(Part 2) Best art paints according to redditors

Arms and head from the FYE exclusive Thor and body + lightning from the Thor vs. Thanos Pop. Finally, I used Sky Blue Art N'Glow acrylic paint

I'm glad you like it😎

So in attempt to whiten my Ultra Boost I fucked them up with bleach and yellowed the foam. So I decided to make them white again and honestly it's really easy. Just buy some Angelus Leather dye, paint and Mink oil. Start with two coats of dye, then two coats of paint, let it dry for 8 hours or so and then spray on a coat of Mink oil. Bam you got new boost for a cheap price.

Here's some more pics - https://imgur.com/a/9ynNq

Angelus Brand Leather Dye w/Applicator - 3 oz

Angelus Acrylic Paint 1oz

Angelus Genuine Professional Mink Oil Conditioner Spray
no brushes need as both dye and paint come with one that worked out good for me.


Edit: oh yeah and I tried every solution before going this far. I tried two types of alcohol and vinegar with baking soda with no luck

Edit 2: it may look a little sloppy in the middle bottom right side of the sole (left pic). It looks like I painted the black part there but the actual boost foam started peeling a little from the thin black traction, so I ended up putting my brush in there but it's not on the actual black at all.

Now add this for the full noctis fashion experience

Sure man. It's actually not difficult to get start, there is just some initial investing into tools and materials. I can tell you what I use, but I can't say what the "best" way would be. There are also lots of other dudes on here that do this. /u/landlgrooming and /u/g_huck are the foremost experts.

I use Alumalite resins (mostly Clear) and dyes, as well as some PearlEx metallic pigments.

Resin: https://www.amazon.com/Alumilite-Clear-Casting-Resin-Part/dp/B008QM7ZDY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1491169026&sr=8-3&keywords=alumalite

Dye: https://www.amazon.com/Alumilite-Colorants-Complete-Liquid-Pigment/dp/B00GK7URAU/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1491169026&sr=8-16&keywords=alumalite

Pigment: https://www.amazon.com/Jacquard-Pearl-EX-Set-3/dp/B000BGSZCS/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1491169026&sr=8-5&keywords=alumalite

Note on those: you can buy the colors individually instead of the full sets

I use a Harbor Freight pressure pot and air compressor because you HAVE to pressure cast the resin or it will be full of bubbles.

Pot: http://www.harborfreight.com/2-1-2-half-gallon-pressure-paint-tank-66839.html

Compressor: http://www.harborfreight.com/3-gal-13-hp-100-psi-oilless-pancake-air-compressor-60637.html

Then you need a mold of what you are casting. Since I do the hybrid stuff a lot, I made square molds from HDPE (cutting board material) but for brushes that are all resin you can use PVC pipe (1.5" diameter I believe).

For finishing Alumalite you want sandpaper, Abranet, and Micro Mesh pads, as well as some sort of buffing solution (I use a bench buffer).

If you want to actually turn the brushes, you are getting into wood turning which is a whole other monster. You need a lathe, turning tools, chucks, and all sorts of other accessories. This is the really expensive part and there are lots of good resources on it.

If you have specific questions let me know!

My grandma's 92nd birthday was October 27. I bought teacups and a porcelain pen and decorated a teacup for her. I mailed it to her with some nice tea since she used to make me tea whenever she took care of me as a kid. I'd highly recommend getting the set of six since I practiced on a couple and messed up a bit before I got one that I liked.

It's spraypaint

I used to paint on my converse with Acrylic paint and it held up surprisingly well. Just make sure you use thin, slightly watered down layers and let the layers dry completely between applications. You can try Angelus Acrylic Paint, its meant for painting on leather shoes so its high quality and should stand up to typical wear and tear. People use it for custom paint jobs on really expensive shoes all the time.

​

Great. I only really have experience with extensions (borderless/full art). You will want good quality paints (I recommend Golden Fluid Acrylics http://www.amazon.com/Golden-Fluid-Acrylic-1Oz-Set/dp/B0027A3GOI).

I learned a lot from watching youtube vids like this one:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dApCVOsf9Zs

I also made a tutorial ages ago (I've got a lot better since then, but I think it's still useful):

http://www.mtgsalvation.com/forums/creativity/artwork/tutorials/341575-alt-altered-city-of-brass-tutorial

Try this!

between those two, i support the cotman.

