Best aquarium water treatment products according to redditors

We found 1,934 Reddit comments discussing the best aquarium water treatment products. We ranked the 240 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top Reddit comments about Aquarium Water Treatments:

u/Absentee23 · 32 pointsr/StonerProTips

Heres what you do:

Guide to the ultimate sploof

Get a regular gatorade bottle or similar, paper towels, a stabby tool to make holes in the bottom (I used the proper tool for the job actually, a 1/4" drill bit+drill, but an awl or a hot screwdriver will do fine), and some Activated Carbon (fixed wrong link) (also sold at pet stores/walmart pet section everywhere; that can will make at least 5 of these...)

First, poke holes in the bottom of the bottle, go nuts, more flow the better. I made 6 ~1/4" holes, more smaller ones would work fine, but bigger ones flow better.
Next, stuff a bunch of paper towels filling the bottom to about halfway up, making sure to block all the holes with it so none of the carbon could escape.
Once you have a good layer of paper towel, pour in a 1.5-2 inch thick layer of carbon and shake it lightly so it's even.
Now plug the top of it with more paper towel so none can get out the top, you want to make it so th carbon isn't loose and stays as a packed layer, so that all the smoke must flow through it. Now you're done!

It should flow through easily so you can blow out hits easy, and the activated carbon will absorb the smoke & smell! Eventually, it won't be working as well (like 2-3 or more months), and you will have to replace the carbon in it (I recommend replacing the top paper towels more often, as they get really moist from your breath.) I'd just make a new sploof at this point instead of pulling it apart.

This is a DIY version of the smokebuddy

You have to worry about smoke coming from whatever you're smoking from as well, and a good fan setup helps a lot. Also consider a vape if smell is always a major concern, you'll love being able to relax and vape.

Also, upvote for giraffe pussy

u/Oucid · 22 pointsr/Aquariums

Glad you seem so willing and ready to help your betta! Im gonna try to cover everything that you need to help your betta live a happy healthy life in one comment :)

Requirements -

  • 5 gallon tank+
  • Filter
  • Heater (5watts per gallon is good)
  • places to hide, like silk or live plants (your moss ball is a live plant/algae) nothing sharp and plastic plants can tear fins (ive seen it happen)

    Petsmart sells 5 gallon kits that come with filters and lids! A 25-50watt heater will work for a 5 gallon, preferably adjustable like the 50watt aqueon is common in pet stores and theres a preset heater that would also work the tetra 40 or something i think its 50watt as well

    You will also need to cycle your tank! Ill explain that a bit more below and include links.

    Fish-in cycling -

    Basically the fish-in cycling process consists of 50% water changes daily using Seachem Prime (preferably). Do this until your tank is cycled, which I’ll explain how to know that below.

    While cycling, add the beneficial bacteria directly into the filter daily.

    A good filter set up is something with low flow, it can be baffled if needed. For filter media (or the guts of the filter) cermaic bio media, aquarium sponge, and filter floss would be great. Don’t replace any of this unless it starts breaking down, then you’ll need to seed new media, but you shouldn’t have to worry about that for a long time.

    You’ll need an API Master Test kit, this is an accurate way to know your parameters (such as ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate). This is more accurate than strips, with test strips its super easy to get an inaccurate reading. The kit also lasts longer so you’ll get your money’s worth. I’ll include a link below to the kit.

    When the tank is cycled, you’ll test and find 0 parts per million (ppm) ammonia, 0ppm nitrite, and ‘x’ amount ppm of nitrate. (Dont focus too hard on what parts per million means, its just how this stuff is measured. Nitrates should be kept under 20ppm, they arent as toxic as ammonia or nitrites but can be in large amounts.)

    After your tank is cycled, you’ll need to do weekly water changes of 15-25% using a gravel vacuum preferably. Gravel vacuum/siphons allow you to get the dirt out of the gravel easily without needing to take it out. Highly recommend getting one of these! Its a necessity!

    • ⁠Avoid large water changes, it could offset the balance of your tank. Never rinse the filter media in tap water, that can kill the beneficial bacteria (which I’ll send links to explain that more in a second). To clean the filter inserts aka media, just take them out and swish or squeeze in old tank water till the gunk is out. You’ll probably only need to do this once a month or so.



    Nitrogen Cycle:

    Fish-In Cycling:

    My diagram/explanation on the cycle:


    API Freshwater Master Test Kit 800-Test Freshwater Aquarium Water master Test Kit

    Seachem Prime Fresh and Saltwater Conditioner - Chemical Remover and Detoxifier 100 ml

    Northfin Food Betta Bits 1Mm...

    This is the best quality pellet I’ve found, here’s why:

    • ⁠Nutritious, includes whole ingredients
    • ⁠No fillers, hormones, or artificial pigments
    • ⁠Packed with proteins, amino acids, vitamins, and minerals
    • ⁠Floating pellets, roughly 1mm (they float for a bit then drop, my bettas chase them down)
    • ⁠Easily digestible to promote optimal nutrient absorption
    (This stuff is advertised by seller, but if you read the labels its all good)

    Helpful other supplies:

    Seachem Stability Fish Tank Stabilizer - For Freshwater and Marine Aquariums 500 ml

    (Bacteria in a bottle, it’ll help speed up the cycling process but it is optional)

    Gravel Vacuum/Siphon

    (Of course you don’t need this specific one, I just chose the best seller off Amazon as an example of what to look for. The local pet store should have these for around $10)

    How-To Gravel Vac:
u/Silver_kitty · 21 pointsr/Aquariums

I flipped through the 23 pages of "Pet supplies" and selected every fish-related item I saw. Times are in EDT.
Prime Day Fish Deals:

API Products:

u/Dd7990 · 20 pointsr/bettafish

Umm.. ok. Unfortunately, if that bowl is Liam’s permanent home, he won’t have the really great life that he deserves. No living fish should be forced to live in such a tiny bowl/tank permanently.

A 5gallon is the recommended minimum tank size to give your new pal the best possible quality of life... You can keep him TEMPORARILY in the bowl but you’ll need to change the water DAILY with fresh dechlorinated water (or pure spring water works too but is a bit more costly) since such a small container is going to foul up fast. Remove any leftover food/waste ASAP as soon as you see it.

A larger tank is going to be more stable and better for the betta in the long run. I really hope you’ll upgrade him sooner rather than later.

Some cheap ones can be had: (manually click on and select the 5gal. It’s going for around $31.99 at the time of this comment) (be sure to get the 5gal. version currently priced at $25.99 at the time of this comment, DO NOT USE THE DIVIDER, I’m linking you this tank with the intent that you only put one betta in it, 5g for one single betta).

I recommend a sponge filter which isn’t included in those kits but would be gentler/more effective for a betta than those filters included in the tank kits. Also recommended a 25w heater (assuming you go for 5 g tank) with a manual temperature control knob since preset heaters are not accurate.

Once you have the 5g tank, sponge filter, and proper heater, you need to do Fish-in Nitrogen Cycle:

Must Have Items for your Nitrogen Cycling process + Additional Info: <-- Beneficial Bacteria blend, add 2x-3x the recommended amount of this directly into the filter, filter media, & tank water, especially after a water change. Add the bene-bacteria on a DAILY basis, for up to a week or longer if you like. Don't worry about "overdosing" on Bene-bacteria, the more the better when trying to kickstart a nitrogen cycle. <--Best water conditioner, also temporarily binds ammonia into less harmful form. <--- ABSOLUTELY MUST HAVE, VERY IMPORTANT, liquid water parameters test kit. Three main things to check daily or every-other-day: Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate. Not cycled will read 0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrite, 0 Nitrate. Cycling in progress will read some ammonia and/or some nitrite, but little or no nitrate. Fully Cycled will read 0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrite, and 5-10 ppm of Nitrate, then when nitrate reaches 15-20 ppm in a cycled tank a water change is necessary to reduce said nitrates. ​

Other stuff:

Also... try getting NorthFin Betta Bits, they're one of the best pellets with high quality ingredients, little or no fillers, and absolutely no nasty toxic preservatives. My bettas love them so much that they inhale them like it's drugs for a drug addict or something LOL (or exactly like Kirby)!

Beware of overfeeding, which is equally bad for bettas (they are gluttons and would eat till they burst if given the chance) (save this pic for reference, feed betta as much as makes his belly match between 1st and 2nd photo, then let him digest back down to a normal belly before feed again.)

Filter - any as long as it have adjustable flow (or else you can make a baffle if the flow is too strong, google about that), or many here recommend a basic Sponge-Filter to have a gentle water output that won't be stressful and push the betta all around the tank (the ones with big fins have a hard time with strong currents in their tank).

Heater - Any heater, following the 5-watt-per-gallon power rating rule, with a manual knob for setting temperature (so for example 5g you want at least 25watt heater), don't go for preset heaters (they're not very accurate). Bettas like 78-80F (25-27C).

Plants - Bettas like to have a lot (like a jungle) of plants to hide in, swim through, explore, play, and rest on. Some beginner live plants that don't require special setups are Marimo Moss balls + Java moss, other live plants may have special requirements in order to thrive. Silk plants (cloth leaves) are fine too if you don't have a green thumb. I do a mixed hybrid tank; silk plants + lots of marimo moss balls + java moss. Make sure if using silk/fake plants that there's no sharp pokey bits, remove and sand them down if there are.

Decor - Bettas appreciate cave-like decor that they can hide in. Make sure there's nothing sharp on the inside of the cave, nor sharp edges or sharp parts outside. Avoid also any smallish openings that a betta can get their head stuck in if they get curious. Another nice decor is the ZooMed Floating Betta Log (for 5g or larger tanks), bettas like hanging out in there.

More info on Betta care & needs:

If after reading all this info it seems like more than you can handle, you should try to rehome him on r/aquaswap to a local aquarist with a big planted tank to give him the best life. He’s a living creature and you have to consider his needs as you are responsible for his quality of life. If you want to keep him, then you absolutely have to give him the best care and best environment possible so that he can live a long healthy life (bettas can live 3-5 years and sometimes more if you really treat them well). When there’s a will there’s a way! You can and should do it!

u/AlfLives · 19 pointsr/Homebrewing

Dryer sheets are for kids. Activated carbon is where it's at.

u/ZeroHex · 18 pointsr/self

Get some Methylene Blue and use it to make brownies from a generic mix.

It's non-toxic, but it stains your kidneys blue, so you'll start peeing a deep blue color. It eventually starts washing out and your pee goes green before returning to normal. Freaks people out if they don't know why it's happening though.

Just a heads up, when you mix the MB into the brownie mix the batter will turn a greenish color, but after baking they look completely normal. Freshmen year of college I left a plate of these brownies out in the common room of my door the week before finals. Oh man was that good.

Edit: Forgot to add - you'll need almost a half bottle (2-3 oz.) of Methylene Blue in the brownie mix to get a blue color, other than that it will just be a yellowish-green, which isn't nearly as much fun.

u/Femtoscientist · 13 pointsr/bettafish

It looks like his fins are still infected....

The following works really well:

  1. Put him in a hospital cup that contains 1 tsp/gal aquarium salt and a few drops of methylene blue. Keep him in there for 20 minutes. Methylene blue inhibits both bacterial and fungal infections on the surface of fish, very useful medication to keep around. It does stain very easily so do not do this on carpet or anything that can stain easily.

  2. Use a fishnet to move him to a second cup with aquarium salts only. This is the destaining phase.

  3. Return him to the tank. Tank should have an established cycle, filtered and heated. Frequent water changes (50% two times a week) would work to keep the water clean. If the tank isn't cycled filtered and heated the rot does tend to come back. If you have indian almond leaves those in the tank help with recovery as well.

    I repeat the treatment 1-2X a week until I begin to see growth on the fins :)

u/Hubble_tea · 13 pointsr/bettafish

Since you are trying to learn as much as you can, here are my simple guidelines!


-heater (3-5 Watts per gallon)
-tank 2.5 + ( bigger the better )

  • 3 living plants or more


    -water change 25% small tank& 10% for larger every other week
    -plant fertilizer ( liquid and/or tabs )
    -quality pellets ( I recommend this )
u/BrilliantNova · 12 pointsr/shrimptank

I was in your shoes not too long ago, it's overwhelming! Here's a list of things that I bought, but I am not an expert so if others have better input go for that:


  • 10 gallon tank with hood
  • Broad Spectrum Light The one that came with the hood did not provide enough for the plants, you definitely need to invest in a broad spectrum bulb.
  • CaribSea Flora Max Substrate I learned that shrimp prefer darker color substrate, this was worth the investment! My shrimp were so unhappy with cheap gravel, after switching to this substrate they are very active.
  • Air pump
  • Sponge filter
  • Heater, maybe optional for you?
  • Thermometer
  • Gallon Bucket
  • Siphon
  • Seachem Prime Because it's a smaller tank, I ended up poking a pinhole sized hole in the seal so that I could use it as drops rather than pouring it in.
  • [Seachem Stability] ( Use this while you're cycling your tank, follow the instructions.
  • API Test Kit
  • Feeding Tray For the longest time I was really confused as to how the feeding tray worked, you can either get a tube or pre-soak the pellets and then drop them into the tray using long tweezers. This will help prevent ammonia/nitrite spikes.
  • Long Tweezer Set
  • Pellets Do also feed them blanched vegetables, make sure to peel the skin and buy organic to avoid chemicals/pesticides
  • Timer Outlet Worth the investment! So you don't have to keep remembering to turn the light on and off.

    Shop for whatever is cheaper, I have a huge heater because I had an extra one from before. I've read that it's not necessary but also have read that if you want them to breed you need to stimulate warm water. For now, I keep the heater off and leave it at room temperature of 72F. They seem very happy! Most important in my opinion, add plenty of plants and a marimo ball or 2.

    Lastly, I'm unsure of the siphon, I think it's good to have a bucket and siphon just in case your water parameters are looking bad so you are prepared to do a water change. From what I read, shrimp have a very low bio load and should be able to sustain themselves. Make sure to do tests regularly.

    EDIT I just read that this is your first aquarium, so here is a detailed write up:

    Setting up your tank

    1. Find a stable top to place your aquarium on, keep in mind a well sunlit room will mean more plant/algae growth. Make sure it's sturdy and made for heavy objects, don't want to place it on a flimsy shelf or it might break! I keep mine on top a waterproof place mat because water drips are going to happen.
    1. Rinse everything as a precaution! NEVER use dish soap!! If you must sanitize, vinegar is okay. Just make sure to rinse thoroughly. Also, NEVER use any kind of soap on your hands before handling things, just rinse well with water. Add your substrate, I lightly rinsed mine as there are beneficial bacteria living inside the substrate, pour it in. Make sure it's at least 2" of floor. Your water will be cloudy if you bought the substrate I listed, don't worry as it will settle after an hour and be clear.
    1. Fill water half way, use a small plate and pour the water on top of that to avoid the substrate being pushed around. NEVER use hot water! If you're using tap water be sure to always use cold water. It's also recommended to purchase "RO water" (Reverse Osmosis Water) as some times your tap water can be too "hard". The best thing to do is use the test kit on tap water and go from there. If the kH/gH are very high 100+ you will need to use RO water. I like to place my plants and decor now while the tank is half full. Place in your thermometer, heater, sponge filter, etc. After that, continue to fill all the way to the top remembering to aim the stream on top the plate. Leave about a half to an inch from the top.
    1. Take out plate, plug in filter, add in Seachem Prime and Seachem Stability. Please read the label for instructions and dosage according to your tank size. Since there is nothing inside you can add it after you've added the water to the tank. Moving forward, be sure to add the chemicals in the water bucket BEFORE pouring into the tank.
    1. Turn on filter, wait for the water to settle and temperature to come up. They say shrimp can tolerate 52F to 86F but ideally room temperature water is best, this is where your water heater will come into play. Follow which ever cycling method you choose before purchasing your shrimp. This can take up to 6 weeks.

      After your tank has cycled

    1. When adding your shrimp, there are many methods, the way I acclimate my shrimp is:
    1. Put the shrimp in a 1 gallon tub using the water that they came in.
    1. Drop in a tablespoon of the tank water, ONCE every 2 minutes.
    1. After the water has reached 1/3 old water, 2/3rd new water, your shrimp are ready to be placed into your tank.

      Please don't skip the important step of acclimating your shrimp! They are very sensitive to water changes and this ensures that they will survive.

      Here are my water parameters, people have all kinds of ranges but this is what works for me:

  • kH: 60 / gH: 40 / pH: 7.0 / NO2: 0 / NO3: 20 / Ammonia: 0 / Temperature: 72F

    I hope this helps... again, I was in your shoes not too long ago, it was really overwhelming. But after a lot of research I think my tank is in a good place :). Other users, if there's anything in my list that seems incorrect please let me know!
u/dannydorrito · 10 pointsr/trees

anybody interested in discretion should buy this instead and put it into your normal sploosh.

u/Fayhunter · 10 pointsr/bettafish

PetSmart has a 5 gallon kit on sale right now. All you would need is a heater.
I also recommend getting the API test kit and Seachem Prime for dechlorinating the water. Some silk or live plants would be good too. Take a look around the subreddit over the next week or so to see what else you should get. But the tank, test kit, and prime are pretty essential imo!

Welcome to the wonderful world of Betta fishkeeping! 🐟

u/alexkitsune · 10 pointsr/bettafish


Okay, I'm going to save you from a dead fish here, alright?
Water contains a few chemicals for treatment to make it safe for us to drink, one of them is chlorine, in that same family...there is also chloramine.
These burn the hell out of fish's gills. Its dangerous.

Get yourself a bottle of seachem prime. Its a dechlorinator. This will make it safe your fish to even exist in the water.

Second, read about fishless cycling

Since it sounds like you're getting the betta soon. You can read about fish in cycling
You can use that handy dandy bottle of seachem prime dechlorinator to also detoxify ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate for about 48 hours per dose. ONLY PRIME DOES THIS, not any other dechlorinators.

You see, filters on fishtanks contain a happy little bacteria colony that takes fish waste (Ammonia) turns it into a harmful nitrite, then turns it into relatively harmless nitrate. It keeps your fish stress free and also, if those toxin levels get to high--it kills them/ or makes them susceptible to disease. You can check the levels with this test kit

Bettas enjoy low flow in their fishtanks because they aren't the strongest of swimmers. I recommend a sponge filter. They also like their tank between 78-80 degrees. So a good heater is a MUST.

u/TheToxicTurtle7 · 9 pointsr/bettafish

If you can get it, seachem prime will help heaps because it will neutralise ammonia for 24 hours and its one of the best water conditioners out there, also a master test kit will help you know how much ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and ph. If you do get the master test kit try and keep ammonia under 0.25ppm (parts per million)

u/flizomica · 8 pointsr/bettafish
u/TheShadyMilkman206 · 7 pointsr/bettafish

2.5 gallons is still extremely small. If you are upgrading and have the space for even just a 5 gallon tank it is a much more suitable home. They generally run $15.00 at petco/petsmart.

u/intangiblemango · 6 pointsr/Goldfish

A 40 gallon will be much better than a 5 gallon. Be sure to put a good filter on it. (I would choose an Aquaclear 70 if your mom isn't bringing you a filter). It will give you a lot more wiggle room since they won't get to be 12 inches overnight! People do budget stands made from cinderblocks all the time, if you're not getting a stand. I'd stick to bare bottom if you are on the budget. It's cheaper, safer, and easier to clean than any substrate would be. You can buy some cheap peel-off paint and paint the outside of the tank black and do something like this and it will look pretty luxe for not a whole lot of cash. (I would skip the live plants and do driftwood myself, since my goldfish seriously chow down on any plant life in the tank.).

For now, I would do daily 50% water changes. Drain half the water with a gravel vac like this. Add your dechlorinator (again, SeaChem Prime is the best choice, especially in a too-small tank). Add in water that is the same temperature. If you absolutely can't do a thermometer, feel the water and make sure you cannot feel ANY difference. Not perfect, but it shouldn't kill your fish. I would still strongly encourage you to buy a water test kit, since you will be doing something called fish-in cycling. The toxic ammonia and nitrite are not immediately visible, but can cause serious damage to your fish. You want your parameters to be 0ppm ammonia, 0ppm nitrite, less than 20ppm nitrate. Yours are not going to be that, and testing your water is the only reliable way to know when to do a water change, and how serious things are. The best of the reasonably priced is API Freshwater Master, which is usually around $20 on Amazon.

