Best aquarium water pump accessories according to redditors

We found 35 Reddit comments discussing the best aquarium water pump accessories. We ranked the 22 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top Reddit comments about Aquarium Water Pump Accessories:

u/TheShadyMilkman206 · 7 pointsr/bettafish
  • As for filters, you have a plethora of options. The easiest to maintain are either sponge filters powered by an air pump. If you choose to go with a sponge filter you will need a ball valve to regulate the flow and control the amount of current in the tank (bettas generally live in and prefer very calm water with little to no surface agitation). OOOOR my favorite route, a hang-on-back filter. Aquaclear makes an excellent filter. The benefit to a hang-on-back filter over a sponge is that you have control over what type of media you choose to use inside of it. This allows for a ton of more advanced options down the line to control chemical levels and water purity. The average size of a filter speaks volumes to the necessity of a 5 to 10 gallon tank.

  • You will want to replace your plastic plants with ones made of silk. The best way to figure out if a decor item is safe for your fish is by dragging a pair of panty hoes (don’t know if I spelt that right) across the decoration. If the panty hoes tear at all then the item is not safe for your fish's fins. Once you are a bit deeper into the hobby, live plants are an excellent addition to any tank as they provide a type of "buffer" for your tank as they absorb harmful chemicals. That being said they can be quite a bit of work depending on what you want to grow.

  • API makes the best hobbyist level water test kit on the market. That being said, I hate the rest of their products for the most part. They are just simply inferior to other options. When you can, all you need to buy is some Seachem Prime for your water condition. It is the crème de la crème of water conditions and while the price tag is higher than others up front it is MUCH cheaper in the long run as it literally only takes 1 ml / 10 gallons to make your water safe for your fish. It also nullifies harmful ammonia and nitrite through a proprietary formula. To add to the awesomeness, you can safely overdose it at up to 5x the concentration safely, and that is even recommended for particularly harmful situations such as cycle crashes or fish-in cycles.

  • Due to the size of the tank he was in, water changes are a bit irrelevant. With such a small body of water and no filter, to keep him safe you would need to be performing 25-50% water changes a few times a day (not exaggerating) this leads back to my previous point about larger bodies of water being much easier to maintain. Once you have upgraded to a larger setup a standard water change schedule is usually ~30% once a week. In the event your water parameters are way out of whack and you need to change a lot of the water out, it is ALWAYS better to perform many small scale water changes as opposed to one large one. Large water changes cause violent shifts in PH, water hardness, temperature, and other parameters. These all stress the hell out of our little buddies. To add to this, established tanks do not need to be "cleaned" ever. All that is necessary is a vacuuming of the substrate to clean up any leftover food (we are gonna get to avoiding leftovers altogether shortly) or waste.

  • After hearing about his living conditions, his condition upon death is less and less relevant. Unfortunately due to the nature of his home, he was going to pass quickly regardless of the cause.

  • Food! In the wild meals for bettas are sometimes very scarce! They primarily live off of mosquitos and mosquito larva. They will sometimes go up to two weeks without finding a meal. Because of this, they have no mechanism in their anatomy to signal when they are full. They gorge themselves on whatever they can as they may not have another meal for a very long time. It is always better to error on the side of caution of underfeeding rather than overfeeding. A good rule of thumb is that their stomachs are about the size of their eyeballs. For reference, my fully grown betta gets about 3-4 pellets twice a day. That being said he is quite large and feeding schedules vary from fish to fish. If you watch them while they eat you can actually see their tummies plumping up a bit right after they eat. Plump is good, too plump is not. Another safety measure that many people utilize is a fasting day once a week. Many folks will feed a bit heavier on a Saturday and give treats like blood worms and then will starve them the next day. This helps clean out their digestive systems that are very susceptible to blockages and bloating.

  • Removing leftover food is important. A helpful tool for this is a turkey baster. Any leftover food will breakdown into Ammonia. This is one reason many people like to keep shrimp or snails as tank companions as they will clean up the leftovers. If you aren't ready for that yet, just make sure you clean out the leftover food.

  • Omega one betta buffet is great food. Freeze dried bloodworms are awesome too. I generally save the bloodworms as a treat since they are so messy and difficult to clean up what they don't eat.

  • In reference to the buggy eyes, with a 1 gallon tank, no filter and no heater, there could have been numerous causes for his condition.

