Best art knives & blades according to redditors

Howdy! I just got my printer today so this is fresh in my mind. I watched a lot of videos to understand what I needed and how to get everything set up. I would recommend checking out the 3DPrintFarm YouTube channel. There's a lot of great info in there. Here's a list of everything I picked up along with links to Amazon for the items I got off there. Hope it helps!

• Cutting Mat
  
  
• Microfiber Cloth for cleaning vat
  
  
• Activated Charcoal Mat to combine with printed bracket for better ventilation
  
  
• Link to bracket
  
  
• Paper Filter with Metal Mesh (Paint Strainer)
  
  
• Nitrile Gloves
  
  
• Funnel
  
  
• Metal Scraper
  
  
• Xacto Knife
  
  
• Sprayway Glass Cleaner
  
  
• Glasses Wipes to wipe bottom of vat
  
  
• Pickle Strainer
  
  
• Rubber Squeegees
  
  
• Sandpaper
  
  
• Precision pliers
  
  
• UV lamp for curing
  
  
• Toothbrush to clean prints in alcohol

For $40? No thanks. A nomal xacto is like $4 on amazon. For half what that costs you can get an xacto bundle that includes 10 different blades, 3 handles, and a zippered carrying case. https://www.amazon.com/ELMERS-X-Acto-Zippered-Storage-X5285/dp/B00JWFIKOC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1465386610&sr=8-4&keywords=xacto

That version comes with a "rear blade release" tool.

Unsure how to use it, but that's what my limited google search found.

http://www.amazon.com/X-ACTO-Designer-Hobby-Craft-X3254/dp/B002A2QTGK

I used this one from Amazon

Thanks! I have a bunch of large thick sheets of styrofoam and a good selection of small Xacto knives (http://www.amazon.com/Xacto-X5282-Basic-Knife-Set/dp/B00004Z2UB).

I can't give any tips other than just make sure you plan ahead. In my case I went for a very damaged and abandoned look, so any cutting mistakes would only make it better.

Near the end my dad made an electric styrofoam cutter for me (Basically a wire in between a coping saw with a current going through it). This made cutting thin bits significantly easier and faster, but most of what you see here has been done with the knifes.

I also advice to go with ISO 90 type Styrofoam, as this is much more compressed and will likely look a lot better. I used ISO 60 Styrofoam here, as I could not find 90.

Just take your time, be patient, and it will all work out!

I used a starter set of carving chisels [like these] (http://www.amazon.com/Starter-Set-of-5-Tools/dp/B001UYQPNG/ref=sr_1_cc_3?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1411898341&sr=1-3-catcorr&keywords=starter+carving+chisel+blades) but not those exact ones, and then this [Xacto carving set] (http://www.amazon.com/Xacto-X5175-Deluxe-Woodcarving-Set/dp/B00004Z2UD) when I got to the finer details.

I wouldn't consider it cheap. On Amazon, this is $13.22. Also on Amazon, you can get a 10,000 lb capacity tow strap for $12.99. For 27 cents more than the bottle cutter, you can get a 50,000 lb capacity tow strap for $13.49

It's a cutting mat by Argo. My desk is like the surface of the moon so a normal cloth pad would get destroy in a week and the only thing that's similar to a hard pad around my house are these. Oh and here's the same one as mine on Amazon for 20 bucks.

If he is a big warhammer collector and painter then it may not be a good idea to get him a random model as he may already have it or dislike that particular model. I'd suggest that you consider putting several smaller things in a box for him.

Here are some alternatives to an individual model that he may enjoy:

-Primers and paints (you can buy the GW brand paints, but I'd recommend Vallejo). A mix of metal paints (copper, brass, gold, silver, steel) would be a nice gift. And every painter always needs black so that would be a nice thing to add on.

-Paint brushes. A few very fine brushes would be helpful. Look for sizes 0, 5/0 and 10/0.

-If you know that he airbrushes you could buy him a bottle of 70 isp alcohol to add to any grouping of things you give him.

