Best artist painting supplies according to redditors

We found 2,366 Reddit comments discussing the best artist painting supplies. We ranked the 948 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Airbrush painting supplies
Paint finishes
Paint mking materials
Paint primers & sealers
Artists paint thinners & solvents
Palette knives
Palettes & palette cups
Paint mixing trays
Air painting kits
Paint-by-number kits
Paint mediums & additives
Paint pens & markers

Top Reddit comments about Artists Painting Supplies:

u/1jl · 34 pointsr/blackmagicfuckery

Shit isn't rated that well though

Almost everybody is saying it's not drying all that black. The pictures show clearly visible edges. Doesn't look great.

u/CornflakeJustice · 14 pointsr/Warhammer

Also not the original commenter, but I just bought an airbrush a few months ago and did a (read way too much) research into it. u/darcybono has pretty excellent advice on the Badger Patriot 105, it's a great brush.

This is a copy/paste from a conversation I had awhile back where someone asked about them like a month after I had started using mine. The sotar refers to the Sotar 20/20 the brush I wound up getting. I find the cone is a little smaller than I'd like, but haven't gotten a medium tip yet so I know it can go bigger.


>Amazon was fine for the sotar and this was the compressor I got.
>I also grabbed this cleaning kit but I don't use the upper brush holder because it doesn't fit the sotar. I actually 3d printed a stand for mine.
>You'll also want Vallejo airbrush thinner, iwata airbrush cleaner, and I recommend distilled water.
>If you haven't swapped your paints to dropper bottles I heavily recommend doing so. The GW pots really suck for it, though you can mitigate that some by using pipettes. Just make sure to get an agitator that isn't reactive like, I use hematite beads.
>Let me know if you have any other questions!

It's super fab, the compressor is quiet enough that I can use it when the house is asleep (I'm in a basement office of a two story home) I've used it a bunch for priming and have a couple projects I'm working toward where I'll be using it for base coating. I got one of the Munitorum Cargo Crate boxes and after testing basecoating on them I'll be moving to using the brush to basecoat my marines and such.

u/dontwantnone09 · 13 pointsr/homegym

I used a wire wheel brush on my wired drill (a kit like this:

Then just wiped them down well before painting. For the paint:

Then I used the Sharpie Oil Paint Pens for the lettering ( Depending on the size of the lettering, you might need different sizes.

u/meatbeater · 13 pointsr/Warhammer

As a fellow Tau player I just have to correct something, they arent robots. Theres little fish face alien fuckers in those suits.
Yes they are fantastically awesome !
If you hit your local shop on weekends you will very likely find people who will be incredibly nice to you and will be very happy to help you learn to paint. This is usually a great bunch of fanboys and we love talking to newbies :) My son will talk for hours on how awesome orks are and his buddie will tell me how amazing Chaos is. I play Tau, Space Marines, Eldar & Necrons. oh i'm 47 so the habit will last your lifetime.
As for what equipment, I suggest an exacto knife for removing tiny bits of plastic. A task light with a magnifying glass is awesome. A good set of brushes & an Army painter kit. Links are below. Paint scheme... dude they are all awesome. What do YOU want ? Dont go crazy at first. start simple, 3 colors and basic bases. As you get better you can add details. Please post photos of your progress and never be afraid to ask questions
For the greater good !

Light -

Paint -

Brushes -

u/CinnaVanilla · 10 pointsr/bulletjournal

It’s called a waterbrush pen. It looks like OP used one from this set: Pentel Arts Aquash Water Brush Assorted Tips, Pack of 3

Edit: typo.

u/efuller5525 · 9 pointsr/Warhammer40k

First comment:

Please upvote this by default so it stays towards the top. I'm still learning how2reddit

So I am NOT an artistic person so this is especially anxious for me. But, I needed something to keep my hands busy that wasn't masturbating, so here we are.

I have probably over studied techniques and materials, and I want this post to be a "documentary" if you will. Where someone who has no business painting is going to be doing just that.

So, I'll be documenting my pitfalls and approaches to everything here. With all of you lovely people, it'll also hopefully be a central location for someone like me or just wants to get into 40k can refer to.

Disclaimer: I'll be at work until 5pm EST. But my job is pretty cushy so I'll be adding planning details throughout the day

Tools and Such

Well, I probably overspent here. Only because I'm lazy and didn't want to make the drive to harbor freights. But then again, paying the premium to help support my local game shop is going to give me some karma in the long run. Here's the list of things that I ended up picking up:

  • Wire Cutters
    • The game shop charged me $16 for them lmao. I hate myself. But they're used to cut the pieces out of the sprues. I was using a box cutter at first, and in no time I nicked myself pretty badly. Just buy them. Again, Harbor Freights.
  • Box Cutter / Exacto Knife
    • I used it to trim off the excess from the sprues. The box cutter worked, but the exacto knife was a bit better because of the handle and the gradual width in the blade helps with control when you need it, or the finer point when you need to get into smaller areas.
  • Paint Brushes
    • So, I spent a lot on one pair and then minimal on another. The A Lot pair was from the game stop ($16 for three types), I figured these would be much higher quality when dealing with the tiny pieces. I went to walmart and bought a set of 8 as well for $5. I'm intending to use these on things like terrain because they're larger in size and hiding issues from crappy brushes is going to be easier on terrain than it will be on a mini the size of 6 quarters.
  • Filing tools
    • Honestly I'm not sure why these are needed. I thought it'd help get rid of the excess sprue on the models but it leaves a scratchy texture. I'm pissed about that. Unless someone here will tell me otherwise, just use your exacto knife
    • If you're just starting out, DO NOT GO BUY THEM INDIVIDUALLY. Its too expensive. My local shop sells them for nearly $5-$8 a bottle. Buy THIS. Its a ton of typical colors and drops the individual price down to $2.80.
    • Paint sets are always going to be your best friend, from what I've found. Citadel paints for example are really expensive at my local shop (like $5-$7 each expensive) But something like this is a huge savor., bringing the unit price down to $3,63.
    • Shading seems to overhaul the look into something more professional, so you will want to buy two separately. My buddy suggested two different ones, Black and Brown.
  • Wet Pallette
    • I am yet to have this conversation without the other person talking to me like they're running for president. Wet Pallettes are a necessity. They ensure you do not waste paint, keeps your paint consistently viable while using it, and helps with storing it. I've heard a couple of days, others say months. Who knows. I'm yet to start painting, but I'm just going to say don't even mess around and just get/build one.
    • Tabletop Minions has a great video to show you how to make one for the lo-lo.
  • Mini Painting Holder
    • If you're not looking risk smudging the paint when you're holding your mini, then this is for you. Bonus points for reducing your chances of arthritis.
    • You COULD get something like THIS. But I feel that because it holds onto the sides, you can't really use it to paint the base.
    • What I ended up doing was buying 3 bottles of champagne, cutting off the top of one of them, and then gluing & duct taping it all together. I haven't tested out its balance yet but odds are, I'm going to have to do something so its stable and I can rest it on the table standing up without worry. Bonus, I was pretty drunk for a bit.

      Theory is Great and All (11.13.19)

      So here are my updates from actually painting.

  • Mini Painting Holder
    • LOL. Welp. didn't turn out as expected. Glue didn't stick and I had to use so much duct tape that it looks like a toxic sushi roll. Yum. We'll see how it works when I get to the actually mini painting.
  • Paaaaaint
    • Welp. I'm pretty sure I added too much water. I also definitely did not mix enough of it. I'm going for a deep green metallic look and only mixed enough for one coat..... lmao. Thankfully its just the 1st so I'm hoping when I mix a boatload of it, even if the hue is different, it won't matter much.
    • Wet pallete: Definitely worked out. Do it.
    • Because of the paint being too watery, you can see some spots where it pooled. Again, gonna take it easier on the water the second time around and hope it covers up the bad stuff
    • In being careful with the finer details, I didn't care too much. Some paint here and there won't change much and should be unnoticeable after a few more careful coats of the actual color I want to use, when I get there.

      Life Sucks and I haven't gotten much done (11/15/19)

      So I was only able to apply a second coat of to what I've already done. But honestly, not too shabby! Apparently I didn't water down the paint too much.

      Also, I recently switched to a different cell phone carrier, and got a $200 prepaid card.... So I'm getting these.

      There's a blog that I found (will have to find it again later) that recommended these.

u/santafemax · 9 pointsr/Warhammer40k

FIRST, Read this guide (It should answer most questions)

Then, My intro recommendations: (I've included Amazon links, but you can likely find better prices elsewhere)

Badger Krome (a solid intro airbrush)

Compressor (make sure it has a moisture trap and hose or purchase these seperately)

Respirator (a must have for safety):

Cleaning pot (pipe cleaners optional)

Other things you will probably want

  • Airbrush medium for thinning paints
  • A spray booth
  • pipettes for transfering and mixing
  • wash bottles for cleaning
  • airbrush cleaner (I use windshield fluid)
u/pxpxpx · 8 pointsr/modelmakers

That is a pretty shitty airbrush.

  1. It is single action which means you have to adjust the nozzle to get the spray pattern needed for the paint viscosity you have. It's OK for "I just dont want to use rattlecans"-use. But you will not get much of the benefits a proper dual action airbrush will give you. Which means you will soon grow out of it and spend money on a dual action airbrush.

  2. Siphon feed airbrushes like this one also requires higher pressure to operate. Which usually isn't a deal breaker if you have a noisy shop compressor or such. It just means the compressor have to work a little more.

  3. Siphon feed airbrushes are a pain to clean compared to gravity fed airbrushes. You can of course have a jar of cleaner handy and just spray it through the airbrush once done. But you'll end up with a bunch of jars of paint and jars with cleaner that you will have to switch between. Which leads us to #4

  4. All those jars of paint will have its contents exposed to air, either when transferring from the original container to an airbrush jar and/or when you switch tops on the jar you connect to the airbrush. Which leads to paint drying out in the jars and constant fiddling with pressure and the needle adjustment.

  5. Did I mention you'll need a jar for every single hue you want to paint? It's great if the connector screws onto your paint jars, but if you want to shoot Humbrol enamel paint and then some Tamiya you will need separate jars to store the paint. Which means more money spent on jars for an airbrush you will grow out of really quick.

  6. As u/windupmonkeys wrote. It's a re-branded cheap airbrush with God knows what connections (looks like Paasche or some similar proprietary connection on the picture) and parts. Which leads down a pretty boring rabbit hole when you need to find spares or connections to compressors.

    For €10-15 more you can get yourself a much better airbrush such as the Harder & Steenbeck Ultra or the Iwata Neo.

    tl;dr: Buy quality, cry once.
u/Route66_LANparty · 7 pointsr/Warhammer

> When moving a unit along their movement value'd distance, do you usually measure out the lead model, move it, and then move each other model in the unit in approximately the same (but not measured) distance to maintain coherency, or do you measure out each individual model in a unit to ensure not a single one possibly goes further than its value? Or is this something agreed upon by the players pre-match?

> If each model is measured, I could see some units (ie, conscript squads) being extremely time-consuming or difficult to deal with depending on terrain and model count.

Officially, each model. However almost everyone I've ever played with does it the "time saving way" when dealing with large groups of models. This usually isn't a problem when you are clearly moving them less than max movement range. This is especially the case with horde units that have greater than 10 models to a unit. 20x Poxwalkers for instance. Once you get used to playing, it isn't too time consuming for a single 5 model Marine squad.

> On the second question, is there a generally agreed upon "kit" or set of paint brushes to get before starting to paint models? In addition to the First Strike box I got last night, I also got the small Painting Essentials box which includes a brush (along with cutter, glue, and some small pots), but wasn't sure what other brushes I might need/want before starting to paint.

The "goto" kit for brushes tends to be a Winsor and Newton Series 7 Round Size #2 and #0. Keep them clean with Master's Brush soap and they'll last you a long time. You can find them on Amazon. At $10-$15 a brush they aren't cheap when starting out. And that's arguably more then you need for a first model. You can get by with a cheap bag of small "gold taklon" brushes from walmart or similar at first.

Here's something I wrote recently on brushes for someone else looking for some nicer brushes....

As for Army Painter brushes specifically. It's what I started with before moving to Kolinsky Hair brushes. Still use a number of their small dry brushes for small detail dry brushing. If you are set on Army Painter... The Wargamer series, specifically the Regiment, Character, and Detail brushes are pretty solid. As well as the Wargamer Small Drybrush. Certainly better than Walmart synthetics. Have held up well cleaning with Masters Brush Soap linked below. They just have never had the same type of fine tip you get on a Kolinsky. The super small Army Painter brushes aren't really worth it though in the long run.


I have a large collection of brushes with my better half. Bought her a large collection from different brands from around the world so she could try different styles to find the perfect brush for her.

Essentially, you'll want a Natural Kolinsky fiber brush in round shape for miniature base coating, shading, layering, edging and detail work. They will last you quite a while if you take care of them. Most people find they can do everything with a #2 and #0. A workhorse and a detail brush. Good natural Kolinsky hair helps thinned paint flow properly out of the brush, and holds an excellent point. There are a number of options to get a good Kolinsky brush:

As for brands, you have options:

  • Winsor and Newton Series 7. Well known for quality and value among miniature painters. This is the gauge by which other high end brushes are judged. - #2, #0
  • da Vinci. A little more but you can get a nice Travel Series for similar money to their traditional handled brushes. Helps protect the tip while in storage or traveling to the store to paint. They run a little smaller/thinner than W&N Series 7. - #2, #1. This is always the first brush my better half reaches for, if she's not feeling it that day though she'll pull just about any other Kolinsky brush from her collection.
  • On the cheaper side is ZEM. Had very good luck with them. Good companion for the W&N7 as I use ZEMs when painting metallics as they can be a bit rougher on brushes. They do have some ware to them after dozens of models compared to the more expensive W&N or da Vinci. But don't need to be thrown in the trash like the cheap synthetics. Brush soap does wonders. Set of size #10/0, #0, #2, & #4. Or Individually. These tend to be the first brush I reach for... since I gave the other brushes as a gift. I try to stay to my cheap brushes... If I'm not feeling it that day then I will grab a W&N7.
  • Other Brands of Kolinsky fiber brushes I own but don't have as much experience with... Raphael, Escoda, Connoisseur.
  • There's also Citadel's own Artificer line... They are also Kolinsky fiber brushes so need to be cleaned regularly. I have not tried them but many suggest they are similar quality as the W&N Series 7. Just a little more expensive.
  • When friends come over to learn how to paint up thier board game or DnD minis... I hand them a pouch an assortment of Army Painter Wargamer Brushes or Winsor and Newton synthetic Cotman so they don't need to learn on walmart brushes, but don't risk our Kolinskys.

    Then you'll want to keep it all clean with "The Masters" Brush Soap and Conditioner. Cleaning regularly will make a big difference brush life. ... Keeping brushes freshly rinsed in a basin can help prevent the bad buildup of dried paint to begin with. This kind of thing... or really any sturdy cup you have around that won't tip over easily.

    NOTE - You'll want to use cheaper brushes for Drybrushing, it can just murder brushes. Either walmart/craft store brushes you can toss, or just cheaper quality brushes made for it, like Army Painter or Citadels drybrush lines.

    As for paint... I use Army Painter and Citadel. Citadel primarily for anything warhammer to get color matches. Army painter for some washes, and anything else I paint (boardgame and DnD minis). Rither now I are only using Vallejo for Airbrush paints and a few premium metallics.


    There's a great guide that got me and my other half started over on the /r/minipainting subreddit.

u/artomizer · 7 pointsr/SketchDaily

Assuming your microns are the fine liner type and not the brush pens, you should get on the brush pen train!

This one is really nice and popular.

This one is nice too and would be more like what you're used to with the microns, but with a softer tip so you can vary the line weight easily.

I could be wrong, but i'm pretty sure both of these are waterproof. Playing with water soluble ink and a water brush is a lot of fun too and doesn't require much to try out. Something like this (but try to find just one for cheap.. you don't need a bunch) plus random non-waterproof pens you probably have around the house and you're good to go.

u/Slukaj · 7 pointsr/modelmakers

> Is it likely that inhaling the VOCs in the paint caused any damage?

Yes. There is a really damn good reason why every bottle of paint says to only use in well ventilated areas, and that's because both because inhaling VOC's, and inhaling literally anything other than air is pretty bad for your lungs.

Stop working in poorly ventilated spaces. If you can't find a better space, get a spray booth for about $100. If you absolutely, positively cannot work in a better space or get a spray booth, get a respirator with VOC cartridges. Should only cost like $20. The respirator is a last ditch effort to keep your brain and lungs intact, and is far from the ideal solution.

But it's better than inhaling VOC's all day.

u/ineeddis · 6 pointsr/PenmanshipPorn

Looks like this. It's a brush with a tube of water for a handle.

u/Tollas · 6 pointsr/minipainting

Acrylic through an airbrush has very little smell, but that doesn't mean you should spray without a mask or good ventilation.
Several people have recommended this (or similar):

u/Vanderbleek · 6 pointsr/TrollXChromosomes

I just use a cheap one from amazon, but it hasn't failed me yet:

The ones with tanks are nice because they don't have to run constantly. That one is pretty quiet as well. On the more expensive side, people seem to like Iwata and Badger, but I don't have experience with them.

u/TheAvengingKnee · 6 pointsr/Warhammer40k

For a compressor get one with a tank, it assures a good even flow of air.

The one I have is:

The compressor I linked is pretty quiet as well.

For airbrushes I have:

The airbrush has worked great for me and looks very nice, it provides a good flow of paint and is very easy to clean.
For paint I use Vallejo model air, is needs to be thinned down a decent amount. I have also tried Citadel air paint and while it needs a small amount of thinning it worked well. There are lots of other good airbrushes as well, I have been very impressed with Badger's airbrushes, they are a little expensive around $100 but they are very good quality. Make sure you get paint reducer and airbrush cleaner as well, the reducer helps thin down the paint to prevent clogs in the airbrush.

u/TheGoodAndTheBad · 6 pointsr/Sneakers

Here's the Amazon link courtesy of u/Head_Honchoo from an earlier thread where this was discussed

u/ryzellon · 6 pointsr/mildlyinteresting
u/CraigThames · 6 pointsr/funkopop

I highly recommend oil based paint pens over permanent markers. Thy take a little longer to dry but look 100x better and won't fade (sharpie can fade over a long time). They are easy to find at local craft stores (I got mine at Michaels if you have that close). These are the ones I've used.

Sharpie Oil-Based Paint Markers, Medium Point, Assorted Colors, 5-Count

Picture for reference. The bottom row of horror pops are all paint pen. Most of the others are Sharpie (before I knew about paint pens)

u/FLOCKA · 5 pointsr/modelmakers

I've got the version with the tank. IIRC it cost only $20 more. I like it a lot! I have it paired with an Iwata HP-CS and it does its job marvelously. It's not particularly loud either. You could probably run it in another room without waking somebody up.

If I were you, I'd just save up the extra little bit of money and get the tank version so that the motor isn't constantly running and you can avoid risk of "pulsing" air.

edit: I didn't realize an airbrush comes with it as well. I can't comment on the quality of that, as I only bought a compressor. If you do get, make sure you leave it on the floor! This thing subtly vibrates while it's going and I didn't realize it was slowly creeping off the side of my bench. Scared the shit out of me when it crashed to the floor!

u/AetherGauntlet · 5 pointsr/minipainting

I third this. With a small reservation, I would suggest getting a kit with a small tank like this as it will allow you to play with the airbrush for longer periods of time without having the engine overheat.

u/Sublime-Silence · 5 pointsr/Warhammer

That's a loaded question. I'm going to assume you want the cheapest price for a mid grade set up. I wouldn't recommend going cheaper than this set up personally. tl;dr roughly $170-$200 for a mid grade setup. Can you go cheaper? Yes, would I recommend it? No.

Air brush compressor with tank $100 (ideally you want one with a tank, the master one is actually pretty great but fairly loud, if you want a quieter one you will need to spend more $)

Air brush itself, start off with a quality midgrade brush. DON'T CHEAP OUT AND GET A LOW GRADE MASTER BRUSH TRUST ME. I started with a badger 105 which runs around $55-$70 and really like the thing, but will have to upgrade down the road if I want to do more than just base coating. It's spray pattern is very wide so for finer details it's really hard (for me) to use.