    I like to end posts like this with shots of my tanks. I do this because I just want to remind you 1 more time that my first 5 gallon tank was an absolute death trap for any fish that was unfortunate enough to land in it. I hope this helps!!!

  • http://i.imgur.com/lYu70ZW.jpg

  • http://i.imgur.com/qP7LmqU.jpg

  • http://i.imgur.com/lL2M7xw.jpg

  • http://i.imgur.com/Gkkywcv.jpg

  • http://i.imgur.com/MTDRF2N.jpg
u/standard_staples · 3 pointsr/turtle

I have 1 adult RES in a 55 gallon tank with about 40 gallons of water.

Zacro Aquarium Fish Tank Cleaner for Changing Water

This is what I've been using for years. Cheap and works. I use a 5 gallon bucket for emptying and refilling in increments. I pour the waste water down the toilet, and fill in the tub. I use ReptiSafe to condition the water before adding it back (inactivates chlorine).

No lugging the tank anywhere. No substrate to trap waste.

I recently invested in a Cascade 1000 canister filter and that has really helped keep the water clear for much longer intervals. It was about $100 but now I only have to do partial water changes once every two weeks, and I try to clean the filter every month and change the media on schedule. Much less work and totally worth the investment.

u/rwr907 · 3 pointsr/Aquariums

The side opposite of the plug wire is a removable cap. Take the cap off and take out impeller. clean both then reassemble and test to see if it works.

I would get a maxi jet pump if looking for a cheap upgrade.

MarineLand Maxi-Jet 1200 Pro Pump for Aquariums 3 in 1, 295/1300 GPH https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004IMPOJ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0y0PDb2E2NJKJ

u/captaindaylight · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

By air pump you mean like one used to inflate basketballs and tires? Found this tubing and air stone on amazon - is this what you meant? Just hook up the pump to the tubing and pump air in?

So the carbon filter is ok at 4inches but I definitely need a six inch fan? Did I understand that correctly?

u/Tyranitard · 2 pointsr/ReefTank

This + this+ this. I use this setup and it works perfect for me.

u/Oh_umms_cocktails · 2 pointsr/firewater

To be perfectly frank this recipe doesn't make much sense as an all-grain at all. If anything it's a relative of UJSSM, where grains are being added just for flavor, and are giving no fermentable sugars at all. I don't offer that to be cruel, good AG recipes are hard to find, just to say that wherever you got this recipe, I wouldn't get any more AG recipes from their. Here are the issues:

  1. Almost zero saccharification of the corn and very little of the rest of the grain. You have just shy of 15 lbs of grain going into 5 gallons of water, 8.5 of which is corn. 8.5 lbs of just corn is a reasonable amount of grain for that amount of water, but a 3lbs per gallon ratio of grain to water is completely unworkable. If that much grain actually saccharified you would have something the consistency of damp clay. Keep in mind that polenta, which is just boiled corn, is 1 cup cornmeal to 4-5 parts water, that's enough for oatmeal consistency.

    You can solve this by grinding your corn. Cracked corn is truly godawful for sacch efficiency. Corn has the densest of all starch reserves for any grain, but it accomplishes that by having an incredibly organized and packed in starch reserve which cannot be pulled out lightly. I don't know why cracked corn is so ubiquitous in AG recipes, but that grind size is, without exaggeration, several hundred times larger than what is workable by enzymes and boiling water. Whiskey; Technology, Production, and Marketing has the numbers on grind size but if you need proof go buy a lb of cornmeal and make polenta. It's the exact same species of corn (dent) but finely ground. Cracked corn is likely so popular because its cheap (less than 10 for a 50 lb bag at any feed store) and seemingly ungrindable (no brew store will ever grind corn for you because brew stores use either rolling or hammer mills which crush, and corn don't like being crushed--I know microdistillers that can't grind their own corn because they are former brewers and accidentally bought a fancy rolling mill instead of plate or stone mills). Rest assured you can easily hand grind corn with something like this. It's labor intensive but that exact mill lasted me 3 years of hand-ground 50 gallon ferments.

    You can absolutely boil that corn, but it's not necessary, 190 strike water is fine IF your corn is ground. Neither boiling directly or striking are going to get you a real appreciable amount of corn sugar.