Unfortunately, I wish that the practice of giving away goldfish (or any live animals) as prizes was illegal, since I agree that it is absolutely not fair to you to ask you to spend hundreds and hundreds of dollars on a hobby that you didn't intentionally choose and didn't know anything about until someone gave you a life to care for, and it's certainly not fair to the fish to send them home with people who are not prepared for them! I'm glad you are working on providing a better home for your fish.

P.S. I'm always happy to talk about goldfish, so you are welcome to PM me in the future if you have more questions!

u/how_fedorable · 6 pointsr/bettafish


I'll try to give you a quick overview

What you need to do before getting the fish:

Cycle the tank! probably the hardest part. You need to make sure the water is safe. Fish produce ammonia, which is toxic for them. Luckily, there are a bunch of bacteria that can convert it into nitrite (less toxic), and eventually nitrate (far less bad)! These bacteria will live in the filter, but first you need to give them time and food to establish a healthy colony. This usually takes a couple of weeks (Gasp, yeah I know, the waiting kills me too!), though the bottled bacteria thing sometimes helps.

During the cycling process you add ammonia (either from a bottle, or by letting fish food decay in the tank), and wait until it get's converted into nitrite and nitrate. During this process, you test the water with a test kit (LIke this one). keep adding ammonia, until it get's converted into intrate overnight.

After the tank has cycled, you can go out and get your betta!

edit: about the plants: Some plants are hard, some are easy. marimo balls (the green moss balls) are very easy to keep. Other good options are java fern and anubias (both can be tied to a decoration, do not bury their roots in the gravel!). Plastic plants can be dangerous, they can rip a bettas delicate fins. If you do go for artificial plants, get the silk ones.

edit2: waterpurifier is also very important, the betta specific ones are overpriced though. A lot of people recommend seachem prime, it smells kinda bad, but it's very effective.

u/MooseTheWizard · 6 pointsr/Aquariums

Too small for a bristlenose, and you want 6 neons (this tank is too small for them as well). I don't know much about kuhli loaches, but this is probably a tight fit for them too.

This is also a very, very heavy stocking for a 13.7 gallon aquarium. As this is your first tank, I highly suggest going for a small stock and getting a feel for it - solving problems with a low bioload is much easier, and will give you much needed practice for when things occur down the road.

I would recommend that you get solely a male betta for now. Your decor choice is good, and I applaud you for going with sand over gravel. It's much better, objectively.

If you can find them at your local fish store (LFS), pick up some Malaysian trumpet snails (MTS). They'll aerate the substrate and cycle waste into the sand, as well as eat uneaten food and decaying plant matter.

In terms of filtration, you could probably get away with an air pump and a sponge. If you have a fair chunk of money to dedicate to this aquarium, my filter of choice for tanks under 15 gallons is the ZooMed 501. If that is outside of your budget, an AquaClear 20 would be great. I would have the outflow disperse over your driftwood to avoid churning up your sand. If you need creative ideas, feel free to post here again and we can help you figure something out. The primary advantage of the canister is that it is dead silent, and comes with a spray bar which greatly helps to disperse the flow (bettas do not appreciate lots of flow in their environment).

I would do your damnedest to keep the tank out of sunlight, as this will contribute to rampant algae problems. It should have a dedicated light. You can purchase a clamp light and 6500K CFL bulb from home depot for about $15 total. Very wise investment, and this allows you to grow plants!

You need to keep the tank (for a Betta) at 78-80F. If your ambient temperature is not this, you will require a heater. My personal favourite heater for small aquariums are manufactured by Hydor. Aim for 50W for the set up. Here is a link to one.

There is a very good link regarding cycling in the sidebar. It can be found here.

While I do not know your water's composition, I would still recommend treating it with SeaChem Prime. This helps out with some heavy metals as well. While I am not sure if it will benefit you, it is fairly cheap and you'll get a ton of uses out of it for the cost. Hopefully someone with a similar water source to yours will chime in, as I myself am on municipal supply and must dechlorinate my water.

Earlier when I mentioned lighting, I mentioned plants. These are a great addition to your aquarium and your fish will appreciate them. For beginner plants, I would recommend looking into Anubias and Java Fern. They do not grow in substrate, but rather on decor and can be fastened to your driftwood with zip ties or string. They absorb nutrients from the water column, helping to clean your tank while providing refuge for your fish. I would also recommend a floating plant, as it will dim the lights and provide your betta with cover. Frogbit is great, and very cheap in my experience. It grows very well. None of these plants require you to do ANYTHING extra aside from get that light I mentioned. There are fancier alternatives, but they are not necessary for this set up with the above plants. I highly recommend setting your lights up on a timer and keeping them on for 8 hours a day. If you notice algae, reduce light.

I hope this helps. If you have anymore questions feel free to let me know. Really great of you to come and ask for advice BEFORE purchasing an animal, kudos to you.

Be sure to check out /r/bettafish and /r/plantedtank. Within you'll find lots of guides and extremely knowledgeable people. I would highly recommend reading the majority of links from the side bar in those two subreddits, as well as this one. There's a trove of information at your disposal. Here's a link to /r/Aquariums' wiki.

Finally, here's a care sheet specifically about Bettas!

Hopefully that wasn't too long winded for you. Best of luck in the hobby.

u/6trees1pot · 6 pointsr/microgrowery

I run 4 aquariums in my house and have grown indoor for a couple of years. My tanks are 80,55,15,10 gallon. I use a lot of water for those and for my plants. I use this and this for dechlor my fish water. I also use the same treated tap water for my plants. I have noticed no difference in my plants.

u/smishgibson · 5 pointsr/bettafish

The rust from the clip could definitely be a factor, but I would bet that ammonia toxicity is the likely culprit.

Please take a moment to read these 2 links:

The main takeaway from this is cycling your tank. Your betta "exhales" ammonia through its gills and its decomposing waste gives off ammonia. Ammonia is EXTREMELY toxic to fish and can easily kill them. Some of the first symptoms are fin rot and lack of appetite. When a tank is cycled you have a colony of good bacteria growing in your filter. Your filter pumps water through these bacteria and they convert the ammonia to nitrite(less toxic, but still toxic), then they convert the nitrite to nitrate. Nitrate is pretty "non-toxic" compared to ammonia and nitrite, but if it builds up too much it can hurt your fish. Most people do a 25%-50% water change every week to keep the nitrate from building up too much.

A second take away is your tank needs to be heated, a betta needs to be in the range of 75-80F, with 78F being the agreed upon optimal temp. I don't think your tank includes a heater is why I mention this. I not sure the best way to get a heater into it, looks like that may be difficult. EDIT: Looks like this user was able to had a heater. (

Regardless of whats going on, you will need a product like get a product like ( It will detoxify ammonia for 24 hours after dosing, please will make "new" water safe for your first. It also removes harmful chlorine and chloramines found in tap water, and can also detoxify metals.

So now, what to do with this knowledge? You will need to do several water changes to correct the rusty water and potential ammonia toxicity. First thing is to verify that your water is high in ammonia. You can either by a test kit like (, or take a sample of your water to a local pet store and they will test it for free. You want to test this water before you do any water changes. The reason for this is sometime if the water is REALLY BAD and the ammonia is high and the PH is low, the ammonia can be less toxic. Then you do a 50% water change, half the ammonia is still there but BOOM the PH is back up in the normal range and this make the ammonia SUPER toxic again and could shock and kill your fish very quickly.

If you verify the ammonia is high, Do you could:

  1. Dose your tank with Prime.
  2. Do a 50% water change with new prime treated water
  3. wait 24 hours
  4. Do a 50 % water change, but add enough prime to the new water do that it would treat the whole tank.
  5. Repeat steps 3 & 4 until the rust color is gone and ammonia and nitrite read 0, and nitrate is less than 10ppm.

    If your ammonia is NOT high, you can simply:

  6. Do a 50% water change with new prime treated water
  7. wait 24 hours
  8. Repeat steps 1 & 2 until the rust color is gone.

    And as a final though, if the fin rot isn't associated with ammonia or the rust, one of the best treatments for it is super pristine water. So doing a 25-50% water change (with dechlorinated water) daily until it resolves would be a good course of action.

    EDIT: I seem to have overlooked something. If your ammonia is high, that means your tank isn't cycled yet and that you don't have a good strong colony of beneficial bacteria. So after getting the ammonia and nitrite level down, you will need to test for ammonia and nitrite DAILY and be sure you are doing daily water changes of a size large enough to keep the ammonia/nitrite very near zero (less than 0.25PPM) and that the water is always treated with prime. Once the bacteria take over you will see the ammonia and nitrite will stay at dead zero and nitrates will rise. At that point you will only need to do water changes large enough to keep nitrates below 10PPM. This is usually 25%-50% weekly as stated above.

    I know you are worried about your betta, but with a few steps, I think he may be able to recover. Best of luck!
u/The_Lords_Prior · 5 pointsr/poecilia
  1. Figure out what size tank you have in gallons. If you don't know. Measure the length, width, and height with a tape-measure and calculate the volume here using this online calculator

  2. Go the fish store immediately, tell them the size of your tank, and tell them you need the following:

  • filter
  • heater
  • water conditioner


    Nothing fancy. A basic "hang-over-back" filter is all you need. Make sure to get one rated for your size tank! If you get one that's too big, you'll create way too much flow in the tank and it will tire out the fishies. This one on Amazon is rated for a 10-gallon tank.


    Again, nothing fancy. You just need a basic heater for your size tank. Don't get an "adjustable" heater because those take time to calibrate. Just get a "pre-set" heater. Pre-set heaters always keep the tank at about 78-degrees, which is perfect for guppies. Again, don't get one that's too big or too small. Too big will heat the tank too quickly and too small means the heater will get over-worked and eventually wear out. This one on amazon is good for a 10-gal tank as well.


    Tap water often contains chlorine to keep bacteria from growing in the pipes and making people sick. Its a safe level for humans, but it kills anything that lives in water (e.g., fish and plants). Water conditioner contains chemicals that neutralize the chlorine in tap water, making it safe for fishies again. Just follow the instructions on the bottle. Its OK to add the conditioner straight to the tank itself. As long as you have a filter circulating the water, it'll quickly make the water safe for fish and plants again. This is the water conditioner I use in my tanks.


    Employees at these stores often give some really stupid advice for more complicated issues, like the best way to make your plants grow or how to breed fancy fish, but they usually do an OK job with recommending the most basic stuff like a heaters, filter, and water conditioner. Its really hard to fuck this up because all of these products say what size tank they're rated for right on the box. Just double-check to make sure you're buying a product made for your size tank.

    Once you have these three things, just follow the instructions that came with each product. Its super straight-forward. When you finally have all of this set up, come back here and we can give you some more advice for the long-term care of your guppies.

    EDIT: Just to add a few things. The most likely culprit at the moment is either the chlorine in the tap water or the water temperature. If you used tap water and you didn't treat it, the chlorine that's often in the water is probably burning the guppies gills and making it harder and harder for them to breathe.

    If you did treat the water or if you're using filtered/well water, then the next most harmful condition is the cold temperature. Guppies are tropical fish and will die if left in cold water for too long. They can survive for a little while in cold water, but they'll eventually die if you don't get the water into the high-70s.

    Finally, the least likely problem right now is the lack of a filter. Fish excrete their waste directly into the water and over the course of a few days the tank will gradually buildup a concentration of ammonia. This ammonia will poison the fishies when the concentration get's too high. Conveniently, there are bacteria all over the place that love to eat ammonia and turn it into a less toxic chemical called nitrate, which is very safe for fish even at high concentrations. The filter provides a medium for these bacteria to grow and constantly circulates the water through the bacteria colony so the bacteria can constantly turn ammonia into nitrate. Once the bacteria colony is established, they convert the ammonia into nitrate faster than the fish can excrete more ammonia, effectively keeping the concentration of ammonia at a constant zero. All you need to do to culture a colony of ammonia-eating bacteria is to set the filter up using the instructions that came with the filter. Nature will do the rest: The bacteria are everywhere, so once the filter is going those bacteria will move in to the filter and start growing all on their own. Another benefit of the filter is that it oxygenates the water column. This is important for tanks with lots of fish, but because you only have two guppies, lack of oxygen probably isn't an issue.
u/[deleted] · 5 pointsr/bettafish

You’re gonna want to get a filter ASAP because his troubles are highly likely due to water quality - impossible to know without parameters. Yeah petsmart will totally test your water for you ! It’s a great deal since I know test kits are pricey !! :)

I’d recommend a sponge filter like this one .

I’d recommend feeding him some daphnia if he still seems to have an appetite and that should hopefully help him poo. The bloat might be a combination with his weak immune system from the rot and velvet, so hopefully getting him warmer and cleaner water will help.

He still looks to have some good weight on him and I’ve seen way sicker fish come back from way worse, so your guy should bounce back.

If you don’t use seachem Prime already I highly highly recommend getting some ! It’ll help neutralize the ammonia left after a water change.

I hope he gets better soon !!! Don’t hesitate if you have any more questions everyone on her is a wonderful help :)

u/lovethatbetta · 5 pointsr/bettafish

Also I saw that you weren’t sure what cycling is. A lot of people don’t realize what it is until after they get their fish, but cycling is important.

Basically the nitrogen cycle starts when there is waste. This can be in eaten food, waste given off plants, or fish poop. This very quickly turns into ammonia, which is toxic for fish.

Good bacteria then eat that ammonia, turning it into nitrite.

Nitrite is less toxic, but still very harmful.

Then another good/beneficial bacteria comes in and eats the nitrite, turning it into nitrate, which is not toxic in small amounts.

The nitrate comes out of the tank through water changes.

But in a newly established tank like yours, there is no beneficial bacteria yet, which is why it’s dangerous for the fish, because there is nothing breaking that ammonia down into less toxic chemicals. Many fish can get illnesses like fin rot, which is where the fins rot away from being in an uncycled tank. New tank syndrome is common, it’s when a fish dies from being in a new/uncycled tank.

Fortunately, you can cycle your tank, which is where you build up that beneficial bacteria. You will need a water test kit to test your water, and Seachem Prime water conditioner which conditions and detoxifies the water. You will also need to do some more research, here’s an article about how to fish-in cycle . Best of luck! I hope this made sense and helps. :)

u/extra_silence · 5 pointsr/Aquariums

Yes! Prime. It is the hobby standard and is liked because it removes chlorine, chloramines, and detoxify's ammonia. It is the only water conditioner you should be using.

u/Palmfrond11 · 5 pointsr/bettafish

He might stand a chance if he gets into a larger body of clean, conditioned water and you step up water changes.

If the fish is in a small vase, ammonia levels will build up very fast, which means he would need his water changed daily. I can see where you’re coming from but the acute stress of a new tank would be less damaging than the ongoing stress of living in dirty water. It has been slowly killing him and making him more weak. Imagine how you’d feel entering a warm, clean room after being in a freezing cold one with smoggy air. You’d instantly feel better even if it was unfamiliar.

They can survive in small water quantities but that doesn’t mean they will do well or live their proper life span. They are only meant to survive in puddles to get to bigger puddles, and make it to the next rain which brings fresh water.

I would say get him into a new, minimal 5 gallon container ASAP! Get a 5 gallon tote from a store if you can’t get a tank right away. It’s better than what he’s in. You can probably find a kit that comes with tank, and filter together.

Change out 20-50% of that water daily. Use a gravel vaccum to suck up the waste. Make sure you add enough conditioner for the whole tank, not just what you’re adding.

After that, read up on the nitrogen cycle, which should be enough to convince you to get a filter. A ~$5 sponge filter is fine and has a low current. You’d need an air pump and tubing for that. Or just get a canister filter. Like i said you can probably find a kit at a pet store that has light, filter etc for a good deal.

If you plan to fish-in cycle definitely make sure you have Prime, Stability and a liquid API test kit

Amazon has them, pet shops too.

Also a heater is important. High 70s-82 is the best for their little cold-blooded bodies.

Most importantly yes, your instinct is correct, get him into a bigger tank. Good luck!
I’ll edit and link some of the stuff I mentioned.

u/slowurxvt · 5 pointsr/bettafish

Thanks! I'll probably grab that substrate then, and look at some of the guides for filter recs.

For cycling with the fish living in the tank: is the idea just to keep doing daily water changes and testing the ammonium levels until they level off and stay near zero? This post recommends using bacteria like this to jump-start the cycling. Is this really as simple as just adding the bacteria and testing & changing the water every day until the tests are all returning zero?

>Is there a reason you're using spring water?

My mom bought the spring water but not conditioner so I had to open the spring water anyway to do the first water change, and fill the fish bowl. Figured I might as well use the rest before I start using up the conditioner I bought.

I really appreciate your help!

u/surfbogie · 5 pointsr/Aquariums

Unfortuantely you also got some very sensitive fish. Not that I agree with this method but if you were to get fish to try to cycle the tank and get the proper bacteria Danio's are much hardier. Tetra's are not hardy at all, they are extremely sensitive to water. The good news is mfskarphedin is wrong, you don't have to throw this tank away. But it's going to take some time to recover from.

Buy some of this stuff
Run a filter on the tank and let it go for about a month. After a month do a 50% water change on the aquarium. Give it a week to see if the tank stabilizes still. If it does, grab a few hardy fish going to have to do research for this one. I know that Danio's are like tanks, esp the zebra danios. My favorite of the Danio's is the gold zebra danio's a little harder to find but still cheap and very hardy. Overall if you do that and the fish live you can start adding other fish. Btw Danio's are schooling fish so they are better off in a school of at least 6. You can always take them back after you know the fish are doing well. My store takes them back at full price.

u/SillyCamper · 5 pointsr/Aquariums

First, welcome, I hope you enjoy this subreddit we have. The first thing to know is the nitrogen cycle. You MUST understand this like the back of your hand before getting a fish, otherwise the fish wont be happy, or it might die. Figure out what your tap water is, in terms of pH, and other things in the water. To test this water you will need a test kit. A really high quality and highly recommended one is this. You can also use test strips but I dont know any good ones. Secondly, the smaller aquarium you have, the harder it is to maintain stable parameters. Stable parameters means happy fish. A good small starter aquarium is a 10 gallon for $10 at petco. With a filter, light, HEATER <---(All of these are needed), it should be around $30-$40. Remember, this is a pet, take care of it. Yes, you can buy fish online, I would do some research and see if there are of good quality. Another thing to be aware of is maintenance. Maintenance includes water changes and overall health of the aquarium. Do some research to make sure you have a cycled aquarium (cycling refers to the nitrogen cycle, that needs to be monitored). Aquarium fish cannot live from just straight tap water, which means you need a water dechlorinator such as this. In summary, to keep a fish alive and healthy/happy you need: heater, proper size aquarium, filter, light,water dechlorinator, and basic knowledge of the nitrogen cycle.

u/BettaFeesh · 5 pointsr/Aquariums

You should not start out using any PH regulating chemicals. Especially so in such a small water volume. What's your PH from the tap? PH crashes will reset your cycling. I don't know exactly how neutral regulator works but it could be stalling your cycle. Have you tested your tap water before using a conditioner? Check it for ammonia, you might have chlorimines to deal with. This will make cycling take longer.

Too much ammonia can stunt the growth of your bacteria. do a 50% water change and get it down to 2ppm. Then get this:

Dose your tank back up to 2ppm ammonia once it's consumed, Once you start seeing Nitrite then you know your cycle is going

Are you testing with strips or a drop kit?

Get that pothos plant out of there, it's not aquatic and it's polluting your water. Most people stick them in the HOB filter so only the roots are immersed.

u/DominusAssassin · 5 pointsr/bettafish

I am using Dr Tim’s ammonia chloride here. It has dosing instructions to reach a specific concentration of ammonia. That being said, I am still working on processing nitrite and the tank has been cycling for about a month so be patient with it. Hope this helps!

u/Zooshooter · 5 pointsr/PlantedTank

You may be over-feeding. I got nematode worms from over-feeding my red cherry shrimp. I had TONS of them. Cutting back on feedings, vacuuming gravel (I had sand so this wasn't an option), and using Fenbendazole will get rid of them. They're unsightly, but they don't actually hurt anything. If you have small enough fish they will sometimes eat the worms but I went with the de-worming powder to get rid of them.

edit: Here are the worms I had in all their close-up disgusting glory.

u/Sneaky_Giraffes · 5 pointsr/bettafish

If you're looking for a more natural look with real plants I would highly recommend checking out Aquarium coop. Ive ordered plants from them 3 times and they always turn up bright and healthy. Plus they have a bunch of easy to take care of plants (I like my banana plant most) and they usually have a care guide for each plant. Or if you have a lfs check to see what they have. Plants like anubias, java fern, and the banana plant thus far have been super easy to take care of.