-Warhammer books are always a nice gift. If you can tell us if he collects Warhammer 40K (scifi) or Warhammer (medieval aesthetic) we can recommend books.

-Something like this would be a nice gift for him if he puts together a lot of models: http://www.amazon.com/Xacto-X5282-Basic-Knife-Set/dp/B00004Z2UB/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1415106833&sr=8-2&keywords=xacto

-A warhammer themed t shirt (you can find them on etsy and ebay).

• Basswood is a great material to start with, you can get boxes of practice blanks fairly cheaply online. Poplar works pretty well too and is available at most home improvement stores. Pine is a pretty horrible wood to start with because the grain is loose, inconsistent and prone to splitting. Harder woods like oak will also be difficult to start with.
  
  
• You can start cheap with an x-axto assortment like this, or get a carving knife set like this one.
  
  
• Things like Gouges Chisels and Rasps will be necessary if you want to move on to larger pieces, but good ones are a bigger investment.
  
  
• Spend some time in /r/woodcarving to get a feel for projects you might want to explore on your own.
  
  
• Hit up youtube for "Wood carving basics" or "Whittling basics" You might also look into "Chip Carving" if you want to do surface designs.
  

I would not recommend the citadel tools. They are quite expensive compared to other brands. I would recommend something like this. The mold line remover I think is unnecessary. You can just as easily remove mold lines using the back edge of a hobby knife blade. the file set might be nice to have, but again, there are cheaper options.

Unless you're really committed to spending your money at that one store or whatever, I recommend checking hobby lobby (or whatever your local equivalent is) for tools and equipment. Don't buy cheap, but don't buy expensive, either. haha.

Instead of using sheet protectors, get a roll of 3 millimeter mylar/duralar. I got the idea from 3mil_mylar, he does some good stuff. Over all, the stuff is cheaper than buying sheet protectors, and allow for much bigger stencils. I got mine from a seller on amazon here. It also works great with a heat based stencil cutter. As for adhering the stencil to the shirt, just use spray adhesive on the back of the stencil, wait for it to get dry and tacky, and then put the stencil on the shirt and cover your edges. Adhesive spray directly on the shirt will get icky and may not come off.

Xacto carving kit

Xacto X5175 Deluxe Woodcarving Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Z2UD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XDX2Cb61AZ2TC

I've been playing it for about 5 years now? I really do love the game and I know i'll be playing it for a long time to come. Even if I didn't, I would still love to take on the project, just for the sake of getting into woodworking.

I was looking at this kit on amazon, I thought I would be able to very carefully use a chisel on most of the board, but I'm just not sure. It does say it comes with routers, but I don't see if they specify the size.

http://www.amazon.com/Xacto-X5175-Deluxe-Woodcarving-Set/dp/B00004Z2UD/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1407618296&sr=1-1&keywords=woodworking+kit

Would you mind linking me to a router and template? I was googling around earlier and could not really figure out if i was looking at the right thing.

Is something like this what you're talking about?

My only gripe so far is that I usually trace my stencils with a fine tip pen but the ink would smear on this stuff. However, the ink holds if I use a sharpie. I've been told that you can buy duralar that has a matte finish and works better to draw on. I also just ordered a stencil cutting tool which is recommended for Duralar, so hopefully it works well because I have some heavy detail designs I want to cut out but I really don't want to deal with the hours of cutting involved.

I have never tried this, but a knife tip on a soldering iron could work well for removing supports if you dont get carried away.

For a TS100 I believe the K tip would work well.

If you dont own a soldering iron, something cheap like this might get the job done:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BRBZUG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_1AQ5CbJFCDW5K

I use a X-acto #4 stencil knife. I like it because its smaller and has a nice clean turn radius.
Amazon

Amazon has it.

https://www.amazon.com/Olfa-Limited-LTD-07-Paper-cutter/dp/B017M6QSI2

how about soming like : https://www.amazon.com/Hercules-Handheld-Electric-Styrofoam-Accessories/dp/B01NBDZFK9/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539725174&sr=8-3&keywords=hot+knife&dpID=413sitOveuL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Trying to advocate for one set of side cutters vs another is the closest /r/gunpla/ gets to a holy war & I'm gonna sidestep that whole issue.