Airbrush flow improver. $10-$15 per 200ml. You will mix this 25(flow improver)/25(distilled water)/50(paint) for thinning purposes. Obviously some paints will need to be thinned more and others less. Generally you want the consistency of milk for your end product. Proper paint thinning and what psi to shoot it at will be one of the biggest things to learn when starting off airbrushing, but it's something you will learn fast through trail and error. I highly recommend getting some models you don't care about to get through this process. I was lucky enough to have my store manager let me practice painting some terrain for the store to get over my learning curve.

Airbrush cleaner + roll of paper towels. Once you are done with the paint and need to clean out the airbrush fill the cup with water, shoot out the water (into the airbrush pot) clean out the bowl with a paper towel, put cleaner in and shoot that out, then keep shooting water through till soap bubbles stop forming and water is clear.

Airbrush pot/holder this is really a great investment for $13 holds the airbrush and it gives you a place to spray your left overs/clean out your brush

u/disgustipated · 5 pointsr/airbrush

More important than two cylinders, see if you can find one with a holding tank, like this. It will give you much more consistent airflow, and the compressor won't run nearly as much.

u/a1dsinabucket · 5 pointsr/chickswearingchucks

You can actually get this white sharpie and draw it on the sole of your shoe to make it white and then use nail polish remover to get it off anywhere you dont want it

u/why_rob_y · 5 pointsr/homegym

Like this? I guess I didn't even know that was an option. I can make my weights look 10x cooler now, thanks.

u/hghpandaman · 5 pointsr/Warhammer

I have a masters compressor and use it with an iwata eclipse. This is the model I use. having a tank is nice since the compressor will stop running when the tank is full. Also, try to get a dual action airbrush. That lets you trigger the air by pushing the trigger down, and the flow of paint is controlled by pulling the trigger back. Gives you a massive amount of control in how much paint is hitting your model

u/Yogymbro · 5 pointsr/minipainting

My wife bought me these for Christmas, and they've been great.

u/pythor · 5 pointsr/TerrainBuilding

You make me wonder... Has anyone put Black 2.0 on terrain yet?

u/schwack · 5 pointsr/ModelCars

Welcome to the subreddit! I think I can answer a couple of your questions about paint. Some people swear by doing it outside when the weather is nice, especially in the cooler months, where humidity and dust aren't as prevalent. I personally paint indoors. I picked up a paint booth from Amazon for under 80 bucks and it works great! I just vent the fumes outside through a partially opened window with the vent the booth comes with.

Paint booth from Amazon

As for preparing the body. I've always been told to wash and dry the parts involved first with soap and water, then allow to dry completely. You can accelerate this with a dust free cloth or hair dryer, pick your poison. Then sand the body with a 600 grit grade of sandpaper, rinse again, and wet sand (body and paper are wet with 1000-1200 grit) Once that's done, you're ready for priming. Model builders who are way better at this than me typically recommend 1-2 coats of primer, the color depends on the body color. So for bright colors, use a white primer. For darker colors, use a grey primer. After you've primed a couple times, its time to take the body and sand it again, with 1200 grit. Get it all smooth, then shoot the color. First three coats are mist coats, sprayed 10-12 inches from the model, very light coats. After that comes 2 or 3 wet coats, sprayed closer to the model, careful not to overpaint or you'll get dripping or pooling in some spots.

There are lots of forums for modelers, including this one. The mods here put together a painting FAQ you can see on the right side of this page. I like your truck! Looks great! I hope some of these answers help.

u/Greystorms · 5 pointsr/minipainting

This spray booth folds up into a stupidly small rectangular box that's really easy to store. Even with an open window in front of you, I'd probably still recommend getting a booth just to keep overspray from going all over your desk/work area/room.

u/nicely11b · 4 pointsr/modelmakers

Airbrushing is above and beyond nicer than brush painting. You just can't do things with a brush that you can with an airbrush. Don't break the bank with an airbrush now. Get something simple and get your feet wet with it. I've been recommending the Neo for Iwata a lot lately. It's half the price of most mid-range airbrushes but definitely gives you a much better airbrush than something like a Master. Master's are very frustrating to work with.

u/Redleg137 · 4 pointsr/airbrush

Okay, that's a broad question you are asking.

First you need a brush. Get a double action. I recommend either the badger patriot 105, or the iwata neo for your first brush.

You need a compressor. I used a cheap one off amazon pretty well until I upgraded to a larger California air tools silent compressor.

You want a moisture trap as well, plus an air hose.

As far as paints go I really like the Vallejo model air and game air paints. The game air paints have very vibrant colors, whereas the model air line is more like real camo colors from WW2

u/pianokid401 · 4 pointsr/Gunpla

Here's a link to the one I got on Amazon:

Master Airbrush Brand Portable Hobby Airbrush Spray Booth (without Optional LED Lighting) for Painting All Art, Cake, Craft, Hobby, Nails, T-shirts &

It's seems pretty good. I haven't been able to test mine with paint but I did plug it in real quick when I got it and it seems like it's pretty strong. Hopefully this week I'll be able to start.

u/kxlle · 4 pointsr/Sneakers

post of what it looks like after

I would assume it looks fine long term because the oil would soak into the boost and keep it white until it got dirty again (vs. painting over it that would chip off), use a white oil sharpier - I think this is the right one.

/u/Ouranox /u/brokeandfamous would be great if you guys gave advice because I haven't personally done this yet.

Btw, you can use a hot air dryer to uncrease your NMD blocks as well, if you haven't seen that post yet :)

u/Pukit · 4 pointsr/modelmakers

The reviews are a bit special, I doubt it'll last you long, even if it manages to spray once for you. I've never come across such a compressor, in honesty, save your money, buy once and buy right.

If you're that tight on funds then one of these will get you going, but the compressor leaves a lot to be desired. If you can stretch further, a kit like this has a decent compressor, the airbrush is still a cheap chinese kit. If you want to spend money more wisely then a compressor like this and an airbrush like this will serve many years for a beginner before upgrading the airbrush to something with higher detail. The compressor will serve any model airbrush very well. You can get that compressor or similar in a kit too.

u/CivilC · 4 pointsr/Gunpla

The reason why /u/triviper said it's about $200+ to start airbrushing is because you need not just the airbrush, but the compressor, moisture trap, hose, and adaptors if you're buying everything separately and want a setup that will last you a long time.

My setup isn't the best, but I got

u/windupmonkeys · 4 pointsr/modelmakers

I used that airbrush for three years. Be mindful that that airbrush is going to be less precise and less well machined than a more expensive brush. It also needs to be cleaned more frequently than other brushes, or it will jam. I cleaned it often enough that I just removed the back handle entirely because it served no useful purpose (not even as a counterweight). That brush is serviceable. It won't run circles around your expensive airbrushes of the world, but it works. If you don't clean it, though, that thing is going to drive you crazy.

In case this is helpful:

I still use that compressor when I build models. My airbrush now though is this:

The brush a lot of people consider a nicer starter brush (i.e. in a way, the next level up) is this one:

u/550g · 3 pointsr/Watercolor

watercolors LINK

we starting to use it in art schools and continue to use them in art academy. they really are good. no need to dig deeper in more expensive, pro watercolors.

fancy watercolors (i personally love them, but really, basically fo fun, mixed media) LINK

watercolor pad LINK

that's my choice. would highly recommend this producer, really great absorption, thick paper, different formats available. anyway, it's really good.

brushes is really very personal choice, depends on technic and such. I like this one LINK great for miniature work. You can look for some squirrel hair brushes in local store orLINK , they are good for starters and for wet painting.

EDIT. fanart sample where all those stuff used at once :P

u/furrythrowawayaccoun · 3 pointsr/modelmakers

IWATA NEO CN airbrush and AS-186 compressor.

For a total of 140$ as the time of writing this (on 5.8.2019.) it is the best cheap airbrush and compressor combo.

Why? You get the whole package - Airbrush, a compressor with a tank, air filter and a hose which is all you need to start airbrushing

Iwata Neo is considered the best cheap(est) branded airbrush on the market by many so I used it here, also the AS-186 compressor (Check later in the page about it more) is p good. You also get a hose which far too many people forget to buy when choosing a compressor.

mostly everything


Note for other users - I am currently rewriting the airbrush page a bit (this will be on the top of the page), so if you have any wishes to add to it please comment.

u/diachi_revived · 3 pointsr/blackmagicfuckery

$19 for a bottle on Amazon. It's dark, but it's no Vantablack.

u/parkerlewiscantloose · 3 pointsr/Gunpla

Molotow ONE4ALL Acrylic Paint Pump Marker, 1mm, Liquid Chrome, 1 Each (703.101)

u/diecastphotography · 3 pointsr/HotWheels

If you're in the states, get yourself a Molotow Liquid Chrome marker.

Molotow Amazon Link For Reference.

u/roborabbit_mama · 3 pointsr/airbrush

I was looking at the one linked from home depot, but I was also looking at this other one from Amazon, the Master airbrush model TC-40T but a lot of the reviews say it doesn't last very long before breaking.

I really need something portable and small for storage (apartment living), that ideally has a tank to cool down.

u/HenryV1598 · 3 pointsr/telescopes

What kind of scope?

For a Newtonian, you can get those kinds of concrete forming tubes from places like Lowes and the Home Despot. They're just heavy cardboard, and last pretty well, but I'd definitely recommend painting it with something that will provide protection. Painting it flat black inside and/or flocking it is a good idea too. (I found a paint online, Black 2.0, which claims to be the flattest black paint available to the general public, except if your name happens to be Anish Kapoor). I bought some and it is pretty damn black. I ended up not using it to paint the inside of my scope, but I might use it on my 80mm refractor. Not cheap, but really, really black. Not Vanta Black level black, but as closes as you can buy.

u/7x13 · 3 pointsr/Gunpla

I picked up one off ebay for $45 with the brand FUWA on it. Only issue was it didn't have 1/8th fittings that an airbrush needs so i went and got fittings to make it work.

Ive Heard good things about Master Airbrush Compressors(airbrushes not so much)

I believe the one I would get would be the TC-40-T

u/millerhkl · 3 pointsr/Gunpla

I recently bought a setup about a month ago so if you are in the US, I'd recommend the following:

  • 1/5 hp Portable Airbrush Compressor with Tank $89.99
  • 10'ft braided airbrush hose, 1/8" bsp aka Iwata $5.99
  • Point Zero Dual Action Gravity Feed Airbrush with 0.2, 0.3, 0.5mm nozzle-needle sets and 1/8" bsp quick disconnect $23.99
  • 20% discount for buying over $100 from this Amazon vendor
  • Safety is very important! Portable Spray Booth $79.99 w/ Prime, not eligible for above discounts
  • Comes out to about $175.96 before tax.

    I have the compressor, the hose, and the booth and they've worked great for me so far. Honestly, you save on shipping vs. the Master Brand and mine came preassembled with the regulator installed. The Master Brand ones are notorious for having regulators that you screw in and they end up tilted to the side. In fact I think people in this sub have pointed this flaw out (there's a better link with pictures, I just can't find it). Items were shipped promptly and got here in one piece. You also get the discounts if you buy a certain amount from them.

    I actually have an Iwata NEO that I got from Amazon for about $40ish. I'm still on the fence as to whether or not I like airbrushing or not. Honestly, I wish I had gotten the PointZero brush just as a cheap intro dual-action brush.

    I think someone on this subreddit once pointed out that an airbrush is like a regular brush, just powered by air. They weren't kidding. It takes time to master. If you have the money to spend on a fancy >$100 airbrush like the Krome, then less of your time will be spent trying to master the idiosyncrasies of your brush. But it doesn't change the fact that it takes practice to be able to lay down really smooth, thin coats consistently.

    I don't know how busy you are as a student, but it can be time consuming to set everything up, test your spray conditions, mix your paints, actually paint, and then clean everything up. If you find you like the process, then you can invest in a better brush in the future and keep your old one for laying down primer or base coating.

    But there's nothing wrong with OOB snap builds if you find that's your thing.

    edit: for link formatting mistakes, and also to say that I'm not very experienced yet, so take my advice with a grain of salt.

    edit 2: My other regret is not considering compressed CO2. I live near a welding supply shop and a restaurant supply shop that both sell compressed CO2 cylinders. A 10 lb tank with high pressure regulator would have been around $120 and then some for converters or extra regulators. People on the fine scale forums claim that a 10 lb tank could last months for airbrushing and it's only $17 to refill at either shop. Would have been perfect too for carbonating beverages for homebrew purposes. Just another option to consider. Definitely do not buy the Badger compressed air cans. They don't last long enough.
u/HeyItsJay · 3 pointsr/Gunpla

I'm not a veteran by any means in terms of Airbrushing (I've airbrushed 2 kits... a MG Strike Freedom & a MG Nu)

For both of them I went with a very cheap set-up...

For the Airbrush I used a Iwata Neo Gravity which I bought at Hobby Lobby for about $45 w/ their 40% off Coupon :P and it was a great starter airbrush, to me it was straight to the point and definitely something I'd recommend.

As far as my compressor goes, I went with Master Compressor. Reason being is it had a Hose, Water Trap & the Compressor. It works great and I still use it and I like it.

I didn't have a Spray Booth and went with spraying in a damn tub I bought at Walmart for $3 lol and didn't even have a mask...

I highly recommend getting one as it definitely helps out.

I recently bought one and I now use the MSA Safety Works Mask. I started painting my 3rd Airbrushed Kit (about 3 pieces primered lol) and this mask is a god send. I was killing myself before and don't suggest you do the same.

With a Airbrush & the Compressor Set that I linked you should be good to go all you really need is paint which I bought all of mine at the time from Hobby Town USA since they carry Tamiya Paints which are very user friendly and I thinned it 1:1 with 91% Isoprophyl Alcohol from Walmart.

I was in the very same position as you lol, I built about 9 kits before starting a Airbrushed model.

I recently purchased another Airbrush, I got the Master G23 and I've only used Primer on it but it's pretty good, the action isn't as great as my Neo but it's nice enough since I'm no pro and I feel it matches my skill level.

If you have any other questions I can help you as much as I can.


u/rtwpsom2 · 3 pointsr/modelmakers

That airbrush compressor is just this $66 one. most of that stuff can be found cheaper if you look closely. Even the badger and paache ones are the same compressor, just reskinned or with a fancy enclosure.

u/FlyingShepherd · 3 pointsr/modelmakers

If you want something that is quiet, look for a diaphram style compressor instead of a piston. The air compressors at your hardware store will all be piston style ones that can be around 80-100db. A mid-level diaphram compressor can be found for less than most compressors at your hardware store. Most airbrush compressors are very similar, with the internals likely coming from the same factory in china. Some have an attached tank which helps keep a steady air pressure, though ones without will still work fine.

For example:

u/Probably_Not_Evil · 3 pointsr/minipainting

This Army Painter starter set is your best bet. It has Black, White, 3 primary colors, green, a flesh tone, a good brown, steel metallic(you can add colors to it of you want the metal to look a different color), and Strong tone wash(actually my favorite wash, period). Even comes with an okay detail brush.

If you want purple and orange. You can pick up any brand you want and it'll work just fine with these paints. Citadel is usually the easiest to find if you have gaming shop nearby. Or if you have a hobby lobby, they sell Vallejo model paints. They're good. Other brands that come to mind. Reaper, P3, Secret Weapon, and Scale 75. All good.

So all you'd need to get is a primer of your choice. And a decent brush, here's a decent brush set. And probably want to get a good matte varnish. Most people recommend Testors dull coat. But if you want brush on. Vallejo matte varnish is a good alternative. All in all you could easily be under $50.

Miniac's video on how to take care of your brushes

u/Extech · 3 pointsr/ActionFigures

Use acrylic paint and make sure you thin it, adding regular water will work. This is probably the most important step in producing a decent looking paint job.

Better painters than I say shoot for the consistency of milk, I usually don't go that thin, but close. You might have to do a few more coats to get proper paint coverage with thinned paint, but the figure will come out looking much better and smoother than painting straight out of the bottle.

Learn to dry-brush and apply washes. These are two of the easiest painting techniques to learn and apply, and they can take a custom paint job to another level.

Here's an old comment of mine That goes into more detail about dry-brushing a applying washes.

If you need brushes I'll recommend this set. I used them for 90% of all my customs and I'm a big fan. I've also bought a few of these sets cause they're dirt cheap and use some of them for dry-brushing and applying washes. Since dry-brushing kinda tears up brushes you don't want to use a nicer brush.

/r/minipainting has a lot of great tutorials on their sidebar. I pretty much learned everything I know from watching minifigure painting tutorials on Youtube, so maybe check some of them out. I started painting/customizing with Warhammer 40k and D&D minis and most of the techniques apply to action figures.

As JSK said Figurerealm is great, I used that a lot when I first started customizing, and it's great for looking at other people's customs to get inspiration.

I can't really think of anything else, but just ask if you have any more questions.

u/creativelycara · 3 pointsr/bujo

Staedtler watercolor brush marker for the green color -

Pentel Waterbrush -

I used the staedtler brush marker to color on a block. I then used the water brush to pick-up the green color and paint on the paper. That's for the watercolor items. Let me know what other materials you're interested in if I missed something you needed. The leaves, days and hydrate stuff are stamps and I used the staedtler brush marker to color on the stamp for the green items. Not sure if I have links for those, but I could find some if needed.

u/Thespeckledkat · 3 pointsr/Watercolor

Daniel Smith Essentials set $23 , Arches Hot Press Watercolor Pad $11, Pentel Waterbruahes 3 pack - $13 , and a bottle of [India Ink $3] ( If I had a little extra, I'd spring for the da Vinci round 6 sable travel brush - favorite all around brush for smaller paintings :)

What about you? What would you have purchased? Or are you looking to buy?

u/tuna1997 · 3 pointsr/Gunpla

If you're talking about this model

I just got the updated version, it does the job well for airbrushing at around 15-25 psi, I haven't tried it with anything else though. The LED lights it comes with are bright and the fans are strong. I've read reviews that some people have problems with it after a couple of months and others say it works very well after a year plus of regular use.

But they're easy to fold and relatively light so very easy to transport from one location to another

u/cacheflow · 3 pointsr/modelmakers

I was looking at getting something like this

Does anyone have any experience with that?

u/Scotter65 · 3 pointsr/modelmakers

Master Airbrush Brand Portable Hobby Airbrush Spray Booth for Painting All Art, Cake, Craft, Hobby, Nails, T-Shirts & More.

This is a similar one my wife got me for Christmas last year.

No smells that are noticable so far.

u/Monumental_TCG · 3 pointsr/minipainting

I'm not OP, but it looks like an airbrush station which is purchasable on Amazon. Something like . Hope this helps!

u/BigBraddWolfe · 3 pointsr/minipainting

The box behind it is a Master spray booth (folded up into briefcase form). There’s also a patio door and a HEPA filter out of frame.

u/NSX_guy · 3 pointsr/modelmakers

Since returning to the hobby, I haven't had many weeks when I didn't pick something up.

holy tools Batman!

Starting from the top right we have:

RB Productions handle bender (I don't build armor!)
RB Productions parallel bending jig
RB Productions angled bending jig
Iwata Eclipse HP-CS dual action airbrush
RB Productions R10 photoetch bending tool
Iwata airbrush cleaning station
RB Productions Scribe-R file (3 scribers)
RB Productions Nano saws set
Sticky pencil (not pictured)
Spray booth (not pictured)

it's been a fun few months.

u/Splurch · 3 pointsr/minipainting

I would highly recommend you get a basic airbrush station. Masters makes a very simple airbrush station that while not perfect does help considerably, (there's are a few versions, one without tubing and another without light.) Alternatively you could put it near a window and have a fan blowing it out. Either way you really don't want to breath that aerosolized paint/primer/varnish and it lingers for quite a while, even after you've stopped smelling it.

As for flock storage I use some plastic Really Useful Boxes that I've glued some foam sheet to the top inside of the lid of to stop it from spilling out when closed.

u/crazyaky · 3 pointsr/airbrush

That is the one, without the lighting. I wound up getting [this one] ( because it was roughly the same total cost as the one you linked to since I have prime for free shipping and it came with the lights. If I had to do it over, I would probably get the one you linked to and get some of the LED's pointed out by /u/Bastidgeson.