As far as decorations I currently just have a few large pieces of drift wood. I got them on Amazon, which could be a hit or miss but so far Ive gotten some good pieces. I have a 5 1/2 gallon for my betta and the two pieces I bought fit perfectly!

I also bought some catappa leaves (the mini version) just because I like the look of leaf litter in my tank, plus they add extra tannins which are good for your fishy! But they will turn your water a little brown (drift wood will too).

u/JustaBabyApe · 4 pointsr/bettafish

Looks like a physical injury. Maybe on a rock, or if you ha e fake plants.

You want to increase your water changes, maybe every other day. You want very clean water. You want to add a water conditioner that enhances slime coat available at most lfs. I'm not sure if you have a hospital tank, but since you have other fish I don't recommend medicating that tank, but melafix would aid in healing and avoiding infection. Have patience, it might take a while for the wound to heal, but in the mean time constantly watch it for an infection.

u/Jaimizzle14 · 4 pointsr/PlantedTank

Thank you very much! I picked up these from the Petsmart near me. I live in a smallish city, so I only have petsmart, petco, and the internet to choose from.

I know these have copper in them and that's not good for shrimp, but I already had the tabs in the tank when I got the shrimp. I'm wondering if the copper content is so low that it isn't too detrimental to them, because they don't see to be bothered by it so far. Fingers crossed.

u/mandym347 · 4 pointsr/bettafish

Lots of live plants are easy to do; my amazon swords, moss ball, and cryptocorynes are doing really well, and I suck at keeping anything alive.

Seachem Prime is the most comprehensive and money efficient water treatment I've found so far; you only need a few drops per gallon. I usually add 4 or 5 drops; easy to poke holes in the plastic lid for drops to come out in a controlled way instead of using an eye dropper.

u/foryeve · 4 pointsr/bettafish

Finally at work so I can give some links, lol

Here's a cheap sponge filter, I love these for bettas because they have a gentle flow and no mechanical intake for the betta to get sucked into. The bacteria will live in the sponges so make sure to never clean them with tap water or else you'll kill them! You'll also need an air pump and some airline tubing to get the filter going. I've used all of these and it's a pretty simple and cheap setup.

To actually measure the ammonia/nitrite/nitrate levels, you'll need a test kit. I know some people and stores use strips, but they are hilariously inaccurate. You can have levels of 70+ ppm of nitrate (which is usually deadly) and the strips will tell you that you have 0 ppm. The liquid kit also lasts a lot longer! Your tank is cycled when ammonia is at 0 ppm, nitrites are at 0 pmm, and nitrates are at 0-20 ppm.

To make it easier to clean his tank, you can use a siphon. It sucks up the water for you, all you need is a bucket/tub to catch it in. Makes cleaning a lot less hectic!

Just a side note, Betta are actually tropical (and cold-blooded fish), so they need a heater. This is good for a 10 gal, it's what I use :) You can also get a glass or electronic thermometer to make sure the water is staying at the recommended 78-80 F. If you already have a water conditioner this is optional but Seachem Prime is what I use as it binds and neutralizes low levels of ammonia.

Here's the sub caresheet/wiki, and here's a guide to fish-in cycling (which basically just means cycling the tank with a fish already inside). I know this is a lot of info/expenses all at once but if you ever have any questions you're always free to PM me! I'm happy to help to the best of my ability. I'd recommend getting him a 5 gal or bigger ASAP, and with clean warm water his fins will be healing in no time :)

u/ashleyasinwilliams · 4 pointsr/bettafish

Ok, so, don't panic. Here's what you need to get:

  1. A tank. 5 gallons is the minimum for bettas, but 10 gallon tanks are way easier to find it seems. I've found tons at rummage sales and thrift stores for $10 or less. Check out craigslist and/or /r/Aquaswap to try and find cheap used tanks in the 5-10 gallon range (or bigger if you want, there isn't a "max size" really). They also aren't really all that expensive to buy new either.

  2. A filter. Any old HOB or sponge filter should do fine. This one is $11.99.

  3. A heater. This one is $9.99 but I highly suggest paying a little extra for one like this so you can adjust the temperature if needed. To check the temperature, these thermometers are only $1.99 and you can find them at like any pet store with a fish section.

  4. Water test kit. You said you have other fish so there's a good chance you already have one, but if you don't, pretty much everybody uses the API master test kit because it's not too expensive and tests for everything you need.

  5. Water conditioner. Since you have other fish you probably already have this, but if not, I recommend seachem prime. It's super concentrated so it'll last a long time.

  6. Betta food. Self explanatory, the wiki on the sidebar has some suggestions on quality foods.

    So what you need to do:

    -You can transport the fish just in a little container, it might be easiest to just use the bowl he's currently in. Just try not to slosh the water around too much.

    -You can use some filter media from your pleco tank to "seed" the cycle in the betta's new tank so you wont really have to worry about fish-in cycling.

    -Read the wiki in the meantime, it can probably answer most of the questions you might have.

    I think that covers a lot, if you have any more specific questions feel free to ask!

    Edit: Formatting
u/Brownman231 · 4 pointsr/Aquariums

nah man youve got the wrong stuff trust me

this is the only conditioner youll ever need

u/Ka0tiK · 4 pointsr/Aquariums

Cloudiness (especially with a smell) typically means the tank is undergoing a cycle of bacteria. This means that the bioload the tank was presented with (whether the goldfish or mollies) was too high and the tank mini-cycled. You should see a spike in nitrites, followed by nitrates after this occurrence.

Try to buy a liquid test kit such as the master freshwater API test kit as they are way more accurate than strips.

Also, do not follow recommendations on that pamphlet. Nitrates should always be <20 ppm, ideally 0-10. You can accomplish this through periodic water changes with a water conditioner.

Nitritres and ammonia should always be 0 when tested, given the tank is properly cycled for its given bioload.

At this point you'll want to do daily water changes at the proper temperature and with water conditioner to keep nitrites and ammonia as close to 0 as possible for fish health. Cloudiness should dissipate typically in a week or less depending on the extent of the mini-cycle. DO NOT disturb filter media at this time, you'll only make the cycle take longer.

u/hibbert0604 · 4 pointsr/bettafish

I never imagined that I would be a fish owner, but I have found myself with one, and I have a huge soft spot for all animals, so I can't stand to see them neglected so I want to provide the best home the little guy I can! Here is the list of what I've gotten so far. Let me know what you think and if I have made any mistakes!

Aquarium Rocks

He already has ~5lbs so I figure 10 lbs should cover a 5 gallon tank pretty well.

Betta Balls

Gravel Vacuum

Seachem Prime


Heater for 5 gallon tank

5 Gallon Tank

API Freshwater Test Kit

He already has a betta log, betta hammock, a small decorative plant, Tetra betta pellets, and some bloodworms for treats. Hopefully this covers all bases for little Zazoo! (Yes, my gf named him after the bird from the Lion King. Lol) If you have any other tips for a complete beginner, I'd love to hear them! Thank you for your suggestions!

u/jlgra · 4 pointsr/xxfitness

Louisiana here, so I feel you. When you are trickling sweat just from walking from the car into the office, deodorant just doesn't cut it.

I've converted my sister, parents, several friends. I won't say you smell like a spring shower after working out, but it's not that sharp BO smell that stays in your clothes even after washing.

link to the stuff I use

u/AGrainOfSalt435 · 4 pointsr/Aquariums

I kept a diary of my cycling:

19-20 days total.

I did a fishless method and manually dosed ammonia. I saw nitrites after about 5-6 days. I didn't see nitrites go down until around day 15. I used Tetra Safe Start, but I'm not sure if it was helpful or not. Perhaps it was? I didn't use it until my ammonia went down to 1-2, as I read that high ammonia could kill the bacteria? I would have added it earlier but I had already dosed too much ammonia. And 2-4 for ammonia on the API Master Test kit are kind of close and I certainly wanted to make sure that I didn't waste the money I spent on the safe start.

I used this ammonia calculator to know how much to dose:

I used this ammonia:

I had plants in the aquarium and I think it was nice to get those started and settled before I added my fishies and would probably explain the severe reduction in nitrates before the cycle started. I didn't do any water changes on the cycle. I did a very large water change right before I added fish to get the nitrates down.

u/craschnet · 4 pointsr/Aquariums

If you don't have fish yet, pure ammonia is best. If you already have fish, feed daily and do 50% (or even 75% water change till ammonia and nitrites are 0 PPM and you see nitrates (unless you have a planted tank, where you might not see any nitrates at all).\


u/Wakenbake585 · 4 pointsr/Aquariums

You have to cycle the tank first. To start the cycle you need to add ammonia. Typically take around 6weeks for a full cycle.

Read this to learn how and why to cycle.

Here is ammonia drops

Here is API Master Test Kit which you will need to monitor water while cycling and afterwards.

u/GalactusIntolerant · 4 pointsr/PlantedTank

Hey OP so I hate to be a bit of a buzzkill here, but you might want to check out aqadvisor, I looked at your stock list and for a tank that size it would be severely overstocked and you would be dealing with a lot of aggression from your fish.

I don't know much about angelfish, but I think they're supposed to be pretty aggressive, making it difficult to keep with other fish. Some gouramis might be great, but they can get pretty aggressive too. I have one right now and he doesn't play too nicely with my black phantom tetras sometimes.

Oh, are you doing a fishless cycle? Remember that Eco complete has no nutrients in it so it won't leach ammonia. This means that you will have to dose the ammonia yourself, I know Amazon sells Dr Tims ammonia chloride that is suitable for aquarium use. If you do use something else, make sure that it doesn't have surfactants in it, meaning that it doesn't make lots of bubbles when you shake it, surfactants are harmful to your aquarium!

Since your substrate won't leach ammonia, you will need to make sure that you dose your substrate too or your water column. I didn't know this going into my tank and I am having all sorts of algae problems now myself, I think that I've run out of nutrients in the substrate.

You also might want to take your driftwood out of your tank and scrub and boil it for a few hours to make it completely safe for your aquarium. This will also solve your floating problem!

Anyways, that was a lot and I hope you were able to bear with me! I think that you have a good start and it's looking pretty promising. I think that you've arranged the driftwood quite nicely and I hope you'll post pics when it grows it. Looking good, I hope this helps!

u/cjeanne7 · 4 pointsr/Aquariums

You should look into getting it filtered and cycled.

Get something like this and put in some of this in the tank. You can hook the filter up to something like this. There should be more info in the side bar and check out r/bettafish

u/ijohno · 4 pointsr/aquarium

Those are definitely Camallanus worms OO. If you have a quarantine tank, I suggest you get one and put the guppy in it. Then try this medication:

The worms and the eggs can easily infect water, so also do water changes in the main tank.

Here's a good article:

u/swordstool · 4 pointsr/ReefTank

Urine aside.... what was ammonia at initially after adding the.... urine...? Was it higher than 3 ppm? 11 days isn't overly long. I used powdered ammonium to start a cycle recently and ended up with 8 ppm! Took almost 4 weeks drop to 0 ppm, and about 2 weeks before seeing any movement. What did add for beneficial bacteria? Something like this?

u/austindawn · 3 pointsr/RandomActsOfPetFood

My tank has been really needing this but I'm about to start a new job and haven't been able to afford it just yet.

u/AzarothEaterOfSouls · 3 pointsr/fishtank

If you go to a local pet store they might be able to give you some cycled water or some filter media that you can put in. Don't put a goldfish in there, it will just stress out your remaining fish even more. If you can, get some Prime and some Stress Coat and add them to your tank. You will also need to get a test kit so that you can check the water parameters in your tank. Once you know what the parameters are, get back to us and I can give you some more specific information on how to level it out. (If you can't find a water test kit like the one shown, test strips are better than nothing but I would order a kit ASAP.)

u/Jadis4742 · 3 pointsr/bettafish

Basically, you're killing him slowly. Ammonia (posion!) will build up in the tank while oxygen and other good stuff decreases. Imagine if someone sealed you in a 10x10 room and only let the air run once every 2-3 weeks.

If you want to save him, do this:

  1. Get a damn test kit.. You need to know what these levels are to provide a healthy enviroment for your fish. Test the water at least once a week.

  2. Stress coat.

  3. What tempature is the water in your tank? Don't guess - use a thermometer. Betta fish like water that is 75-82 degrees. Water that is too hot or too cold will cause them to become lethargic or worse. If the water is too hot, do more water changes. Too cold, buy a heater for the tank.

  4. Fishy needs a bigger tank. He may not be stressed, but depressed, since he doesn't get to swim or explore or do much of anything. 3 gallons is a good minimum size for a betta. But you'll need to do water changes once a week MINIMUM. It takes 15 minutes max.

    Invest 50 bucks on your fish, and you'll have a healthy, happy companion for at least 3 more years.

u/Paleclimber · 3 pointsr/Jarrariums

This is my first jarrarium, so I followed what best practices I could find through Reddit as well as the recommended Walstad PDF. Since this is my first time, I figured it was best to not analyze every single detail and just get a jar going. Best to learn from experience!

The night before I soaked the potting mix in water and attempted to clear as many of the twigs and sticks as possible. It was a bit difficult since I didn't have a hose, but it still worked. I let that mixture sit overnight. To start the jarrarium, I placed roughly 1 1/2 inches of soil lightly patted at the bottom of the jar with 2 root tabs to hopefully give the plants a good start to the tank. I'm unsure whether or not the root tabs were absolutely necessary, so I'd like to hear any thoughts on this and if others have done it or not. Hopefully this soil was close enough to the recommended Walstad soil;however, I was unable to find any locally. Once the dirt was placed, I set the zebra rock in the tank and then began the planting process.

In regards to the plants, I wasn't complete sure what selection of plants I wanted so I went with a mix of background, mid-ground, and foreground plants. I knew I really wanted to go with Dwarf Hair grass, so the others were just plants I had seen before. I started the planting process by placing the Vals in the back of the jar, Anubias on the right, Dwarf lily on the middle-left, and Dwarf Hair grass on the front-left of the jar. Placement seems off right now and the jar seems a bit bare. I'll let the tank cycle before considering whether a rearrangement is in order or if other plants need to be added. I'm definitely interested in adding a floating plant, but I'll need to do research before moving forward. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Once the plants were in the dirt, I poured roughly 1 inch of gravel in the back, and 1 inch of sand in the front. Water was treated with SafeStart and Aquasafe before pouring it into the jar. The pictures in this post were taken roughly an hour after I poured the water, which allowed the sediment to settle. There is still dirt floating on top of the water so I'll have to do a few small (10%?) water changes in the next coming days.


All plants were ordered through Planted Aquariums Central

Nymphaea stellata (Dwarf Lily Plant)

Eleocharis parvula (Dwarf Hair Grass)

Vallisneris spiralis

Anubias coffeefolia


Zebra Rock from Petco


2 gallon Anchor Hocking Jar

Natures care organic potting mix


Bulb (9W 5000K 800 Lumens LED Bulb)

Petco Aquarium Sand and Gravel

Seachem Flourish Root Tabs

u/Cerulean_Shades · 3 pointsr/Aquariums

Definitely! I don't do co2. I'm pretty low tech. Seachem Flourish Tabs 10 Count

u/Erutis · 3 pointsr/PlantedTank

These babies are what you want. They have done wonders for two of my sand/gravel substrate tanks. All stem plants are bright red or deep green and growing surprisingly quickly. I also dose flourish excel every other day.

u/imposter_oak · 3 pointsr/PlantedTank

Sand should be fine - you'd just need to get root tabs to place directly below the plants, since most of them are root feeders. You can either buy commercial root tabs like the ones linked, or make DIY Clay Root Tabs

Either way, you'll need to add some sort of root tab to your substrate for the plants. Lots of "low-tech" planted tanks use normal sand, so you'll be okay with that substrate.

u/Throwaways1999 · 3 pointsr/SpaceBuckets

A little more descriptive...

Smell may be a big issue for me so I'm trying to find the best way to fix it on the cheap while keeping the height minimal.

I think that intake fans are not needed if sufficient air is being pulled out the exhaust. The filter will be stacked as such:

-6" hole in bucket cover
-carbon mesh screen lays over hole

-6" duct vent collar screwed through mesh into bucket

-activated carbon granules dumped into vent collar so they sit on top of the carbon mesh screen

-A second carbon mesh screen is stuffed snuggly on top of the carbon granules

A. If I have an exhaust fan pulling out up to 240 CFM through this, will this be sufficient for air circulation for the plant?

B. Is the negative pressure effecting the plant in anyway?

C. Am I correct in assuming the negative pressure should greatly cut down on possible odors?

D. Other thoughts about this methods effectiveness?

Thanks for your time!

u/mmkayt · 3 pointsr/bettafish

I think it depends on how large you want his permanant home to be. If it's 5 gal or over, then I would worry about cycling it before adding the fish. I've heard that cycling anything smaller can be difficult to maintain, and I've never bothered to do so with my 2.5g tanks. Only my 6.6g tank is cycled. I do 2x weekly water changes with the 2.5g

If you want a large tank, I'd say get a medium size Kritter Keeper and set that up as his temporary home as your bigger tank cycles. Kritter Keepers are pretty cheap- around $10 and the medium size is around 2.5g.

Here are some of my faves:

I get these cheaper at my local Petsmart ($14.99)

Great for small tanks

This is what I heat my 6.6g with

Prime water conditioner

These are awesome silk plants

u/oliviac30 · 3 pointsr/Aquariums

Hmm odd that the water fizzed up. Did you rinse out the tank and rinse off the carbon and decorations before putting them in? The fact that you can smell chlorine is probably a good indicator you are best of to switch to a different water conditioner. (I like Seachem Prime.) Betta's like a low flow filter so just keep an eye on the filter or even switch to a sponge filter, or filter with a sponge over the intake, etc. Remeber to test your tap water too! I will link some products I have used or similar to those I have used in the past and had success with. (It may be a good idea to compare prices at your LFS store to Amazon, as I know my local Petsmart/Petco charges a fortune for a lot of aquarium items without much selection.)

API Freshwater Test Kit (Amazon wow $19.99 right now!) or at your LFS -Don't buy the test strips.

SeaChem Prime ($4-$13 depending on size from Amazon or at your LFS. I swear by Prime.)

A thermometer is a good idea to make sure your heater does not create a major issue. I do not use this exact one but figured I would add it to the list with a link ($2)

Here I will just attach a link for a sponge filter I use in a 10 gallon (~$12). You will need some airline hosing and an air pump (tetra air pump works) if you get it, though I think it may be a little big for a 4 gallon. Also, an aquaclear is by far my favorite HOB filter if you go that route. Hopefully, your filter will workout!
Tetra Air pump (~$7)
Aquaclear 20 (110V ~$25): This may be a little big for your 4 gallon, not sure as I have the Aquaclear 50 on my 30 gallon but I will add it along just in case.

Airline Tubing (a few dollars, great to have)

Household Ammonia without surfactant (to do your fishless cycle) see link

If you decide to go with silk aquarium plants, they have few fun options online. I would also suggest really plants as they will help reduce nitrates in the future. Some good low-tech plants would be anubias, or java fern (and some others). These can be tied to a rock or driftwood as don't need to be placed in the gravel/sand/soil itself. (A small clip-on LED for an aquarium should work
if you go this route.)

I would provide food options, but r/bettafish has done a great job!

Here are a few they have mentioned:

Ocean Nutrition Atison's Betta Food (~12)

New Life Spectrum Betta Formula (~$10)

Hikari Betta Bio-Gold (~$13)

You should be able to find frozen daphnia, and frozen brine shrimp at Petco/Petsmart, and live brine shrimp at your LFS.

Will add on later! Happy cycling and keep us posted!

u/Rottingunicorn · 3 pointsr/turtles

He doesn't look too big, but some can grow really fast. This tank size may last you a couple months while you look for another. Supplies that you need ASAP are the UV light/Heater lamp and more water with filtration. When adding tap water remember to treat it with a dechlorinator that also gets rid of heavy minerals. If you're looking to save money on a tank, wait for a pet store nearby to have a dollar a gallon sale, or look locally for deals on used tanks w/ accessories on craigslist.