HOWEVER, please consider the white nights set. i dont have this myself but it's a palette i've had on my list for several months now. it's the same price but the white nights is artist-grade (professional) paint. also, this Schpirr Farben set is also artist-grade. i also don't have this myself but is on my list. you can find reviews on youtube.

PM me if you're interested in my in depth review of the cotman pocket box set. i have this one.


EDIT: i'd like to add some pros and cons. the white nights set is very well known and has been around for a long time. many artists will vouch for it. however, the pans aren't of 'standard' size. as for the schpirr farben, that one is quite new i believe but it has great reviews. also, the metal box it comes with is versatile.

also note that these two sets i mentioned, both don't have the colour white. so you get 'more' colour which is very good in my opinion.

For when you're working traditionally, it helps to keep one of these handy. I got one last year after I saw Bradwynn Jones talking about his; it's helped me a lot when mixing paints to get the value I'm looking for.

When I'm working digitally, here's an exercise I did a lot when I started out and still do at least once before I start any new piece, just as a warm up. I start with color background that's at 50% on the value scale. (Any color will do as long as it's not actually gray. A neutral blue is usually what I go with.) I put down a black splotch on one side and a white one on the opposite, and then completely close the color sidebar to keep myself from cheating.

With a regular old hard round brush set to around 40% Flow and with the Flow keyed to pressure sensitivity, I hand-mix a splotch of 50% gray by eye right in the middle of the page. Then I mix a splotch that's halfway between that and the white and another for the black, so now I've got black, 75%, 50%, 25%, and white. Then I do another splotch halfway in between each of those til I end up with nine levels of white to black: black, 87%-ish, 75%, 62%-ish, 50%, etc.

Then I open the sidebar back up, use the eyedropper to sample each one, and see how close I actually got. If I didn't get within a couple of percent, I put down splotches of the grey I was trying to get next to the one I actually mixed to see how far off I was.

You can combine this with doing simple greyscale studies where you limit the number of gray tones you use. Like, you might do one with just black and white. Then do the same image, but add a 50% grey. Then do it again with 5 levels. Then do it again with 9 levels. Each time you have to use all the levels available to you and don't blend them.

If you're looking for a subject, set up a still life of all white-colored objects with a white background and set them under a strong directional light so you'll get very dark shadows.

Thanks! I use this Winsor & Newton set. (I use barely half of them!)

The Clarks look better than the Tieks (more classic looking and no toe cleavage). Clarks are built to be comfortable so you might be surprised. I think all three of your additional possible choices are also good choices. I am planning on wearing 4" heels. I know my feet will hurt eventually and I've accepted that once I've hit that point I'm just going to end up in these. Nobody says you cant have an extra pair of save my sole shoes for when your feet try to attack lol
but seriously if you love the tieks and its just the teal holding you back they make sole paint usually in red or black

So this guy was the subject of lots of experimentation.

• This is my first time applying a full topcoat. I used two coats of Krylon clear matte acrylic from a spray can. Turned out pretty smooth, despite me not having a proper setup during application. It smudged up a few of my Gundam Marker panel lines, but nothing serious.
  
  
• I messed around with more metallic candy coating. I reckon my Tamiya Silver Chrome undercoat should've been applied in multiple thinner coats, rather than the single coat I brushed on. My brush strokes are pretty visible. :/
  
  
• Instead of lame foil stickers, I painted all the "lights" with Aurora glow-in-the-dark paint. The paint itself has a grainy, toothpasty texture that made it a bit difficult to apply precisely. Some very careful light sanding in between coats, and a topcoat of clear nail polish, and I think it turned out alright. The brightness of the green glow is pretty impressive in-person.
  
  
• I added a couple extra panel lines on the shield using my newly-acquired Tamiya scribing knife. They're a bit rough, but with some practice, I'm sure I could turn out some wicked panel lines on future builds.
  
  
• The radome snapped off one if the sub-arm's connector tabs, so I had to glue it on there permanently. Luckily, I grabbed the Ez Arms kit, so I have a spare backpack, in case I want to reconfigure it with different weaponry.
  
  Overall, super fun, solid build. I learned a lot working on this one.

I’m by no means an expert but the following is what I’ve done to re-touch Chanel Lambskin leather. I learned this method from a fellow Replady (thank you so much!)