  2. Terrible terrible conversion of pretty much all grain starches. That 20 lbs of DME is easily 2/3rds of your fermentable sugars by itself...and you only fermented about 2/3rds of your available sugars before the yeast quit. Either the starch isn't converting at all, or its partially converting but the beta phase is failing (which is a good likelihood as barley was pitched ONLY at 160f). The latter would explain why it passed the iodine test bit failed fermentation. You need to pitch both alpha and beta amylase to convert starch. Alpha breaks starches down into poly-saccharides, beta breaks polys into mono and disaccharides (gross but workable simplification). Alpha is happy from 150 to about 170, beta is happy from 140 to 155. Barley has both, so yoy can halve your barley and pitch at 160 and high 140s, or you can pitch once at 152. At 160 a good portion of your beta will completely denature leaving you with polysaccharides that are way to big for your yeast to eat.

    Sidenote: iodine should completely disappear with a good conversion. You should be able to add the recommended amount (everything will turn purple but not black) then shake for 30s at which point it should become such a light red as to be barely perceivable from the original color.

  3. This leads us to retrogradation. I couldn't give you an established rate of retrogradation, but it starts just under boiling and goes until alpha comes in. I can tell you that 2+ hours is begging to retrograde. Luckily retrogradation is easy to solve. High-temp alpha is cheap and widely available and can be added while boiling. If you're dedicated to converting only with barley, add a little barley just after boil or strike, then split the remaining barley and pitch alpha at 160-165 and beta sub-150. Alpha will denature at sub boiling but it won't denature immediately, and will give you enough time to bring the temp down to alpha pitch.

    That being said you still need to bring temp down smoothly and evenly (I strike, give it maybe 15, then cool to temp in about 30 minutes). 2 hours is too long even with the above technique. This pump plus a little 1/4 inch copper coil is perfect for the job (I love these pumps, I use these little 15 dollar chinese pumps in my micrdistillert more than I do my "professional" microbrew chugger--which is an unmitigated piece of shit).

    This brings us to the last piece of the bad conversion puzzle. Your instinct to add backset in during boil is right, in fact that pretty much the obly reason to add backset. You need to adjust ph down to 5.5 at room temp. 7 won't kill your enzymes (because they aren't alive) but it will slow them down, and between temp and the relatively low amount of barley you're using, they beed all the speed they can get. Get a good digital meter, strips are way too inaccurate.

    A good conversion will have the texture of flat soda (and you can easily get 1.05-06 just with grain). The kind of thing that isn't thick at all but if spilled will obviously quickly turn movie-theater-floor sticky.

  4. yeast pitch is a bit high, DADY is very rough and tumble but it prefers 78 and will make a much better whiskey (which much bigger hearts) at 68-72.



    Finally about equipment. A 10 gal pot is absolutely fine for cooking whiskey. You can get a big mash tun but it's going to extremely expensive for any size that's beneficial. You're much better off just doing batches and consolidating then in a big fermentor (and yes the trash can thing is disheartening, but unfortunately distilling is rapidly rising in popularity so a ton of people are trying to jump on the bandwagon and fleece people ready to start a new hobby).

    You can just add boiling water into a big fermentor and add grain but 1) you need all the boiling water all at once, you can't be cooling and then reheating, 2) you'll need to add some commercial alpha at grain pitch (the corn will clump otherwise), and 3) you should ferment on grain to make up for some list efficicency.

    The absolutely most efficient highest yield method that a homedistiller can do is boil the corn in the water for 2 hours (use a grain bag and false bottoms can be cheaply made), squeeze out the grain after conversion, then add 170f degree water back into the spent grain, squeeze out the grain again and then ADD THE GRAIN TO THE FERMENTOR (I have tested it and squeezing the grain a second time but still adding the grain to the ferment does in fact produce a marginal improvement in yield over both 2 squeezes no grain and one squeeze, 170f water, no secind squeeze and ferment on grain). But there is always a point of diminishing returns, like I said a 200f strike is plently efficient to be economical and while I could drive another 10% out, corn is much less expensive than time.
u/Fiishman · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

You're going to want something more like this.

The one you linked won't have good head height.

u/Kairus00 · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

Maxijet. Buy them online though, they're sold at complete rip off prices in stores. I saw a Maxijet 1200 at Petsmart on CLEARANCE for $42. Amazon sells them for $17.99.

I have a maxijet, it's quiet and has really good flow. I only use it as a powerhead though, there are a bunch of attachments you can use to make it a circulation pump, or utility pump. As a circulation pump it's garbage, way too loud.

u/reParaoh · 1 pointr/Aquariums

Thanks. I'll just buy some hose and some hose clamps... Seems like there will be less failure points that way.

