Best artists drawing media according to redditors

We found 809 Reddit comments discussing the best artists drawing media. We ranked the 462 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Drawing chalk
Drawing charcoals
Drawing inks
Drawing markers
Drawing pastels
Drawing pencils
Drwawing pens

Top Reddit comments about Artists Drawing Media:

u/beanyd91 · 48 pointsr/HelpMeFind
u/clearingpuppy · 24 pointsr/JUSTNOMIL

Make it Noodler's bulletproof.

Once this touches fabric it is never. Ever. Coming out. Not even with bleach. If you want something ruined forever, this will more than do the trick.

u/-PANTSONHEAD- · 19 pointsr/bulletjournal

So I have one of those erasers that's in pencil form, like, it looks like a pencil, but instead of "pencil lead" or whatever, it's an eraser. It gets into tiny spaces to erase small stuff.

Anyway, I've had luck toning down smears like this with these erasers. They have a light grit, so don't press too hard. It might help!

u/errorcache · 17 pointsr/manga

lol I think the same thing every time I see those. It looks like someone ctrl-v'd a generic anime face on the head without bothering to resize it proportionally.

Faber-Castell makes really nice pens though. I use this set.

u/The_edref · 13 pointsr/UniUK

Speakers will make your life so much better. I'd recommend getting a shower speaker too, your flatmates will love you.

A door stop is the right answer.

If you get a memory foam mattress topper your life will be so much better. It makes any bed amazing, and, although they aren't particularly cheap, they can last a very long time. I have this one

Get some good quality pens and books of paper. You don't want the refil pads as they always fall apart sooner or later, get some which have metal binding on one side. For pens I always got a box of these or these. They make the vast amounts of notes you need to take much better.

Don't buy the recommended reading until you have checked how many copies the library has. There's a good chance you'll be able to read them enough without paying for them, or search Bookname.pdf into google and it will probably be there.

Pint glasses are very useful things to have, but I found it added a nice touch to my flat if they were all borrowed from pubs.

get a multipack of playing cards on the cheap from amazon. You'll probably get through a fair few packs in first year. Some poker chips were a nice thing to own as well. In 3rd year I got Cards Against humanity as well, and it is a very good game for predrinks

Get minimum 1 good frying pan, 1 good saucepan, a good wooden chopping board, a good chefs knife, a baking sheet, and a colander.

Get a bottle opener like this one and you will have hours of fun pinging the caps at people

I didn't use mine much in 1st year, but all the other years of uni my bike was a great thing to have. It allows you to shop further away (so cheaper) and reduces your reliance on public transport. It also means you can get out of your area of the city occasionally, which is nice.

A french press means you can make a whole pot of great coffee for your flatmates when you are all getting up after a heavy night, at which point they might crown you or start worshiping you or some shit

u/Meander_ · 11 pointsr/ArtFundamentals

First off, that's so thoughtful!

I'm no expert by any means. I am very much a beginner with not much to show for it, but I got into watercolor in a roundabout way through calligraphy and hand lettering. Now, despite only putting in some months experience, I have poured hours into finding a nice starter set for myself, so hopefully I can shortcut some of this for you.

I respectfully disagree with the other commenters. As convenient as national chain hobby shops are, they are pricey for that convenience, and I rarely find people who know a lot about one thing versus a little about a lot of things. The only exception I've found to this near me is Jerry's Artarama, but that might be different where you are. If I'm in a pinch and I can't wait the two days for shipping, I will only go into a Michaels or Hobby Lobby if I am armed with one of their 40-50% coupons. Even then, 9 times out of 10 it is more expensive than ordering via Amazon for the materials I am looking for. Additionally, since they can only carry so much inventory, I only find (1) the most basic (cheap in price and quality) items or (2) very famous names.

Watercolors can seem very expensive if you're measuring price per mL, but remember that high quality pigments are meant to be diluted with water, and a little bit goes a very long way. Watercolors are also meant to be mixed! Your SO will want to learn about color theory as she goes (tons of great youtube classes on this too), so that also means to start she doesn't need a massive set. So long as she has most of the primaries she will start coming up with all the colors she needs for her project. Additionally, as she gets more into it, she might find that while she likes her set from X brand, she likes the burnt sienna from Y brand, and the french ultramarine from Z brand. Getting tube colors + an empty watercolor tin will give her a strong base to start painting right away but the flexibility to add her own colors piece by piece as she plans more projects and paintings. Also, when tube paints dry in the tin (you can rewet them/reuse them later), they become portable, giving the same convenience of pan sets.

This was my starter set from [calligraphy] ( I love the pigments, but in retrospect I could've gotten by with WAY LESS colors. In retrospect, I should've gotten something like this with a tin. Remember, the tin doubles as a mixing palette. Daniel Smith is a very popular American brand, but surely not the end all be all. Windsor & Newton, English brand, is also popular, and they have a fairly good "student" grade line called Windsor & Newton Cotman where you can save some money but not skimp out on too much quality.

Watercolor is almost exclusively done on paper. Now, since water and paper generally don't mix, you'll be concerned with the "pounds" of the paper. For everyday practice, many watercolorists are comfortable with 140 lbs spiral bound pads of cold press (meaning it's a bit rough in texture, not smooth). I like spiral bound because you can flip through and work on a few different concurrent projects (for the love of god, make sure they're completely dry first though q.q). These will buckle and warp with very heavy water application. Final projects, or anything meant for professional scanning and printing or super heavy wet work, you will probably be buying 200 lbs+ paper as needed. These can be bought in blocks/pads or as single sheets. As the pounds go up, so does the price.

Brushes! These can also get very pricey, but as with the pigments, there may be some sense in it. Higher end brushes are affixed with either natural or synthetic (or a mix) of hairs that (1) hold more water than cheap brushes and (2) keep the hairs from falling out into your paints or painting. I personally use Windsor and Newton brushes, but I don't have a lot of different types yet, and that seems to be fine to learn on. A round brush goes a long way, as you learn to put down a lot of color or very fine lines depending on how much pressure you put on the paper. As a starter set you might get two round brushes in two sizes like a 4 and a 12.

Finally, while there are lots of artists in Art Fundamentals, I might post this specifically in /r/learnart or /r/watercolor for more insight. Most of us here are working on constructional drawing with pen and paper, not necessarily painting.

u/Grave_Girl · 10 pointsr/mildlyinteresting

They still have that sort of thing. You can get them on Amazon, because of course you can.

u/ARbldr · 9 pointsr/fountainpens

Some quick questions, do you write really small now?

Most of the engineers I know do write small, which is why I ask. /u/the_illest does this joke you see here every time this question is asked, but it is a good recommendation to start. I personally recommend the Pilot Metropolitan over the Lamy Safari, I think it is a nicer pen to use, and the I believe the nib is better. If you write fine, you might be better off going to Goulet and getting the new model in fine, than buying the medium nib on Amazon. If you write really small, I really like the Metropolitan with the nib from the Pilot penmanship swapped onto it. The link here is more than I spent on the penmanship, if you search you can find them cheaper (I think on Amazon sometimes, I got two for that price). The Japanese EF nib is closer to a western UEF nib (the medium on the Metro is very close to an EF on the Safari). The line is very thin, and comfortable if you are used to writing small with a mechanical pencil.

With this, pick up a bottle of Noodler's black , and you will be set.

Now, to deviate a little from the standard answers. If you want something a little different, the Nemosine Singularity is an good intro pen that has gotten a lot of good feedback.

For a cheaper alternative, but usually only in a medium nib, the Jinhao x750 or x450 are big pens that make a statement (Amazon has sellers that ship these from China, Goulet pens carries them for $10 in stock).

There are a few others on Amazon that people like in the starting range, Parker, Scheaffer, etc that some like, but generally, the popular ones are the Metropolitan and Safari.

u/Astelan · 8 pointsr/Warhammer40k

As a fellow rookie Tau collector/painter I have to say these look pretty cool but I noticed some of the finer panel lines are a little uneven so I wanted to make a suggestion that saved me alot of time and headaches.

You can buy black pigment liners with a 0.05mm tip that will fit right into those panel lines to let you quickly black them out, giving a nice and crisp edge to the armor panels and other fine details.

The one linked is just one I had from my other hobbies but you can get pigment liners from most craft shop with various colors and tip sizes. The .05 or .03 mm ones are the best, anything larger and you're not gonna fit it in the gaps.

edit: grammar, also sorry I can't post a pic of the results, I'm at work on a slow Sunday :)

u/_Panda · 8 pointsr/fountainpens

My suggestion is to buy a Pilot Metropolitan, which comes with both a cartridge and a converter so you can try both out. I would also suggest getting a bottle of a basic, workhorse ink. Something like Noodler's Black would be a good option, a nice saturated black that is waterproof and behaves pretty well on cheap paper.

u/artomizer · 7 pointsr/SketchDaily

Assuming your microns are the fine liner type and not the brush pens, you should get on the brush pen train!

This one is really nice and popular.

This one is nice too and would be more like what you're used to with the microns, but with a softer tip so you can vary the line weight easily.

I could be wrong, but i'm pretty sure both of these are waterproof. Playing with water soluble ink and a water brush is a lot of fun too and doesn't require much to try out. Something like this (but try to find just one for cheap.. you don't need a bunch) plus random non-waterproof pens you probably have around the house and you're good to go.

u/schmils · 7 pointsr/de

Sieht nach typischen Pigment Linern aus, kann die von Staedtler empfehlen. Das Skizzenbuch sieht nach nem klassischen Moleskine oder Leuchtturm 1917 aus

u/YoungRichKid · 6 pointsr/mechanicalheadpens

Keyboard: WASD 61 Keys with custom cap colors (built on their site)

Headphones: Sennheiser HD 598 SR with open backs.

