Best aquariumhydrometers according to redditors

10 gal is fine. I started my first SW tank a couple months ago and I got a 6 gal. Now, you will have to have to have live rock. Without it, it will be nearly impossible to have a stable tank. I suggest you get around 15 pounds. Get all the live rock you plan to have in you tank at once so your parameters don't get an ammonia spike if you have a fish inside. Aragonite sand should be fine. I would stay FOWLR (fish only with live rock) because corals are much harder. The cycle is also very similar. Set up your tank, add sand, fill with a few inches of water, add rocks and aquascape, fill up with water, add a deli shrimp, and you should be good to go. You will need some salt, a hydrometer, a good reliable heater, some lighting, a power head and test kit. And also a filter.
This is what I would get
http://amzn.com/B000260FUM
I would put the bio rings and carbon aside and replace with this,
http://amzn.com/B0002A5VK2
http://amzn.com/B004PBD4J4
Add the matrix when you start cycling, then add the purigen when you are getting fish. The reviews are speaking for the product. Purigen is simply a godsend
http://amzn.com/B00019JOSO
Go for a refractometer if you can afford it but this works fine for me as long as I tap it an there are no bubbles.
http://amzn.com/B001EUE808
The test kit.
http://amzn.com/B0036S4YZ0
This powerhead should do fine in a 10 gallon.
http://amzn.com/B003M7P9YU
This is one of the best most reliable heaters on the market. Many will fail and bake your tank but not the jagar.
http://amzn.com/B003EE5GUS
These make life a whole lot easier BN testing water or adding things like calcium. You get 10 so they should def last a while.
http://amzn.com/B008SJ1H7A
Get like 5 of these. They are extremely accurate and last around 3 months each. Wrap the wire around the tank and have one on at all times. They also help when doing water changes. You should also pick up an extra heater for water changes, via aqua and aqua top have good ones. These are made in china and sent out to companies like coralife to be package and sold for like 10 dollars, see
http://amzn.com/B0002DI4TO

Now, this is the salt I use for water changes,
http://amzn.com/B0002DJU0G
This should last you a year or two and is way cheaper then continually buying salt. I personally use tap water that has been heavily decholinated with this,
http://amzn.com/B00176CVK8
You should get your tap water tested for copper which can kill invertebrates. A 5 gallon bucket is really useful as is this siphon for water changes,
http://amzn.com/B002LL8BWU
This net is really fine and will catch most tiny debris
http://amzn.com/B008HPOCUE
You will probably find it cheaper in a store. I leave it in front of my powerhead for a hour or two every couple to days to catch debris and waste.
These tweezers help for when you don't want to get your hands wet.
http://amzn.com/B001CWDSYA
But they do start rusting after a lot of
use.
http://amzn.com/B0002E7ITK
This has been the best fish food in my experience but all fish should be fed a varied diet. This is a good staple and should be substituted with brine shrimp, mysis shrimp (frozen) and seaweed.
Not everything here is necessary, I'm just telling you what helped me make the jump to saltwater.
Here are some pics of my tank:

http://imgur.com/p3PP7X7
http://imgur.com/9kUaq1g
http://imgur.com/wtUfCb5
http://imgur.com/yl82GRn

One last thing, in a tank that size, draw a small line where you want you water level to be, when it goes below that due to evaporation, top off water. Test your salinity often in that tank. I use seachem marine buffer to deal with pH issues but chemicals and buffets should be avoided.

Have disposable income. :) I had gotten some overtime hours at work, so I went ahead and took the plunge back into saltwater (pun intended).

These were the steps I took so far. I'm not sure if I did it right or not, but I've been able to keep things alive without any die-off, so I've got that going for me. In total, I've spent probably around $300 for the whole setup. Couldn't be happier!

Step 1: Acquire aquarium. This one is the Aqueon Cue 5 gallon, which has a stock led light of whites and blues with "moonlight" option. Put your aquarium on a sturdy, level surface away from sunlight (or in indirect sunlight if you must).