I recommended a thermometer for your water and basking area because particular species of turtles do better at different temperatures. I'm not sure what size that tank is but I'm guessing around 10-20g and would do well with a smaller heater. Your filtration should be rated 2-4 times the amount of water in your tank, and have 3 stages of filtration because they can be super messy.

P.S. If you know what size tank you have, and what you're planning to upgrade to I could recommend you some tank media that would work for you

u/standard_staples · 3 pointsr/turtle

I have 1 adult RES in a 55 gallon tank with about 40 gallons of water.

Zacro Aquarium Fish Tank Cleaner for Changing Water

This is what I've been using for years. Cheap and works. I use a 5 gallon bucket for emptying and refilling in increments. I pour the waste water down the toilet, and fill in the tub. I use ReptiSafe to condition the water before adding it back (inactivates chlorine).

No lugging the tank anywhere. No substrate to trap waste.

I recently invested in a Cascade 1000 canister filter and that has really helped keep the water clear for much longer intervals. It was about $100 but now I only have to do partial water changes once every two weeks, and I try to clean the filter every month and change the media on schedule. Much less work and totally worth the investment.

u/GravityClaus · 3 pointsr/Aquariums

Yes, they are. Read the label here: Seachem prime

Prime detoxifies ammonia, nitrite and nitrate for 48 hours. A little more info can be found here :

I'm positive prime is detoxifying the nitrites, I just don't know if I'm doing the growth of my biological filter a disservice by doing major water changes daily.

u/roboto6 · 3 pointsr/bettafish

Okay, that helps!

He likely has something seriously wrong with his water quality given the size of the tank and lack of a filter. There's a decent chance what you're seeing is pop-eye which is caused by poor water quality.

The easiest fix would be to get him a larger tank (5gal minimum) and do a fish-in cycle. Pet Supplies Plus is doing a dollar per gallon sale. I've successfully gotten Petsmart and Petco to price match a dollar per gallon tank before so that may be worth a shot if you don't have a PSP near you. If you go the really cheap route on supplies, you could get him an adequate set up with a decent heater and filter for no more than $40. The key thing is you also want to invest a bit extra in a good water conditioner such as Seachem Prime and an API Liquid Master Test Kit.

I won't swamp you with all of the information on this process in one comment. The wiki and betta care sheet are both great guides to get you started. I also have an amazon list somewhere if you'd like my suggested list of products to buy. Small note that I don't know if the guide covers, you do want plants (either live or silk) and gravel as those help with tank health. Avoid plastic plants as they can damage fins. Silk is fine (most of my tanks are silk plants) but you'll just have to stay on top of your water changes.

u/Nparallelopposite · 3 pointsr/axolotls

I'll just give you my generalize copy/pasta I usually hand out in situations like these so if you wanna read it when you got a chance, then you have it! Also has tips and purchase links for Amazon as well for different axolotl stuffs.


  1. Set up tank with clean conditioned water. 2. Add recommended amount of beneficial bacteria per label

  2. Add "waste" to the tank, so a little bit of say fish flakes ( they're cheap and you need a waste source since you DO NOT put a fish or axolotl in a uncycled tank. The flakes are gonna break down into ammonia. The goal with cycling is to get benefical bacteria to build up so they can change (eat) the waste & breaks down the ammonia into nitrite then finally break it down further into nitrate. All these chemicals can hurt axolotl.

  3. Test tank a couple days later with a testing kit ( avoid strips, they will lie to you and give false results) if there is ANY ammonia or nitrite present, you arent cycled. If there is no nitrate present either, you arent cycled.

  4. If you find ammonia or nitrite, take 50% of the water out and add clean treated water. Add more seachem stability ( benefical bacteria) ( add these each time you change water. Even if it's cycled)

  5. Add a pinch more flakes & Continue to do this until your tank is cycled. Meaning you have no ammonia, no nitrite and a presence of 40ppm or less of nitrate.

    1.If your tank isn't cycled, you are going to chemical burn them with ammonia in the water. And they will suffer. Nitrate ( the final of the chemical process) can also burn the fish/axolotl. This is why we keep this number under 40ppm. If it is higher than 40ppm, change the water 75%.

  6. This beneficial bacteria lives in the filter. If you change your filter, you just ruined your cycle. Don't do this. If it gets nasty/clogged & you have to replace the cartirage, leave the old cartirage in with the new one for a few days so the beneficial bacteria can inhabit the new filter. If you can avoid replacing that, just rinse/gently squeeze out the filter in old tank water when you do clean the tank to keep from murdering the bacteria
  7. Letting the filter dry out will also kill a cycle.

  8. *NOTE: Most bottles of beneficial bacteria say they cycle a tank in a day. Cycling can take up to a month in some cases but usually just two weeks if you keep on it. This requires constantly monitoring, testing and replacing most of the water in the tank when you get high ammonia/nitrite levels. You need ammonia/nitrite to be 0 and nitrate to be more than 0. Definitely less <40. If all your levels are higher than this, or if nitrate remains 0, your tank isn't cycled.***

    So basically, cycling builds beneficial bacteria which makes these waste breakdown chemicals go through a cycle of breaking down into a less dangerous form which keeps fish/axolotl from getting sick/dying. ... Most new fish people don't do this. And fish store employees try & tell them just adding something like seachem stability fixes this. It doesn't. An uncycled tank is basically new tank syndrome and it kills animals.

    You still are going to need to keep an eye on chemical levels after the cycle..Occasionally different things can cause the cycle to "crash", like changing the filters or a high tempeture, or the filters becoming dry..

    Once your tank is cycled, and you have an axolotl, honestly it's not that much work. The cycles the worst part. I feed my adult axolotls once every other day, I change 75% of their water twice a month, and add water to top it off / spot clean occasionally two-three other times a month due to the water I lose due to evaporation.

    Stuff you'll need:
  9. Air stone+ airline+ air pump ( cheap ones are at Walmart.
  10. Seachem stability ( beneficial bacteria)
  11. Seachem prime ( it's a water conditioner I just prefer seachem)
  12. A tank, 10 gallon minimum for 1 axolotl. But the bigger the better.
  13. A filter
  14. Hides for the axolotl
  15. A syphon / water vacuum ( to suck out the poo/change water easy. I have a long food grade plastic hose I got from Ace hardware. I syphon and let it drain into the yard
  16. A bucket
  17. A Tupperware
  18. A fan. Literally any fan you can put on top the tank and point at it will work. I have a table fan sitting on top my tank and blowing at the water to help keep it cool. A chiller is best, but they are expensive.
  19. A tank thermometer ( don't get the thermometer strips, they lie
  20. A master fresh water test kit.
  21. Worms or repashy or pellets

  22. Test kit

  23. Fan suggestion

  24. Tank thermometer

    Air pump + line + stone.

  25. Filter ( basic the tank you have probably already has one)

  26. Shower poof ( hang these so they slow the flow of water coming out of filter. Axolotls don't like a lot of heavy water flow. Get these at the dollar store and rinse them before going in tank. You don't have to get these online. I'm just showing you)

  27. Seachem stuff


  28. Food


    Ice cube trays for repashy( frozen is better. It's a jello. It will really trash your tank. So frozen is better):

  29. Hides. Here's a good example..I soemthing similar. Just go to the reptile section at your pet store. Get one that's not rough but smooth. Plastics a good option. Just rinse it well before you put it in tank

  30. Water vacuum. This is what I have + I have a big long hose for big water changes. I use this to spot clean poo and "vacuum' it into a 10 gallon bucket

    Feeding tongs: They're actually tweezers for planting a planted fish tank. These can grip worms very well.. The Amazon ones that are silver suck and will make your life hell. Don't waste your money on ones on amazon unless you can find these on Amazon.
u/WhoaBuddyxD · 3 pointsr/aquarium

As far as equipment goes, get an AquaClear 20 (or 30) filter, an Aqueon (or other reliable brand, I've used Hydor with good luck) ADJUSTABLE heater. A thermometer. The lights you get depends on what you plan on doing with your tank. You're also going to need a water testing kit, a dechlorinator (most people will recommend Seachem Prime).

Is this going to be your first aquarium?

u/nottivagos · 3 pointsr/Goldfish

it looks like nitrate poisoning. are you sure you've been shaking your nitrate test enough? the instructions say 30 sec on the second bottle and 60 sec on the mixed solutions IIRC, and they really mean it. you can get much lower readings if this isn't done properly.

that said, i also do not think the answer in this case is to change so much water at once, because it will shock the little guy even more. you are going to want to change a lot of your water, but gradually over the course of the day.

i would also suggest adding a little airstone or two to help him breathe a little bit easier while you try to deal with this.

it also bears asking: are you using any sort of water conditioner? chlorine in tap water can kill the good bacteria that lives in your filter. tho that wouldn't lead to excessive nitrates, it can lead to big big problems fairly quickly, so if you're not already doing it (and sorry for the lecture if you are!), i would suggest picking up a bottle of Seachem Prime asap. use it every time you change any water!

u/SweetMamaKaty · 3 pointsr/Goldfish

The main problem is likely ammonia poisoning. Even though you have a filter, you don't yet have a "cycle". The others are correct that your current tank is too small, but the fish will die long before it grows and needs more space if you aren't able to keep the ammonia down.

The best product to get is Seachem Prime, and use it at each water change.

For now, yes change 100% of the water - daily - until you know that you have a cycle in place by testing your water with the API Freshwater Master Test Kit.

If this all seems too much to manage for a fish you weren't looking to own in the first place, you could always rehome it via Craigslist or surrender to a pet store. If you decide to keep it, you're in for a fun, rewarding hobby! :D

u/Larix_Lyallii · 3 pointsr/bettafish

There's also this tank from Petsmart, which is a pretty darn good deal for 5 gallons plus tank plus corner filter (I got the Top Fin 5.5 gallon, and it comes with a sucky hang on back filter that was WAY too strong for my betta Drax) or if you wanted something a bit smaller, there's this option. BUT, that tank doesn't have a light, heater, or filter. I recommend the Hydor Theo heater for the 5 gallon tank, and the Hydor mini for the 2.5.

As for water parameters, are you conditioning your water at all when you do water changes? If not, the chlorine/chloramines in the water might be getting to him. I totally recommend Prime by Seachem - gets rid of chlorine/chloramines/temporarily detoxifies ammonia.

Otherwise, having live plants can do a world of difference for a betta; they tend to like more of a jungle environment; as long as the plants are "low tech/low light" and get some light throughout the day, they should survive in a tank with regular water changes. And the best part about all natural plants? They don't tear betta fins! :) I'd recommend ordering some from or - both are highly regarded among the planted tank community, and their rates are super reasonable.

EDIT: The reason I recommend these guys as opposed to getting plants from Petco or Petsmart is because both of those corporations tend to sell mis-labeled and non-aquatic plants as true aquatic plants - I fell for this and ended up having to get rid of at least three of my aquarium plants because of my mistake. >.<

Also, if you get the 2.5 gallon and think you can afford it, I totally recommend the sponge filter + air pump combo for filtration; excellent biological and mechanical filtration once the tank is cycled, and it's pretty cheap to boot. Well, cheaper than other options. (I think I paid...$20 for all of my sponge filters - 4 of them - then $10 for 8 feet of silicone air tubing + a set of 5 check valves to prevent back siphoning. The main cost was the air pumps themselves at $9/apiece for three of them. So...$57 grand total for four filter setups? I keep shrimp as well, and they need sponge filtration, so I jumped in feet first, I guess. :P) Otherwise, Marina's I25 filter would work well also, provided your betta can stand a little more current/won't get his fins caught in the intake.

In the meantime, if he's fighting his reflection, it can sometimes help to put some light-colored paper on the outside walls of the tank; it can reduce the reflections he sees.

Golly, sorry for the novel of a post!

u/mithracula · 3 pointsr/Aquariums

the other option is this stuff I’ve never used it, but I have used a similar product for red cyno in a reef tank.

The last I had BG cyno was when I was at the end of cycling my planted community 30g. I definitely had nitrates(I’m not saying low nitrates don’t cause it, but they were for me higher then 20ppm), but I had no fish yet and went with Erythromycin. It didn’t kill the cycle and it killed the cyno. It hasn’t comeback, but I’ve definitely had “normal” algae since then.

Part of me thinks it can just be a phase a cycling tank goes though like diatoms. You’ve definitely done your research., and you know your tank better then an internet stranger. If it starts effecting the plants, I personally would want to kill it with either option and then with nutrients make sure it doesn’t return.

u/igloogarage · 3 pointsr/Aquariums

If it traps bubbles it's cyanobacteria. In freshwater tanks it's more commonly known as blue green aglae.

This product will get rid of it fast:

u/goots · 3 pointsr/Aquariums

When you expand, this might be a handy tool for you: AquaAdvisor

Right now, if I were you, I would purchase:

HOB Nano filter

Siphon Water changer/gravel vacuum - Carry your aquarium over to a drain. Keep an empty two liter handy to pour freshwater back in.

You cycled your tank, right? If not, you may want to pour some of this in there to help.

Water Test Kit Keep track 2x a week. Small tanks are more difficult since water conditions can go bad quite quickly. Keeping an aquarium is not about fish, it's about chemistry.

Spiral CFL bulb to replace the incandescent you probably have. Incandescents suck and heat your aquarium way too much.

Thermometer Glass, with suction cup.

Light timer Trust me, keeping that light on all day is only going to cause algae, and won't make your plants grow quicker. 6 hours in the beginning, 8 hours max.

Heater 25 watt, keep at 80 degrees. The gradient lines will NOT be accurate.


Low-tech tank care Study this, and pay attention to the dry fertilization part.

u/vally78 · 3 pointsr/PlantedTank

Thank you all so much for your patience! thoothsk is right, i should have given more information. I hate when people call me for tech support and say "my computer isnt working, can you come fix it" when they just need to load paper into their printer or some other equally as frustrating lack of detail. So here goes:

Pic Of Tank

  1. 5 Gallon
  2. It has a regular shop light style fixture that has 2 48" plant bulbs in it. something akin to these
  3. Aqueon Filter 57 GPH
  4. Eco Complete Substrate I think i am going to switch substrate. I do not like the eco complete. I rinsed it and rinsed it, but it still gives off dust particles. BUT the substrate shouldn't really matter, since the java fern are not planted in the substrate, right?
  5. Liquid CO2 -yes, i know this isnt ideal, but i plan on taking this tank to work eventually, and a big rig of co2 stuff isnt going to work
  6. Flourish and Leaf Zone doses weekly based on the guidelines on the bottle for a 5 gallon tank. I alternate days so i am not doing both of these on the same day.
    1.10G Heater so the temp is about 78

    So, i think that is all the answers, and again. Thank you for your patience. I should have given more details.

    My main question is should i throw these 6 java fern plants out, or are they salvageable in the condition they are in, if i give them time? I believe i will not order from this vendor again.

    EDIT: i have no fish in the tank. :) I have a 55G tank that i used to put lots of fake plants in because i love the look of plants, so this 5 gallon is my attempt at starting plants first. Fish when allll is well.

    EDIT 2:
  • pH Level – NORMAL RANGE: but usually a bit on the higher end of normal. IL had hard water
  • Chlorine – NORMAL RESULTS: 0.0 mg/L When i do water changes, i put in Tap Water Conditioner
  • Ammonia – NORMAL RESULTS: 0 mg/L
  • Nitrite – NORMAL RESULTS: about .3 mg/L
  • Nitrate – NORMAL RANGE: about 20 mg/L
  • Hardness – NORMAL RANGE: a little on the high side because IL has hard water.
u/suliformes · 3 pointsr/Aquariums
u/archaic37 · 3 pointsr/Aquariums

Craigslist probably has a good amount of tank options especially in the bay area. San Francisco water should be fairly clean, test it to find out what it is out of tap most people will just use a de-chlorinator water conditioner
or you can get a reverse osmosis machine (RO/DO)

I have found that petco and petsmart actually have decent tank stands and some tanks but just google search aquarium stores in your area here is one but its concord I do not know where in the bay area you are so that may be a long drive.

You may find bowfronts are what you would like if you want depth, otherwise I would just call up places in the area for square acrylic tanks.

u/CubbieBlue66 · 3 pointsr/Aquariums

First-timer in over his head here. Could use an assist with setup. The ultimate goal is setting up something my (soon-to-be) 2 year old daughter will enjoy watching.

Planning on purchasing:

Tank & Stand: Aqueon 45G tank ensemble - $250

Light: LED - Included with tank

Filter: MarineLand Penguin 200 Power Wheel - $21

Heater: Orlushy Submersible Aquarium Heater 150W - $18

Python: Python No Spill Clean and Fill Aquarium Maintenance System - $40, 24 inch adapter - $10, [hook] ( - $20, and this adapter for my non-threaded faucet - $12

Conditioner: [API Water Conditioner] ( - $7

Bacteria: [API Quick Start] ( - $4

Test Kits: [API 5-in-1 Test Strips] ( - $26

That takes me up to $408. That leaves me about $100-150 in the budget my wife gave me to get decorations and the fish themselves. (It was supposed to be $500, but we always go slightly over budget)

Any recommendations on large and colorful fish that could attract and keep a toddler's attention? Preferably peaceful.

Any other recommended tweaks to the build? I haven't purchased anything yet, so I'm willing to completely scrap this and start over if somebody has a better idea of how to use the money.

u/holtzmanned · 3 pointsr/bettafish

Get a [check valve](Marina Plastic Check Valve for the sponge filter/air pump tubing so the water doesn’t go back into the pump.

You need an [API freshwater master test kit](API FRESHWATER MASTER TEST KIT 800-Test Freshwater Aquarium Water Master Test Kit to keep track of ammonia/nitrite/nitrate as you cycle your tank and throughout the life of your tank.

[Dr. Tim’s ammonium chloride](DrTim's Aquatics Ammonium chloride - 2 oz bottle is optional because you can buy pure ammonia for cheaper at the grocery store, but I used it. It’s an easy way to start and maintain your fishless cycle. Just add 4 drops per gallon of water to bring the ammonia up to 2ppm.

u/echoskybound · 3 pointsr/bettafish

I would actually establish his 5-gallon tank with a fishless cycle, and set him up a small temporary "hospital tank" to treat the fin rot in the meantime.

I always prefer to move my fish to a small, bare tank for medication that doesn't have an established filter, because medication can crash your cycle. So for his permanent home, I would start on a fishless cycle by setting everything up with the gravel, filter, etc and add some ammonia like this to get the fishless cycle going. You can follow the directions on the bottle and use your water test kit to test for ammonia in the water to determine when the cycle has established, and ammonia levels are safe again.

While the tank is cycling, set up a medicated hospital tank (in fact you can do this now before you set up his man tank so that you can start treating his fin rot before it gets too severe.) Set up a small bare tank with a heater set to about 80 degrees fahrenheit/about 26 celcius. Add a little freshwater aquarium salt, and dose an antibacterial medication like Melafix for the fin rot.

Hospital tanks shouldn't have carbon filters, since carbon will just remove medications. You simply need to do daily water changes with clean, treated water (I recommend Seachem Prime for dechlorination and removing heavy metals. Even better if the water is also carbon filtered.) Remember when you change water you have to add medication and salt back in. You can add a small sponge filter to a hospital tank if you want just to keep water flowing and to filter out debris, I use this little filter for my hospital tank.

Lastly, but still very important: When you move him, you'll have to acclimate him slowly. Bag him up in a Ziplock bag with the water from his vase. Float the bag in the hospital tank (preferable already at 80 degrees) so that he can slowly acclimate to the temperature, and add a little bit of the hospital tank water to his bag every 5 to 10 minutes. I would take about 30 minutes to let him acclimate before releasing him in the tank. Acclimation is important because temperature and parameter change can cause shock.

What a tough little guy. I'm impressed he's been able to pull through in these terrible conditions. That water must be absolutely toxic. Best of luck to you in helping him pull through!

u/smallwhitegirl · 3 pointsr/Aquariums

I've heard good things about this stuff but be aware that if you test your water using the API freshwater kit it won't be able to detect the low ammonium levels (NH4) only ammonia (NH3) so I would just follow the directions on the bottle and only test for nitrites.

u/apistia714 · 3 pointsr/Aquariums

it's my pleasure. you can find plain ammonia at wal-mart. just make absolutely certain-- CERTAIN-- you only use ammonia that is free from dyes, fragrances, and surfactants (soap). you can also buy this it's unspoiled ammonia in a dropper bottle. also make sure you have this don't use strips for testing as they're unreliable.

u/MiniMoose12 · 3 pointsr/Aquariums

Then it was likely just widely different water parameters. Anyways if you want to seed ammonia I recommend this 6$ thing off amazon. . Yeah it's a smallish container compared to what you can buy in stores, but finding straight ammonia is pretty hard. (Alot of them have soap and crap in them). This stuff works pretty good for seeding it. Im currently cycling two 10g with it right now.