Pen: Baoer 388 with a medium nib

I want to buy a nicer pen but for right now this one (with Noodler's black ink) works perfectly. I use numbers a lot at work, so I plan on making a separate number pad soon, and I also am probably going to purchase a trackball to place between the keyboard and number pad. The headphones I bought on Prime Day for half their normal price (at the time).

u/browniebiznatch · 6 pointsr/fountainpens

Pilot Metropolitan <F> nib and Noodler's Black. Use a CON-40 or CON-50 converter for the ink as the included converter is more for cleaning than anything

u/GeckoDeLimon · 6 pointsr/shutupandtakemymoney
u/Shenaniganz08 · 6 pointsr/Gunpla

Like any hobby the initial cost to start will always be high. You may be tempted to buy cheaper tools but whats the point if you plan on building Gunpla for a while and will end up replacing them. If you only want to build 1-2 kits then you can get away with 2 dollar clippers and a box cutter but it won't give you good results.

Despite the cost these are still the tools I recommend that EVERY Gunpla owner who doesn't plan on painting their kits purchase

A) Tamiya 74035 Sharp pointed side cutters, worth every penny

B) Xuron 410 Side Cutters, very durable at an affordable cost

C) X-Acto X3000, Comfort rubber grip, comes with 2 blades

D) 3 Fine tipped Gundam Markers, Black, Grey and Brown

E) Krylon Acrylic Flat Coat, large can for only $5-6

And that's it.

  1. Use the Xuron side cutters to cut the part off the runner. Cut on the fat part (the runner) not the thin part next to the part (the gate). This will decrease the stress on the plastic and will maintain the sharp blade on your more expensive Tamiya side cutters.

    2)Use the Tamiya cutters to cut the remaining nub, with practice you can get it practically flush to the part.

    3)Clean up the nub with a hobby knife. You don't need sandpaper or a file if you did the steps above correctly and the flat coat will mask any scratches.

    4)Use the Gundam markers for lining

  2. Apply your sticker (peel one of the corners and then "scoop" and apply it using the hobby knife, no tweezer needed).

    6)Finally finish with a top coat

    Total cost with amazon prime is $65. Yes the Initial cost is high but the tools above will last you for 20+ kits (you will need to buy more blades and flat coat). If you really can't afford that you can save up for the Tamiya sharp pointed side cutters and use the Xurons in the mean time (you will have more work to do).

    So $38-65 initial investment to me is really not that expensive
u/dumbest · 6 pointsr/PenmanshipPorn

These were Faber Castell Pitt pens, 4 pack from Amazon (

u/Halgy · 5 pointsr/moleskine

Get Noodlers ink. The stuff is awesome and doesn't bleed through moleskine paper.

u/yamiyaiba · 5 pointsr/Gundam

Welcome to the hobby, friend! Here's a few useful tidbits of info for you.

None of the Gundam kits from the last 20 or so years need glue. That's a standard feature across pretty much every Gundam model kit. So in that regard, feel free to pick any design you like. Not all kits are created equally, but a quick search across this subreddit will help you figure out if the kit you're looking at happens to be hot garbage (and there are a few that are).

To more directly answer your question, the starter set uses an older model of the classic RX-78-02 Gundam. The Revive version is a much, much better model. You can find it here on Amazon.

A panel lining pen (or pens) are not required, but certainly make for a better final product. They're pretty cheap on their own, and generally you'll want at least grey and black, and possibly also brown. Alternatively, you can get a pack of all 3. You'll also want so basic q-tips/cotton swabs to clean up your panel looking.

You're also going to need some nippers. Nippers come in a range of types, qualities, and styles. The best nippers are single sided (that is, one side is a blade and the other is flat). These, the infamous Godhands are hands down the best nippers on the market. They're expensive as shit, but worth every penny. If you're on a medium budget, Tamiya's nippers are the next best option. There are cheaper nippers out there, but they're gonna come with significantly inferior results. That said, a lot of that can be addressed with...

A good hobby knife. You'll be just fine with a simple, cheap X-Acto knife, but there is (in my opinion) a better option. My personal favorite, the Tamiya Design Knife. It's got a slightly smaller blade, which will let you get into tighter spaces with it. It also comes with a metric crapton of replacement blades. You'll want to replace the blade every couple kits, but there's a bunch of them in there. There same container that holds the replacement blades even has a second chamber to dispose of your old blades into.

Finally, you may want some fine pointed (possibly angled) tweezers for decal application. Finger oils can screw up the adhesive on the stickers. You can pass on this starting off most likely, but you'll want to get some eventually.

TL;DR, the starter pack isn't the best option. If you're after the granddaddy Gundam, get the Revive. Otherwise, pick your favorite design. The newer the kit, the better, generally speaking. Look at the copyright date on the box cover to see. Bottom left corner.

You're going to need nippers, which can get pricey, but the cost is worth it. Start with a mediocre pair, and upgrade to the Godhands once you're committed to the hobby. You'll need a knife, too. You can cheap out on this one, but there are better options IMO.

Optionally, get tweezers, panel lining pens, and cotton swabs.

Edit: other good starter kits

HG Barbatos is a great kit. The build process for IBO models is a bit different than other gunpla, though, as they have a quasi-inner frame.

HG 00 Gundam is another great starter. It's also the first kit I ever panel lined, and it was a great starter for that.

If you're wanting a Zaku, the HG The Origin Zaku II Type C is probably the best Zaku kit released to date in 1/144 scale.

Finally, I'd feel bad for not suggesting my all time favorite HG build. It was just a fun, fun kit to make and to pose. The HG 1.5 Gundam. It's got some really cool gimmicks and, unique colors, and an awesome design.

u/mca62511 · 5 pointsr/LearnJapanese

> I'm also looking to match the brush strokes without investing in a brush haha.

Most Japanese people write Japanese using the same shitty pencils and pens everyone else does all over the world. You don't really use a brush or fude pen unless you're doing calligraphy.

u/OccamsBroadsword · 5 pointsr/funny

It was not the Mandela Effect. They were introduced in 1949, and changed in 1962. (Trust me, they have a whole interactive museum in this town, we know Crayola.) That said, I do also remember using "flesh" crayons, but my grandmother kept many old boxes around.

There is indeed also a box of multiethnic skin tones--you can get it here, for instance.

u/drzowie · 5 pointsr/InkPorn

If you're using a fountain pen, go with Noodler's Bulletproof Black. Amazon UK has it for under 20 quid, and it's both free-flowing and permanent.

If you're using a dip pen, basic black ink is less expensive. IIRC, I've used Senshi (their top item) and it worked OK. I grew up using Speedball Super Black India Ink, which is listed on that page for under £9. Most of those are for dip pens only, and not suitable for fountain pens.

u/shelby8959 · 5 pointsr/nextfuckinglevel

for those wondering this is the markers used in the video

edit: they are out of stock

u/anyone_or_anything · 4 pointsr/ofcoursethatsathing

Here is a link to pens like that, they are currently out of stock tho...

u/Blusttoy · 4 pointsr/Gunpla

If you wish to use markers for panel lining, you will want a fine tip pen such as:

u/wohdinhel · 4 pointsr/LearnJapanese

Well, if you're looking specifically to learn how to read real-life handwriting out in the real world, there is no "font" that will help you. What you should instead focus on is learning how characters are actually written, because handwriting is a very fluid and living thing, especially in a script like Japanese. I've written a considerable amount about this issue on this very sub in the past, but it basically boils down to this simple fact: having an intimate knowledge of how kana and kanji components are written will help you read natural handwriting considerably. Specifically, this means understanding the stroke order and general form of these characters. For kanji, this doesn't necessarily mean you have to memorize the precise stroke order of every character you learn; instead, what you need to be able to do is mentally break characters down into "component radicals". What I would suggest doing is looking into getting a good fude pen and start practicing writing hiragana, katakana and kanji radicals BY THEIR STROKE ORDER, and really play around with writing them as smoothly and gracefully as possible without worrying about how "correct" they look according to whatever diagram you're looking at. With a fude pen, you have the added benefit of being able to easily see how strokes can "slur" together, which is an enormous part of Japanese handwriting and is kind of on its own a hurdle to overcome in terms of being able to read the writing system.

Chinese handwriting, interestingly enough, tends to be much more intensely hard to decipher. This is partly because Chinese people only have the option of writing in hanzi (kanji), so they have developed a much wider array of "shorthand" forms for characters/radicals that speed up the process of handwriting, whereas Japanese can be written primarily with hiragana, which is much faster to write.

Now, if we're talking about something like this, then forget about it - no one is expected to be able to read that shit.

u/SeiJai · 4 pointsr/Gunpla

I bought a [Tamiya tool set] ( like a decade a ago and I still use the side cutter and blade. I am not use to hobby knives, so I cut the nub far from the piece and then use the slide knife in that set to remove the remaining nub. I'm just more comfortable with that than I am with hobby knives. And then if there are still white stress marks, run over it with your fingernail. It works, don't know the chemistry or physics behind it. Get a [gundam marker lining pen thing] ( You can use other fine tipped marker, different colors, etc, but your mileage may vary.

u/HornPointBaragon · 4 pointsr/funkopop
u/celeryroot · 3 pointsr/Watercolor

$100 will get you pretty far! obligatory ymmv, a lot of supplies depend on what and how you paint (do you paint large or small? do you paint outside a lot and need a travel kit? and so on), etc, etc, but here is how i would spend the money:

  • paints

    kuretake gansai tanbi, 36 color set - the best set of watercolors i have used and relatively cheap, the colors are vibrant, mix well, and set beautifully.