You like your fluval canisters?

u/Relaxed_Engineer · 1 pointr/maker

I am working a similar problem to activate a pump to fill a tank. Two aquarium float switches and a relay should do it.

Here's the thread I started; a lot of the comments are relevant to you. I'm still wrapping my brain around relays so someone else will have to help you for that.

https://www.reddit.com/r/maker/comments/85g1at/float_switch_level_control_for_a_pump_wiring_help/

A little pond pump like this would probably do the job.

https://www.amazon.com/Submersible-Aquarium-Fountain-Pump-simulate-Environment/dp/B008OCZUK6

u/astraycat · 1 pointr/ReefTank

I've been using one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Eshopps-AEO19085-Float-Valve-Aquarium/dp/B00BUFV2GK/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1454118087&sr=8-14&keywords=float+valve

Pricier than a regular float valve, but super useful if you routinely fill several different containers.

u/jumpyman · 1 pointr/electronics

I have this http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Spec-Rplacement-Water-Pump/dp/B00DV66CB6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1415215106&sr=8-4&keywords=fluval+spec+v+pump

This is plugged into the wall. I want this pump to turn on and off every 2-3 seconds to simulate a wave motion in my fish tank. I've looked at timer adapters, but their fastest interval is 1 minute. I need something in between the pump and the wall socket to control the 2-3second interval.

u/American_idiot122994 · 1 pointr/bettafish

It's an aqueon. It's like, circular and has a hole for a plant in the middle and it hooks on the back of the tank and there's a circular cut out in the lid for it too. I'll see if I can find a link

Edit: this is exactly what I have except I have a real plant in there. https://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-Aquarium-Springs-Kit-gallon/dp/B00ZXAM32A

u/absolutbill · 1 pointr/Vivarium

Depending on the size of the enclosure will depend on the mist nozzle coverage. I have one pump for a dart frog viv and uses three nozzles, it is a 36x24x24. I also have one pump for two Chameleon set ups for my wife which are 4' X 4" x 3" with 4 nozzles each but does not require such high humidity.

I would say Mistking is the way to go. A little expensive but worth the money. https://www.joshsfrogs.com/mistking-starter-misting-system.html

https://smile.amazon.com/MistKing-22251-Starter-Misting-System/dp/B012IAK4SC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519816321&sr=8-1&keywords=mistking

u/garbagepilequeen · 1 pointr/hamster

He shouldn’t chew through it. For extra security, they sell lid clips for tank lids. Here’s a link to some on amazon. I guess they go by tank size, so these might just be an example for you.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016MDJH7A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ui.kDbX9D3CZR

u/BlueFalconPunch · 1 pointr/snakes

sorry no, weights lead to snakes getting loose and worse case caught and either tearing their skin or crushed.

u can get lid clips and they are much better and less dangerous.

https://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-PT2729-Terrarium-Cover/dp/B016MDJH7A/ref=sr_1_12?crid=3PJMD34Y9GSXN&keywords=aquarium+lid+clips&qid=1554852361&s=gateway&sprefix=aquarium+lid%2Caps%2C168&sr=8-12

u/MegaMenehune · 1 pointr/Aquariums

That doesn't make much sense to me honestly. You might as well just do frequent water changes. Or just order a UV sterilizer.

COODIA Internal Green Water Killer Filter Aquarium Tank U-V Light Submersible Disinfection Pump https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V26V5MS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7odqDb3JJ4AYK

u/BartyB · 1 pointr/Aquariums

I did not use any clamps.

This is the tubing

Eheim AEH4005943 Tubing 594 for Aquarium Water Pump, 10-Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BUFTQW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_wi4iTmaGWn7oR

This is the heater

ISTA I-H614 150W Inline External... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSFFTET?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

It is definitely nice not having the heater inside the tank.

u/elsjaako · 1 pointr/electronics

Here's some things I think you can do:

  1. Order an air pump. I saw someone in another thread linked to one on DX.com, that's fine, but delivery can be like a month+. You can also look for a USB air pump, there is one on amazon if you need it.
  2. Order a USB battery pack. If you want to do the least work possible get one with two outputs, otherwise any one will be fine.
  3. solder the wires to the battery adaptor

    Once you have that done, reply to this message and I'll see if I can help you further.
u/Imakedo · 1 pointr/Aquariums

What kind of filter are you using? There's all manner of kits available on Amazon.