Also throwing fish in to seed ammonia is being impatient lol. You're risking fish for the benefit of not having to wait 3-6 weeks.

u/t0mbombadil · 3 pointsr/bettafish

Thank you!

Mr. Aqua 12g Long Tank (standard glass)

Keynice Digital Thermometer

NICREW ClassicLED Plus

Hygger Submersible Heater

Fluval C2 Power Filter

Dr. Tims Ammonia Chloride (for cycling)

Vintage Dark Brown Console Table (for stand)

(Seachem Flourite, Standard Aquarium Gravel, Polished River Rocks, Black Glass Rock, Blue Glass Rock)

(Monte Carlo, Dwarf Hair Grass, Red Pearl Amazon Sword)

u/unicornbomb · 3 pointsr/shrimptank

I just treated one of my tanks for this -- I used fenbendazole powder for aquariums, bought off amazon. Its the active ingredient in many dog and cat dewormers.

I used 1/2 packet to dose 10 gallons, so split each packet accordingly - it doesnt have to be exact as its pretty harmless to fish and shrimp. Just get a little tank water in a small container like a clean pill bottle, sprinkle in the powder, and shake so it all dissolved, then pour it back into the tank. Repeat 48 hours later.

They will burrow into the substrate to try to avoid the medication, so the trick I used was to feed right before dosing the dewormer to coax them out of the substrate.

I didnt do a water change between, but you may want to in such a small tank since dead/dying planaria could cause an ammonia spike. It worked perfectly -- I havent seen a single worm since and didnt lose any shrimp, fish, or snails.

Honestly, one of the easier problems to tackle. :)

u/remthekiller · 2 pointsr/Koi_Keepers

When doing a water change you have to add something that will remove that chlorine from the water, otherwise it will kill your beneficial bacteria. I personally recommend Stress Coat, but there are other good products out there.

u/mollymalone222 · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

I don't know if I gave you this link before, but you can do sand and use a gravel vac if you use this narrower one. I have 4 or 5 of them since all mine have sand in them. If you buy the 20 lb bag it's cheaper than getting the smaller bags (of sand).

I'd go for the Stress Coat vs just that water conditioner. To save $, just use a razor blade lol. If it rusts, toss it. Much cheaper. There used to be one for 4.20 but I can't find it anymore. This seems to be the cheapest I could find. Did I say if you sign up for Subscribe and Save for the API Test Kit, it's cheapest, and then after you get it you can cancel it.

u/Simpsoid · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

Prime "Prime® is the complete and concentrated conditioner for both fresh and salt water. Prime® removes chlorine, chloramine and ammonia."

CrystalClear Vanish Dechlorinator "CrystalClear Vanish Dechlorinator, when used as directed, will safely & effectively remove chlorine, choramine, ammonia, heavy metals & add a stress coat protectant for fish. Has a three year shelf life."

API Stress Coat Plus "Also works instantly to remove chlorine, chloramines and ammonia from tap water."

As well as the no-name LFS brand I use which says "Removes Chlorine, Chloramine and Ammonia from town tap water". A 2 minute look at Google gave me that information.

u/uh_ohh_cylons · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

Is your water softener something that removes the chlorine in the water? I've heard some people say they believe that if you leave water out for twenty-four hours, the chlorine will go away, but I don't really think that's true. To be safe, you should use a water conditioner like Stress Coat:

Also, neons and tetras are schooling fish, and won't feel safe in pairs. You need 5-6 neons together for them to thrive, and your tank is too small to accommodate them. Really about all you can have in your 2.5 gallon is a betta (and some folks say 5 gallons is the minimum for bettas) or some shrimp (ghost shrimp and red cherry shrimp are really cool!). I recommend to help figure out how many critters a tank can hold.

EDIT: Just saw your post below. I have been using Stress Coat, it's great!

u/jynnjynn · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

Basically fertilizer tablets that you bury beneath the substrate to provide nutrients for plants when you have an inert substrate like sand or gravel.

There are several commercially available types, (I personally prefer seachem flourish tabs ) or many people make their own by filling gel caps with osmocote +

u/lucasnarsta · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

Well, they’re root feeder plants, so you will either need a plant specific substrate, or root tabs Seachem Flourish Tabs 10 Count

I personally have one with just sand substrate with root tabs and it’s doing amazing

I just have an led light that came with a shitty like starter pack aquarium thing and all my plants are doing great. Here are some plants I recommend;

Amazon sword
Java fern
Java moss

These are all low light plants and only the amazon sword feeds from the roots, so all the others you could either plant them in regular substrate (gravel or sand) or attach them to something or let them float. Btw tho anubias is a great plant but it has like a kind of bar/divider thing in between the roots and the stems that’s called a rhyzome. If you plant anubias, you have to keep the rhyzome above the substrate.

u/goldfish_poop · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

Unfortunately a huge part of success in this hobby is patience, so there's going to be a bit of waiting before you can get fish in there. But it's definitely worth it!

Before you do anything, you'll need to test your tank for leaks, as someone has already mentioned. Then you'll need to decide where the tank is going in your home. Is it close enough to a faucet for water changes? Does it receive any direct sunlight from nearby windows? (This could cause algae issues later on.) You'll need a stand made specifically for an aquarium (craigslist is good for this, occasionally pet stores will have decent online sales as well). A gallon of water weighs ~8 lbs, so once your tank is full it will weigh about 500 lbs with substrate, most furniture can't handle that much weight unless it's solid wood.

It's been mentioned a few times on here, but make sure you have a great understanding of the nitrogen cycle before bringing any fish home. I've heard some pet store employees refer to "cycling" as "letting the dust settle from the gravel and the filter/heater run for a few days" but that is NOT cycling and will end up killing your fish from ammonia poisoning. As far as fish go, my only other advice would be never bring anything home without researching thoroughly (temperature, tank size requirements, full adult size, etc) Seriously Fish is a great resource for reading up on different species, it's usually my go-to.

For plants you can go as cheap/simple as pool filter sand with some root tabs or as fancy as plant-specific substrate (ada aquasoil, flourite, eco complete) with pressurized CO2. It really boils down to personal preference and how much money you want to spend. Plant species I've found especially difficult/impossible to kill are Amazon Swords, Anubias, and various Crypts. There are many more "beginner" plants, but those have all worked/looked best for me personally. Petsmart will occasionally have some really good markdowns on their tissue cultured plants (the ones in the packaging on the shelf) and I've had a lot of success with those, even when they're half-dead.

Sorry for the wall of text, I hope it was of at least a little help! This subreddit has also helped me tremendously, especially the links in the sidebar like this one. Good luck, and make sure to show us a picture once you get it up and running!

u/davr2x · 2 pointsr/Aquascape

Root tabs are root fertilizing tabs/pills that are recommended when using inert substrates like sand and gravel, since those don’t have the nutrients other products, like soil or Aquasoil, have.

u/cupofj47 · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

Plant fertilizer in tablet/tab form. Pop them near the root base into the gravel. It feeds the plant. Lasts 3-4 months before you need to pop a new one in.

u/z1200 · 2 pointsr/Jarrariums

Certainly. Petco and Petsmart carry them too but I’m not sure about prices. It will be fine for a couple weeks probably, but eventually it will want some food. I think maybe flourish tabs would be a good option.

Seachem Flourish Tabs Growth Supplement - Aquatic Plant Stimulant 10 ct

u/sadmeal · 2 pointsr/eldertrees

Look into purchasing a carbon filter for your bong. Buy your carbon here or somewhere other than a smoke-shop to save a lot of money on replacing it.

You'll notice a much cleaner smoke in general You clean your bong less because no ash can get into your water, and even resin builds a lot slower- really slow if you do a quick dump+scoop of some new carbon after each smoke. I would say it brings out the flavor more.

Also it's a dry time of season and I need a humidifier on at all times lightly to avoid the coughs. Throat orientated teas mostly with licorice root that I like to drink while smoking.

I hope this helps.

u/hchen · 2 pointsr/Pets

Maybe try picking him up and putting him through the opening when you notice that he needs to go.

If all else fails, I'd suggest buying some activated carbon and mixing it in with the litter. It really helps in sucking up the smells. When I brought my kitten home I used both a covered and uncovered litter box. They both smell. The cover doesn't do much to contain a stinky poop, but using activated carbon really helped in reducing the smells.

I use this. It's pretty cheap. A little goes a long way. If you're worried about you cat getting dirty from it, I have a white kitten and he's perfectly white still.

u/davidmoore0 · 2 pointsr/LifeProTips

Just buy a bunch of activated carbon/charcoal

It is MUCH cheaper than a crappy Brita filter.

u/TotemoTanaka · 2 pointsr/saplings

There's a 40 oz. one here on Amazon for under $20. I went to a pet store too and i got one about half that size for $20+tax haha

Edit: Forgot link

u/ODproff · 2 pointsr/SpaceBuckets

I don’t unfortunately, but it’s really simple: fill up little pencil cup with this type of activated carbon, partially fill a larger cup so that the top of the smaller cup is flush with the top of the larger cup when you set it inside and fill the gaps.

u/palanski · 2 pointsr/toronto

FYI, much cheaper on Amazon.

u/ChristianCuber · 2 pointsr/hermitcrabs

I used to use 2 throw away Tupperware containers. the shape and size is up to you. i think I used the "Snack" containers. Just make sure your biggest crab can fully submerge in the bowl.


1 of them you want to fill every 3 days or so with de-chlorinated fresh water. Many of us use "Prime" for this as it gets rid of the things we need to get rid of while also not adding slime coat which is more for fish and can be harmful to the hermits. Product: (this will probably last you a few years - you only need a drop of it)


The other pool you want to use Instant Ocean and Prime with tap water. Since you are probably only needing a small amount, what many of us have done is create 1 gallon at a time and store it in a milk jug. It's like 1/2 cup of Instant Ocean in a gallon of water to get the right mix.


Here is a picture of my old tank. maybe it'll give you an idea for pool setup and size. | |

u/Xvidiagames · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

guessing you meant 24 hour? I can tell you right now that that wont be long enough sadly, I can also tell you that 90% of the time any chain pet store like petco or petsmart will have no idea about proper fish care. There is no offical time you need to wait but you need to wait untill your amonia and nitrite spike and then come back down after some water changes to have completed a fishless cycle. This is a good link here

Since you did not have a proper fishless cycle (dont worry I did the same thing when I started out) your going to need to do daily water changes of about 25% i would say, and get a water conditioner. I like Prime alot. and lastly and honestly, dont get to attached to these guys, they might not make it. But I wish you the best of luck, if you have more questions just ask:)

u/PM_your_cheesy_bread · 2 pointsr/bettafish

To clarify, is it 2 ppm before or after you treat it to get rid of chlorine and chloramine? Conditioners will cause a reading for ammonium because the reaction involves generation of ammonium hydroxide. This is unavoidable. Unfortunately 2 ppm is pretty high out of the tap, but if that is a reading after conditioner, it might be a quite a bit lower. Now, I will not be your best resource for solutions since I am spoiled with my immaculate tap, but here are some potential options:

  1. Invest in Seachem Prime as a conditioner. In addition to removing chlorines, it detoxifies ammonia for 24-48 hours and can be used up to 5x dosage in an emergency. It would probably be best to get this products no matter what combination of solutions you use.

  2. Cut your tap with commercial spring water. The spring water should be ammonia free and still contain good nutrients found in your tap, so you could drop that down to 1 ppm by doing 50/50 and then treat with Prime to detoxify the lower concentration. That should be pretty safe for your fish.

  3. Cut it with RO and invest in some remineralizing agents. This is probably the most roundabout way to handle it but some houses have RO water available to them for free.

  4. Add more bio filter media. I don't know anything about your tank specs but I bet you could find a place for a cartridge of bio media.

  5. If you have spare tanks, you could set up an extra tank that has its own bio filter and pull water from there to do water changes. This would still need to be dosed with ammonia every so often to keep bacteria alive, but we're talking extremely infrequently.

    Hopefully one or some of those are manageable!
u/soon2Bintoxicated · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

6 gal Fluval Edge I set up in March 2016. When it was just plants and substrate, I would use tap water I let sit for 24 - 48 hrs to do partial water changes. Since we got a few critters on Mother's Day (2 nerite snails, 3 amano shrimp) I've been treating the tap water with Seachem Prime and preheating the water for the water change in a 5 gal bucket prior to use. I also add a half cap full of API leaf growth to the bucket for the plants. I've used the water conditioner twice for the last two partial water changes and the water looks cloudy/foggy/smokey (now and after the last water change when I used conditioner the first time.) After yesterday's water change, it's only gotten worse. I should mention I also tossed in some root tabs yesterday because the plants are showing signs of deficiency. I can get param's after I get back from taking my son to school and I just ordered some carbon satchels that should be here today...just in case.

u/Mocha_Shakea_Khan · 2 pointsr/bettafish

120 gh = 7° gh which is perfect. That tetra aquasafe is water conditioner and you're better off buying this or prime. Prime is better, but api works well. The difference between the 2 i recommend and the one you have is that tetra aquasafe is marketed towards bettas specifically and i assume you pay more for a smaller bottle.

u/Hobanobaclypse · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

Going by the fact you tagged yourself as a noob I'll put in a bit more detail!

So fishless cycle wise (as opposed to fish-in cycling), you're going to want to get a source of ammonia to kickstart the bacteria reproduction off. Like you mentioned you can use fish food, but I tend to find this unreliable and people regularly ask questions related to the use of this because it's much less efficient than simply adding pure ammonia in. Pure ammonia is the best option because you can dose the exact amount each time, it's available instantly rather than having to wait for degradation of organic matter to occur etc., if you do the route of pure ammonia dosing then get household ammonia which has no other ingredients other than ammonia and water. There's a simple 'shake' test which is as it sounds, if you shake the bottle and there are no bubbles after a second or so then it's likely it doesn't contain any detergent chemicals.

You'll also need to invest in a freshwater test kit,, API is very well received here for their 'Master' liquid test kit. Test strips simply aren't accurate enough to rely on. Also a dechlorinator such as seachem prime, this is so your tap water isn't going to contain any additives that will kill off bacteria/harm your fish, seachem prime is a good choice because it's very cost efficient and also claims to detoxify the ammonia/nitrites, not sure if this claim is 100% proven but the cost effectiveness is why I use it.

For the cycle you need to have your filter set up properly, you say yours has a sponge and carbon, but really you want as much surface area for the bacteria to live on, so if there's space it would be worthwhile adding in some bio media such as ceramic bio rings into the filter after the sponge. A thing to note here is from now on don't wash your sponge in tap water, when cleaning your filter just keep some of the water you drained out of your tank in a bowl and rinse the sponge in the bowl by squeezing it to get the muck off, bacteria will be killed off by using untreated tap water. Also to note, the carbon isn't too useful for anything other than removing medication from the water so it won't add too much benefit during this process.

Now onto the cycle itself, you want to start off by dosing your water to about 2.0ppm ammonia, this is the optimal level for bacteria growth, and now wait! It'll take some time before this level starts to go down, so I'd recommend not testing for at least 2-3 days because otherwise you'll just get your hopes up as nothing will change. After about 2 weeks the ammonia level should go down, and you'll begin seeing nitrites, then another 2 weeks and you'll see the nitrites go down, voila your cycle is finished. During the second stage of the cycle where nitrites are being processed you'll want to keep dosing your tank to 2.0ppm ammonia to keep the bacteria fed. At the end of the cycle do a large water change and you're ready to go.

As a note, I did try and use some of the bottled bacteria like Tetra SafeStart, API Quick Start, but had no luck with any of them, I would avoid them and just do the normal process to avoid any unnecessary purchases.

Hope some of that information helps :) having been through this process I think I covered all the issues I faced.

u/DIYaquarist · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

Should you get into the hobby? Of course!

Should you buy the cheap bare tank instead of a normally priced starter kit? Probably.

You'll need an appropriately sized glass lid which is $29 at that link for a 40 breeder. You'll also need a heater ($15ish), most of that same basic design are equally (un)reliable so you could get two smaller ones to improve reliability compared to one large one, but don't worry about brand name.

Then a light, which ranges from $42 suitable for viewing and low-light plants up to a lot more money for high-light suitable LED fixtures.

Then water conditioner such as Prime ($13)

And food for $3-$20, too many choices for me to even suggest one.

Overall this gives a better experience than a starter kit due to higher quality and more versatile... everything. The consumables are also larger than the sample sizes included in kits, though those are big enough to last quite a while anyways. And the equivalent cost starter kit is probably a 30 gallon and this is larger. But the overall cost is $130ish which illustrates that those starter kits are actually a decent value, as well as being convenient.

u/anonymoose_octopus · 2 pointsr/bettafish

Okay, if I'm guessing correctly, I'd say your tank isn't cycled. With a fish-in cycle, you're going to to need to either have the right products to help you along, or you're going to have to do daily/every other day water changes, to protect your fish.

What test kit are you using? Keep in mind that test strips are highly inaccurate and shouldn't be counted on. Anyone in the fish hobby will tell you that the API Freshwater Master Test Kit is a MUST HAVE, especially for fish-in cycling. You'll need to test daily to make sure the ammonia levels don't become toxic to your betta.

Here are my list of recommendations:

  1. Seachem Prime, as a water conditioner and ammonia detoxifier. It's the best of the best. You can find it at most pet stores, or online. I personally use Microbe-Lift XTreme as a water conditioner, but I have Prime as well. I started my cycle with MLXT and I just felt more comfortable continuing with it. I've cycled in a few weeks, and it's a great alternative to Prime, IMO.
  2. Tetra Safe Start Plus. I'd recommend the 1.69 oz bottle for your size tank. You'll want this to speed up your cycling process to get there as quickly as possible. You dump the whole bottle in for your tank size and refrain from water changing for at least a week to let the BB (that's bottled bacteria) colony grow. Make sure you add this 24 hours AFTER you add any water conditioner to his tank, though. If you add it before then, the BB will die. If your levels get dangerous for your fish, dose Prime to detoxify the levels.
  3. API Freshwater Master Test Kit. Again, this is a must have, and it's cheaper than the strips anyway in the long run (you get something like 800 tests out of this kit, instead of 4-5 for the strips).

    Until you get all of the necessary products to properly and safely cycle your tank, you'll need to do daily water changes of 20-30%. Otherwise the ammonia could build up in your tank and kill your fish. Even levels of 0.25 ppm is dangerous.

    I know this is overwhelming, but if you have ANY questions at all you can free feel to either post here or PM me.

    Also, is an EXCELLENT source of information on all things fish. They're an extremely active forum that has helped complete newbs like myself out when I needed help most. I'd highly recommend doing more research on the nitrogen cycle and asking for help there.

    EDIT: I'm sorry, I didn't even see your last question. Oops. I got my plants from Petco/Petsmart, but has great plants that arrive in excellent condition, from what I've heard and read.
u/dumb_giraffe · 2 pointsr/bettafish

Hey! Hope I can help a little.

1.) Figure how much water you wanna change. Most people do a 25% water change weekly. For a 5 gallon tank, that's roughly 2 gallons of water.

2.) Fill up two gallon jugs with tap water (or however much water you plan to change). Use a cheap aquarium thermometer to make sure the faucet water temperature is the same as the temperature in your tank.

3.) Add some conditioner to the water, following the bottle instructions. (Most people rave over Seachem Prime, because it conditions water and detoxifies ammonia/harmful fish waste.) The water is now ready to add to your tank!

4.) Most important: Keep up with these weekly-daily water changes. If your tank is less than 4 months old, you should do water changes more often (every other day), because your nitrogen cycle will not be complete yet. Understanding the nitrogen cycle and doing regular water changes is the MOST IMPORTANT part of successful fishkeeping. Many inexperienced fishkeepers don't change the water enough, so fish waste (ammonia) builds up = sick fish.

Bonus: buying a test kit will show how much ammonia is in your water, which lets you know exactly when a water change is due.