  • paper

    probably where most of the money should go after upgrading your paints. i like the strathmore 500 series and the canson papers for sketching and learning. other higher end brands that are recommended a lot are arches, bee paper, and fluid 100. definitely try out both hot press and cold press, people usually develop a preference but one is not necessarily better than the other.

  • brushes

    honestly, brushes are not that important as long as they are not frayed or shedding. i've seen tons of professionals use and recommend this cheap set by grace art. i also like the princeton neptune brushes.

  • extras

    if you still have money left, i would suggest trying something cool like metallic and pearlescent paints if it interests you. or use the money towards other mediums if you want to branch out.
u/Tipsy_Gnostalgic · 3 pointsr/The_Donald

The left won the culture war and are widespread in universities and public schools. The indoctrination starts early, they show you videos about inclusivity. Then you are taught about the history of racism in America, slavery, Jim Crow, and the impressionable children are told it was all the fault of the white man (even though slavery was practiced in countless other cultures). Guilt is imposed on the child and they are told that the evil conservatives are to blame. The right is stereotyped as being made of bible thumping rednecks who would lynch blacks if given the chance. In high school, I remember that conservative was synonymous with evil.

Likewise, progressivism is associated as all that is good in the world. So if you oppose any progressive law, it can't be for moral reasons, since it is already established that the left is the only moral party. Therefore they must be racist/sexist/whateverist. It only gets worse in college, where students are taught about privilege, sexual objectification, and all that other bullshit. I remember in one of my undergrad chemistry classes we spent about 10-15 minutes listening to the professor lecture about how Watson and Crick stole the idea of the double helix from a woman, Rosalind Franklin. This disease has spread far and deep, but thankfully people are starting to wake up.

u/michaelmikeymike · 3 pointsr/drawing

Pentel Fude Brush Pen, Medium (XFL2L)

Pentel Arts Portable Pocket Brush Pen (Medium Point), 1Pen & 2Refills

u/SmallDoesStuff · 3 pointsr/characterdrawing

Buy the cheapest, thickest sketchbook you can, (in the UK, I'd hit up The Works)and some pens, ballpoint maybe, preferably fineliners, like these bad boys, then fill it up.

There are tons of resources available.

Some tips I have picked up:

Start with perspective, simple one-point perspective and a bunch of boxes ( try this place ), and just fill sketchbooks up.

Split your drawing time into practice and personal, still draw stuff you love, but make time to just practice. Noone else will see the results, it's just for you to learn how things look.

Use reference, not tracing if you can avoid it, as much as you can. Learn what things actually look like, how bits of the body fit together and work. Draw what you see, not how you think things look.

Try and find others who are learning too and learn together, even just posting stuff online for advice.

*From the last one, try and see advice as positive, noone is perfect and (other then the occasional twat), use what they have said to get better :)

Sorry for the wall of random stuff, I'm still early in my journey too and these are the tips I keep hearing again and again. Good luck!! Can't wait to see what you come up with in the future.

u/hennell · 3 pointsr/graphic_design

I really like these artist pens have some in black and some in grey. Feels more authoritative then pencil and you can get a nice sense of tone with the greys.

u/Thjoth · 3 pointsr/guns

My Lamy Safari is getting quite worn out. I've had it for years and it's been riding around in my pocket the entire time. Switching back to writing in cursive with that pen made it so that I can actually somewhat keep up with notes without developing horrifying writer's cramp.

A large portion of the black coating is gone off of the wire clip, it no longer retains in the cap like it should, and I've had to replace the nib where it got loose in my pocket and got crushed. Still love the thing, though. In the end, it's wound up saving me money, because the $40 I spent on the pen, a bottle of ink, plunger insert, and replacement nib is all I've spent on writing implements in the last 3 years or so, whereas before, I was going through multiple G2 gel pens a month.

I have no idea why that caused me to go off onto such a tangent. I guess I'm just attached to that pen. I use Noodler's Bulletproof Black Ink in mine, by the way.

EDIT: Why not get that USP in .45 ACP, by the way? I think I would have gone with .45 instead. I already have half a dozen handguns in 9mm, though, so maybe it's just saturation on my part.

u/ImmovableMover · 3 pointsr/pens

Okay, sweet. So, one of the cool things about fountain pens is their customization to how you want to write. Do you like writing small and precise? Get an EF or F nib. Do you like cursive-looking writing? Get an italic nub. Do you like sexy line variation? Get a flex nib.

My point is that I would get one of the two most recommended starter fountain pens so that you won't be stuck with an experience you don't like having spent $50 on a design or nib size that doesn't suit you: the Lamy Safari or the Pilot Metropolitan. After the first few pens, you'll have an idea of what you really like in a fountain pen. These pens are both inexpensive, relatively high build quality, and nice writers. I started with a Lamy Safari EF as my first pen and I still use is regularly because it is a nice pen, despite it being inexpensive. But I think you can look around Youtube or Google some reviews on the two and see which one looks more appealing to you. I personally recommend the Lamy Safari because it has a "tripod" grip that helps beginners position the pen so that the nib is in the right orientation. See the Safari here. The Metropolitan is also a nice pen. So again, whatever you think looks cooler.

Fountain pens can be refilled through disposable cartridges or through filling mechanisms that take up ink from a bottle.

My first bottle of ink was Noodler's Black.

And to refill the Safari, I had to buy a converter.

I started using fountain pens around 5 or so months ago, and my bottle of the same ink is still going strong. (Although I have bought tons more other colors. :D).

I wrote a slightly more extensive "beginner fountain pen guide and why you should use fountain pens" comment on another post, and I'll link that here if you want to read it.

u/ofsinope · 3 pointsr/math

This is what I did in college. I used bathtub crayons to write on it. They also work great on mirrors and windows (and bathtubs).

u/MrMooMooDandy · 3 pointsr/Austin

Online, the ink I use is on Amazon so I just get it there in recent years.

u/Comin_Up_Thrillho · 3 pointsr/Watercolor

Thanks! The lines were done with XS Faber-Castell, which utilize India Ink. I love their pens :)

Edit: This is the set I use

u/breatheasy14 · 3 pointsr/daddit

They are called "Color My Bath" and we got them off We also got some Crayola bath crayons and bath paint off as well. All really fun things to do in the tub and it all washes away easily. The crayons can be completely submerged and they will still work great.

Edit: here is the link

u/MG_Sazabi_Main · 3 pointsr/Gunpla

I recommend taking a trip down to a local hobby store that sells gunpla- I've found that (at least for mine) it's usually cheaper and can have kits that aren't available online. You can also improve your build with some panel lining- using one of these (or a marker of your choice) along lines in the design to make it look as though 2 panels are separated.

u/550g · 3 pointsr/Watercolor

watercolors LINK

we starting to use it in art schools and continue to use them in art academy. they really are good. no need to dig deeper in more expensive, pro watercolors.

fancy watercolors (i personally love them, but really, basically fo fun, mixed media) LINK

watercolor pad LINK

that's my choice. would highly recommend this producer, really great absorption, thick paper, different formats available. anyway, it's really good.

brushes is really very personal choice, depends on technic and such. I like this one LINK great for miniature work. You can look for some squirrel hair brushes in local store orLINK , they are good for starters and for wet painting.

EDIT. fanart sample where all those stuff used at once :P

u/KujoWanKenobi · 3 pointsr/transformers
u/jebus_cripes · 3 pointsr/adventuretime

I have some of these. You can get them at any store like Meijer, Target, Kmart, etc. I took these to a fancy hotel and left the housekeeping drawings on the shower wall.

Edit: Crayons!

u/kur1j · 3 pointsr/fountainpens

Any of the inks that are considered "bulletproof" from Noodler's (Noodler's black, 54th Mass. etc.) will not smear (unless they haven't dried). Once a bulletproof black is on some cellulose material (e.g. paper, fibers) it is there for good.

u/CriticalityIncident · 3 pointsr/fountainpens

Noodler's Black is fairly well known for being bleed resistant:

For bleed through I've found that higher quality paper helps more than different inks. I like these A5 Clairefontaines:

u/Not-an-alt-account · 3 pointsr/learntodraw

Staedtler Pigment Liner I believe is what is being used.

Edit: Kiket to liner.

u/piuch · 3 pointsr/learnart

If you don't want to mess around with ink, I'd recommend the Faber-Castell Pitt Artist Pens.

u/neverenoughblank · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

I love this idea of an alphabetical contest series :)

Dr. Ph. Martin's India Inks so I can write colorful calligraphy :)


Decodyne™ Fruit Infused Water Bottle so I can make really tasty water! I drink 3 L a day so it gets a little boring :)

Do we need a raffle phrase?

u/Genki79 · 2 pointsr/LearnJapanese

Generally I would recommend a pen with a finer point to allow you to write characters with many strokes. Now that said it would depend on how big you plan to write? On just normal lined paper use whatever feels good to you and a price you can accept. Most people just use the average ball point/gel ink/roller ball or the like for everyday writing.

Check out if you want some Japanese writing instruments and stationary. Many of the products you can buy on amazon as well but this will give you a place to look around. You can find pens with much finer points such as the Pilot Hi-Tec-C .25mm.