My bag from a TS arrived to me with a scratch on it (color was missing). I didn’t want to go through the hassle of shipping it back to China, so I decided to fix the issue on my own. I bought Angelus leather paint from amazon here

To fix the scratch on the bag, I mixed one drop of Angelus paint and one drop of water. Then applied to the area using a small brush in a few layers. Apply, let dry a few minutes, and repeat until you’re happy with the result. :)

Technically, a primer is just a medium to help the paint adhere, where as a base coat is a covering in a a flat colour to give you an even start.
Practically, especially with spray primers they are the the same thing.

Citadel 'Base' paints, are intentionally higher in pigment to give a better coverage.

As a practice I'd recommend always using a flow improver as it reduces the surface tension allowing the paint to flow more smoothly.

I did one of these and I put modge podge on the outside of the glass when I was done. I would NOT do that on the inside of the glass.

Craft stores, or amazon sell porcelain pens that do exactly what you want them too!

Alright i didn't really take any good photos of my work flow so ill do my best to put it in writing for you.
So Before I assembled any of the pieces they all got sanded in 120, 320, and 400 grit sandpaper. Then I joined all the blade pieces together with 3DGloop and filled as many of the joint cracks I could with Acryl Spot Putty. Then it was another pass with 320, and 400 Grit paper before the Blade got a coat with Filler Primer as for the handle I did the same sanding process for what I could but using a little 3DGloop and its included brush you can use it in light amounts as smoothing agent as well which helps a ton for the hard to reach areas on the handle. Then I joined all the parts together with 3DGloop, and applied more spot putty and sanded again. I gave the whole thing a few more coats of filler primer before going for color. I started color with gold hit those 3 spots, and after they dried I masked them off and hit the handle with purple. Once that dried i masked the handle and hit the blade with silver. For the "Dirt" in the cracks and recesses and the handle trim I used brown and light blue acrylic paint. I also used a little bit of Rub N Buff to give the blade a bit more of a shine. Once i did all that I shot it with come clear coat to lock it all in. Wow that was mouthful hopefully that helps you.

I've used Rembrandt (meh) and Derwent pencils - the Derwents are nice on the go, but my favourite so far is this:

https://www.amazon.com/Winsor-Newton-Cotman-Colour-Sketchers/dp/B00004THXI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491486681&sr=8-1&keywords=winsor+and+newton+watercolor

The Cotman sketchers kit. I have three tubes added to it - Payne's Grey, Ultramarine Violet and Leaf Green. There's three mixing spaces in the top, I just leave a bit of each colour squeezed in the top because it dries between uses, and I find it to be a good 'complete' colour kit.

If you want the 24 pan set, it's here: https://www.amazon.com/Winsor-Newton-Water-Color-Metal/dp/B001M6VMTY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1491486681&sr=8-2&keywords=winsor+and+newton+watercolor

I like the half pans for sketching, but if I'm doing professional illustrations in my studio, I usually use tubes (Holbein or Winsor and Newton are my faves). I do keep going back to the red in the Cotman pans though!

Good luck!

Here's the paint. Ouch, that's expensive right now! Honestly I'd recommend trying tape if you want a neater finish (though obviously you will need to find tape with very good reviews).

I've found that the best thing for controlling the amount of water to paint, is a dropper bottle. You can find sets of them on Amazon for pretty cheap.

Water is perfectly fine for thinning, so long as you don't over thin. Eventually water will reach a critical mass where it starts to break down the medium, causing the paint to start to separate, and that point changes between ranges, colors within a range, and sometimes even between different paint pots of the same color (You don't know how long that pot has sat on a shelf at the warehouse or store).

You can combat this by adding more acrylic medium, and for a long time, I enjoyed something like 5-10% matte medium to 90-95% distilled water ratio. This adds more medium for the pigment to bond to, and will make your paints go further. This, by the way is effectively Lahmian Medium.

I've since added flow improver to the mix (say 5-10 % medium, 30-35-ish % flow improver, and the rest distilled water), and have really enjoyed the results. Paints flow a bit better, and the flow improver also increases the drying time, so I have more freedom to play with my blends (and saves on how much dry time retarder I was using).

Also to expand on the thinning guide, generally, I'll use thicker paints for my initial base coat, and wet blends so around melted ice cream, as that will usually cover in a coat or two. I'll use thinner paints for my layering, so around skim milk. Also, if you haven't, look into making or buying a wet palette.

The placement and shapes of the shadows are great. But the values don't look very accurate. Accurate values are huge for realism. One of these can help, and practicing with it will help you see value better.

Gray Scale and Value Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007SQ2MIM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ZeuVCbMVXT4M6

You can print your own or make one with pencil. I like to label which pencil I used for each value when I make my own.

