochemical/dp/B005LMQCW2/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?crid=E8M6T2JHZ0O8&amp;keywords=sponge+filter&amp;qid=1555015289&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=spojge+&amp;sr=8-5
sponge filter check this one out. You need a air pump, and airline, and a check, just connect it. This is similar to the one I have. Bubble come out the top a break the surface and filters your water.
I am getting this one .
It ships from China, so it said that it is getting here between June 10 and July 16....
I have the 60: https://www.amazon.com/AZOO-AZ13097-Mignon-Filter-60/dp/B005VEWCMO
The 150 is also good.
The only reason I went with the 60 is because it's very small, and there is little bioload in the tank it's on.
Sunsun makes smaller rated canisters but they are still bigger than a HOB. This is a small one https://www.amazon.com/TechnToy-HW-603B-3-Stage-External-Canister/dp/B00CC6SCJQ or https://www.amazon.com/SunSun-Hw302-264GPH-Canister-Filter/dp/B00MGX7JXA/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469731069&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=sunsun+canister+filter
Also like snowmunkey said, aquaclear HOB are also an excellent choice.
I have one of these in my 2.5gal RCS tank, and it's UH MAAAY ZIIIING. Quiet, and if you take a pre filter sponge, cut it one one side, and wedge it under the outflow there will be almost no surface agitation, like this.
I also have this one and it's great too, but it's REALLY powerful despite it's size. You can put a sponge on the outflow to disperse it too though.
Here is the desktop version of your link
The gap between my tank's glass top and the overhead filter isn't big enough for my guy to crawl through, and it's too high in the tank (5 g) for him to reach easily. You may need to cut a different overhead filter intake to size, so that it doesn't reach as far down into the tank for them to climb.
Check craigslist too, I always see tanks on there.
For heaters, I have a bunch of these, and other than the temperature dial not always being accurate, they work just fine.
This filteris good for a 5 gallon, but you might want to replace the sponges with some better filter media.
I feel your pain. I have a 3 gallon nano tank and it took FOREVER to find a filter that won't be too strong for my betta. Finally I found a good one: Mignon 60.
There's a little nob on the intake that will allow you to adjust the flow. In a 5.5 gallon it should be perfect.
If even at the lowest setting you think is too strong, you can also take the black rectangle sponge and put it on the outflow (see the instructions here. I had to do this because my tank is only 3 gallon. But in your 5 gallon I think just the intake nob adjustment will be enough.
Good luck!
I have a Whisper 3i and I plan to throw it in the garbage. Yes it has a low flow, but because it's gravity-fed if your water level gets too low it ceases to function. I have constant problems that if I don't keep the spout right at the water level, it stops flowing. The setup is also really bad if you want to use good filter media. It's hard to put any decent media in there that doesn't also stop the flow of water, or get pushed out. So you're pretty much resigned to using the carbon cartridges it comes with.
I've gone through several air pumps too. I've had to bust them open and fix them several times, and I finally threw them away and replaces with a cheap Topfin brand air pump.
I'm buying this filter next payday and putting it in my 3gal tank. I plan to put new Bio Max media in it alongside the old filter cartridge from the whisper until it's seeded enough to toss the old one out.
Thanks.
>smaller tank will never fully cycle
That's not true at all.
I have one in a 2 gallon cube, with this filter and this heater. Added eco complete, plants, floating plants and the tank pretty much takes care of itself. Plenty of things in there to absorb nitrates.
EDIT: I should add, nobody should start out with a nano tank until you have experience under your belt, just that it is doable. For the most part, beginners should start with a 5-10 gallon for bettas. It's also much easier to find off the shelf equipment for it in stores.
I actually use the 304b on my decently heavily planted 75 and it's doing great. I love the 5 trays for media and how it's completely silent. The only problem I've noticed is that water flow all that great in the corner opposite to the spray bar.
here's my suggestion. This filter is for a 150g rated tank.
I had this running 3 turtles in a 75g tank and it kept it crystal clear. Get some sponges from the dollar store and put 2-3 in each layer of filter for this and it will do even better(
I am running a Sun Sun HW-304B in a 55 gal and its been going strong for over a year, friend of mine has 3 of the same filter with no issues and he got his first 2 years before me. I don't know if it will last as long as an Eheim but it keeps my tank clean through overstocking and light maintenance schedules when i get busy. At the price i dont know if you can really do better unless you spend at least twice as much.