*** Sorry I made this a bit long, I am bored at work and just went to town with this. It also addresses if you decide you want to find something that can do calligraphy as well.

If you come to a point you want to try something that can offer line variation there are brush pens and fountain pens. These also range from cheap to pretty expensive. A low cost brush pen I would recommend is the Kuretake No 8 just to see if it is something you would like. It is a synthetic hair brush that you cannot refill but should cost only about 8-9$ or so. If you want to step up a bit to something you can refill the the No 13 is a good choice. I use the Kuretake No 50 as it uses a natural hair for the brush. I find you can get finer lines and can write pretty damn small with it if you choose. Also looks and feels higher quality over all. But you can buy the natural hair refill for this pen and it will fit in the No 13 as well. Just FYI for anyone that wants to try a natural hair and may already have a No 13.

Another option is to use a fountain pen, which Japan is very well known for too. Brands such as Pilot/Namiki, Sailor, Pelikan and Nakaya/Platnium. Nibs on Japanese pens are finer than western. So a Fine nib on a JP would be more like an extra fine on something western. If you want to try your hand on this route then a Pilot Metropolitan would be a decent start. Your quality of paper will matter with a fountain pen. The average stuff you get in the US will probably feather pretty bad. Japanese paper is generally much better quality and safe to use with a fountain pen. Also a good brand such as Clairefontaine/Rhodia. The sustainable earth notebooks from staples are not too bad as a cheap locally found option. Now this pen's nib will not flex, if you want to try a low cost option for that there is the noodler's ahab. This will flex on down strokes to give a wider line and it will take practice to use well like a brush pen.

Lastly another curious fountain pen used for writing Kanji is the type of calligraphy nib that is bent to allow line variation depending on the angle used. Such as salior's "fude de mannen." I have one but prefer a flex nib fountain and brush pen myself.

Quick example of a fountain and brush pen.

u/o0BlackDragon0o · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

Looks great! I recommend getting a panel line marker, they are so cheap but make such a massive difference to a kit. Welcome to the hobby :)

u/Stug_lyfe · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

Gives more of a natural look on light colored armor plates, black gives more of a classic cartoon look. Brown is used for warm colors and sometimes zeon/zaft/etc suits. You are looking for something called a "fine tip gundam marker", You can get them online. There is also something called "panel line accent" which is applied with a brush and some people feel gives a more natural look, I would reccomend starting with the marker, as its easier to learn with. Keep a qtip around when using it incase your hand slips. any residue clears up with a bit of rubbing alchohol, dont use nail polish remover, it can melt plastic.

If you are going for 30 dollar tamiyas just drop the extra 5 dollars and get these, they come with free shipping on your whole order and tax free.

They also carry sanding sticks

u/artexhale · 2 pointsr/IDAP

Thank u :3
I don’t erase the guide lines, this drawing was done without an eraser or ruler. I’m trying to play with pencils’ tonality. As an example first I draw the outline with a HB, if I do some mistakes I go over it with B or press harder on the HB.
When I’m doing a non technical drawing and I need an outline I do a basic pencil sketch and the trace it.
The red pencil idea is good if u plan to process ur work digitally.
Also u can use different types of erasers, there are some that look like a pencil ( ) or are soft like dough ( )so u can mold it as u wish to get more precision.
Overall, with time u won’t need an eraser.

u/Eva_H · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

You're a painter! Do you have a dA page or blog? I paint as well, but mostly on masonite.

Mine's a sketch book but I'm going to the art supply store tomorrow and probably buying one there. I also have a set of tinted charcoal and some eraser pencils marked as high priorioty. I do lots of portraits.

u/acidentalmispelling · 2 pointsr/DnD

You know what, that's actually a good map! It's pretty clear and represents a good start.

/r/mapmaking is a good place to look around, and there's even helpful threads popping up all the time. If you decide to get more serious about making maps, I'd recommend a Wacom tablet for drawing on a computer. You can use free tools like GIMP or Krita. Of course you can use a mouse with these, but pen & tablet is easier.

If sticking to regular paper, get something like these. Good pens of different thicknesses. If you can express terrain using only "textures" in black & white (here is an example I found on /r/mapmaking), you can really make it pop once you start adding color!

Biggest tip is to just keep at it. And don't be afraid to re-do things over and over to try out different styles.

u/minigeko · 2 pointsr/DDLC
u/eadenoth · 2 pointsr/DnD

For the major borders I used a Medium .7mm and for the stairs and fine details, as well as the crosshatched border a Small .3mm

I use Faber-Castell artist pens. Go through them fairly fast but they give me awesome lines. I just wish the Medium .7mm was actually a .8mm hhahaaha

Here is a link:

u/penguin055 · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

Was the one you bought by any chance this set? If it's that set, or one that looks like it, then all of the bigger markers are mainly for detail painting. The smaller one is intended for panel lining, but I'd suggest at least getting a black lining marker too, since gray is too light for many colors.

u/crazypipo · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

If I plan on painting the kit, I cut every pieces out so that I can paint them all at once. However, I organize pieces into sections - L/R legs, L/R arms and so on. When I paint, each section goes on their on tray to prevent confusion. I have been building long enough that, even if I mix the parts together, I should be able to find what I need.

I try not to mix PG parts though. That's like finding that one piece you need in a pile of Lego.


>cheap clippers to cut from the runner and then to try and cut closer to the part.

That's the cause of your problem. You should be using a sharp nipper and cut further away to the piece, then shave it down with a very sharp hobby knife or, if the gate is thin enough, cut against the piece with your nipper.


It is possible to polish the part with sanding only, however, it will take a lot of time and quite a bit of sand papers. Here is how I often hide my sanding

  • Cover it with Real Touch Markers or Gundam Markersand wipe off excess with cotton swaps. This is not a 'pro' method, but it works like a charm and takes almost no time. I only do this to my unpainted kits.

  • Primer/Surfacer. After I sand the entire piece with some fine grid sanding papers, I wash them to get all the residues. After the piece dry, I prime it with my Mr. Surfacer 1200, let it cure, then paint.

u/synesthesiatic · 2 pointsr/learnart

Rubbing alcohol - I have no idea! I think it does break down the colours but USE IT GENTLY because you can bleed right through paper if you're not careful. My mom showed me how to do this when I was young and just learning how to use Prismacolours.

Generally when needing to fill something with solid colours I'll use a circular motion for even coverage rather than line-shaped strokes, but yeah, that's basically the idea.

Currently the lighting on the picture is kind of undefined - you have shadows underneath things, but light plays in strange ways and reflected / refracted light also does weird stuff. This tutorial kinda explains things better than I can: - Basically, you want to think about where your primary light source is, how the material you're colouring will interact with that light, and then the shape of what you're colouring. Rimlight is the white around the edges of say, Lugia's wings.

I will recommend these watercolour sets because I LOVE them: Used them for years. They're student grade but I love how they work. Make sure you're using sturdy paper!

I am using these watercolours currently: They're flipping fantastic, if not a bit more expensive.

LMK if you have more questions / need more clarification. :D

u/fartbringer · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

I use these:

I use a black for parts that are molded in a dark color, and a grey for things that are much lighter. They're really easy to use, and you don't have to be precise with them. Keep some q-tips and a bit of rubbing alcohol handy, though. Just set the ink into the panel line in as many passes as you fee is needed. Let it dry for just a little bit, then gently flick over the line using the q-tip. Don't even push down that hard, just gently stroke over the area. This will help spread ink away from the line, if not pick it up entirely. Any excess can be rubbed off using another q-tip with a very modest amount of rubbing alcohol on it. It'll come right up and leave your lines filled.

There's a lot of tutorials on youtube, and various methods (I've heard a lot that panel washing works best, but haven't tried it), but that's how I do mine and I'm pleased with the results.

I would suggest buying a really cheap HG kit that you can screw around on, test a bunch of different techniques and see what works best for you. That way if you totally screw up you won't be out of a lot of money.

edit: Also, there's alternatives to these pens. I used some sakura microns I had laying around on my first HG and it looked good, but buying a set of those is going to be more expensive in the long run than getting gundam pens. I've seen some individual very fine point pens at Michaels for about a buck or two, but I've not yet tried them. They seem like they can get the job done, though.

u/Oncotic · 2 pointsr/fountainpens

My experience with inks is pretty limited, I hope others will help me out with suggestions. I use Private Reserve DC Supershow Blue, which is a full, darkish blue. My uncle recommended it to me because it is easy to clean and it is easy to restart pens that have dried up using a drop of water. HOWEVER, it has no water resistance whatsoever, so if you expect your notes to come in contact with water (aka rain), they will smear badly. Inks like a Noodler's Bulletproof Black are great if you want your notes to last a long time. However, I haven't used a bulletproof ink before, but I know they smell.

u/wittenwitten · 2 pointsr/SketchDaily

its the tombow "fudenoske" brushpen, i order them from amazon here. its meant for caligraphy but i find it really good for linework, would recommend!

u/Batgirl_III · 2 pointsr/gaslandsplayers

Panel lining. Use a very fine-tip paint marker, like this; brush on inks; or even really, really, really thinned down paints. Use it to pick out the separations between the toy vehicle's molded in body panels, hatches, and doors. Really helps make them "pop."

u/ChiChiBoobie · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

the duck is alive

art makes me pretty happy these days 🎨

u/wanndann · 2 pointsr/de

Pinselstifte brauchen normalerweise keine Tusche oder Tinte mehr.

u/shelikesfish · 2 pointsr/drawing

Sorry, I tried to link it, but it didn’t work. Let me try again: here!

u/maxjooce · 2 pointsr/bulletjournal

I currently use kuretake watercolors with these brush pens and I think they’re pretty solid. It’s not a huge investment and I think they’re a good starter pack for casual water colorists.