Here is a video I found of someone actually using the booth. Skip to around 3:20. My only other comment is to make sure that there is enough room for the unit plus the hose coming out of the back wherever you are putting it. I have mine set up on a counter top (standard 24" deep) and, even angling the hoses at 90's to snake it to the window, the booth still sticks out over the edge of the counter by around 8 inches. I measured from the wall to the front edge and it's about 32 1/2" in total, from the front edge to the back curve of the hose. I wound up getting 3 pieces of scrap wood to put under it as support, just in case.

I decided to try to take a photo to show you what the built-in lighting looks like. I manually set up the photo so it looks very close to what I was seeing. I put that orange paint in there to really show the blue lighting effect on color. The 'white' stuff has been base coated with Vallejo Ivory. The AT-ST's in the back are the gray Krylon primer, prepped for painting. As a contrast photo, here are some y-wings with the same Vallejo Ivory (and one with just white Krylon primer), but under natural LED lighting. Also, you can see two of my tricks for prepping to airbrush large groups of things. For flat-ish objects, I can use double-sided tape on those jumbo craft sticks. For everything else, I use the blue poster tack stuff. I also keep empty medicine bottles in case there is just one thing that I am painting. Really, that turntable hasn't helped me much.

u/glon · 3 pointsr/lasercutting

I use my airbrush for applying anything that I can, be that paint/stain/finish etc. Aside from saving money on paint you get much better results with a bit of practice. Smoother transitions etc etc. This is especially true with laser cut projects as I will often mask whatever it is that I am making, which allows me to spray the engraved/cut parts with an airbrush, and then remove the masking for perfect is an example Basically an airbrush is GREAT in combination with a laser cutter, that said, there is a cost. I'll provide you some links to my setup.



fume hood

masking material

Also there will be a smattering of paints/cleaners/paint thinners and airbrush cleaning supplies you'll need. So you are probably looking at $300-500 investment to get a good set up. Now clearly you can spend less on the airbrush, and if you plan on working outside, you can skip the fume hood etc etc, but just know that you won't be saving money on this right off the bat. All that said I heartily recommend getting one

u/Roflchard · 3 pointsr/Gunpla
u/notsymmetrical · 3 pointsr/modelmakers

Basically, when a compressor has an air tank it gives you a steadier supply of air, less pulsations, while also extending the life of the compressor itself.

The AS186 that /u/whatsmyloginagain brought up is similar to this:

Compressors that have more than one piston also provide more airflow and less pulsations. You're basically buying a very basic compressor for a premium price if you choose the grex bundle. I'm sure the grex has better quality control, but the majority of people who have purchased tankless compressors (including myself) have come to regret it.

On the airbrush front, I second what whatsmyloginagain brought up. Buying an Infinity is basically buying a top tier brush for this hobby and gunpla. I'd recommend looking at Mr Hobby/GSI Creos airbrushes before you decide to purchase an Iwata, as theres a 99% chance they're made by the same company. Check out if you want to browse through the Mr Hobby line. Alternatively, you could order straight from a Japanese hobby shop and save a couple of dollars, but lose out on any sort of customer support.

u/brundylop · 3 pointsr/splatoon

I believe the aero spray is modeled after the famous Iwata Airbrush in real life:

u/xGamblex · 3 pointsr/ModelCars

Hi there, well, for 300$ here is what you can get:
First of, the compressor, it's quiet, it's reliable, I've had one for 2 years, still kicking and it's a good deal, 1/5 hp MASTER AIRBRUSH TANK COMPRESSOR , that is the best for the money. Now, if you want an Iwata airbrush, start off with a Neo, this is gonna be your workhorse airbrush, the one you apply basecoats and major workloads with, when you do fnd it, don't pay more than 60$ for it, Iwata Neo, and finally, for detailing jobs like highights or if you wanna get more detailed on your work, you will need a finer needle airbrush, .03 to be exact, following the Iwata series, here is the Iwata Anest, Eclipse with a .03 needle, if you buy all 3 of these, you will have less than 300$ which you cna also spend on quick release adapters for both airbrushes: Quick release x 3, the compressor does come with a hose. Hope this helps, also, might wanna think about using Vallejo and Tamiya, since they are acrylic, they are a lot more forgiving than enamels, but that is my personal opinion.

u/Vonschlippe · 3 pointsr/Gunpla

Don't bother with the tankless models!

I own this guy:

It's quiet as a cat's purr. Less expensive, has a tank (thus no pulsing of air pressure), and because it has a tank it's not on all the time. It's very small and fits inside a gunpla box! Don't bother with tankless models unless space is a big issue!

PS: Plus, it's on -55% off sale right now...

u/Gotama6t6 · 3 pointsr/Gunpla

Master Compressor

I have this one and it has been good so far. I prefer tank as the motor is not continuously running. This is also beneficial as the motor doesn't heat up as quickly which is better for painting and increases the longevity.

u/007A99 · 3 pointsr/modelmakers

You can get a decent, but pretty basic kit for $80 (

I have no experience with that airbrush, so I cannot speak of its quality. My recommendation is to buy the Iwata Neo from Hobby Lobby or Michaels. 50% off coupons are pretty easy to come by, so you could get it for $50-$60.

If you do that, you will need a compressor. The TC-20T ( is a good compressor that is pretty quiet and has a tank.

Personally, I have a Badge 105 Patriot and I just use a noisy Campbell-Hausfield compressor. I just got these for Christmas and am still experimenting with it before I paint a model.

I wish the best of luck to you!

u/RoketLawnChair · 3 pointsr/Warhammer40k

That's what I have. A compressor with a tank makes all the difference and a decent but cheap airbrush to mess with. Plus that stand/cleaning station thing is a life saver. It's so handy.

u/mraletz · 3 pointsr/yeezys
u/PoserMobile45 · 3 pointsr/Sneakers

I'm going to get alot of shit for this! When I got the shoes the midsoles were BURNT yellow, hadn't been cleaned in years. After I hit them with the Jason Markk, I purchased this sharpie and colored over the midsole, made it crispy white. It's an oil based white and made them look BRAND NEW! Hope that helps.

u/Barrelrolll · 3 pointsr/FiestaST

I used one of these. It took about 15 minutes per wheel to put on two coats. Because the tires were brand new, I did not have to clean them off or anything. I have already taken it through a car wash and the lettering stayed on fine.

u/HoathZX · 3 pointsr/Gunpla

In terms of starter compressors, this is the one usually recommended.
This has both a pressure gauge and moisture trap along with a tank. Only issue is you may need to buy a different size hose and/or adaptor as airbrushes vary in connector size and not sure if it would fit the one you have. The reason for a tank is that it allows for a more constant air pressure as air is coming from the tank reserve and not directly from the compressor which can give some variance on your pressure as you spray which can affect your paint job. It also takes load off the compressor as they will generally sleep once the tank is full and pressure is met therefore extending the life of the compressor as it won't be constantly on as you spray.

u/AenarIT · 3 pointsr/Warhammer40k
  1. An airbrush is DEFINITELY worth it. Both money- and time-wise. Plus the vehicles (and other large flat surfaces) will be covered in a very nice way, something you cannot do with a brush.

  2. Try to get a cheap (20-40$) airbrush, since it is hard to properly clean and you need to practice with it before fully appreciating a 200$ one. Look for a double action airbrush.

  3. Try to get a good compressor, since it will last and will serve you in the future. Look for a compressor with an air tank, 3L is enough. I bought mine for 100$ and it works wvery well (it should be this one).

  4. As an airbrush station you can use a cardboard box, plus some cardboard or newspaper to protect your table/desktop.

  5. You will need some cleaning supplies, like an Airbrush Cleaner (I suggest the Vallejo one, but you can find something cheaper), a needle-like tip to clean small holes, ...

  6. Finally, you will need some paints. You can use the standard GW ones, but you need to thin them down with a proper Thinner (I suggest Vallejo's one, again). You can also look into the Citadel Air range. My suggestion is to get some Vallejo Game Air or Vallejo Model Air paints for the color you need most (primer, basecoat, ..), then use your Citadel paints thinned down for the less used colors. Vallejo paints come in dropper bottles, MUCH MUCH BETTER than the standard Citadel pots for airbrushing.
u/projectself · 3 pointsr/DIY
u/MrGrieves123 · 3 pointsr/Gunpla

Sure, nothing special really, this is my brush.

Here's my compressor

I've only been painting for about 6 months now but if there's one thing I have learned it's to be patient and not rush, also make sure your paint is the right consistency.

u/animerb · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

Im a big fan of Iwata airbrushes. the Eclipse HP-CS is a good mid range AB. More expensive than what you paid for your chinese one I'm sure. But its not super expensive, and you'll notice the quality difference right away.

I didn't mean that you're going to sand most of the gloss coat off. I just mean that you sand it enough that you don't see glossiness anywhere on the piece. The gloss coat will usually have a little bit of an uneven surface after its sprayed on. some times this uneven surface will be very pronounced, which is called orange peel, because it looks like the skin of an orange. Even if you did a really good job spraying, there will be some slight unevenness. Make a couple quick passes of sand paper and you'll see the high spots will no longer be glossy and the low spots will remain glossy. But if you keep sanding, all those high spots will be leveled off and you'll create a flat smooth surface. At that point, all the glossiness will be gone. It sounds counter-intuitive, I know. But Now that the surface is flat and smooth the polishing compound will bring the gloss back.

found this vid real quick, illustrating wet sanding and orange peel on a larger scale (a car). it wont be this pronounced on a model but it will be there. They don't show how to buff, but you do see them wet sanding. It's the same basic concept, just on small pieces.

I should also mention that if you are only wanting to do a gloss coat for proposes of applying decals and panel washes, and are just going to spray a flat clear over that, don't bother with all this. just spray it and leave it. it'll be glossy enough to do that stuff. But if you want you end finish to be super glossy, wet sanding and polishing is the way to go.

u/[deleted] · 2 pointsr/Warhammer

this is the air compressor, and Iwata makes my airbrush. Now that I'm looking at the parts, it looks like I spent about $250 on the setup. I'm a little worried about my air compressor; it's oil-less (which is good for precision airbrushing) but it stays on for what seems like too long, and gets extremely hot, so I have to manually turn it off every 10 minutes -- it may be defective.

u/griff_the_unholy · 2 pointsr/minipainting

I picked up something very similar to this a little while ago:

and one of these.

I set up my desk with cardboard sheets and news paper, and ware a respirator. with the window open. this setup works fine. it's just a bit of a pain to set up and pack up. I love using it and the results I get.

the iwata is pretty damn awesome, but the cheap brush that came with the compressor can do 95% of the job, so the iwata is kinda overkill when ur a beginner

u/gigisima · 2 pointsr/adeptustitanicus

But if you want to invest, I'll save up and buy from the big brands such as Iwata, check their 'eclipse' range. About £120 for mid-range. Then buy a compressor for about £60 to £80.

Check out reviews on YouTube

Iwata eclipse
Iwata-Medea Eclipse HP CS Dual Action Airbrush Gun / Gravity Feed

ABEST Complete Professional Airbrush Compressor Kit with Air Tank for Nails Tattoo Nail Art With Dual Action AirBrush Spray Gun for craftwork, cosmetics, tanning, hobbies, models, airbrushing, painting, cake decorating, customised clothing

u/Kyp_15 · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

Buying an airbrush is kind of like buying a guitar. If you buy a super cheap one it's difficult to get any good results out of it and it can put you off for life. So invest a little bit would be my advice.

I can personally recommend the following.

Airbrush: iwata hp-cs -

Compressor: -

The Compressor comes with a cheap airbrush so if you want to try with a cheap one go ahead, but you will want to upgrade sooner or later and that Iwata HP-CS will last a life time if you look after it.

This is also a must -


u/mrgascoyne · 2 pointsr/Warhammer40k

I recently got back into the scene and invested in an airbrush... I love it. It makes priming and base coating much quicker and I have now started using it to apply the layers.

I live in the Uk and went for this compressor

I would think that you could probably get a cheaper one but it was on offer when I got it and only cost about £55

For the brush I went with

Ordered it from and it came from Japan, total cost about £80 a lot cheaper than I could find it in Uk

You will also need to buy a hose

u/Ratharyn · 2 pointsr/minipainting

Go for it mate! I went with this one:

Seems to be a fairly solid all rounder, really struggled to find a bad word said about it.

u/jayadan · 2 pointsr/InfinityTheGame

Vallejo Model Air and Game air are both good lines for airbrushing your models. If you're new to airbrushing then buying airbrush paints are probably the best way to get started, but you can also just thin down your regular paints too. I don't recommend starting by doing this as it's better to learn to control the airbrush with paint that you know should be working properly before you throw in the new variable of paint thinning.

As for airbrushes, I always recommend the Iwata Eclipse. It's both a good starter brush as well as a brush that you will continue to use as you become a more skilled airbrush artist.

u/dumba360 · 2 pointsr/Warhammer

Honestly would recommend the Iwata Eclipse HP-CS. Yeah it's a more expensive airbrush but it's a fantastic piece of equipment.

Pretty much would recommend these to start you off:

EDIT: I know the topic says cheap but with airbrushes, you pay for what you get.

u/Hvstle · 2 pointsr/Airbrushing

I think it's cool you want to pick up a hobby your father had. It will be a nice reminder every time you pick up the gun.

I use this 100% for miniatures, and it works great!!


Alright, here is the list I bought. It's a bit more than you want to spend, but this will ensure you can get going right away, and not be frustrated. I did a fair amount of research on different forums, sites, and youtube videos. If you want to know why I chose something, feel free to ask. I was going to bold the ones that you absolutely need, but I would say everything in the first set are a must.


u/Flakpanda · 2 pointsr/Warhammer40k

I did a lot of research/reading reviews/watching videos when i was getting my airbrush. I think I waited almost 3 months before making a purchase. The two that everyone always suggested to start with is an Iwata Eclipse or a Badger Patriot 105. I decided on the Badger. Then it sat on a shelf for a year because i was trying to decide on a compressor. Never really wanted to invest the money for a nice silent one. Instead, I bought a 10 gallon tank and some fittings and plummed it up. I fill it up with our compressor in the garage. It lasts me about 2 hours til I have to fill it back up.

If you are not worried about the noise, you can just buy a cheap pancake compressor from a local hardware store. I do suggest getting one with a few gallon tank though so that it doesn't kick on as much since they are loud as fuck. You will need a filter whatever route you go since non-airbrush ones usually don't have one.

List of the things you will need to buy:

  • Airbrush
  • Airbrush Hose (suggest 10ft)
  • Air supply (compressor or tank)

    I also suggest you invest in:

  • An airbrush stand (Didn't realize I needed it until I got it)
  • Airbrush thinner/flow improver (Vallejo's is what I buy)
  • Odorless paint thinner
  • Small cup/shot glass/container to soak parts in overnight after use

    I am by no means an expert on this subject. I am a hobbyist and enthusiast at best. I always suggest you do your own research. Let me know if there is anything else I can answer for you.
u/VicGenesis · 2 pointsr/airbrush

First things first, how big is the armor? Is this something you'll be wearing? If so, a smaller one like this will make your life hard. They get hot really fast and they'll shut off on you. The thing about them is that they run constantly. Push the trigger, it fires up to keep up with the air demand. It can be done, but it'll take awhile. I painted a helmet with one of these and it was very frustrating.

I do suggest investing in something else. Something like this California Air Tools compressor will do you a lot more justice. The storage tank really helps. Your compressor won't turn on as much, thus leading to a much longer lifespan. I have the 6310A version and it has been going strong for about 2 years now. I have been using it for my airbrushes and my smaller spray guns. It easily powers my LPH80 mini gun when I'm painting motorcycle parts. You can usually spray for about 10-15 minutes before the motor kicks in. This is when I spray at lower psi. If you're spraying at a higher psi it'll turn on faster, but it's still not as loud as many conventional compressors. You won't need ear plugs. When it does it isn't very loud. I can turn mine on at 2am when my family is asleep and they can't hear it upstairs. Invest your money wisely as a hobbyist.

I do suggest investing in a mini gun eventually. You'll get faster coverage and more even coverage. If you have any questions feel free to message me. I had to teach myself because no one was willing to help me. I don't mind helping people out whether they have questions about materials or equipment.

u/martbasi · 2 pointsr/modelmakers

It's irritating that the price is higher for essentially the same thing but this guy is equivalent IMO ... that said - I'm only linking to it because you asked, I am a novice like yourself but have been looking long and hard at these units and chimed in to hopefully save you some of the time I've wasted ;)
I am not actually endorsing it or telling you to buy it, caveat emptor, read the reviews etc.

u/carlouws · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

As others have said, I strongly recommend this compresor. This is the one I used until I upgraded to an Iwata one. A tank is good because it's not only your first line of defense against any moisture build-up but it also prolongs the life of your compressor.

The reason I recommend the Iwata HP-C Plus is because it is pretty much the best all around airbrush. The size .3mm is perfect for gunpla. To priming, base coats and even pre-shading if you would like to do so. Iwata has a great community on airbrush forums and there's ton of documentation and parts for mods and customizing your airbrush to your own personal needs. This brush will last you a lifetime. I own a Iwata HP-C Plus and an Iwata CM-CP2 and I use the HP-C Plus for almost everything.

Keep in mind that you will also need to spend money on all kind of tools to aid you in the painting process such as skewers, alligator clips, something to put the pieces while you paint and while they dry, paint thinner and so on.

u/Sgt_Meowmers · 2 pointsr/SciFiModels

If you really wanna get it good looking I'd recommend getting an airbrush to paint it. Cans are fine but you'll never get the right colors going that way. It's possible to just use a regular brush but it'll also come out extremely thick and unsatisfactory compared to an airbrush. Its a small investment (about $150 for a nice airbrush and another $100 for a small compressor if you don't already have one. Get one with a tank if you can) but if you do even a couple of models with it you'll never want to use a regular brush to paint an entire model again.

First off the model as it comes is way too blue, I'd recommend painting it based off the newer bandai model's box art as it looks fantastic which you can see here: TIE Advanced.

For the paint itself my personal favorite is the Tamiya line of acrylics. They are the best looking and most professional out of all the acrylics I've seen. They come in nice bottles that are great too. This is of course the best for airbrushing as thats what I would do but if you do end up going the brush route a better paint would probably be Vallejo as they are more suited towards that.

I'd honestly forgo the primer and simply do a full flat black base coat to get that blue off of the solar pannels then mask those up and do the main body. According to the supplied sheet for the bandai model the main body is 70% neutral grey and 30% white with a pinch of blue grey. For the darker parts around the ship its a 100% neutral grey. You'd use that in areas like the recesses on the wing roots, the window's frame and a few other places.

After that its really up to you how much extra detail you wanna add. You can do some dark washes to get those nice shadows, maybe add some metallic scratches and what not. Theres no limit with these sort of things.

Also as a last note if you wanna get into some more of these model's I would highly HIGHLY recommend the entire line of 1/72 ships by bandai. They are all snap together and have more detail then you would believe for their price as well as coming slightly colored so you can fit it all together and still admire it even before painting. I have the TIE Fighter and plan on getting the TIE Interceptor and TIE Advanced. They are the perfect size for putting on display (or playing with haha) and even scale correctly with other real world planes in 1/72 scale.

u/metalt · 2 pointsr/Warhammer40k

Stuff that you need:

  • Compressor - What I use There are lots of different compressors out there but you want to at least get one that is designed for airbrushing IE: oil-less and preferably one with a tank. Airbrush compressors are designed to be quiet as opposed to like a shop compressor that is loud as fuck.

  • Airbrush - What I use This is an Iawata eclipse which is more on the expensive side but honestly since the airbrush is what is doing all of the work I opted for quality here. This is not to say that you cannot find good quality airbrushes for less but this particular name and model is fairly well known for being one of the best. You might want to shop around on this one to find one within your budget. The main thing is that you want gravity feed with the cup on the top of the airbrush, and dual action meaning that you press the trigger down for air only and pull back for paint. Single action airbrushes (paint and air together when you depress the trigger) are garbage.

  • Airbrush Flow Improver - link This is what makes airbrushing thick acrylics especially GW paints possible. It allows you to thin down the paints while maintaining good coverage but won't speed up drying time like thinner or pure water will.