Step 2: Add pump for flow. I'm using the 80 GPH Uniclife found [here on Amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZW6OHHY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Step 3: Mix saltwater. I use distilled water from the store and Kent Marine Reef Salt Mix. It dissolves so quickly! I seriously use a white 5 gallon bucket and a spatula to mix it. I keep my salinity at 1.024.

Step 4: Let the water come to room temp. Measure salinity with a hydrometer (like the Instant Ocean brand). Be sure to rinse it off with fresh water every time you use it.

Step 5 (optional): Add barely 1/2 inch of live sand. I used CaribSea, 5 lb bag. Yes, you will have LOTS left over. Use it for craft projects!

Step 6: Add live rock. Not just any old live rock, I'm talking about the stuff that's been at your lfs for freakin' ever in the dark, unloved corner. This is more established rock and will help your cycle move along. Currently I have about 3.5 lbs in there.

Step 7: Put some live rock where filter floss will go and skip out on filter floss or carbon. Seriously, somehow this works.

Step 8: Add water. Wait several hours for your ensuing sand storm to die down. You're welcome to leave your extra pump off for this part. I did use some filter floss in the filter to catch loose detrius, but once the water was clear, I threw it out. Once your water is clear, turn the pump back on. By now you should have a thermometer in there, too. My tank stays at 73-74F most days.

Step 9: Make a tiny mark with a permanent marker where your "full" water line is. Every day, top off your tank with fresh distilled water up to that line. That way you can stay ahead of evaporation and keep your tank water at a stable salinity.

Step 10: Wait about 2-3 weeks. Watch your rock spring to life! I had all kinds of fun critters crawling on mine.

Step 11: Take a water sample to your lfs or pet store to be tested (Petco does it for free, which is where I went). If your parameters are good, move on to the next step. If not, wait another week. If it's still no good, consult reddit or start over.

Step 12: Add your cleanup crew! This can be an assortment of hermits, different types of snails and so forth. I've listed my current stock in another comment in this thread. My only complaint would be to have more things that eat more hair algae.

Step 13: Wait another 3 weeks. Ensure your livestock is still alive.

Step 14: By now you may notice brown algae clinging to your glass and rockwork. It's the ugly phase, but it'll pass. Scrub lightly on the glass to get rid of the algae. I use a piece of filter floss (but I'll be upgrading to a magnet cleaner today).

Step 15: First water change! Follow the water mixing procedures from above. Then, drain out 90% of the water from your tank and refll it back to your "full" line with the new fresh water.

Step 16: Wait a few days, then get your water tested again. If it's all good...

Step 17: Add corals. This setup doesn't really allow for hard-to-keep corals (unless I upgraded the light...), so try to go for easy, low-light ones that aren't particularly aggressive. You can get them from your lfs, from frag trading groups or online at larger retailers.

Step 18: Wait about a month. By now, you'll see some die off and some growth on your corals. That's great!!

Step 19: Stay on top of your monthly water changes. Remember: the more livestock you add, the less time you'll be able to get away with between water changes.

So far, that's what I've got. I want to add some chaeto or other saltwater plants to liven up the space some more. Might get a yellow clown goby or more frags, then I think I'll call it all good.

I change my water once a month and scrub my glass when the algae starts to be too much. The tank is constantly growing and changing. I'm new to the hobby but I'll be happy to answer any questions you have!

https://www.amazon.com/Refractometer-Fishkeeping-Automatic-Temperature-Compensation/dp/B018LRO1SU/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=DU8CTA68Q2PZ&keywords=refractometer+salinity&qid=1550690064&s=gateway&sprefix=refrac&sr=8-3

I highly recommend getting this ... it can be crucial for nanos to get the exact salinity since a little change is more drastic due to low water volume .. I have a 10 gal nano and my success comes from weekly water change and spot on salinity

I looked up the humidity % for West Lafayette. You do indeed live in a pretty humid area - ranging from 71-88% in the next two days. By contrast, Vancouver (where in my experience slugs cannot survive indoors - including a basement apartments), the humidity is currently at 62-82%.

You can buy a cheap hygrometer for $5-10 in the reptile section of any pet store (example here or more fancy one). I use both of these types to monitor humidity levels in my slug terrariums. I would like to see you buy one of those and then post back what the readings are in your room.