I highly also recommend clipping your pages and having maybe a hair dryer handy so your pages don’t warp from getting too wet.

u/Aztecka2016 · 2 pointsr/ArtistLounge

Have you ever heard of brush pens? they're like fountain pen where it has ink cartridges but the nib is a brush. Depending on how hard you push on the pen the the thicker the lines you make. Theres one that have hair and others are felt tip pen(like copic markers) I've been using them more recently in my drawings and its really fun. Here is an example from Amazon

And here it is in action

And is a new website I've recently been introduce to and it has a wide variety of pens for drawing and calligraphy

u/raineykatz · 2 pointsr/whatisthisthing

It might not be a colored pencil. Might be an eraser pencil

u/zackiedude · 2 pointsr/ArtistLounge

I think they're a great starter kit. You get a wide variety of colors. The problem with them is that there are mixed opacities -- sometimes two colors right next to each other on the color wheel might be different. One green could be opaque, one could be transparent.

I used them exclusively as my travel palette until I started to build out my collection of professional colors.

My absolutely favorite "set" is the Kuretake Gansai Tambi set ($29 on Amazon). Keep in mind, these are Japanese style, so they will be richer in color, but I absolutely love how brilliant everything is. This was definitely my workhorse at home while I was building out my professionals... but truth be told, sometimes I still go back to these because I love them so much.


EDIT: Adding some links to works myself and my sister-in-law have done with them, so you can see the richness.





u/ThisIsWhatICarry · 2 pointsr/AskMen

> Last year my mom passed down a Lamy Safari that was completely destroyed and after trying and failing to get it to work, I resigned myself to my good ol' cheap gel pens. But this post pretty much re-ignited my interest. Right now my Amazon cart has a universal cartridge, a Jinhao x750 in black night sky, zebra g nibs, and Diamine ink. So thanks for that :p

Speaking as someone who's recently done the same thing with calligraphy, I'm happy to help you do so. Except for the hit to your pocketbook, of course. ;-) I've heard decent things about Jinhao. Apparently they are very good for their price, but being a "cheap chinese knockoff", are more susceptible to defective units. Make sure you order from a reputable seller who will allow you to return it if it fails, but hopefully it won't. A nice thing about some Jinhao pens is that the nibs are replaceable with many #6 nibs, so you have some options there.

> I decided to go for the diamine because it was cheap and only 30ml, so if this is something that I actually really like (I print pretty small, my 0.4mm gel pens have become my holy grail, so I can be pretty picky about this stuff) I'll spring for the Iroshizuku and Noodler inks I've fallen in love with.

I've heard excellent things about Diamine ink. I ordered some Diamine Oxblood because I wanted something that looked like dried blood, and Diamine Majestic Blue because OH MY GOD look at those colors. Yes, that's just one ink being used: it goes from blue to red as you apply more ink. That's some magic ink, there. (This is called "sheening".) I'll be ordering some Noodler's Black Swan in Australian Roses (again with the glorious names!), J. Herbin Emerald of Chivor 1670 Anniversary Ink and Rohrer & Klingner Alt-Goldgrun (Old Golden Green) because they perform similarly. The Noodler's ink is definitely the most cost-effective, but you can order a sample kit of sheening inks from Goulet if you aren't sure which you want.

> I've also been lusting over water brush pens... anything you can tell me about those?

I'm afraid I don't know much about the brush pens as yet. I've used some micron brush pens before, but never one supporting fountain pen inks. That said, I plan to get back into it. There is an artist named Kevin Eslinger that does some utterly amazing work with Dr. Ph. Martin's Bombay India Ink. He basically paints like you would with watercolor paint, and then blows on the fresh ink through a straw, making those cool blown/dripped patterns you see. I bought some of the ink and some traditional brushes, but I'm also looking into some brush fountain pens as well. Noodler's and Platinum both have some that I've been eyeing.

u/LaTraLaTrill · 2 pointsr/Oilpastel

While your experimenting, try out the brand Pentel Arts. You can get a box of 50 for under $5 through Amazon prime. They are student quality. After you get a taste and opinion of what that set is lacking, research professional grade.

Edit: link to Amazon- Pentel Arts Oil Pastels, 50 Color Set (PHN-50)

u/Carnivorious · 2 pointsr/drawing

I have this set and it is amazing.

I also use Pentel brushes to ink my drawings (brushes like these) though I don't know if they come in different shades of black and grey?

If you'd like to see the result of a combination of both pens/brushes, take a look at one of my drawings.

u/MissBananaBeak · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

I'll add to this as I find things!

For both of them:

I'm aiming for both of them in these because summer is coming! You mentioned not really having a yard so these could be "park only" toys. Stuff to get them outside and keep them active during summer break!

WOWmazing Kit (3-Piece Set) | Incl. Big Bubble Wand, Giant Bubble Concentrate and Tips & Trick Booklet | Outdoor Toy for Kids, Boys, Girls | Bubbles Made in the USA

[Huge Rainbow Kite For Kids - One Of The Best Selling Toys For Outdoor Games Activities - Good Plan For Memorable Summer Fun - This Magic Kit Comes w/ 100% Satisfaction] ( - there are SOOO many shapes and things to choose from on Amazon when it comes to kites!

These are for both of them as well since they both enjoy art ❤️

I recently did one of these Diamond art things, it's time consuming and relaxing! There are quite a few other designs to choose from as well!

I was gifted these and they are amazing! If a mistake is made it's super easy to fix it because these are so flexable!

And this or something similar because Rylee enjoys singing

u/dylan227 · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

You might want to get a black thin tip gundam marker to fill in the lines. Other tools that are helpful are a pair of side cutters for cutting parts off the runners, and some x-acto knifes and sandpaper to get rid of the nubs left from cutting the pieces out. I usually use 800+ grit. A flat top coat can be sprayed on to remove the shine from the kit, and give it a more model like look than something that looks like a toy. Hope this is helpful!

u/Jesse_berger · 2 pointsr/fountainpens

The paper makes the experience and for the time being this will treat you nicely. You can get a 5 pack for three dollars at most Target.

If you can justify the price Rhodia and Clairefontaine makes excellent paper.

Ink:This is a well behaved ink that will work great on any paper.

Waterman is a nice ink sold on Amazon, I have inspired blue and it's excellent and a lot of fun.

The folks here will suggest all different kinds of ink, enjoy your new pen and try not to get addicted like me!

u/Kisaoda · 2 pointsr/drawing

I appreciate your comment, truly. I can somewhat relate to you, as I was very much into art back in High School, but quickly gave up on it due to anxiety and low self-esteem. There was a good ten-year hiatus before I began to pick the pencil up again this earlier this year.

I suggest starting small. I challenged myself to draw all 151 of the first generation of Pokemon on post-it notes. You can see some of them in my submission history if you're curious. It sounds silly, but that's what I had available to me at work, and I could usually spit one out after working on them on breaks and lunches. I tried to do one a day. The more I worked on them, the more I began to get my confidence back. Once they were done, I had an immense sense of fulfillment and accomplishment.

You don't have to do something that intense, but I found that setting smaller goals first, and seeing them through, was what helped, even if I wasn't pleased with some of the small things. It was only after these that I had the courage to try something bigger and more complex, like the helmets I've done.

Practically speaking, get yourself a few tools of the trade. I use a mix of .7 and .3 mechanical pencils, with HB graphite for the former and B lead for the latter. I also use eraser pencils to get fine erase lines for detail, and smudging sticks to blend.

Sorry. I know this was probably more word vomit than you may have expected or wanted. Your comment just struck a similar chord to my own experience. That said, just start small, and realize that all of the tiny mistakes you see in your work are mistakes that, for the most part, only you can see. Everyone else will just see a work of art, and enjoy it for what it is. Trust me. That was my largest hurdle. You can do it too.

Good luck. :)

u/anathemas · 2 pointsr/Coloring

I have the same problem I think. For me, it doesn't really flake off though, it kind of smears off. Also, it happens with some colors and not others — usually really pigmented ones. People say light layers help, but some colors seem impossible to me; Dahlia and Peacock Blue come to mind.

For a wax pencil, I personally prefer Derwent Coloursoft — the color stays where I put it, no matter how pigmented, and I'm not stuck with having to do light layers.

My favorite is Polychromos, which are oil-based. They're very high quality and not cheap, so after buying a lot of pencils, I went with the option to buy the 60 pack with a free sharpenert (works better than my hand crank one tbh) on Amazon, and got the individual colors I wanted from Dick Blick - the 60 pack comes with a booklet containing all of their colors, and there are swatches on the Dick Blick website, which made it easy.

Also, I just got the Arteza 60 pack gel pens which are around $20 and work really, really well. Gelly roll are considered top of the line, and although I have a set of their whites that I love and some colors, they're quite expensive, and the tip is very thick, so I prefer others for coloring most of the time.