My current hobby knife is a NT Cutter handle from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/NT-Cushioned-Needlepoint-Burnishes-D-1000GP/dp/B004INTIEY

It's actually a little smaller up near the blade, a little closer to the size of a pencil. That, coupled with the much smaller blades, makes it a different sort of tool & far easier for me to work with. Blades are cheap at around $6 for 40 blades, enough for a whole whack of kits. Plus the burnishing & needle ends are handy for pushing down decals.

Are you referring to this or this? Olfa seems like a good option. I used to use their autolocking safety knife when I first started, but it wasn't the most comfortable (obviously since it wasn't designed for hobby work).

I ordered it and the blades from Amazon. With a couple 40-packs of blades I qualified for free shipping, and I'm set for blades for quite a while...

For tablet repair, the tool I found myself most wishing I had was a flat-bladed x-acto knife. I had an iPad that was seriously, completely shattered. The worst of it was cleaning the glass that went to tiny shards where it was adhered to the metal bezel with tweezers and a menda-style spudger.

I bought myself this kit so that I don't ever have to go through that without tools again.

This is the best answer, Olfa is pretty much the standard for good quality snap off blade knives, tajima is maybe slightly higher quality tools but blades are the same. If you are cutting heavy thick stuff i recommend the type with a thumbscrew for blade lock instead of the faster slide lock style as they sometimes can come unlocked when you are pressing down hard.

I use this one for light duty precise cutting: OLFA 5019 SVR-2 9mm Stainless Steel Auto-Lock Utility Knife https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006O87O6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Qqthyb2DSX0Q5

This is what i have for heavier stuff: New Olfa Limited NL LTD-07 Paper cutter knife from Japan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017M6QSI2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_otthyb8RK59QF

Both are excellent and the blades are noticeably sharper and last longer than any other knife like this ive found.

I have had a really good experience with https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J21POXK/ref=twister_B06WGRL4B3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1. It is easy to use for a long time and the cap does not slip off.

They are $10 and readily available. I have cut many a Ribba frame's provided mat to great effect.

So depending on the type of carving you want to do. Like this is a good knife for spoons like wood spoons or salad tongs. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00343VCCK/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?qid=1420451007&sr=8-14&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

some of these no matter what. I wish idid when I started. So many wasted bandages. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002IY0IS/ref=mp_s_a_1_17?qid=1420451150&sr=8-17&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

The exacto set. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00004Z2UD/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1420451349&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70 is a good starting set. Eventually if you like carving you might upgrade to something like this. I have this kit. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0020LOY7C/ref=mp_s_a_1_28?qid=1420451227&sr=8-28&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

Yeah, that set is pretty much just for stripped screws. I get a lot of “DIY” repair guys that being me their phones when they can’t get them open anymore.

You can get away with the Essential Electronics Tool Kit, but I invested in the Mako Driver Kit since I also work on PCs, Androids, Consoles, you name it.

I will say, the Jimmy in the essential kit is total garbo and simply recommend grabbing some sort of exacto knife with a grip. Works for both opening phones and safely removing the wiring when switching out hardware on phones. Something like this.

You're gonna want these

I use this with the blades
it comes with.

Not the creator, but if I had to guess she went with the EVA foam floor matting method. All you need is a hot knife, a heat gun, and these cheap pieces of floor matting.