Best of luck! We all start somewhere. I doubt there's a single person here who hasn't accidentally killed a fish before.

u/DarkSkyForever · 2 pointsr/ReefTank

Seachem Prime is great for this too, instantly neutralizes ammonia and chlorine and gives you time to mix up salt water.

u/sushisexandbraids · 2 pointsr/Aquariums
  1. 30 gallon is a good start! it'll be easy to keep parameters steady. Decoration wise, nope! my strategy is to put taller plants in the back, medium more forward, then shortest in the front. decorations i use the rule of thirds (it's a photography thing but helps with placement).

  2. It really, really depends on the species. Do research on species you might be interested in, and then head to AQAdvisor to get an idea of what stocking could work. Do not rely solely on AQAdvisor. It's meant to give you a general idea of what might work. Always do research on top of using AQAdvisor or another program

  3. If you want fake plants, go for silk. This way, they are soft and won't hurt your fish. However, real plants can be very easy to take care of. There are numerous species that don't require a bunch of "special stuff" (i.e. high light, CO2, etc) that will basically grow with little to no help from you! Anubias, Crypts, Wisteria, etc. are very easy plants to grow. Stick them in your substrate and watch em go!

  4. Personal preference for sure. I like sand because I keep Kuhli Loaches, and they like sand better than rocks/gravel. it's much easier on their bodies and doesn't harm them. They also love to dig into the sand! I suggest that once you figure out what fish you want, then you use that information to decide sand or gravel. I will say gravel is easier to clean.

  5. You should look into the FAQ in the community info. Here's a link to what cycling is, how to start a new tank, etc.

  6. The tank will naturally evaporate water. This is normal. I have to add water to my 10 gallon once a week, sometimes more. nothing wrong with that! Before adding water, apply Prime and you're all set. You should do weekly water changes, and the amount of water you change out depends on how strong your filter is and how stocked your tank is, as well as what your tank is stocked with. Usually, people take out about 10-20% of the old water in the tank, and put in the same amount of new, "clean" and dechlorinated water.

  7. Here's a small list
    -Neon Tetras
    -Cloud Minnows
    -Cardinal Tetras
    -Harlequin Rasboras
    -Neon Rainbowfish
    -Cory's (look further into which species would be best for your sized tank

  8. Honestly, their filters are okay. But not my favorite. They're kind of unreliable and don't filter as well as I'd like them to. Personally, I'd recommend either Fluval AquaClear or MarineLand Penguin

    As i said before, definitely look into the subreddit info, and check out the wiki. it has a lot of helpful information that will help a lot! PM me if you have any other questions.
u/CallMeMrsSlender · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

> I thought weekly changes were best?

If it's absolutely mandatory: ex- the bio-load too much for the tank and/or filter is large or there is an issue within the tank. Once a tank is established (parameters testing solid over a period of time) you can play with it to see what works best.

Personally I've got a two established 10 gal Betta community tanks that get a good 30% water change monthly and a 40b tank that I do a 10% on every other week due to a very messy baby Oscar currently inhabiting that tank otherwise I'd go for monthly on that tank as well because the parameters test nicely.

> Fluval aqua plus conditioner.

I just googled it and read the bottle. I'm not seeing where it does anything for ammonia at all. So that may be where the ammonia is staying, you're adding in new water but the conditioner isn't neutralizing any ammonia. You most likely need to make a run to the store to find a water conditioner that does work against ammonia. I know many use Seachem Prime as it's a wonderful and fast acting water conditioner. You would only need a few drops for a 29g but it would neutralize any ammonia in the tank.

> So loaches and corys do well together?

I've kept both. Never together though. My concern would be the loaches get huge and they will, once large enough, bully and eat fish smaller than them meaning once the loaches have a group and established territories within the tank they will start to pick on the corys and once large enough could eat them.

u/Virginia_Trek · 2 pointsr/Aquariums there is a lot wrong here. I'll try to make it simple as to not overload you with information, and if you have further questions, please let me know and I'll expand.

  1. Check the seals and assure that the tank is not leaking or going to leak. A tank in this shape is high risk. Bubbles in the silicon joints are a bad sign. Actual leaks are a worse sign.

  2. The tank needs to be cleaned. The filter, filter material (DO NOT THROW OUT! RINSE AND SQUEEZE IN BUCKET OF TANK WATER NOT TAP WATER), hood, and probably under the substrate should be cleaned. The walls should be scrubbed of algae and grime. If you do not wish to totally empty the tank and clean by hand, i recommend scrubbing the glass with a clean sponge or aquarium cleaning brush. I recommend soaking the filter parts in tap water and cleaning with a sponge. As for the substrate (the gravel), you will need a siphon/aquarium vacuum to get under it. There is bound to be loads of fish poo and particulates. The hood can be cleaned with wet paper towels or sponges.

  3. A series of water changes should be performed. It is tempting to do a huge one, but depending on how bad the tank is, a series of 10-20% changes may be the safest route. You will need to buy a test kit (i recommend the API kit) to check the parameters. The levels you absolutely need to know: ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, ph.

    I've never kept an oscar before, but i believe ~7.2-7.6 ph is optimal. For all fish, 0ppm ammonia, 0ppm nitrites, and probably 0-30ppm nitrates are good numbers. Eventually these will be stable and you will only need to do probably one 25% change weekly. This takes about 10-30 minutes depending on your tools and proximity to a water source.

    I would say this is a 75g, but honestly, i suck at guessing. Dimensions would clear it right up. The two plecos will eventually outgrow it, and may have already. They will need most likely a 120g+ tank. The oscar should be happy here. Absolutely do not pay someone to clean and maintain the tank. It is a lot of work up front, but it will be so much cheaper and easier for you. I have 3 tanks (2.5g, 20g, and 75g) and i spend maybe 40 minutes a week total. I spend 20 minutes a week on my 75 and it is mostly water changes.


    In addition, the plecos probably need driftwood or something equivalent to suck on to. Currently the atat is the only thing they have in the tank and that is not making them happy.

    Things you must buy bare minimum to ensure livable water quality:

  4. Water parameter testing kit. I strongly recommend the API master test kit

  5. SeaChem Prime is by a long shot the best water conditioner. Removes chlorine, and temporarily detoxifies ammonia and nitrites for up to 48hrs.

  6. Siphon for cleaning and removing water for changes. Most will work, but you need a fairly large one for a tank this size. This one will be fine.
u/ChiefBigGay · 2 pointsr/PlantedTank

Hi! I noticed a lot of people don't seem to be acknowledging you have a very high powered plant light and no co2. This helps form any type of algae in general when you're pushing that much var. Flourish Excel is an organic carbon that you can pour in that should help get rid of the algae and make your plants look a lot better!

You could also just go the full co2 setup route.

I work at a fish store and we recommend you feed your fish every other day. This could help with the overfeeding you think you have going on. My neon tetras are huge feeding like this as well.

u/SNAFU01 · 2 pointsr/PlantedTank

It's definitely a pain! The algae on the carpet is diatoms, which will pass eventually on its own but I'm trying to keep things under control in the meantime. If you manage to find a quick fix, let me know (!), but here's what I've been doing in the meantime with some success:

  • Started dosing my all-in-one fert with a half-dose daily, instead of a full-dose every other day. I use Thrive+. This seems like it has made the biggest difference so far.
  • Monitoring my nitrate levels regularly and doing large water changes whenever levels are >40~ ppm.
  • Added 10 amano shrimp and 3 otocinclus catfish.
  • Settled on 8-hours of light. Any more or any less both seemed to lead to more algae.
  • Dosing Seachem Excel after each water change.
  • And as a last resort, I'll physically remove the algae with my hands/a brush or just trim off any particularly bad leaves.

    Still haven't gotten rid of it but things seem to be headed the right direction.
u/hatehardon · 2 pointsr/PlantedTank

Lominie LED Aquarium Light,...

Glosso Factory All in one Planted Aquarium Fertilizer, 16oz, with Balanced Micros and Macros, Easy to use, Treats 4,730 gallons

Seachem Flourish Excel Bioavailable Carbon - Organic Carbon Source for Aquatic Plants 500 ml

I use the Flourish every day (1ml) and glosso Factory twice a week (1 pump).

u/velo443 · 2 pointsr/aquarium

Relax, I think you're ok. The "chemical" look on the water surface is probably just bio-film. See this thread for suggestions:

Have you tested your water's pH, ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates? If not, get a test kit like this: Post your results here for advice. But I'm guessing that two 50% water changes every week is more than you need. You can probably cut that back to once a week or once every two weeks. That's assuming your levels are ok and your filter is working as it should.

Based on your photos, I'm guessing your tank is pretty new? The spots of algae on the rocks look like the beginning algae I've seen in newer aquariums. Same for the brown spots on the anubias. Treating your tank with Flourish Excel might help with the algae: Or, if your water chemistry tests come back ok, you can get a small shrimp or two to help clean up the algae. You want to make sure your water chemistry is ok for shrimp. Do a little research before you buy any. You don't say how big your tank is, but it can probably take a small shrimp or two.

u/Dantrag · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

You need a car :-D. But back to the topic at hand: Depending on the type of hair algae and the severity, there are several things you can do. The general consensus is that regular overdosing with a product such as SeaChem Flourish Excel, reduction in length of your photo period, and ensuring that you are feeding the proper amount for your live stock will help to combat most algae outbreaks. What are you doing for lighting?

u/woadleaves · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

Make sure you're dosing CO2 and nutrients (Flourish contains copper, if you have crustaceans then try this one ).

You can also use a CO2 gas diffuser rather than a carbon-containing liquid. Those setups are more expensive; I don't use one so maybe someone who does could explain how they work, but I hear they're very effective for larger tanks. My tanks are 5.5 G and 20 G and the liquid works fine for me.

You could also try adding inverts that eat decaying plant matter, such as snails and shrimp, if they're compatible with your setup. Also check your water parameters and make sure nothing crazy is going on, though since I assume your fish are fine then that would be my last guess.

u/Anat1dae · 2 pointsr/bettafish

At the least, adding some bottled bacteria like Seachem Stability ( will help the growth of benefical bacteria to create a healthier environment for your fish

u/tylr10213 · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

It sounds like your on the right path. I would dose prime on days your not water changing tho just to detoxify the ammonia. Would also pick up some kind of bacteria in a bottle I’ve had great success with tetra safe start plus another option is seachem stability

Good luck

u/BlerpDerps · 2 pointsr/bettafish

I've had him for over a year now but I had an ammonia spike that resulted in an unstable biofilter for an embarrassingly amount of time towards the end of 2018. (I was going on vacation for 4 days and didn't know that he could, in theory, be fine for up to a week w/out food so I used one those dumb slow release food things for bettas. Never again.) I really didn't want to just start from scratch and have to do an in-fish cycle but I just couldn't get the biofilter stabilized so I started from scratch and seized the opportunity to move him from a 5.5G to a 10G, use better gravel, and get some live plants in there too. I used Dr.Tim's One and Only Live Nitrifying Bacteria, Seachem's Stability (to help boost the filter), and did daily water changes. I was also dosing Seachem's StressGuard daily during and after the biofilter was established for ~1.5 months and have been dosing it 1-2 times weekly since.

u/esppsd · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

Order this:

Ultralife Blue Green Slime Stain Remover

Then manually remove as much of the cyanobacteria as you can, follow the directions on the package, and remove any dead colonies when doing the water changes as prescribed in the directions. Repeat dosage may be required, but it works VERY well.

Word of advice, make sure that you have your air stone turned up in the tank, the product uses a lot of dissolved oxygen as it does it's job.

u/Quesenek · 2 pointsr/PlantedTank

I would honestly recommend anything that would kill the existing algae in the tank and replace/add more plants that are not doing too hot.

The cyanobacteria will probably go away once the nitrogen is raised, but I would give it a kick and also use Ultralife blue green slime stain remover.

u/redmeansdistortion · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

Looks to be it. I used this stuff earlier this year and it did a great job getting rid of it. My cyanobacteria bloom was very large, covering most of my substrate and driftwood with a thick green slime. If you use that stuff, you'll want to keep the lights out for about a week and do 30% to 50% water changes every couple of days so the dead cyanobacteria don't make your ammonia spike.

u/pixel10 · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

For anyone that is interested, it was decided that it was a mixture of a hell of a lot of diatoms and some cyanobacteria. The initial solution suggested was using Erythromycin but it isn't available to purchase in the UK without a prescription.
Instead I found this on amazon which had amazing reviews so I decided to give it ago. I used one treatment and within 48 hours the cyano bacteria was starting to die off, and within a week it had completely gone.
For the diatoms I purchased a group of 6 Oto's who proceeded to demolish it and are now stripping clean the substrate and any flat surface every single night.
Hope this helps anyone else having the same problem

So the tank is around 6-8 weeks old and is almost done cycling. Ammonia- 0ppm Nitrites- 0ppm Nitrates 40-80ppm. It is a high tech set up with a 7 hour photoperiod. I mimic the fertiliser dosage of the 2HR Aquarist as I was worried about overdoing it.

When the tank was around 3 weeks old I started to get hair algae in the tank, but at 5 weeks old the hair algae was overtaken by what I assumed were diatoms. I kept up weekly 50% water changes to try and help but its getting worse and worse, to the point where I've lost 4 different plants because their leaves were getting so covered by it that they died. I was originally cleaning it off of the leaves daily but it makes no difference, it is back by the following day.

In an attempt to bring my nitrates down I've added fluval clearmax to the canister, but I'm really not sure else to do.

More Photos:

u/bimmeresty · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

This is an expensive method but really works. However like others said, unless you fix the nitrate issue, BGA will keep coming back.

u/sleekgt · 2 pointsr/PlantedTank

Try the advice that bquad gave and see if it helps. I've had battles with BGA as well and I am always on the losing side for some reason. My recent battle had me go and purchase this stuff from amazon:

I followed the directions on the product and made no special changes to my tank and within a week the BGA was gone. From the comments this stuff doesn't contain Erythromycin.

u/Healsforhugs · 2 pointsr/bettafish can check whether or not there are suspicious reviews

The adjusted rating is the same as the original rating which is somewhat promising but there are some suspicious reviews.

u/ErtyJr · 2 pointsr/PlantedTank

First off buy some of that, you can't overdose it, and it may not do it all, but it will help.

Secondly get some purigen. It removes ammonia and nitrites from the water.

Also duckweed is an amazing ammonia remover, but depending on how you feel about it can become a "pest" after. Personally I love duckweed, even though I hate scooping it out so often.

u/mementomori27 · 2 pointsr/turtle

I would get the largest you can afford. More filtration is never a bad thing. Another poster said that 3x your tank size is a good rule. The 1200 is capable up to 150 gal tank so it would work but you might be doing more water changes. I bought the 1200 Elite version which comes with extra media and hoses but it sounds like you dont really need those. If you dont need hoses, the base model cascade 1500 is still $140 as well. That will handle up to 200 gal so it's a safe bet. I think that one would be better since your tank is larger.

Some quick links for you.

Penn Plax Cascade 1500 - 350GPH Canister Filter

Tetra WaterClarifier Treatment, 3.38-Ounce, 100-ml

u/Dinosarz · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

Tetra makes a "safe start" product that can be used to jumpstart your cycle.

Im sure there are better brands out there too. I know i have seen bags of bacteria (for breaking down ammonia and nitrite) at petsmart before

u/dqtq · 2 pointsr/bettafish

Hi /u/smishgibson,

Leo's already regrowing! I shit you not, the ashy grey scurf has gone and something transparent (which I believe is a regrowing fin) has appeared, look!




And that's just after the first 3/4 water change!

Maybe I'm way too optimistic, but his today mood definitely lifted me up. I disabled a pump as usual when I feed him and he rapidly swam to the feeding hole. He didn't even refuse a single pellete! Also, I bought him the Cocos Cava. Thought about it like an anti-stress, and I bet he fell in love with it!

Back yesterday I also got the tests, a conditioner, a thermometer and a siphon. For a conditioner, I settled on the API Tap Water Conditioner, very similar to the products that we discussed, many say it does its job well. A freshly set thermometer shows 27 °C (80 °F) (it's been 30 °C (86 °F) outside in the afternoon).

First thing I did yesterday is a test of water in the tank. Needless to say, it smelt like a swamp. And these tests more or less have proven that something wasn't right (though I'm not sure their precision could be anywhere close to Swiss watch level, but AFAIK it doesn't matter since my target is the lowest nitrate/nitrite/ammonia values possible), pictured the results:




Instructions are very unclear and they didn't provide units, so I guessed these values stand for ppm.

Having the unsatisfactory test results, today morning I siphoned 75% of the water and some gravel (partly, to prevent bacteria genocide), then refilled the tank with conditioned water. Now I plan to test current water state and determine if the 2nd 75% change is a must.

What do you think?

u/fastag · 2 pointsr/PlantedTank

Yes your LFS will test the water for you. You might want to take some tap water to get tested as well. That way you know what you are working with. In most cases just some dechlorinator is sufficient. I use this: api tap water conditioner. 1ml per 20 gallons. So you'll only need a couple of drops with every water change.

Also keep in mind that test strips are not very accurate so you can use them to make sure your water params are stable but not as a way to know the exact values.

u/Luxray978 · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

They will need a 60-75 gallon tank asap i will include a link below on how to cycle a aquarium. All water for fish must be treated to remove chlorine you can get a bottle of liquid to do this online or at a local pet store. web link for stuff to remove chlorine how to cycle a aquarium

u/AccioButterbeer22 · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

Additives need to go in BEFORE. If you read about cycling you know these beneficial bacteria everywhere in the gravel. The chlorine in tap will kill the bacteria and you will have to restart the cycle. I usually test water before I would do a water change to make sure it's needed and im on track.

You need to replace the water because if you cycled correctly there will be nitrate in the water. Nitrate although less harmful than ammonia and nitrite is still bad for your fish. Nitrate is the final step and need to be taken out. That way when you take 25% of the water out, you take 25% of the toxins out. It is absolutely necessary to dechlorinate and do water changes. Heres one of the best dechlorinator on the market

ONCE AGAIN Dechlorinator and water changes every weeks are absolutely necessary...

u/nkdeck07 · 2 pointsr/bettafish

Test Kit That's the API one, I have yet to see a petstore that doesn't sell that one. Get a liquid kit that tests for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. Don't get the strips, they aren't accurate and tend to go bad.

Water Conditioner they may not have that exact one, just look for a product that says "Removes chlorine, chloramine and heavy metals" I think someone else listed a few.

Yes the filter bag, if you can only run it a week can you cut down part of the one from your 10 gallon and put it in the 3 gallon? The filter bag is where most of the good bacteria live that eat the ammonia and nitrite. A week is really kind of pushing it as you would only get enough bacteria to jumpstart a fish in cycle which isn't good for the fish. You can also help this process but keeping the gravel from the old tank wet for the trip as the bacteria live there too.

Unless your room is kept at 80 degrees it's going to be too cold. He's already going to be stressed from the travels and heat will help. It's like $10 and you will have a much happier fish.

Like a grocery bag, just something to block the light. Just stick the zip lock inside that.

Much as he will eat in 3 minutes once a day. Honestly it's probably more likely a water quality issue then anything else. The rules of trouble shooting anything wrong are usually water quality first.

u/legal_trees · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

I use this stuff. Super cheap and causes no ill effects on my plants. I just follow dosing on bottle.

API Tap Water Conditioner Aquarium Water Conditioner 16 oz Bottle

u/just-the-doctor1 · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

this just to make sure nothing is there that shouldn’t be.

u/Dizzybro · 2 pointsr/PlantedTank

This is what I've used

DrTim's Aquatics Ammonium chloride - 2 oz bottle

u/DylanMcDermott · 2 pointsr/PlantedTank

Using an all-in-one like thrive makes the likelihood of nutrients skewing upwards more likely, but with only plantstock I don't think there's any ethical concerns with that. If that happens you'll have to do water changes to rectify it.