Here are some things I always recommend to new colorists that will work with any brand —

Derwent burnishers, blenders, vinyl eraser and sharpener

Derwent electric eraser

Faber-Castel Eraser Pencils

[BTSKY cases] ( there are lots of other sizes/styles/materials, but I think the book style is the easiest way to organize pencils.

u/GalactusIntolerant · 2 pointsr/fountainpens

Noodlers Bulletproof black has a pretty big following. I use it myself and it perfectly fits my ink needs. They also sell other inks that people seem to enjoy, but I personally have no experience with them.

u/ItsMopy · 2 pointsr/learntodraw

Gotcha, in that case, here's a few well worth adding to any collection if it's not too late:

Bic Soft Feel Medium Easy to control when pushing softly, reliable ink flow. Great for light lines and construction. The tip does displace by about a mm when you press hard, so it makes dark lines more difficult to reliably create.

Zebra Z-Grip Max Harder to control for lighter lines as the ink flows a little too well. The tip has no displacement though, which means darker lines are much easier to create reliably compared to the bic.

Zebra Z-Grip Flight aka Z-Grip Smooth in the UK. Similar to the Max, no nib displacement, but the ink flows so freely, this is not something to be used for light construction. Very smooth if you like that sort of thing.

The cheap crystal and disposable ballpoints you find all around are OK, but the ink flow is unreliable. On rough paper, they generally have stable nibs and can produce almost pencil-like lines, but they stop and start working so often, it can be annoying.

Non-Ballpoint honorable mentions:

Pilot Hi-Tec C 0.3 - Free flowing hybrid pen. No variation in line-weight, and no going back. Unforgiving but fun when you're searching for ideas and not caring about the final quality.

Pilot G-Tec C4 0.4 - As above, but the 0.1mm difference is significant. Usually used to add line weight to sketches done in the 0.3.

Staedler Pigment Liners - Unfortunately mistaken to be 'markers' because people keep calling them that. Smooth and reliable ink flow with the hard nib. Much thicker and less scratchy than the Hi-Tecs, and far less forgiving. Worth getting a whole set as preferences will vary and the size difference between each is significant. Restrictive as they don't work well at shallow angles, but on the plus side, you can marker over them.

Most importantly, if you're going to be drawing using ballpoints, make sure to accompany it with toothy/rough paper. The paper is 80% of it imo. Smooth stuff just doesn't cut it with ballpoints if you want a consistently high level of control over line weights.

There are lots more of course, but these are my experiences so far.

Good luck!

u/Rybos · 2 pointsr/EDC

How about a nice pen? Have you ever used a fountain pen?

This pen is great. I have one with a silver trim. I've had many a fountain pen, and this is still my favorite, even more so than pens that cost me twice as much. Feels good, looks good, made very well, writes well. Just don't drop it. It will break. That's the only downside for me. However, I've broken mine 3 times, and epoxied it back together and polished it up each time.

When you start using a FP, paper becomes important too. Cheap paper and some fancy notebook brands (i.e moleskine) are horrible for fountain pens. Ink will bleed and spider on the page. I'd suggest looking at this brand of paper. They're cheap(er than moleskine), look good, and take fountain pen ink super well.

You'll need some ink too. I'd suggest starting with something from Noodler's ink lke this. Some FP inks are waterproof, some are not. Bulletproof, iron gall, or pigmented inks are usually water proof.

I know that probably puts you closer to $100, but imo, it's worth it if that's something that interests you.

u/Zediac · 2 pointsr/fountainpens

Noodler's Ink black. Item number 19001. I use the pen at work so I have to keep things simple and professional. I'd prefer a nice dark blue, but, eh. It's for my paperwork.

I like your handwriting. Mine is still sloppy but I'm working on it.

If cleaning doesn't work then I'll try the soap trick. Thanks.

u/bundle05 · 2 pointsr/Art

Thanks, I'm glad you like it. Lately I've been making adjustments to my style in order to be a bit more economical. Particularly with the use of line so that I don't need to rely quite so heavily on color in order to add dimension. You can compare it to my current portfolio.

[This] ( is the pen I used for my lines. The color was added in Photoshop.

u/grumpyprincesskitten · 2 pointsr/littlespace

I have these

Masking fluid is used to cover the spots you want to keep white in a painting. You put the masking fluid on those spots and once its dry you can paint over it then when the paint is dry again you rub off the masked bits with an eraser and TA DA! It’s really cool!

u/LadyJuggernaut · 2 pointsr/Art

Inks. Go play with these inks. You'll get way more contrast and enjoy the intense colors.

u/AGamerDraws · 2 pointsr/Art

It's a staedtler pigment liner. They come in packs from 0.05 to 0.8. I use them all the time, perfect for tiny details

u/mrsmorton · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

My cheapest is $6 tea and my most expensive is this ink set at a whopping $23. Haha. I don't typically spend a lot of myself so at $23 it's probably something I'll never convince myself that I need.

u/Novaeish · 2 pointsr/Zentangle

Thanks :D

It's made with a Tombow WS-BS Brush Pen Fudenosuke, soft tip.

I love that pen! And they have one with hard tip as well- that one is just as good but for smaller writing/ drawing.

u/IanGecko · 2 pointsr/ScenesFromAHat
u/terransdestroy · 2 pointsr/fountainpens

i got these two with a metro

hope i got the right stuff lol

u/Hooblar · 2 pointsr/EDC

Ever look into getting something more like a pigment pen? I admit, I'm a Pilot G2 guy myself so I am interested in seeing what recommendations there.

Something like the Staedtler or Sakura is what I am referring to. They have a bit more bleed-through if you are writing on standard A4 paper, but when I've had the pleasure of using those types of instruments I am never disappointed.

u/Ubuntaur · 1 pointr/dbz

If you really want to kick it up a notch, I recommend getting a nice brush pen. They are awesome for inking drawings.

u/Grouchiikitten · 1 pointr/mylittlepony

I use/have used a pretty wide variety of tools for inking, because I put a lot of emphasis on my inking/line work in general. Recently I've opted to simply using a fine tip sharpie pen and a black sharpie marker. This is more economical and easy to find. A slightly more pricey but good alternative I've used is a prismacolor black brush pen. Makes things like line weight (variation in line thickness) a breeze. There's actually a nice 8 pack I found on Amazon that includes the brush pen (as well as other handy pens) that's only $11 plus tax. which you can find here

u/Beginning_Gunpla · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I recommend either the thin panel lining markers in grey, black, and brown or a set of real touch markers that has those three colors

I panel lined with a set of panel lining markers for quite a while and only recently tried using real touch markers for panel lines and while the panel lining markers work pretty good I think I prefer real touch markers

The real touch markers are initially messier to apply but I think they clean up nicer just using like a qtip and make for some nice sharp looking lines

Probably not as good as a panel wash but I like them so far

Edit: here is a black panel lining marker

u/Manpig · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Here's the basic set that is associated to the classic Gundam colors. There are many more sets that you can buy if you are willing to search around for them.

u/3dbello · 1 pointr/HotWheels

Thanks! I use some paint pens! GSI Creos Gundam Marker Basic Set (6 Markers)

Those are the ones I use. Take some getting used to. So practice on some junk castings first 😆😂

u/starryharu · 1 pointr/bulletjournal

For fineliners, I would highly recommend Faber-Castell Pitt Artist Pens, in the thinnest tip size. But if you're going to get these, I HIGHLY recommend buying the pack with all 4 tip sizes and picking the one you like best, since a lot of people have different preferences. All the sizes will come in handy at some point for bullet journalling. They're about $10 on Amazon for the 4 pack.

If you're a student and you're planning on using your bujo to write down HW and/or you also wanna be a bit more cost efficient, I recommend gel pens. It gets really annoying to have to switch between a fineliner for writing HW and stuff in my journal and using a pen to take notes or do something for class (which is why I use a fineliner in the summer and a gel pen during the school year LOL). I recommend the Pentel Energel Gel Pen, in the 0.3 mm size. They dry super quick, so they're great to use for highlighting or if you're a leftie. And they look just as nice as a fineliner on your standard journal paper. Also great for taking notes in school because of the quick drying time. To save money, what I do is use an existing pen body I have (I have a zebra sarasa pen body) and just replace the existing ink with Pentel Energel refills. A pack of 12 refills is $11 on Amazon. I bought the refill pack a year and a half ago and still have 5 refills left. Or if you want the actual pen itself, it's $7 for a pack of 3.

Hope this helped!

u/CaptainButtons · 1 pointr/Gunpla

So i just got back from Asia and got a haul of HG and one RG and MG. I'm just getting back into Gunpla after a 10~year hiatus, and want to take a step up in to beginner level painting/panel lining/etc instead of just straight builds.

Some 1/144s I got that I want to start working on:
HGBF X-1 FullCloth (the one Lucas used in BFT)
HG Wing0
HGBF Wing Honoo? (Its a red.... Wing gundam?)
HD X Divider

I dont know the first thing about painting, and have watched some tutorials here and on youtube.

  1. Will the Gundam Colour markers be enough for beginner level of painting and cover most generic colours? I do have painting brushes/trays from my wife's painting tools.

    Gundam Marker basic set

    Gundam Marker Metallic

  2. I also brought a... thickish? panel line marker instead of a fine tip one. I think its GM301/302 or something. Lets just say i made a mess trying to panel line a SD (Gundam Base limited Musha Godmaru if that matters? ver Clear colour). Is this not used for panel lining? I bought this with recommendation from the staff at Tokyo Gundam Base (using Google Translate...)

  3. I randomly bought a Gloss spray from a shop in Akihabara? I believe that is branded Mr.Hobby? Should it be used because i paint/panel line? I've seen some say before but some also after? or should a gloss coat be done with paint instead of spray?