+1 on epoxy
Two things that work for me with epoxy:

1. Use painters tape to keep epoxy from running - especially in through holes.
   
2. Try to make the epoxy a visual element - pigment dyes can really make the piece shine. This is an example off amazon but also available at craft stores:
   Jacquard Pearl EX Set (Series 3) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BGSZCS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_2fXPwbX42TRAW

1. I usually have decent experiences. I don't know, I haven't done much for it in awhile. But I know THIS year will be awesome 'cause my daughter is going to be dressed up and ready to go.
   
2. please let G0ATLY be safe this year. I always copy and paste. XD
   
3. This marker is on my Stuff I WANT list.
   
4. Uh, despite everything wrong with me, I'm a good mother, and I love my daughter like no other. <3 So there is that.

I currently use Golden and have heard great things about Citadel. Of course they come with a higher price tag. Michaels consistently has 40-50% of coupons for a singular item. I went in and bought a box of 10 acrylic paints for under $40. The link below is for the same box that Amazon is selling:

https://www.amazon.com/Golden-Fluid-Acrylic-Assorted-Colors/dp/B0027A3GOI/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3DTHNODVFQWHG&keywords=golden+acrylic+paint+set&qid=1569989249&s=gateway&sprefix=golden+acrylli%2Caps%2C173&sr=8-4

I’m new as well but I’ve done lots (maybe too much) research. What is your budget? From what I understand Windsor & Newton Cotman paints are a good student/hobby grade paint. They sell them in nifty little 12 pan kits that pretty much provide all the colors you need to make good mixes.

Here is a travel set for about $13:
Winsor & Newton Cotman Water Colour Sketchers Pocket Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004THXI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qq8Tzb8SY82G3

If you are willing to spend a little more on paint for artist grade I hear excellent things about these: St Petersburg White Nights Watercolour : NEW 12 Pan Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006FHNE3C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Gt8TzbT5PD01H

I’ve seen these really cool portable brushes: High-end art travel painting brush Synthetic Sable Round Hair Short Handle Brush for Acrylic Oil and watercolor painting 3Pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M3VMDED/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5r8TzbVV97JR3

Or you can use a water brush: Pentel Arts Aquash Water Brush Assorted Tips, Pack of 3 (FRHBFMBP3) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AX31TZO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Os8TzbN7TW9AQ

As for Paper, I really want one of these myself: Moleskine Watercolor Album Sketchbook - 5"x8" (Spanish Edition) https://www.amazon.com/dp/8883705629/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vz8TzbWWMHY1M


I hope this helps! :)

If you're starting you could buy a set like this. I mixed the colours I needed from that kind of selection, and that works fine as long as you mix enough and paint all the pieces requiring that colour at once.

Using a wet pallet helps keep your paint from drying out or skinning over on you.

Definitely want to use a dull coat, I don't think any minis look good glossy.

Also, your best bet is to head over to /r/minipainting

With this:

https://www.amazon.de/leuchtende-hellgr%C3%BCn-ungiftig-Wasserbasis-SpaceBeams/dp/B018GEJ3LI/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1486132022&sr=8-6&keywords=leuchtfarbe


It glows longer if a thick cover is applied.

Rubbing alcohol - I have no idea! I think it does break down the colours but USE IT GENTLY because you can bleed right through paper if you're not careful. My mom showed me how to do this when I was young and just learning how to use Prismacolours.

Generally when needing to fill something with solid colours I'll use a circular motion for even coverage rather than line-shaped strokes, but yeah, that's basically the idea.

Currently the lighting on the picture is kind of undefined - you have shadows underneath things, but light plays in strange ways and reflected / refracted light also does weird stuff. This tutorial kinda explains things better than I can: http://theartcenter.blogspot.se/2010/03/sam-nielson-painting-process.html - Basically, you want to think about where your primary light source is, how the material you're colouring will interact with that light, and then the shape of what you're colouring. Rimlight is the white around the edges of say, Lugia's wings.

I will recommend these watercolour sets because I LOVE them: http://www.amazon.com/Pelikan-Color-Opaque-Watercolor-Set/dp/B00170ZSLS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462365768&sr=8-1&keywords=pelikan+watercolours Used them for years. They're student grade but I love how they work. Make sure you're using sturdy paper!

I am using these watercolours currently: http://www.amazon.com/color-Kuretake-picture-letter-Unleashed/dp/B001MPA6W4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462365862&sr=8-1&keywords=japanese+watercolours They're flipping fantastic, if not a bit more expensive.