In my tanks I like to see my humidity level in the 85-95% range, that's where I'm going to see the highest activity level from my slugs. Around the 80% level their activity level will be reduced. Around 60-70% you start to see defensive hibernation and clumping of slugs to preserve body moisture. Below 50% is not conducive to slug life. That should be your goal for your room. You can get there by running a dehumidifier, air conditioner, maybe just opening your windows and getting more circulation (alternatively, if it's more humid outside than in your bedroom, try keeping the windows always closed).

Slugs are nocturnal, so yeah, past midnight is when you're going to see them. They're not wandering around outside during the day, they're sleeping. If there's no food in your room, they might just be coming in because other slugs have been coming in. Slugs excrete pheromones in their slime trails, communicating sexual readiness ... other slugs wishing to reproduce will follow a potential mate's slime trail for quite some time. In other words, your bedroom might be some kind of destination spot for slug orgies. They also have memories which, according to studies last at least 4 months or longer, so even if your bedroom doesn't have food, if it used to have food four months ago by the previous tenant, that might be worth a trip to an adventurous slug. Then once the slug with the memory goes in, other slugs may follow the trail hoping to find food, romance or both.

I'm also curious about what the slug population is like outside your place, in the grass and any gardens outside. Take a flashlight (your phone flashlight is fine) at around 11pm, the day after it's rained if possible, and just shine a light along the grass and any vegetation. I bet there's loads of slugs out there.

From my reading, it looks like any analog dial style reptile or cigar humidor hygrometer should work a treat. I ordered one from amazon but still waiting for it to show up.
Exo Terra Hygrometer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00026053Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2M-KBbTK1JW4P

It's not overprice. It's actually a very fairly price and well thought out kit. There's some unnecessary things, and the stock nuvo lights are fine (I actually have them only cause I got a sweet deal), but I would rather get the tank only and different lights. Here's my
attempt to piece that kit together with more ideal parts:

NUVO FUSION 20 BY INNOVATIVE MARINE ($200 anywhere)
This kit includes the TANK WITH THE LIGHTS, which are $400 MSRP. Just get the tank at $200. Use the $200 you would've spent on a better light and fixture:


AI PRIME HD AND MOUNT ($225 for light MSRP, $30 mount, MSRP)
This is a much better light. Stronger. Controllable (able to control all spectrums, set a sunrise sunset schedule, all from a mobile app). The Nuvo lights are just on and off, with no switch. You have to plug them into outlet timers. The AI PRIME is way better, for only a little more.


20 LBS. OF REEF SAVER ROCK ($52 bulk reef supply)
This is actually a good price per pound.


100 ML INSTANT OCEAN BIO-SPIRA (NOT NEEDED)
If you cycle your tank properly, this isn't needed.


4 OZ CLORAM-X AMMONIA REMOVER (NOT NEEDED)
You shouldn't be using a chlorinated water source to begin with, so declorinator only enables bad habits. Get RODI water from a local reef store, or make your own, or at the very worst, use vending machine water.


20 LB. SPECIAL GRADE ARAG-ALIVE! LIVE REEF SAND ($30 amazon)
You definitely want at LEAST special grade sand. Google it. Grain size matters. Too fine, and you'll get a sandstorm when the water is moved.
https://www.amazon.com/CaribSea-Arag-Alive-20-Pound-Special-Bimini/dp/B000EM2BRO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1479312554&sr=8-3&keywords=arag+alive


HW-MARINEMIX REEFER SALT MIX (DONT GET THIS SALT)
Instead, get the gold standard:


INSTANT OCEAN REEF CRYSTALS ($50 for enough to make 160 gallons, Drs Foster and Smith, also, FREE BUCKET!)
Make sure you get REEF CRYSTALS if you want corals (it's the orange box/bag), or you can get just the regular INSTANT OCEAN (purple box/bag) if you're doing fish only. This is the most trusted and widely used and available salt. I recommend you use it, so your corals always get the same consistency of nutrients, since this salt is sold everywhere and reliable.
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=4856


REFRACTOMETER FOR READING SALINITY WITH CALIBRATION FLUID (THESE ARE UNNECESSARY)
Accurate? Yes. Pain in the ass? Also yes. Always having to clean these and calibrate them sucks. Get a standard plastic floaty arrow hydrometer instead.