  • Misc other stuff - You will also want latex gloves for the hand that you hold models with. Find at auto parts stores or in the first aid section of a drug store in boxes of 100. Masks, either the paper disposable ones or get a painters respirator mask at the hardware store. Simple Green for cleaning your airbrush. I run a full paint cup of it through followed by a full paint cup of water in between colors and when I finish for the day. Gun/Pistol oil for oiling up the moving parts of the airbrush. Find at any place that sells firearms (walmart, academy, outdoor goods stores). I use it to oil up the trigger, as well as all of the threading. I also dip the needle itself in the oil which lightly lubricates the spray nozzle and helps to prevent clogs.

  • Final tip - everything that I learned about airbrushing I have learned from this dude on youtube: Next Level Painting I suggest watching his videos as well as videos from other youtubers to avoid a lot of trial and error. Lastly ... don't be intimidated... it takes practice but once you feel comfortable with using the airbrush it really ups your painting game.
u/Effion · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

I've been using a second hand Paasche airbrush since August, and it's been working really nicely for me. I really like how easy it is to disassemble and clean. I just ordered a new Paasche H to replace the one I've got because I like the design so much, and I'd like to finally have all the parts so I can try some of the fancier techniques I see folks pulling off (like shading and fine details).

I started out hand painting (and still do it when I just want to add some minor details), and having the airbrush is really convenient. I can spray all my parts in an hour or two (depending on how many parts and how many colors) and then work on other things for the rest of the evening, instead of having to devote an entire evening (or more) just to prep and painting.

If you don't have one, you'll want a compressor too. I love this one, it's nice and quiet when it runs. I've got it under my desk sitting on top of a towel and you can barely hear it. It does need an adapter for the Paasche hose tho since of course the Master fitting is different.

If a bit of noise isn't an issue, there's also this Paasche setup with everything all in one pack . Down side is no tank, but the compressor isn't very loud.

u/Rokanos · 2 pointsr/Warhammer40k

There is a masters one with a tank for around $90 on amazon. That's what I use and the thing is an absolute champ (have used it for several hours straight before without issue).

EDIT: Link -

u/thelastbaldwin · 2 pointsr/airbrush

Here is the hobby compressor that I bought and am happy with. I recommend compressor with a tank because the airflow is much more constant.

I bought a cheap Iwata Neo and used a generic airbrush that came with my first compressor before I picked up a Badger Patriot 105. From my experience cheap airbrushes are simply more prone to clogging. If the airbrush can spray water without trouble, it'll probably just be a matter of finding the right ratio in order to get paint to flow. I do recommend just throwing down for a better airbrush, specifically the 105. As far as paints for testing, I recommend just getting a small bottle of Model Air paint. They're specifically thinned for airbrushing and have finer pigment so you should be able to test with them without having to mess with thinning.

u/Oarlock · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

It all depends. Expect to drop somewhere between 150-300 dollars on all the equipment for airbrushing. Think hard about whether or not you want to drop that cash on that instead of a bunch of new kits.

If you do want to get into airbrushing, these are usually recommended as starting things.

The NEO Iwata

This is the airbrush I use. I like it, but have never used a different one.

Air Compressor

If you want your compressor to be quiet, you will want a tank. They hold air in a tank so it wont constantly be running and makin noise.

u/swdpwnzdggr · 2 pointsr/minipainting

I got this the other week, I currently live in a ~400 square foot apartment and it isn't much louder than my windows AC, takes about 30-60 seconds to fill up, and from then on is perfectly silent until it starts running low and it will turn back on, fill up in a few secs, shut off again.

u/JupiterKush · 2 pointsr/modelmakers

I bought this a couple weeks ago and it has been working really nicely so far. It also comes with a hose.

u/ClearAirTurbulence3D · 2 pointsr/modelmakers

The equivalent compressor in the US is this one:

Read through all the comments - the screws and seals on the compressor piston have to re checked and tightened for best results, but it works well and it's very quiet. Harbor Freight probably has an equivalent.

u/AngryEchoSix · 2 pointsr/modelmakers

Doesn't have a tank, which is a deal breaker for me. A compressor with a tank provides a constant airflow, eliminating the air pulsing which can distort your paint job.

This one is exactly like mine and I have zero issues with it.

u/tehchosenjuan · 2 pointsr/modelmakers

For a beginner, I'd recommend the eclipse instead of the sotar since it's easier to clean, I also recommend this compressor instead

u/dbd6604 · 2 pointsr/Warhammer40k

I was in the same boat as you. This is all the stuff I bought:,,,, .

I also bought an assortment of paints I thought I'd need. I went with the Vallejo Game Air line. If you look around, you'll see the stuff I bought recommended by many people for novice airbrushers.

Also, when I bought all that stuff, I signed up for the Amazon Prime credit card as well, so I ended up getting like $120 off that order. It worked out pretty well.

u/_solonights · 2 pointsr/Sneakers

Sanford 35558 Sharpie Oil-Based Paint Marker, Medium Point, White, 1-Count

This one is the way to go.

u/trippingjimmi · 2 pointsr/bikesgonewild

Ya man. I absolutely love white tire lettering. Did it on my last bike as well. Looks great in person. Extremely time consuming and strenuous though, to do well. Easier with the tires off the bike of course.

What you need is this Sharpie OIL BASED paint marker. Last basically all season and then some. Very durable

u/Xerokine · 2 pointsr/Charger

Sharpie oil-based paint:


I got 4 of them, but two covered the tires pretty well with about 3 coats each.

u/texastoasterboy · 2 pointsr/Sneakers

Here is the link to the pen I used. It's oil based so it won't come off with water.

u/squaddie228 · 2 pointsr/3DS

Ok thanks I'll look into that.

Something like this


u/southtea · 2 pointsr/Sneakers

i've got some all white NMD's and i've tried so hard to clean them. Washing machine, hand washing, jason markk, etc. Nothing works. they are still yellowing. never getting all white shoes again

What I did find is using an oil based white sharpie on the boost is MAGIC. ( the boost looks brand new after a coat of it

u/IgwanaRob · 2 pointsr/minipainting

Search ebay for "TC-20T" - currently there's a Zeny listed that comes with the hose, regulator, water trap, and the tank (that's the one I got). You can catch them on sale for as low as $30 every now and then, but even at $60 it's a steal. It's one of the same models re-badged by several other companies like Masters/Sparmax/PointZero/etc for a lot more (ie:

u/XenophonTheAthenian · 2 pointsr/modelmakers

I can't remember if this is the compressor I have or not, but there's a ton of clones just like it at varying price ranges. Whichever clone I've got has served me pretty well

u/Tweakers · 2 pointsr/modelmakers

You're going to find that you can either get some decent gear upfront for a realistic price, or you can go cheap and have to replace poorly performing gear almost immediately, which is the expensive way to go. These items below come in within your listed budget and will give you good service for years.

Get a compressor with a tank. Those cheap air compressors may save you thirty dollars upfront, but you're really going to regret having that on-demand-only air pressure bobbing up and down and screwing up your air flow. This Master TC-20T is a good buy. Get the TC-40T for twenty dollars more if you're going to want to do other types of spray paint art in the future. This one has more endurance before heating up. I own one of these and they are quality gear at a good price.

Get a decent starter air brush. This Iwata Neo Dual Action is good for a starter and yet isn't too expensive so if you screw it up you won't break the bank. At the same time, the machining of the parts is much, much better than those cheap Master sets which really aren't good at all. Granted, you may get lucky and get a good-yet-cheap Master air brush, but more likely than not, you'll spend most of your time trying to get the thing to give you a spray without splatter.

Get a quick release coupling set for the airbrush. Having to use a wrench to attach the air brush gets old really, really fast -- like immediately -- and the ten or so bucks makes it a great deal. Iwata-Medea Quick Disconnect Set

u/BT9154 · 2 pointsr/resinkits

If you don't want to invest a huge sum up front then as /u/TheRealMacLeod said you can pick up a normal $100 compressor & airbrush kit on amazon. I myself have been using a $100ish compressor with an air tank and $20 Chinese import gravity fed dual action air brush for my whole air brush career and if you look through my post history a cheap airbrush is not a deal breaker. One thing I learned is you have to take care of the airbrush so an end of session cleaning routine is a must for any airbrush to give good results.

This is what I use



u/Dr_Von_Spaceman · 2 pointsr/modelmakers

The airbrush will be complete, and the compressor will be complete, and with any luck the airbrush will include an air hose. Those are pretty much the only things you need to get going. My airbrush (a Paasche) did not include the hose, but I didn't get a "complete package" deal either.

You can use any compressed air source - pancake compressor or industrial strength Ingersoll-Rand diesel-powered air compressor. However, I suggest getting a dedicated airbrushing compressor. I've got a cheap Harbor Freight pancake compressor for inflating tires and it is loud as sin. My TC-20T clone, on the other hand, I can use in the house without annoying people even at night. This compressor is well worth the modest amount of money. A tankless version is also available, but the tanked version was recommended to me and I've enjoyed it.

For what it's worth, I live in a 2-bedroom duplex. My hobby space is against the shared wall with the other unit. The neighbors have said they have never heard it. If I close the hobby room door, you can't hear the compressor in the hallway.

u/Currix · 2 pointsr/OOAKDOLLS

First of all, whatever you choose, make sure it's double action and gravity fed.

A couple of months ago I bought my first airbrush kit.

After A LOT of research, I decided to go for an Iwata Neo CN airbrush. It's great quality and reliable, as all Iwata products are, but still more economic, which makes it great for beginners. It comes with two interchangeable cups in two sizes, which I find very practical.
With proper cleaning and maintenance, it should last a long, long time. So far, mine has been a delight to use.
It's around 55 USD on Amazon.

In my case, I preferred buying from a known, quality brand. I'm not saying the more inexpensive chinese airbrushes can't get the job done, but I'm very meticulous with my works and I'd rather minimize the chance of an unexpected failure.

Paasche is another well-known airbrush brand. I found this kit which might also fit your criteria.

One strong suggestion: do not go cheap on the compressor. It's the motor that will power whichever airbrush/es you decide to get, so it's important that it's good. I'm not telling you to buy the most expensive ones, of course, but to avoid the cheaper, smaller ones.

I recommend a compressor with a tank. The tank helps store air at the desired pressure, avoiding pulsations in the air flow. This also allows the piston to only start when the pressure drops below a certain point, saving energy and piston life, while avoiding overheating and constant noise. Additionally, the tank helps condense the humidity of the air in it (it sinks to the bottom and can be emptied), thus decreasing the risk of water droplets suddenly coming out of the airbrush (getting an additional water/humidity trap also helps).

Here is an example of one such compressor (it looks bigger than it is haha).
There might be cheaper ones; just make sure to check the reviews thoroughly to check for possible common issues, and to make sure the company provides customer support.

No matter what you buy, maintenance is key. Learn how to clean your airbrush. Make sure you're using the correct cleaning product (for instance, it's not recommended to clean certain varnishes with alcohol, as they get sticky and it makes it harder to remove from the airbrush). Clean it as soon as possible; some materials dry way faster than others, so look into that. If you're not going to use the airbrush for a long time, applying some airbrush lube on the needle is a good idea.
Cleaning it is fast and easy once you get used to it.

Sorry for the long comment, and I hope it helped in any way! :)

There's lots of articles and videos online, too; just Google things like "Good airbrush for beginners" and "How to choose an airbrush".

*Edited because typos, and a formatting fail 🤦🏻‍♀️

u/GenghisSwann · 2 pointsr/modelmakers

Yeah, I do live in the US, here is the compressor

u/Jackdoesderp · 2 pointsr/Warhammer

Miniac is pretty good with these sorts of things, and I used his videos to figure out my first Airbrush.

[Video talking about various good quality airbrushes.] (

Video on how to start with an Airbrush.

Honestly, that compressor is good, but the Master's airbrushes aren't great. A really good airbrush for starters is the Badger Patriot 105. It's got very few moving parts, lots of tutorials on how to use and clean it, and does the job for a decent price.

Badger Patriot 105

Master's Compressor with good reviews

For both, it's about 200$.

I'd also look into the Master's Painting Hood (Link).

I'm willing to answer any questions on what shit to buy, so feel free to ask.

u/Gerwalkun · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

I use a similar model to this one from the buying guide. This is definitely a bigger option, but I feel like it won't clutter up even a small room. It's about the size of 2 shoeboxes stacked on top of each other and smaller than a PC tower.

u/Licentious_Cad · 2 pointsr/Warhammer

Of course; you can generally break compressors into 2 broad categories, tank and tank-less. Because you're probably going to be working on precise projects for long periods you'll ideally want a compressor with a tank. Tank-less compressors can have fluctuations in air pressure that can mess with your painting. This is a good compressor, it's the one I own. You can also get it bundled with an Iwata HP-CS. It does run a bit hot, so be careful handling it after working for a long period, or take regular breaks (something you should probably do either way)

If that's a bit too expensive, wait for a local hobby story to have one of those "1/2 off one item" coupons, or shop around. You just want a tanked compressor and a braided hose. Just make sure that the hose is compatible withe the compressor and the brush. The connector for the HP-CS is 1/8". Tanks will vary, the one linked above has a 1/4" connector. So you'd either need a symmetrical hose, and an adapter, or an asymmetrical hose.

u/YammerEnt · 2 pointsr/minipainting

Get an airbrush. Nothing fancy is really needed, just something that works. I used a cheaper airbrush for a long time before I felt I needed an upgrade. I started with this brush: and this compressor: I still use that compressor, and now use this brush:

edit: I would also point out that this was my first model that I had even attempted this sort of shading on. It turned out well, but I got a lot of my inspiration and technique from this guy:

u/gugudan · 2 pointsr/army
u/artist508 · 2 pointsr/airsoft
u/CenturionElite · 2 pointsr/funkopop
u/bostonterrierlove · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

I have a $10 limit for my secret Santa at work and I found a set of wine glasses (4 of them) at a local thrift store for $1.50. I was stoked! I saw this thing on Pinterest about using paint pens on wine glasses so I went to Michaels with a 50% off coupon (they have one almost every week if you sign up for their emails) and bought these markers for about $6. I haven't tried it yet, and you have to bake the glass, but I imagine you can do it with any kind of glassware and would probably only need one set of markers to cover everyone? Thrift stores are also a great place to find vases for this type of project :)

u/Jekka28 · 2 pointsr/ukulele

Thank you! I painted it with a white oil-based sharpie - Link (But I got a single one from wal-mart for something like $2.50

This was all done free hand, I didn't plan anything out or sketch beforehand/etc. You can tell when you look fairly close that there are some drips and unintended splotches that I just worked into the design. I knew that if I planned it out beforehand I'd over-think everything and I would never actually paint it!

u/wwbubba0069 · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Something like this for a budget beginner.

I prefer the Iwata Neo. Its dual action gravity feed

Then you need a compressor with an air regulator.

u/GoudaMustache · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

Eventually when I cave and get an airbrush I'll be getting the NEO CN Gravity Feed Dual Action Airbrush $58 and the Master Airbrush High Performance Airbrush Air Compressor $66.

u/NvBlaze · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

Depends on your budget, I'd recommend getting quality tools from the get go, if you can afford them.

Decent starting setup would be TC-20T compressor (or equivalent, there's a bunch of similar compressors coming from the same chinese factory) and either Neo for Iwata, Badger Patriot 105 or H&S Ultra. All of them offer good performance and will last you quite a while. Personally, I'd go for Ultra simply for the ease of maintenance.

If you're on a really tight budget, you can look for some cheap chinese kit. Not the highest quality, but it'll do well enough as a learning tool.

u/trashcanreddit · 2 pointsr/airbrush

thats a great starter airbrush and should be perfect as a workhorse.

you just need a basic airbrush compressor to start with. the cost goes up the more quiet the compressor is while building up pressure.

i use this kit

the hose it comes with should work with the neo.

u/lessthan555 · 2 pointsr/minipainting

maybe rethink your black. It's not Vanta black , but the fun disclosures and agreements made me believe it's something close. I'd take pictures but even my most non potato cameras can't capture it without a light box but here's an article

u/Urzawrym · 2 pointsr/airbrush

For your budget I'll go with a Badger Patriot 105 Arrow, it's so easy to use and clean and the Arrow will give you a fine line if needed. A cheap compressor with a tank and a quick connect and you're good to go !

Badger Patriot Arrow :

Quick connect Badger for all hose :

Cheap Compressor :

With airbrush cleaner and thinner, and a cleaner pot, I think I fit your budget.... You can use the standard Badger Patriot 105 but the needle is .75mm instead of .5mm so you get less fines lines

u/nowlan19 · 2 pointsr/minipainting

1000x this.

Nothing will piss you off more than being in the middle of laying down a coat of perfectly thinned paint and having to completely stop because your can is empty.

Plus you can't really regulate airflow accurately with a can, and as you use it the pressure will fall.

I just got this for christmas:

Its so much better than the $30 tankless Harbor Freight airbrush compressor I was using.

u/Octokat · 2 pointsr/ageofsigmar

The problem with that kind of compressors are that they don't give out a stable amount of air. That means it may start spitting paint instead of giving a nice constant flow of air/paint.
You're going to get all sorts of opinions. Ones will say they work well, some others (like me), would recommend something with an air tank.

Something like that will do the work, it will last you very long if treated correctly and in the long run will save you some money. If you buy the cheap one, even if you only use it for priming and base coating, you will want to get a better one very soon.

In the end, the choice is yours, of course :)

u/zombcakes · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

Without knowing the condition of the brushes/compressor, you can get a new compressor and brush for about the same price. Honestly starting out it would probably be more confusing to have all those brushes at your disposal instead of becoming proficient with one.


Compressor with tank - $70

Badger 105 brush - - $78

Cleaning kit - $14

Total new (minus tax) - $162

u/Models_n_stuff · 2 pointsr/modelmakers

You can get a tankless one .

It runs near constantly and can heat up. They are not ideal, but can do the trick for small jobs. I tend to work on my models for an entire day once a week, so I have one with a 3L tank.

If you got the super cheapie one there for $60 you could get the Badger 105 and you would probably have a little bit left over.

There is also this one. It is cheaper, so I really can’t speak to it’s quality.

u/PersonPersona · 2 pointsr/Warhammer

Oh sorry for not being clear. I meant the brushes you linked to in your post. These guys: brushes

u/redmaxwell · 2 pointsr/minipainting

My wife got me [these] ( for my birthday and I really like them. But I also use other brushes I've picked up, just general craft painting ones.

Edit: craft painting ones for painting larger areas and models.

u/Ojrobot · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

There really are no pros of tankless compressor compared to one with a tank. A tankless one will run hotter and louder because it has to constantly run in order to maintain air pressure. The airflow is also more irregular which makes detail work with a airbrush much more annoying.

The first link is a airbrush ready compressor with a tank that should do what you need it to. The second is compressor that would need some fittings, hose, and moisture trap in order to work with airbrushing. The second one has the advantage of being a bigger tank and more horsepower so it would have to turn on for shorter amounts of time to fill the tank and you can go longer with the bigger tank before the compressor has to kick in again.

u/calder87 · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

That unit will work, but a bunch of manufacturers make near-identical compressors and some are cheaper, like this one.


Some reviews note poor quality on the fitting between the air tank and the water trap/regulator assembly, but that hasn't been my experience. Maybe quality control has improved since those reviews, or maybe I just got lucky. Your mileage may very.

u/zodd06 · 2 pointsr/MarvelLegends

model masters flat black.
also if you wanted to try a chrome look these are pretty good:

u/---Deafz---- · 2 pointsr/modelmakers

I bought this ONE
about 4 months ago and have built about 6 kits with it and it has performed great.

u/kwkfor · 2 pointsr/modelmakers

I got mine through Amazon.
If Amazon isn't an option for you, try going to to see if they can get you a link to a local supplier. I'm in Oregon and even ordering it through Amazon, it ended up coming from the U.K., so it took several weeks to get here.

u/nbapat43 · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

I use this one; there are a couple cheaper options below in the similar items section. My only recommendation is get one with a storage tank.

u/Raptor205090 · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

Sure, here it is on amazon:

Moloto Liquid Chrome

Looks like they have different size tips, I was able to get the 1mm one at hobby shops near me

u/FalseGodsAbound · 2 pointsr/XWingTMG

[Neighborhood of $28] ( Considering that's over 6oz, it's pretty reasonable compared to, say, GW paints.

u/frewtlupes · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

Do you have any in mind? I haven't used it myself but I'm planning on getting my partner an Iwata Neo CN for christmas as her first starter airbrush- .35mm nozzle, two different gravity cup sizes, dual action and a price point of ~60USD make it seem like a phenomenal choice for a first go!

u/Flyingswami · 2 pointsr/Warhammer40k

Airbrush Booth - You really shouldn't breath in the fumes. If you are painting indoors, you should use something like this to capture and filter the overspray/fumes. This is in addition to wearing a mask. You will see people in youtube tutorials not wearing masks and not using a booth - it's really bad practice if you care about your brain cells. I like the one below, but the fan is louder than the compressor.