LMK if you have more questions / need more clarification. :D

I use pearl ex. I have all 3 sets and mix and match. These were made using series 2.

Jacquard Pearl EX Set (Series 3) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BGSZCS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZybBxbEBZ2KQ5

Awesome! Don’t be shy to share some pics!

If you’re not using it already, the [Pledge Floor Gloss](Pledge Floor Finish Gloss 27 Oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002YC438C?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share) definitely helps a lot for the dotting step so it’s worth tracking some down. As I mentioned in one of my replies above, the only way I can tell which of the models were painted with the catgutt wash recipe vs. GW Skeleton Horde is by looking at the dots. The first 5 I painted were without the floor gloss and the dots are not as neat because I was basically trying to paint them on vs. depositing a small bead onto the model.

If you can’t get that stuff where you are, I think you would get similar results using [Acrylic Flow Improver](Winsor & Newton Professional... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0060KRGQA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share).

Let me know if I can be of any help as you paint yours up. Catgutt has been really helpful to me and I’m happy to pay it forward!

I used black, and a mixture of tangerine, white, yellow, and red for the orange. Look up sophiesophs ‘s youtube tutorial, helps a lot. Good luck with your custom!

Angelus Leather Paint 4 Oz Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196T916Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GLv1AbS7C4QKS

You can get translucent glow paint on Amazon or most arts & crafts stores. They dry clear, but when a black light hits them they will achieve the look you're going for. Link to Glow Paint on Amazon

Here's a set: Acrylic Paint Set - Artist Quality Paints for Painting Canvas, Wood, Clay, Fabric, Nail Art, Ceramic & Crafts - 12 x 12ml Heavy Body Colors - Rich Pigments - Professional Supplies by MyArtscape https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X3O70B2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i6n6BbX0RAZ7D

My point is you'll only need a gram of black for this Venom project. That other bottle would last you fixes on 1,000 figures.

https://www.amazon.com/Golden-Fluid-Acrylic-Assorted-Colors/dp/B0027A3GOI

This is pretty much all the paint you need, especially if you are learning it will help your color matching skills to mix with primaries for a while. You will pretty much only every run out of titanium white. You barely need any paint so the nice stuff like this isn't a big investment to pick up.

I do it to de-stress and I really recommend trying it out, I ruined a lot of basic lands at first while I learned but even that was fun. The end product is really just a nice bonus on top of the hobby, don't worry about your results, no one else will.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H75AFHS/

I ordered the set below when I started just to experiment with and they've been great!

12 Colors Epoxy UV Resin Color Dye Colorant Liquid Pigment,10ml Each,Translucent https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NQ4Y85H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JAVQDb44R8EDD

I recently did the same thing! I know you said you were looking to invest a little more, but if you're looking for a relatively inexpensive set just to test the waters, I purchased this one on Amazon:
Pelikan Opaque Watercolor Paint Set, 24 Colors Plus Chinese White Tube (720862) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00170ZSLS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uFgtxbXGW3N97

I'd recommend! Have fun!

Hello! This is such a cute contest :) Here's my entry:

• Pattern: Good luck cat
  
• Yarn: Bernat Super Value Yarn in "white" and "rouge"
  
• Other materials: Stuffing, gold bell, felt in gold, red, black, and orange, and a black paint pen.
  
• If you decide to make the kitty, I would like these NYX pencils.
  
• Silly phrase =P: I am a yarnasaurus rex, see me crochet! (Except.. Not really, I can only make a long string.)
  
  Okay, hopefully you're open to doing a project that involves felt/a bell/non-yarn things, but if not I still think you should consider doing this cute good luck kitty sometime in the future! Thanks for hosting :)

If anyone can reference what this "magic marker" is I'd be interested in creating a similar mug.

Edit: After a few minutes of Internet magicking I found these which seem like they might do the job - if anyone has a better brand though... (and one of the reviews say it works better if you bake the paint on in the oven).

[How about this?](https://www.etsy.com/listing/475736456/2-yards-glass-red-round-evil-eye-beads?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=2mm eyeball&ref=sr_gallery_1)

or

this?

I think it's going to be really difficult to find any eyeball beads that small, but you could always buy tiny (2mm or so? Would that be small enough?) white rounds, and then buy porcelain markers in red, black, and the desired iris color to draw your own. It would probably be significantly cheaper, if not faster, to DIY it than it would be to search the world (IMHO).