  4. I browsed around the web and see a "add-on" for HG V2 with the Wings of light effect, but can't seem to find it anywhere? Is there a way I can purchase this? I live in Canada Toronto if that matters.

    Thanks in advance for the random questions.
u/spencerkami · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Ohohoh, Get these tinted charcoal pencils! Derwent are my absolute favourite brand of drawing supplies and I think they're wonderful quality and just... perfect.

I have a few of the charcoal pencils and they're beautiful to work with. It's not the best picture, but this is something I drew with them. The colour is a lot more subtle, but I loved having charcoals other than black to work with. And it's nice when you don't want everything as bright as you get with pastels.

They also last a long time and a lot less messy then conventional charcoals! This made me happy as it left my fingers clean for blending. It's so much nicer then accidently smudging when you have your hands covered in black or whatever and it gets where you don't want it!

And finally, you don't like getting things for you, but this is something you can use to make other people happy. Make your Grandpa a thank you card using them (once you use some adhesive spray/hairspray), make birthday, easter and christmas cards for your girls. If they're anything like me, they'll hold on to them and treasure them. I have all the cards my mum had made me in a box under my bed.

u/judogirl · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

I think you should get yourself these so that you can take some time for yourself and do some drawing. You can take a break from being a wonderful parent and do something fun and creative just for you! I hope you have a wonderful birthday! :)

u/mondomondoman · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

This is my recommendation. Get that in addition to this. It's clear that you are an artist. You can use that to relax when you're stressed and even share and teach it with your children. Show them how to use their imaginations to create amazing things.

u/Sakatsu · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

CROCODILE DUNDEE!!!!! :D Now that's a knife!

Dude. Big Trouble In Little China on the big screen is awesomesauce. Resevoir Dogs is another good one of mine.

Baby Bunnies. Precious. Baby. Bunnies. Cuteness. Precious. Darlings. Sweethearts!

Pens to draw bunnies!

<3 <3 <3 <3 <3BUNNAHZZZZZ<3 <3 <3 <3 <3

u/duckinwonderland · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

cheesecake all day everyday

My favourite dessert are profiteroles mmmmmmmmmmm.

Item under $15

u/DScottyP · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Otherwise a black fine tip gundam maker would also work, such as this!

Granted the link I sent you is the US Amazon site, but I've used it on my own Petitgguys with nothing more than a bit of over drawing that is easily cleaned up with a cotton swab.

u/Skelthy · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Draw stuff! That's what I did when my internet was out for a whole week.

Tomorrow, 9AM.


u/Cywren · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Welcome to RAoA! It's so much fun here btw :)

  1. TV Show: Dead Like Me

    This show is simply put: far underrated. It was witty, clever, funny, sad, and frankly near perfect.

  2. Bathtub crayons for adult like finances and to-do lists in the shower....

    PS: Did you watch new Doctor Who episode on Sunday?! OMG!!!!
u/ab2g · 1 pointr/Art

For drawings like these, you should vary the thickness of your lines more. Using different values for your lines will help your drawings pop. My friend, who is an accomplished artist, does a lot of drawings like these, here is a link to a gallery of some of his drawings that are similar to yours. Jack Graves III . Be sure to click the thumbnails for a full size view.

You should seriously consider getting a pack of art pens. They will help you immensely with this, and they are worth the less than $20 investment. Here are three to browse on Amazon. Prismacolor, Faber-Castell, and Sakura Micron Pens.

u/Unhappily_Happy · 1 pointr/watercolor101

actually that was the brand of paper I got

my paints are Japanese

u/raspberriez247 · 1 pointr/BrushCalligraphy

Clarify please. Are you talking about the Pentel Aquash brushes? Or the Pentel Color brushes? Or neither?

u/ChartreuseCorvette · 1 pointr/learntodraw

Everyone else's advice is great, but once you're ready to move in to pens, I suggest a liner pen set like < this, if you can get it (~$11 USD; online and in art stores. Sakura's Pigma Micron pens are also good but a little less sturdy and pigmented in my experience). They're of different widths so you can explore line width (this piece looks to me like one width though), and they come in a sturdy case. Like all pens, be gentle on the tips, and they'll last a long time.

And besides lessons online, try thinking of your own drawing challenges. Once you learn how to put shapes together and show what you see on paper, it's a lot more fun to draw things you want to draw.

Best of luck and keep posting your progress!

u/cinderflight · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

I was watching this funny fake Prismacolor color pencil review, and found out about these eraser pencils ($~9.00) that would really help with my art/shading.

u/CaptainNaddy · 1 pointr/GiftIdeas

I've recently gotten into painting Japanese watercolor postcards on etegami paper. Etegami painting is supposed to be a relaxing experience where clumsy is good. Plus, as postcards they're fun to mail to friends and family.

(You can get the size you need)

u/TarmacFFS · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Depends on the size. A size '01' is .25mm which is fine for most of the smaller panel lines. There is a size '005' which is .2mm and if you can find one, it's more versatile than the 01.

My son started panel lining with markers and honestly, my set of Liners work just as well as the different brand name markers he has for much cheaper.

The new hotness though is using Tamiya wash and an extra fine nib in a fountain pen holder. Panel lining with a wash (premade or lacquer-based DIY wash) is a whole new world.

u/iovulca · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

I'm a pen and ink artist, and [these] ( are my weapon of choice, they are perfect. Also [these] ( are amazing for mixed media drawings on gesso, I could show you some things I've done with each if you're interested.

Do you have pictures of your stuff? I'm drawing something up for you now!

u/DrakonLitshed · 1 pointr/Gunpla

If you don't already have a proper tool kit like This you'll want to get one, when i first started i just used household tools like scissors and my kit's came out horrible with nub marks all over the place. The file or some sandpaper will work wonders to remove those. You'll also want a panel line marker like This they come in different colors so look around to get the one that matches the model your working on, adding panel lines alone greatly improves the look of the model. After you have the nub mark removal and panel lining down the sky is the limit you can dabble in custom painting or try your hand at kitbashing custom models. Research each thoroughly before trying them and expect a lot of errors at first if you try those.

u/captpickard · 1 pointr/drawing

So yeah, you can draw an eye at a time. That's great, because you took the time to notice what those gooey ocular nerves look like. Now you should buy a sketchbook and a few ink pens to aid your creativity. When I talk about effort, I mean time, dedication, focus, attention to detail.

Starting with a brush pen (fibeliner) will cause you all sorts of headaches. Although a novel way to make different lines and weights, I use it for large features or final touches.

I started with these great Steadler pens and this exact Sketchbook. The pens last me a long time, maybe 6 months of drawing almost every day.

I've drawn for a little more than two years, but have gotten exceptionally better because I bought the appropriate supplies.

u/SketchPadModPone · 1 pointr/dbz

Just from going on Amazon, these seem to be pretty good, based on reviews (plus you can choose the size). As for techniques, I unfortunately can't help you there as I don't use pastels myself. And who to draw next, I suggest Buu. He's one of my favorite villains.

Hope I was at least a little helpful!

u/mybrotherjoe · 1 pointr/drawing

Does she use just one pen thickness? She might like something like this which has different thicknesses for more detailed drawings.

You said she had graded pencils, maybe she would like graded pens too? (I haven't used these yet, so not sure on the quality)

Has she ever used a brush pen? I found them very interesting and you can create unique drawings with them.

If you prefer to get her some paper, look for something with at least 100gsm (this is the thickness of paper) I find 80gsm too thin for ink drawings.

Maybe also having a look for books on things she might like, like books on historic maps or tattoo designs. Reference books are brilliant for inspiration.

u/Buchanator · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I'm using the Black Gundam Marker. I did a lot of cleaning on the kit when I messed up but I just couldn't get it right. My main issue was that I made sure to do it lightly but it went on so thick, and I always have shaky hands so that never helped the situation.

EDIT: This is the marker I use

u/NickyKarma · 1 pointr/Watercolor

At this moment I'm using Kuretake 36 colour set.

u/Mishellereine · 1 pointr/fountainpens

For fine tuned brush pen work - with just water. I use this

Kuretake No. 8 Fountain Brush Pen (DP150-8B)

u/googoogiger · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Might this be something like you were talking about?

u/LearningHow2Draw · 1 pointr/ArtFundamentals

This pretty much. I started doing the lesson using a ballpoint pen and ran into the same problem regarding the indents being left on the paper. When I was doing ghosting lines it really started to become apparent that I should pick up a fineliner. Whenever I would use a ruler to make my first line it would leave an indent in the paper, so whenever I would do superimposing lines I was never sure if I was actually drawing my lines as straight as I was or if my hand was just trailing along the indentation left on the paper.

I'm currently using a Staedtler Pigment Liner that I bought from Amazon for $10.72, I'd recommend it.

u/AlastorCrow · 1 pointr/TokyoGhoul

I buy mine from Kinokuniya bookstore. You can get them from amazon, jetpens, ebay..pretty much everywhere. Not sure if the artist uses the same but it's at least similar, I think.

I think this is similar to the one that rokbound uses:

u/Ruff_Dog · 1 pointr/fountainpens

I just got a JinHao pen and it looks amazing. The reason I say looks is because I don't have ink for it. I've checked the sidebar and the sub wiki and such, but I had a question for y'all. What's your favorite non-blue and non-black ink? If I was going to go black I'd get this and blue would be this. But I want something.. different.