80$ on Amazon®-Portable-Airbrush-Painting/dp/B00BMUH8L6?ie=UTF8&ref_=pe_385040_128020140_TE_3p_dp_1

$20- Paint mask/respirator - See notes above. I use one designed for spray painting.

Airbrush - I recommend starting cheap until you get a hang of it. It's easy to damage parts. It's been a while since I've researched, so I apologize for having forgotten the terms. You want an airbrush that is fed from a cup on top (gravity fed?), a trigger to control the air separately from the paint (maybe called dual action?), and needles .2 to .5mm. This airbrush came with a quick connect (to snap on and off of the compressor hose), which is a big convenience. They are cheap if you need to buy separately.

$10Airbrush cleaner fluid and brushes - to flush the airbrush and clean it after use.

$10- Airbrush cleaning pot - You spray cleaner and excess paint into this.

90$ - Compressor with Tank - The separate tank is key, it will maintain constant pressure very well and provide good steady flow. This one is pretty quiet as compressors go, but still noisy enough that you need to work behind a closed door.

$10 - Airbrush hose-

All in, it cost me $250 before paint.

u/TurboCooler · 2 pointsr/minipainting

I have this one as a second compressor and have had no issues. I have a larger noisy one from Home Depot I use in the garage or outdoors but for indoor use the one I linked sits under my work table.

u/gratefuldread · 2 pointsr/minipainting

I'm pretty new to airbrushing but I recently got this airbrush and I found it suits my needs. I wanted a compressor that had a tank so I had steady airflow, a regulator, and a water trap and this unit has all three for a reasonable price. At first I went to hobby lobby too but I found all their compressors were pretty expensive even after the discount. So, I don't have any recommendations from the list but the point zero compressor is solid for the price.

u/Muezza · 2 pointsr/modelmakers

You don't need anything heavy duty for airbrushing, but get one with a tank for sure.

I use this one: but it seems to no longer be available. It's quiet enough that I can close a door and barely hear it from the other room. Cost around $80, so target a price in that area.

From what I've read the expensive 'name brand' ones don't seem to be worth the extra price and you should just be prepared to replace the compressor every few years.

u/Skurjandan · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

Thanks! I've looked at a few spray booths, specifically this one. Any recommendations?

u/drunkenjack · 2 pointsr/minipainting

I've got this one from Amazon. Several friends also have it. It works like a champ and is economically priced too.

u/HappyWulf · 2 pointsr/KingdomDeath

Here's a big fat messy shopping list I made for someone a while ago. You might find it useful too. Quickshade Ink Set Warpaints Army Painter Pacer Technology (Zap) Pacer Technology (Zap) Zap-A-Gap Adhesives, 1 oz : General Pencil Company The Masters Brush Cleaner & Preserver 2.5 0z. : Brush Soap
Buy Army Painter Wargame Starter Paint Set - PLUS Promo Undead figure
Buy Rust Oleum 280715 American Accents Ultra Cover 2X Spray Paint, White Primer, 12-Ounce
TEKTON 6655 Needle File Set, 10-Piece
Buy Xacto X3311 N0. 1 Precision Knife With 5 No. 11 Blades 1 X Most Wanted Wargamer Brush Set
Xuron 170-II Micro-Shear Flush Cutter: Wire Cutters 2 X Milliput Standard 2-Part Self Hardening Putty, Yellow/Grey

Edit: Of, and I used this guide for making my Thinner. But I'm going to experiment more, because this is not perfect.

u/smasho1 · 2 pointsr/minipainting

I am clueless with cutters, drills, sculpting-- I can make a snake out of green stuff. But for brushes and paints-- aha! I have your back.

Can you order from Amazon? These aren't CHEAP, quite, but they are really really great and can do just about anything! Link:

Also, these aren't nearly as good as Vallejo or Reaper paints, but they are far more affordable and if you use a wet pallete you can dab them with water for the perfect texture. Also, they mix very well (this is just one of the sets, you can compare others of this or Apple Barrel brands)

u/kolkolkokiri · 2 pointsr/ArtFundamentals

Get the 40% or more off coupon code at Michaels, you can use your phone. See if you can get 40% off all, instead of just one item. Otherwise bring a friend and use it on the expensive items.

  • 15$ to 30$ - Paints like Winsor & Newton or Reeves or Prima I would avoid Artist Loft's paint as I have no experiance but other Michaels stuff is hit or miss. I think cakes is easiest to start with.
  • 2$ - Palette or something to mix on. Dollar Store is probably good enough, otherwise like 5$.
  • 20$ Paper - Canson or Strathmore make good tear off sheets. Make sure it says watercolour. A pad of paper is easier to start with then a bound sketchbook. These are usually on a buy two get one free type sale.
  • 15$ - A brush set or Waterbrush if she travels with it (if you get this get it on amazon its overpriced in store) aim for something soft and labelled student or professioinal. Basically not Crayola.
  • EDIT a WATERPROOF Sharpie.

    Depending on sales you can probably get everything for 50$. You might be able to get under 40$ but it'll be damn hard. The drawing pencils and kneaded erasers are cheapest at an art store where they will be sold loose for a few dollars, however with Christmas coming up also keep an eye out for sketching sets as they will use a like 5.99$ one to get all the art students back in stores and tempt them with other things
u/G0ATLY · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Oh goodness, if you like ink you muuuust try Inktense blocks!! There is a 24 set with WHITE! I know it's not "traditional" to have white, but I love em! They go on dry, then add the water OR you can premix with water and use the ink that way. Once it is wet and has dried. You can go over it again with out worry the under layer will smear!! (Long as all the dry portions were wet at some point and dried.) IT IS AWESOME!

The company Derwent also has a set of Inktense pencils that work the same way, and keep your hands somewhat cleaner.

Also you can set Inktense on fabric, so designing on shirts, quilts and what have you is just eaaasy! There are a LOT of ways to use these! Printmaking, watercolors, stamping, inking, washes!~ Add to gesso or Mod Podge for a colored glaze! Lots of things really... It can cater to the professionals, amateurs and beginners!

There is also a set of water pens that you may be interested in, with trying these. I have always used brushes though, with water.. Or I wet the brush, and just dab it on the lil block its self. Or chip off a lil piece of color and add water to it on a little pallet. (Piece of plastic lol.)

Question: Can the name be computerized, long as it is drawn? Aka mouse/tablet?

u/maxjooce · 2 pointsr/bulletjournal

I currently use kuretake watercolors with these brush pens and I think they’re pretty solid. It’s not a huge investment and I think they’re a good starter pack for casual water colorists.

I highly also recommend clipping your pages and having maybe a hair dryer handy so your pages don’t warp from getting too wet.

u/-Skadi · 2 pointsr/Wishlist

Pentel Arts Aquash Water Brush Assorted Tips, Pack of 3

You could put just plain water, diluted watercolor paint, ink etc.. in them.

Edit: just noticed /u/Blanchetastic posted a similar item, hers cost less though.

u/shth0mas · 2 pointsr/notebooks

Like this

Pentel Arts Aquash Water Brush Assorted Tips, Pack of 3 (FRHBFMBP3)

u/aspophilia · 2 pointsr/Watercolor

I’m new as well but I’ve done lots (maybe too much) research. What is your budget? From what I understand Windsor & Newton Cotman paints are a good student/hobby grade paint. They sell them in nifty little 12 pan kits that pretty much provide all the colors you need to make good mixes.

Here is a travel set for about $13:
Winsor & Newton Cotman Water Colour Sketchers Pocket Box

If you are willing to spend a little more on paint for artist grade I hear excellent things about these: St Petersburg White Nights Watercolour : NEW 12 Pan Set

I’ve seen these really cool portable brushes: High-end art travel painting brush Synthetic Sable Round Hair Short Handle Brush for Acrylic Oil and watercolor painting 3Pcs

Or you can use a water brush: Pentel Arts Aquash Water Brush Assorted Tips, Pack of 3 (FRHBFMBP3)

As for Paper, I really want one of these myself: Moleskine Watercolor Album Sketchbook - 5"x8" (Spanish Edition)

I hope this helps! :)

u/NOSETACKLE · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

I airbrushed in a tiny apartment for a year before I moved somewhere larger. I used this booth ( which you can fold up when not in use. Just pop that hose out a window and you're golden.

The thing that actually took up more space than the airbrushing gear itself was my parts on alligator clips while I was building a kit.

u/brannana · 2 pointsr/minipainting

One of these:

Basically an open box with an exhaust fan that draws any overspray through an air filter and exhausts it somewhere else, usually a window. I don't bother with the exhaust on mine, though I do watch where the exhaust hits the wall to see how much, if any, paint gets through.

u/Ehur444444 · 2 pointsr/airbrush

Thank you very much for your reply, I appreciate it.

If I may just confirm, is the spray booth that you have and you feel it does well at grabbing all the particulate/dust?

Thank you again, have a great day.

u/paperpanzers · 2 pointsr/modelmakers

This is advice from someone that doesn't own or plan to own a spray booth (I wear a mask and open windows), but afaik the set up in commercial spray booth should be spark proof so it doesn't set shit on fire or even better (arguable point imo) the explosions at bay.

Every pic I see with a booth is that cheapo foldable one and people shoot lacquer at it with cero problems, fires and death reported so far.

This one

If you're a pussy and explosions and fire terrify you then I assume that you'll need to """"invest"""" more than 100 bucks in a real paint booth from a real company you can sue

u/YoJimGo · 2 pointsr/modelmakers

Master Airbrush Portable Hobby Airbrush Craft Spray Booth (without Optional LED Lighting) for Painting All Art, Cake, Craft, Hobby, Nails, T-shirts &

u/Station28 · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

one of these is what i use

u/Balmong7 · 2 pointsr/minipainting

Here you go

edit: I know you probably wanted a cheap cardboard box solution. But paint fumes in doors aren't something to play around with.

u/Ghoda · 2 pointsr/modelmakers

My compressor recently died and I was looking for a cheaper one as well. The guy at my local hobby shop talked me into a Paasche D500SR which was a bit more than I wanted to spend but I am extremely happy with it. Very quiet and solid flow. You can probably find one on Amazon for about $120

You can also get portable spray booths with exhaust hoses as well, very handy and quick to set up

u/smoothturbo · 2 pointsr/modelmakers

I bought this.


u/SoullessSin · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

I use this with a respirator in my second bedroom.

u/arkanoid2520 · 2 pointsr/Gunpla
u/Merendino · 2 pointsr/minipainting

>1: You say you use Vallejo paints, what is the reason for using that brand, Cost? Quality?

Boils down to really just two things.... the model air/game air paints are pre-thinned for airbrushing which is super handy, especially when starting out, and two, dropper bottles are infinitely better for airbrush work than those stupid-ass paint pots GW makes. I have LOTS of GW paints as they are amazing paints. (expensive, but amazing) Typically i brush paint with GW and airbrush with Vallejo.

>2: For some reason, that airbrush costs nearly 60 pounds :D (i live in the UK, if you hadnt guessed!) if i were to get that specific airbrush, what else would i need to make it work, you mention an Air Compressor (brand? type?) and a Water Trap (whats the purpose of that - as i say, bit of a noob here!), what else, some sort of Hose to connect the compressor to the brush i assume? any cleaning supplies? which specific paints do you use?

WTF?! That airbrush is 60 fuckin pounds in the UK. Shit. At any rate, ANY TANK compressor will work. A tank compressor compresses air into a giant tank that is THEN let out of the tank through the brush, which allows for smooth flow. If it were an air compressor without a tank then it would "putt, putt, putt air out." which is deadly for airbrush work. You want smooth constant air flow.

Airbrush to Compressor Hose

Water trap for air compressors Note: these aren't 100% necessary for a larger tank air compressor as the large tank somewhat does exactly what this little guy does. These are usually only necessary for a compressor that isn't a tank fed. Moisture through condensed air is a real problem and if it gets into your paint, it'll fuck up your smoothness of airbrushing.

My exact compressor, which can be used for LOTS of things, not just airbrushing. Note: the only downside to these types of compressor is how goddamned loud they are. Pretty much HAVE to be used outdoors.

I connect the airbrush to the hose i linked earlier. I connect that hose to the water trap i linked earlier. I connect the water trap to a standard thick cheap air compressor hose. I connect the cheap air compressor hose to the air compressor.

I assure you it's FAR less complicated than it seems. That masters brush i linked you earlier comes with a 'quick release' that is STUPID handy. It connects to the airbrush hose (the blue-ish one linked) really quickly.

I use pretty much exclusively Vallejo Air paints.

Model Air Standard Colors

Model Air Range

Game Air Range

Only difference between game and model air ranges is the color vibrance and ability to be touched repeatedly and not wear off. (should not be a problem at all if you varnish your models though). Game air colors are generally formulated to mimic the GW range as well.

The only difference between Game and Model vs Game Air/Model Air is that the Air versions of them are pre-thinned and ready to shoot through an airbrush straight outta the bottle. You can buy almost any of those colors individually from amazon.

Also, Airbrush Guru is THE best resource I've seen on the subject. TON of helpful tips and tricks. Great in-depth reviews of noob friendly airbrushes and how to clean them. Most of the things I've linked you to buy can be used for things OTHER than airbrushing. The reasons for that are they are cheap. Good airbrushes run for hundreds of dollars. Shitty ones that still work awesome are priced accordingly. Start small, then dive in from there.

Lastly but not in the very least... safety is king. DO NOT AIRBRUSH IN A CLOSED ROOM WITH NO VENTILATION.

Airbrushing acrylics is the safest of the paints to shoot through, but even they can get in your lungs and over time cause problems. If you are going to try to airbrush indoors make sure you setup a proper ventilation system or have in place a spray booth. Something like this would be fine.

P.S. This is incredibly handy as well, like, more handy than anything I've shown you so far. It is obviously NOT necessary, but once you start airbrushing I would guarantee you that it'll be the next thing you buy. Helps when you need to sit the airbrush down but you still have paint in the cup. Enjoy! Again, go to that website, The Airbrush Guru for the best information. It's fantastic, seriously.

u/PowderedToastMaaaann · 2 pointsr/Warhammer40k

I have one of these, mostly for airbrushing but I have used it with spray cans a couple of times.

u/Kisada11 · 2 pointsr/Warhammer40k

If you have a window you can vent out of then [this works well](Master Airbrush Brand Lighted Portable Hobby Airbrush Spray Booth with LED Lighting for Painting All Art, Cake, Craft, Hobby, Nails, T-shirts & More. Includes 6 Foot Exhaust Extension Hose

I have this set up and it vents fine.

u/solavi · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

It's this one on amazon I like it a lot for the price.

u/pleasesteponmesinb · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

Hey team, Does anyone have experience with This paint booth? Was considering going diy but I’ve found this for $150 nzd and would end up costing more to build my own I think.

u/_berliner · 1 pointr/modelmakers

I use this one.

Some are dual action (like the one linked), some are single action, some have wider spray areas -- this is a pretty good airbrush tutorial (part 1 of 3).

u/Beerady · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I did it with brush but my brother and I just split on this affordable one . I used these paints for color. As for the weathering, I dipped a small but wide damaged brush into grey paint (silver works better) and lightly lined the edges that I thought would chip away first. I tried to be careful because it’s easy to over do it.

u/kablaq · 1 pointr/Warhammer

For airbrushes, I'm personally a fan of the Neo by Iwata, especially their gravity feed (cup) model. The brush is well built, fairly easy to take apart and clean, and has very few issues with most paints and other products you may put through it.

I picked mine up on sale for around $50, and if you have a Michael's or Hobby Lobby nearby, you may be able to pick it for less with one of their one-item coupons they release occasionally. It's also nice if you have a hobby store near by as you can drop in a pick up replacement needles or nibs if you accidentally drop it >.>; . Needles and nibs typically cost in the 10-15 dollar range for replacements, so not too terrible.

For compressors, a simple compressor with a tank will work wonderfully, so long as it has a proper pressure regulator and water trap. I have this compressor and it works well, after I got the correct airbrush hose to attach to the NEO.

There are a couple extra tools that can help with airbrushing as well, but most can be picked up at a later point. Something I would recommend that you get with the initial purchase is a spray booth. This allows you a place to spray into and capture many of the errant particles of paint from your airbrush. Combined with a proper respirator mask, it will ensure that you don't breath in any of the particulate from airbrushing, and hopefully don't have airbrush paints drying on items they weren't directly sprayed on. I would say of the two, the mask is the most important to have.

A quick-disconnect is useful for cleaning and swapping airbrushes, but isn't really necessary at first. A cleaning pot is also useful as it gives you a dedicated space to spray out leftover paint and cleaing fluid, and should stay fairly contained.

I would also look at purchasing a ultrasonic cleaner further on, as it is amazingly helpful for cleaning the airbrush when paint has leaked into the body, or spilled into places it shouldn't be.

Other's can probably offer advice as well, but that's what I currently use. Hope this helps!

u/BishopMiles · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Save your money you are like $100 bucks off getting a decent set up.

Edit: Let me elaborate on my reasons a little bit.

You want an air compressor with a tank and an automatic on/off switch.

This will keep your airbrush from getting pulsating air and the on/off switch will extend the life of your compressor (so will the tank as it isn't running all the time). Some added bonuses is being able to work without a lot of noise.

There are some cheap ones you can buy on amazon. ( TheTC-40T and the Master Tank Compressor)

Airbrushes are tricky. but you still can get soem good ones under $100. Like the Badger Krome RK-1, Badger 105 Patriot, Iwata Neo (Not made by Iwata but supported by them), and Iwata Revolution

u/KMTiger74 · 1 pointr/modelmakers

u/didgeboy and u/Monti21 make valid points. I picked up an inexpensive air compressor and cheap airbursh from Amazon. While the compressor is has turned out to be very nice - quiet, easily adjustable - I upgraded to an Iwata Neo and haven't touched the cheap airbrush since. I've picked up a second Neo, and am now looking to buy something for more detailed work. Paint flow through the better airbrushes is much more consistent. I've really enjoyed the learning curve!

u/JaguarDaSaul · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Something like this is okay to start with. If you want a better brush the Iwata Neo CN and the Badger Patriot 105 are highly recommended and are beginner friendly.

u/MetroidHunter26 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

hmm. now does the moisture trap need to be anything special or just a standard run of the mill thing you buy? I really want to make sure I don't mess this up. I do know that you need a clean up kit for the airbrush and this one I got from a sale long ago.

u/TrappistTripel · 1 pointr/modelmakers

Rancor gives some good advice. I've only started modeling for only over a year but I don't know how I would paint a kit without an airbrush. Iwata Neo and this Compressor is what I've been using and it has been working really well.

u/sentientmold · 1 pointr/minipainting

Compressor reliability does seem to be a crapshoot. I have a paasche cheapie ~100 bucks i bought 4 years ago that is still alive and kicking with intermittent use.

My advice would be to try out a cheaper one first. The one I linked comes with an airtank too. I just don't think 2.6x the cost is justified for compressor internals.

u/WhatsMyLoginAgain · 1 pointr/modelmakers

That's a full sized compressor, but same theory :-).

You need an airbrushing one. Have a look at these:

Not sure where you are located, but try art or model supply shops, search for "airbrush compressor". They should go for around $100-200. You only need 1/5 to 1/4 HP as you only need to reach up to 30 psi (most spraying would be 18-25 psi).

u/Yukon_Cornelius_35 · 1 pointr/modelmakers

I bought this compressor along with a Iwata Neo airbrush and a 6' hose. Came out to around 150$ total.