Hot Knife:
http://www.amazon.com/Xacto-X73780-Precision-Soldering-Knife/dp/B000BRBZUG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1347514744&sr=8-1&keywords=exacto+soldering

Heat gun:
http://www.amazon.com/Wagner-Power-Products-503008-200-Watt/dp/B00004TUCV/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1347514769&sr=1-1&keywords=Heat+gun

EVA Foam mat:
http://www.amazon.com/We-Sell-Mats-Interlocking-Anti-Fatigue/dp/B001EJPGG4/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1347514787&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=EVA+foam+mat

You could hold the sleeves on with some zipties. Cutting a slit through that material will be tricky however. Maybe something like a hot knife would do the trick? There's also this style. I know that stuff will fray like crazy if you cut it with plain scissors.

EDIT: added second link

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00004Z2UB?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title&th=1

There's a lot of ways to approach stenciling. I just started about 5 months ago and have a decent number of pieces completed, but i'm still learning each time I cut and paint.

I'll be happy to share a list of what I use, but just keep an open mind and remember that there's not just a single way to do this.

[] Materials []

• I use #11 blades [Link]
  
• I alternate between these two knives [[link]
  (https://www.amazon.com/X-ACTO-Designer-Hobby-Craft-X3254/dp/B002A2QTGK/ref=sr_1_22?ie=UTF8&qid=1501185899&sr=8-22&keywords=xacto+11+knife)] [link]
  
• Painters tape [Link]
  
• Spray Mount (Not spray adhesive - I just learned this last week) [link]
  
• 110lb cardstock paper
  
• Clear scotch tape
  
  
• As for paint I just started using Montana, which is a nice-to-have but definitely not necessary. I did a lot of my first pieces with Rusto - in general just stay away from gloss, super gloss, high gloss (it can work, but in general you will have an easier time with flat/mattes.) I went through a lot of trial and error with paint - I bought some Krylon paint which was at a higher price point and it was absolute shit (very watery and runny no matter how long I shook my cans.)
  
  
  [] General Tips []
  
  
• Making your stencils is definitely a part where people's methods differ (specifically in photoshop and breaking up your layers.) Just search YouTube and find a method that works with you.
  
  
• For larger pieces I use rasterbator. Stich them together with clear scotch tape and cut as usual. I tape both sides of the seams/edges.
  
  
• Take your time with your cuts
  
• Make sure your workspace is clean
  
• Let your layers dry
  
• Make sure your stencils are laying flat
  
• shake the shit outta your cans (especially with cheaper paint.) When you think you've shaken enough, shake for another 60 seconds.
  
• Mind the distance between your cans and the canvas (or whatever medium you're painting on)
  
• Take it easy on the paint, you don't need much to create a solid layer.
  
  
  Hope this is helpful, remember to share your pieces!

Olfa are my go-to knives for modeling depending on how thick the plastic is or how small the space is.

Tamiya Design Knife (uses Olfa blades with smaller profile for tighter spaces, more control and less cutting surface for wayward fingers to hit)
http://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-Craft-Tools-Disign-Gundam/dp/B002LE7L9G/ref=pd_sim_sbs_21_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=31RdPzv20SL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0PCTAJ865RXM0K7EW1TC

Olfa Art Knife (standard #11 size knife but with cushion grip, mostly use this handle with Tamiya Photo Etch Saws)
http://www.amazon.com/OLFA-Cushion-Grip-Art-Knife/dp/B0006O87TQ/ref=pd_bxgy_469_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0WY0VQ1T6D7H2CA4EAVC

Olfa 9mm Utility Knife (workhorse knife especially for scraping seam lines)

http://www.amazon.com/1075449-Fiberglass-Rubber-Utility-Knife/dp/B003UHUZ3M/ref=pd_sim_469_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=31djTrWZ53L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=10MAYVXVY951JXDQMBCD

That's narrow!

I did some stencils a while ago where the radius were 5-10 mm and I used the X-ACTO #4 Stencil Knife Set (X5204) on heavy bond paper. It took me a while, not easy, but at the end it came out OK.

I have to re-do it soon and I am dreading it.

in the last few years most places in the UK switched to safety box openers instead of these box cutters.

I feel uncomfortable with them. Specifically near my desk. I am considering something like this