If the volume is large you might as well dose macroferts individually (usually as dry ferts) then you don't have to worry about a run-up, you instead can just stop dosing the relevant nutrient. Also, since you have no livestock, you can dose ammonia (which plants love, in reasonable concentrations) instead of nitrates.

u/menmoth50 · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

If you are unsure about your ammonia levels, I would not add fish. Retest, and make sure you follow the instructions on the test kit to the letter. If you are still unsure, but suspect it is zero, you can force an ammonia spike with this stuff, then retest and track your levels with an easier to read ammonia color. Good luck, and I hope your tank is cycled and ready!

u/gottagetanotherbetta · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

Forget the fish food, it's too hard to dose properly. Get this or any kind of 100% household ammonia with no additives and use it instead.

u/aboxofkittens · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

It’s possible! I’ve had similar stuff happen. But the only way to know for sure is to put actual ammonia in there and test it. Most people say 1ppm/day ammonia removal (with no nitrate spike) means it’s cycled.

Or test your tap water, and if you find it has ammonia (lots of public suppliers use chloramine to keep water clean, which shows up on our tests and is available to the bacteria as ammonia), do a big water change. Check it 24 hrs later; if 0ppm, it’s cycled

You can get ammonia on amazon or at a hardware or grocery store (with the cleaners). Make sure it’s only got ammonia in it.

u/Nosmada22 · 2 pointsr/PlantedTank

I am nearing the end of my 10g planted cycle, I used dr Tim's ordered on amazon. Easy to use, 10 drops per 10g = 2 ppm.

u/KrombopulosC · 2 pointsr/shrimptank

Seachem will not help cycle your tank without an ammonia source to feed the bacteria. Letting a tank run for a month will not cycle either. The bacteria you are trying to cultivate need ammonia and then nitrite to feed off of and grow. I would buy DrTim's Aquatics - Ammonium Chloride Solution for Fishless Cycling - 2 oz Bottle and dose the tank to about 2ppm ammonia continue to keep 1-2ppm present until nitrites return to zero and nitrates are all that show up. Then do a big water change. Do not clean the filter with this change as it will get rid of a good portion of your good bacteria. When you do clean the filter in the future make sure it isn't the same day as a water change. Hope this helps your future skrimps

u/purerockfury · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

Something like Dr Tims?

I looked at it this morning, but figured if I could expect to wait another day or two for the cycle to start it may not be worth it, but I’m guessing I should pick it up then?

u/lasershurt · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

I've used this product, and it worked great.

u/blooomseer · 2 pointsr/bettafish

Here’s an inexpensive filter I use and a heater . You’re gonna need a API master test kit. It’s recommended that you cycle your tank. You can do a fishless cycle in which you’ll need ammonia to start the cycle. Or you can do fish-in cycling and add him after you put the water in.
Bettas love plants! Silk or real plants are the way to go, you should avoid plastic because it will rip their fins. if you get real plans i suggest java fern because it’s super hardy

u/ManicWarpaint · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

I've heard this stuff works well although I have no experience with it. I use this on my tanks with API quickstart. I let it sit until all the ammonia is consumed. As long as there is some nitrites still showing up then I drop a few fish pellets in to keep the nitrifying bacteria fed. Once the nitrites drop back to zero I do a 50% WC. After that a weekly 20% PWC. Slowly introducing livestock. Hope that helps

u/thefishnoob · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

+1 on the parisite. Buy fenbendazole: here

This works well, you have to mix it with their food and feed it to the fish. It should kill any internal worms in them. Good luck!

u/smilemorepleez · 2 pointsr/bettafish

Here's my suggested shopping list:

The API Water Testing Kit - about $22 at Amazon, might be more expensive at a pet shop

Indian Almond Leaves - ($7) I put in a fresh 1/4 a leaf each week

VitaChem - ($11) vitamin drops to help with color and fins - a drop a day and he'll swim around and hunt for the vitamin specs

Polisher Filter - ($3) Use scissors and cut a couple of chunks for the back compartment in the Marineland tank. It helps slow the flow down a little and kept the water super clean.

u/awhawhaw · 2 pointsr/shrimptank

I'm not sure about the phosphate, but you definitely need ammonia. Buy pure ammonia. This is the one I bought:

Make sure the ammonia is above 1ppm but below 5ppm. The cycle should take care of itself. Nitrite should spike like you said then drop. You've only been cycling for 2 weeks. You're on the right track. Mine fully cycled in 28 days. Here's a guide I used for reference.

u/H_Mc · 2 pointsr/bettafish

My town has a city well with impossibly hard water. The running joke in my house is, if you need concrete fill a bucket and wait a minute. I haven’t tested it myself but on the cities last test it was 670 mg/l. As a result my tap water has a pH north of 8.2.

I bought these but they’re not making a dent. Should I add more? Get more serious? Ignore it and hope he adapts?

Edit: I should probably have mentioned that I’m doing a fish-in cycle. My betta wasn’t a complete impulse, but it was enough of one that I didn’t know about cycling. I’m on the downward side of the nitrite spike right now. I didn’t want to share a picture of him earlier because ... shameful pet caretaker.

u/AnAngryGoose · 2 pointsr/indoorgardening

>The one thing to remember with Java ferns, is that they require a regular fertilizer. Because they have no “true” roots, they get most of their fertilizer from the water column. If you want your Java fern to truly thrive, you should add a liquid fertilizer after every weekly water change. Tab fertilizers are useless with Java ferns, since they don’t have a proper root system to utilize them.

from here

>Java Fern should be placed on driftwood, rocks or directly onto the gravel (but make sure not to bury it in the substrate) that's why they don't need any fertilizer or root tabs
Any fertilizer design for aquarium won't hurt any live things however longest you using correct dose and maintain your regular water change..


Someone in that thread recommended Thrive. It seems normal, liquid aquarium fertilizer works, if necessary.

/r/aquariums would probably be more helpful with this specific plant. Hope this helps!

Also, nice plant. Didn't know these were a thing and they are super neat. Thanks!

u/WrapGod · 1 pointr/Aquariums

When you get a new tank it's not about waiting for it to "clear up". You have to consistently add pure ammonia until it's converted rapidly to nitrite and then nitrate. You remove nitrate though water changes. Here's a simple guide for beginners. You need pure 100% ammonia (check local fish store and hardware store) and a liquid test kit. Many like to recommend the API Freshwater Master Test Kit.

The result of adding fish this early into the cycle is a rapid buildup of ammonia from the fish. Ammonia is toxic to the fish and high enough levels can kill them quite rapidly. If you want to greatly improve the chance of survival for your fish, read the test kit's manual to learn the safe enough levels for your fish at this time. Perform water changes to lower levels, and make sure to treat any tap water with dechlorinator.

You should hold off adding any more fish until the end of the cycle or you'll just add to the problem further.

u/Daftshibe · 1 pointr/bettafish

no it it's automatic. I was getting a new one because I'm not sure it's very reliable. Any recommendations? Also could this help with fins?: API STRESS COAT Aquarium Water Conditioner 16-Ounce Bottle

u/EmptySighs66x · 1 pointr/bettafish

Well, in the video he appears to be pretty active and swimming so I'd personally consider him healthy. As for stress coat, I use th API brand. You can get it from any local pet store or order it off of Amazon. I've linked the Amazon one below. It comes with instructions on how much to put in your tanks and the top is the little measuring cup to do so. I find it one of my most important additives to my fish tank and at my workplace (pet store) and it's helped me with quite q few issues I've had.

API STRESS COAT Aquarium Water Conditioner 16-Ounce Bottle

u/Milk_Monster · 1 pointr/Aquariums

Here ya go.

40 bucks for the filter/heater/Hood.

Also make sure you get some water conditioner.

Oh and if you are doing plants you should get some fluorescent bulbs.

u/Rockidoge · 1 pointr/bettafish

Clean, warm water will be the best thing you can do for your new fish friend. Definitely leave the filter on, your beneficial bacteria will die if the filter isn't running.

You can add a little bit of API stress coat to the water. I would avoid over-medicating and not doing anything extra like aquarum salt or antibiotics unless it gets worse.

In a 2gal tank with only one betta, I would do a 25% water change twice a week.

u/Jeeeepy · 1 pointr/Aquariums

Hi everyone,

I got some questions for my first fishtank.

I got a 29gal aquarium and I want to start it. I plan to buy this filter (Marineland, Penguin 200 (30 to 50G) and this heater (Pawfly 200W). I'm buying this kit and this stress coat from API. I have a cleaning kit and some decos. Should I buy something else?

I would like to stock my aquarium with a Betta as the centerpiece. I've read online that some other species can live with him, what y'all think?


u/YattyKun · 1 pointr/bettafish

Oh sorry! I should have mentioned. The tank isn't new. I used the tank for several years for some turtles and the glass is a bit cloudy from water stains + my bad phone camera. I have a PH kit here :

and as for conditioner I am using

I have yet to change the water, however I did let the tap water sit in the tank for a few days before adding live plants. After a few days for all of the bubbles in the tank to disappear I bought him and added him to the tank.

EDIT: Tried to get a better picture of the tank with the lighting on.

u/TrekkieTechie · 1 pointr/PlantedTank

A few thoughts:

  • Pick up a timer for your light. It'll give the tank a regular light cycle every day of the week without you having to do anything for <$10 (probably cheaper at a local store than Amazon).
  • A lot of algae means there's a lot of nutrients in the tank your plants are unable to use. In the case of the dwarf baby tears, they probably need more CO2 than is available in the water column; if they don't have enough CO2, it doesn't matter how many other ferts you dose -- CO2 will be a bottleneck for its photosynthesis and it's going to struggle; meanwhile then the algae will happily use those extra ferts. Keeping up your Flourish Excel would help this situation if you didn't want to go all out and inject carbon. IIRC the correct dose for Excel for your size tank would be about 1ml every day. Flourish should only be dosed once or twice a week; I can't speak to Iron. Simply take whatever the recommended dose on the label is and divide it to match your tank. Example: if label says 5 ml per 50 gals; that's 1 ml per 10 gals, or 0.5 ml for 5 gals. I use graduated eyedroppers to dose my nano tanks.
  • I think your substrate looks fine for plants (because you're not trying to plant in the sand). If it's not a fertilized substrate, consider getting some root tabs like /u/thefishnoob suggested.
  • The dwarf baby tears also probably needs more light -- consider getting a higher-output fixture, or add a second of the one you already have. (But wait until after you knock down your algae.)
  • Another tactic when it comes to knocking down algae can be reducing your photoperiod -- again something a timer can come in handy for.
u/swindlebin · 1 pointr/PlantedTank

That's a good gravel but it will be hard to carpet small plants in because of the size of the pebbles. So I'd suggest mixing a smaller more nutritious substrate in the areas you want to put your smallest plants. like Flourite
and also bury some fertilizer tabs

u/Anniemoose98 · 1 pointr/Aquariums

Nice work. Anubias is perfect - I keep it in my betta tank and he loves it. A few suggestions, though, to make it easier. Take some of the filter material from your current tank and put it in the new filter. If you do that, you have an instant cycle. One suggestion with the live plants is to pick up "Root Tabs." They will provide nutrients to the plants to promote strong root growth. I'd also suggest a liquid fertilizer like Seachem Flourish if you want optimal growth (nice looking plants!).

Also, driftwood is absolutely great. You will have "tannins" leaching into the water from the wood for awhile (essentially brown proteins without getting too much into the biology of it). They aren't harmful to the fish, but can make the water a dark, almost tea color. To deal with this, just change the carbon in your filter more frequently and do more frequent water changes.

u/FMLkoifish · 1 pointr/PlantedTank

how do you pre-fertilizing the soil?

Do I just throw in the Osmocote Plus, then Amazonia? is the root tabs optional? I was looking at this Seachem Flourish Tabs 10 Count. Does the Root tabs go on top?

Also, I was looking into the dry start method which seems like it would be a little easier for myself, what are your thoughts on this?

Thanks for being such a big help and having great advice for a noob like myself!

u/_Prrr · 1 pointr/AquaSwap

Hey! Some other people asked about the air pump and fertilizer, but the root tabs are the the Seachem Flourish Tabs (these ones). There are five left. These are the scissors and tongs I have. Let me know if you're still interested!

u/mynameisconroy · 1 pointr/Aquariums

Just little tabs (think like mentos size) of fertilizer you place in substrate once of month that contains most nutrients plants need!

u/DerpinPony · 1 pointr/PlantedTank

Very simple really. You just poke the tab deep into the substrate every couple of months. I'm really not trying to pump you Seachem products but their fert. tabs are pretty good and I use them in my own tank. This is for any plant that you have actually planted. For floaters you'll need to sub with a few drops of liquid ferts.

There are, naturally, many more products to use for ferts. Some much better and more expensive, but I have found that these work well and are on sale quite often. A bag or two will last me a year. :)

u/haggeant · 1 pointr/Aquariums

Basically they are fertilizer for your plants that get nutrients from their root systems. If you use substrates like pool filter sand, plain aquarium gravel, you can use these to help your plant get more nutrients easier and survive. But with you having flourite I don't think you need to spend the extra money on them.

u/MilkPudding · 1 pointr/bettafish

Methylene Blue with one-day shipping if you have Prime


u/__stapler · 1 pointr/bettafish

Thanks! I gave him a salt bath per these instructions today (found it on the sub while searching).

For the rest of the treatment I have a couple of options and I'm not sure which one to go with. I could

  1. Continue with salt baths, and probably start combining that w/ Methylene Blue (seems cheap enough + useful to have on hand)
  2. Move him to a quarantine "tank" w/ salt and daily water changes (the thing holds like 3qts, I have a bigger one but it leaks :/)
  3. Just dose salt directly to the tank (worried that it'll kill off my plants)

    Also, any bloat I think I'm seeing is probably just me being paranoid, but what broad-spectrum antibiotic do you recommend I keep on hand as a just in case for the future? I was thinking either Maracyn II or Seachem Kanaplex.
u/hoshin · 1 pointr/AskReddit

Find some methylene blue and put it in Coke or something dark like that. He'll be pissing blue.

There's a review here too. Looks like 20 drops will do the trick:

(not my fault if he dies or whatever, but I will take credit for stopping the theft!)

u/FSMCA · 1 pointr/AskReddit

Its also used as a fish meds:

thats all I can add

u/ncrees · 1 pointr/Aquariums

Don't put meth blue in main tank, it wipes out beneficial bacteria. As far as parasites coming back, if you leave the fish in there until you can't see any more spots plus a day or two you should be good. It's on Amazon

u/breadmaker8 · 1 pointr/PlantedTank
2.5 gallon

Fauna: 4x White Cloud Minnow

Flora: Hemianthus Callitrichoides
Cryptocoryne Parva
Marimo Moss
Unknown plant in the back. Trying to find something to fill in the back.

Driftwood: Manzanita

Equipment: Beamswork 12" LED
Deep Blue Biomaxx Nano Filter
Rhinox Glass Drop Checker
Rhinox 1000 Glass Diffuser
Empire Paintball 24oz. CO2 tank
AquaTek Mini CO2 Regulator
AquaTek CO2 Tubing
DIY Teabag + Activated Carbon filter
Plug Timer

Dosing: 0.5 mL/day Flourish Excel
0.5mL/week Flourish Comprehensive
CO2: 8 hours, Light: 8 hours, offset 30 minutes.

u/PJsAreComfy · 1 pointr/Aquariums

Do you have a water test kit so you can confirm the parameters? Also, whats the temp, do you use a water conditioner, what kind of filter, and it's a shrimp-only
tank now, yes?

u/evilcub · 1 pointr/bettafish

This one:

For this particular one, you only need to use a drop for a gallon of water, so don't worry about running out soon.

u/Alec9Grows · 1 pointr/microgrowery

$8.49 will remove chlorine and chloramine from 2500 gallons of water. As for the soil someone else will have to tell you about that.

u/DoryInTrouble · 1 pointr/Aquariums

Thanks. It did turn out that ammonia was the problem. I added an Instant Ocean BIO-Spira and some Seachem Prime and now the levels are starting to balance. The fish is doing better also.

u/KaulitzWolf · 1 pointr/Aquariums

Personally i'm a Betta fan, so if you haven't ruled them out completely then here's my suggestion:

get the tank all set up except for plants and begin cycling. I suggest picking up Seachem's Prime for a dechlorinator (it's cheaper in the long run since it's more concentrated and it has some other benefits. This specific bottle treats ~2,500 gallons). You will also want to order the API master test kit if you don't have it yet.

If you want a short cycle try Seachem's Stability to quickly establish the proper cycle and/or get some filter media (the brown gunk) from a friend or LFS. Proper cycling can take weeks to months on a new tank.

Once the tank is established (or before if you're treating with stability) get some good low-light plants like anubias (these are especially good for Betta's, with their broad leaves) and java fern. Mosses are good too. Keep an eye out for pond snails which can easily overtake a tank. Driftwood or other decor can go in now too, get all your aquascaping done before you add any fish.

Now, with the tank all set up and cycled (keep that bacteria fed w/ fish food or pure ammonia) you can go and get your fish. If you are worried about aggression and still want a Betta bring along a small mirror. You can some idea about the fish's temperament, but this test is imperfect. I have a male that flares at anything that moves, but I housed him with both shrimp and Otos (my sorority ate the shrimp when I had them in there) and he just ignored them.

Even if you have an aggressive Betta getting a larger mystery or nerite snail will make that a moot point, since they have thick protective shells. Some Bettas will attack them a little, but when they get no reaction they will get bored and eventually learn to live in peace with it. (contrary to popular belief Bettas can be fantastic in a community tank, not all females are docile little angels, and not all males are ruthless killing machines. There are always some aggressive Bettas, but generally they are only aggressive towards other Bettas and fish that look similar. Note that if you have fancy male guppies then a female Betta is a better option)

u/mediocreravenclaw · 1 pointr/axolotls

Do test it. When you go to the petstore its also a good idea for you to pick up a bottle of Prime conditoner. This will detoxify the ammonia and harmful nitrogens so you can safely cycle your tank without hurting/killing the axies. Ammonia, nitrite and nitrate are all toxic waste products. If these get too high it can rapidly harm the axies so this will help protect them. If it's still too high I do recommend tubbing them though. Once you get it tested post the parameters.

u/xj2379 · 1 pointr/BeardedDragons

You can buy reptile water conditioners if you're concerned. You'll want to find one that conditions based on what minerals are present in the tap water so asking a local reptile vet for product recommendations is a good idea.

u/kottonkrown · 1 pointr/turtle

> What food brand are you feeding the turtle? Very important.

Reptomin Floating Food Sticks and Fluker's Buffet Blend for Aquatic Turtles (mostly Reptomin). I supplement with live feeder crickets (1x / month or so) and small amounts of steamed broccoli (2x / month). He generally won't eat other veggies, like red leaf lettuce, kale, or any fruit.

> How deep is the water?

Not deep enough, i'm sure. He's in a 55 gallon aquarium, with about 18 gallons of water, providing about 9 inches of depth. In the photos below, I keep the water level up to the slate basking stone. The plastic container that forms the base is hollow, so he can swim under the platform. I change the water every 7 days (sometimes as long as 10 days if my schedule gets pushed). Filtration is a Tetra 20i equivalent. I change filter media with the water changes, and use Ammo-Carb as the media.

I'm looking at building an overhead sump filter, or upsizing to canister filter (I'm a renter and worried about a disaster scenario involving a leak). I've also constructed a larger (taller) basking platform that I need to tweak a bit to fit, but will allow me to get a full 12 inch depth of swimming water for him.

> Are you adding chemicals to the water?

ReptiSafe to neutralize chlorine. Ammo-Carb as the filtration media

> Post photos of the enclosure.

This is how the enclosure has been configured up until now. I have a 60W halogen flood to provide heat and was using a ReptiSun 5.0 compact fluorescent until recently, when I upgraded to a Reptisun 10.0.

Turtle is currently in dry dock as I'm treating for what I think is shell rot. I actually have a vet appointment tomorrow to have him examined for both the shell issues and the lesions.

This turtle is at least 10 years old, probably 15ish (I got him as an adult from friends who couldn't care for him anymore)

Here's the photos:

Basking Setup

Full Tank Setup

Food and ReptiSafe

Filter Media

u/iloveturtles08 · 1 pointr/turtle

I'm sorry for your loss :( It's wonderful that you are trying your best to save your second turtle. I suggest against using sand because your hatchling may choke/eat and possibly die from it. You can get unpolished river rocks at your local dollar store (I think in 32oz bags). I use a Fluval water filter with BioMax and Aqueon Pro heater, and Reptisafe water conditioner all purchased from Amazon (links below). The filters has lasted me 10+ years and still going strong - and purchase the replacement filters/Biomax when needed. For the heater, I did experience a problem with a defective water heater once, but I received excellent customer service from Aqueon who sent me a replacement immediately. Maintain water at 75-85ºF. You have a basking rock and UV lamps so that's great - maintain 90-95ºF. It's very important to have the right water/basking temperature and clean, pH balanced water at all times. Sending your little guy healing vibes and hope he gets well soon!




u/auryncharm · 1 pointr/BeardedDragons

Zoo Med makes a special dechlorinator with electrolytes in it that's meant for drinking water and bath water- I use this occasionally if the chlorine levels seem higher than normal in my tap water.

u/JaWoosh · 1 pointr/turtle

Could be both, to be honest. How is the tap water in your area? Where I live, I can use tap water, but I do add a water conditioner to it to neutralize the chlorine and make it safe for them.