HYDROMETER ($11 amazon)
https://www.amazon.com/Instant-Ocean-tk504-SeaTest-Hydrometer/dp/B00019JOSO


TUNZE CARE MAGNET NANO - 0220.010 CLEANER MAGNET (UNNECESSARILY OVERPRICED ITEM)
Everyone knows that when it comes to cleaning magnets, Mag Floats are the go to. Sure you can pay more, but you don't always get more.


MAGFLOAT SMALL ($12)
https://www.amazon.com/Gulfstream-Tropical-AGU030SM-Mag-Float-Aquarium/dp/B003WRKVUC


MARINE S PELLET FISH FOOD - HIKARI (THERE ARE BETTER FOODS)
The best widely available pellet fish good is New Life Spectrum.


NEW LIFE SPECTRUM THERA A ($10 most online places)
They have big pellets and small pellets. Make sure you get the small pellets.


HMA-S 50W FINNEX DIGITAL SUBMERSIBLE HEATER (YOU COULD BUY YOUR OWN FOR CHEAPER)


EHEIM JAGER 50W HEATER ($23 amazon)
These are pretty well regarded and reliable heaters. Avoid getting the $15 chinese heaters, for a few bucks more this is a brand you can trust.
https://www.amazon.com/EHEIM-Jager-Aquarium-Thermostat-Heater/dp/B003U82YEY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479313472&sr=8-1&keywords=50+w+heater+jager


HPS-100 FINNEX DIGITAL SUBMERSIBLE (GET ANOTHER FOR CHEAPER)
It's cool that the BRS team thought of this, but you can get your own large cheap heater for mixing water. Since it's a nuvo 20, and water changes would be around 2-5 gallons, a 150 watt or even 200 watt heater could warm up the water to match the tank pretty quickly.


EHEIM JAGER 150 WATT HEATER ($25 Amazon)
https://www.amazon.com/EHEIM-Jager-Aquarium-Thermostat-Heater/dp/B003M7P9YU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1479313666&sr=8-3&keywords=150w+heater


HYDOR KORALIA EVOLUTION POWERHEAD 600 ($29 Amazon)
https://www.amazon.com/Hydor-Koralia-Evolution-Aquarium-Circulation/dp/B004F461UA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479313724&sr=8-1&keywords=hydor+koralia+600


So as you can see, you can do it with better parts and remove unnecessary things, but you'd be paying $697 before tax. Personally, I would still rather part it myself, because I know I can find used AI primes with mounts for $150-$200 (check the classifieds of reef forums or you local club). Also, I don't have to buy some of this stuff because I'm already in the fish hobby and have leftover heaters, or have friends who are that can help me get started. But if you're in a hurry and want to start, or this is your first endeavor into fish keeping and have no fish keeping friends, the BRS kit is not bad at all and the convenience is nice.

PROTIP: If you do plan on buying something this big from BRS, i'll let you in on a trick. First, make an account if you don't already have one. Then, add the kit to your cart. Then, leave it there for a few days. You'll get an email reminding you that you have it in your cart, and since it's a large purchase, they'll give you a coupon (i forget the percentage) to encourage you to buy it. Then use the coupon and buy it lol. WINNING!

• $5 funf
  
  
• $4 vier
  
  
• $3 drei
  
  
• $2 zwei
  
  *$1 eins
  
  Thanks for the contest!

you could put a glass full of water in there to try to help.

If you think its that bad, go down to the pet store and pick up a hydrometer, for reptile cages. It should only be a few bucks. It won't be 100% accurate, but should give you a good idea of where you are at.

http://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-PT2466-Hygrometer/dp/B00026053Y/ref=zg_bs_3048857011_3

I have bought both this one that is not available anymore and this one with no problems with either. Until I get one that comes defective 2-3 times in a row, I am sticking with the cheap amazon regulators.