  • Eheim

  • Uxcell

    I would be tempted to run two filters and feed into one joined spray bar. Sponge filters on the intakes will help keep the spray bars from being plugged.
u/t0x1k_x · 1 pointr/Aquariums

http://www.amazon.com/Marineland-ML90512-Maxi-Jet-1200-1300GPH/dp/B004IMPOJ8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422575961&sr=8-1&keywords=maxi-jet

Much more powerful, I used to use it for changing water, now I run a dedicated water feed and drain line to my tanks.

u/sloppymcnubble · 1 pointr/PlantedTank

You could use any sort of pump, dosent necessarily need to be a filter. I used one of these for a few days while I was waiting for the extra fluval fittings I needed to come in. You just need to be able to move water through the reactor.

u/vonbonbon · 1 pointr/Aquariums

Absolute cheapest way to get up and running is a $10 tank at Petco's dollar-per-gallon sale. You'll pay a lot more for a smaller tank, honestly.

5-10 lbs of rock for a scape will cost you around $10-20.

You can buy substrate or you can go without. Bare bottom actually makes it easier to keep the tank clean, although it affects the aesthetics, of course.

You can get a cheap powerhead for $10-15, although a better powerhead is less likely to fail on you...but it'll cost you closer to $25.

That puts you at $55 already, without lights.

I'm not really sure what you need there, to be honest. My "cheap" LEDs cost near $200, but I'm growing some higher light corals. If you stuck to low-light (mushrooms and zoanthids/palys) type stuff, you could get by with a lot less output.

Hopefully someone else can help you with an economy lighting option.

u/mehdood · 1 pointr/ReefTank

Didnt get a aqua clear 70 I got a Pen-Plax cascade 100. Size wise I think its smaller but it looks like it will do the job. I just added about 9 gallons of water the powerhead filter and heater, salted the water and am sitting at 1.025sg. Ill add the sand as soon as temp comes up a bit. Then rock in the next couple of days.
Current Setup.
10g Tetra Tank from wal mart w led hood.
Cascade Pen Plax 100 pump.
Cascade Heater 20g
Rio 200
Carib Sea live sand 20lb
Instant Ocean Salt
Im probably going to upgrade the rio to a Koralia of some kind.

u/aniasx · 1 pointr/ReefTank

https://www.amazon.com/CPR-AquaFuge2-Hang-On-Refugium-Large/dp/B001F1ZNOG I've never had one but have seen people talking about using them.

u/joe_valeno · 1 pointr/ReefTank

https://www.amazon.com/CPR-AquaFuge2-Hang-On-Refugium-Large/dp/B001F1ZNOG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1500925384&sr=8-4&keywords=hang+on+back+refugium

Can two of these work?? and i got dry reef rock, read to many bad things about live rock scared since im just starting off getting stuff in the tank im not prepared for. I can also pick up some more rock from local fish store or order more online

u/plazman30 · 1 pointr/Aquariums

I saw that in a King of DIY video.

The valve that broke the inline one near the gravel vac. I took a chance and ordered this from Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000255NV4

I'm hoping it fits.

Also, got this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EUI01G

If they don't fit, I guess I am buying a Python to replace the Tetra.

u/mcphatty84 · 1 pointr/Aquariums

I highly recommend getting a set of quick disconnects for your sink connection. Over time, it's easy to cross thread the plastic which will cause leaks, especially since you'll be connecting and disconnecting pretty frequently.

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Python-Brass-Snap-Connector-Aquarium/dp/B001EUI01G

u/Battered_Unicorn · 1 pointr/firewater

Distilling water is the exact same process as ethanol just a bit higher temps. The pump should sit inside the bucket and the tube should connect to the bottom most port. The top port on your condenser will be where the water flows out, I personally put this tube back into the bucket as to create a looping system. It saves on water and 5gallons should cool your pot enough for a single run. By the end of a run the water in the bucket will usually be around bath temps so it's good to change this out if your doing multiple runs in a day. A valve isn't some complicated device lol, it just slows the stream of water or can shut it off completely while the pump is still running. This valve is cheap and does a great job.The valve is nessisary with this pump as the condenser bucket will overflow at max speed and as such I turn the valve half way till the water is constantly leaving the top port without flowing over the port hole it self. The pump I listed is a bit overkill but it leaves much flexibility for the future. It can pump up high distances such as the distance from the floor to the pot, and it can be used with any size still should you ever upgrade. If you have any more questions, feel free to ask. I periodically check my Reddit so when I do I can help ya out.