Otherwise yeah I would definitely get them a UVB light right away, and keep it on 12 hours a day for them above a dry basking spot.

u/shrike1978 · 1 pointr/snakes

Use a dechlorinator such as this one. It removes chlorine, chloramines, and some heavy metals from tap water instantly, and it also puts in some beneficial minerals. I use it in all water that goes into any of my snakes' habitats, including the water I use to water the soil in my kingsnake bioactive.

u/lastknownthrowaway · 1 pointr/microgrowery

Yup, a small bottle of solution is all you need

u/ed077 · 1 pointr/PlantedTank

I've heard Seachem Prime works wonders to condition the water--getting rid of chlorine and chlorinamines. I haven't tried it myself, though. I use Aqueon Water Conditioner, but will try Prime once I run out.
I do the same thing as /u/RunL1keH3LL , I add my tap water to a bucket, add the conditioner, wait a day (to allow time to dechlorinate and to reach room temperature), then add it to my tank.

For me, lighting was the most difficult to figure out since you have to consider your tank depth and how strong the light (which is all new and confusing to me). I'm still looking for a strong LED light that won't break the bank and haven't found one that I like, although many people recommend the Finnex brand.
I'm thinking of getting a T5HO fixture and buying good bulbs to grow plants.

u/southerncoyote · 1 pointr/bettafish

You could add something call Safestart. It may or may not help, but it would be worth a try. It is supposed to add enough of the beneficial bacteria that grows when the tank cycles, but a lot of people see mixed results with it. I even tried it with one of my 55 gallon tanks, but it didn't help at all.

You will have the same water quality issues if you move him to a smaller container. Cycling is something that happens naturally when there is a source of ammonia and it will happen in any body of water. Adding another source of ammonia will most likely kill your fish so just leave him where he is and do the water changes every other day. Once the tank has completed its cycle you can do water changes once a week instead of every other day.

Always add water conditioner. It removes harmful chlorine and chloramines from the water that will hurt your fish and kill the beneficial bacteria that will grow when the tank is cycling. This is a really good water conditioner and it will last you a long time.

u/BluexXxDemonz · 1 pointr/Aquariums


I currently use the Fluval E100 heater on my 20gal tank and I've loved it so far. It has a very clear digital display that shines red if the water is, if I remember correctly, 2 degrees hotter than what you set the heater to and blue if the water is 2 degrees colder than one you set it to, and green if it's just right. It also lets you control the temperature to the half degree, which I find to be a nice bonus. The heater is a little bulky looking because of the cage that hides the heater, so keep that in mind. Also, I would recommend getting a cheap little mercury thermometer to stick on the glass. Maybe it's just me, but I don't always trust technology to work as it does 100% of the time so I use that as a check to make sure my heater is displaying accurately.


Here is a good video on different filters that are common for aquariums and how to modify them to be better than they are out of the box (for cheap)


I'm not exactly sure what you're referring to when you say cleaners, so I'll toss in a few different things. First off, a dechlorinator is a must for any aquarium, as tap water often includes chlorine which is harmful to fish. For this, many people, myself included use Seachem Prime. This should be used with all water changes.

Algae can be beneficial to a tank in a few different ways, but it can also be unsightly. If you decide that you want to remove algae from the glass in your tank, I would recommend the magfloat cleaner. If uses magnets to stick on both sides of the tank so that you don't have to put your hands in the water to remove algae if you don't want to.

Hope this helps a bit!

u/jackalnight · 1 pointr/Aquariums

Not really, thats a water conditioner, like seachem prime, it removes metal other stuff from tap water. If your going to buy a water conditioner, most reccomend seachem prime as do I, but other brands like api and tetra work fine too.

What you maybe thinking about is concentrate bacteria, like this popular tetra safe start plus while cycling water may take long and is great for the bacteria to grow, with this you can put the right amount in the tank, wait few hours and throw fishes in, but keep in check for water changes and keep a close eye on ammonia, ph, nitrite, nitrate and the other good stuff

don't reccomend guppies in a 10g, tetras can go with shrimp(tetras might eat them) and rams should be fine. I dont think you space to put both species

u/NewAgeAlice · 1 pointr/bettafish

So, the tetra betta safe conditioner isn't exactly the best conditioner (even though I briefly used it as well, so don't feel bad). The suggested brand would be Seachem Prime, which can also be found at your local Petsmart.

Could we see a picture of his tank? And how big is it?

Fin damage can be caused by sharp edges on decorations, or on the filter intake area. It can also be caused by nibbling, and given that he's a long-finned boy, it could really be either tearing or nipping.

At this point, I'd suggest two things: use pantyhose to test your plants and decorations (if the pantyhose snags, it's likely to tear your boy's fins and you can sand it down if it's a decoration), and use a piece of pantyhose to cover the intake part of the filter (the place where it sucks up water; you can use fishing line to secure the pantyhose).

If we could have a picture of his whole tank, I can help you further with fin damage/nipping.

u/Ask461 · 1 pointr/bettafish

API test kit - to test your parameters and see how much you have in ammonia and nitrites and nitrates
Stability - this is beneficial bacteria that will help cycle your tank. This doesn’t replace working on your cycle by doing water changes
betta safe - this is your conditioner that detoxis or removes and impurities of your water. I would suggest getting this in the future instead. Helps better with ammonia too prime
These are the hearty plants I like and are easy to upkeep depending on your light anubias

Hope this helps... most of all look into water changes and cycling...

u/mysticmemories · 1 pointr/bettafish

First some questions: What size tank are you getting? What kind of filter? You'll need to get a heater and thermometer too, as these guys love warm water (78-80). This page can help you in terms of how to set up a tank. Here are some tips from someone who started in the same place as you once:

  • Read up on all the links in the sidebar about betta care and the nitrogen cycle! Specifially this page as you already have a fish.

  • Bigger tanks are actually easier to care for and maintain because you have more water to dilute toxins that build up. If you have the space, bigger is always better. I keep my guy in a 10 gallon.

  • Get Prime as your dechlorinator. It's the best. They sell this at Petsmart.

  • Pick up an API freshwater liquid test kit so you can test your own water. This helps you know when certain levels are not right so you can take steps to fix them.

  • I have found that sand is way easier to keep clean than gravel. Debris gets caught in the cracks of the gravel and is harder to get out. With sand, stuff sits on the top of it and you can use a gravel vacuum to just hover over the sand to clean up the gunk. Way easier.

  • Remember to buy silk plants instead of plastic ones if you go the fake plant route. Plastic ones can rip their fins. No sharp decorations. A floating betta log or a leaf bed are nice additions.

  • I myself have used bottled bacteria to kick-start the cycle with success, it's debated on whether it works or not but if you would like to try it I would recommend getting the smallest bottle of Tetra Safe Start Plus (also at Petsmart). Follow the directions on the bottle but shake it up really well and use the entire bottle

    As the last poster said, daily water changes while he is in the bowl to keep him healthy.

    Lastly, good on you for asking for help about your fish. This is a really fun and rewarding hobby. I love trying to make the best possible environment for my fish and am always learning new things. Ask as many questions as you need to!
u/Krispyz · 1 pointr/Aquariums

Yeah, it looks like it has a filter on the back of the tank (so the back wall of the display is set in a bit and there's a filter compartment behind it). You would still need to put filter media (carbon, bio filter) in that. I'm not sure if the tank comes with it or not. You would also want to buy some water conditioner, if you're going to use tap water. This stuff is good and will last forever because you will use only a few drops each water change.

Otherwise, you get your soil or sand, decor, and plants into the tank AND YOU WAIT. You get your filter up and running and you let the tank cycle. You should read up on cycling the tank (the nitrogen cycle). Basically what you are doing is allowing bacteria to grow that will process the fish waste into non-lethal forms (ammonia and nitrite are lethal, bacteria turns it into nitrate, which with is harmful, but only at higher concentrations). Then you do water change to get rid of that nitrate. That's the tl;dr explanation, please read up on it! If you add fish before the tank is done cycling, 9.9 times out of ten, the fish will die.

Once your tank is done cycling (zero ammonia, zero nitrite) can you think about adding fish. If you are patient, this will take a few weeks. If you're impatient, you can purchase bottles of beneficial bacteria to make it go faster... you can get it down to about a week, but you'll want to test either way to make sure. Buy yourself a nice test kit. API Freshwater Master Kit is all you should need and is much accurate than strip tests.

Then you're ready for the fish :D

u/50percentdriedmango · 1 pointr/bettafish

Update: I really need some advice. The fin rot seems to be slowly getting worse/not really getting better, and my 5.5 gallon tank is still nowhere near cycled (the ammonia just spiked, and I purchased a master test kit so I can test for other levels.)

I've been doing water changes of about 50% every other day now. Is this enough or too much? There are some short clear bits that appear to be fin regrowth at the end of her fins and tail, but above the regrowth there are still portions that look like they're receding. I've been adding in Prime whenever I do a water change.

How much salt can/should I be dosing the tank with weekly?

I was reading online that some people do fish-in cycles with TSS and treat the water with prime to stop the fish from feeling the effects. It sounds like a bad idea since Beatrice has fin rot, but I'm getting really concerned and I really want her fin rot to start healing, especially by now. All of your help is greatly appreciated!

u/MagicTripLunchBox · 1 pointr/Crayfish

I use test kits from API:
pH, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, hardness

For their main food source, I use calcium-enriched algae pellets.

Not every cray will eat fish, so I wouldn't worry about that at all.

A 10 gallon might be ok for your crayfish right now, but it will eventually require at least a 20 gallon tank (ideally 30+).

Here are some steps you can take to help out your cray:

  • Remove any old food. Do a 50%+ water change, being sure to use a dechlorinating water conditioner like Prime. Make sure the water is about the same temperature as your tank. Repeat water changes at least every other week. Test your parameters to make sure they are ok!
  • Turn your tank lights off (if you have any) and add some more hiding spaces. Try not to spend too much time right next to the tank, or interacting with your cray in any way. It needs time to adjust to its new surroundings. It probably doesn't feel safe just yet.
  • Offer a small piece of algae wafer or blanched vegetable every other day or two. Remove it if not eaten.

    It's great that you're reaching out for more information. It sounds like you and your cray will really benefit from doing some more online research. Read up, there is a lot to learn!
u/AndroidGingerbread · 1 pointr/Aquariums

Here are some things that may or may not help you grow Wysteria:

  • I feed Seachem Flourish liquid ferts once per week (after the weekly water change).

  • I use Seachem Prime to condition new water.

  • I use Fluval Aqualife & Plant LEDs to light my tank. I have them on a 7 hours/day light timer.

    Other than that, I don't do anything particularly special. I don't aerate or CO^2 inject. I used Excel once for algae, and it totally melted most of my plants, so I don't recommend it to anyone.

    I should note that my tank is a 29 gal.
u/lostraddish · 1 pointr/PlantedTank

Hang in there! I've had this water cycling with the filter for about 4 weeks at this point and I'm still not ready to move my betta in, every couple days my nitrite levels will rise slightly so I'm waiting until it's totally stable. Its a lengthy process for sure but it's worth it knowing your fish is going into a safe environment. Don't want to risk illness.
(In case you're wondering, I transferred the 'cycled' water out of my tank into 2 5gal buckets whilst I spent the day scaping it, then I used a siphon to move the water back once I was ready. Even then I was doing 20% water changes to help the water clear up. I use prime to treat my tap water).

u/happuning · 1 pointr/bettafish

What country are you located in?

Petco has the dollar per gallon sale every so often. So, you could get a 10 gal for $10


Sponge filter

Air pump tubing



Edit: this is just basics. Other things you'd need: a hood, a liquid test kit, Food- this one is just okay, cheaper in store to get Omega one pellets, absolutely need water conditioner- this one is very concentrated

u/maecillo123 · 1 pointr/Aquariums

glad you came to us for help! ^-^
let me start with the basics :D
most likely the tank wont be filled
remember to let dechlorinate tap water, another recommendation is to get an rodi system to help you with the process, I leave normal tap water sit for around 2 days to dechlorinate with seachem prime
the best process that I have had success with is the drip acclimation one for both saltwater and freshwater but I always leave the bag on top of the tank for around 20-30 minutes to have the same temps on both tank and bag but these can change depending on the time the fish have been in the bag though it only should be avoided given the chance of the fish being severely stressed due to shipping
fish can stay in a bucket/bag for UP to large periods of time depending upon the fish, always aim for the lowest amount if possible as you don't know the condition the fish are in I would suggest to have water prepared and dechlorinated

u/94332 · 1 pointr/Aquariums

If your tap water has .25ppm ammonia in it, I would consider treating it with SeaChem Prime. If you're already using Prime, then your ammonia readings in your tapwater are nothing to worry about. Prime locks up the ammonia as ammonium which is way, way less toxic. It still shows up on ammonia tests, and it is still removed by your filter bacteria, but it's safe for the fish at those levels.

u/skiiiier · 1 pointr/bettafish

Aquarium light
Aquarium heater
Aquarium filter
Aquarium lid
Water Conditioner
Water test kit
And then you can get the aquarium (10g) at Petco
I strongly recommend live plants: Java ferns, anubius, Marimo Moss Balls, bacopa, cryptocoryne, Valisnaria, hygrophila, easy low light plants. Malaysian, Spider (not sharp), Mopani, and manzanita are all good types of drift wood for a betta aquariums

u/DatBoi2 · 1 pointr/bettafish
u/McJaeger · 1 pointr/PlantedTank

Look into buying some Seachem fluorish, it's got just about everything you need to fertilize your tank, except for the potassium. I would start with that to see if that fixes the issue. If new leaves start coming in damaged, or old leaves continue to brown, Seachem also makes a potassium supplement that you can dose in addition to the fluorish. I'd also recommend adding some source of bioavailable carbon to your tank, fluorish excel would be good for your needs. As long as you follow the dosing directions your fish will be fine.

You also say that your sister does changes every two weeks then cleans the glass by wiping the algae away. What percentage of the water would you say she changes? Also, got any pictures of the tank?

u/Kipplur · 1 pointr/PlantedTank

What are your thoughts on this

u/BeaglesBooksBaseball · 1 pointr/Aquariums

Hmm. You may want to try Flourish Excel then. It mimics CO2. I was using this with root tabs before adding in the other supplements with great results.

u/HelloHurricane · 1 pointr/Aquariums

Fishsauce_Mcgees method is definitely the most thorough way of getting rid of it. I've never been comfortable using bleach with anything that goes in my tanks though.

What I've found that seems to work is Seachem Flourish Excel (

I just use a dropper to put a little bit over the problem areas (you can treat it directly in the tank). After a day, those spots turn from black to bright red, and the dead BBA falls off, and eaten up by fish.

My tank was pretty bad, almost as covered as yours, but I treated it over a period of an entire month, little by little, and now it's pretty much fully recovered. For BBA on the glass, you can just scrape it off and not treat it. Excel just works really well for those places where it's hard to scrape off the algae.

Siamese Algae Eaters, if you can find the real deal, are known to work but they tend to outgrow eating BBA and go to eating flakes if you overfeed.

u/slidewithme · 1 pointr/PlantedTank

Both hygrophila and anarchis are stem plants, and as such would benefit from fertilizers to grow properly. Due to the nature of a stem plant, you can simply use liquid fertilizer as opposed to dry (like root tabs). The best in my opinion is Seachem Flourish. The bottle is $10-15 depending on where you buy it, and will last you almost literally forever in a 5 gallon tank. I think your dose would be about .5ml, which you'd do about once a week. There's 500 ml in a bottle, so it's not expensive at all. Side note: I highly recommend something like this to dose fertilizers with. It's easy to do too much/little when using just the cap.

Another thing stem plants really love is carbon. This is optional, really, but if you experience issues like yellowing leaves or the plant growing too slowly for your taste (both anarchis and hygro should grow like weeds, normally), liquid carbon will help. For that I use Seachem Flourish Excel in tanks where I don't have injected CO2. I generally overdose my tank on purpose when I want my plants to grow like wild fire (generally when I want to sell stems or propagate other parts of the tank). Note that Excel is harmful to invertebrates, so if you happen to add shrimp or snails in the future, use with caution.

Stems are great because when you trim them, you can replant the trimmings and make your aquatic garden as dense or as sparse as you want it to be quite easily. I always recommend stem plants or swords for beginners, since they're easy and pretty.

Both hygro and anarchis will grow just fine in low light with a little fertilizer. They will grow like kudzu on a barn with high light and lots of ferts and CO2, so they're versatile in terms of the environment you keep them in.

Also, my Betta loves his hygro. It's what he sleeps in. :)

u/FlyingPinkMonkey · 1 pointr/Aquariums

The conditioner is good for treating tap water. I have never used the stress zyme, but it seems alright for establishing some good bacteria. For fertilizers you can just buy some seachem flourish : and excel . Also be prepared to buy some root tabs if you are getting heavy root feeding plants like amazon swords and jungle val, they will appreciate the extra nutrients . Another option for fertilizers is to make your own with dry fertilizers. This method is much cheaper than buying the expensive commercial ones, so you can look that up and try it out if you want.

For the water testing kit, it is purely optional IMO but highly recommended. They are useful during cycling to check water parameters so you can confirm your tank is indeed 100% cycled. They are also useful for weekly/monthly tank check ups to see if anything is fouling your water (which can potentially kill your plants and fish!). You can either buy the testing strips or the liquid test kit. Both are pretty expensive, but you'll get the most bang for your buck with the liquid test kit-

u/Nc1107 · 1 pointr/PlantedTank

I used tablets but I didn't see any benefits from them I use seachem stuff weekly and it works really great and it's pretty cheap c02 seems to be pretty expensive to get into but I recommend

Seachem Flourish Excel Bioavailable Carbon - Organic Carbon Source for Aquatic Plants 500 ml

u/tenement · 1 pointr/PlantedTank

Is this the liquid CO2 you mention?

Sounds like my set up isnt too bad then, just need the light.

I'm excited to really focus on the plants in this tank.

Does it matter what kind of filter I get in terms of the plants? I was thinking a Fluval C3 hang on.

u/Ductapemaster · 1 pointr/PlantedTank

They're probably going to give you some sort of nutrient for the plants, which you may or may not want at first. Initially, consider the substrate you will be using in the tank. If you plan on having plants, gravel is not recommended. It's possible, but you'll see much better growth with something meant for plants. There's a lot of substrates out there designed for just that. Talk to your LFS about it, I'm sure they can give you some suggestions.

As for fertilizer, you may want to wait and see how things do with the proper substrate alone. Your fish and other fauna will provide macro nutrients for the plants (Nitrogen, Phospohorus, and Potassium), which may be enough for you at first. Do some research on your plants and pick ones that are easy maintenance and have low light requirements. Check out the forum I mention below for some help. They have a section just on plants that will give you some good ideas. Also browse around the low-tech setup sections and see what other people use!

If and when you are ready for the next step, there is stuff called Seachem Flourish ( that provides a lot of the micro nutrients your plants will need. I use it in my tanks and it works great. As I said before, your fauna provide macro nutrients, and the Flourish adds the rest.

If you want to get a little more complicated, there is a product called Seachem Flourish Excel ( that provides carbon for your plants in a liquid form. Be careful with this stuff as it is toxic in large concentrations. Just follow the directions and you'll be fine. This stuff works great in combination with the Flourish mentioned previously.

The LFS may try and sell you on both of those products (or their other-brand equivalents) initially. As I said, start with a good substrate as that is something that is difficult (although not impossible) to change once the tank is established. Once you get things up and running (you know about the nitrogen cycle, right??), then start adding complexity. I didn't do that when I got into the hobby and was quickly in over my head and my budget.

If you want to read further, I suggest you check out this forum: Either the low-tech or planted nano tank sub-forums will be of interest!