I'd like to stay around or under $20.

u/SugarSugarBee · 1 pointr/painting

Faber-Castell Pitt Artist Pens

They go easily over acrylic paint and make really smooth lines. Lots of painters who do black outlines use them because they are more exact. I use the "brush" one and the others are good for smaller projects or watercolors. I would not recommend using anything other than the brush-tip one for paintings because the tips are too hard and much gouge the paint or ruin your pen tip.

u/appleoatmeal · 1 pointr/bulletjournal

Heres a link to the pens. I bought it off of amazon. I use the superfine size normally. Faber-Castell PITT Artists' Pen Set Black.

u/HBreckel · 1 pointr/amiibo

If you just want to draw on them to add detail I recommend

they're designed for use on Gundam models and work great and have a very fine tip. I've used them on other figures before too and had no problems. If you get them just be sure not to touch the marker right away so it doesn't smudge.

They have a silver and a gold as well which work beautifully, I use them for everything with customs. There's other colors available but those have thicker tips so I wouldn't recommend them for fine details.

u/lizzythenerd · 1 pointr/Art

Not the same brand, but the set I own and enjoy. I like the included sepia pens

u/Loser_Bug · 1 pointr/JournalingIsArt

Honestly, most of my journals only have 5-10 sentences per page. I do a lot of collage, drawing, and abstract painting.

Here's what I suggest:

Buy some cheap liquid watercolors and some [sponges] ( You can do backgrounds on every page before you start. This helped me build the habit of nightly journaling, and removed the fear of "ruining" a page. Any parts that I didn't like I could collage over!

Start using your own photos as much as possible. One of the easiest ways to do an image transfer is to alter an image on the computer, then print it out on an ink jet printer. I use cheap-ass photo paper for this, while the photo is fresh. Spray it with water, then put face-down and rub it into the page. (A rubber brayer is nice, but a used gift card or other hard object would be fine.)

Did you know that you can buy bulk stickers from [Amazon???] (

I also suggest making a to-go bag. If you make your backgrounds at the beginning of the week, or before you start the journal, this makes it extra easy. Mine has:

  1. [paint markers] (
  2. a few of [these] ( and [these] (
  3. Ephemera (usually from my obnoxious amount of magazine subscriptions, my own drawings, and things I find)
  4. Glue sticks. Lots of folks here are interested in archival quality glue, but I just use Elmer's.

    I often use my journal to annotate from books (I used to do it INSIDE the books, but I found them difficult to read with any new clarity that way, and I'm trying to move to digital.) Since I mostly read self-help/improvement books, that made some great starting points for prompts.
u/addocd · 1 pointr/CasualConversation

A decent sketch pad is just better than any notebook or printer paper you probably have lying around.
My favorite pens are these
This particular pack of 4 has different tip sizes. I can use all 4 of them on one good piece. Not use them up, just use each one of them.

If you want to up your game, you can use any kind of graphite pencil (even a regular #2) and some tortillons for shading. It took me a while to brave shading but it was a game changer when I took the leap.

I just pinterest for "Zentangle Patterns" and stick them all on a board and go for it. You'll build off of them and use borders. Where you find empty space, you can just search your board for something that compliments or contrasts and fits your space.

I'm real proud of the ones I've done and get a lot of compliments. I guess it means a lot because I literally can't draw a car or a dog.

u/scotkav · 1 pointr/Gunpla

GM01 Black Fine Line

Gundam Marker GM02 Gray Fine Tip GUNPLA

Grey on white and light colours black on darker colours

u/Reapercore · 1 pointr/modelmakers

Nice! Can't wait to see it decaled.

You can either mask it off with Tamiya masking tape (they do curved tape too), paint very carefully with a thin brush, or use a Gundam lining marker pen to do it.

u/goodguydan · 1 pointr/Gunpla

A general pack like this, is a good starting point. If at some point you need a color outside of that set, try searching for an apporpriate color through hobbywave, or robot4less.

You can also use one of these for panel lining:

u/Sentient545 · 1 pointr/LearnJapanese


u/MjolnirPants · 1 pointr/mapmaking

Yeah; don't mess up!

I'm just kidding, I do have an actual tip. Since I don't know your experience level, it might be stuff you know already, sorry if so.

Use pens with different size tips (such as these ) to differentiate different elements, like the outline of the mountains vs the contours of the mountains, and the coastline vs rivers. Start by inking everything but the thinnest lines with a medium size pen, then go over the thicker lines with the thicker pen. This gives you some wiggle room for changing shapes slightly during the inking process, so you're not stuck with the first line you laid down. Then when all of that is done, give it about 10-20 minutes to fully dry and erase your pencil lines gently with a white eraser.

Then go in with your thinnest pen and do the finest lines.

u/ThisIsTheSameDog · 1 pointr/redditgetsdrawn

It's a Pentel brush pen, but it's their color brush pen (this one) instead of the pocket brush pen. The color brush has water-soluable ink, so after I'm done with the drawing I go back in with water to dissolve some of the lines and create the grays.

u/Ask_Seek_Knock · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Bath Tub Crayons Add On $3.97 from Things for Eli list

Wax Strips Add On $6.09 from her Health/beauty list.

u/Sarraaww · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Boom! Roasted.

Leroy Jethro Gibbs from NCIS is my pick. I could go on and on why I love him but my biggest reason is because he reminds me so much of my grandfather. Very tough exterior but once he allows you inside you see a completely different person.

"Rule #51, "Sometimes — You're wrong,"

My son is very big into drawing at the moment and these bath crayons would absolutely make his summer.

u/Daisuk · 1 pointr/drawing
u/FooTew · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

I'm actually really wild about this. Art is my thing and these call to me

u/Kalzic · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Hey everyone!

I'm as new as it gets. So, I made a shopping list after doing some research on everything that I think I need to start. I'll place the links to all the items in the lines below. Everything is on Amazon because... well why not?








More Markers!

*Krylon Matte Finish

Am I missing anything?

u/Skepticalj · 1 pointr/fountainpens

I haven't tried many inks, but the one I'm using now is Noodler's Bulletproof Black, and it's just excellent. In a Lamy Safari EF, it's my go-to pen for everyday use.

u/TheBlackFlame161 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

This is what I got. They shake like paint pens do, so I figured they were the same.

Thank you.

What is the purpose of the yellow, red and blue pens if you are just going to use the grey, black and brown ones?

u/flybylee · 1 pointr/Gunpla

So this was my first gunpla! I got impatient waiting for my gundam markers to come in (which are taking forever!) so i decided to try my hand at lining and using the decals. I wanted to put one i cared a little less about before i put together my SD Freedom Gundam. I was thinking about doing Freedom with some orange instead of blue (maybe), but wasn't sure how to do a metallic-ish orange without an airbrush :P

u/nanoymaster · 1 pointr/SketchDaily

yea me to so far... thinking about getting some
Staedtler 308 SB6P Pigment Liner Fineliner's though as they seem to be smaller (in nib width)

u/Sir-Meliodas · 1 pointr/blackmagicfuckery

This’ll get buried but I saw a review video for these pens/markers the other day. Here’s the link if anyone’s interested:

Oh, and here’s the link to purchase them that he provided:

u/SabioHombre · 1 pointr/fountainpens

I just bought Noodler's black and it's exactly what you want. The only small thing is that it's not a pure, darkness of space black.

u/hardkhor · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I bought the set of gundam markers in the link below. However, when I tried to apply the gray, the gray looked darker than the gray from the runner. I smeared it to give it a feather effect but it was still too dark to be the same color. Am I suppose to let it dry first and then it would be the same shade of gray?

Also, this shade of gray of course only works of the darker one. What color is the one from the legs? Can't be th white one.... can it?

Lastly, is there a marker for epyon's color scheme if I want to continue with this method for epyon?

u/TriliumGunpla · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Hi. 2 questions.

1). Are these kits all legit/genuine gunpla, or are there any knock offs/bootlegs?

2). If i panel line with this do I need a top coat? Ive heard it dries and ive heard it doesnt and needs top coat.


u/TofuTakahashi · 1 pointr/BuyItForLife

Oil based inks? No, it wouldn't flow as nicely and it wouldn't flow as nicely in the pen. However, there are some safe pigment inks that are "waterproof." I want to put a disclaimer here though, you should not use any ink not intended for fountain pens, ever. Specifically India ink. It's too heavily pigmented and will destroy the pen's feed (that's the piece that rests behind the nib and connects to the ink reserve).

There are a few notable waterproof inks out there, most of them are labeled as "taper proof" or "safety ink" intended for office use. After all, there still are a fair share of professionals who use fountain pens but need to have taper proof signatures (same goes for personal use and signing documents). Noodle's bullet proof ink is quite good, and inexpensive for a waterproof and tamper proof ink. Platinum also makes one as well. There are others out there, but they escape my mind. Only downside to the waterproof inks is they are not quite as "wet" as other inks., and they lack the verity of colours

u/Ardakilic · 1 pointr/fountainpens

Sorry, I should've been more specific. When I wrote Noodler's, I meant Noodlers Black, this one.

> if you find an ink too wet, you can add a tiny bit of water to make it drier. This works by diluting the amount of surfectants/other things that help the ink flow.

Well that's new for me. Thanks, that's awesome to know this! I'd think quite the opposite because all this wetness/dryness logic (such as add water = wetter).

u/-tartarus · -3 pointsr/Calligraphy

A Pentel Brush Pen is far more convenient. I have traditional and the brush pen and rarely bother to crush the ink.