That compressor's like a 3rd the cost of some other compressors with the same features. And while it's only been a month, I haven't had a single issue with it.

u/daveschur · 1 pointr/ModelCars

Someone posted a great set of videos by a guy who is a real "no-nonsense" airbrusher. His thought is that you use lacquer thinner (basic cheap stuff from a hardware store) to clean EVERYTHING. Even acrylics. Going with that approach I don't think it really matters.

I mostly spray acrylics and the Allclad stuff (which is Lacquer), but have used some enamels without any issues. Just thin it with actual proper thinner, and don't waste the good thinner on cleaning the thing.

Not sure about the Paasche, but the Iwata's are similar quality wise I think, and they all have seals that can handle any of the solvents, so the brush itself won't have an issue with any of the paints.

With any "kit" I think you are making tradeoffs. I would spend the money on a good brush, double action (whatever your preference for brand). I have found the .3mm needle size (some are .35) to be the most versatile. Iwata HP-C can be had for $150 or so. I am sure Paasche has a similar one.

For compressor I have been very happy with this one which was pretty inexpensive:

I am sure you can get a better one, and with any of these "knock-offs" there are some risks as quality control may not be as consistent with the brand name ones. Compressor will have a much smaller impact on your quality of life than the airbrush itself. If you eventually got tired of the lower volume tank and too much running, or wanted something fancier or quieter, or if it ends up crapping out after a coulle of years you can trade up. As long as it holds pressure, and has a reasonable regulator and water trap, the compressor itself won't give you any problems until it dies. A cheap airbrush, on the other hande, will be miserable and frustrating every time you use it. Or worse, will be fine up until the point that it spits out a gob of stuff in the middle of an almost perfect paint job (speaking for a friend of course ;-) )

u/oonooneoo · 1 pointr/minipainting

I haven't used one, but a No-Spill Paint Cup may help.

Spraying indoors is usually a bad plan. If you really want to, you can buy a spray booth or build one.

u/Moraken · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I can't say the product is terribly durable but mine is still going two years later, crack a window and point the hose outside

Folds up nicely if you are in a small space, put a sheet of cardboard down under it overspray tends to sneak thru the seams where it folds sometimes

u/justkirk · 1 pointr/Warhammer

Open a window, it should be fine. If you are really concerned you should get a spray booth. Example.

u/SanityIsOptional · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I got this.

u/jyoon673 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Considering going into airbrushing but not sure if I should build a DIY booth or buy a portable one. I just wanted to hear some experiences with either and was wondering how often I would need to replace filters/how difficult is it to replace the filters on a portable booth (including finding new parts + installing said parts)

PS. I was interested in this booth

u/LittleHelperRobot · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Non-mobile: this is the one I bought

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

u/MayhemStark · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I just picked up a spray booth from Amazon surprisingly cheap and does a good job at not letting the strong smell permeate the space. this is the one I bought

u/NeoFarseer · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

This have a tank this dont No tank, its a tank that storage ari so when you are spriying isn't always on. If he doesn't have a tank its always taking air and doing noise and also it hots faster.

u/Vitachan · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I airbrush in my apartment which is in NH. I can show you my setup once I get home (at work now). It's made from a plastic storage box, a bathroom fan, a filter and some dryer flex hose XD During the winter I have the hose going out my sliding glass door with a heavy blackout curtain covering the gap in the door

I use this compressor and so far its worked damned well for what I've used it for

u/RX-79G · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Yo. So Im looking to upgrade my airbrush currently I have a paasche talon but I would like to upgrade to something better. I also want to upgrade my compressor too, I have this one currently Master Airbrush High Performance compressor But regarding that I also wanted to know if I should upgrade it or is it worth it to keep it. As far as a budget not looking to spend over 250$ for both. I'm just a little loss and looking for some help.
Tl;dr looking to upgrade airbrush and seeing if its worth to upgrade compressor. Budget 250

u/JUra88 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I ended up getting a Master Airbrush Compressor as recommended in the subreddit wiki


It's relatively easy to use, and not too loud!

u/MachNeu · 1 pointr/Gunpla

What's your budget?

This is the cheapest one that's frequently recommended here.

Your other option is finding a coupon for a compressor at harbor freight...but it won't be as quiet.

u/popopopoppo · 1 pointr/Gunpla
u/ashramsoji · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I wanna get into airbrushing as handpainting is too exhausting and many of the coolest looking kits i've seen have custom paint jobs. The world of airbrushes and compressors seems overwhelming, though. Can anyone recommend:

  • a brush and compressor
  • A starting set of paints -- I think my preference would be acrylic, as I already have a few Tamiya acrylics and thinner
  • Share some links about use and maintenance?

    I'm planning on getting the Badger 105 patriot and this Master airbrush compressor

    Is Amazon usually the best way to go?
u/XenaWarPrince · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Ya, after doing some more research myself, I found this air tank by Masters for ~$70 on Amazon. Paired with the Neo for Iwata I think I should be able to afford a setup with plenty to spare for paint.

Now I just have to figure out a vent system for Minnesota Winters :/ I guess I have a few months still?!

u/Thorvald1331 · 1 pointr/SWlegion

You're almost certainly going to ruin your first brushes, god knows I did, so don't buy anything too expensive. I'd recommend this set as a good starting point;

Also make sure to grab some brush soap to clean your brushes out;

Here's a vid on how to take care of your brushes and use the soap;

You should absolutely make a wet palette too, here's another vid;

As far as paints go, vallejo and citadel are probably your best option, both are very good brands of paint, some people tend to avoid citadel because they tend to cost a little more and if the jars aren't closed tightly they can dry out easily, so It's best to get what you can get both cheaper and the easier.

u/MurkMuffin · 1 pointr/minipainting


These will get you started for sure! 13 bucks (13.19 to be exact) and you'll continue to use these even after your brush collection grows.

u/HBreckel · 1 pointr/amiibo

I've heard acrylics or paint specifically made for painting miniatures is the way to go. I'm currently working on a Rockstar Pikachu and bought

For the black on him I actually used India Ink due to the fact it's archival and will last forever. I'm still waiting on the paint set to arrive so I can't comment on how good they are.

If you want to give your custom any sort of topcoat I highly recommend

There's a few different ones, gloss, semi gloss, matte. I personally go for matte as it gives models a nice touch of class. You don't have to use a topcoat, but it can add a little to the appearance of your custom. I use this topcoat all the time for Gundam models, just be careful of humid days if you use it.

u/Jushy79 · 1 pointr/minipainting

Honestly, those brushes should do just fine but I can’t guarantee it because I have never used them, imo 12 brushes seems a bit excessive but you do you. I bought the Army Painters Wargamers most wanted brush set . Honestly these have been the best for me, the insane detail brush is one of my all time favorites for detail and the regiment is great for any kind of base coating or medium-large size miniatures. The small drybrush is great for highlighting and (obviously) dry brushing if you’re into that (you should be).

u/Vonderboy · 1 pointr/Gunpla

No problem. Are they a good price? They aren't anything super special just good quality brushes for a decent price. That being said, this one is literally the 3 I would suggest, if not maybe the psycho for details. And that's a really good price since they'd be at least $12 separate at my local shop.

u/Cursed989 · 1 pointr/minipainting

I'm a big fan of Army Painter products. I've had pretty good luck with them so I'm kind of slanted towards them. So I recommend...

1- a set of these brushes.

2- Any of the Army Painter primers are good. But this is my favorite. Coats and covers well. Also works for a lot of different models.

3- A set of these have come in handy for me several times.

4- These clear bases are my favorite. I've rebased several figures with these. Love them for there ability to show the terrain the figure is standing on.

5- And a cheap basecoat sized brush for mixing paints and brushing on quickshades.

This is obviously just my opinion. But I hope it helps.

u/dpeterso · 1 pointr/modelmakers

I use 4 brushes for almost everything.

Most of mine are wargaming brushes, but with right care they last you a long time.

This kit right here is what I use and it can do basically everything I need.

I also have one LARGE cheap brush that is a piece of crap and use it to do all my dirty work with dioramas and the like. It's my real workhorse.

u/locorules · 1 pointr/rpg

As a starting point you should probably look into natural Sable Brushes, size 2 for basecoating and 0 or 0/2 for finer detailing. Make sure it has a good point. I am currently using these, the regiment brush is quite good.

Some mini painters will quickly mention Newton and Winsor 7 series brushes or Raphael Kolinsky sable brushes, which are more expensive, but I cannot confirm that, I have not tried Kolinsky sable brushes. Be sure to buy a nice brush cleaner to preserve your natural hair brushes.

Here is a nice unbiased information (mini painters tend to be fanboys on certain brands of paints and brushes) about brushes or this one by one of the best mini painters around, one of the comments mentions Toray brushes which are often used by minipainters

EDIT: Added the APJ link

u/gweezer · 1 pointr/minipainting

Like, it seems, everyone else, that was my starter too. It's supremely useful for basic paints that you'll use on everything, blacks, greys, whites, and browns, but it had little else for specific details. (Which was probably the point). Mine came with a yellow, blue, and green that I don't like and have already replaced (except the yellow because I just don't use the color enough to need to). No red.

I'm personally not a fan of the paints themselves, though. They work for the fact that you don't have the money to buy all those browns and blacks individually, but they're too runny for my tastes, separate really easy and are hard to get back, and I just don't like dropper bottles. I feel like a lot of paint is wasted for the fact that I can't just drip my brush in when I just need it for one or two little details.

That said, I'm still using most of them. I bought my own paints for skin tones and bright colors. I use the GW Citadel paints, I know some people think they're too expensive, but they're over all better quality than most other paints I've tried.

When you first go to get extra paints, try something in a tub instead of with a dropper, see which one you like best. It took me a little getting used to the tubs, but I hate the droppers now.

As is said, you'll want better brushes. What I used for a long while is This They're not exactly great quality but they're better than most basic cheap sets you'll get at a craft store. The exceptional low price comes with a month long shipping time, though. Right now I'm trying out Army Painter brushes I got that set and the Character and Pshyco brushes. I only just bought them so I can't say anything myself, but I've heard good things.

One thing the kit doesn't even mention, if I remember right, is sealer. When I first started I tried to get a basic art acrylic sealer from a craft store, but it stayed forever sticky and destroyed the first few minis I painted, which was a huge disappointment. Your local game store should be able to show you what they use. I use the Citadel Purity Seal simply because it's all that local store had, I couldn't compare it to other spray sealers. It has a mate finish, and you have to be really careful to not over-coat or you'll loose detail.

I also have a little tub of Citadel 'ardcoat which is a high gloss sealer. I use it on top of the spray for a couple details, like anything wet or metal highlights, but in my experience anything glossy has been tacky, so use sparingly if you use at all.

u/NarcissaMalfoy · 1 pointr/90daysgoal

Not sketching necessarily but for Christmas I got an [aquapen] ( and a [teeny tiny watercolor pad] ( I carry both in a little pouch with my teeny [tiny watercolor set] ( If I'm sitting and having coffee with someone for an extended period (like just a Sunday morning hang) I pull out the pouch. All I need is a napkin (i.e. no cup, no brush) and it's really unobtrusive. It keeps me from looking at my phone while I talk to people and relaxes me (and sometimes other people as well.)

u/morgan_mayhem · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

the duck is alive

I LOVE this stuff. It's like powdered Christmas. Big Train Spiced Chai

And now I can't stop thinking about how nice it'd be to be sipping on that while playing with these... Pentel Arts Aquash Water Brushes 😀

u/aokagi · 1 pointr/infp

Those were Aquash waterbrushes by the brand Pentel :)

It works like normal brushes you use for watercolor but with little barrel inside to store water.

u/starlaoverdrive · 1 pointr/monobo

I came across these Jane Davenport Mermaid Markers at Michael's when I went to pick up some Tombow brush pens. I went back and forth on buying them but in the end I caved. They're like any old refillable water brush, and it's way cheaper than buying 12 water brushes and filling them with fountain pen inks (I have one water brush dedicate to FP ink). They're a dye-based water soluable ink and the tips are bristles instead of a flexible marker tip. A little ink goes a long way so I can see these lasting for a long time before I need to refill them!


Also I love seeing /u/colette0101's posts and I need more art-doing in my life!

u/iSmellMusic · 1 pointr/somethingimade

I actually just got a few and I'm making a watercolor journal for my DnD character :D It's not as clean and pretty as yours though lol.

You ever think about using water brushes?

u/Espadaman · 1 pointr/Watercolor

For someone just starting out, quality paper is the most important thing followed by paint and brushes. I recommend shopping online as you'll pay 2-3x more locally (unless you have a Blick store nearby, they usually match their online prices) and you can set your girlfriend up nicely without breaking the bank. I'm not sure what you're looking to spend so I'll try to give you a decent range of options.


Cotman and Van Gogh are the student versions of professional brands (Winsor Newton & Rembrandt) and the most often suggested for beginners. They come in pans (dried paint blocks you swipe with a wet brush to reactivate) and tubes. Though these are student grade they're both used professionally and very high quality. They're lightfast (won't fade with exposure to sun), use the same pigments that the professional brands do (though with a smaller amount) and are both very reasonably priced. And if she enjoys painting and looks to upgrade in the future, she could pick up the Professional version with minimal relearning how the paint performs (All brands behave a little differently on paper).

Of the two I would suggest Van Gogh as they're extremely vibrant, the pans are very easy to rewet (Cotman pans are difficult to get pigment from in my experience, and for someone learning to paint having to scrub a pan with a brush will be frustrating. The tubes better.) and come in nice compact travel sets that have a built in palette for mixing. The Set of 12 Pans is plenty to start with, you can mix a wide variety of colors from that. The 18 pan + 2 tube set is a great option as well as it gives you a nice variety of warm and cool primaries as well as convenient greens and earth colors, it comes with a small brush and sponge, I'd go with that one. The larger sets of 30-48 aren't necessary as they're mostly colors that are mixed from the single pigment paints included in the smaller sets, but if you think she'd enjoy having a ton of colors available without having to mix those are something you can look at too.

If you wanna ball out a little bit and get her some professional paints, Da Vinci has a ton of pan and tube set options. The 12 Full Pan Set again has everything she'd need getting started. They're as good as any brand out there. The pans are also twice the size of the student brand options and will last a very long time.

There's a ton of great paints out there, I suggest these because they're great value as well as quality and don't include a lot of the weird and rarely used colors you find in a lot of sets. I'd go with pans because they're ready to go as soon as you open them, you don't have to wait for the tube paint to dry for a day or two before you can store it or take it with you, they're very attractive gifts that are nice to look at (if you look on youtube you'll see 100s of videos of people just opening them and showing them off) and you can refill them with your own tube paints later on once you know what you like and start building your own palette. This time of the year there's tons of deals out there so if you find a nice set of Winsor Newton or something on amazon that's a great snag as well. Just avoid "store" brands like Artist's Loft or Masters Touch, or the tons of really cheap chinese sets you'll find online.


100% Cotton is the way to go. It can handle any technique and can take a ton of water without buckling or falling apart. Even the nicest paint will appear dull on poor watercolor paper and they can't handle much water before they start to give out. It can be a little pricey but it's well worth it. Again there's tons of brands but Arches is the most used and it's excellent so I don't wanna bog you don't with a bunch of brands. You could also grab a 22x30 inch sheet of Arches and tear it into a variety of smaller sheets (this is the most common and frugal way). Cold press is medium textured, Hot Press is smooth and Rough is obvious. Cold press is the most versatile so I'd start there. I don't use sketchbooks but if you're looking for something like that I've heard these are good.


Brushes are personal preference, some people only use one for everything and some people like a variety of size and hair types. If you wanna keep it simple a 10 or 12 Round is a good workhorse that can handle small detail and a larger wash. There's sets if you wanna get her a few to see what she likes. Synthetic or a blend is where I'd start as real sable or squirrel is pretty expensive. There's water brushes that aren't "traditional" but are popular for sketching or coloring ink art and are easy to use.

Hope this helps!

u/XnFM · 1 pointr/minipainting

An Airbrush Booth is essentially the most compact way to set up adeqeuate ventilation if you're not working in an area that's naturally well ventilated (like a garage or something). It's just like the fume hood on your stove or the exhasut fan in the bathroom, only it's generally connected to a box of some kind, usually with a light, and a lazy susan. I've linked that "standard" commercially available one, but there are other options as well. Some people DIY them as well, though i wouldn't recommend it if you don't have access to the tools and know-how to do it already.

u/WeaselStink · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

>Would you have a guess at consistency? Does a base coat like 50 paint / 50 water? Just an idea of an amount?

Depends on how thick the paint is, really. It can change from color to color, and even pot to pot. Varies with age of the paint too.

There is no magic ratio that I have found. It has to be mixed where it's thin enough to flow but still be able to stick. Too thick and it sputters, too thin and it goes on like a wash.

It's not that hard, just make adjustments as you're spraying.

>Damn! haha. Do the metal flakes give the brush issue?

Yes sir! Hit that one on the head.

>What is better? Do you use them both?

I use about 50/50 bottled water/vallejo flow improver.

Flow improver isn't cheap, but makes the paint stick a bit better.
Water is cheap, but turns the paint to a wash. 50/50 seems to work for me.

Kenny Boucher is the one that turned me on to the flow improver/water mix. He calls it "Gangsta Gumbo"

>When you say badger specific parts, do you mean replacement parts? How often do you have to replace pieces on them?

Mainly the oddball thread size where you connect your air supply from the compressor. The air hose was hard to find locally. Still ended up having to get some stuff from home depot to make it fit the compressor.

I think Iwata uses standard threads.

Replacement parts too, though that is true of any airbrush.

>What primer would you recommend using in your brush? I generally prefer a matte black.

Vallejo Surface Primer all day, baby! They have it in quite a few colors. I usually go with black.

>Are these small enough to place on my desk? I don't have much extra room in my office. Link to a decent one?

I find mine to be invaluable, I would not airbrush any other way. It is about 30" wide x 16" tall x 24" deep + hose that runs to the window out of the back of it. You will need a light for it.

edit After looking at the measurements on Amazon, it appears my memory for scale is borked. Is smaller than I said above.

>Thanks so much for taking the time to spread the knowledge!

No problem bud! The airbrush has saved me a ridiculous amount of time and made my models look far better.

u/dravenhavok · 1 pointr/minipainting

This airbrush booth is what I use as I also exclusively airbrush indoors. The fact that it folds into a neat little suitcase is a huge deal for me since I have very limited space.

u/Jberg18 · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

I've been using one of these for airbrushing (as well as using a mask) and it seems to work well. It should help glue fumes too if you vent it to outside.

u/chhappy7 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Selling - prices do not include shipping shipping will be via USPS flat rate, either small or medium (airbrush stuff probably large). Let me know if you want me to include box art and/or manual as well.

* RG Strike Freedom Wing of Skies Bandai - $20 I already tried it on for my RG SF

* RG Strike Freedom - $10 panel lined, decal'd. Parts of gold frame painted with gold

  • MG Unicorn OVA ver - $40 decal'd no panel line or top coat or paint; includes a Chinese knockoff Armed Armor DE

    * Master Airbrush® Brand Airbrush 3 in 1 Cleaning Pot-air Brush Holder-paint/car - $5+shipping; used once with the airbrush set link

    * Master Airbrush® Brand Portable Hobby Airbrush Spray Booth - $60+shipping; used once with the airbrush set; link

    * Master Airbrush Brand High Performance Multi-purpose Gravity Feed Dual-action Airbrush Kit with 6 Foot Hose and a Powerful 1/5hp Single Piston Quiet Air Compressor - $60+shipping; used once to put primer on a few parts for a car kit. link
u/cheese61292 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Some Compressor + Airbrush sets are good (like those from Pasche or Iwata) but it's all relative to your needs (as a good brush might not be good for Gunpla due to the scale) and what is offered.

There's actually a very good deal going on right now, as you can get a Paasche TG-3F with Compressor and all your needed accessories + Prime shipping (or free Super Saver shipping.)

With this set you have all you need to functionally airbrush but you'll also want to pick up some needed "accessories" for you.