Fire Mountain is a good plans to get undrilled rounds, or you could go to Joann's or another craft store, I think.

What kind of finish are you going for? If you want a glossy finish you will need to use a primer and multiple sessions of wet-sanding and re-priming where needed.

This Han Solo Blaster was my first experience with sanding/priming/painting. I didn't want it glossy smooth, so it was a good first project.

This is primed with Rustoleum filler primer and dry-sanded with 800-grit paper. Then airbrushed with acrylic paints. I added silver Rub N' Buff on top of the paint to create the wear effect. Finally I sprayed with rattle-can matte lacquer.

:)

This stuff: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BNEXERS/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_3?pf_rd_p=1944687722&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00BD63C8W&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=028BDSJKHKJHRT8S4MHY

It doesn't glow as brightly as the green but... it's not green...

I was just looking at options last night for dupes, I own a pair of black Calvin Klein pumps
I’m thinking of customising. Angelus sells red paint
with a hardening agent specifically for repair of the soles of your heels (usually Louboutins). However. There are reviewers that say they have needed to use about 3 coats to create their dupes then put a high gloss coat finisher on that to protect the paint (which is highly recommended for prolonging the life of the paint). If you are interested still in that red sole without spending boatloads, it can be a helluva saver. Good luck!

At the stage of cutting out plywood circles for my standings board.

What did you do about paint? Going to copy this video but there are so many colors that I wasn't sure if an acrylic paint kit like this work

https://www.amazon.com/MTN-XXXL-Maximo-Spray-Can/dp/B074WJSHNV

Been doing some reading and hear this stuff can be used on the rubber portions. If you have a steady hand I think they will turn out well.

https://www.amazon.com/Angelus-Leather-Paint-Oz-White/dp/B0196T961O

For sketching or outlining you can use 2B or HB. It is actually not that relevant just don't press very hard because creates dents in the paper. (I do this all the time and it's bad practice.)

I use layering and usually go with 2B for the darkest shades then add a layer of HB then layer of 2H. Using layers is better than pressing hard because it does not smooth the paper. You can even do few layers with 2B to get a darker value. I use 4H for softening the edges.
A grayscale value can help you to decide how dark to go in different areas:
https://www.amazon.com/Color-Wheel-Scale-Value-Finder/dp/B007SQ2MIM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504839331&sr=8-1&keywords=grayscale+value+finder

Also the paper you use matters. If it is very smooth then it is even harder to get darker values. The one in the picture looks like it has a bit of a tooth to it which is good.

I have a set of Pelikan paints that has spectacular Gold and Silver paints, I have no idea whether these are common colors, but after avoiding them for years and finally rediscovering how much they add to a painting, I totally recommend them!

http://www.amazon.com/Pelikan-Color-Opaque-Watercolor-Set/dp/B00170ZSLS

I printed the plugs with cavities for the logos, then mixed some of the white with different alcohol dyes (128 drops per 30ml of white gave some nice colors) and used really fine tips to fill them in and put it under the curing lamp. After they were cured for about 15 minutes, I wet sanded them smooth, from 500 grit to 1000 to 3000.

Bottle set: 30Milliliter Precision Applicator... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CMQSWKJ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Alcohol Dyes: 12 Colors Epoxy UV Resin Color... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NQ4Y85H?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Looks like she's using acrylics? We don't know what she already has, so it's harder to make suggestions. If she's using student grade acrylics, she'd probably be super happy about artist grade.

You could also get her a pretty badass set of professional watercolors and paper for that price if you think she might like that kind of medium.

Or oils, or markers....

You can try this stuff. Not sure how it holds up on exterior surfaces but I had good luck with it on interiors.

https://www.amazon.com/Rub-Buff-Metallic-Silver-Leaf/dp/B013PYR4WO/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1493060266&sr=8-4&keywords=rub+and+buff

Since she’s been doing this for a few years, she might be interested in higher quality watercolors. Daniel Smith is a well loved quality brand, and they have a decently priced intro set.

The tubes are kind of small, but worth it. I’ve personally used it and learned a ton about color mixing using just the 6 colors. Blick carries this set and a ton of open stock colors, but recently my local Michaels also started carrying the sets as well.

If she paints with metallics at all, check out Kuretake paints. Really well reviewed!

Good luck!

This is the stuff!

Very small container, very powerful paint!!

Hmm, it sort of varies with a lot of stuff, but Prima is pretty portable, as is White Nights. Sennelier makes good stuff as well.