I set my tank up about a month ago. I'm still new, but I've learned a lot so far.
AquaClear 30 Power Filter - 110 V, UL Listed (Includes AquaClear 30 Carbon, AquaClear 30 Foam & AquaClear 30 BioMax) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00020SVDG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4EPbzbM44XXWZ
It's not the best quality, so you will probably have to replace parts of it over time, but it's a good starter kit.
If you want to get some slightly higher quality gear for a comparable price, I recommend:
Boom, that's $100 and you get pretty much everything that's included in the kit but it will last longer. I don't think the light will let you grow much more than low-light plants, but it probably won't be worse than the light that comes with the kit.
Link to volcano.
Link to filter
I'm getting a second filter in a day or two. I knew I should have gone with the 50 in the first place, but oh well.
I got the one below, but I only have a 10 gallon tank. They have larger versions for different tank sizes. I noticed that if you keep the cover off of the top of the filter it makes it even more quiet than it already was to start with. If I weren't in a bind and could have waited for it to ship I would have ordered on Amazon. That is a great price. I paid $40 for that filter in petsmart
https://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-50-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B00020SVDG?th=1&amp;psc=1
I have the Fluval power filter 30, and I have the flow set to medium. Here's a link:
https://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-30-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B00020SVDG
Thank you so much for your input!
AquaClear 30
I can also add a Tetra Whisper PF10(gallon) if you think that would help.(?)
According to AqAdvisor, your stocking level would be at 102% with 6 Neon Tetras, 6 Harlequin Rasbora and 1 Platy (not 2): See Here
Also-- you'll need a better filter as this filter is not enough. I would recommend an Aquaclear 30.
I have a 20 gallon that I use two Aqua Clears with. They are simple and inexpensive.
http://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-30-Power-Filter-Includes/dp/B00020SVDG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1381960009&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=aquaclear+30
I had a biowheel but the wheel kept stopping. I think a canister is kinda overkill for such a small tank. Plus, it's expensive. I love the aquaclear's ability to mix and match media. I used the sponge along with some Purigen and ceramic stones for bacteria. The only problem I had was my plants kept fouling the intake tube when bits got caught in there but I simply had to take out the tube and clean it.
I say you get that and if it you like the hobby, then you can invest in a canister.
Are you wanting a canister for the efficiency or because it more aesthetically pleasing?
Just my personal opinion, I wouldn't get a canister for a tank that small. I'd probably get an Aquaclear... maybe something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-30-Power-Filter-Includes/dp/B00020SVDG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1348770268&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=aquaclear+filter+30
The Aquaclear filters are a great HOB filter that is reliable and very generous with the amount of filtration space it provides. There's also the Azoo Mignon Filter which is equally as good and has space in the back for a small heater if you can fit it.
I just switched to using a python and I love it. No buckets, no manual syphons, just hook it up to your sink and follow the directions.
Unfortunately turtle poop is sometimes too big to be picked up by a gravel vacuum :( I use one too, the biggest one the pet store has, and it'll get little pieces but I still scoop up larger pieces (and shell scutes that have shed) with an old fish net. My gravel vac now is mostly used for emptying the tank into buckets. People recommend these for bucket-less easy water changes though.
And yep, I use sand! A little bit of sand has gotten into my filter but that's mostly when I'm too impatient to let the sand settle before turning the filter back on after cleanings. It's important when you first get sand to wash it really well in a bucket to rinse out all the finer particles ("dust") that don't settle quickly. If you rinse it well enough it won't cloud the tank except for a little while after first adding it. I keep my filter intake a few inches above the sand. A little bit of sand got into my filter's motor and I was able to get it out. I use Fluval and you can buy new parts for their filters, so if I broke the motor I'd have to only replace that instead of a whole new filter. I don't know about other brands, but that gave me a little peace of mind about the sand.
And yeah, turtles are little bulldozers!!
Hmm yeah perhaps I'm mistaken then. For the counterpart, does the sink water run directly into the tank with this? http://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC/ref=pd_bxgy_petsupplies_text_y
I use a tube siphon to get water from the tank, though haven't gone directly into a sink or anything. I don't mind the bucket for taking water out, it's putting it back in where it's a tad daunting.