  • Respirator, at least a half mask - Local Hardware Store for best options
  • P100 Filters - same as above
  • Alligator Clips on Sticks - you can pick them up at Hardware or Hobby Stores locally as well
  • Foam Block to put the skewers into and hold up the parts while you paint. Local hobby store, or if you have the packaging material used to ship heavy electronics like TVs that would work as well.
  • Spray Booth, if you plan to spray inside at least
  • Airbrush Lube, Iwata SuperLube or Badger Needle Juice
  • Cleaning Brushes, just part of your more in depth cleaning routine that you'll need to do.

    You will also want to pick up some glass jars (for storing & mixing paints) as well as some plastic pipes for more accurate paint measurements (makes the jars less messy as well.)

    I highly suggest getting an easy to clean brand of paint like Vallejo Air to start with, so you can learn with less trouble as Vallejo can be cleaned up in an instant with Windex or water.
u/dragonxx21 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Man you guys have it good in the US. Those kits are way more expensive in Canada :P That spray booth looks great! Too bad it's twice the price on D: \

Edit: How often do you worry about that thing blowing up?

u/fuzzy_one · 1 pointr/cosplay

There is but it is challenging... and can get expensive. Here are some options.

  • Construct one - You can make a frame out of wood, depending on the size, you can use square dowels or even 2x4’s for large ones. You can use a heavy gauge plastic drop cloth for all the sides. A cheap fan can help you vent the overspray out a window or door.

  • Buy One You can buy spray booths like this one, from multiple sources such as amazon. Problem will be getting one the right size with out getting overly expensive.

    Either way the largest challenge will be dealing with overspray that will be in the exhaust from the booth.

  • You need a fan that is strong enough to pull air through the fan and not allow paint out the front of the booth.

  • You also don’t want to rain paint down on people or property below your vent. You can catch some of it out by using an air filter between the spray booth and exhaust fan, but the more they can catch, the more expensive filters will be.
u/Spiridios · 1 pointr/ResinCasting

I have one of these hobby spray booths setup in my garage for winter painting. I didn't spend that much on it though, they can be had cheaper on ebay. The switch went bad on mine, so I had it open. It's just a large computer box fan, a duct, a filter, and some shielding, so if you're handy you could probably build one.

u/weableandbob · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Looking to set up a spray area in my apartment in the near future, but first a couple of questions:

  1. The area I have to work with is about 10 x 10 feet, outside of which I have things that I don't want to get any sort of paint dust on. Is it safe to assume that any overspray won't be able to make it that far as long as I have a proper spray booth?

  2. Does anyone have any experience with this spray booth? I'm aware that building your own is cheaper, but I'm fine paying extra to save time as long as the pre-built option does its job well enough.
u/wjapple · 1 pointr/Gunpla

if you have any other beginner questions, dont forget to post them here

this is a great Airbrush starter kit.

I got one a little over a year ago and it has held up really well for the price.

I would recommend using Tamiya Acrylic paints, thinned either with alcohol based thinner, or lacquer thinner.

you will also need a spray booth, a DIY booth would be the cheapest route but many folks go for this one and it seems to do the job.

there are many other supplies( respirator, pipettes, alligator clips, skewers, etc) you can pick up but those are the big items to get started.

u/grrcracker · 1 pointr/Gunpla

So still a work in progress. But I figured I would post up what I have so far. Had a catastrophic failure on the hands, broke the outer pieces that the fingers snap in to. Have some touch ups to do and stripping and repainting on the skirts in the works also. Still need to decal, top coat and panel line. But pretty happy with how things are turning out. This is the airbrush kit I am using, along with this hood and if you don't have one of these lamps, do yourself a favor and pick on up. They are awesome.

u/isforza3outyet · 1 pointr/minipainting

I got an airbrush for Christmas and picked this up:
It is a fold- up airbrush station that blows the paint fumes out the window. Maybe that would work? I havent tried it yet, because my airbrush is in the mail.

u/_Whammo_ · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Hey! I was in a similar situation a few months ago with around a $200 budget as well. Here's what I got:

Airbrush: Iwata Revolution - It's a great airbrush and is almost always on sale on Amazon for under $100. It's easy to use, easy to clean, and is solvent safe, meaning you can spray more than just acrylics.

Compressor: Master Airbrush - I wanted something with a tank on it because I didn't want it to run the entire time, and this one fit the bill. It's super quiet (I can even run it at night), and it comes with a moisture trap, which is super important. It also comes with a hose!

That brings everything to about $200, so there's not much wiggle room to fit other stuff in if you draw a hard line on your budget, but definitely consider:

Spray Booth: Master Airbrush- This thing is amazing. I love it. It's compact and super easy to use. It folds up super tidy and even has a button to retract the cord.

Cleaner: Iwata-Medea Airbrush Cleaner - comes in different sizes, but it's been wonderful when cleaning out my brush between paints or when I need to do my monthly field-strip.

Thinner, Retarder, and Flow Improver: Vallejo products!- I love the Vallejo Auxillaries. They're easy to use, pretty cheap, and widely available depending where you live.

u/Sparkdog · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I'm looking to get a spray booth for airbrushing. Amazon has a bunch of those fold-up all-in-one booths like this in the $90-$120 range. I'm wondering if anyone can vouch for their effectiveness. It just needs to do an OK job venting lacquer fumes from an airbrush, I won't be using any spray cans with it.

If those things are junk, I'm wondering if anyone has built one of those DIY plastic bin type booths, and can recommend a good, budget-priced fan to use.

u/bkoon1218 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

So, I was thinking of starting my airbrushing career with this. I only plan on using Vallejo air colors with a respirator mask. Do I need to get the venting tube?

u/vodka-and-espresso · 1 pointr/Warhammer

Only thing I recommend is picking up some drop cloths to make clean-up easier; it's not nearly as bad as spray paint, but some particles will still cover the ground. I bought this to use with it, and it's greatly reduced dusting.

u/ducttapealien · 1 pointr/Gunpla

This spray booth might be what you need.

The hose can be closed in a window to vent most of the fumes. I would still recommend taking precautions to guard against mist getting on other things in the room but I use this booth in my basement and vent it like a dryer and it work fine. It is not overly large and it closes up into a compact form for storage.

u/honda_fast · 1 pointr/ModelCars

I use this:

Loved it so much I bought another one to increase the size! One is enough for all cars and most planes. If you like to built huge 1/48 planes you'll need two pushed together.

u/cacaus · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Can I use an aluminum or pvc viynl hose to replace my plastic hose in my airbrush station?

I have this airbrush station and due to long time being stored on my window, the sun has made the plastic hose dry out and crack. I am looking for a replacement and can't find any with just the 4inch diameter plastic hose. However I do see some 4 inch diameter exhaust hoses made with different material (aluminum / pvc viynl). Can I use one of those instead of having to a replacement for the whole plastic hose unit? Which one would be best?

u/MiscalculatedRisk · 1 pointr/minipainting

You really want a spray booth not so much to avoid spraying other objects, but to avoid inhaling paint particles that can fly back into your face.

Here is what my buddy bought it's very compact and works well, I've used it myself as well.

u/n0vast0rm · 1 pointr/modelmakers

>is there any advice you guys could give me so that I end up ruining the finish on my kits?

Why certainly, just spray with tar thinned with engine oil, i garuantee you will end up ruining the finish on your kits =D

On topic though since i'm not much of a DIY-er and looking for a spray booth myself, i've found they don't have to be very expensive.
Example 1
Example 2

Those have a hose that you can hang out the window making ventilation no longer a problem.
Disclaimer though: i'm still looking and haven't actually used any of these nor done much research into them yet so they might be utter crap, but hopefully some fellow modelers will have experience?

u/ice_09 · 1 pointr/minipainting

I have this one :

without the light and it gets the job done. It is not the fanciest setup, but it really does work.

u/hatgineer · 1 pointr/modelmakers

You are right that acrylics are relatively safe. You still don't want to breathe in the particles though. Just get one of them spray booths and extend the hose with something similar from Home Depot.

u/AsymmetricCats · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Yet another question about paints! I'm grabbing some Mr Color paints (because the stuff I want to do does not have an applicable Tamiya paint mixture laid out anywhere and I don't want to try 'eyeballing' shades just yet) but I have one small worry about them.

How bad ARE the fumes? I live in an apartment that's a pretty decent size and my current gunpla workroom is large but has no windows. So how much trouble am I signing up for here? I've been eying this thing here : but again, no nearby windows to run the piping to. Would it be okay to just run it out the door of the small(er) room into my larger room, which does have a patio door I can open for natural ventilation, or is that also too little?

I just really don't want to end up making myself sick for my hobby.

u/DevilsArms · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Ive used it twice. Imo, for its cost and size, it gets the job done. I have a pretty cramped space, so being able to collapse it and store it has been pretty helpful. I opted the one that came with attachable LED lights. The lights help, but make it a little hard to see sometimes due to the color of the LEDs.

Though, I may have a different brand than OP.

Spray booth

u/Lehovron · 1 pointr/Gunpla

You need the tools and you need the space. I used a circular saw and tried my best to get straight corners and square pieces but it is a little crooked here and there. A table saw would have been awesome to have for this.

If you have those tools and know how to use them, this is not a hard thing to build.

But honestly, I thought I was saving money building my own like this but I am pretty sure this thing would have been cheaper. Even with the adapter I would need to use it in Sweden...

u/chiggachiggameowmeow · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I just set up a teeny airbrush/gunpla work desk in a carpeted spare bedroom. My wife will lose her shit if I get paint ANYwhere on the carpet or guest bed. For now, I plan to only spray Future clear and some flat coats before gradually moving on to Tamiya acrylics (and perhaps Gaia lacquers). Other than what I have below - can anyone suggest some tips for maintaining a CLEAN and efficient small work area?

  • Drop cloth on table and floor just underneath desk
  • Airbrush spray booth with an exhaust to the window
  • Air purifier and desk fan
u/Marth171 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

This was the set that I initially purchased. The air brushes that came with the kit are a little on the cheap side but they were good for me to learn with.

This is the spray booth that I purchased a little while ago. So far the booth has been great. I'm able to spray indoors, both rattle cans and my airbrush. You just have to change the filter every once in a while, and I think the filters are ~$10.

I recently purchased this airbrush. I havent been able to use it yet though because I need an adapter to use it with the hose for my compressor.

u/exploited751 · 1 pointr/Tau40K

This is the booth I have, I really like it, it lights up really well, the fan suction is no where near strong enough to effect sprays or move light pieces but enough to keep the particles and such going out of it:

u/bibs4353 · 1 pointr/Warhammer

please take into account the air compressor too. It can have a major impact on your airbrushing experiences. There are some decent starting ones like:

I used this one for quite awhile with pretty good results but it is loud. I ended up recently buying an iwata compressor and it is super nice but they are expensive.

u/Logosmonkey · 1 pointr/minipainting

Master Airbrush Model TC-40T - Cool Runner Professional High Performance Single-Piston Airbrush Air Compressor with 3-Liter Air Tank, 2 Holders, Regulator, Gauge, Water Trap Filter & Air Hose

This one is awesome.

u/shutter_release · 1 pointr/Sneakers

I have an Iwata eclipse airbrush that I've had for probably 8 years now. It's a great airbrush.

It's the same brand and probably model that Mache is using in this video.

u/Xenosymmetry · 1 pointr/Warhammer

Thank you very much for the thorough reply! I do need to work on highlighting. This is the first time I started actually painting the highlights on instead of dry-brushing everything. Also, I am waiting on a hose for my new Iwata-Medea airbrush and I think that will help me make the future vehicles look even better.

u/dylan227 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I bought the airbrush in the first link (it looks the same in the second link) and the button to release the air broke on the second day of using it :/. I now have this one, and it's working well. This one is also good.

u/morganfnf · 1 pointr/BloodAngels




These are all that I use and have been nothing but happy with them. I'm one of those with the mindset that if I'm going to invest, I'm going to invest - and the Iwata Eclipse is praised far and wide as one of, if not the, best airbrush out there.

u/scf389 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Make sure you buy a hose if you buy a compressor without one (eg. if you buy used).

You will want to buy a respirator.

You can also jump-start his accessories list by including some cleaning supplies (spray-out pot, airbrush cleaner), as well as some paints/primer/topcoat (tamiya, mr color, vallejo, alclad ii, etc.).

I believe this can all be done with a budget of 300$ (assuming US). At this point, he could start spraying that day if he wanted.

EDIT: I use this Master Airbrush Compressor and the Iwata HP-CS airbrush. I've been happy with them so far, but I do wish I spent a little more on a compressor with a tank (as /u/7x13 recommends).

u/Apollo_3_14 · 1 pointr/minipainting

I would say that you would only really see benefits with a higher quality air compressor if you've already got your skill using an airbrush really dialed in until then a cheaper airbrush would really suffice. I'll entirely honest I've only been airbrushing my miniatures for a couple of months now but I've had the honor of using my friends high quality compressor but I've also been using my cheap Master Compressor. If i'm being entirely honest with you at my skill level I can't even tell the slightest difference between the two. My much more skilled friend can notice a huge difference between the two compressors but again, he's been airbrushing for almost five years. Now for a beginner I am using a slightly nicer airbrush, I'm using the Iwata HP-CS. I was recommended by him that I get the nicer airbrush and the cheaper air-compressor because the fine detail work that you're almost constantly doing with miniatures, he argued that the airbrush would have much higher returns per dollar than the more expensive air-compressor. I hope that helped a little. Take that all with a grain of salt because Like I said before I'm new and these are just my personal observations.

u/sujinjian · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Anyone have any opinions on the Iwata Eclipse Airbrush and Iwata Silver Jet compressor?

Thinking about getting those to start airbrushing

Linked below:

u/KeeperOfWind · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I must had posted in the wrong section.

I did some research on gunpla before I got ready to invest into it.

So I was wondering what airbrush should I pick up as a beginner.
I'm looking to use these airbrush for everything and finer detailing on models.

The iwata eclipse is a recurring brand I've seen on bunch of blogs and seems to be the most popular

So which one should I buy? Can anyone recommend any of these?

Last at least the air compressor and other parts.
I've also seen this recommended on one blog:

Apparently it's better then a hobby's air compressor cause of the constant air flow you will get?
I was wondering what kind of hose and connectors I would need for either the badger or iwata if I picked up the air compressor.

Sorry for any spelling or grammar mistakes in advance as I'm typing on my phone.

u/Goldkillz · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I use this Compressor and this airbrush you need a adapter for the hose it comes with but its a good place to start.

u/crystalmerchant · 1 pointr/modelmakers

Ah gotcha. Yeah I'm looking at this one and similar. Reports and videos are that it's about the noise level of a small fan, sort of. Which to me is acceptable. Has the auto on-off and moisture trap too. Can totally see the appeal of CO2 only though -- zero noise is better than a little noise, right? :)

u/Jack6478 · 1 pointr/modelmakers

Yeah, that compressor wasn't looking too good to me either. Replaced it with this.

I'm also going with the Paasche because of how many extras it comes with, like the three different needle sizes.

u/Ursin_Brennus · 1 pointr/minipainting

For your same $176, you might want to get this compressor with tank and Badger Patriot airbrush. For another $25 ($201 total) you could get this 3-in-1 Badger instead.

u/VentureGunpla · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I was able to get my airbrush set up for around 90 dollars.

I bought a used old $40 testors AC2000 from ebay, and a Iwata Neo CS for 45 dollars using Hobby lobby's 40% off. If you keep your eyes peeled for deals you can get a fairly cheap set up as well. If you're buying new, I'd recommend this compressor as it's cheap, comes with a tank, and produces adequate pressure. This will leave you with around $100 to get your airbrush and other supplies. Since it comes with a 1/8th hose it can fit the iwata airbrush without an adapter, but you'll need a specific adapter for either of the badger brushes.

Compressed aircans are sort of a step back, but if that's what you need to do then go for it. Getting a good compressor first is nice though, as they will last you a long long time.

u/MohnJaddenPowers · 1 pointr/Gunpla

If your budget is like that, get this for your compressor:

Then get this airbrush:

The Talon has all the features of the Iwata HP-CS at a fraction of the price. I've been using one for some time. My only complaint is that I'm looking at a wider nozzle, but that might just be me needing to nut up and thin my paint even more than I normally do, and just be more patient.

u/FreakinfreakInfreaki · 1 pointr/modelmakers

I'll be honest and say I got a similar kit from Amazon. Compressor works great the airbrush... not so much. I ended up just buying a Iwata Revolution. If you can afford it I'd recommend this compressor as it has a storage tank and then get a better airbrush. Just my opinion though.

u/wombat_supreme · 1 pointr/Warhammer

Totally worth it. There is a learning curve for sure, so if you keep it simple in the beginning with zenithal light technique, it will do wonders for your models and keep your sanity at the same time.
When you do get one, make sure you get a compressor that has a tank. I had one that did not and it was not usable. Also, a mosture trap is a must. posted a couple links for some reasonably priced brush and compressor that has the above mentioned features

u/tjkopena · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

I have this compressor, which I got as part of this kit. I'm only a beginner with the airbrush, but I highly recommend both. The compressor delivers a steady stream of air and doesn't heat up or make serious noise. I can easily use it at night without disturbing anybody even across the hall in my house.

Like OneWhoGeneralises said, GW's paints need to be thinned a lot. They're very thick for an airbrush to begin with, and tend to clot up even more as they dry out over time. I had a lot of trouble at first using mine without clogging up the airbrush. i can do it now, but mostly use Vallejo Air. I also found that Jay Adan video really helpful.

u/Sonofnocturne · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

NEW Quiet 1/6 hp MASTER AIRBRUSH TANK COMPRESSOR-(FREE) AIR HOSE and Now a (FREE) How to Airbrush Training Book to Get You Started, Published Exclusively By TCP Global.

u/scooby00700 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

if you got some room to spare for compressor you can hit up ebay or amazon for this cheap compressor combo.

just remember to allow some cool down time and don't run your compressor for extended time or it will heat up and slow down the pump unit.

u/DobermanCavalry · 1 pointr/modelmakers

I have This Compressor and it has worked great so far. I also have a badger 150 that I use with it. I have done 1/350 ships with it however not for a while. I mainly focus on 1/35 tanks and sometimes 1/48 aircraft.

u/Incidental_Octopus · 1 pointr/minipainting

Yeah, sounds like you've eliminated things down to a problem inside the compressor itself.

TBH those types of compressors are practically just repackaged aquarium pumps, and IMO aren't what anyone should use. Even when they work, they top out at such a rock-bottom low PSI and CFM that they're basically unusable outside of one or two VERY narrow use cases. For model airbrushing, you want something a little bit stronger.

The Iwata Ninja Jet is WAY overpriced for how inherently limited it is. Return it, and get something like this or this instead (I use the latter, and can vouch for it).

u/indierockclimber · 1 pointr/StarWarsArmada

Honestly, don't bother with either of those compressors. You REALLY want one with a tank. For precision painting, the tank ensures an even air flow, while the kind that don't have a reserve tank sometimes can't keep up with consistent spray.

I have this one:

YES, it's more expensive, but honestly if you want to do it, I highly suggest you do it right. Had several friends buy those starter kits and they always wound up replacing both the compressor and brush it comes with, thus spending more.

Speaking of brush, those brushes are pretty bad. They aren't precision machined, so they use O-Rings all over the place. Those are hard to clean and a point of failure.

I have two airbrushes that I adore: an Iwata Revolution and a Grex (I forget the model)

You have a few different kinds of grips: a pistol grip and a pen grip. I have one of each and use them for different applications, but have found that I mostly prefer the Grex.

I think this is what I have:

Someone can probably recommend a cheaper alternative-

I recommend a gravity feed. Side feed and vacuum feed are both more of a pain to clean, and don't work so well with small amounts of paint for miniature work.

Anyways, just my opinions and observations. YMMV!

u/MichaelAndrewMk6 · 1 pointr/modelmakers

If you're getting something other than I believe 1/8" BSP hose you will need an adapter. I have an Iwata but I think Badger uses a different fitting.

u/Nrthstar · 1 pointr/Warhammer

I had the same goal as you, but eventually I broke down and went up a few bucks, knowing that I needed a compressor with a tank. So I went on Amazon and picked up this Master. Is it flawless, no, but I can paint for a long time without much worry.

While searching for the actual airbrush itself though, I jumped online and got a Hobby Lobby 40% off coupon and picked up this Iwata for a reasonable price. It's a decent airbrush although I'm plotting to use another coupon and pickup it's much more expensive siblings for detail work.

You can refine any airbrush though with some Regdab from Badger, it is some great lube, which you'll need anyways to keep a brush going and keep from wearing out the internal oring which would cause blowback failure.

You'll be at around $150 before paints if you have Amazon prime, but this setup has been great for a starter kit. Go too cheap and you'll have a bad experience and regret it. I'm loving it though, being able to blast through basecoating rapidly, and finally getting to paint vehicles without unwanted brush strucks on flat points. I intend to do almost all of my layers on a plastic contemptor with it and some liquid masking.

u/GunplaCyril · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Don't go the cheap route in buying an airbrush. I HIGHLY recommend you buy an airbrush from iwata, their quality and prices are great. I myself use an Iwata HP C Plus for 2 years and it still is my go-to brush. It can do anything, from fine detail jobs to wide sprays for blending. For an air compressor, you should get one with a tank. Here is a good set to buy Iwata w/ compressor combo. Save up and go for quality on airbrushes, trust me.

Or if you want to save up on money, you can buy another Iwata airbrush, the HP CR Revolution gravity feed which is a great airbrush at a fraction of the price.

For airtanks, I've used a couple, but they really don't differ much with brands in my opinion. Go for an air compressor with a tank like this one from amazon.

Now if you're looking for a high quality airbrush and price doesn't matter, I recommend you buy this badboy from hobbywave. Its my second airbrush, and it handles like a dream.

Hope this helps.

u/Tobi816 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Stupid question. My airbrush was delivered today and everything looks perfect! There is one tiny little nick? that I think will do nothing to affect the air brush, though the 1/8th connector I have for the Badger 105 Patriot leaves some of the thread left. Anyways that is not my question.


Am I able to test this airbrush with water? I have airbrush cleaner coming, hopefully in a few days and not July 16-30th like the package says... I would like to test it to see if any air leaks out through anywhere and I would also like to test if paint leaks so I was hoping water would do that job.


Also I bought this compressor and I have no idea how to regulate? the PSI on it... Does anyone know how to do that? I am very new to airbrushing as one can see...

u/evlgeneus · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Master Airbrush Compressor

I don't have enough experience to definitively say whether I'd recommend it or not. My thought process was to get a good quality airbrush and pick a decently cheap compressor to learn on.

It seemed to work well enough this time around.

u/erichagz12 · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

I have this one and it never turns off. I bought it used elsewhere and can’t return. Ive read how to fix the problem of never turning off, but I haven’t figured it out yet. I don’t have anything to compare to, but it works really well besides never turning off.

u/hoplight · 1 pointr/modelmakers

Thanks for the input! I ended up increasing my budget and picked up this brush, and this compressor.

u/Terrasel · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Iwata Revolution CR, and as for a compressor: Try looking at this one

u/tagrav · 1 pointr/discgolf

yeah that's what I was worried about. this is the type of pen in question

I'm not sure it adds any thickness as a fingernail doesnt even seem to hitch on it :-/

u/SweatpantsHero · 1 pointr/Sneakers

I used a sharpie to clean up my soles, worked pretty well. I also saw these at my local target.

[White oil based sharpie]

u/Ouranox · 1 pointr/Sneakers

I used an oil based marker, more specifically this one. I made a previous post showing the before and after here. The good thing about this method is that there's no cracking since it's ink not paint although I'm still waiting to see how long it takes before the ink wears out after wear.

u/spmusik · 1 pointr/Sneakers

I’ve done exactly this on 3 pairs of boost kicks.


u/4_jacks · 1 pointr/BMWZ4

4 coats with the Sharpie and then use the razor to scrap away all the places I messed up.

Forgive the dirty wheels.

u/pinkb0xes · 1 pointr/adidas

There is a thread going on Nike Talk right now regarding this. Someone mentioned using one of these:

u/extracreddit45 · 1 pointr/Sneakers
u/afipanic · 1 pointr/Sneakers

I use this type of sharpie to paint my boost back to white on other pairs. They have a black, you could give it ago and see what happens.

u/tooboosted · 1 pointr/Sneakers
u/anieves56 · 1 pointr/adidas

The best thing for painting the boost is the sharpie oil markers Sharpie Oil Paint MParker Bold White (35568 ...

u/NipTassel · 1 pointr/fakeid

If I remember correctly, people were using a white sharpie. Use the search bar.


u/The_cogwheel · 1 pointr/airbrush

If this was the kit you're looking at then I should warn you that it is missing the compressor. If you already have an air compressor capable of producing a steady 20PSI then you'll be good to go, but if you still need a compressor them, fair warning: the compressor can be just as expensive as the airbrush itself - which is probably why they didnt include one in that kit. Asside from a missing compressor, it does look like a solid kit

u/Wood_Eye · 1 pointr/minipainting

Thank you for the response. How much time do you usually airbrush for? Do you do a lot of detail work with it? I was thinking I would just be doing base coats and the initial highlights, then finishing with a brush.

These Master or Paasche tanks seem good. I am concerned about the 1 star reviews though, seems like they can break.

For now I think I am going to try my Hitachi and see how it goes. I can always get an airbrush compressor later.

u/jwarenec1 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I really want get into airbrushing my pieces, I wanted to know how consistent this compressor is...

I'm not looking to break the bank, but I keep seeing mixed reviews with Master compressors.


u/FrankTheSpaceMarine · 1 pointr/Warhammer

For that money you could probably pick up a relatively good airbrush/compressor set. If he's never used one before it would be a fairly big change in his painting process, but I've yet to meet a modeller that doesn't lust after that smooth airbrush finish!

Paasche make excellent airbrushes, this looks like quite a good one. This would be a sufficient compressor to pair it with although you may need an adapter if the lone user review is to be trusted. This would leave you some budget left to pick up extra supplies like paint thinning solution (for making normal acrylics airbrush friendly).

u/alecKarfonta · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Got one of these:

It kinda sucks. It has to run constantly even for light painting on Gundams. Also I had to add a fan cause I could smell plastic on it melting after long sessions. Tho it has been running solid for years. I've even forgotten it on many times and its still kicking. Might be overkill, I think it goes to like 60psi, I normally use 20-25.

Happy painting

u/teddyzaper · 1 pointr/Multicopter

use these. you can re-apply after crashes to keep looking fresh

u/spacepod · 1 pointr/WaltDisneyWorld

I've heard oil markers work really well

u/MyStationIsAbandoned · 1 pointr/resinkits


so if i get this:

What else would need besides the paint? Would be all that i needed or would i need some kind motor or whatever? All I want to use the air brush for is painting skin. I have a spray can for primer that's worked well for me so far.

u/Ephriel · 1 pointr/Warhammer

the iwata neo is a good cheap airbrush. I used to use one untill I upgraded to a Sotar, and they're pretty decent.

u/gunplanium-alloy · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I too would appreciate this.

Not Black Friday but I was recommended this compressor and this air brush on the Discord channel yesterday.

u/andrewlantz · 1 pointr/airbrush

I have this one. It is great and it has never let me down. As far as an airbrush, I suggest the Neo. If you are from the US they will be cheaper yet.

u/IsThisUsernameFree · 1 pointr/Warhammer

I have one cheap 0.2mm Sparmax SP20 and one Iwata Revolution Br (0.3mm). The cheaper one is a lot more work to clean and maintain, though I am unsure if it is a quality issue or just the smaller nozzle diameter that's causing it.

I don't have this one, but I have heard very good things about it:

If you plan on buying one, look at the "frequently bought together" area a bit under the main image. You do want a quick-disconnect and the cleaning pot, it makes it a lot easier. You should also consider a soft, braided hose (the plastic ones are often a bit springy and can resist your movements).

Do you have a suitable compressor?

u/CplCrawfish · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

If you're looking to spend a little less, I have the Neo, and I'm very happy with it.
Then again, I don't do anything crazy with it whatsoever, mainly for basecoats of light colours or large models.

u/Dewyn · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

Out of my 3 airbrushes I seriously still find myself using this bad boy. It's easy to clean (paint well screws off) and it's not very expensive at all.

u/Eridanit · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I'm seeing it for $54.50 on amazon :

Idk if there's anything wrong with that one, because that is cheaper than most places, but the reviews are good.

u/johno_mendo · 1 pointr/modelmakers

The compressor is branded different in Australia but this is it.
And it seams the brush is a little more on amazon in australia but it is worth every penny and the cheapest quality airbrush around.

u/AcadianMan · 1 pointr/airbrush

You can't go wrong with an Iwata NEO. I'm not sure how much detail is involved in what you are painting, but this airbrush is very versatile.

If you look at the bottom "Customers who bought this also bought" you will see compressors.

u/ViggoMiles · 1 pointr/Warmachine

That? how much are the rest of the hose and hopper run, do you know?

u/TheCoxer · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Is it worth getting an airbrush and air compressor? Would this air compressor and air brush be good? I've been interested in painting and building more complex kits and was wondering if I should make the investment.

u/I-Like-Turrdles · 1 pointr/minipainting

This is my setup, I'm happy with it.

Additionally, a decent airbrush that is a little cheaper. to keep in mind, is that the NEO is NOT made by Iwata. It's a Chinese airbrush with their name on it. But I've heard it's quite decent. Here's a video on it, and it's got a great video for learning to clean your airbrush in the description.

u/Oghrim05 · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

Great advice thank you. I got a set of 12 synthetic detail brushes on amazon for a little over $20 that seems like a great jumping-off point:

Once I am more confident in my brush care I will spring for W/N. I got the pick of masters brush cleaner too, and set up a wet palette in a small Tupperware box the way I saw on the Tabletop Minions channel:

Airbrushing still seems miles away (advanced) and I don’t think I have a workstation set up for it. I’m going to rattle-can prime the dark imperium box next.

u/taillesspigeon4 · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

This brush set was the single best (and one of the cheapest), investments I made early on in this hobby. There's a great variety of sizes and styles, and it really let's you figure out what you're comfortable with.

u/martinw89 · 1 pointr/educationalgifs

Black 2.0 is not "sick as hell" at all. It's just matte black paint. Don't make my mistake and buy into the manufactured social media hype. I had a use in mind for it (blackening the inside of a telescope tube) and it did worse than the factory coating when I did a test splotch. I also recommend looking at the 2.9 out of 5 star Amazon reviews with more pictures if one test isn't enough.

u/LeFouHibou · 1 pointr/SWlegion

Legion is my first miniature game as well! A buddy of mine recommended a army painter set when I first started. To be honest they are not that great and a couple of the brushes have fallen apart. I have been eyeing these brushes on amazon:

they seem like a nice set! Those vallejo paints will work perfectly, I have a few of them and I really like their product. Citadel paints (in my opinion) are top tier paint quality wise. If you dont want to shell out the "Citadel Tax" for them, vallejo is an awesome product for the price.

u/Hurleyburleyalters · 1 pointr/mtgaltered

What about buying thicker handled brushes? Or putting pencil grippies on them.

Edit: Like these

u/NutCalculator · 1 pointr/blackmagicfuckery
u/MilkJakes · 1 pointr/blackmagicfuckery

It should be noted that Semple also released his own version called “Vantablack 2.0” not quite as black but still very very black.

u/StubbsMcNolegs · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

Detail Paint Brush Set 12pc Minute Series XII Miniature Brushes for Fine Detailing & Art Painting.

If these ever come back in stock, they are really nice brushes for the money. Been using them almost exclusively recently. They get more use than my Windsor and Newton brushes.

u/twotonkatrucks · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Hi all. I was thinking about easing my way into painting by way of brush painting details. I'm just looking for recommendation on brushes and set of paints.

In particular, I've read good reviews about the D'Artisan Shoppe's set - is it worth the price?

u/jsullivandigs · 1 pointr/airbrush

I was thinking something along these lines:

ZENY Pro 1/5 HP Airbrush Air Compressor Airbrushing Kit w/ 3L Tank and 6FT Hose Multipurpose for Hobby Paint Cake Tattoo Nail

Not sure what you could do to make it quieter. Maybe sit it on a towel to absorb some of the vibration or something like that?

u/dvfex · 1 pointr/minipainting

If you want a small compressor you want something like this. They come with and without the airtank but if you're willing to shell out the bucks one with a tank is a better option. The one you've linked isn't really suitable to your needs. You could look at a deal like this one and then get a better airbrush as your next purchase. As well, check out sites like harborfreight, they often have deals on compressors.

u/StoryofReddit · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

I just went through this myself and am very happy with my purchases. This is a complete entry level set with the tools you will need to maintain it. Assuming you're US based, you could have everything Monday with Prime shipping.

  • Airbrush - $27 - This is a basic brush with the ability to change between 0.2, 0.3(most common), and 0.5mm tips. This gives you the flexibility to go from precise to blanket applications.

  • Compressor - $120 - I opted for a model with a tank to help regulate the air output. The compressor still ends up running most of the time during extended applications so I'm not sure how much it helps but I didn't want to take chances. You could save ~$40 by getting a model without a tank. You could always add a tank later if you feel the need.

  • Cleaner - $12 - You need this before you even think about starting. One cleaner seems about as good as another so pick whatever.

  • Tools - $7 - You will need to clean paint from the internals. Some of these brushes will work for that. There seems to be differing opinions in the community over how useful these are but I opted for them and use them every so often.

  • Cleaning Pot - $15 - You will need one for your station and everyone uses this one. Definitely spray the cleaner through into this.

  • Wash Bottle - $6 - 500 mL bottle you fill with water. This will allow you to rinse the pot at your station without having to go to a sink (though you still might use one often). Get a bucket or tupperware container to rinse into.

    This will allow you to setup a bare-bones station. You could also get a fume hood or just spray into a box in a well ventilated room. Get a good white led light (if you don't have on already) to illuminate your workspace and you're good to go.
u/mjdailey · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Thanks for the suggestion! Saw a few people complain about that unit getting too hot so I spent a little more to get their TC-40T model which has a built in fan.

u/poppypippy · 1 pointr/Gunpla

This is what I used! Applies a chrome looking effect to the plastic

Molotow Liquid Chrome Marker 1Mm

u/ThaddeusJP · 1 pointr/HotWheels

Cool, thanks for the reply. When I do chrome work I just used a silver sharpie but your work looks much, much nicer.

Edit: Found it on Amazon for those others that may be interested

u/PYJX · 1 pointr/Gunpla
u/Lok27 · 1 pointr/IronHands40k

Looks awesome. It looks like you got some of the rivets, but a nice little tool I've recently found is this little pen. It's been super helpful and really makes the small details pop.

u/ThatClassyBear · 1 pointr/RepTime

Should of bought a Molotow pen.

u/adderal · 1 pointr/RepTime

Yeah, that's the right one. Sorry I said chrome earlier-- i had read either on RWI or RG where someone was trying this one..

but metallic silver is the safe bet.

u/TheWeedsiah · 1 pointr/minipainting

I first bought this set when i started

Gives you a ton of brushes and you dont have to worry about what happens to them. You will mess them up and learn why. I also think having some cheap sythetics like the ones michaels sells (if in us) is helpful. Synthetic sucks because it doesnt hold much paint but that doesnt mean they cant serve a purpose because they have more spring usually and dont fray at tio as quick. There are several other bruah packs on amazon comprable and maybe better then what i listed. I literally just got my windsor brushes today in mail so i cant comment how much better they are but i know i would have destroyed them if i got them when i started. Its a nice way to reward yourdelf after a few months painting

u/Riboflavin01 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I think I decided to bite the bullet and just get an airbrush. Here is the setup I was looking at:



Just wondering what your thoughts are on this combo and if I need any other adapters/hoses/etc or if these two items will cover it. Also in regards to thinning the Mr. Color paints for the airbrush, what ratio of paint/thinner/leveling thinner should I mix at? (I am in a hot and dry climate)

u/wingsofsarrow · 1 pointr/minipainting

Would This be a good compressor

u/PhillipTang · 1 pointr/buildapc

I bought this air compressor for airbrushing model kits. I was wondering if I could also use it to dust out my PC. It comes with a moisture trap, but I'm not exactly sure how to deliver the air.

My first thought would be to just use my airbrush, assuming it's completely dry (I can run IPA through it to ensure it's dry) and letting the PC dry overnight (just for added safety), would this be a good idea? Or should I buy a cheap airgun instead?

u/BigDKinabox · 1 pointr/minipainting

$65 found this compressor with a tank. Would any of you guys be able to verify that this doesn’t need any adapters to work with an eclipse?

Also has anyone tried the ultra for 100 in comparison to eclipse?

Thanks you guys for getting me pointed in the right direction, there’s an eclipse at Blick right now for $150 and pending any reviews on the ultra I’ll be picking that up!

u/madigital1 · 1 pointr/airbrush

ZENY Pro 1/5 HP Airbrush Air Compressor Airbrushing Kit w/ 3L Tank and 6FT Hose Multipurpose for Hobby Paint Cake Tattoo Nail

Own it myself. External tank and . . . Do I even have to mention the price. Nice unit.

u/Adorable_Admiral · 1 pointr/modelmakers

A lot of airbrush compressors you will find are the same Chinese model that has been rebranded. You won't notice any difference in the amount of air pumped or volume it holds so your best bet is to go with the cheapest option on the market.

u/PeashyKanna · 1 pointr/modelmakers

I use an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS (the gravity feed one, and not the CN knockoff) and it works pretty good. My nozzle clogs up every now and again if I've got my thinning slightly off but otherwise, no major problems yet. I ended up picking up the compressor that was discussed here on the wiki and it works pretty well so far, and it's quiet enough that you can't hear it in the room next door. I live in a townhouse so that was really important for me. As with anything though, see what works for you and read reviews. This Amazon link is the exact one that I bought (and according to honey, its about 30% now than it was a month ago, so good time to buy lol).

u/NecroGi · 1 pointr/minipainting

Beginning Paint Set

Good Beginner Brushes

Palette I still use

This should get you started, the only other thing I'd suggest is getting a black wash (I use citadel paints so I use Nuln Oil, unsure what the technical term for it is). The thing is, I've purchased a ton of stuff. A TON OF STUFF. I never ended up using the Dry Paint set that I got, out of all of the washes I only use two of them on a regular basis and I use expensive brushes now. If you're just starting out it's better to use these synthetic brushes because they're cheaper and you don't have to worry too much if they get ruined. Expensive brushes are great, but you won't know why until you get better.

u/lobsterwithcrabs · 0 pointsr/WarhammerFantasy

I would recommend a battalion as well as an army book.

As for painting, I found it immensely helpful to paint the figures before I clipped them out of their brackets. The only thing would would need to pay attention to there is that you will need to add a small dab of paint to the spot that was attached to the bracket and you will need to know what pieces you are going to use and which you are not going to use. This was useful for me because you have something to hold on to as you paint (especially when detailing). It also allows you to paint areas that would be immensely hard to paint with any degree of detail or accuracy if the piece was already assembled.

Cheap brushes sets with which to paint:
Set 1,
Set 2, Set 3

Cheap Detail Brush: Brush

u/tomqvaxy · 0 pointsr/AskReddit

Professional illustrator here, carry a sketchbook with you, don't sweat materials really but try a softer pencil (You will need to go to at least a Micheal's/HobbyLobby to get these.), I've always enjoyed employing a cheap watercolor set as well just rubberband that shit to your sketchbook, whenever you feel bored bust it out on the train in a waiting room etc, draw what's in front of you fast and poorly just do it, keep quick notes of things you see that you'd like to practise drawing when you have time and actually refer to it use you phone, in that same vein keep an inspiration board pinterest is cheesy but perfect for it really.

TL;DR - Practise practise practise. No shortcuts, sorry. Do it!

ETA - If the watercolor thing strikes your fancy get one of these. They're the tits for on the go.

u/charlie_bites_hard · 0 pointsr/Sneakers
u/andy21aa · 0 pointsr/modelmakers

You really need a decent airbrush, cheap no name knock-off copies will probably put you off airbrushing for life.

The NEO is made for Iwata who make some of the best airbrushes around. Review is here he does raise some issues, but this was written 7 years ago.

u/aftli_work · -1 pointsr/blackmagicfuckery

Don't let your dreams be dreams. About $20 on Amazon.